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A SCIENTIFIC TREATISE on 
FOOD SUBSTANCES and their 
DIETETIC PROPERTIES, 



TOGETHER WITH 



A PRACTICAL EXPLANATION 

OF THE 



Principles of Healthful Cookery, 



AND A LARGE 
NUMBER O 



r ORIGINAL, PALATABLE, and 
WHOLESOME RECIPES. 



^7^ 



MRS. E. E. KELLOGG, A. M. 



Superintendent of the Sanitarium School of Cookery and of the Bay View Assembly School of 

Cookery, and Chairman of the World's Fair Committee on 

Food Supplies, for Michigan. 



PUBLISHED BY THE 

HEALTH PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
Battle Creek, Mich. 



\ 



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^ S^3^9 > 



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Copyrighted i892, by Mrs. E. E. Kellogg. 



PREFACE. 



''PHE interest in scientific cookery, particularly in cookery as related to health, has 
X manifestly increased in this country within the last decade, as is evidenced by 
the success which has attended every intelligent effort toward the establishment of 
schools for instruction in cookery in various parts of the United States. While those 
in charge of these schools have presented to their pupils excellent opportunities for 
the acquirement of dexterity in the preparation of toothsome and tempting viands, 
but little attention has been paid to the science of dietetics, or what might be termed 
the hygiene of cookery. 

A little less than ten years ago the Sanitarium at Battle Creek, Mich., established 
an experimental kitchen and a school of cookery under the supervision of Mrs. Dr. 
Kellogg, since which time, researches in the various lines of cookery and dietetics have 
been in constant progress in the experimental kitchen, and regular sessions of the 
school of cookery have been held. The school has gradually gained in popularity, 
and the demand for instruction has become so great that classes are in session during 
almost the entire year. 

During this time, Mrs. Kellogg has had constant oversight of the cuisine of both 
the Sanitarium and the Sanitarium Hospital, preparing bills of fare for the general 
and diet tables, and supplying constantly new methods and original recipes to meet 
the changing and growing demands of an institution numbering always from 500 to 
700 inmates. 

These large opportunities for observation, research, and experience, have gradu- 
ally developed a system of cookery, the leading features of which are so entirely 
novel and so much in advance of the methods heretofore in use, that it may be justly 
styled, A New System of Cookery. It is a singular and lamentable fact, the evil 
consequences of which are wide-spread, that the preparation of food, although 
involving both chemical and physical processes, has been less advanced by the 
results of modern researches and discoveries in chemistry and physics, than any 
(ither department of human industry. Iron-mining, glass-making, even the homely 
art of brick-making, and many of the operations of the farm and the dairy, 
have been advantageously modified by the results of the fruitful labors of modern 
scientific investigators. But the art of cookery is at least a century behind in the 
march of scientific progress. The mistress of the kitchen is still groping her way 
amid the uncertainties of mediseval methods, and daily bemoaning the sad results of 
the "rule of thumb." The chemistry of cookery is as little known to the average 
housewife as were the results of modern chemistry to the old alchemists ; and the 

[3] 



4 PREFACE. 

attempt to make wholesome, palatable, and nourishing food by the methods com- 
monly employed, is rarely more successful than that of those misguided alchemists in 
transmuting lead and copper into silver and gold. 

The new cookery brings order from out the confusion of mixtures and messes, 
often incongruous and incompatible, which surrounds the average cook, by the eluci- 
dation of the principles which govern the operations of the kitchen, with the same 
certainty with which the law of gravity rules the planets. 

Those who have made themselves familiar with Mrs. Kellogg's system of cook- 
ery, invariably express themselves as trebly astonished : first, at the simplicity of the 
methods employed ; secondly, at the marvelous results both as regards palatableness, 
wholesomeness, and attractiveness ; thirdly, that it had never occurred to them 
"to do this way before." 

This system does not consist simply of a rehash of what is found in every cook 
book, but of new methods, which are the result of the application of the scientific 
principles of chemistry and physics to the preparation of food in such a manner as 
to make it the most nourishing, the most digestible, and the most inviting to the eye 
and to the palate. 

Those who have tested the results of Mrs. Kellogg's system of cookery at the 
Sanitarium tables, or in their own homes through the instruction of her pupils, have 
been most enthusiastic in their expressions of satisfaction and commendation. Hun- 
dreds of original recipes which have appeared in her department in Good Health, 
" Science in the Household," have been copied into other journals, and are also quite 
largely represented in the pages of several cook books which have appeared within 
the last few years. 

The great success which attended the cooking school in connection with the Bay 
View Assembly (the Michigan Chautauqua), as well as the uniform success which has 
met the efforts of many of the graduates of the Sanitarium school of cookery who have 
undertaken to introduce the new system through the means of cooking classes in vari- 
ous parts of the United States, has created a demand for a fuller knowledge of the 
system. 

This volume is the outgrowth of the practical and experimental work, and the 
popular demand above referred to. Its preparation has occupied the entire leisure 
time of the author during the last five or six years. No pains or expense has been 
spared to render the work authoritative on all the questions upon which it treats, and 
in presenting it to the public, the publishers feel the utmost confidence that the work 
will meet the highest expectations of those who have waited impatiently for its ap- 
pearance during the months which have elapsed since its preparation was first 
announced. Publishers. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Foods 25 

Properties of food — Food elements — Uses of food elements — 
Proper combinations of food — Proper proportion of food 
elements — Condiments — Relation of condiments to in- 
temperance — Variety in food — Table topics. 

The Digestion of Foods 35 

The digestive organs — The digestion of a mouthful of bread — 
Salivary digestion — Stomach digestion — Intestinal diges- 
tion — Other uses of the digestive fluids — Absorption- — 
Liver digestion — Time required for digestion — Dr. Beau- 
mont's table made from experiments on Alexis St. Martin — 
Hygiene of digestion — Hasty eating — Drinking freely at 
meals — Eating between meals — Simplicity in diet — Eat- 
ing when tired — Eating too much — How much food is 
enough — Excess of certain food elements — Deficiency of 
certain food elements — Food combinations — Table topics. 

Cookery 45 

Evils of bad cookery — The principles of scientific cookery — 
Fuels — Making fires — Care of fires — Methods of cooking 

— Roasting — Broiling or grilling — Baking — The oven 
thermometer — Boiling — The boiling point of water — How 
to raise the boiling point of water — Action of hot and cold 
water upon foods — Steaming — Stewing — Frying — Evap- 
oration — Measuring — Comparative table of weights and 
measures — Mixing the material — Stirring — Beating — 
Kneading — Temperature — Cooking utensils — Porcelain 
ware — Granite ware — Galvanized iron ware — Tests for 
lead — Adulterated tin — Table topics. 

The Household Workshop 66 

Description of a convenient kitchen — The kitchen furniture — 
Cupboards — A convenient kitchen table — The kitchen sink 

— Drainpipes — Stoves and ranges — Oil and gas stoves — 

[5] 



6 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

The "Aladdin Cooker" — Kitchen utensils — The tin closet 

— The dish closet — The pantry — The storeroom — The 
refrigerator — The water supply — Test for pure water — Fil- 
ters — Cellars — Kitchen conveniences — The steam cooker 

— The vegetable press — The lemon drill — The handy waiter 

— The wall cabinet — The percolater holder — Kneading 
table — Dish-towel rack — Kitchen brushes — Vegetable brush 

— Table topics. 

The Grains, or Cereals, and their Preparation 76 

General properties of grains — Cooking of grains — The double 
boiler — Table showing amount of liquid, and time required 
for cooking different grains — Grains for breakfast — Grains 
an economical food — Wheat — Description of a grain of 
wheat — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Pearl wheat, 
Cracked wheat, Rolled wheat. Boiled wheat. Wheat with 
raisins, Wheat with fresh fruit. Molded wheat — Finer mill 
products of wheat — Recipes : Farina, Farina with fig sauce, 
Farina with fresh fruit, Molded farina, Graham grits, Gra- 
ham mush, Graham mush No. 2, Graham mush No. 3, 
Graham mush with dates. Plum porridge, Graham apple 
mush, Granola mush, Granola fruit mush, Granola peach 
mush, Bran jelly — -The oat, description of — Oatmeal — 
Brose — Budrum — Flummery — Preparation and cooking 
of oats — Recipes-: Oatmeal mush, Oatmeal fruit mush, 
Oatmeal blancmange. Oatmeal Blancmange No. 2, Jellied 
oatmeal, Mixed mush. Rolled oats. Oatmeal with apple, 
Oatmeal porridge — Barley, description of — Gofio — 
Scotch milled or pot barley — Pearl barley — Suggestions 
for cooking barley — Recipes: Baked barley. Pearl barley 
with raisins, Pearl barley with lemon sauce — Rice, descrip- 
tion of — Rice paddie — Preparation and cooking of rice 
— -Recipes: Steamed rice. Boiled rice. Rice with fig sauce. 
Orange rice. Rice with raisins, Rice with peaches, Browned 
rice — Rye, description of — Rye meal — Rye flour — Reci- 
pes : Rolled rye. Rye mush — Maize, or Indian corn, descrip- 
tion of — Suggestions for cooking corn — Recipes: Corn 
meal mush. Corn meal mush with fruit, Corn meal cubes. 
Browned mush. Samp, Cerealine flakes. Hulled corn. Coarse 
hominy, Fine hominy or grits. Popped corn — Macaroni, 
description of — Semolina — Spaghetti — Vermicelli — To 
select macaroni — To prepare and cook macaroni — Reci- 
pes : Homemade macaroni, Boiled macaroni, Macaroni 
with cream sauce. Macaroni with tomato sauce, Macaroni 
baked with granola, Eggs and macaroni — Table topics. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 7 

Breadstuffs and Bread-making log 

The origin of bread — Chestnut bread — Peanut bread — Bread- 
stuffs — Qualities necessary for good bread — Superiority of 
bread over meat — Graham flour — Wheat meal — Whole- 
wheat or entire wheat "flour — How to select flour — To 
keep flour — Deleterious adulterations of flour — Tests for 
adulterated flour — Chemistry of bread-making — Bread 
made light by fermentation — The process of fermentation 

— Fermentative agents — Yeast — Homemade yeasts — 
How to keep }east — Bitter yeast — Tests for yeast — Start- 
ing the bread — Proportion of materials needed — Utensils 

— When to set the sponge — Temperature for bread-making 

— How to set t^he sponge — Lightness of the bread — 
Kneading the dough — How to manipulate the dough in 
kneading — How many times shall bread be kneaded— Dry- 

jiess of the surface — Size of loaves — Proper temperature 
of the oven — How to test the heat of an oven — Care of 
bread after baking — Best method of keeping bread — Test 
of good fermented bread -^ Whole-wheat and Crraham 
breads — Toast — Steamed bread — Liquid yeast — Recipes : 
Raw potato yeast, Raw potato }east No. 2, Hop yeast, ■ 
Boiled potato yeast, Boiled potato yeast No. 2 — Fermented 
breads — j^f'(7/o- .• Milk bread with wlieat flour, \'ienna 
bread, Water bread, Fruit roll, Fruit loaf, Potato bread, 
Pulled bread, ^^'hole-wheat bread, Whole-wheat bread No. 2, 
Miss B's one-ri!^ing bread. Potato bread with whole-Avheat 
flour. Rye bread, (iraham bread, Ciraham bread No. 2, 
Graham bread No. 3, Raised biscuit, Rolls, Imperial rolls, 
French rolls, Crescents, Parker House rolls, Braids, Brown 
bread, Date bread, Fruit loaf with Graham and whole- 
wheat flour. Raised corn bread. Corn cake, Oatmeal 
bread, Milk yeast bread, Graham salt rising bread — 
Unfermented breads — Passover cakes — Tortillas — Evils 
of chemical bread raising — Rochelle salts in baking pow- 
ders — General directions — Gem irons — Perforated sheet- 
iron pan for rolls — L^nfermented batter breads — Un- 
fermented dough breads — Recipes : Whole-wheat puffs. 
Whole-wheat puffs No. 2, Whole-wheat puffs No. 3, Graham 
puffs, Graham puffs No. 2, Currant puffs, Graham gems, 
Crusts, Rye puffs. Rye puffs No. 2, Rye gems. Blueberry 
gems. Hominy gems, Sally Lunn gems. Corn puffs, Corn 
puffs No. 2, Corn puffs No 3, Corn puffs No. 4, Corn 
dodgers, Corn dodgers No. 2, Cream corn cakes, Hoe 
cakes. Oatmeal gems. Snow gems. Pop overs, Granola 
gems. Bean gems, Breakfast rolls. Sticks, Cream Graham 



O TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

rolls, Corn mush rolls, Fruit rolls. Cream mush rolls. 
Beaten biscuit, Cream crisps, Cream crisps No. 2, Gra- 
ham crisps. Oatmeal crisps, Graham crackers, Fruit crackers 
— Table topics. 

Fruits 164 

Chemical constituents of — Value as nutrients — Structure of 
fruits — The jelly-producing principle — Digestibility of 
fruits — Unripe fruits — Table of fruit analysis — Ripe fruit 
and digestive disorders — Over-ripe and decayed fruits — 
Dangerous bacteria on unwashed fruit — Free use of fruit 
lessens desire for alcoholic stimulants — Beneficial use of 
fruits in disease — Apples — The pear — The quince — 
The peach — The plum — The prune — The apricot — The 
cherry — The olive ; its cultivation and preservation — The 
date, description and uses of — The orange — The lemon 

— The sweet lemon or bergamot — The citron — The lime 
^ The grape-fruit— The pomegranate, its antiquity — The 
grape — Zante currants — The gooseberry — The currant — 
The whortleberry — The blueberry — The cranberry — The 
strawberry — The raspberry — The blackberry — The mul- 
berry — The melon — The fig, its antiquity and cultivation 

— The banana — Banana meal — The pineapple — Fresh 
fruit for the table — Selection of fruit for the table — Direc- 
tions for serving fruits — Keeping fresh fruit — Directions 
for packing, handling, and keeping fruits — Recipes : To 
keep grapes, To keep lemons, oranges, and cranberries — 
Cooked fruit — General suggestions for 'cooking fruit — 
Recipes : Baked apples, Citron apples, Lemon apples. Baked 
pears, Baked quince. Pippins and quince. Baked apple sauce. 
Baked apple sauce No. 2, Apples stewed whole, Steamed ap- 
ples, Compote of apples, Apple compote No. 2, Stewed pears, 
Stewed apple sauce, Boiled apples with syrup. Stewed apples, 
Stewed crab apples, Sweet apple sauce with condensed apple 
juice. Apples with raisins. Apples with apricots, Peaches, 
pears, cherries, berries, and other small fruits. Baked apples. 
Baked pears. Baked peaches, Cranberries, Cranberries with 
raisins, Cranberries with sweet apples, Oranges and apples. 
Stewed raisins, Dried apples, Dried apples with other dried 
fruit, Dried apricots and peaches, Evaporated peach sauce, 
Dried pears. Small fruits, Prunes, Prune marmalade — Can- 
ning fruit — Selection of cans — -How to test and sterilize 
cans — Selection of fruit — Directions for preparing fruit — 
Cooking fruit for canning — Storing of canned fruit — Mold 
oh canned fruit — Opening of canned fruit — Rules for 
selecting canned fruit — Fruit jellies — Fruit juices, value 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9 

of — How to prepare fruit juices — Recipes: Grape juice 
or unfermented wine, Grape juice No. 2, Another method, 
Fruit syrup, Currant syrup, Orange syrup, Lemon syrup, 
Lemon syrup No 2, Blackberry syrup. Fruit ices — Nuts 

— Composition and nutritive value of — The almond — Al- 
mond bread — The Brazil nut — The cocoanut, its uses in 
tropical countries — The chestnut — Chestnut flour — The 
acorn — The hazel nut — The filbert — The cobnut — The 
walnut — The butternut — The hickory nut — The pecan — 
The peanut or ground nut — Recipes : To blanch almonds, 
Boiled chestnuts. Mashed chestnuts, Baked chestnuts. To 
keep nuts fresh — Table topics. 

The Legumes 217 

(Composition and nutritive value — Legumes as a substitute for 
animal food — Legumin, or vegetable casein — Chinese 
cheese — Legumes the "pulse" of Scripture — Diet of 
the pyramii builders — Digestibility of legumes — A four- 
teenth century recipe — The green legumes — Suggestions 
for cooking — Slow cooking preferable — -Soaking the dry 
seeds — Effects of hard water upon the legumes — Tempera- 
ture of water for cooking — Amount of water required — 
Addition of salt to legumes — Peas, description of — -Buying 
votes with peas — A commemorative dinner — Peas bain- 
ocks — Peas sausages — Peas pudding — Time required for 
cooking — Recipes : Stewed split peas, Peas puree. Mashed 
peas. Peas cakes. Dried green peas — Beans, description of 

— Mention of beans in Scripture — Beans in mythology — 
Time required for digestion — Method of cooking — Ex- 
periment of an English cook — Parboiling beans — Time 
required to cook — Recipes: Baked beans, Boiled beans. 
Beans boiled in a bag. Scalloped beans, Stewed beans, 
Mashed beans. Stewed Lima beans, Succotash, Pulp suc- 
cotash — Lentils, description of — Use of lentils by the 
ancients — Lentil meal — Preparation for cooking — Recipes : 
Lentil puree, Lentils mashed with beans, Lentil gravy with 
rice — Table topics. 

Vegetables 228 

Composition and nutritive value of vegetables — Exclusive diet 
of vegetables not desirable — To select vegetables — - Poison 
in potato sprouts — Stale vegetables a cause of illness — 
Keeping vegetables — To freshen withered vegetables-^ 
Storing winter vegetables — Preparation and cooking — To 
clean vegetables for cooking — Methods of cooking — 



lO TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

— -The Irish potato, description of — The chemistr}^ of 
cooking — Digestibility of the potato — New potatoes — 
Preparation and cooking — Recipes : Potatoes boiled in 
"jackets," Boiled potatoes without skins, Steamed potatoes. 
Roasted potatoes, Baked potatoes, Stuffed potatoes, Stuffed 
potatoes No. 2, Mashed potatoes. New potatoes. Cracked 
potatoes. Creamed potatoes, Scalloped potatoes. Stewed 
potatoes, Potatoes stewed with celery. Potato snow balls, 
Potato cakes, Potato cakes with egg. Potato puffs, Browned 
potatoes, Ornamental potatoes. Broiled potatoes. Warmed- 
over potatoes. Vegetable hash — The sweet potato, descrip- 
tion of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes : Baked sweet 
potatoes. Baked sweet potatoes No. 2, Boiled sweet pota- 
toes. Steamed sweet potatoes. Browned sweet potatoes, 
Mashed sweet potatoes, Potato hash. Roasted sweet pota- 
toes—Turnips, description of — Preparation and cooking 

— Recipes: Boiled turnips. Baked turnips. Creamed tur- 
nips, Chopped turnips, Mashed turnips. Scalloped turnips, 
Steamed turnips, Stewed turnips. Turnips in juice, Turnips 
with cream sauce — Parsnips, description of — Preparation 
and cooking — Recipes : Baked parsnips. Baked parsnips No. 
2, Boiled parsnips, Browned parsnips, Creamed parsnips. 
Mashed parsnips. Parsnips with cream sauce, Parsnips with 
egg sauce. Parsnips with potatoes. Stewed parsnips. Stewed 
parsnips with celery — Carrots, description of — Preparation 
and cooking — Recipes : Boiled carrots. Carrots with egg 
sauce. Stewed carrots — ^ Beets, description of — Preparation 
and. cooking — Recipes : Baked beets, Baked beets No. 2, 
Beets and potatoes. Beet hash. Beet greens. Beet salad or 
chopped beets. Beet salad No 2, Boiled beets. Stewed beets 

— Cabbage, description of — Preparation and cooking — 
Recipes : Baked cabbage, Boiled cabbage. Cabbage and to- 
matoes, Cabbage and celery. Cabbage hash. Chopped cab- 
bage or cabbage salad. Mashed cabbage, Stewed cabbage ^ — 
Cauliflower and Broccoli, description of — Preparation and 
cooking — Recipes : Boiled cauliflower, Browned cauliflower, 
Cauliflower with tgg sauce. With tomato sauce, Stewed cau- 
liflower, Scallope,d cauliflower — Spinach, description of — 
Preparation and cooking — Celery — To keep celery fresh 

— Recipes: Celery salad, Stewed celery, Stewed celery No. 
2, Celery with tomato sauce. Celery and potato hash ■ — 
Asparagus, description of — Preparation and cooking — 
Recipes : Asparagus and peas. Asparagus points, Asparagus 
on toast. Asparagus with cream sauce, Asparagus with egg 
sauce. Stewed asparagus — Sea-kale, description of — Let- 
tuce and radish, description of — Winter squash — Prepara- 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. II 

tion and cooking — Time required for cooking — Recipes: 
Baked squash, Steamed squash — The pumpkin, descrip- 
tion of — 'Recipes : Baked pumpkin, Stewed pumpkin. Dried 
pumpkin — Tomato, description of — Preparation and cook- 
ing — Recipes: Baked tomatoes, Baked tomatoes No. 2, 
Scalloped tomatoes. Stewed corn anei tomatoes, Tomato 
gravy, Tomato salad. Tomato salad No. 2, Broiled toma- 
toes, Tomato pudding, Stewed tomatoes. Tomato with okra 

— Egg plant, description of — Nutritive value — Recipes : 
Scalloped egg plant. Baked egg plant — Cucumber, descrip- 
tion of — Digestibility — Preparation and cooking — Salsify 
or vegetable oyster, description of — Preparation and cook- 
ing — Recipes: Scalloped vegetable oysters, Stewed vege- 
table oysters — Cxreen corn, peas, and beans, description of 

— General suggestions for selecting and cooking — Recipes 
for corn : Baked corn, Baked corn No. 2, Boiled green 
corn, Stewed corn pulp, Corn cakes, Corn i)udding. Roasted 
green corn. Stewed green corn, Summer succotash. Dried 
corn — Recipe for peas : Stewed peas — Recipes for beans : 
Lima beans, Shelled beans. String beans — Canning vege- 
tables — Recipes : Canned corn and tomatoes. Canned peas, 
Canned tomatoes. Canned tomatoes No. 2, String beans, 
Canned pumpkin and squash — Table topics. 

Soups 271 

\'alue of soup as an article of diet — Superiority of soups made 
from grain and legumes — Economical value of such soup.s 
Digestibility of soups — Cooking of material for soups — 
Use of a colander in preparing soups — Quantity of salt re- 
quired — -Flavoring soups — Seasoning of soup — Chinese 
soup strainer — Whole grains, macaroni, shredded vegeta- 
bles, etc., for soups — Milk in the preparation of soups — 
Consistency of soups — Preparation of soups from left-over 
fragments — Croutons — Recipes: Asparagus soup. Baked 
bean soup, Bean and corn soup. Bean and hominy soup, 
Bean and potato soup. Bean and tomato soup. Black bean 
soup. Black bean soup No. 2, Bran stock, Brown soup. 
Canned green pea soup, Canned corn soup, Carrot soup, 
Celery soup. Chestnut soup. Combination soup, Combina- 
tion soup No. 2, Another, Another, Cream pea soup, Cream 
barley soup, Green corn soup. Green pea soup, Green bean 
soup, Kornlet soup, Kornlet and tomato soup, Lentil soup, 
Lentil and parsnip soup, Lima bean soup, Macaroni soup. 
Oatmeal soup. Parsnip soup, Parsnip soup No. 2, Pea and 
tomato soup, Plain rice soup, Potato and rice soup, Potato 



12 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

soup, Potato and vermicelli soup, Sago and potato soup, 
Scotch broth, Split pea soup, Sweet potato soup, Swiss 
potato soup, Vermicelli soup No. 2, White celery soup — 
Table topics. 

Breakfast Dishes 287 

Importance of a good breakfast — Requirements for a good 
breakfast — Pernicious custom of using fried and indigesti- 
ble foods for breakfast — Use of salted foods an auxiliary to 
the drink habit — The ideal breakfast — Use .of fruit for 
breakfast — Grains for breakfast — An appetizing dish — 
Preparation of zwieback — Preparation of toast — Recipes: 
Apple toast, Apricot toast. Asparagus toast. Banana toast. 
Berry toast. Berry toast No. 2, Celery toast. Cream toast. 
Cream toast with poached egg. Cherry toast. Gravy toast. 
Dry toast with hot cream, Grape toast, Lentil toast. Prune 
toast. Peach toast, Snowflake toast. Tomato toast, Vege- 
table oyster toast — Miscellaneous breakfast dishes : Brewis, 
Blackberry mush. Dry granola. Frumenty, Macaroni with 
raisins. Macaroni with kornlet. Peach mush. Rice with 
lemon — Table topics. 

Desserts . ••" 296 

Appropriate and healthful desserts — Objections to the use of 
desserts — The simplest dessert — General suggestions — Im- 
portance of good material — Preparation of dried fruit for 
dessert — ■ Molded desserts — Suggestions for flavoring : To 
prepare almond paste, Cocoanut flavor. Orange and lemon 
flavor. To color sugar. Fruit desserts — Recipes : Apple des- 
sert, Apple meringue dessert, Apple rose cream, Apple snow. 
Baked apples with cream. Baked sweet apple dessert. Ba- 
nanas in syrup. Baked bananas. Fresh fruit compote. Grape 
apples. Peach cream. Prune dessert — Desserts made of 
fruit with grains, bread, etc. — Recipes : Apple sandwich, 
Apple sandwich No. 2, Baked apple pudding. Barley fruit 
pudding. Barley fig pudding, Blackberry cornstarch pudding, 
Cocoanut, and cornstarch blancmange. Cornstarch blanc- 
mange. Cornstarch with raisins. Cornstarch with apples. 
Cornstarch fruit mold. Cornstarch fruit mold No. 2, Cracked 
wheat pudding, Cracked wheat pudding No. 2, Farina blanc- 
mange, Farina fruit mold. Fruit pudding. Jam pudding. 
Plain fruit pudding or Brown Betty, Prune pudding. Rice 
meringue. Rice snowball. Rice fruit dessert. Rice dumpling, 
Rice cream pudding, Rice pudding with raisins. Red rice 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 1 3 

mold, Rice and fruit dessert, Rice and tapioca pudding, 
Rice flour mold. Rice and stewed apple dessert, Rice and 
strawberry dessert, Stewed fruit pudding, Strawberry minute 
pudding. Sweet apple pudding, Whortleberry pudding — Des- 
serts with tapioca, sago, manioca, and sea iwoss — Recipes : 
Apple tapioca, Apple tapioca No. 2, Banana dessert. Black- 
berry tapioca. Cherry pudding, Fruit tapioca. Molded tapi- 
oca with fruit. Pineapple tapioca. Prune and tapioca pudding, 
Tapioca and fig pudding. Peach tapioca. Tapioca jelly, 
Apple sago pudding. Red sago mold. Sago fruit pudding. 
Sago pudding, Manioca with fruit, Raspberry manioca 
mold. Sea moss blancmange — Desserts made with gela- 
tine — Gelatine an excellent culture medium — Dangers in 
the use of gelatine — Quantity to be used — Recipes: Ap- 
ples in jelly, Apple shape. Banana dessert, Clear dessert, 
Fruit foam dessert. Fruit shape, (ielatine custard. Layer 
pudding, Lemon jelly, Jelly with fruit. Orange dessert, 
Oranges in jelly, Orange jelly, Snow pudding — Desserts 
with crusts — Recipes: Apple tart, Gooseberry tart, Cherry 
tart. Strawberry and other fruit shortcakes, Banana short- 
cake, Lemon shortcake. Berry shortcake with prepared 
cream. Cream, Raised pie. Baked apple loaf, Custard pud- 
dings — Importance of slow cooking — Best utensils for 
cooking — Custard desserts in cups — To stir beaten eggs 
into heated milk — To flavor custards and custard pud- 
dings — Recipes : Apple custard, Apple custard No. 2, 
Apple custard No. 3, Apple cornstarch custard, Apple and 
bread custard. Almond cornstarch pudding. Almond cream, 
Apple charlotte. Banana custard. Boiled custard, Boiled 
custard bread pudding. Bread and fruit custard. Bread 
custard pudding. Bread and fig pudding, Bread and apricot 
pudding. Caramel custard, Carrot pudding, Cocoanut corn- 
starch pudding, Cocoanut custard, Cocoanut rice custard. 
Corn meal pudding. Corn meal pudding No. 2, Corn meal 
and fig pudding. Cornstarch meringue. Cracked wheat pud- 
ding. Cup custard, Farina custard, Farina pudding, Floating 
island, Fruit custard, Graham grits pudding. Ground rice 
pudding, Lemon pudding. Lemon cornstarch pudding, 
Lemon cornstarch pudding No. 2, Macaroni pudding. 
Molded rice or snowballs. Orange float. Orange custard, 
Orange pudding, Peach meringue, Picnic jnidding. Plain 
cornstarch pudding, Plain custard, Prune pudding. Prune 
whip, Rice apple custard pudding, Rice custard pudding. 
Rice snow. Rice snow with jelly. Rice with eggs. Snow pud- 
ding, Steamed custard. Tapioca custard. Tapioca pudding. 
Vermicelli pudding, White custard. White custard No. 2 — 



14 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Steamed pudding — Precautions to be observed in steaming 
puddings — Recipes : Batter pudding, Bread and fruit cus- 
tard, Date pudding, Rice balls, Steamed bread custard, 
Steamed fig pudding — Pastry and cake — Deleterious effects 
from the use of — Reasons for indigestibility — General di- 
rections for making pies — Recipes : Paste for pies, Corn 
meal crust, Granola crust, Paste for tart shells, Cream filling, 
Grape tart. Lemon filling, Tapioca filling, Apple custard pie, 
Banana pie. Bread pie. Carrot pie, Cocoanut pie, Cocoanut 
pie No. 2, Cream pie, Cranberry pie. Dried apple pie. Dried 
apple pie with raisins, Dried apricot pie. Farina pie. Fruit 
pie. Grape jelly pie. Jelly custard pie. Lemon pie, Lemon 
meringue custard. One crust peach pie, Orange pie, Peach 
custard pie. Prune pie. Pumpkin pie. Pumpkin pie No. 2, 
Pumpkin pie without eggs. Simple custard pie. Squash pie, 
Squash pie without eggs. Sweet apple custard pie. Sweet po- 
tato pie — Cake — General suggestions for preparation of — 
Cake made light Avith yeast — Cake made light with air — 
Recipes : Apple cake, Cocoanut custard cake. Cream cake, 
Delicate cup cake. Fig layer cake. Fruit jelly cake, Gold and 
silver cake. Icing for cakes. Orange cake, Fruit cake. Loaf 
cake, Pineapple cake. Plain buns. Sponge cake, Sugar crisps, 
Variety cake — Table topics. 

Gravies and Sauces 350 

Importance of proper preparation — Accuracy of measurement 
— Proportion of material necessary — The double boiler for 
cooking gravies — Flavoring of gravies for vegetables — 
Gravies and sauces for vegetables — Recipes: Brown sauce, 
Cream and white sauce, _Celery sauce, PZgg sauce, Pease 
gravy, Tomato gravy. Tomato cream gravy — Sauces for 
desserts and puddings — Recipes : Almond sauce. Caramel 
sauce, Cocoanut sauce, Cream sauce. Cranberry pudding 
sauce, Custard sauce. Egg sauce, Egg sauce No. 2, Foamy 
sauce. Fruit cream. Fruit sauce, Fruit sauce No. 2, Lemon 
pudding sauce. Mock cream, Molasses sauce, Orange sauce, 
Peach sauce, Plain pudding sauce. Red sauce, Rose cream 
Sago sauce. Whipped cream sauce — Table topics. 

Beverages 357 

Large quantities of fluid prejudicial to digestion — Wholesome 
beverages — The cup that cheers but not inebriates — Harm- 
ful substances contained in tea — Theine — Tannin — Use of 
tea a cause of sleeplessness and nervous disorders — Tea a 
sliniulant — Tea not a food - — -Coffee, cocoa, and chocolate 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. I 5 

— Caffein — Adulteration of tea and coffee — Substitutes 
for tea and coffee — Recipes : Beet coffee, Caramel coffee, 
CaraTiel coffee No. 2, Caramel coffee No. 3, Caramel coffee 
No. 4, Mrs. T's caramel coffee, Parched grain coffee, 
Wheat, oats, and barley coffee — Recipes for cold beverages : 
Blackberry beverage. Fruit beverage. Fruit beverage No. 2, 
Fruit cordial. Grape beverage, Lemonade, Mixed lemonade, 
Oatmeal drink. Orangeade, Pineapple beverage, Pineapple 
lemonade, Pink lemonade. Sherbet, Tisane — Table topics. 

Milk, Cream, and Butter 364 

Milk, chemical composition of — Proportion of food elements 

— Microscopic examination of milk — Casein — Casein 
coagulated by the introduction of acid — Spontaneous co- 
agulation or souring of milk — Adulteration of milk — 
Quality of milk influenced by the food of the animal — 
Diseased milk — Kinds of milk to be avoided — Distribution 
of germs by milk — Proper utensils for keeping milk — 
Where to keep milk — Dr. Dougall's experiments on the 
absorbent properties of milk — Washing of milk dishes — 
Treatment of milk for cream rising — Temperature at 
which cream rises best — Importance of sterilizing milk — 
To sterilize milk for immediate use — To sterilize milk to 
keep — Condensed milk — Cream, composition of — 
Changes produced by churning — Skimmed milk, compo- 
sition of — Buttermilk, composition of — Digestibility of 
cream — Sterilized cream — Care of milk for producing 
cream — Homemade creamery — Butter, the composition- 
of — Rancid butter — Tests of good butter — Flavor and 
color of butter — Artificial butter — Test for oleomargarine 

— Butter in ancient times — Butter making — Best condi- 
tions fur the rising of cream — Upon what the keeping 
qualities of butter depend — (Cheese — Tyrotoxicon — 
Recipes : Hot milk, Devonshire or clotted cream. Cottage 
cheese. Cottage cheese froui buttermilk, Cottage cheese from 
sour milk, French butter, Shaken milk, Fmulsified butter — 
Table topics. 

Eggs 380 

Eggs a concentrated food — Composition of the egg — How to 
choose eggs — Quality of eggs varied by the food of the 
fowl — Stale eggs — Test for eggs — How to keep eggs — 
To beat eggs — Albumen susceptible to temperature — Left- 
over eggs — Recipes : Eggs in shell, Eggs in sunshine, Eggs 
poached in tomatoes. Eggs in cream. Poached or dropped 
eggs, Poached eggs with cream sauce, Quickly prepared 



l6 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

eggs, Scrambled eggs, Steamed eggs, Whirled eggs — 
Omelets — Recipes : Plain omelets, Foam omelets. Fancy 
omelets, Soft omelets — Table topics. 

Meats 38g 

Character of meat — Nutritive value — Excrementitious elements 

— Flesh food a stimulant — Diseased meats — Jewish cus- 
toms in regard to meat — Trichina — Tapeworm and other 
parasites — Meat unnecessary for health — The excessive use 
of meat tending to develop the animal propensities — 
Objections to its use — -Pork — Calves' brains and other vis- 
cera — Meat pies — Scallops — Pates — Comparative nutri- 
tious value — Variation and flavor — Composition and 
digestibility — Selection of meats — Preservation of meats 

— Jerked beef — Pemmican — Preparation and cooking of 
meat — Frozen beef — Best methods of cooking — Boiling — 
Stewing — Steaming — Roasting — Broiling — Beef, econ- 
omy and adaptability in selection of — Recipes: Broiled 
beef. Cold meat stew, Pan-broiled steak, Pan-broiled steak 
No. 2, Roast beef, Smothered beef, Vegetables with stewed 
beef, Stewed beef — Mutton — Cause of strong flavor of 

— Recipes: Boiled leg of mutton. Broiled chops, Pot roast 
lamb, Roast mutton. Stewed mutton. Stewed mutton chop, 
Stewed mutton chop No. 2, Veal and lamb — Poultry and game 
To truss a fowl or bird — To stuff a fowl or bird — Recipes : 
Birds baked in sweety potatoes, Boiled fowl, Broiled birds, 
Broiled fowl, Corn and chicken. Pigeons, quails, and par- 
tridges. Roast chicken, Roast turkey. Smothered chicken, 
Steamed chicken. Stewed chicken — Fish, two classes of 

— Difference in nutritive value — Flavor and wholesomeness 

— Poison fish — Parasites in fish — Fish as a brain food — 
Salted fish — Shellfish — Oysters — Clams — Lobsters • — 
Crabs — Not possessed of high nutritive value — Natural 
scavengers — Poisonous mussels — How to select and pre- 
pare fish — Frozen fish — Methods of cooking — Recipes: 
Baked fish. Broiled fish — Meat soup — Preparation of stock 

— Selection of material for stock — Quantity of materials 
needed — Uses of scraps — Extracting the juice — Tempera- 
ture of the water to be used — Correct proportion of water — 
Time required for cooking — Straining the stock — To re- 
move the fat — Simple stock or broth — Compound stock or 
double broth — To clarify soup stock — Recipes : Asparagus 
soup. Barley, rice, sago, or tapioca soup. Caramel for color- 
ing soup brown, Juilienne soup, Tomato soup. White soup, 
Vermicelli or macaroni soup, Puree with chicken. Tapioca 
cream soup — Table Topics. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 1 7 

Food for the Sick 418 

Need of care in the preparation of food fur the sick — What 
constitutes proper food for the sick — Knowledge of 
dietetics an important factor in the education of every 
woman — No special dishes for all cases — Hot buttered 
toast and rich jellies objectionable — The simplest food the 
best — Scrupulous neatness in serving important- — -To coax 
a capricious appetite — A "purple" dinner — A "yellow" 
dinner — To facilitate the serving of hot foods — Cooking 
utensils — Gruel — Long-continued cooking needed — Use 
of the double boiler in the cooking of gruels — Gruel 
strainer — Recipes : Arrowroot gruel, Barley gruel, Egg 
gruel, Egg gruel No. 2, Farina gruel, Flour gruel, Gluten 
gruel. Gluten gruel No. 2, Gluten cream, Gluten meal gruel, 
Graham gruel, Graham grits gruel, Gruel of prepared flour, 
Indian meal gruel. Lemon oatmeal gruel. Milk oatmeal gruel, 
Milk porridge, Oatmeal gruel, Oatmeal gruel No. 2, Oat- 
meal gruel No. 3, Peptonized gluten gruel, Raisin gruel — 
Rice water — Preparations of milk — Milk diet — Advan- 
tages of — Quantity of milk needed — Digestibility of milk 

— Recipes : Alburaenized milk. Hot milk, Junket, or curded 
milk. Koumiss, Milk and lime water. Peptonized milk for 
infants — Beef tea, broths, etc. — Nutritive value — Testi- 
mony of Dr. Austin Flint — Recipes : Beef extract. Beef 
juice. Beef tea. Beef tea and eggs. Beef broth and oatmeal. 
Bottled beef tea, Chicken broth. Mutton broth, Vegetable 
broth. Vegetable broth No. 2, Mixed vegetable broth — Rec- 
ipes for Panada : Broth panada. Chicken panada. Egg pa- 
nada, Milk panada, Raisin panada — Grains for the sick — 
Recipes : Gluten mush, Tomato gluten. Tomato gluten 
No. 2 — Meats for the sick — Importance of simple prepa- 
ration — Recipes: Broiled steak, Chicken, Chicken jelly. 
Minced chicken. Mutton chop. Minced steak. Scraped 
steak — Eggs for the sick — Recipes: Floated egg. Gluten 
meal custard. Gluten custard. Steamed eggs. Soft custard, 
Raw egg, White of egg, White of egg and milk — Refresh- 
ing drinks and delicacies for the sick — Nature's delicacies 

— How to serve — Fruit juices — Recipes: Acorn coffee. 
Almond milk, Apple beverage, Apple beverage No. 2, Apple 
toast water. Baked milk. Barley lemonade. Barley and fruit 
drinks. Barley milk. Cranberry drink, Currantade, Crust cof- 
fee, Eggnog, Eggnog No. 2, Eggnog No. 3, Egg lemonade, 
Flaxseed coffee. Gum Arabic water. Hot Avater, Hot lemon- 
ade, Irish moss lemonade, Orangeade, Plain lemonade, Slip- 
pery elm tea, Toast water, Tamarind water — Bread — Rrri- 



l8 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

pes : Diabetic biscuit, Diabetic biscuit No. 2, Gluten meal 
gems — Jellies and other desserts for the sick — Recipes: 
Arrowroot jelh', Arrowroot blancmange, Currant jelly, Ice- 
land moss jelly, Iceland moss blancmange, Orange whey. 
White custard — Table topics. 

Food for the Aged and the Very Young 439 

Requisites of food for the aged — Stimulating diet not necessary 

— Flesh food unsuitable — Bill of fare — Quantity of food 
for the aged — Heavy meals a tax upon digestion — Cornaro's 
testimony — Diet for the young — Causes of mortality 
among young children — Best artificial food — Use of steril- 
ized milk — Difference between cows' milk and human milk 

— Common method of preparing cows' milk — Artificial 
human milk — Artificial human milk No. 2 — Artificial 
human milk No. 3 — Peptonized milk — Mucilaginous food 
excellent in gastro-enteritis — Preparation of food for in- 
fants — Time required for digestion of artificial food — 
Quantity of food for infants — Rules for finding the amount 
of food needed — Table for the feeding of infants — In- 
terval between feeding — Intervals for feeding at different 
ages — Manner of feeding artificial foods — Danger from 
unclean utensils — Diet of older children — An abundance 
of nitrogenous material important — Flesh food unneces- 
sary — Experiments of Dr. Camman — Testimony of Dr. 
Clouston — Candy and similar sweets — Eating between 
meals — Education of the appetite — Inherited appetites 
and tendencies — Table topics. 

Fragments and Left-over Foods 452 

Preserving and utilizing the left-over fragments — Precautions to 
* be observed — Uses of stale bread — To insure perfect pres- 
ervation of fragments — Preparation of zwieback and crou- 
tons — Left-over grains — Left-over vegetables — Left-over 
meats — Left-over milk — Table topics. 

The Art of Dining 456 

Pleasant accessories essential — The dining room — Neatness an 
essential — Care of the dining room — Furnishings of the 
dining room — Table talk — A pleasant custom — Table 
manners — Importance of good table manners — Sugges- 
tions for table etiquette — The table — Its appearance and 
appointments — The table an educator in the household — 
A well ordered table an incentive to good manners — Osten- 
tation not necessary — Setting the table — The sub-cover 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. I9 

— Napkins — The center piece — Arrangement of dishes — 
"Dishing up" — Setting the table over night — Warming 
the dishes — The service of meals — A capital idea — Fruit 
as the first course at breakfast — To keep the food hot — A 
dinner of three courses — Plan of service when a servant is 
employed — General suggestions for waiters — Suggestions 
concerning dinner parties — Proper form of invitation — 
Arrangement and adornment of table — A pleasing custom 

— The menu card — Service for a company dinner — Eti- 
quette of dinner parties — Table topics. 

After Mealtime 471 

Clearing the table — Washing the dishes — papier-mache tubs — 
Ammonia, uses of — Clean dishes not evolved from dirty 
dishwater — Washing all dishes of one kind together — 
Washing milk dishes — Uses of the dish mop — Cleaning of 
dishes soiled by eggs — To clean an Q.gg beater — To clean 
grain boilers and mush kettles — Washing of tin dishes — 
To clean iron ware — To wash wooden ware — Care of steel 
knives and forks — Draining the dishes — - Dishcloths and 
towels — To make a dish mop — The care of glass and sil- 
ver — To keep table cutlery from rusting — To wash trays 
and Japanned ware — Care of the table linen — To remove 
stains — To dry table linen — To iron table linen — Wash- 
ing colored table linen — The garbage — Table topics. 

A Year's Breakfasts and Dinners 481 

A perplexing problem — Requisites for a well arranged menu — 
Suggestions for preparing bills of fare — Table of food analy- 
ses — Fifty-two weeks' breakfasts and dinners — Average 
cost — Analysis of various bills of fare — Table topics. 

A Batch of Dinners 543 

Holiday dinners — Holiday feasting — Holiday dinners opposed 
to temperance — Thanksgiving menus — Holiday menus — 
Picnic dinners — The lunch basket, provision for — Fruit 
sandwiches — Egg sandwiches — Picnic biscuit — Fig wafers 

— Suitable beverages — School lunches — Deficiency of 
food material in the ordinary school lunch — Why the after 
dinner session of school drags wearily — Simple lunches de- 
sirable — Suggestions for putting up the lunch — Creamy 
rice — Neatness and daintiness essential — The lunch bas- 
ket — Sabbath dinners — A needed reform — Feasting on 
the Sabbath, deleterious results of — Simple meals for the 
Sabbath — A Sabbath bill of fare — Table topics. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



The Alimentary Canal .... 
An Oven Thermometer .... 

Convenient Kitchen Table 

A Double Boiler 

Compartment Sink for Dish-Washing (open) 

Compartment Sink for Dish-Washing (closed) 

The Steam Cooker 

Vegetable Press 

Lemon Drill 

The Handy Waiter 

Wall Cabinet 

Percolator Holder 

Kneading Table 

Dish-Towel Rack . 

Vegetable Brush 

A Double Boiler .... 

Sectional View of Wheat Kernel 

Measuring Cups .... 

Mexican Woman Making Tortillas 

Stone Metate .... 

Gem Irons 

Perforated Sheet Iron Pan for Rolls 

Making Unfermented Bread 

Canning Utensils . 

Bain Marie 

Chinese Soup Strainer 

Creamery 

Oriental Butter-Making 

Arrangement for Straining Stoci- 

Gruel Strainer 

Extension Strainer 

Wire Dishcloth 



36 

50 

63 

67 

68 

69 

71 

71 

72 

72 

73 

74 

74 

75 

76 

81 

86 

127 

148 

149 

152 

152 

153 
197 
232 
273 
371 
374 
413 
421 
421 
474 



LIST OF PLATES 



The Household Workshop. 

Some Ancient Millers. 

A Japanese Dinner— The Macaroni 

Vender. 
Oranges, Cherries, Pears, and 

Peaches. (Colored) 

[20] 



A Neapolitan Macaroni Factory. 
Melon, Pineapple, Grapes. (Colored) 
A Center Piece of Assorted Fruits. 

(Colored) 
A Model Dining Room, 
A Picnic Dinner, 



INTRODUCTION. 



\TO one thing over which we have control exerts so marked 
^^ an influence upon our physical prosperity as the food we 
eat ; and it is no exaggeration to say that well-selected and 
scientifically prepared food renders the partaker whose diges- 
tion permits of its being well assimilated, superior to his fellow- 
mortals in those qualities which will enable him to cope most 
successfully with life's difficulties, and to fulfill the purpose of 
existence in the best and truest manner. The brain and other 
organs of the body are affected by the quality of the blood 
which nourishes them, and since the blood is made of the food 
eaten, it follows that the use of poor food will result in poor 
blood, poor muscles, poor brains, and poor bodies, incapable of 
first-class work in any capacity. Very few persons, however, 
ever stop to inquire Avhat particular foods are best adapted to 
the manufacture of good blood and the maintenance of perfect 
health ; but whatever gratifies the palate or is most conven- 
iently obtained, is cooked and eaten without regard to its die- 
tetic value. Far too many meals partake of the characteristics 
of the one described in the story told of a clergyman who, when 
requested to ask a blessing upon a dinner consisting of bread, 
hot and tinged with saleratus, meat fried to a crisp, potatoes 
swimming in grease, mince pie, preserves, and pickles, de- 
murred on the ground that the dinner was " not worth a bless- 
ing. " He might with equal propriety have added, "and not 
worth eating." 

[21] 



22 INTRODUCTION. 

The subject of diet and its relation to human welfare, is one 
deserving of the most careful consideration. It should be studied 
as a science, to enable us to choose such materials as are best 
adapted to our needs under the varying circumstances of cli- 
mate, growth, occupation, and the numerous changing condi- 
tions of the human system ; as an art, that we may become so 
skilled in the preparation of the articles selected as to make 
them both appetizing and healthful. It is an unfortunate fact 
that even among experienced housekeepers the scientific prin- 
ciples which govern the proper preparation of food, are but lit- 
tle understood, and much unwholesome cookery is the result. 
The mechanical mixing of ingredients is not sufficient to secure 
good results ; and many of the failures attributed to "poor ma- 
terial," "bad luck," and various other subterfuges to which cooks 
resort to excuse themselves, are more correctly attributable to 
ignorance of scientific principles. The common method of 
blindly following recipes, with no knowledge of "the reason, 
why," can hardly fail to be often productive of unsatisfactory 
results, which to the uninformed seem quite inexplicable. 

Cookery, when based upon scientific principles, ceases to be 
the difficult problem it so often appears. Cause and effect fol- 
low each other as certainly in the preparation of food as in other 
things ; and with a knowledge of the underlying principles, and 
faithfulness in carrying out the necessary details, failure be- 
comes almost an impossibility. There is no department of hu- 
man' activity where applied science offers greater advantages 
than in that of cookery, and in our presentation of the subjects 
treated in the following pages, we have endeavored, so far as 
consistent with the scope of this work, to give special promi- 
nence to the scientific principles involved in the successful pro- 
duction of wholesome articles of food. We trust our readers 
will find these principles so plainly elucidated and the subject 



INTRODUCTION. 23 

SO interesting, that they will be stimulated to undertake for 
themselves further study and research in this most important 
branch of household science. We have aimed also to give 
special precedence of space to those most important foods, the 
legumes, and grains and their products, which in the majority 
of cook books are given but little consideration or are even left 
out altogether, believing that our readers will be more interested 
in learning the many palatable ways in which these especially 
nutritious and inexpensive foods may be prepared, than in a 
reiteration of such dishes as usually make up the bulk of the 
average cook book. 

For reasons stated elsewhere (in the chapter on Milk, 
Cream, and Butter), we have in the preparation of all recipes 
made use of cream in place of other fats ; but lest there be 
some who may suppose because cream occupies so frequent 
a place in the recipes, and because of their inability to obtain 
that article, the recipes are therefore not adapted to their use, 
we wish to state that a large proportion of the recipes in which 
it is mentioned as seasoning, or for dressing, will be found to 
be very palatable with the cream omitted, or by the use in its 
place of some one of the many substitutes recommended. We 
ought also to mention in this connection, that wherever cream 
is recommended, unless otherwise designated, the quality used 
in the preparation of the recipes is that of single or twelve 
hour cream sufficiently diluted with milk, so that one fourth 
of each quart of milk is reckoned as cream. If a richer 
quality than this be used, the quantity should be diminished in 
proportion ; otherwise, by the excess of fat, a wholesome food 
may become a rich, unhealthful dish. 

In conclusion, the author desires to state that no recipe 
has been admitted to this work which has not been thoroughly 
tested by repeated trials, by far the larger share of such being 



24 INTRODUCTION. • 

original, either in the combination of the materials used, the 
method employed, or both materials and method. Care has 
been taken not to cumber the work with useless and indifferent 
recipes. It is believed that every recipe will be found valu- 
able, and that the variety offered is sufficiently ample, so that 
under the most differing circumstances, all may be well served. 

We trust therefore that those who undertake to use the 
work as a guide in their culinary practice, will not consider 
any given recipe a failure because success does not attend 
their first efforts. Perseverance and a careful study of the direc- 
tions given, will assuredly bring success to all who possess the 
natural or acquired qualities essential for the practice of that 
most useful of the arts, — " Healthful Cookery." 

Ella E. Kellogg. 

Battle Creek, April 20, i8p2. 




"j^ilE purposes of food are to promote growth, to supply 
% force and heat, and to furnish material to repair the 
y waste which is constantly taking place in the body. 
^^J Every breath, every thought, every motion, wears out 
some portion of the delicate and wonderful house in which we 
live. Various vital processes remove these worn and useless 
particles ; and to keep the body in health, their loss must be 
made good by constantly renewed supplies of material properly 
adapted to replenish the worn and impaired tissues. This ren- 
ovating material must be supplied through the medium of food 
and drink, and the best food is that by which the desired end 
may be most readily and perfectly attained. The great di- 
versity in character of the several tissues of the body, makes 
it necessary that food should contain a variety of elements, 
in order that each part may be properly nourished and 
replenished. 

The Food Elements. — The various elements found in 
food are the following : Starch, sugar, fats, albumen, mineral 
substances, indigestible substances. 

[25] 



26 scip:nce in the ki'ichen. 

The digestible food elements are often grouped, according 
to their chemical composition, into three classes ; viz., carbo- 
naceous, nitrogenous, and inorganic. The carbonaceous class 
includes starch, sugar, and fats ; the nitrogenous, all albuminous 
elements ; and the inorganic comprises the mineral elements. 

Stai'ch is only found in vegetable foods ; all grains, most 
vegetables, and some fruits, contain starch in abundance. Sev- 
eral kinds of sugar are made in nature's laboratory ; cane, 
grape, fruit, and milk sugar. The first is obtained from the 
sugar-cane, the sap of maple trees, and from the beet root. 
Grape and fruit sugars are found in most fruits and in honey. 
Milk sugar is one of the constituents of milk. Glucose, an arti- 
ficial sugar resembling grape sugar, is now largely manufactured 
by subjecting the starch of corn or potatoes to a chemical proc- 
ess ; but it lacks the sweetness of natural sugars, and is by 
no means a proper substitute for them. Albumen is found in 
its purest, uncombined state in the white of an ^%^, which is 
almost wholly composed of albumen. It exists, combined with 
other food elements, in many other foods, both animal and 
vegetable. It is found abundant in oatmeal, and to some ex- 
tent in the other grains, and in the juices of vegetables. All 
natural- foods contain elements which in many respects resemble 
albumen, diwd are so closely allied to it that for convenience they 
are usually classified under the general name of" albumen." The 
chief of these is gluten, which is found in wheat, rye, and bar- 
ley. Casein, found in peas, beans, and milk, and the fibi'in of 
flesh, are elements of this class. 

Fats are found in both animal and vegetable foods. Of 
animal fats, butter and suet are common examples. In vegeta- 
ble form, fat is abundant in nuts, peas, beans, in various of 
the grains, and in a few fruits, as the olive. As furnished by 
nature in nuts, legumes, grains, fruits, and milk, this element 
is always found in a state of fine subdivision, which condition 
is the one best adapted to its digestion. As most commonly 
used, in the form of free fats, as butter, lard, etc., it is not 
only difficult of digestion itself, but often interferes with the 
digestion of the other food elements which are mixed with 



FOODS. 2/ 

it. It was doubtless never intended that fats should be so 
modified from their natural condition and separated from other 
food elements as to be used as a separate article of food. The 
same may be said of the other carbonaccoLis elements, sugar 
and starch, neither of wliich, when used alone, is capable of 
sustaining life, although when combined in a proper and natural 
manner with other food elements, they perform a most im- 
portant part in the nutrition of the bod}-. Most foods contain 
a percentage of the j/a'nera/ elements. Grains and milk furnish 
these elements in abundance. The cellulose, or woody tissue, 
of vegetables, and the bran of wheat, are examples of z'n- 
digestible elements, which although they cannot be converted 
into blood and tissue, serve an important purpose by giving 
bulk to the food. 

With the exception of gluten, none of the food elements, 
when used alone, are capable of supporting life. A true food 
substance contains some of all the food elements, the amount 
of each varying in different foods. 

Uses of the Food Elements. — Concerning the purpose 
which these different elements serve, it has been demonstrated 
by the experiments of eminent physiologists that the carbona- 
ceous elements, which in general comprise the greater bulk of 
the food, serve three purposes in the body, i. They furnish 
material for the production of heat ; 2. They are a source of 
force when taken in connection with other food elements ; 3. 
They replenish the fatty tissues of the body. Of the carbona- 
ceous elements,— starch, sugar, and fats, — fats produce the 
greatest amount of heat in proportion to quantity ; that is, 
more lieat is developed from a pound of fat than from an equal 
weight of sugar or starch ; but this apparent advantage is more 
than counterbalanced by the fact that fats are much more diffi- 
cult of digestion than are the other carbonaceous elements, and 
if relied upon to furnish adequate material for bodily heat, would 
be productive of much mischief in overtaxing and producing 
disease of the digestive organs. The fact that nature has made 
a much more ample provision of starch and sugars than of fats 
in man's natural diet, would seem to indicate that they were 



28 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. - 

intended to be the chief source of carbonaceous food ; never- 
theless, fats, when taken in such proportion as nature supphes 
them, are necessary and important food elements. 

The nitrogenous food elements especially nourish the brain, 
nerves, muscles, and all the more highly vitalized and active 
tissues of the body, and also serve as a stimulus to tissue change. 
Hence it may be said that a food deficient in these elements is 
a particularly poor food. 

The inorganic elements, chief of which are the phosphates, 
and the carbonates of potash, soda, and lime, aid in furnishing 
the requisite building material for bones and nerves. 

Proper Combinations of Foods.— While it is important 
that our foods should contain some of all the various food ele- 
ments, experiments upon both animals and human beings show 
it is necessary that these elements, especially the nitrogenous 
and carbonaceous, be used in certain definite proportions, as the 
system is only able to appropriate a certain amount of each ; 
and all excess, especially of nitrogenous elements, is not only 
useless, but even injurious, since to rid the system of the sur- 
plus imposes an additional task upon the digestive and excre- 
tory organs. The relative proportion of these elements neces- 
sary to constitute a food which perfectly meets the requirements 
of the system, is six of carbonaceous to one of nitrogenous. 
Scientists have devoted much careful study and experimenta- 
tion to the determination of the quantities of each of the food 
elements required for the daily nourishment of individuals under 
the varying conditions of life, and it has come to be commonly 
accepted that of the nitrogenous material which should consti- 
tute one sixth of the nutrients taken, about tJiree o?inces is all 
that can be made use of in twenty-four hours, by a healthy adult 
of average weight, doing a moderate amount of work. Many 
articles of food are, however, deficient in one or the other of 
these elements, and need to be supplemented by other articles 
containing the deficient element in superabundance, since to 
employ a dietary in which any one of the nutritive elements is 
lacking, although in bulk it may be all the digestive organs can 
manage, is really starvation, and will in time occasion serious 
results. 



FOODS. 29 

It is thus apparent that much care should be exercised in 
the selection and combination of food materials. The table on 
page 484, showing the nutritive values of various foods, should 
be carefully studied. Such knowledge is of first importance in 
the education of cooks and housekeepers, since to them falls 
the selection of the food for the daily needs of the household ; 
and they should not only understand what foods are best suited 
to supply these needs, but how to combine them in accordance 
with physiological laws. 

Condiments. — By condiments are commonly meant such 
substances as are added to season food, to give it "a relish" or 
to stimulate appetite,, but which in themselves possess no real 
food value. To this category belong mustard, ginger, pepper, 
pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cloves, spices, and other 
similar substances. That anything is needed to disguise or 
improve the natural flavor of food, would seem to imply either 
that the article used was not a proper alimentary substance, or 
that it did not answer the purpose for which the Creator designed 
it. True condiments, such as pepper, pepper sauce, ginger, 
spice, mustard, cinnamon, cloves, etc., are all strong irritants. 
This may be readily demonstrated by their application to a 
raw surface. The intense smarting and burning occasioned are 
ample evidence of their irritating character. Pepper and mus- 
tard are capable of producing powerfully irritating effects, even 
when applied to the healthy skin where wholly intact. It is 
surprising that it does not occur to the mother who applies a 
mustard plaster to the feet of her child, to relieve congestion of 
the brain, that an article which is capable of producing a blister 
upon the external covering of the body, is quite as capable of 
producing similar effects when applied to the more sensitive 
tissues within the body. The irritating effects of these substances 
upon the stomach are not readily recognized, simply because 
the stomach is supplied with very few nerves of sensation. 
That condiments induce an intense degree of irritation of the 
mucous membrane of the stomach, was abundantly demon- 
strated by the experiments of Dr. Beaumont upon the unfor- 
tunate Alexis St. Martin. Dr. Beaumont records* that when 
St. Martin took mustard, pepper, and similar condiments svith 



30 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

his food, the mucous membrane of his stomach became intensely 
red and congested, appearing very much h'ke an inflanled eye. 
It is this irritating effect of condiments which gives occasion 
for their extended use. They create an artificial appetite, 
similar to the incessant craving of the chronic dyspeptic, whose 
irritable stomach is seldom satisfied. This fact with regard to 
condiments is a sufficient argument against their use, being one 
of the greatest causes of gluttony, since they remove the sense 
of satiety by which Nature says, " Enough." 

To a thoroughly normal and unperverted taste, irritating 
condiments of all sorts are very obnoxious. It is true that 
Nature accommodates herself to their use with food to such a 
degree that they may be employed for years without apparently 
producing very grave results ; but this very condition is a 
source of injury, since it is nothing more nor less than the go- 
ing to sleep of the sentinels which nature has posted at the 
portal of the body, for the purpose of giving warning of danger. 
The nerves of sensibility have become benumbed to such a 
degree that they no longer offer remonstrance against irritat- 
ing substances, and allow the enemy to enter into the citadel 
of life. The mischievous work is thus insidiously carried on 
year after year until by and by the individual breaks down with 
some chronic disorder of the liver, kidneys, or some other im- 
portant internal organ. Physicians have long observed that in 
tropical countries where curry powder and other condiments 
are very extensively used, diseases of the liver, especially acute 
congestion and inflammation, are exceedingly common, much 
more so than in countries and among nations where condiments 
are less freely used. A traveler in Mexico, some time ago, 
described a favorite Mexican dish as composed of layers of the 
following ingredients : " Pepper, mustard, ginger, pepper, po- 
tato, ginger ; mustard, pepper, potato, mustard, ginger, pep- 
per." The common use of such a dish is sufficient cause for 
the great frequency of diseases of the liver among the Mexicans, 
noted by physicians traveling in that country. That the use 
of condiments is wholly a matter of habit is evident from the 
fact that different nations employ as condiments articles which 



FOODS. 3 1 

would be in the highest degree obnoxious to people of other 
countries. For example, the garlic, so freely used in Russian 
cookery, would be considered by Americans no addition to the 
natural flavors of food ; and still more distasteful would be the 
asafetida frequently used as a seasoning in the cuisine of Persia 
and other Asiatic countries. 

The use of condiments is unquestionably a strong auxiliary 
to the formation of a habit of using intoxicating drinks. Persons 
addicted to the use of intoxicating liquors are, as a rule, fond 
of stimulating and highly seasoned foods ; and although the 
converse is not always true, yet it is apparent to every 
thoughtful person, that the use of a diet composed of highly 
seasoned and irritating food, institutes the conditions neces- 
sary for the acquirement of a taste for intoxicating liquors. 
The false appetite aroused by the use of food that " burns and 
stings," craves something less insipid than pure cold water to 
keep up the fever the food has excited. Again, condiments, 
like all other stimulants, must be continually increased in 
quantity, or their effect becomes diminished ; and this leads 
directly to a demand for stronger stimulants, both in eating 
and drinking, until the probable tendency is toward the 
dram-shop. 

A more serious reason why high seasonings lead to intem- 
perance, is in the perversion of the use of the sense of taste. 
Certain senses are given us to add to our pleasure as well as 
for the practical, almost indispensable, use they are to us. For 
instance, the sense of sight is not only useful, but enables us to 
drink in beauty, if among beautiful surroundings, without doing 
us any harm. The same of music and other harmonies which 
may come to us through the sense of hearing. Rut the sense 
of taste was given us to distinguish between wholesome and 
unwholesome foods, and cannot be used for merely sensuous 
gratification, without debasing and making of it a gross thing. 
An education which demands special enjoyment or pleasure 
through the sense of taste, is wholly artificial ; it is coming 
down to the animal plane, or below it rather ; for the instinct 
of the brute creation teaches it merely to eat to live. 



32 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Yet how wide-spread is this habit of sensuous gratification 
through the sense of taste ! If one calls upon a neighbor, he 
is at once offered refreshments of some kind, as though the 
greatest blessing of life came from indulging the appetite. 
This evil is largely due to wrong education, which begins with 
childhood. When Johnnie sits down to the table, the mother 
says, "Johnnie, what would you like?" instead of putting plain, 
wholesome food before the child, and taking it as a matter of 
course that he will eat it and be satisfied. The child grows to 
think that he must have what he likes, whether it is good for 
him or not. It is not strange that an appetite thus pampered 
in childhood becomes uncontrollable at maturity ; for the step 
from gormandizing to intoxication is much shorter than most 
people imagine. The natural, unperverted taste of a child will 
lead him to eat that which is good for him. But how can we 
expect the children to reform when the parents continually set 
them bad examples in the matter of eating and drinking.^ 

The cultivation of a taste for spices is a degradation of the 
sense of taste. Nature never designed that pleasure should be 
divorced from use. The effects of gratifying the sense of taste 
differ materially from those of gratifying the higher senses of 
sight and hearing. What we see is gone ; nothing remains 
but the memory, and the same is true of the sweetest sounds 
which may reach us through the ears. But what we taste is 
taken into the stomach, and what has thus given us brief 
pleasure through the gratification of the palate, must make 
work in the alimentary canal for fourteen hours before it is 
disposed of. 

Variety in Food. — Simplicity of diet should be a point of 
first consideration with all persons upon whom falls the respon- 
sibility of providing the family bills of fare, since the simplest 
foods are, as a rule, the most healthful. Variety is needed ; 
that is, a judicious mingling of fruits, grains, and vegetables ; 
but the general tendency is to supply our tables with too many 
kinds and to prepare each dish in the most elaborate manner, 
until, in many households, the cooking of food has come to be 
almost the chief end of life. While the preparation of food 



FOODS. 



33 



should be looked upon as of so much importance as to demand 
the most careful consideration and thout^ht as to its suitability, 
wholesomeness, nutritive qualities, and digestibility, it should 
by no means be made to usurp the larger share of one's time, 
when simpler foods and less labor would afford the partakers 
equal nourishment and strength. 

A great variety of foods at one meal exerts a j^otent inllu- 
ence in creating a love of eating, and is likewise a constant 
temptation to overeat. Let us have well-cooked, nutritious, 
and palatable food, and i)lenty of it ; variety from day to day, 
but not too great a variety at each meal. 

The prevalent custom of loading the table with a great num- 
ber of viands, upon occasions when guests are to be enter- 
tained in our homes, is one to be deplored, since it is neither 
conducive to good health nor necessary to good cheer, but on 
the contrary is so laborious and expensive a practice that many 
arc debarred from social intercourse because they cannot afford 
to entertain after the fashion of their neighbors. Upon this 
subject a well-known writer has aptly said: " Simplify cook- 
ery, thus reducing the cost of living, and how many longing 
individuals would thereby be enabled to afford themselves the 
pleasure of culture and social intercourse ! When the barbarous 
practice of stuffing one's guests shall have been abolished, a 
social gathering will not then imply, as it does now, hard labor, 
expensive outlay, and dyspepsia. Perhaps when that time 
arrives, we shall be sufficiently civilized to demand pleasures 
of a higher sort. True, the entertainments will then, in one 
sense, be more costly, as culture is harder to come by than 
cake. The profusion of viands now heaped upon the table, 
betrays poverty of the worst sort. Having nothing better to 
offer, we offer victuals ; and this we do with something of that 
complacent, satisfied air with which some more northern tribes 
present their tidbits of whale and walrus." 
3 



TABLE TOPICS. 



"Let appetite wear reason's golden chain, 
And find in due restraint its luxury." 

A man's food, when he has the means and opportunity of selecting it, suggests 
his moral nature. Many a Christian is trying to do by prayer that which cannot be 
done except through corrected diet. — Talmage. 

Our pious ancestors enacted a law that suicides should be buried where four 
roads meet, and that a cart-load of stones should be thrown upon the body. Yet, 
when gentlemen or ladies commit suicide, not by cord or steel, but by turtle soup or 
lobster salad, they may be buried on consecrated .ground, and the public are not 
ashamed to read an epitaph upon their tombstones false enough to make the marble 
blush. — Horace Mann. 

It is related by a gentleman who had an appointment to breakfast with the 
late A. T. Stewart, that the butler placed before them both an elaborate bill of fare ; 
the visitor selected a list of rare dishes, and was quite abashed when Mr. Stewart 
said, " Bring me my usual breakfast, — oatmeal and boiled eggs." He then explained 
to his friend that he found simple food a necessity to him, otherwise he could not 
think clearly. That unobscured brain applied to nobler ends would have won higher 
results, but the principle remains the same. — Sel. 

Study simplicity in the number of dishes, and variety in the character of the 
meals. — Sel. 

I HAVE come to the conclusion that more than half the disease which em- 
bitters life is due to avoidable errors in diet, . ,. . and that more mischief, in the form of 
actual disease, of impaired vigor, and of shortened life, accrues to civilized man from 
erroneous habits of eating than from the habitual use of alcoholic drink, considerable 
as I know that evil to be. — Sir Henry Thompson. 

The ancient Gauls, who were a very brave, strong, and hardy race, lived very 
abstemiously. Their food was milk, berries, and herbs. They made bread of nuts. 
They had a very peculiar fashion of wearing a metal ring around the body, the size 
of which was regulated by act of Parliament. Any man who outgrew in circum- 
ference his metal ring was looked upon as a lazy glutton, and consequently was dis- 
graced. 

To keep in health this rule is wise : 

Eat only when you need, and relish food. 
Chew thoroughly that it may do you good. 
Have it well cooked, unspiced, and undisguised. 

— Leonardo da Vitici, 

[34] 




:i^' 



GE5TION 




'T is important that the housekeeper not only understand 
the nature and composition of foods, but she should also 
know something" of their digestive properties, since food, to 
^ be serviceable, must be not only nutritious, but easily di- 
gested. Digestion is the process by which food is rendered 
soluble, and capable of being absorbed for use in carrying on 
the various vital processes. 

The digestive apparatus consists of a long and tortuous tube 
called the alimentary canal, varying in length from twenty-five 
to thirty feet, along which are arranged the various digestive 
organs, — th-e mouth, the stomach, the liver, and the pancreas, 
— each of which, together with the intestines, has an important 
function to perform. In these various organs nature manufact- 
ures five wonderful fluids for changing and dissolving the sev- 
eral food elements. The mouth supplies the saliva ; in the walls 
of the stomach are little glands which produce the gastric juice ; 
the pancreatic juice is made by the pancreas ; the liver secretes 
bile ; while scattered along the small intestines are minute 

[35] 



36 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



glands which make the intestinal juice. Each of these fluids 
has a particular work to do in transforming some portion of the 
food into suitable material for use in the body. The saliva acts 

upon the starch of the 
food, . changing it into 
sugar ; the gastric juice 
digests albumen and 
other nitrogenous ele- 
ments ; the bile digests 
fat, and aids in the ab- 
sorption of other food 
elements after they are 
digested ; the pancreatic 
juice is not confined in its 
action to a single ele- 
ment, but' digests starch, 
fats, and the albuminous 
elements after they have 
been acted upon by the 
gastric juice ; the intes- 
tinal juice is capable of 
acting upon all digestible 
food elements. 

The Digestion of a 
Mouthful of Bread.— A 
mouthful of bread repre- 
sents all, or nearly all, 
the elements of nutrition. 
Taking a mouthful of 
bread as a representative 
of food in general, it may 
be said that its digestion 
begins the moment it en- 
ters the mouth, and con- 

The Alimentary Canal. «. Esoptiagus ; i. Stomach ; tUlueS the entire length 

c. Cardiac Orifice; d. Pylorus; e. Small Intestine; c ^v q 1 irriF" n1-Q rx7 r-anal 

/. Bile Duct: g. Pancreatic Duct; h. Ascending Co- ^^ ^Ue dlimeutary CaUdl, 

I'^n ; i. Transverse Colon; /'. Descending Colon; k, .•■> , i j- .-i i 

Rectum. or until the digestible 




'nil-: DIGESTION OF FOODS. 3/ 

portion of the food has been completely digested and absorbed. 
We quote the following brief description of the digestive proc- 
ess from Dr. J. H. Kellogg's Second Book in Physiology -' : — 

''Mastication. — The first act of the digestive process is mas- 
tication, or chewing the food, the purpose of \\hich is to crush 
the food and divide it into small particles, so that the various 
digestive fluids may easily and promptly come into contact with 
every part of it. 

'' Salivary Digestion. — During the mastication of the food, 
the salivary glands are actively pouring out the saliva, which 
mingles with the food, and by softening it, aids in its division and 
prepares it for the action of the other digestive fluids. It also 
acts upon the starch, converting a portion of it into grape- 
sugar, 

^'Stomach Digestion. — After receiving the food, the stomach 
soon begins to pour out the gastric juice, which first makes its 
appearance in little drops, like beads of sweat upon the face 
when the perspiration starts. As the quantity increases, the 
drops run together, trickle down the side of the stomach, and 
mingle with the food. The muscular walls of the stomach con- 
tract upon the food, moving it about with a sort of crushing- 
action, thoroughly mixing the gastric juice with the food. 
During this process both the openings of the stomach are closed 
tightly. The gastric juice softens the food, digests albumen, 
and coagulates milk. The saliva continues its action upon 
starch for some time after the food reaches the stomach. 

" After the food has remained in the stomach from one to 
three hours, or even longer, if the digestion is slow, or indiges- 
tible foods have been eaten, the contractions of the stomach 
become so vigorous that the more fluid portions of the food are 
squeezed out through the pylorus, the lower orifice of the 
stomach, thus escaping into the intestine. The pylorus does not 
exercise any sort of intelligence in the selection of food, as was 
once supposed. The increasing acidit\' of the contents of the 
stomach causes its muscular walls to contract with increasing 



*Good Health Pub. Co., Battle Creek, Mich. 



38 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

vigor, until finally those portions of the food which may be less 
perfectly broken up, but which the stomach has been unable to 
digest, are forced through the pylorus. 

^^ Intestinal Digestion. — As it leaves the stomach, the par- 
tially digested mass of food is intensely acid, from the large 
quantity of gastric juice which it contains. Intestinal digestion 
cannot begin until the food becomes alkaline. The alkaline bile 
neutralizes the gastric juice, and renders the digesting mass 
slightly alkaline. The bile also acts upon the fatty elements of 
the food, converting them into an emulsion. The pancreatic 
juice converts the starch into grape-sugar, even acting upon 
raw starch. It also digests fats and albumen. The intestinal 
juice continues the work begun by the other digestive fluids, 
and, in addition, digests cane-sugar, converting it into grape- 
sugar. 

" Othej- Uses of the Digestive Fluids. — In addition to the uses 
which we have already stated, several of the digestive fluids 
possess other interesting properties. The saliva aids the 
stomach by stimulating its glands to make gastric juice. The 
gastric juice and the bile are excellent antiseptics, by which the 
food is preserved from fermentation while undergoing digestion. 
The bile also stimulates the movements of the intestines by 
which the food is moved along, and aids absorption. It is re- 
markable and interesting that a fluid so useful as the bile should 
be at the same time composed of waste matters which are being 
removed from the body. This is an illustration of the Avonder- 
ful economy shown by nature in her ope»"ations. 

" The food is moved along the alimentary canal, from the 
stomach downward, by successive contractions of the muscular 
walls of the intestines, known as peristaltic movements, which 
occur with great regularity during digestion. 

''Absorption. — The absorption of the food begins as soon as 
any portion has been digested. Even in the mouth and the 
esophagus a small amount is absorbed. The entire mucous 
membrane lining the digestive canal is furnished with a rich 
supply of blood-vessels, by which the greater part of the di- 
gestive food is absorbed. 



THE DIGESTION OF FOODS. 



39 



" Liver Digestion. — The liver as well as the stomach is a 
digestive organ, and in a double sense. It not only secretes a 
digestive fluid, the bile, but it acts upon the food brought to it 
by the portal vein, and regulates the supply of digested food to 
the general system. It converts a large share of the grape- 
sugar and partially digested starch brought to it into a kind of 
liver starch, termed glycogen, which it stores up in its tissues. 
During the interval between the meals, the liver gradually re- 
digests the glycogen, reconverting it into sugar, and thus sup- 
plying it to the blood in small quantities, instead of allowing 
the entire amount formed in digestion to enter the circulation 
at once. If too large an amount of sugar entered the system at 
once, it would be unable to use it all, and would be compelled 
to get rid of a considerable portion through the kidneys. The 
liver also completes the digestion of albumen and other food 
elements." 

Time Required for Digestion. — The length of time re- 
quired for stomach digestion varies with different food sub- 
stances. The following table shows the time necessary for the 
stomach digestion of some of the more commonly used foods : — 



Rice 

^Sago 

Tapioca 

Barley 

Beans, pod, boiled. . . . 

Bread, wheaten 

Bread, corn 

Apples, sour and raw. 
Apples, sweet and raw 

Parsnips, boiled 

Beets, boiled 

Turnips, flat, boiled . . 
Potatoes, Irish, boiled. 
Potatoes, Irish, baked. 

Cabbage, raw 

Cabbage, boiled 

Milk, boiled 

Milk, raw 

Eggs, hard boiled .... 

Eggs, soft boiled 

Eggs, fried 

Eggs, raw 



rs. 


min. 


I 


CX) 


I 


45 


2 


oo 


2 


oo 


2 


JO 


3 


30 


3 


15 


2 


00 


I 


30 


2 


30 


3 


45 


3 


30 


3 


30 


2 


30 


2 


30 


4 


30 


2 


00 


2 


15 


3 


30 


3 


00 


3 


30 


2 


00 



hrs. min. 

Eggs, whipped i 30 

Salmon, salted, boiled 4 00 

Oysters, raw 2 55 

Oysters, stewed 3 30 

Beef, lean, rare roasted 3 00 

Beefsteak, boiled 3 00 

Beef, lean, fried 4 00 

Beef, salted, boiled 4 15 

Pork, roasted 5 15 

Pork, salted, fried 4 15 

Mutton, roasted 3 15 

Mutton, broiled 3 00 

Veal, broiled 4 00 

Veal, fried 4 30 

Fowls, boiled 4 00 

Duck, roasted 4 30 

Butter, melted 3 30 

Cheese 3 30 

Soup, marrowbone 4 '5 

Soup, bean 3 00 

Soup, mutton 3 3° 

Chicken, boiled . . . .^ 3 00 



40 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

The time required for the digestion of food also depends 
upon the condition under which the food is eaten. Healthy 
stomach digestion requires at least five hours for its completion, 
and the stomach should have an hour for rest before another 
meal. If fresh food is taken before that which preceded it is 
digested, the portion of food remaining in the stomach is likely 
to undergo fermentation, thus rendering the whole mass of food 
unfit for the nutrition of the body, besides fostering various dis- 
turbances of digestion. It has been shown by recent observa- 
tions that the length of time required for food to pass through 
the entire digestive process to which it is subjected in the 
mouth, stomach, and small intestines, is from twelve to four- 
teen hours. 

Hygiene of Digestion.— With the stomach and other di- 
gestive organs in a state of perfect health, one is entirely un- 
conscious of their existence, save when a feeling of hunger calls 
attention to the fact that food is required, or satiety warns us 
that a sufficient amount or too much has been eaten. Perfect 
digestion can only be maintained by careful observance of the 
rules of health in regard to habits of eating. 

On the subject of Hygiene of Digestion we again quote a 
few paragraphs from Dr. Kellogg's work on Physiolog}', in 
which is given a concise summary of the more important points 
relating to this : — 

" The hygiene of digestion has to do with the quality and 
quantity of food eaten, and the manner of eating it. 

" Hasty Eating. — If the food is eaten too rapidly, it will not 
be properly divided, and when swallowed in coarse lumps, the 
digestive fluids cannot readily act upon it. On account of the 
insufficient mastication, the saliva will be deficient in quantity, 
and, as a consequence, the starch will not be well digested, and 
the stomach will not secrete a sufficient amount of gastric juice. 
It is not well to eat only soft or liquid food, as we are likely to 
swallow it without proper chewing. A considerable proportion 
of hard food, which requires thorough mastication, should be 
eaten at every meal. 



TIIK DKJESTION OF FOODS. 41 

'' Dri)iki)tg- Freely at Meals is harmful, as it not only encour- 
ages hasty eating, but dilutes the gastric juice, and thus lessens 
its activity. The food should be chewed until sufficiently 
moistened by saliva to allow it to be swallowed. When large 
quantities of fluid are taken into the stomach, digestion does 
not begin until a considerable portion of the fluid has been 
absorbed. If cold foods or drinks are taken with the meal, 
such as ice-cream, ice-water, iceid milk or tea, the stomach 
is chilled, and a long delay in the digestive process is occa- 
sioned. 

" The Indians of Brazil carefully abstain from drinking when 
eating, and the same custom prevails among many other savage 
tribes. 

'^Rating betzveeii Meals. — The habit of eating apples, nuts, 
fruits, confectionary, etc., between meals is exceedingly harm- 
ful, and certain to produce loss of appetite and indigestion. 
The stomach as well as the muscles and other organs of the 
body requires rest. The frequency with which meals should 
be taken depends somewhat upon the age and occupation of an 
individual. Infants take their food at short intervals, and, ow- 
ing to its simple character, are able to digest it very quickly. 
Adults should not take food oftener than three times a dai)' ; 
and persons whose employment is sedentary may, in many 
cases at least, adopt with advantage the plan of the ancient 
Greeks, who ate but twice a day. The latter custom is quite 
general among the higher classes in France and Spain, and in 
several South American countries. 

" Simplicity in Diet. — Taking too many kinds of food at a 
meal is a common fault which is often a cause of disease 
of the digestive organs. Those nations are the most hard}' 
and enduring whose dietary is most simple. The Scotch 
peasantry live chiefly upon oatmeal, the Irish upon potatoes, 
milk, and oatmeal, the Italian upon peas, beans, macaroni, and 
chestnuts ; yet all these are noted for remarkable health and 
endurance. The natives of the Canary Islands, an exceedingly 
well-developed and vigorous race, subsist almost chiefly upon 



42 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

a food which they call gofio, consisting of parched grain, coarsely 
ground in a mortar and mixed with water. 

"'Eating when Tired. — It is not well to eat when exhausted 
by violent exercise, as the system is not prepared to do the 
work of digestion well. Sleeping immediately after eating is 
also a harmful practice. The process of digestion cannot well 
be performed during sleep, and sleep is disturbed by the ineffec- 
tive efforts of the digestive organs. Hence the well-known 
evil effects of late suppers. 

''Eating too Much. — Hasty eating is the greatest cause of 
over-eating. When one eats too rapidly, the food is crowded 
into the stomach so fast that nature has no time to cry, ' Enough,' 
by taking away the appetite before too much has been eaten. 
When an excess of food is taken, it is likely to ferment or sour 
before it can be digested. One Avho eats too much usually feels 
dull after eating. 

'' Hoiv Mucli Food is En&ngh ? —^ThQ proper quantity for 
each person to take is what he is able to digest and utilize. 
This amount varies with each individual, at different times. 
The amount needed will vary with the amount of work done, 
mental or muscular ; with the weather or the season of the 
year, more food being required in cold than in warm weather : 
with the age of an individual, very old and very young per- 
sons requiring less food than those of middle age. An unper- 
verted appetite, not artificially stimulated, is a safe guide. 
Drowsiness, dullness, and heaviness at the stomach are indica- 
tions of an excess of eating, and naturally suggest a lessening 
of the quantity of food, unless the symptoms are known to 
arise from some other cause. 

" Excess of Certain Food Elements. — When sugar is too 
freely used, either with food or in the form of sweetmeats or 
candies, indigestion, and even more serious disease, is likely to 
result. Fats, when freely used, give rise to indigestion and 
' biliousness.' An excess of albumen from the too free use of 
meat is harmful. Only a limited amount of this element can 
be used ; an excess is treated as waste matter, and must be re- 
moved from the system by the liver and the kidneys. The 



THE DIGESTION OF FOODS. 43 

majority of persons would enjoy better health by using meat 
more moderately than is customary in this country. 

'^Deficiency of Certain Food Elements. — A diet deficient in 
any important food element is even more detrimental to health 
than a diet in which certain elements are in excess. 

"The popular notion that beef-tea and meat extracts con- 
tain the nourishing- elements of meat in a concentrated form, 
is a dangerous error. Undoubtedly many sick persons have 
been starved by being fed exclusively upon these articles, which 
are almost wholly composed of waste substances. Prof. Paule 
Bernard, of Paris, found that dogs fed upon meat extracts died 
sooner than those which received only water." 

Food=Combinations. — Some persons, especially those of 
weak digestive powers, often experience inconvenience in the 
use of certain foods, owing to their improper combinations with 
other articles. Many foods which are digested easily when 
partaken of alone or in harmonious combinations, create much 
disturbance when eaten at the same meal with several different 
articles of food, or with some particular article with which they 
are especially incompatible. The following food combinations 
are among the best, the relative excellence of each being in- 
dicated by the order in which they are named : Milk and 
grains ; grains and eggs ; grains and vegetables or meats ; 
grains and fruits. 

Persons with sound stomachs and vigorous digestion will 
seldom experience inconvenience in making use of other and 
more varied combinations, but dyspeptics and persons troubled 
with slow digestion will find it to their advantage to select 
from the bill of fare such articles as best accord with each other, 
and to avoid such combinations as fruits and vegetables, milk 
and vegetables, milk and meats, sugar and milk, meat or vege- 
tables, fats with fruits, meats, or vegetables, or cooked with 
grains. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Now good digestion waits on appetite, and health on lioth. — Shakespeare. 

We live not upon what we eat, but upon what we digest. — Aheniethy. 

If we consider the amount of ill temper, despondency, and general unhappiness 
which arises from want of proper digestion and assimilation of our food, it seems ob- 
viously well worth while to put forth every effort, and itndergo any sacrifice, for the 
purpose of avoiding indigestion, with its resulting bodily ills ; and yet year after year, 
from the cradle to the grave, we go on violating the plainest and simplest laws of 
health at the temptation of cooks, caterers, and confectioners, whose share in short- 
ening the average term of human life is probably nearly equal to that of the combined 
armies and navies of the world. — Richardson. 

Almost every human malady is connected, either by highway or byway, with the 
stomach. — Sir Fraftcis Head. 

It is a well-established fact that a leg of mutton caused a revolution in the affairs 
of Europe. Just before the battle of Leipsic, Napoleon the Great insisted on dining 
on boiled mutton, although his physicians warned him that it would disagree with 
him. The emperor's brain resented the liberty, taken with its colleague, the stom- 
ach ; the monarch's equilibrium was overturned, the battle lost, and a new page 
opened in history. — Sel. 

Galloping consumption at the dinner table is one of the national disorders.— .SV/. 

The kitchen (that is, your stomach) being out of order, the garret (the head) 
cannot be right, and every room in the house becomes affected. Remedy the evil 
in the kitchen, and all will be right in parlor and chamber. If you put improper 
food into the stomach, you play the mischief with it, and with the whole machine 
besides. — Abernethy. 

C.A.TTLE know when to go home from grazing, but a foolish man never knows his 
stomach's measures. — Scatidinavian Proverb. 

Enough is as good as a feast. 

Simplicity of diet is the characteristic of the dwellers in the Orient. Ac- 
cording to Niebuhr, the sheik of the desert wants only a dish of pillau, or boiled rice, 
which he eats without fork or spoon. Notwithstanding their frugal fare, these sons 
of the desert are among the most hardy and enduring of all members of the human 
family. A traveler tells of seeing one of them run up to the top of the tallest pyra- 
mid and back in six minutes. 

One fourth of what we eat keeps us, and the other three fourths we keep at the 
peril of our lives. — Ahernetltv. 

[44] 




T is not enough that good and proper food material be pro- 
vided ; it must have such preparation as will increase 
and not diminish its alimentary value. The unwholesome- 
<^^ ness of food is quite as often due to bad cookery as to 
improper selection of material. Proper cookery renders good 
food material more digestible. When scientifically done, cook- 
ing changes each of the food elements, with the exception of 
fats, in much the same manner as do the digestive juices, and 
at the same time it breaks up the food by dissolving the soluble 
portions, so that its elements are more readily acted upon by 
the digestive fluids. Cookery, however, often fails to attain 
the desired end ; and the best material is rendered useless and 
unwholesome by improper preparation. 

It is rare to find a table, some portion of the food upon which 
is not rendered unwholesome either by improper preparatory 
treatment, or by the addition of some deleterious substance. 
This is doubtless due to the fact that the preparation of food 
being such a commonplace matter, its important relations to 

L45J 



46 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

health, mind, and body have been overlooked, and it has been 
regarded as a menial service which might be undertaken with 
little or no preparation, and without attention to matters other 
than those which relate to the pleasure of the eye and the pal- 
ate. With taste only as a criterion, it is so easy to disguise the 
results of careless and improper cookery of food by the use of 
flavors and condiments, as well as to palm off upon the digest- 
ive organs all sorts of inferior material, that poor cookery has 
come to be the rule rather than the exception. 

Another reason for this prevalence of bad cookery, is to be 
found in the fact that in so many homes the cooking is in- 
trusted to an ignorant class of persons having no knowledge 
whatever of the scientific principles involved in this most im- 
portant and practical of arts. An ethical problem which we 
have been unable to solve is the fact that Avomen who would 
never think of trusting the care of their fine china and bric-a- 
brac to unskilled hands, unhesitatingly intrust to persons who 
are almost wholly untrained, the preparation of their daily food. 
There is no department of life where superior intelligence is 
more needed than in the selection and preparation of food, 
upon which so largely depend the health and physical welfare 
of the family circle. 

The evils of bad cookery and ill-selected food are manifold, 
so many, in fact, that it has been calculated that they far exceed 
the mischief arising from the use of strong drink ; indeed, one 
of the evils of unwholesome food is its decided tendency to 
create a craving for intoxicants. Bad cookery causes indiges- 
tion, indigestion causes thirst, and thirst perpetuates drunken- 
ness. Any one who has suffered from a fit of indigestion, and 
can recollect the accompanying headache and the lowness of 
spirits, varying in degree from dejection or ill-humor to the 
most extreme melancholy, until the intellectual faculties seemed 
dazed, and the moral feelings blunted, will hardly wonder that 
when such a condition becomes chronic, as is often the case 
from the use of improperly prepared food, the victim is easily 
led to resorc to stimulants to drown depression and enliven 
the spirits. 



COOKERY. 47 

A thorough practical knowledge of simple, wholesome cook- 
ery ought to form a part of the education of every young 
woman, whatever her station in life. No position in life is more 
responsible than that of the person who arranges the bills of 
fare and selects the food for the household ; and what higher 
mission can one conceive than to intelligently prepare the 
wherewithal to make shoulders strong to bear life's bur- 
dens and heads clear to solve its intricate problems } what 
worthier work than to help in the building up of bodies into 
pure temples fit for guests of noble thoughts and high pur- 
poses ? Surely, no one should undertake such important work 
without a knowledge of the principles involved. 

THE PRINCIPLES OF SCIENTIFIC COOKERY. 

Cookery is the art of preparing food for the table by dress- 
ing, or by the application of heat in some manner. 

Fuels. — Artificial heat is commonly produced by combus- 
tion, caused by the chemical action of the oxygen of the air 
upon the hydrogen and carbon found in fuel. The different 
fuels in common use for cooking purposes are hard wood, soft 
wood, charcoal, anthracite coal, bituminous coal, coke, lignite, 
kerosene oil, gasoline, and gas. As to their respective values, 
much depends upon the purpose for which they are to be used. 
Wood charcoal produces a greater amount of heat than an equal 
weight of any other fuel. Soft wood burns quicker and gives a 
more intense heat than hard wood, and hence is best for a quick 
fire. Hard wood burns slowly, produces a larger mass of coals, 
and is best where long-continued heat is desired. Anthracite 
coal kindles slowly, and burns with little flame or smoke, but its 
vapor is sulphurous, and on that account it should never be 
burned in an open stove, nor in one with an imperfect draft. 
Its heat is steady and intense. Bituminous coal ignites readily, 
burns with considerable flame and smoke, and gives a much less 
intense heat than anthracite. Lignite, or brown coal, is much 
less valuable as fuel. Coke is useful when a short, quick fire is 
needed. Kerosene and gas are convenient and economical fuels. 



48 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Making Fires.-^If coal is the fuel to be used, first clean out 
the stove by shaking the grate and removing all ashes and 
cinders. Remove the stove covers, and bru§h the soot and 
ashes out of all the flues and draft holes into the fire-box. 
Place a large handful of shavings or loosely twisted or crumpled 
papers upon the grate, over which lay some fine pieces of dry 
kindling-wood, arranged crosswise to permit a free draft, then 
a few sticks of hard wood, so placed as to allow plenty of air 
spaces. Be sure that the wood extends out to both ends of the 
fire-box. Replace the covers, and if the stove needs blacking, 
mix the polish, and apply it, rubbing with a dry brush until 
nearly dry, then light the fuel, as a little heat will facilitate the 
polishing. When the wood is burning briskly, place a shovel- 
ful or two of rather small pieces of coal upon the wood, and, as 
they ignite, gradually add more, until there is a clear, 
bright body of fire, remembering, however, never to fill the 
stove above the fire bricks ; then partly close the direct draft. 
When wood or soft coal is used, the fuel may be added at the 
same time with the kindling. 

Care of Fires. — Much fuel is wasted through the loss of 
heat from too much draft. Only just enough air should be sup- 
plied to promote combustion. A coal fire, when well kindled, 
needs only air enough to keep it burning. When the coal be- 
comes red all through, it has parted with the most of its heat, 
and the fire will soon die unless replenished. To keep a steady 
fire, add but a small amount of fuel at a time, and repeat often 
enough to prevent any sensible decrease of the degree of heat. 
Rake the fire from the bottom, and keep it clear of ashes and 
cinders. If a very hot fire is needed, open the drafts ; at other 
times, keep them closed, or partially so, and not waste fuel. 
There is no economy in allowing a fire to get low before fuel is 
added ; for the fresh fuel cools the fire to a temperature so low 
that it is not useful, and thus occasions a direct waste of all fuel 
necessary to again raise the heat to the proper degree, to say 
nothing of the waste of time and patience. The addition of 
small quantities of fuel at short intervals so long as continuous 
heat is needed, is far better than to let the fuel burn nearly out, 



COOKERY. 49 

and then add a larger quantity. The improper management of 
the drafts and dampers has also much to do with waste of fuel. 
As stoves are generally constructed, it is necessary for the heat 
to pass over the top, down the back, and under the bottom of 
the oven before escaping into the flue, in order to properly heat 
the oven for baking. In order to force the heat to make this 
circuit, the direct draft of the stove needs to be closed. With 
this precaution observed, a quick fire from a small amount of 
fuel, used before its force is spent, will produce better results 
than a fire-box full under other circumstances. 

An item of economy for those who are large users of coal, 
is the careful sifting of the cinders from the ashes. They can 
be used to good advantage to put first upon the kindlings, when 
building the fire, as they ignite more readily than fresh coal, 
and give a greater, quicker heat, although much less enduring. 

Methods of Cooking. — A proper source of heat having 
been secured, the next step is to apply it to the food in some 
manner. The principal methods commonly employed are 
roasting, broiling, baking, boiling, stewing, simmering, steam 
ing, and frying. 

Roasting is cooking food in its own juices before an open 
fire. A clear fire with intense heat is necessary. 

Broiling, or gj-illing, is cooking by radiant heat over glow- 
ing coals. This method is only adapted to thin pieces of food 
with a considerable amount of surface. Larger and more com- 
pact foods should be roasted or baked. Roasting and broiling 
are allied in principle. In both, the work is chiefly done by the 
radiation of heat directly upon the surface of the food, although 
some heat is communicated by the hot air surrounding the 
food. The intense heat applied to the food soon sears its outer 
surfaces, and thus prevents the escape of its juices. If care be 
taken frequently to turn the food so that its entire surface 
will be thus acted upon, the interior of the mass is cooked by 
its own juices. 

Baking \s the cooking of food by dry heat in a closed oven. 
Only foods containing a considerable degree of moisture are 
adapted for cooking by this method. The hot; dry air which 
4 



50 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



fills the oven is always thirsting for moisture, and will take 
from every moist substance to which it has access a quantity 
of water proportionate to its degree of heat. Foods contain- 
ing but a small amount of moisture, unless protected in some 
manner from the action of the heated air, or in some way sup- 
plied with moisture during the cooking process, come from the 
oven dry, hard, and unpalatable. 

Proper cooking by this method depends greatly upon the 
facility with which the heat of the oven can be regulated. 
When oil or gas is the fuel used, it is an easy matter to secure 
and maintain almost any degree of heat desirable, but with a 
wood or coal stove, especial care and painstaking are necessary. 
It is of the first importance that the mechanism of the oven 
to be used, be thoroughly understood by the cook, and she 

should test its heating capacity 
under various conditions, with a 
light, quick fire and with a more 
steady one ; she should carefully 
note the kind and amount of fuel 
requisite to produce a certain de- 
gree of heat ; in short, she should 
thoroughly know her "machine" 
and its capabilities before at- 
tempting to use it for the cook- 
ing of food. An oven thermome- 
ter is of the utmost value for 
testing the heat, but unfortu- 
nately, such thermometers are 
not common. They are obtainable in England, although quite 
expensive. It is also possible at the present time to obtain 
ranges with a very reliable thermometer attachment to the 
oven door. 

•A cook of good judgment by careful observation and com- 
parison of results, can soon learn to form quite a correct idea of 
the heat of her oven by the length of time she can hold her 
hand inside it without discomfort, but since much depends upon 
the construction of stoves and the kind of fuel used, and since 




An Oven Thermometer. 



COOKERY. 51 

the dei^rec of heat bearable will vary with every hand that tries 
it, each person Avho depends upon this test must make her own 
standard. When the heat of the oven is found to be too great, 
it may be lessened by placing in it a dish of cold water. 

Boiling \s the cooking of food in a boiling liquid. Water is 
the usual medium employed for this purpose. When water is 
heated, as its temperature is increased, minute bubbles of air 
which have been dissolved by it are given off. As the tempera- 
ture rises, bubbles of steam will begin to form at the bottom of 
the vessel. At first these will be condensed as they rise into 
the cooler water above, causing a simmering sound ; but as the 
heat increases, the bubbles will rise higher and higher before 
collapsing, and in a short time will pass entirely through the 
water, escaping from its surface, causing more or less agitation, 
according to the rapidity with which they are formed. Water 
boils when the bubbles thus rise to the surface, and steam is 
thrown off. If the temperature is now tested, it will be found 
to be about 212° F. When water begins to boil, it is impos- 
sible to increase its temperature, as the steam carries off the heat 
as rapidly as it is communicated to the water. The only way 
in which the temperature can be raised, is by the confinement of 
the steam ; but owing to its enormous expansive force, this is 
not practicable with ordinary cooking utensils. The mechan- 
ical action of the water is increased by rapid bubbling, but not 
the heat ; and to boil anything violently does not expedite the 
cooking process, save that by the mechanical action of the 
water the food is broken into smaller pieces, which are for this 
reason more readily softened. But violent boiling occasions an 
enormous waste of fuel, and by driving away in the steam the 
volatile and savory elements of the food, renders it much less 
palatable, if not altogether tasteless. The solvent properties 
of water are so increased by heat that it permeates the food, 
rendering its hard and tough constituents soft and easy of 
digestion. 

The liquids mostly employed in the cooking of foods are 
water and milk. Water is best suited for the cooking of most 
foods, but for such farinaceous foods as rice, macaroni, and 



52 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

farina, milk, or at least part milk, is preferable, as it adds to 
tlicir nutritix'e \alue. In using- milk for cooking' 2)iirposes, it 
should be remembered that beini^ more dense than water, M'hen 
heated, less steam escapes, and consecjuently it boils sooner 
than does water. Then, too, milk being- more dense, when it is 
used alone for cooking-, a little larger quantity of fluid will be 
required than when water is used. 

The boiling" point for water at the sea level is 212°. At all 
points above the sea level, water boils at a temperature ))e- 
low 212°, the exact temperature depending upon the altitude. 
At the top of Mt. Blanc, an altitude of 15,000 feet, water boils 
at 185°. The boiling point is lowered one degree for every 
600 feet increase in altitude. The boiling point may be 
increased by adding soluble substances to the water. A 
saturated solution of common baking soda boils at 220°. A 
saturated solution of chloride of sodium boils at 227°. A simi- 
lar solution of sal ammoniac boils at 238°. Of course such 
solutions cannot be used advantageously, except as a means 
of cooking articles placed in hermetically sealed vessels and 
immersed in the liquid. 

Different effects upon food are produced by the use of hard 
and soft water. Peas and beans boiled in hard water containing 
lime or gypsum, will not become tender, because these chem- 
ical substances harden vegetable casein, of which element peas 
and beans are largely composed. For extracting the juices of 
meat and the soluble parts of other foods, soft water is best, as 
it more readily penetrates the tissue ; but when it is desired to 
preserve the articles whole, and retain their juices and flavors, 
hard water is preferable. 

Foods should be put to cook in cold or boiling water, in ac- 
cordance with the object to be attained in their cooking. 
Foods from which it is desirable to extract the nutrient prop- 
erties, as for broths, extracts, etc., should be put to cook in 
cold water. Foods to be kept intact as nearly as may be, 
should be put to cook in boiling water. 

Hot and cold water act differently upon the different food 
elements. Starch is but slightly acted upon by cold water. 



COOKERY. 53 

When starch is added to several times its bulk of hot water, all 
the starch granules burst on approachins^^ the boiling point, and 
swell to such a degree as to occupy nearly the whole volume of 
the water, forming a pasty mass. Sugar is dissolved readily in 
either hot or cokl water. Cold water extracts albumen. Hot 
water coagulates it. 

Steaviiiig, as its name implies, is the cooking of food by the 
use of steam. There are several ways of steaming, the most 
common of which is by placing the food in a perforated dish 
over a vessel of boiling Avater. For foods not needing the solvent 
powers of water, or which already contain a large amount of 
moisture, this method is preferable to boiling. Another form 
of cooking, which is usually termed steaming, is that of placing 
the food, with or without water, as needed, in a closed vessel 
which is placed inside another vessel containing boiling water. 
Such an apparatus is termed a double boiler. Food cooked in 
its own juices in a covered dish in a hot oven, is sometimes 
spoken of as being steamed or smothered. 

Stewing is the prolonged cooking of food in a small quantity 
of liquid, the temperature of which is just below the boiling 
point. Stewing should not be confounded with simmering, 
which is slow, steady boiling. The proper temperature for 
stewing is most easily secured by the use of the double boiler. 
The water in the outer vessel boils, while that in the inner vessel 
does not, being kept a little below the temperature of the water 
from Avhich its heat is obtained, by the constant evaporation at 
a temperature a little below the boiling point. 

Frying, which is the cooking of food in hot fat, is a method 
not to be recommended. Unlike all the other food elements, 
fat is rendered less digestible by cooking. Doubtless it is for 
this reason that nature has provided those foods which require 
the most prolonged cooking to fit them for use with only a 
small proportion of fat, and it would seem to indicate that any 
food to be subjected to a high degree of heat should not be 
mixed and compounded largely of fats. The ordinary way of 
frying, which the French call santeing, is by the use of only a little 
fat in a shallow pan, into which the food is put and cooked first 



54 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

on one side and then the other. Scarcely anything could be 
more unwholesome than food prepared in this manner. A 
morsel of food encrusted with fat remains undigested in the 
stomach because fat is not acted upon by the gastric juice, and 
its combination with the other food elements of which the 
morsel is composed interferes with their digestion also. If such 
foods are habitually used, digestion soon becomes slow and the 
gastric juice so deficient in quantity that fermentation and putre- 
factive changes are occasioned, resulting in serious disturbance 
of health. In the process of frying, the action of the heat par- 
tially decomposes the fat ; in consequence, various poisonous 
substances are formed, highly detrimental to the digestion of the 
partaker of the food. 

Adding Foods to Boiling Liquids. — ^Much of the sod- 
denne'ss of improperly cooked foods might be avoided, if the 
following facts were kept in mind : — 

When vegetables, or other foods of ordinary tempera- 
ture, are put into boiling water, the temperature of the water 
is lowered in proportion to the quantity and the tempera- 
ture of the food thus introduced, and will not again boil until the 
mass of food shall have absorbed more heat from the fire. The 
result of this is that the food is apt to become more or less 
water-soaked before the process of cooking begins. This diffi- 
culty may be avoided by introducing but small quantities of 
the food at one time, so as not to greatly lower the temperature 
of the liquid, and then allowing the latter to boil between the 
introduction of each fresh supply, or by heating the food before 
adding it to the liquid. 

Evaporation is another principle often overlooked in the 
cooking of food, and many a sauce or gravy is spoiled because 
the liquid, heated in a shallow pan, from which evaporation is 
rapid, loses so much in bulk that the amount of thickening 
requisite for the given quantity of fluid, and which, had less 
evaporation occurred, would have made it of the proper consis- 
tency, makes the sauce thick and unpalatable. Evaporation is 
much less, in slow boiling, than in more rapid cooking. 

Measuring. — One of the most important principles to be 
observed in the preparation of food for cooking, is accuracy in 



COOKERY. 55 

measuring. Many an excellent recipe proves a failure simply 
from lack of care in this respect. Measures are generally more 
convenient than weights, and are more commonly used. The 
common kitchen cup, which holds a half pint, is the one usually 
taken as the standard ; if any other size is used, the ingredients 
for the entire recipe should be measured by the same. The 
following points should be observed in measuring: — 

1. The teaspoons and tablespoons to be used in measuring, 
are the silver spoons in general use. 

2. Any material like flour, sugar, salt, that has been packed, 
should either be sifted or stirred up lightly before measuring. 

3. A cupful of dry material is measured level with the top 
of the cup, without being packed down. 

4. A cupful of liquid is all the cup will contain without 
running over. Hold the cup in a saucer while measuring, to 
prevent spilling the liquid upon the floor or table. 

Comparative Table of Weights and Measures. — The 
following comparative table of weights and measurements will 
aid in estimating different materials : — 

One heaping tablespoonful of sugar weighs one ounce. 

Two round tablespoonfuls of flour weigh one ounce. 

Two cupfuls of granulated sugar weigh one pound. 

Two cupfuls of meal weigh one pound. 

Four cupfuls of sifted flour weigh one pound. 

One pint of oatmeal, cracked wheat, or other coarse grains, 
weighs about one pound. 

One pint of liquid weighs one pound. 

One pint of meat chopped and packed solid weighs one 
pound. 

Seven heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar = one cupful. 

Five heaping tablespoonfuls of flour = one cupful. 

Two cupfuls of liquid or dry material = one pint. 

Four cupfuls of liquid or dry material= one quart. 

Mixing Materials. ^ — In the compounding of recipes, vari- 
ous modes are employed for mingling together the different 
ingredients, chief of which are stirring, beating, and kneading. 

By stirring is meant a continuous motion round and round 
with a spoon, without lifting it from the mixture, except to 



56 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

scrape occasionally from the sides of the dish any portion of 
the material that may cling to it. It is not necessary that the 
stirring should be all in one direction, as many cooks suppose. 
The object of the stirring is to thoroughly blend the ingredi- 
ents, and this may be accomplished as well bj' stirring in one 
direction as in another. 

Beating- is for the purpose of incorporating as much air in 
the mixture as possible. It should be done by dipping the 
spoon in and out, cutting clear through and lifting from the 
bottom with each stroke. The process must be continuous, 
and must never be interspersed with any stirring if it is desired 
to retain the air within the mixture. 

Kneading is the mode by which materials already in the 
form of dough are more thoroughly blended together ; it also 
serves to incorporate air. The process is more fully described 
in the chapter on " Bread." 

Temperature. — Many a cook fails and knows not why, be- 
cause she does not understand the influence of temperature 
upon materials and food. Flour and liquids for unfermented 
breads cannot be too cold, while for bread prepared with yeast, 
success is largely dependent upon a warm and equable tem- 
perature throughout the entire process. 

Cooking Utensils. — The earliest cookery was probably ac- 
complished without the aid of any utensils, the food being 
roasted by burying it in hot ashes or cooked by the aid of 
heated stones ; but modern cookery necessitates the use of a 
greater or less variety of cooking utensils to facilitate the prep- 
aration of food, most of which are so familiar to the reader as 
to need no description. (A list of those needed for use will be 
found on page 66.) Most of these utensils are manufactured from 
some kind of metal, as iron, tin, copper, brass, etc. All metals 
are dissolvable in certain substances, and some of those em- 
ployed for making household utensils are capable of forming 
most poisonous compounds when used for cooking certain 
foods. This fact should lead to great care on the part of the 
housewife, both in purchasing and in using utensils for cooking 
purposes. 



COOKERY. 57 

Iron utensils, although they arc, when new, apt to dis- 
color and impart a disagreeable flavor to food cooked in them, 
are not objectionable from a health standpoint, if kept clean 
and free from rust. Iron rust is the result of the combination 
of the iron with oxygen, for which it has so great an affinity 
that it will decompose water to get oxygen to unite with ; hence 
it is that iron utensils rust so qu-ickly when not carefully dried 
after using, or if left where they can collect moisture. This is 
the reason why a coating of tallow, which serves to exclude the 
air and moisture, will preserve ironware not in daily use from 
rusting. 

"Porcelain ware" is iron lined with a hard, smooth enamel, 
and makes safe and very desirable cooking utensils. German 
porcelain ware is unexcelled for culinary purposes. 

"Granite ware" is a material quite recently come into use, 
the composition of which is a secret, although pronounced by 
eminent chemists to be free from all injurious qualities. Uten- 
sils made from it are light in weight, easily kept clean, and for 
most cooking purposes, are far superior to those made from 
any other material. 

What is termed "galvanized iron" is unsuitable for cook- 
ing utensils, it being simply sheet iron coated with zinc, an 
exceedingly unsafe metal to be used for cooking purposes. 

Tin, \\hich is simply thin sheet iron coated with tin by dip- 
ping several times into vats of the melted metal, is largely 
employed in the manufacture of cooking utensils. Tinware is 
acted upon by acids, and when used for holding or cooking any 
acid foods, like sour milk, sour fruits, tomatoes, etc., harm- 
ful substances are liable to be formed, varying in quantity 
and harmfulness with the nature of the acid contained in 
the food. 

In these daj's of fraud and adulteration, nearly all the 
cheaper grades of tinware contain a greater or less amount of 
lead in their composition, which owing to its greater abun- 
dance and less price, is used as an adulterant of tin. Lead 
is also used in the solder with which the parts of tinware 
are united. The action of acids upon lead form very poison- 



58 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

ous compounds, and all lead-adulterated utensils should be 
wholly discarded for cooking purposes. 

Test for Lead- Adulterated Tin. — Place upon the metal a 
small drop of nitric acid, spreading it to the size of a dime, dry 
with gentle heat, apply a drop of water, then add a small crystal 
of iodide of potash. If lead is present, a yellowish color will be 
seen very soon after the addition of the iodide. Lead glazing, 
which is frequently employed on crockery and ironware in the 
manufacture of cooking utensils, may also be detected in the 
same manner. 

Cooking utensils made of copper are not to be recommended 
from the point of healthfulness, although many cooks esteem 
them because copper is a better conductor of heat than iron or 
tin. The acids of man}^ fruits combine with copper to form 
extremely poisonous substances. Fatty substances, as well as 
salt and sugar, act upon copper to a greater or less degree, also 
vegetables containing sulphur in their composition, and pro- 
duce harmful compounds. 

Utensils made of brass, which is a compound of copper and 
zinc, are not safe to use for cooking purposes. 



t 




TABLE TOPICS. 



Bad cooking diminishes happiness and shortens life. — Wisdom of As^es. 

Says Mrs. Partington : " Many a fair home has been desiccated by poor cooking, 
and a man's table has been the rock on which his happiness has split." 

Significant F.\ct. — Lady — "Have you had much experience as a cook?" 
Applicant — "Oh, indeed I have. I was the cook of Mr. and Mrs. I'eterby for 
three years." 

Z. — " Why did you leave them ? " 

A. — "I didn't leave them. They left me. They both died." 

Z._"Whatof?" 

A. — " Dyspepsia." 

Cooking is generally bad because people fall into routine ; hal)it dulls their appre- 
ciation, and they do not think about what they are eating. — Didslniry. 

ZzV/j' (Secretary of the cooking class) — " Now, girls, we've learned nine cakes, 
two kinds of angel food, and seven pies. What next ? " 

Sttsie (engaged) — " Dick's father says I must learn to bake bread." 
Indignant choms — " Bread ? How absurd ! What are bakers for ? '' 

It is told of Philip Hecgnet, a French physician who lived in the 17th century, 
that when calling upon his wealthy patients, he used often to go to the kitchen and 
pantry, embrace the cooks and butlers, and exhort them to do their duty well. " I 
owe you so much gratitude, my dear friends," he would say ; " you are so useful to us 
doctors ; for if you did not keep on poisoning the people, we should all have to go to 
the poorhouse." 

There are innumerable books of recipes for cooking, but unless the cook is master 
of the principles of his art, and unless he knows the why and the wherefore of its 
processes, he cannot choose a recipe intelligently and execute it successfully. — 
Richard Estcom-t. 

They who provide the food for the world, decide the health of the world. You 
have only to go on some errand amid the taverns and the hotels of the United States 
and Great Britain, to appreciate the fact that a vast multitude of the human race 
are slaughtered by incompetent cookery. Though a young woman may have taken 
lessons in music, and may have taken lessons in painting, and lessons in astronomy, 
she is not well educated unless she has taken lessons in dough ! — Talmage. 

[59] 




'T is a mistake to suppose that any room, however small 
and unpleasantly situated, is "good enough" for a kitchen. 
This is the room where housekeepers pass a great portion 
^ of their time, and it should be one of the brightest and most 
convenient rooms in the house ; for upon the results of no other 
department of woman's domain depend so greatly the health 
and comfort of the family as upon those involved in this 
'■ household workshop." The character of a person's work is 
more or less dependent upon his surroundings, hence is it to be 
greatly wondered at that a woman immured in a small, close, 
dimly-lighted room, whose only outlook may be the back alley 
or the woodshed, supplies her household with products far 
below the standard of health and housewifely skill ? 

Every kitchen should have windows on two sides of the 
room, and the sun should have free entrance through them ; 
the windows should open from the top to alloAV a complete 
change of air, for light and fresh air are among the chief essen- 
tials to success in all departments of the household. Good 
[60] 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 6 1 

drainac^c should also be provided, and the ventilation of the 
kitchen ought to be even more carefully attended to than that of 
a sleeping room. The ventilation of the kitchen should be so 
ample as to thoroughly remove all gases and odors, which, to- 
gether with steam from boiling and other cooking i^rocesses, 
generally invade and render to some degree unhealthful every 
other portion of the house. It is the steam from the kitchen 
which gives a fusty odor to the parlor air and provides a wet- 
sheet pack for the occupant of the " spare bed." The only way 
of wholly eradicating this evil, is the adoption of the suggestion 
of the sanitary philosopher who places the kitchen at the top 
of the house. 

To lessen the discomforts from heat, a ventilator may be 
placed above the range, that shall carry out of the room all supcr- 
lluous heat, and aid in removing the steam and odors from cook- 
ing food. The simplest form of such a ventilator is an inverted 
hopper of sheet iron fitted above the range, the upper and 
smaller end opening into a large flue adjacent to the smoke flue 
for the range. Care must be taken, however, to provide an am- 
ple ventilating shaft for this purpose, since a strong draft is 
required to secure the desired results. 

There should be ample space for tables, chairs, range, sink, 
and cupboards, yet the room should not be so large as to neces- 
sitate too many steps. A very good si/e for the ordinary 
dwelling is i6 x [8 feet. 

Undoubtedly much of the distaste for, and neglect of, "house- 
work," so often deplored in these days, arises from unpleasant 
surroundings. If the kitchen be light, air}-, and tidy, and the 
utensils bright and clean, the work of compounding those 
articles of food which grace the table and satisfy the appetite 
will be a pleasant task, and one entirely worthy of the most 
intelligent and cultivated woman. 

It is desirable, from a sanitary standpoint, that the kitchen 
floor be made impervious to moisture ; hence, concrete or tile 
floors are better than wooden floors. If wooden floors are 
used, they should be constructed of narrow boards of hard 
wood, carefully joined and thoroughly saturated with hot linseed 
oil, well rubbed in to give polish to the surface. 



62 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Cleanliness is the great dcsideratiiui, and this can be best at- 
tained by having- all woodwork in and about the kitchen coated 
with varnish ; substances which cause stain and grease spots, 
do not penetrate the wood when varnished, and can be easily 
removed with a damp cloth. Paint is preferable to whitewash or 
calcimine for the walls, since it is less affected by steam, and can 
be more readily cleaned. A carpet on a kitchen floor is as out 
of place as a kitchen sink would be in a parlor. 

The elements of beauty should not be lacking in the kitchen. 
Pictures and fancy articles are inappropriate ; but a few pots of 
easily-cultivated flowers on the window ledge or arranged upon 
brackets about the window in winter, and a window box 
arranged as 2ijardinilre, with vines and blooming plants in sum- 
mer, will greatly brighten the room, and thus serve to lighten 
the task of those whose daily labor confines them to the pre- 
cincts of the kitchen. 

The Kitchen Furniture.— The ^rniture for a kitchen 
should not be cumbersome, and should be so made and dressed 
as to be easily cleaned. There should be plenty of cupboards, 
and each for the sake of order, should be devoted to a special 
purpose. Cupboards with sliding doors are much superior to 
closets. They should be placed upon casters so as to be easily 
moved, as they are thus not only more convenient, but admit 
of more thorough cleanliness. 

Cupboards used for the storage of food should be well ven- 
tilated ; otherwise, they furnish choice conditions for the de- 
velopment of mold and germs. Movable cupboards may be 
ventilated by means of openings in the top, and doors covered 
with very fine wire gauze which will admit the air but keep out 
flies and dust. All stationary cupboards and closets should 
have a ventilating flue connected with the main shaft by which 
the house is ventilated, or directly communicating with the 
outer air. 

No kitchen can be regarded as well furnished without a good 
timepiece as an aid to punctuality and economy of time. An 
eight-day clock with large dial and plain case is the most 
suitable. 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 



63 



Every kitchen should also be provided with a slate, with 
sponge and pencil attached, on one side of which the market 
orders and other memoranda may be jotted down, and on the 
other the bills of fare for the day or week. In households where 
servants are kept, the slate will save many a vexatious blunder 
and unnecessary call to the kitchen, wdiile if one is herself mis- 
tress, cook, and housekeeper, it may prove an invaluable aid 
and time-saver if thus used. 

Lack of sufficient table room is often a great source of 
inconvenience to the housekeeiJer. To avoid this, arrange 




A Convenient Kitchen Tabic. 



swinging tables or shelves at convenient points upon the wall, 
which may be put up or let down as occasion demands. For 
ordinary kitchen uses, small tables of suitable height on easy- 
rolling casters, and with zinc tops, are the most convenient and 
most easily kept clean. It is quite as well that they be made 
without drawers, which are too apt to become receptacles for 
a heterogeneous mass of rubbish. If desirable to have some 
handy place for keeping articles which are frequently required 
for use, an arrangement similar to that represented in the ac- 
companying cut may be made at very small expense. It may 



64 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

be also an advantage to arrange small shelves about and above 
the range, on which may be kept various articles necessary for 
cooking purposes. 

Otie of the most indispensable articles of furnishing for a 
well-appointed kitchen is a sink ; however, a sink must be 
properly constructed and well cared for, or it is likely to be- 
come a source of great danger to the health of the inmates of 
the household. Earthen-ware is the best material for kitchen 
sinks. Iron is very serviceable, but corrodes, and if painted or 
enameled, this soon wears off. Wood is objectionable from a 
sanitary standpoint. A sink made of wood lined with copper 
answers well for a long time if properly cared for. 

The sink should if possible stand out from the wall, so as to 
allow free access to all sides of it for the sake of cleanliness, 
and under no circumstances should there be any inclosure of 
woodwork or cupboards underneath to serve as a storage place 
for pots and kettles and all kinds of rubbish, dust, and germs. 
It should be supported on legs, and the space below should be 
open for inspection at all times. The pipes and fixtures should 
be selected and placed by a competent plumber. 

Great pains should be taken to keep the pipes clean and 
well disinfected. Refuse of all kinds should be kept out. 
Thoughtless housekeepers and careless domestics often allow 
greasy water and bits of table waste to find their way into the 
pipes. Drain pipes usually have a bend, or trap, through which 
water containing no sediment flows freely ; but the melted 
grease which often passes into the pipes mixed with hot water, 
becomes cooled and solid as it descends, adhering to the pipes, 
and gradually accumulating until the drain is blocked, or the 
water passes through very slowly. A grease-lined pipe is a 
hotbed for disease germs. 

Water containjng much grease should be cooled and the 
grease removed before being turned into the kitchen sink, 
while bits of refuse should be disposed of elsewhere, since pre- 
vention of mischief is in this case, as in most others, far easier 
than cure. It is customary for housekeepers to pour a hot 
solution of soda or potash do\Yn the sink pipes occasionally, to 



THK HOUSEHOr.D WORKSHOP. 6$ 

dissolve any grease which may tend to obstruct the passage ; 
but this is only a partial safeguard, as there is no certainty that 
all the grease will be dissolved, and any particles adhering to 
the pipes very soon undergo putrefaction. 

A frequent flushing with hot water is important ; besides 
which the pipes should be disinfected two or three times a 
week by pouring down a gallon of water holding in solution a 
pound of good chloride of lime. 

Stoves and Ranges. — The furnishing of a modern kitchen 
would be quite incomplete without some form of stove or range 
The multiplicity of these articles, manufactured each with 
some especial merit of its own, renders it a somewhat diffi- 
cult task to make a choice among them. Much must, how- 
ever, depend upon the kind of fuel to be used, the size of the 
household, and various other circumstances which make it 
necessary. for each individual housekeeper to decide for herself 
what is best adapted to her wants. It may be said, in brief, 
that economy of fuel, simplicity of construction, and efficiency 
in use arc the chief points to be considered in the selection 
of stoves and ranges. 

A stove or range of plain finish is to be preferred, because it 
is much easier t-o keep clean, and will be likely to present a 
better appearance after a few months' wear than one of more 
elaborate pattern. But whatever stove or range is selected, its 
mechanism should be thoroughly understood in every particu- 
lar, and it should be tested with dampers open, with dampers 
closed, and in every possible way, until one is perfectly sure she 
understands its action under all conditions. 

Oil and Gas Stoves. — In many households, oil, gas, and 
gasoline stoves have largely taken the place of the kitchen 
range, especially during the hot weather of summer. They can 
be used for nearly every purpose for which a wood or a coal 
range is used ; they require much less labor and litter, and can 
be instantly started into full force and as quickly turned out 
when no longer required, while the fact that the heat can be 
regulated with exactness, makes them superior for certain proc- 
esses of cooking to any other stove. But while these stoves 
5 



66 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN, 

are convenient and economical, especially in small families, they 
should be used with much care. Aside from the danger from 
explosion, which is by no means inconsiderable in the use of 
gasoline and oil stoves, they are not, unless well cared, for alto- 
gether healthful. Unless the precaution is taken to use them 
in well-ventilated rooms or to connect them with a chimney, 
they vitiate the atmosphere to a considerable extent with the 
products of combustion. Oil stoves, unless the wicks are kept 
well trimmed, are apt to smoke, and this smoke is not only dis- 
agreeable, but extremely irritating to the mucous membrane of 
the nose and throat. Oil stoves are constructed on the same 
principle as ordinary oil lamps, and require the same care and 
attention. 

Quite recently there has been invented by Prof. Edward 
Atkinson a very unique apparatus for cooking by means of the 
heat of an ordinary kerosene lamp, called the "Aladdin Cooker.' 
The food to be cooked is placed in a chamber around which hot 
water, heated by the flame of the lamp, circulates. The uni- 
form heat thus obtained performs the process of cooking, 
slowly, but most satisfactorily and economically, the result 
being far superior to that obtained by the ordinary method of 
cooking by quick heat. The cooker is only used for stewing 
and steaming ; but Mr. Atkinson has also invented an oven in 
which the heat is conveyed to the place where it is needed by 
a column of hot air instead of hot water. With this oven, which 
consists of an outer oven made of non-conducting material, and 
an inner oven made of sheet iron, with an intervening space 
between, through which the hot air circulates, no smoke or 
odor from the lamp can reach the interior. • 

Kitchen Utensils. — The list of necessary kitchen utensils 
must of course be governed somewhat by individual circum- 
stances, but it should not be curtailed for the sake of display 
in some other department, Avhere less depends upon the results. 
A good kitchen outfit is one of the foundation-stones of good 
housekeeping. The following are some of the most essential : — 

Two dish pans ; two or more papier uiache tubs for. washing 
glassware ; one kneading board ; one bread board ; one pair 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 



^7 




A Double Boiler. 



scales, with weights ; scrubbing and stove brushes ; brooms ; 
dustpans ; roller for towel ; washbowl ; soap dish ; vegetable 
brushes. 

For the Tin Closet. — One dipper; one egg-beater; one 
two-quart pail ; one four-quart pail ; six brick-loaf bread pans ; 
three shallow tins ; three granite-ware pie tins ; two perfo- 
rated sheet iron pans for rolls, etc. ; one set of measures, pint, 
quart, and two-quart ; two colanders ; two fine wire strainers ; 
one flour sifter ; one apple corer ; one set 
patty-pans ; two dripping-pans ; two 
sets gem irons ; one set muffin-rings ; 
one toaster ; one broiler ; six saucepans, 
different sizes ; two steamers ; six milk- 
pans ; one dozen basins, different sizes ; 
one chopping bowl and knife ; six double 
boilers ; two funnels, large and small ; 

one can-opener ; griddle ; kettles, iron and granite ware ; two 
water baths. 

For the Dish Closet. — One half dozen iron-stone china 
cups ; three quart bowls ; three pint bowls ; two large mixing 
bowls ; two two-quart bowls with lip ; six deep plates ; three 
kitchen pitchers ; one glass rolling-pin ; six wooden and six iron 
spoons, assorted sizes ; six kitchen teaspoons ; one stone bak- 
ing pot ; glass jars for stores ; crocks and jars. 

The Pantry. — The pantry and china closet should have 
direct light and good ventilation. The dark, dingy places some- 
times used for this purpose are germ-breeders. There should 
be plenty of shelf room and cupboards for the finer glass and 
china-ware, with a well-arranged sink for washing the dishes. 
The sink for this purpose is preferably one lined with tinned or 
planished copper ; for dishes will be less liable to become injured 
and broken than when washed in an iron or earthen-ware sink. 
Extension or folding shelves are a great convenience, and can 
be arranged for the sink if desired. The accompanying cuts 
illustrate a sink of four compartments for dish-washing, devised 
by the writer for use in the Sanitarium Domestic Economy 
kitchen, which can be closed and used as a table. Two zinc 



68 



SCIENCE IX THE KITCHEN. 



trays fit the top, upon which to place the dish drainers. If pre- 
ferred, the top might be arranged as a drainer, by making it of 
well-seasoned hard wood, with a number of inclined grooves to 
allow the water to run into the sink. If the house be heated 
by steam, a platc-warmcr is an important part of the pantry 
furnishing. 

The Storeroom. — If possible to do so, locate the room 
for the keeping of the kitchen su})plies on the cool side of the 
house. Plenty of light, good ventilation, and absolute cle^nli- 




Comixutmciil Sink for Disli-W'asliing. Open. 



ness are essential, as the slightest contamination of air is likely 
to render the food supply unfit for use. 

The refrigerator should not be connected with the kitchen 
drain pipe, and the greatest care should bo taken to keep it 
clean and sweet. It should be thoroughly scrubbed with borax 
or sal soda and water, and well aired, at least once a week. 
Strongly flavored foods and milk should not be kept in the 
same refrigerator. The ice to be used should ahvaj-s be care- 
fully A\'ashed before putting in the refrigerator. Care should also 
be taken to replenish it before the previous supply is entirely 
melted, as the temperature rises when the ice becomes low, 
and double the quantity will be required to cool the refrigera- 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP 



69 



tor that would be necessary to keep it of uniform temperature 
if added before the ice was entirely out. 

The Water Supply. — The water used for drinking and 
cooking purposes should receive equal consideration with the 
food supply, and from whatever source obtained, it should 
be frequently tested for impurities, since that which looks the 
most refreshing may be contaminated with organic poison of 
the most treacherous character. 

A good and simple test solution, which any housewife can 
use, may be prepared by dissolving twelve grains of caustic 




C<jiii[(arlriicMt Sink for Dish-Washing. Closed, 



potash and three of permanganate of potash in an ounce of 
distilled water, or filtered soft water. Add a drop of this solu- 
tion to a glass of the water to be tested. If the pink color 
imparted by the solution disappears at once, add another drop 
of the solution, and continue adding drop by drop until the 
pink color will remain for half an hour or more. The amount 
of the solution necessary to secure a permanent color is a very 
fair index to the quality of the water. If the color imparted 
by the first one or two drops disappears within a half hour, 
the water should be rejected as probably dangerous. Water 
which is suspected of being impure may be rendered safe by 
boiling. Filters are only of service in removing suspended 



70 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

particles and the unpleasant taste of rain water ; a really dan- 
gerous water is not rendered safe by filtering in the ordinary 
manner. 

Cellars. — Sanitarians tell us that cellars should never be 
built under dwelling houses. Because of improper construction 
and neglect, they are undoubtedly the cause of much disease 
and many deaths. A basement beneath the house is advanta- 
geous, but the greatest of care should be given to construct it 
in accord with sanitary laws. It should be thoroughly drained 
that there may be no source of dampness, but should not be 
connected with a sewer or a cesspool. It should have walls so 
made as to be impervious to air and water. An ordinary brick 
or stone wall is inefficient unless well covered with good Port- 
land cement polished smooth. The floors should likewise be 
covered with cement, otherwise the cellar is likely to be filled 
with impure air derived from the soil, commonly spoken of as 
" ground air," and which offers a constant menace to the health 
of those who live over cellars with uncemented walls and floors. 

Light and ventilation are quite as essential to the health- 
fulness of a cellar as to other rooms of the dwelling. Constantly 
during warm weather, and at least once a day during the 
winter season, windows should be opened Avide, thus effecting 
a free interchange of air. All mold and mustiness should be 
kept out b)' thorough ventilation and frequent coats of white- 
wash to the walls. Vegetables and other decomposable articles, 
if stored in the basement, should be frequently sorted, and all 
decaying substances promptly removed. This is of the utmost 
importance, since the germs and foul gases arising from de- 
composing food stuffs form a deadly source of contamination to 
the air of the living rooms above, to which it ascends through 
every crack and crevice. 

KITCHEN CONVENIENCES. 

In these days of invention and progress, much thought and 
ingenuity have been expended in making and perfecting labor- 
saving articles and utensils, which serve to make housework 
less of a bu-rden and more of a delight. 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSIIOI' 



71 




The Steam-Cooker. 



The Steam=Cooker.— One of the most unique of these con- 
veniences is the steam-cooker, one kind of which is illustrated 

by the accompanying cut. Steam- 
ing is, for many foods, a most eco- 
nomical and satisfactory method of 
cooking". Especially is this true 
respecting fruits, grains, and vege- 
tables, the latter of which often 
have the larger proportion of their 
best nutritive elements dissolved 
and thrown away in the Avater in 
u hicli they are boiled. In the ma- 
jority of households it is, however, 
the method least depended upon, 
because the ordinary steamer over 
a pot of boiling water requires too much attention, takes up too 
much stove room, and creates too much steam in the kitchen, 
to prove a general favorite. The steam-cooker has an escape- 
steam tube througli which all excess of steam and odors 
passes into the fire, and thus its different Cf)mpartments may 
contain and cook an 
entire d i n n e r , if 
need be, and over 
one stove-hole or 
one burner of an oil 
or a gasoline stove. 
The Vejvetable 
Press. — The accom- 
panying cut repre- 
sents this li an d y 
utensil, w h i c h is 
equally useful as a 
potato and vegeta- 
ble masher ; a s a 

sauce, gruel, and gravy strainer ; as a fruit press, and for many 
other purposes for which a colander or strainer is needed, while 
it economizes both time and labor. 




Vegetable Press. 



72 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 




Lemon Drill. 



Lemon Drill. — This little article for extracting- the juice 
of the lemon, and which can be purchased of most hardware 
dealers, is quite superior to the more commonly used lemon- 
squeezer. Being made of glass, its 
use is not open to the danger that 
the use of metal-squeezers are from 
poisonous combinations of the acid 
and metal, while the juice extracted 
is free from pulp, seeds, and the oil 
of the skin. 

A Handy Waiter. — In many 
households where no help is employed, a labor-saving device, 
like the one represented in the accompanying illustration, will 
be found of great service. It is a light double table on easy- 
rolling casters, and can be readily constructed by any one 
handy in the use of tools. If preferred, the top may be covered 
with zinc. In setting or clearing the table, the dishes may be 
placed on the lower shelf, with the food on the top, and the 
table rolled from pantry to dining-room, and from dining-room 
to kitchen ; thus accomplishing, with one trip, what is ordina- 
rily done with hundreds of steps by 
the weary housewife. If desirable 
to reset the table at once after a 
meal, the waiter will be found most 
serviceable as a place whereon the 
glassware and silverware may be 
washed. It is equally serviceable 
for holding the utensils and mate- 
rial needed when cooking ; being 
so easily moved, it can be rolled 
to the stove and is always con- 
venient. 

Wall Cabinet. — Where cupboard space is limited, or where 
for convenience it is desirable to have some provision for sup- 
plies and utensils near the range and baking table, a wall cabi- 
net offers a most convenient arrangement. It may be made 
of a size to fit into any convenient niche, and constructed 




The Handy Waiter. 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 



73 



plainly or made as ornamental as one pleases, with doors to ex- 
clude the dust, shelves on which to keep tin cans filled with rice, 
oatmeal, cracked wheat, and other grains ; glass jars of raisins, 
sugar, citron, cornstarch, etc ; hooks on which may hang the 
measures, egg-beater, potato masher, and such frequently needed 




utensils ; and with drawers for paring knives, spoons, and similar 
articles, the wall cabinet becomes a multufn in paj'vo of conveni- 
ence which would greatly facilitate work in many households. 
Percolate!' Holder. — The accompanying cut illustrates an 
easily-constructed device for holding a jelly bag or percolater. 
It may be so made as to be easily screwed to any ordinary 



u 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



table, and will save the housekeeper far more than its cost in 
time and patience. 

Kneading Table. — Much of the tiresome labor of bread- 
making can be avoided if one is supplied with some convenient 
table similar to the one represented in the 

r' yD cut, wherein the needed material and uten- 

/7\\ sils may be kept in readiness at all times. 

The table illustrated has two large tin 
drawers, each divided into two compart- 
ments, in which may be kept corn meal, 
entire wheat, and Graham and white flours. 
Two drawers above provide a place for 
rolling-pin, bread mallet, gem irons, spoons, 
etc., Avhile a narrow compartment just be- 
neath the hardwood top affords a place for the kneading board. 
The table being on casters is easily moved to any part of 
the kitchen for use. 

Dish=Towel Rack.^ Nothing adds more to the ease and 
facility with which the frequent dish-washings of the household 
may be accomplished than clean, well-dried towels. For quick 




Percolator Holder. 




Kneading Table. 



THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 



75 



drying, — an item of great importance if one would keep the 
towels fresh and sweet, — the towel rack represented in the cut, 
and which can be made by any carpenter, is a most handy 
device. When not in use, it can be turned up against the wall 




)ish-To\vel Rack. 



as illustrated. It is light, affords sufficient drying space so that 
no towel need be hung on top of another, and projecting out 
from the wall as it does, the free circulation of air between the 
towels soon dries them. 

Kitchen Brushes. — These useful little articles can be put 
to such a variety of uses that they are among the chiefest of 



'j6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

household conveniences. They are also so inexpensive, cost- 
ing but five cents apiece Avithout handles and seven cents with 
handles, that no housewife can afford to be without a supply 
of them. For the washing of dishes with handles, the outside 
of iron kettles, and other cooking utensils made of iron, they 
are especially serviceable. The smaller sizes are likewise ex- 
cellent for cleaning cutglass ware. Majolica ware, — in fact, any 
kind of ware with raised figures or corrugated surfaces. For 
cleaning a grater, nothing is superior to one of these little 
brushes. Such a brush is also most serviceable for washing 
celery, as the corrugated surface of the stalk makes a thorough 
cleaning with the hands a difficult operation. Then if one uses 
a brush with handle, ice water, which 
adds to the crispness of the celery, may 
be used for the cleaning, as there will 
be no necessity fo,r putting the hands in 
Ves^etabie Brush. Water. A Small whisk broom is also val- 

uable for the same purpose. Such vege- 
tables as potatoes, turnips, etc., are best cleaned with a brush. 
It makes the work less disagreeable, as the hands need not be 
soiled by the process, and in no other way can the cleaning be 
so well and thoroughly done. 

All brushes after being used should be carefully scalded and 
placed brush dowuAvard in a wire sponge basket, or hung up on 
hooks. If left around carelessl)', they soon acquire the musty 
smell of a neglected dishcloth. 




^- 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The kitchen is a chemical laboratory, in which arc conductetl a number of chem- 
ical processes by which our food is converted from its crude state tu a condition more 
suitable for digestion and nutrition, and made more agreeable to the palate. — P>'i'f. 
Mat tic II ] Villi mils. 

Half the trouble between mistresses and maids arises from the disagreeable sur- 
roundings to which servants are conlined. There is no place more dismal than the 
ordinary kitchen in city dwellings. It is half underground, ill-lighted, and unwhole- 
some. What wonder, then, in the absence of sunlight, there is a lack of sunny temper 
and cheerful service ? An ill-lighted kitchen is almost sure to be a dirty one, -where 
germs will thrive and multiply. Let sanitary kitchens be provided, and we shall have 
more patient mistresses and more willing servants. — Sel. 

A SLl.GtnsH housemaid exclaimed, when scolded for the uncleanliness of her 
kitchen, " I 'm sure the room would be clean enough if it were not for the nasty sun, 
which is always showing the dirty corners." — Scl. 

Ik we would look for ready hands and willing hearts in our kitchens, we should 
make them pleasant and inviting for those who literally bear the " burden and heat 
of the day " in this department of our homes, where, emphatically, " woman's work is 
never done." We should no longer be satisfied to locate our kitchens in the most un- 
desirable corner of the house. We should demand ample light, — sunshine if pos- 
sible, — and justly, too ; for the very light itself is inspiring to the worker. It will stir 
up cheer and breed content in the minds of those whose lot is cast in this work-a-day 
room. — Scl. 

Any invention on the part of the housekeeper intended to be a substitute for 
watchfulness, will prove a delusion and a snare. — Scl. 

"The first wealth is health," says Emerson. 

A KNOWLEDGE of Sanitary principles should be regarded as an essential part of 
every woman's education, and obedience to sanitary laws should be ranked, as it was 
in the Mosaic code, as a religious duty. — Scl. 

]\It'CH of the air of the house comes from the cellar. A heated house acts like a 
chimney. A German experimenter states that one half of the cellar air makes its 
way into the first story, one third into the second, and one fifth into the third. 




-i^^lEREAL is the name s^iven to those seeds used as 
MjBr food (wheat, rye, oats, barley, corn, rice, etc.), which are 
MvMl produced by plants belonging to the vast order known 



^AP '• as the grass family. They are used for food both in 
the unground state and in various forms of mill products. 

The grains are pre-eminently nutritious, and when well 
prepared, easily digested foods. In composition they are all 
similar, but variations in their constituent elements and the 
relative amounts of these various elements, give them dif- 
ferent degrees of alimentary value. They each contain one or 
more of the nitrogenous elements, — gluten, albumen, caseine, 
and fibrin, — together with starch, dextrine, sugar, and fatty 
matter, and also mineral elements and woody matter, or cel- 
lulose. The combined nutritive value of the grain foods is 
nearly three times that of beef, mutton, or poultry. As regards 
the proportion of the food elements necessary to meet the 
various requirements of the system, grains approach more 
nearly the proper standard than most other foods ; indeed, 
[78] 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 79 

wheat contains exactly the correct proportion of the food 
elements. 

Being thus in themselves so nearly perfect foods, and when 
properly prepared, exceedingly palatable and easy of diges- 
tion, it is a matter of surprise that they are not more generally 
used ; yet scarcely one family in fifty makes any use of the 
grains, save in the form of flour, or an- occasional dish of rice or 
oatmeal. This use of grains is far too meager to adequately rep- 
resent their value as an article of diet. Variety in the use of 
grains is as necessary as in the use of other food material, and 
the numerous grain preparations now to be found in market 
render it quite possible to make this class of foods a staple 
article of diet, if so desired, without their becoming at all 
monotonous. 

In olden times the grains were largely depended upon as a 
staple food, and it is a fact well authenticated by history that 
the highest condition of man has always been associated with 
wheat-consuming nations. The ancient Spartans, whose powers 
of endurance are proverbial, were fed on a grain diet, and the 
Roman soldiers who under Caesar conquered the world, carried 
each a bag of parched grain in his pocket as his daily ration. 

Other nationalities at the present time make extensive use of 
the various grains. Rice used in connection with some of the 
leguminous seeds, forms the staple article of diet for a large pro- 
portion of the human race. Rice, unlike the other grain foods, 
is deficient in the nitrogenous elements, and for this reason its 
use needs to be supplemented by other articles containing an 
excess of the nitrogenous material. It is for this reason, doubt- 
less, that the Hindoos use lentils, and the Chinese eat peas and 
beans in connection with rice. 

We frequently meet people who say they cannot use the 
grains, — that they do not agree with them. With all defer- 
ence to the opinion of such people, it may he stated that the 
difficulty often lies in the fact that the grain was either not 
properly cooked, not properly eaten, or not properly accom- 
panied. A grain, simply because it is a grain, is by no means 
warranted to faithfully fulfil its mission unless properly treated. 



80 ^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Like many another good thing excellent in itself, if found in 
bad company, it is prone to create mischief, and in many cases 
the root of the whole difficulty may be found in the excessive 
amoun-t of sugar used with the grain. 

Sugar is not needed with grains to increase their alimentary 
value. The starch which constitutes a large proportion of their 
food elements must itself be converted into sugar by the di- 
gestive processes before assimilation, hence the addition of 
cane sugar only increases the burden of the digestive organs, 
for the pleasure of the palate. The Asiatics, who subsist largely 
upon rice, use no sugar upon it, and Avhy should it be con- 
sidered ^requisite for the enjoyment of wheat, rye, oatmeal, 
barley, and other grains, any more than it is for our enjoy- 
ment of bread or other articles made from these same grains ? 
Undoubtedly the use of grains would become more universal 
if they were served with less or no sugar. The continued use 
of sugar upon grains has a tendency to cloy the appetite, just 
as the constant use of cake or sweetened bread in the place of 
ordinary bread would do. Plenty of nice, sweet cream or fruit 
juice, is a sufficient dressing, and there are few persons who 
after a short trial would not come to enjoy the grains without 
sugar, and would then as soon think of dispensing with a meal 
altogether as to dispense with the grains. 

Even when served without sugar, the grains may not prove al- 
together healthful unless they are properly eaten. Because they 
are made soft by the process of cooking and on this account do 
not require masticating to break them up, the first process of 
digestion or insalivation is usually overlooked. But it must be 
remembered that grains are largely composed of starch, and 
that starch must be mixed with the saliva, or it will remain 
undigested in the stomach, since the gastric juice only digests 
the nitrogenous elements. For this reason it is desirable to 
eat the grains in connection with some hard food. Whole- 
wheat wafers, nicely toasted to make them crisp and tender, 
toasted rolls, and unfermented zwieback, are excellent for this 
purpose. Break two or three wafers into rather small pieces 
over each individual dish before pouring on the cream. In 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 8 1 

this way, a morsel of the hard food may be taken with each 
spoonful of the grains. The combination of foods thus secured, 
is most pleasing. This is a specially advantageous method of 
serving grains for children, who are so liable to swallow their 
food without proper mastication. 

Cooking of Grains. — All grains, with the exception of rice, 
and the various grain meals, require prolonged cooking with 
gentle and continuous heat, in order to so disintegrate their 
tissues and change their starch into dextrine as to render 
them easy of digestion. Even the so-called "steam-cooked" 
grains, advertised to be ready for use in five or ten minutes, 
require a much longer cooking to properly fit them for diges- 
tion. These so-called quickly prepared grains are simply 
steamed before grinding, which has the effect to destroy any 
low organisms contained in the grain. They are then crushed 
and shredded. Bicarbonate of soda and lime is added to help 
dissolve the albuminoids, and sometimes diastase to aid the 
conversion of the starch into sugar ; but there is nothing in 
this preparatory process that so alters the chemical nature of 
the grain as to make it possible to cook it ready for easy diges- 
tion in five or ten minutes. An insufficiently cooked grain, 
although it may be palatable, is not in a condition to be readily 
acted upon by the digestive fluids, and is in 
consequence left undigested to act as a me- 
chanical irritant. 

For the proper cooking of grains the 
double boiler is the best and most convenient 
utensil for ordinary purposes. If one does ^ D^^^ie Boiler. 
not possess a double boiler, a very fair substi- 
tute may be improvised by using a covered earthen crock 
placed within a kettle of boiling water, or by using two pails, 
a smaller within a larger one containing boiling water. 

A closed steamer or steam-cooker is also valuable for the 
cooking of grains. Grains may be cooked in an ordinary kettle, 
but the difficulties to be encountered, in order to prolong the 
cooking sufficiently and prevent burning, make it the least 
desirable utensil for this purpose. 
6 




82 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



Water is the liquid usually employed for cooking grains, but 
many of them are richer and finer flavored when milk is mixed 
with the water, — one part to two of water. Especially is this 
true of rice, hominy, and farina. When water is used, soft 
water is preferable to hard. No salt is necessary, but if used 
at all, it is generally added to the water before stirring in the 
grain or meal. 

The quantity of liquid required varies with the different 
grains, the manner in which they are milled, the method by 
which they are cooked, and the consistency desired for the 
cooked grain, more liquid being required for a porridge than 
for a mush. The following table gives the time necessary for 
cooking and the quantity of liquid required for the various 
grains, with the exception of rice, when cooked in a double 
boiler or closed steamer, to produce a mush of ordinary con- 
sistency. If an ordinary kettle is used for cooking the grains, 
a larger quantity of water will be needed : — 



TABLE SHOV^ING PROPORTION OF GRAIN AND LIQUID 

REQUIRED, WITH APPROXIMATE TIME, WHEN 

A DOUBLE BOILER IS USED. 



Graham Grits. . . 
Rolled Wheat . . , 
Cracked " 
Pearl " 

Whole " . . 

Rolled Oats 

Coarse Oatmeal. 

Rolled Rye 

Pearl Barley .... 
Coarse Hominy.. 
Fine 
Cerealine 



Quantity of 


Water 


Hours to 


Grain. 


Required. 


Cook. 


I part 


4 parts 


3 to 5 






3 


3 to 4 






AYz " 


3 to 4 






4 


4 to 5 






s 


6 to 8 






3 


3 to 4 






4 " " 


4 to 6 






3 


3 to 4 






5 


4 to 5 






5 


6 to lo 






4 


4 to 6 



part 



All grains should be carefully looked over before being put 
to cook. 

In the cooking of grains, the following points should be 
observed : — 

T. Measure both liquid and grain accurately with the same 
utensil,, or with two of equal size 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 83 

2. Have the water boilinij when the grain is introduced, but 
do not allow it to boil for a long time previous, until it is con- 
siderably evaporated, as that will change the proportion of 
water and grain sufficiently to alter the consistency of the mush 
when cooked. Introduce the grain slowly, so as not to stop the 
boiling of the water, and let it boil rapidly until the grain ceases 
sinking to the bottom, and the whole becomes thickened. If 
the grain is cooked in a double boiler, this first boiling should be 
done with the inner dish directly over the fire, and when the 
grain has thickened or become " set," as it is termed, the 
dish should at once be placed in the outer boiler, the water 
in which should be boiling. It will then require no further care 
during the entire cooking, save to keep the outer boiler filled 
and the water boiling. If the grain is to be cooked in a steam- 
cooker, as soon as set it may be turned into a china or an 
earthen dish, suitable for use on the table, and placed at once 
in the steamer to complete the cooking. If an ordinary kettle 
is used, it is well to place it upon an iron ring or brick on some 
part of the range where it will just simmer, for the remainder 
of the cooking. 

3. Stir the grain continuously until it has set, but not at all 
afterward. Grains are much more appetizing if, while properly 
softened, they can still be made to retain their original form. 
Stirring renders the preparation pasty, and destroys its appear- 
ance. Grains cooked in a double boiler will require no stirring, 
and there will be little danger of their being lumpy, underdone 
on top, and scorched at the bottom, as is so often the case when 
cooked in a single boiler. 

4. Cook continuously. If it be necessary to replenish the 
water in the outer boiler at any time, let it be done with water 
of boiling temperature. If it is desired to have the mush 
quite thick and dry, the boiler should be left uncovered during 
the latter part of the cooking. If preferred moist, keep the 
cover on. 

In the preparation of all mushes with meal or flour, it is a 
good plan to make the material into a batter with a portion of 
the liquid retained from the quantity <i^iven, before introducing 



84 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

it into the boiling water. This prevents the tendency to 
cook in lumps, so frequent when dry meal is scattered into 
boiling liquid. Care must be taken, however, to add the moist- 
ened portion very slowly, stirring vigorously meantime, so that 
the boiling will not be checked. Use warm water for moist- 
ening. The other directions given for the whole or broken 
grains are applicable to the ground products. 

Grains for Breakfast. — -Since hasty preparation will not 
suffice for the grains, they cannot be conveniently cooked in 
the morning in time for breakfast. This difficulty may be 
obviated by cooking the day previous, and reheating in the 
following way : — 

Place the grain, when sufficiently cooked, in the refrigerator 
or in some place where it will cool quickly (as slow cooling 
might cause fermentation), to remain over night. If cooked in 
a porcelain-lined or granite-ware double boiler, it may be left 
undisturbed, if uncovered. If cooked in tin or iron, turn the 
grain into a large earthen or china dish. To heat in the morn- 
ing, fill the outer boiler with boiling water, place the inner dish 
containing the grain .therein, and steam till thoroughly heated. 
No stirring and no additional liquid will be necessary, and if 
placed upon the stove when beginning the preparations for 
breakfast, it will be ready for serving in good season. If the 
grain has been kept in an earthen dish, it may best be reheated 
by placing that inside a steam-cooker or an ordinary steamer 
over a kettle of boiling water. 

Cracked wheat, pearl wheat, oatmeal, and other coarse 
grain preparations to be reheated, require for cooking a half cup 
of water in addition to the quantity given in the table. For 
rolled wheat, rolled oats, rolled rye, and other crushed grains, 
no more is needed. Grains may be used for breakfast without 
reheating, if served with hot milk or cream. If one has an 
Aladdin oven, the problem of grains for breakfast may be easily 
solved by cooking them all night, and if started late in the 
evening, they may be thus cooked over a single-burner oil stove 
with the flame turned low. 




SOME ANCIENT MILLERS. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 85 

Grains an Economical Food. — While grains are pre-emi- 
nently among the most nutritious of foods, they are also among 
the most economical, the average price being from five to seven 
cents a pound, and even less when purchased in bulk. If it be 
objected that they require much fuel to secure the prolonged 
cooking necessary, we would say that a few cents' worth of oil 
a week and a small lamp stove will accomplish the cooking in a 
most efficient manner. For a hot-weather food there are few 
articles which give greater satisfaction and require less time 
and labor on the part of the housewife than grains, cooked by 
the aid of a small lamp stove. 

All grains should be kept in a perfectly dry place protected 
from air and moisture. 

WHEAT. 

Description. — Wheat is the most important of the grain 
foods. It is probably a native of Southwestern Asia, though like 
most grains cultivated from the earliest periods, its history is 
extremely obscure. 

Wheat is of two principal kinds, characterized as soft and 
hard wheat, though there are hundreds of named varieties of 
the grain. The distinction between many of these is due to 
variation in the relative proportions of starch and nitrogenous 
matter. Some contain not more than eight per cent of nitrog- 
enous elements, while others contain eighteen or twenty per 
cent, with a corresponding decrease in carbonaceous elements. 
This difference depends upon the soil, cultivation, season, 
climate, and other conditions under which the grain is pro- 
duced. 

The structure of the wheat grain consists of an external 
tegument of a hard, woody nature, so coherent that it appears 
in the form of scales or bran when the wheat is ground, and an 
inner portion, more soft and friable, consisting of several 
cellular layers. The layer nearest the outer husk contains 
vegetable fibrin and fatty matter. The second layer is largely 
composed of gluten cells ; while the center comprising the bulk 



86 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 




Seclional View of Wheat Kernel 



of the grain, is chied)- made up of starch granules with a small 
proportion of gluten. 

The structure of a wheat kernel is well illustrated in the 
accompanying cut. As will be seen, the different food elements 
are situated in different parts of the grain, and not uniforml / 
distributed throughout its structure. The outer husk of the 

berry is composed wholly 
of innutritious and indi- 
gestible matter, but the 
thin layers which lie next 
this outer covering con- 
tain the larger proportion 
of the nitrogenous ele- 
ments to be found in the 
entire kernel. The cen- 
tral portion consists al- 
most wholly of farina- 
ceous matter. 

Phosphates and other 
mineral matter are present to some extent throughout the en- 
tire grain, but preponderate in the external part. Here is also 
found a peculiar, soluble, active principle called diastase, which 
possesses the power of converting starch into sugar. The dark 
color and marked flavor of Graham bread is undoubtedly due 
to the influence of this element. 

Until within a few years the unground grain was rarely used 
as an article of food, but people are beginning to appreciate 
its wholesomeness, and cracked, rolled, and pearled wheats are 
coming rapidly into favor. Cracked wheat is the grain cleaned 
and then cut into two or more pieces ; in rolled wheat the 
grains are mashed between rollers, by which process they are 
thoroughly softened in every part, and are then easily cooked. 
Pearl wheat is the whole grain cleaned and dressed. The 
whole grain is also cooked sometimes in its natural state. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Few articles of food show 
greater difference between good and poor cooking than the 
various grains. Dry, harsh, or underdone, they are as un- 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 87 

wholesome as unpalatable. Like most of the grains, wheat, 
with the exception of new wheat boiled whole, should be put 
into boilin<^ water and allowed to cook continuously but slowly 
until done. Any of the unground preparations require pro- 
longed cooking. The average length of time and the approxi- 
mate amount of water needed in cooking 07ie ciipfid of the 
various wheat preparations in a double boiler, is stated on 

page 82. 

REOIPES. 

Pearl Wheat. — Heat a quart of water to boiling in the inner dish of a 
double boiler, and stir into it one cup or one-half pint of pearl wheat. 
Let it boil rapidly until thickened and the wheat has ceased settling, then 
place in the outer boiler, in which the water should be boiling, and cook 
continuously from three to four hours. 

Cracked Wheat. — Cracked wheat may be cooked in the same manner 
as pearl wheat, by using four and one-half parts of water to one of grain. 
The length of time required to cook it thoroughly is about the same as for 
pearl wheat. 

Rolled Wheat. — This preparation of wheat requires only three parts 
water to one of wheat. It should be cooked in the same way as pearled 
wheat, but requires only three hours' cooking. 

Boiled Wheat (sometimes called frumenty). — Select newly-cut wheat, 
well rubbed or threshed out. Look it over carefully, wash, and put to 
cook in five times its measure of cold water. Let it come to a boil, and 
cook gently until the grains burst open, and it can be readily mashed 
between the thumb and finger. This will reejnire from four to ten hours, 
depending upon the age and variety of the wheat used. When done, it 
should be even full of a rich, thick li<iuor. If necessary, add more boiling 
water, but stir as little as possible. It may be served with cream, the 
same as other wheat preparations. It is also excellent served with lemon 
and other fruit sauces. 

Wheat "with Raisins. — Raisins or Zante currants may be added to any 
of the foregoing recipes, if desired. The raisins or currants should be 
well steamed previously, however, and stirred in lightly and evenly just 
before dishing. If cooked with the grain, they become soft, broken, and 
insipid. Figs, well steamed and chopped, may be added in the same way. 
Wheat with Fresh Fruit. — Fresh whortleberries, blueberries, and 
blackberries stirred into any of the well-cooked wheat preparations just be- 
fore serving, make a very desirable addition. A most delicious dish may 
be prepared by stirring into well-cooked cracked wheat a few spoonfuls of 
rather thick cream and some fresh wild blackberries. Serve hot. 



88 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Molded Wlieat. — Cracked wheat, rolled wheat, or pearl wheat, cooked 
according to the foregoing recipes, and turned into molds until cold, makes 
a very palatable dessert, and may be served with sugar and cream or with 
fruit juice. Bits of jelly placed on top of the molds in the form of stars 
or crosses, add to the appearance. Molded grains are also very nice 
served with fresh berries; either mashed or whole, arranged around 
the mold. 

FINER MILL PRODUCTS OF WHEAT. 

The grain of wheat is inclosed in a woody envelope. The 
cellular layers just beneath contain the largest proportion of 
nitrogenous matter, in the form of gluten, and are hard of pul- 
verization, while the starchy heart of the grain is easily crum- 
bled into fine dust. Thus it will be readily understood that 
when the grain is subjected to an equal pulverizing force, the 
several portions will be likely to be crushed into particles of 
different sizes. The outer husk being toughest, will be the 
least affected, the nitrogenous or glutenous portion will be 
much finer, while the brittle starch will be reduced to powder. 
This first simple product of grinding is termed wheat meal, un- 
bolted, or Graham flour, and of course contains all the elements 
of the grain. In ordinary milling, however, this is subjected to 
various siftings, boltings, or dressings, to separate the finer 
from the coarser particles, and then subdivided into various 
grades of flour, which vary much in composition and properties. 
The coarser product contains the largest proportion of nutri- 
ents, while in the finer portions there is an exclusion of a large 
part of the nitrogenous element of the grain. The outer por- 
tions of the wheat kernel, which contain the greater part of the 
nitrogenous element, are darker in color than the central, 
starchy portion. It will be apparent, then, that the finer and 
whiter the flour, the less nutriment it is likely to contain, and 
that in the use of superfine white flour the eye is gratified at 
the expense of the body. 

A preparation called farina, is made from the central portion 
of wheat, freed from bran, and crushed in granules. Another 
preparation, called Graham grits, is prepared by granulating the 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS.. 89 

outer layers of the kernel together with the germ of the wheat. 
This j)rcparation, comparatively a new one, includes the most 
nutritious properties of the grain, and its granular form renders 
it excellent for mushes as well as for other purposes. Farina 
is scarcely more nutritious than white flour, and should not 
be used as a staple food. Graham grits contains the best 
elements of the wheat grain in good proportion, and is one of 
the best preparations of wheat. Other preparations of wheat 
somewhat similar in character are farinose, germlet, etc. 

REC/PES. 

Farina. — Heat a pint of milk and one of water, or if preferred, a quart 
of milk, in the inner cup of a double boiler; and when boiling, stir in five 
tablespoonfuls of farina, moistened evenly with a little milk. Let it boil 
rapidly until well set, which will be in about five or eight minutes ; then 
place in the outer boiler, and cook one hour. Serve cold or hot with a 
dressing of cream or fruit juices. Farina may be cooked in water alone, 
but on account of its lack of nutritive elements, it is more valuable if pre- 
pared with milk. 

Farina witli Fig Sauce. — Cook the farina as in the foregoing recipe, 
and serve hot with a fig sauce prepared as follows : — 

Carefully look over, wash, and chop or cut quite finely, enough good figs 
to make a cupful. Stew in a pint of water, to which has been added a table- 
spoonful of sugar, until they are one homogeneous mass. If the figs are 
not of the best quality and do not readily soften, it is well, after stewing 
for a time, to rub them through a colander or vegetable press to break up 
the tough portions and make a smooth sauce. Put a spoonful of the hot 
fig sauce on each individual dish of farina, and serve with cream or with- 
out dressing. 

Farina with Fresh Fruit. — Cook the farina as previously directed. 
Have some sliced yellow peaches, mellow sweet apples, or bananas in a 
dish, turn the farina over them, stir up lightly with a fork, and serve hot 
with cream. 

Molded Farina. — Farina to be used cold may be cooked in the same 
manner as before described, with two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar 
added at the same time with the farina, and when done, molded in cups 
previously wet with a little cold water. Serve with a dressing of fruit juice, 
whipped cream flavored with lemon, or mock cream flavored with cocoanut. 

Graham Grits. — To four parts of water boiling in the inner dish of a 
double boiler add slowly, so as not to stop the boiling of the water, one 
part of Graham grits. Stir until thickened, then place in the outer boiler, 



90 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

and steam from three to five hours. Serve hot with cream, or mold in 
cups previously dipped in cold water, and serve with a dressing of fruit 
juice. The fig sauce prepared as previously directed, is also excellent 
with Graham grits. 

Graham Mush No. 1. — Good flour is the first requisite for making 
good Graham mush. Poor Graham flour cannot be made into first-class 
mush. Flour made from the best white winter wheat is perhaps the best. 
It may be used either sifted or unsifted, as preferred. The proportion of 
flour and liquid to be used will necessarily vary somewhat with the quality 
of the flour, but in general, three parts water to one of flour will be needed. 
Too much flour not only makes the mush too thick, but gives to it an un- 
derdone taste. Stir the dry flour rapidly into boiling water, (which should 
not cease to boil during the process), until a thick porridge is obtained. 
It is well to have it a little thinner at first than is desirable for serving, as 
it will thicken by cooking. Cook slowly at least one hour. A longer time 
makes it more digestible. 

Left-over Graham mush is nice spread on rather shallow tins, and 
simply heated quickly in a hot oven. 

Graham Mush No. "2, — Moisten one pint of good Graham flour with a 
pint of warm water, or enough to make a batter thin enough to pour. 
(The quantity of water needed will vary a little with the fineness and 
quality of the flour.) Pour this batter into a quart of water boiling 
in the inner cup of a double boiler. Remember to add the batter suffi- 
ciently slow, so as not to stop the boiling of the water. When thickened, 
put into the outer boiler, and cook for one hour. 

Graham Mush No. 3. — Prepare in the same way as above, using milk 
or part milk in the place of water. Left-over Graham mush at break- 
fast, which has been prepared with water, is very nice if, while it is still 
warm, a small quantity* of hot milk is well stirred into it, and it is then set 
by to be reheated in a double boiler for dinner. 

Grahaui Mush "with Dates. — Prepare a mush as for Graham mush 
No. 2. When done, place in the dish in which the mush is to be served, 
some nice, fresh dates from which the stones have been removed. Pour the 
mush over them, and stir up lightly, taking care not to break the fruit, 
and serve. Raisins previously steamed, or figs steamed and cut in pieces, 
may be used instead of dates. Serve hot with cream, or mold, and serve 
cold. 

Plum Porridg:e. — Prepare a Graham mush as previously directed, and 
when done, add to it a cup of well-steamed raisins and sufficient rich milk 
to thin it to the consistency of porridge. 

Graham Apple Mush. — Prepare a smooth apple sauce of rather tart 
apples. Sweeten it slightly, and thin with boiling water. Have this mixt- 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 91 

lire boiling, and add to it Graham flour, either sprinkled in dry or moist- 
ened with water, sufficient to make a well-thickened mush. Cook, and 
serve hot with cream. 

Granulu Miisli. — Granola, a cooked ])reparation of wheat and oats, 
manufactured by the Sanitarium Food Co., makes a most appetizing and 
quickly-prepared breakfast dish. Into a quart of boiling water sprinkle a 
pint of granola. Cook for two or three minutes, and serve hot with cream. 

CIranola Fruit Mush. — Prepare the mush as directed, and stir into it, 
when done, a large cupful of nicely-steamed, seedless raisins. Serve hot 
with cream. Milk may be used instead of water, if prefrM-v 

(jlrauola Peach Mush. — Instc:.d of the raisins as directed in tlie fore- 
going recipe, add to the mush, when dune, a pint of sliced yellow peaches. 
Finely-cut, mellow sweet apples, sliced bananas, and blueberries may be 
used in a similar way. 

Bran Jelly. — Select some clean wheat bran, sprinkle it slowly into 
boiling water as for Graham nmsh, stirring briskly meanwhile with a 
wooden spoon, until the whole is about the consistency of thick gruel. 
Cook slowly in a double boiler for two hours. Strain through a fine wire 
sieve placed over the top of a basin. When strained, reheat to boiling. 
Then stir into it a spoonful or so of sifted Graham flour, rubbed smooth 
in a little cold water. Boil up once; turn into molds previously wet in 
cold water, and when cool, serve with cream or fruit juice. 

THE OAT, OR AYENA. 

Description. — The native country of the plant from which 
our common varieties of the oat are derived, is unknown-. Oat 
grains have been found among the remains of the lake-dwellers 
in Switzerland, and it is probable that this plant was cultivated 
by the prehistoric inhabitants of Central Europe. 

The ancient Greeks and Romans used oats, ranking them 
next in value to barley, which they esteemed above all other 
cereals. Although principally grown as food for horses, the 
oat, when divested of its husk and broken by a process of mill- 
ing, is an exceedingly nutritious and valuable article of diet 
for human beings ; and there is no article of food that has in- 
creased in general favor more rapidly in the last few years than 
this grain. 

The Scotch have long been famed for their large consump- 
tion of oatmeal. It forms the staple article of diet for the 



92 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

peasantry, to which fact is generally attributed the fine 
physique and uniform health for which they, as a race, are 
particularly noted. It is related that Dr. Johnson, of diction- 
ary fame, who never lost an opportunity to disparage the 
Scotch, on one occasion defined oats as, " In Scotland, food for 
men ; in England, food for horses." He was well answered 
by an indignant Scotchman who replied, " Yes ; and where can 
you find such fine men as in Scotland, or such horses as in 
England .'* " 

Oatmeal justly ranks high as an alimentary substance. It 
contains about the same proportion of nitrogenous elements as 
wheat, and with the exception of maize, is richer in fatty mat- 
ter thah any other of the cultivated cereals. In general struct- 
ure the oat resembles wheat. 

To prepare oats for food, the husk, which is wholly indi- 
gestible in character, must be thoroughly removed. To accom- 
plish this, the grain is first kiln-dried to loosen the husk, and 
afterward submitted to a process of milling. Denuded of its 
integument, the nutritive part of the grain is termed groats ; 
broken into finer particles, it constitutes what is known as 
oatmeal ; rolled oats, or avena, is prepared by a process which 
crushes the kernels. Oatmeal varies also in degrees of tritura- 
tion, some kinds being ground much finer than others. The 
more finely-ground products are sometimes adulterated with 
barley meal, which is cheaper than oatmeal and less nutritious. 
The black specks which are sometimes found in oatmeal are 
particles of black oats which have been ground in connection 
with the other. 

Oatmeal lacks the tenacity of wheaten flour, and cannot, 
without the addition of some other flour, be made into light 
bread. It is, however, largely consumed by the inhabitants of 
Scotland and the north of England, in the form of oatcakes. 
The oatmeal is mixed with water, kneaded thoroughly, then 
rolled into very thin cakes, and baked on an iron plate or 
griddle suspended over a fire. So much, however, depends 
upon the kneading, that it is said that the common inquiry 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 93 

before the engagement of a domestic servant in Scotland, is 
whether or not she is a good kneader of oatcakes. 

The most common use of oatmeal in this country is in the 
form of mush or porridge. For this the coarser grades of meal 
are preferable. For people in health, there is no more whole- 
some article of diet than oatmeal cooked in this way and eaten 
with milk. For growing children, it is one of the best of foods, 
containing, as it does, a large proportion of bone and muscle- 
forming material, while to almost all persons who have become 
accustomed to its use, it is extremely palatable. The time 
required for its digestion is somewhat longer than that of 
wheaten meal prepared in the same manner. It is apt to 
disagree with certain classes of dyspeptics, having a tendency 
to produce acidity, though it is serviceable as an article of diet 
in some forms of indigestion. The manner of its preparation 
for the table has very much to do with its M'holesomeness. 
Indeed, many objectionable dishes are prepared from it. One 
of these, called brose, much used in Scotland, is made by simply 
stirring oatmeal into some hot liquid, as beef broth, or the water 
in which a vegetable has been boiled. The result is a coarse, 
pasty mass of almost raw oatmeal, an extremely indigestible 
compound, the use of which causes water brash. A preparation 
called soivens, or flummery, made by macerating the husks of 
the oats in water from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, until 
the mixture ferments, then boiling down to the consistency of 
gruel, is a popular article of food among the Scotch and Welsh 
peasantry. When boiled down still more, so it will form a firm 
jelly when cold, the preparation is called bndrum. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Oatmeal requires much cook- 
ing in order to break its starch cells ; and the coarser the meal, 
the longer it should be allowed to cook. A common fault in 
the use of oatmeal is that it is served in an underdone state, 
which makes a coarse, indigestible dish of what, with more 
lengthy preparation, would be an agreeable and nutritious food. 
Like most of the grains, it is best put into boiling soft water, 
and allowed to cook continously and slowly. It is greatly in- 



94 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

jured by stirring, and is therefore preferably cooked in a 
double boiler or closed steamer. If it is necessary to use an 
ordinary kettle, place it on some part of the range where the 
contents will only simmer ; or a hot brick may be placed under 
it to keep it from cooking too fast. It may be cooked the day 
previous, and warmed for use the same as other grains. 

REC/PES. 

Oatmeal Mush. — Heat a quart of water to boiling in the inner dish of 
a double boiler, sift into it one cup of coarse oatmeal, and boil rapidly, 
stirring continuously until it sets ; then place in the outer boiler, the water 
in which should be boiling, and cook three hours or longer. Serve with 
cream. 

Oatmeal Fruit Mush. — Prepare the oatmeal as directed above, and stir 
in lightly, when dishing for the table, some sliced mellow and juicy raw 
sweet apples. Strawberry apples and other slightly tart apples are like- 
wise excellent for the purpose. Well-ripened peaches and bananas may 
also be used, if care is taken to preserve the slices whole, so as to present 
an appetizing appearance. Both this and the plain oatmeal mush are 
best eaten with toasted whole-wheat wafers or some other hard food. 

Oatmeal Blaucmang"e No. 1. — Soak a cupful of coarse oatmeal over 
night in a pint and a half of water. In the morning, beat the oatmeal 
well with a spoon, and afterwards pass all the soluble portion through a 
fine strainer. Place the liquid in the inner dish of a double boiler, and 
cook for half an hour. Turn into cups, cool fifteen or twenty minutes, 
and serve warm with cream and sugar, or a dressing of fruit juice. A 
lemon sauce prepared as directed on page 354 likewise makes an excellent 
dressing. 

Oatmeal Blancmang-e No. 2. — Take a pint of well-cooked oatmeal, add 
to it a pint of milk, part cream if obtainable. Beat well together, and 
strain through a fine wire sieve. Turn the liquid into a saucepan, and 
boil for a few moments, until it is thick enough to drop from the point of a 
spoon ; then turn into cups previously wet in cold water, and mold. 
Serve with a dressing of fruit juice or whipped cream slightly sweetened 
and flavored with lemon. 

Jellied Oatmeal. — Cook oatmeal or rolled oats with an additional cup 
or cup and a half of water, and when done, turn into cups and mold. 
Serve cold with hot cream. 

Mixed Mush. — A cup and a half of rolled wheat, mixed with one-half 
cup of coarse oatmeal, and cooked the same as oatmeal, forms a mush 
preferred by some to oatmeal alone. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 95 

Rolled Oats. — This preparation of oats should be cooked the same as 
oatmeal, but requires only three parts water to one of rolled oats, when 
cooked in a double boiler. 

Oatmeal with Apple. — Cold oatmeal which has been left over may be 
made into an appetizing dish by molding in alternate layers with nicely- 
steamed tart apple, sprinkled lightly with sugar. Serve with cream. 
Other cooked fruit, such as cherries, evaporated peaches, and apricots 
may be used in the same way. A very pleasing dish is made by using be- 
tween the layers ripe yellow peaches and plums sliced together, and 
lightly sprinkled with sugar. 

Oatmeal Porridg^e. • — Into a quart and a half of water, which should be 
boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, sprinkle one cup of rather 
coarse oatmeal. Boil rapidly, stirring meanwhile until the grain is set ; 
then place in the outer boiler, and cook continuously for three hours or 
longer. A half cup of cream added just before serving, is a desirable 
addition. 

BARLEY. 

Description. — Barley is stated by historians to be the 
oldest of all cultivated grains. It seems to have been the 
principal bread plant among the ancient Hebrews, Greeks, and 
Romans. The Jews especially held the grain in high esteem, 
and sacred history usually uses it interchangeably with wheat, 
when speaking of the fruits of the earth. 

Among the early Greeks and Romans, barley was almost 
the only food of the common people and the soldiers. The 
flour was made into gruel, after the following recipe : " Dry, 
near the fire or in the oven, twenty pounds of barley flour, 
then parch it. Add three pounds of linseed meal, half a pound 
of coriander seed, two ounces of salt, and the water necessary." 
If an especially delectable dish was desired, a little millet was 
also added to give the paste more " cohesion and delicacy.'' 
Barley was also used whole as a food, in which case it was first 
parched, which is still the manner of preparing it in some parts 
of Palestine and many districts of India, also in the Canary 
Islands, where it is known as gofio. Of this custom a lady 
from Palestine writes : " The reapers, during barley harvest, 
take bunches of the half-ripe grain, and singe, or parch, it over 



96 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

a fire of thorns. The milk being still in the grain, it is very- 
sweet, and is considered a delicacy." 

In the time of Charles I, barley meal took the place of 
wheat almost entirely as the food of the common people in 
England. In some parts of Europe, India, and other Eastern 
countries, it is still largely consumed as the ordinary farinaceous 
food of the peasantry and soldiers. The early settlers of New 
England also largely used it for bread making. At the present 
day only a very insignificant quantity of barley is used for food 
purposes in this country, and most of this in the unground state. 

Barley is less nutritious than wheat, and to many people is 
less agreeable in flavor. It is likewise somewhat inferior in 
point of digestibility. Its starch cells being less soluble, they 
offer more resistance to the gastric juice. 

There are several distinct species of barley, but that most 
commonly cultivated is designated as two-rowed, or two-eared 
barley. In general structure, the barley grain resembles wheat 
and oats. 

Simply deprived of its outer husk, the grain is termed Scotch 
milled or pot barley. Subjected still further to the process by 
which the fibrous outer coat of the grain is removed, it consti- 
tutes what is known as pearl barley. Pearl barley ground into 
flour is known as patent barley. Barley flour, owing to the fact 
that it contains so small a proportion of gluten, needs to be 
mixed with wheaten flour for bread-making purposes. When 
added in small quantity to whole-wheat bread, it has a tend- 
ency to keep the loaf moist, and is thought by some to improve 
the flavor. 

The most general use made of this cereal as a food, is in the 
form of pearl, or Scotch, barley. When well boiled, barley re- 
quires about two hours for digestion. 

General Suggestions for Cooking Barley. — The condi- 
tions requisite for cooking barley are essentially the same as for 
oatmeal. It is best cooked slowly. Four parts of water to one of 
grain will be needed for steaming or cooking in a double boiler, 
and from four to five hours' time will be required, unless the 
grain has been previously soaked for several hours, in which 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS, 97 

case three hours will do. If the strong flavor of the grain is 
objected to, it may be soaked over night and cooked in fresh 
water. This method will, however, be a sacrifice of some of the 
nutriment contained in the grain. Barley thus soaked will re- 
quire only three parts water to one of barley for cooking. 

REC/PES. 

Baked Barley. — Soak six tablespoonfuls of barley in cold water over 
night. In the morning, turn off the water, and put the barley in an 
earthen pudding dish, and pour three and one half pints of boiling water 
over it; add salt if desired, and bake in a moderately quick oven about 
two and one half hours, or till perfectly soft, and all the water is ab- 
sorbed. When about half done, add four or five tablespoonfuls of sugar 
mixed with grated lemon peel. It may be eaten warm, but is very nice 
molded in cups and served cold with cream. 

Pearl Barley with Raisins. — Carefully look over and wash a cupful 
of pearl barley. Cook in a double boiler in five cups of boiling water for 
four hours. Just before serving, add a cupful of raisins which have been 
prepared by pouring boiling water over them and allowing them to stand 
until swollen. Serve hot, with cream. 

Pearl Barley with Lemon Sauce. — Pearl barley cooked in the same 
manner, but without the addition of the raisins, is excellent served with 
cream or with a lemon sauce prepared as directed on page 354. 

RICE. 

Description. — Rice is one of the most abundantly used 
and most digestible of all the cereals. It grows wild in India, 
and it is probable that this is its native home. It is, however, 
now cultivated in most tropical and sub-tropical climates, and 
is said to supply the principal food for nearly one third of the 
human race. It is mentioned in history several hundred years 
before Christ. According to Soyer, an old writer on foods, the 
Greeks and Romans held rice in high esteem, believing it to be 
a panacea for chest and lung diseases. 

The grain is so largely grown and used by the Chinese that 
"fan," their word for rice, has come to enter into many com- 
pound words. A beggar is called a " tou-fan-tee," that is, "the 
rice-seeking one," The ordinary salutation, " Che-fan," which 
7 



98 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

answers to our " How do you do ? " means, " Have you eaten 
your rice ? " 

Rice requires a wet soil, and the fields in which the grain 
is raised, sometimes called "paddy" fields,, are periodically 
irrigated. Before ripening, the water is drained off, and the 
crop is then cut with a sickle, made into shocks, stacked, 
threshed, and cleaned, much like wheat. The rice kernel is 
inclosed within two coverings, a coarse outer husk, which is 
easily removed, and an inner, reddish, siliceous coating. 

"Paddy" is the name given in India to the rice grain when 
inclosed in its husk. The same is termed "rough rice" in this 
country. The outer husk of the rice is usually removed in 
the process of threshing, but the inner red skin, or hull, ad- 
heres very closely, and is removed by rubbing and pounding. 
The rough rice is first ground between large stones, and then 
conveyed into mortars, and pounded with iron-shod pestles. 
Thence, by fanning and screening, the husk is fully removed, 
and the grain divided into three different grades, whole, mid- 
dlings, and small whole grains, and polished ready for market. 
The middlings consist of the larger broken pieces of the 
grain ; the small rice, of the small fragments mixed with 
the chit of the grain. The broken rice, well dried, is some- 
times ground into flour of different degrees of fineness. 
The small rice is much sweeter and somewhat superior in 
point of nutritive value to the large or head rice usually 
met with in commerce. 

Rice is characterized by a large percentage of starch, and 
is so deficient in other food elements that if used alone, unless 
consumed in very large quantities, it will not furnish the req- 
uisite amount of nitrogenous material necessary for a perfect, 
health food. For this reason, it is necessary to supplement 
its use with some other food containing an excess of nitroge- 
nous elements, as peas, beans, milk, etc. Associated with 
other articles rich in albuminous elements, rice is exceed- 
ingly valuable, and one of the most easily digested foods. 
Boiled or steamed rice requires but a little over one hour for 
digestion. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 99 

Preparation and Cooking. — Rice needs to be thoroughly- 
washed to remove the earthy taste it is so apt to have. A 
good way to do this is to put it into a colander, in a deep pan 
of water. Rub the rice well with the hands, lifting the col- 
ander in and out the water, and changing the water until it is 
clear ; then drain. In this way the grit is deposited in the 
water, and the rice left thoroughly clean. 

The best method of cooking rice is by steaming it. If 
boiled in much water, it loses a portion of its already small 
percentage of nitrogenous elements. It requires much less 
time for cooking than any of the other grains. Like all the 
dried grains and seeds, rice swells in cooking to several times 
its original bulk. When cooked, each grain of rice should be 
separate and distinct, yet perfectly tender. 

REC/PES. 

Steamed Rice.— Soak a cup of rice in one and a fourth cups of water 
for an hour, then add a cup of milk, turn into an earthen dish suitable for 
serving it from at table, and place in a steam-cooker or a covered steamer 
over a kettle of boiling water, and steam for an hour. It should be stirred 
with a fork occasionally, for the first ten or fifteen minutes. 

Boiled Rice (Japanese method). — Thoroughly cleanse the rice by 
washing in several waters, and soak it over night. In the morning, drain 
it, and put to cook in an equal quantity of boiling water, that is, a pint 
of water for a pint of rice. For cooking, a stewpan with tightly fitting 
cover should be used. Heat the water to boiling, then add the rice, and 
after stirring, put on the cover, which is not again to be removed during 
the boihng. At first, as the water boils, steam will puff out freely from 
under the cover, but when the water has nearly evaporated, which will be 
in eight to ten minutes, according to the age and quality of the rice, only 
a faint suggestion of steam will be observed, and the stewpan must then 
be removed from over the fire to some place on the range, where it will 
not burn, to swell and dry for fifteen or twenty minutes. 

Rice to be boiled in the ordinary manner requires two quarts of boil- 
ing water to one cupful of rice. It should be boiled rapidly until tender, 
then drained at once, and set in a moderate oven to become dry. Picking 
and lifting lightly occasionally with a fork will make it more flaky and 
dry. Care must be taken, however, not to mash the rice grains. 

Rice with Fig Sauce. — Steam a cupful of best rice as directed above, 
and when done, serve with a fig sauce prepared as directed on page 89. 



lOO SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Dish a spoonful of the fig sauce with each saucer of rice, and serve with 
plenty of cream. Rice served in this way requires no sugar for dressing, 
and is a most wholesome breakfast dish. 

Orange Rice. — Wash and steam the rice according to directions al- 
ready given. Prepare some oranges by separating into sections and cut- 
ting each section in halves, removing the seeds and all the white portion. 
Sprinkle the oranges lightly with sugar, and let them stand while the rice 
is cooking. Serve a portion of the orange on each saucerful of rice. 

Rice with Raisins. — Carefully wash a cupful of rice, soak it, and cook 
as directed for Steamed Rice. After the rice has begun to swell, but be- 
fore it has softened, stir into it lightly, using a fork for the purpose, a 
cupful of raisins, or Zante currants. Serve with cream. 

Rice witli Peaches. — Steam the rice as previously directed, and when 
done, serve with cream and a nicely ripened peach pared and sliced on 
each individual dish. 

Browned Rice. — Spread a cupful of rice on a shallow baking tin, and 
put into a moderately hot oven to brown. It will need to be stirred fre- 
quently to prevent burning and to secure a uniformity of color. Each 
rice kernel, when sufBciently browned, should be of a yellowish brown, 
about the color of ripened wheat. Steam the same as directed for ordinary 
rice, using only two cups of water for each cup of browned rice, and 
omitting the preliminary soaking. When properly cooked, each kernel will 
be separate, dry, and mealy. Rice prepared in this manner is undoubt- 
edly more digestible than when cooked without browning. 

RYE. 

Description. — Rye is much more largely grown and used 
in European countries than in America. In appearance it 
closely resembles wheat, although somewhat darker in color 
and smaller in size. Bread made from rye constitutes the sta- 
ple food of the people in many parts of Europe. In nutritive 
value such bread nearly equals that made from wheat, but it 
has an acid taste not relished by persons unaccustomed to 
its use. 

Rye is found in market deprived of its husk and crushed or 
rolled, and also in the form of meal and flour. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. lOI 

REC/PES. 

Rolled Rye. — Into three parts water boiling in the inner dish of a 
double boiler, stir one part rolled rye. Boil rapidly until set, stirring 
meanwhile, then place in the outer boiler, and cook for three or more 
hours. 

Rye Mush. — Stir a cupful of rye meal to a smooth batter with a 
cupful of water, then turn it slowly into three cupfuls of water, which 
should be boiling on the range, in the inner dish of a double boiler. Stir 
until thickened, then place in the outer boiler, and cook for an hour 
or longer. 

MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN. 

Description. — There can be little doubt that maize is of 
American origin. The discoverers of the new world found it 
cultivated by the aborigines, and from the fact that corn was 
the generic term then largely used to designate grain (in old 
English, "corn" means grain), they named it "Indian corn." 
Since that time it has been carried to nearly every part of the 
globe, and probably it is more extensively used than any other 
one of the cereals, with the exception of rice. This is undoubt- 
edly due to the fact that it is the most prolific of the grains, 
and is adapted to the widest range of climate. 

Maize was the chief food of the slaves of Brazil, as it used 
to be of those in our own Southern States, and is very largely 
consumed in Mexico and Peru. It was used very little in 
Europe until the Irish famine in 1847 ; since then, it has be- 
come a staple food with the poorer classes. 

The varieties of corn are almost too numerous to be counted. 
For general purposes, however, they may be classified as field 
corn, sweet corn, and pop corn. 

Corn is characterized by an excess of fatty matter, con- 
taining upwards of three times the amount of that element to 
be found in wheat. Corn requires stronger powers of digestion 
than wheat, and is unsuited to some stomachs. 

The skin of the corn kernel is thin, and when subjected to 
milling processes, is included in the grinding. When well 
ground, it can be digested, with the exception of the siliceous 
coating. 



I02 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Sweet corn and some of the field varieties, form a nutritious 
and favorite food while green. The mature grain is used in 
many forms. The whole grain, hulled, is an agreeable food. 
Hulled, broken, or split to various degrees of fineness, it is 
known according to the size to which the grain has been re- 
duced as hominy, fine hominy, or grits ; or, if finer still, as 
samp. Subjected to a process of still finer trituration, it forms 
meal. Cornstarch consists of the farinaceous portions of the 
grain. 

On account of the large proportion of fatty matter con- 
tained in maize, it acquires, if kept for some time, an unpleas- 
ant, rancid taste, occasioned by the usual change which takes 
place in fat when exposed to the atmosphere. 

The new process granular meal, which is prepared from 
corn dried for a long period before grinding, becomes rank less 
quickly than that ground, in the old way. 

Maize meal is very largely consumed in the form of mush or 
porridge. This, in Ireland, is termed " stirabout ; " in Italy it 
is called "polenta;" and in British Honduras it is known as 
" corn lob." 

General Suggestions for Cooking — Most of the various 
preparations from maize require prolonged cooking to render 
them wholesome ; this is equally true respecting mushes pre- 
pared from samp or meal, a dish which unfortunately some 
cook in bygone days saw fit to term " hasty pudding." Un- 
thinking people since, supposing it to have been so named 
because of the little time required to cook it, have commonly 
prepared it in fifteen or twenty minutes, whereas from one to 
two hours, or even longer, are necessary to cook it properly. 
Hulled corn, hominy, and grits, all require prolonged cooking. 
The time for cooking these preparations may be somewhat 
lessened if they are previously soaked over night. They 
should, however, be cooked in the same water in which they 
are soaked. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. IO3 



RECfPES. 



Corn Meal Mush. — Stir together one pint of corn meal, one tablespoon- 
ful of flour, and one pint of cold milk. Turn this slowly, stirring well 
meanwhile, into one quart of boiling water, which should not cease to boil 
during the introduction of the batter. Cook three or four hours. If milk 
is not obtainable, water alone may be used, in which case two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour will be needed. Cook in a double boiler. 

Corn Meal Mush with Fruit. — Mush prepared in the above manner 
may have some well-steamed raisins or chopped figs added to it just be- 
fore serving. 

Corn Meal Cubes. — Left-over corn meal mush may be made into an 
appetizing dish by first slicing into rather thick slices, then cutting into 
cubes about one inch square. Put the cubes into a tureen and turn over 
them a quantity of hot milk or cream. Cover the dish, let them stand 
until thoroughly heated through, then serve. 

Browned Mush. — Slice cold corn meal mush rather thin, brush each 
slice with thick, sweet cream, and brown in a moderate oven until well 
heated through. 

Samp. — Use one part of samp to four and one half parts of boiling 
water. It is the best plan to reserve enough of the water to moisten the 
samp before adding it to the boiling water, as it is much less likely to cook 
in lumps. Boil rapidly, stirring continuously, until the mush has well set, 
then slowly for from two to three hours. 

Cerealine Flakes. — Into one measure of boiling liquid stir an equal 
measure of cerealine flakes, and cook in a double boiler from one half to 
three fourths of an hour. 

Hulled Corn. — To Htdl the Com, — Put enough wood ashes into a 
large kettle to half fill it ; then nearly fill with hot water, and boil ten 
minutes. Drain off the water from the ashes, turn it into a kettle, and 
pour in four quarts of clean, shelled field corn, white varieties preferred. 
Boil till the hulls rub off. Skim the corn out of the lye water, and put it 
into a tub of fresh cold water. To remove the hulls, scrub the corn well 
with a new stiff brush broom kept for the purpose, changing the water 
often. Put through half a dozen or more waters, and then take the corn 
out by handfuls, rubbing each well between the hands to loosen the re- 
maining hulls, and drop again into clear water. Pick out all hulls. 
Cleanse the corn through several more waters if it is to be dried and kept 
before using. Well hulled corn is found in the markets. 

To Cook. — If it is to be cooked at once, it should be parboiled in 
clear water twice, and then put into new water and cooked till tender. It 



104 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

should be nearly or quite dry when done. It may be served with milk 
or cream. 

Coarse Homiuy. — For coarse hominy use four parts of water or milk 
and water to one of grain. It is best steamed or cooked in a double boiler, 
though it may be boiled in a kettle over a slow fire. The only objection 
to this method is the need of frequent stirring to prevent sticking, which 
breaks and mashes the hominy. From four to five hours' slow cooking 
will be necessary, unless the grain has been previously soaked ; then 
about one hour less will be required. 

Fiue Homiuy or Grits. — This preparation is cooked in the same man- 
ner as the foregoing, using three and one half or four parts of water to one 
of the grain. Four or five hours will be necessary for cooking the un- 
soaked grits. 

Popped Corn. — The small, translucent varieties of maize known as 
"pop corn," possess the property, when gently roasted, of bursting open, 
or turning inside out, a process which is owing to the following facts : Corn 
contains an excess of fatty matter. By proper means this fat can be 
separated from the grain, and it is then a thick, pale oil. When oils are 
heated sufficiently in a vessel closed from the air, they are turned into 
gas, which occupies many times the bulk of the oil. When pop corn is 
gradually heated, and made so hot that the oil inside of the kernel turns 
to gas, being unable to escape through the hull of the kernel, the pressure 
finally becomes strong enough to burst the grain, and the explosion is so 
violent as to shatter it in a most curious manner. 

Popped corn forms an excellent food, the starch of the grain being 
well cooked. It should, however, be eaten in connection with other food 
at mealtime, and not as a delicacy between meals. Ground pop corn is 
considered a delectable dish eaten with milk or cream ; it also forms the 
base of several excellent puddings. 

To pop the corn, shell and place in a wire "popper" over a bed of 
bright coals, or on the top of a hot stove; stir or shake continuously, so 
that each kernel may be subjected to the same degree of heat on all sides, 
until it begins to burst open. If a popper is not attainable, a common iron 
skillet covered tightl)', and very lightly oiled on the bottom, may be used 
for the purpose. The corn must be very dry to begin with, and if good, 
nearly eveiy kernel will pop open nicely. It should be used within 
twentj^-four hours after popping. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 10$ 



MACARONI. 



Description. — Macaroni is a product of wheat prepared 
from a hard, clean, giutcnous grain. The grain is ground into 
a meal called semolina, from which the bran is excluded. This 
is made into a pasty dough by mixing with hot water in the pro- 
portion of two thirds semolina to one third water. The dough 
after being thoroughly mixed is put into a shallow vat and 
kneaded and rolled by machinery. When well rolled, it is 
made to assume various shapes by being forced by a powerful 
plunger through the perforated head of strong steel or iron 
cylinders arranged above a fire, so that the dough is partially 
baked as it issues from the holes. It is afterwards hung over 
rods or laid upon frames covered with cloth, and dried. It is 
called by different names according to its shape. If in the 
shape of large, hollow cylinders, it is macaroni ; if smaller in 
diameter, it is spaghetti; if fine, vermicelli ; if the paste is cut 
into fancy patterns, it is termed pasta d' Italia. 

Macaroni was formerly made only in Italy, but at present is 
manufactured to a considerable extent in the United States. 
The product, however, is in general greatly inferior to that im- 
ported from Italy, owing to the difference in the character of 
the wheat from which it is made, the Italian macaroni being- 
produced from a hard, semi-translucent wheat, rich in nitroge- 
nous elements, and which is only grown successfully in a hot 
climate. Like all cereal foods, macaroni should be kept in a 
perfectly dry storeroom. 

To Select Macaroni. — Good macaroni will keep in good 
condition for years. It is rough, elastic, and hard ; while the 
inferior article is smooth, soft, breaks easily, becomes moldy 
with keeping. Inferior macaroni contains a large percentage 
of starch, and but a small amount of gluten. When put into 
hot water, it assumes a white, pasty appearance, and splits in 
cooking. Good macaroni when put into hot water absorbs a 
portion of the water, swells to nearly double its size, but per- 
fectly retains its shape. Inferior macaroni is usually sold a few 
cents cheaper per pound than the genuine article. It contains 



I06 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

a much smaller amount of gluten. The best quality of any 
shape one pleases can be bought in most markets for ten or 
fifteen cents a pound. 

To Prepare and Cook Macaroni. — Do not wash maca- 
roni. If dusty, wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Break into pieces 
of convenient size. Always put to cook in boiling liquid, tak- 
ing care to have plenty of water in the saucepan (as it absorbs a 
large quantity), and cook until tender. The length of time 
required may vary from twenty minutes, if fresh, to one hour 
if stale. When tender, turn into a colander and drain, and 
pour cold water through it to prevent the tubes from sticking 
together. The fluid used for cooking may be water, milk, or a 
mixture of both ; also soup stock, tomato juice, or any pre- 
ferred liquid. 

Macaroni serves as an important adjunct in the making of 
various soups, and also forms the basis of other palatable 
dishes. 

REC/PES. 

Home-Made Macaroni. — To four cupfuls of flour, add one egg well 
beaten, and enough water to make a dough that can be rolled. Roll thin 
on a bread board and cut in strips. Dry in the sun. The best arrange- 
ment for this purpose is a wooden frame to which a square of cheese- 
cloth has been tightly tacked, upon which the macaroni may be laid in 
such a way as not to touch, and afterwards covered with cheese-cloth to 
keep off the dust during^ the drying. 

Boiled Macaroni. — Break sticks of macaroni into pieces about an inch 
in length, sufficient to fill a large cup ; put it into boiling water and cook 
until tender. When done, drain thoroughly, then add a pint of milk, part 
cream if it can be afforded, a little salt and one well-beaten egg ; stir over 
the fire until it thickens, and serve hot. 

Macaroni "with Ci'cani Sauce. — Cook the macaroni as directed in the 
preceding, and serve with a cream sauce prepared by heating a scant pint 
of rich milk to boiling, in a double boiler. When boiling, add a heaping 
tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in a little milk and one fourth tea- 
spoonful of salt. If desired, the sauce may be flavored by steeping in the 
milk before thickening for ten or fifteen minutes, a slice of onion or a few 
bits of celery, and then removing with a fork. 

Macaroni witli Tomato Sauce. — Break a dozen sticks of macaroni into 
two-inch lengths, and drop into boiling milk and water, equal parts. Let 




A JAPANESE DINNER 




THE MACARONI VENDER. 



THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. lO/ 

it boil for an hour, or until perfectly tender. In the meantime prepare the 
sauce by rubbing a pint of stewed or canned tomatoes through a colander 
to remove all seeds and fragments. Heat to boiling, thicken with a little 
flour ; a tablespoonful to the pint will be about the requisite proportion. 
Add salt and if desired, a half cup of very thin sweet cream. Dish the 
macaroni in individual dishes, and serve with a small quantity of the 
sauce poured over each dish. 

Macaroni Baked with Granola. — Break macaroni into pieces about an 
inch in length sufficient to fill a large cup, and cook until tender in boiling 
milk and water. When done, drain and put a layer of the macaroni in 
the bottom of an earthen pudding dish, and sprinkle over it a scant tea- 
spoonful of granola. Add a second and third layer and sprinkle each with 
granola; then turn over the whole a custard sauce prepared by mixing 
together a pint of milk, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs or one whole egg, 
and one fourth of a teaspoonful of salt. Care should be taken to arrange 
the macaroni in layers loosely, so that the sauce will readily permeate the 
whole. Bake for a few minutes only, until the custard has well set, and 
serve. 

Eg-g-s and Macaroni. — Break fifteen whole sticks of macaroni into two- 
inch lengths, and put to cook in boiling water. While the macaroni is 
cooking, boil the yolks of four eggs until mealy. The whole egg may be 
used if cooked so the yolks are mealy and the whites simply jellied, not 
hardened. When the macaroni is done, drain and put a layer of it ar- 
ranged loosely in the bottom of an earthen pudding dish. Slice the 
cooked egg yolks, and spread a layer of them over the macaroni. Fill the 
dish with alternate layers of macaroni and egg, taking care to have 
the top layer of macaroni. Pour over the whole a cream sauce prepared 
as follows : Heat one and three fourths cups of rich milk to boiling, add 
one fourth teaspoonful of salt and one heaping spoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold milk. Cook until thickened, then turn over the 
macaroni. Sprinkle the top with grated bread crumbs, and brown in a 
hot oven for eight or ten minutes. Serve hot. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Sir Isaac Newton, when writing his great work, " Principia," lived wholly upon 
a vegetable diet. 

Robert Collyer once remarked : " One great reason why I never had a really 
sick day in my life was that as a hoy I lived on oatmeal and milk and brown bread, 
potatoes and a bit of meat when I could get it, and then oatmeal again." 

Hot-Weather Diet. — The sultry period of our summer, although compara- 
tively slight and of short duration, is nevertheless felt by some persons to be ex- 
tremely oppressive, but this is mainly due to the practice of eating much animal food 
or fatty matters, conjoined as it often is with the habit of drinking freely of fluids 
containing more or less alcoholics. Living on cereals, vegetables, and fruit, and 
abstaining from alcoholic drinks, the same persons would probably enjoy the tem- 
perature, and be free from the thirst which is the natural result of consuming 
needlessly heating food. — Sir Henry Thompson. 

Mistress (arranging for dinner) — " Did n't the macaroni come from the grocer's, 
Bridget ? " 

Bridget — " Yis, mum, but oi sint it back. Every won av thim leetle stims wuz 
impty." 

Some years since, a great railroad corporation in the West, having occasion to 
change the gauge of its road throughout a distance of some five hundred miles, 
employed a force of 3,000 workmen upon the job, who worked from very early in 
the morning until late at night. Alcoholic drinks were strictly prohibited, but a thin 
gruel made of oatmeal and water was kept on hand and freely partaken of by the 
men to quench their thirst. The results were admirable ; not a single workman gave 
out under the severe strain, and not one lost a day from sickness. Thus this large 
body of men were kept well and in perfect strength and spirits, and the work was 
done in considerably less time than that counted on for its completion. 

In Scotch households oatmeal porridge is as inevitable as breakfast itself, except 
perhaps on Sundays, as this anecdote will illustrate. A mother and child were 
passing along a street in Glasgow, when this conversation was overheard : — 

" What day 's the morn, mither ? " 

"Sabbath, laddie." 

" An' will wi hae tea to breakfast, mither ? " 

" Aye, laddie, gin we 're spared." 

" An' gin we 're no spared, will we hae parritch i " 



r 108 







LTHOUGH the grains form most nutritious and pala- 
"vl table dishes when cooked in their unground state, this 
^1 i^M is not always the most convenient way of making use 
■=^4^i^ of them. Mankind from earliest antiquity has sought 
to give these wonderful products of Nature a more portable 
and convenient form by converting them into what is termed 
bread, a word derived from the verb draj/, to pound, beat, or 
grind small, indicative of the ancient manner of preparing the 
grain for making bread. Probably the earliest form of bread 
was simply the whole grain moistened and then exposed to 
heat. Afterward, the grains were roasted and ground, or 
pounded between stones, and unleavened bread was made by 
mixing this crude flour with water, and baking in the form of 
cakes. Among the many ingenious arrangements used by the 
ancients for baking this bread, was a sort of portable oven in 
shape something like a pitcher, in the inside of which a fire 
was made. When the oven was well heated, a paste made of 
meal and water was applied to the outside. Such bread was 

[109] 



biClENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

baked very quickly and taken off in small, thin sheets like 
wafers. A flat cake was the common form in which most of 
the bread of olden times was baked ; being: too brittle to be 
cut with a knife> the common mode of dividi^^g it was by break- 
ing^, and hence the expression '''breaking^ bread"* so common 
in Scripture. 

Various substances have been and are employed for making 
this needful article. Until the last few decades, barley was the 
grain most universally used. Chestnuts, ground to a flour, are 
made into bread in regions where these nuts abound. Quite 
recently, an immense peanut crop in the Southern States was 
utilised for bread-making purposes. In ancient times, the 
Thracians made bread from flour made from the ■wattrr cQltrart^ 
a prickly root of triangular form. In Syria, mulberries were 
dried and ground into flour. Rice, moss, palm tree piths, and 
starch-producing roots are used by different nationalities in 
the preparation of bread. In many parts of Sweden, bread is 
made from dried fish, using one half fish flour and one half 
barley flour : and in winter, flour made from the bark of trees 
is added. Desiccated tomatoes, potatoes, and other veg"etables 
are also mixed with the cereals for bread-making. In India> 
the lower classes make their bread chiefly from millet. Moss 
bread is made in Icelatid from the reindeer moss, which toward 
autumn becomes soft, tender, and moist, with a taste iike 
wheat bran. It contains a large quantity of starch, and the 
Icelanders gather, dry, pulverize it. and thus prepare it for 
bread-making. The ancient Eg\'ptians often made their bread 
from equal parts of the whole grain and meal. 

The breadstuff? most universally used among civilized na- 
tions at the present time are barley, rye, oats, maize, buck- 
wheat, rice, and wheat, of which the last has acquired a decided 
preference. 

If made in the proper manner and from suitable material, 
bread is, with the exception of milk, the article best fitted for 
the nourishment of the body, and if need be, can supply the 
place of all other foods. Good bread does not cloy the appe- 
tite as do many other articles of food, and the simplest bill of 



iSkl'lADSI'UKI'S ANIJ IlkMAD-MAKlNCJ. Ill 

fare whicli incliiclcs liijht, wholesome bread, is far more satisfy- 
ing than an cKiborate iiual without it. Were the tables of our 
land supplied with good, nutritious, vvell-baUed bread, there 
would be less desire for cake, pastry, and other indigestible 
articles, which, under the [)r(;scnt system of cookery, are allowed 
to compensate for the inferior quality and p(jor preparation of 
more wholesome foods. 

Bread has been proverbially styled the " staff of life." In 
nearly all ancient languages the etymology of the word 
"bread" signifies all, indicating that the bread of earlier 
periods was in truth what it should be at the present time, — 
a staff upon which all the functions of life might with safety 
depend. 

Notwithstanding the important part bread was designed 
to play in the economy of life, it would be hardly possible to 
mention another aliment which so universally falls below the 
standard, either through the manner of its preparation or in 
the material used. 

Bread, to answer the requirements of a good, wholesome 
article of food, beside being palatable, must be light, porous, 
and friable, so that it can be easily insalivated and digested. 
It should not contain ingredients which will in any way be 
injurious if taken into the system, but should contain as many 
as possible of the elements of nutrition. Wheat, the substance 
from which bread is most generally made, contains all the nec- 
essary food elements in proper proportions to meet the require- 
ments of nutrition, and bread should also contain them. The 
flour, however, must be made from the whole grain of the 
wheat, with the exception of the outer husk. 

What is ordinarily termed fine flour has a large part of the 
most nutritive properties of the grain left out, and unless this 
deficiency is made up by other foods, the use of bread made 
from such material will leave the most vital tissues of the 
body poorly nourished, and tend to produce innumerable bad 
results. People who eat bread made from fine white flour 
naturally crave the food elements which have been eliminated 
from the wheat, and are thus led to an excessive consumption 



H2 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of meat, and the nerve-starvation and consequent irritability 
thus induced may also lead to the use of alcoholic drinks. We 
believe that one of the strongest barriers women could erect 
against the inroads of intemperance would be to supply the 
tables of the land with good bread made from flour of the 
entire wheat. 

The superiority of bread made from the entire wheat or 
unbolted meal has been attested by many notable examples 
in history. In England, under the administration of William 
Pitt, there was for several years such a scarcity of wheat that 
to make it hold out longer, a law was passed by Parliament 
that the army should be supplied with bread made of unbolted 
flour. This occasioned much murmuring on the part of the 
soldiers, but nevertheless the health of the army improved so 
greatly as to be a subject of surprise. The officers and the 
physicians at last publicly declared that the soldiers had never 
before been so robust and healthy. 

According to the eminent Prof. Liebig, whole-wheat bread 
contains 60 per cent more of the phosphate or bone-forming ma- 
terial than does meat, and 200 per cent more gluten than white 
bread. To the lack of these elements in a food so generally 
used as white flour bread, is undoubtedly due the great preva- 
lence of early decaying teeth, rickets, and other bone diseases. 
Indeed, so many are the evils attendant upon a continued use 
of fine flour bread that we can in a great measure agree with a 
writer of the last century who says, in a quaint essay still to 
be seen at the British Museum, that " fine flour, spirituous liq- 
uors, and strong ale-house beer are the foundations of almost 
all the poverty and all the evils that affect the labouring part 
of mankind." 

Bread made from the entire wheat is looked upon with far 
more favor than formerly, and it is no longer necessary to use 
the crude products of the grain for its manufacture, since mod- 
ern invention has worked such a revolution in milling proc- 
esses that it is now possible to obtain a fine flour containing 
all the nutritious elements of the grain. The old-time millstone 
has been largely superceded by machinery with which the entire 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. II3 

grain may be reduced to fine flour without the loss of any of its 
valuable properties. To be sure, the manufacture of fine white 
flour of the old sort, is still continued, and doubtless will be 
continued so long as color takes precedence of food value. 
The improved processes of milling have, however, enabled the 
millers to utilize a much larger proportion of the nutritious 
elements of the grain than formerly, and still preserve that 
whiteness so pleasing to many consumers. Although it is true 
that there are brands of white flour which possess a large per- 
centage of the nutrient properties of the wheat, it is likewise 
true that flour which contains a// the nutritive elements is noi 
white. 

Of flours made from the entire grain there are essentially two 
different varieties, that which is termed unbolted wheat meal or 
Graham flour, and that called zvheat-berty, whole-wheat, or entire- 
wheat flour. The principal difference between the two consists 
in the preliminary treatment of the wheat kernel before reduc- 
tion, Graham flour containing more or less of the flinty bran, 
which is wholly innutritions and to a sensitive stomach some- 
what irritating. In the manufacture of whole or entire-w\\.e.dX 
flour, the outer, flinty bran is first removed by special machinery, 
and then the entire grain pulverized, by some approved method, 
to different grades of fineness. The absence of the indigestible 
bran renders the entire-wheat flour superior in this respect to 
Graham, though for many persons the latter is to be preferred. 

How to Select Flour. — The first requisite in the making 
of good bread is good flour. The quality of a brand of flour 
will of course depend much upon the kind of grain from which 
it is prepared — whether new or old, perfect, or deteriorated by 
rust, mold, or exposure, and also upon the thoroughness with 
which it has been cleansed from dust, chaff, and all foreign 
substances, as well as upon the method by which it is ground. 
It is not possible to judge with regard to all these particulars 
by the appearance of the flour, but in general, good flour will 
be sweet, dry, and free from any sour or musty smell or taste. 
Take up a handful, and if it falls from the hand light and elas- 
tic, it is pretty sure to be good. If it will retain the imprint 
8 



114 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of the fingers and falls in a compact mass, or is damp, clammy, 
or sticky to the touch, it is by no means the best. Wet and 
knead a little of it between the fingers ; if it works soft and 
sticky, it is poor. Good flour, when made into dough, is elas- 
tic, and will retain its shape. This elastic property of good 
flour is due to the gluten which it contains. The more gluten 
and the stronger it is, the better is the flour. The gluten of 
good flour will swell to several times its original bulk, while 
that of poor flour will not. 

In buying white flour, do not select that which is pure 
white with a bluish tinge, but that which is of a creamy, 
yellowish-white tint. While the kinds of flour that contain 
the entire nutritive properties of the wheat will necessarily be 
darker in color, we would caution the reader not to suppose 
that because flour is dark in color it is for that reason good, 
and rich in nutritive elements. There are many other causes 
from which flour may be dark, such as the use of uncleansed 
or dark varieties of wheat, and the large admixture of bran 
and other grains ; many unscrupulous millers and flour dealers 
make use of this fact to palm off upon their unsuspecting cus- 
tomers an inferior article. Much of the so-called Graham flour 
is nothing more than poor flour mixed with bran, and is in 
every way inferior to good white flour. Fine flour made from 
the entire wheat may generally be distinguished from a spu- 
rious article by taking a small portion into the mouth and 
chewing it. Raw flour made from the entire grain has a sweet 
taste, and a rich, nutty flavor the same as that experienced in 
chewing a whole grain of wheat, and produces a goodly quan- 
tity of gum or gluten, while a spurious article tastes flat and 
insipid like starch, or has a bitter, pungent taste consequent 
upon the presence of impurities. This bitter taste is noticeable 
in bread made from such flour. A given quantity of poor flour 
will not make as much bread as the same quantity of good 
flour, so that adulteration may also be detected in this way. 
Doubtless much of the prejudice against the use of whole- 
wheat flour has arisen from the use of a spurious article. 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. II5 

As it is not always possible to determine accurately with- 
out the aid of chemistry and a microscope whether flour is 
genuine, the only safe way is to purchase the product of reli- 
able mills. 

It is always best to obtain a small quantity of flour first, 
and put it to the test of bread-making ; then, if satisfactory, 
purchase that brand so long as it proves good. It is true 
economy to buy a flour known to be good even though it 
may cost more than some others. It is not wise to purchase 
too large a quantity at once unless one has exceptionally good 
facilities for storage, as flour is subject to many deteriorating 
influences. It is estimated that a barrel of good flour contains 
sufficient bread material to last one person one year ; and from 
this standard it can be easily estimated in what proportion it 
is best to purchase. 

To Keep Flour. — Flour should always be kept in a tight 
receptacle, and in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. It should 
not be allowed to remain in close proximity to any substances 
of strong odor, as it very readily absorbs odors and gaseous im- 
purities. A damp atmosphere will cause it to absorb moisture, 
and as a result the gluten will lose some of its tenacity and be- 
come sticky, and bread made from the flour will be coarser 
and inferior in quality. Flour which has absorbed dampness 
from any cause should be sifted into a large tray, spread out 
thin and exposed to the hot sun, or placed in a warming oven 
for a few hours. 

Deleterious Adulterations of Flour. — Besides the fraud 
frequently practiced of compounding whole-wheat flour from 
inferior mill products, white flour is sometimes adulterated — 
more commonly, however, in European countries than in this 
— with such substances as alum, ground rice, plaster of Paris, 
and whiting. Alum is doubtless the most commonly used of 
all these substances, for the reason that it gives the bread a 
whiter color and causes the flour to absorb and retain a larger 
amount of water than it would otherwise hold. This enables 
the user to make, from an inferior brand of flour, bread which 



Il6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

resembles that made from a better quality. Such adulteration 
is exceedingly injurious, as are other mineral substances used 
for a similar purpose. 

The presence of alum in flour or bread may be detected in 
the following way: Macerate a half slice of bread in three or 
four tablespoonfuls of water ; strain off the water, and add to it 
twenty drops of a strong solution of logwood, made either from 
the fresh chips or the extract. Then add a large teaspoonful 
of a strong solution of carbonate of ammonium. If alum is 
present, the mixture will change from pink to lavender blue. 

The Journal of Trade gives the following simple mode of 
testing for this adulterant : " Persons can test the bread they 
buy for themselves, by taking a piece of it and soaking it in 
water. Take this water and mix it with an equal part of fresh 
milk, and if the bread contains alum, the mixture will coagulate. 
If a better test is required, boil the mixture, and it will form a 
perfect clot." 

Whiting can be detected by dipping the ends of the thumb 
and forefinger in sweet oil and rubbing the flour between them. 
If whiting is present, the flour will become sticky like putty, 
and remain white ; whereas pure flour, when so rubbed, be- 
comes darker in color, but not sticky. Plaster of Paris, chalk, 
and other alkaline adulterants may be detected by a few drops 
of lemon juice : if either be present, effervescence will take 
place. 

Chemistry of Bread=Making. — Good flour alone will not 
insure good bread. As much depends upon its preparation as 
upon the selection of material ; for the very best of flour may 
be transformed into the poorest of bread through improper or 
careless preparation. Good bread cannot be produced at ran- 
dom. It is not the fruit of any luck or chance, but the prac- 
tical result of certain fixed laws and principles to which all 
may conform. 

The first step in the conversion of flour into bread is to 
incorporate with it a given amount of fluid, by which each atom 
of flour is surrounded with a thin film of moisture, in order to 
hydrate the starch, to dissolve the sugar and albumen, and to 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 11/ 

develop the adhesiveness of the gluten, thus binding the whole 
into one coherent mass termed dough, a word from a verb 
meaning to wet or moisten. If nothing more be done, and 
this simple form of dough be baked, the starch granules will 
be ruptured by the heat and thus properly prepared for food ; 
but the moistening will have developed the glue-like property 
of the gluten to the extent of firmly cementing the particles of 
flour together, so that the mass will be hard and tough, and 
almost incapable of mastication. If, however, the dough be 
thoroughly kneaded, rolled very thin, made into small cakes, 
and then quickly baked with sufficient heat, the result will be 
a brittle kind of bread termed unleavened bread, which, 
although it requires a lengthy process of mastication, is more 
wholesome and digestible than soft bread, which is likely to be 
swallowed insufficiently insalivated. 

The gluten of wheat flour, beside being adhesive, is likewise 
remarkably elastic. This is the reason why wheat flour is much 
more easily made into light bread than the product of other 
cereals which contain less or a different quality of gluten. 
Now if while the atoms of flour are supplied with moisture, 
they are likewise supplied with some form of gaseous sub- 
stance, the elastic walls of the gluten cells will become dis- 
tended, causing the dough to "rise," or grow in bulk, and at 
the same time become light, or porous, in texture. 

This making of bread light is usually accomplished by the 
introduction of air into the dough, or by carbonic acid gas 
generated within the mass, either before or during the baking, 
by a fermentative or chemical process. 

When air is the agency used, the gluten, by its glue-like 
properties, catches and retains the air for a short period ; and 
if heat is applied before the air, which is lighter than the 
dough, rises and escapes, it will expand, and in expanding 
distend the elastic glutinous mass, causing it to pufl*up or rise. 
If the heat is sufficient to harden the gluten quickly, so that 
the air cells throughout the whole mass become firmly fixed 
before the air escapes, the result will be a light, porous bread. 
If the heat is not sufficient, the air does not properly expand ; 



Il8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

or if before a sufficient crust is formed to retain the air and 
form a framework of support for the dough, the heat is less- 
ened or withdrawn, the air will escape, or contract to its former 
volume, allowing the distended glutinous cell walls to collapse ; 
in either case the bread will be heavy. 

If carbonic acid gas, generated within the dough by means 
of fermentation or by the use of chemical substances, be the 
means used to lighten the mass, the gluten by virtue of its 
tenacity holds the bubbles of gas as they are generated, and 
prevents the large and small ones from uniting, or from rising 
to the surface, as they seek to do, being lighter than the dough. 
Being thus caught where they are generated, and the proper 
conditions supplied to expand them, they swell or raise the 
dough, which is then termed a loaf. (This word "loaf" is from 
the Anglo-Saxon hlifian, to raise or lift up.) The structure is 
rendered permanent by the application of heat in baking. 

BREAD MADE LIGHT BY FERMENTATION. 

For general use, the most convenient form of bread is 
usually considered to be that made from wheat flour, raised 
or made light by some method of fermentation, although in 
point of nutritive value and healthfulness, it does not equal 
light, unfermented, or aerated bread made without the aid of 
chemicals. 

The Process of Fermentation. — Fermentation is a proc- 
ess of decomposition, and hence more or less destructive to the 
substances subjected to its influence. When animal and vege- 
table substances containing large amounts of nitrogenous ele- 
ments are in a moist state and exposed to air, they very soon 
undergo a change, the result of which is decomposition or 
decay. This is occasioned by the action of germs, which feed 
upon nitrogenous substances, as do the various species of fungi. 
Meat, eggs, milk, and other foods rich in nitrogenous elements 
can be preserved but a short time if exposed to the atmos- 
phere. The carbonaceous elements are different in this re- 
spect. When pure starch, sugar, or fat is exposed to the air 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 1 19 

in a moistened state, they exhibit very little tendency to 
change or decay. Yet if placed in contact with decompos- 
ing substances containing nitrogen, they soon begin to change, 
and are themselves decomposed and destroyed. This com- 
munication of the condition of change from one class of sub- 
stances to another, is termed fermentation. If a fermenting 
substance be added to a watery solution containing sugar, 
the sugar will be changed or decomposed, and two new sub- 
stances, alcohol and carbonic acid gas, are produced. 

The different stages of fermentation are known scientifically 
as alcoholic, acetous, and putrefactive. The first is the name 
given to the change which takes place in the saccharine matter 
of the dough, which results in the formation of alcohol and 
carbonic acid gas. This same change takes place in the sac- 
charine matter of fruits under the proper conditions of warmth, 
air, and moisture, and is utilized in the production of wines 
and fermented liquors. 

In bread-making, the alcohol and carbonic acid gas produced 
during the fermentation, are formed from sugar, — that originally 
contained in the flour and the additional quantity formed from 
starch during the fermenting process. It is evident, therefore, 
that bread cannot be fermented without some loss in natural 
sweetness and nutritive value, and bread made after this method 
should be managed so as to deteriorate the material as little as 
possible. 

If this fermentation continues long enough, the acetous 
fermentation is set up, and acetic acid, the essential element 
of vinegar, is formed, and the dough becomes sour. If the 
process of fermentation is very much prolonged, the putrefactive 
change is set up, and the gluten is more or less decomposed. 

If the dough be baked during the alcoholic and carbonic- 
acid stage of fermentation, the gas will render the loaf light and 
porous. The alcohol will be dissipated by the heat during the 
baking, or evaporated shortly afterward, provided the baking 
be thorough. If the fermentation is allowed to proceed until the 
acetous fermentation has begun, the loaf, when baked, will be 
"sad" and heavy, since there is no longer any gas to puff it up. 



I20 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

If, however, during the first or alcoholic stage of fermentation, 
new material be added, the same kind of fermentation will con- 
tinue for a certain period longer. 

These facts serve to show that great care and attention are 
necessary to produce good bread by a fermentative process. If 
the fermentation has not been allowed to proceed far enough 
to generate a sufficient amount of gas to permeate the whole 
mass, the result will be a heavy loaf; and if allowed to pro- 
ceed too far, acid fermentation begins, the gas escapes, and we 
have sour as well as heavy bread. It is not enough, however, 
to prevent bread from reaching the acetous or sour stage offer- 
mentation. Bread may be over-fermented when there is no ap- 
preciable sourness developed. Fermentation may be carried so 
far as to destroy much of the richness and sweetness of the 
loaf, and yet be arrested by the baking process just before the 
acetous stage begins, so that it will be light and porous, but de- 
cidedly lacking in flavor and substance. Over-fermentation 
also develops in the bread various bitter substances which 
obscure the natural sweetness of the bread and give to it an 
unpleasant flavor. Many of these substances are more or less 
harmful in character, and include many poisons known as 
ptomaines, a class of chemical compounds produced by germs 
whenever fermentation or decomposition of organic matter 
takes place. Much skill is required to determine at what 
point to arrest the fermentation, in order to save the sweetness 
and richness of the bread. 

Fermentative Agents. — Fermentation in vegetable mat- 
ter is always accompanied by the growth of living organisms. 
The development of these minute organisms is the exciting 
cause of fermentation and putrefaction. The germs or spores 
of some of these fermenting agents are always present in the 
air. It is well known to housekeepers that if a batter of flour 
and water and a little salt be kept in a jar of water at a tem- 
perature of from ioo° to II0°, it will ferment in the course of 
five or six hours. Scientists assure us that this fermentation is 
occasioned by the introduction of the spores of certain species 
of fungi which are continually floating in the atmosphere, and 



i;ri:ai)S rui'Ks and uread-making. 121 

the proper conditions of warmth and moisture being supplied, 
they at once begin to grow and multiply. This method of se- 
curing fermentation is utilized by housewives in making what 
is termed salt-rising bread. The raising of dough by this proc- 
ess is lengthy and uncertain, and a far more convenient 
method is to accelerate the fermentation by the addition of 
some active ferment. The ancient method of accomplishing 
this was by adding to the dough a leaven, a portion of old 
dough which had been kept until it had begun to ferment ; but 
since the investigations of modern chemistry have made clear 
the properties of yeast, that has come to be considered the best 
agent for setting up the process of alcoholic fermentation in 
bread. The use of leaven is still practiced somewhat in some 
European countries. The bread produced with leaven, al- 
though light and spongy in texture, has an unpleasant, sour 
taste, and is much less wholesome than that produced with 
fresh yeast. 

Yeast is a collection of living organisms or plants belonging 
to the family of fungi, which, like all other plants, require 
warmth, moisture, and food, in order to promote growth, and 
when properly supplied with these, they begin to grow and multi- 
ply rapidly. Fermentation will not take place at a temperature 
below 30°, it proceeds slowly at 45°, but from 70° to 90° it 
goes on rapidly. Fermentation may be arrested by the ex- 
haustion of either the fermenting agent or the food supply, or 
by exposure to heat at the temperature of boiling water. This 
latter fact enables the housewife to arrest the process of fer- 
mentation, when the loaf has become sufficiently light, by baking 
it in a hot oven. Heat destroys most of the yeast cells ; a few, 
however, remain in the loaf unchanged, and it is for this reason 
that yeast bread is considered less wholesome for dyspeptics 
than light unleavened bread. It is apparent, then, that the 
more thoroughly fermented bread is baked, the more whole- 
some it will be, from the more complete destruction of the 
yeast germs which it contains. 

Yeast. — Next to good flour, the most important requisite 
in the manufacture of fermented bread is good yeast. The best 



122 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of flour used in conjunction with poor yeast will not produce 
good bread. The most convenient and reliable kind of mar- 
ketable yeast, when fresh, is the compressed yeast. The dry 
yeast cakes sold at the stores are less to be recommended ; for, 
though they are always ready for use, the quality of the bread 
they produce is generally inferior to that made with either 
compressed yeast or good liquid yeast. If this sort of yeast 
must be depended upon, the cakes known as " Yeast Foam '' 
are the best of any with which we are acquainted. 

Of homemade yeasts there are almost as many varieties as 
there are cooks. Their comparative value depends mainly 
upon the length of time they will keep good, or the facility 
with which they can be prepared. Essentially the same prin- 
ciples are involved in the making of them all ; viz., the intro- 
duction of a small quantity of fresh, lively yeast into a mixture 
of some form of starch (obtained from flour, potato, or a com- 
bination of both) and water, with or without the addition of 
such other substances as will promote fermentation, or aid in 
preventing the yeast from souring. Under proper conditions 
of warmth, the small amount of original yeast begins to supply 
itself with food at once by converting the starch into dextrine, 
and then into grape sugar, and multiplies itself with great 
rapidity, and will continue to do so as long as there is material 
to supply it with the means of growth. While its growth is 
rapid, its decay is equally so ; and unless some means of preser- 
vation be employed, the yeast will die, and the mixture become 
sour and foul. Ordinarily it can be kept good for several days, 
and under the best conditions, even three or four weeks. After 
it has been kept from four to six hours, it should be placed in 
some receptacle as nearly air-tight as possible and set in the 
cellar or refrigerator, where it can be kept at a temperature not 
conducive to fermentation. Thus the little yeast organisms 
will remain in a quiescent state, but yet alive and capable of 
multiplying themselves when again surrounded with favorable 
conditions. 

The yeast should be kept in glass or glazed earthen ware. 
The vessel containing it should be washed and scalded with 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 123 

scrupulous care before new yeast is put in, since the smallest 
particle of sour or spoiled yeast will ruin the fresh supply in a 
very short time. It is generally conceded that yeast will keep 
longer if the material of which it is made be mixed with liquid 
of a boiling temperature, or cooked for a few minutes at boiling 
heat before adding the yeast. The reason for this undoubtedly 
lies in the fact that the boiling kills foreign germs, and thus pre- 
vents early souring or putrefaction. The yeast must not be 
added, however, until the liquid has cooled to a little more 
than blood heat, as too great heat will kill the yeast cells. 

The starch of the potato is thought to furnish better mate- 
rial for the promotion of yeast growth than that of wheat flour ; 
but whether the potato be first cooked, mashed, and then com- 
bined with the other ingredients, or grated raw and then 
cooked in boiling water, makes little difference so far as results 
are concerned, though the latter method may have the advan- 
tage of taking less time. If potatoes are used for this purpose, 
they should be perfectly mature. New ones will not answer. 

Sugar assists in promoting the growth of the yeast plant, 
and a small amount is usually employed in making yeast. 
Hops serve to prevent the yeast from souring, and an infusion 
of them is frequently used for this purpose. 

While it is essential that the water used should be boiling, 
it is also necessary that the mixture should cool to a lukewarm 
temperature before the introduction of the original yeast, as 
intense heat will kill the yeast plant. Freezing cold will like- 
wise produce the same result. While a cool temperature is one 
of the requisites for keeping yeast fresh, care must be taken, 
especially in winter, that it does not get chilled. 

When yeast is needed for bread, it is always the best plan 
to take a cup to the cellar or refrigerator for the desired quan- 
tity, and re-cover the jar as quickly as possible. A half hour in 
a hot kitchen would be quite likely to spoil it. Always shake 
or stir the whole well before measuring out the yeast. In 
making yeast, use earthen bowls for mixing, porcelain-lined or 
granite-ware utensils for boiling, and silver or wooden spoons 
for stirrine. 



124 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Bitter Yeast. — It sometimes happens that an excessive 
use of hops in the making of yeast gives to it so bitter a flavor 
as to comrnunicate a disagreeable taste to the bread. To cor- 
rect this bitterness, mix with the yeast a considerable quantity 
of water, and let it stand for some hours, when the thickest 
portion will have settled at the bottom. The water, which 
will have extracted much of the bitterness, can then be turned 
off and thrown away. Yeast also sometimes becomes bitter 
from long keeping. Freshly burnt charcoal thrown into the 
yeast is said to absorb the odors and offensive matter and 
render the yeast more sweet ; however, we do not recommend 
the use of any yeast so stale as to need sweetening or purify- 
ing. Yeast that is new and fresh is always best ; old and stale 
yeast, even though it may still possess the property of raising 
the dough, will give an unpleasant taste to the bread, and is 
much less wholesome. 

Tests for Yeast. — Liquid yeast, when good, is light in 
color and looks foamy and effervescent ; it has a pungent odor 
somewhat similar to weak ammonia, and if tasted will have a 
sharp, biting flavor. Yeast is poor when it looks dull and 
watery, and has a sour odor. Compressed yeast, if good, 
breaks off dry and looks white ; if poor, it appears moist and 
stringy. 

If there is any question as to the quality of yeast, it is 
always best to test it before use by adding a little flour to a 
small quantity and setting it in a warm place. If it begins to 
ferment in the course of fifteen or twenty minutes, it is good. 

Starting the Bread. — Having secured good yeast, it is nec- 
essary in some way to diffuse it throughout the bread material 
so that it will set up an active fermentation, which, by the 
evolution of gas, will render the whole mass light and porous. 
As fermentation is more sure, more rapid, and requires less 
yeast to start it when set in action in a thin mixture than when 
introduced into stiff dough, the more common method of start- 
ing fermented bread is by " setting a sponge ; " viz., preparing a 
batter of flour and liquid, to which potato is sometimes added, 
and into which the }'east is introduced. Some cooks, in mak- 



BKEADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 12$ 

tng the batter, use the whole amount of liquid needed for the 
bread, and as the sponge rises, add flour in small quantities, 
beating it back, and allowing it to rise a second, third, or even 
fourth time, until sufficient flour has been added to knead ; 
others use only half the liquid in preparing the sponge, and 
when it has well risen, prepare a second one by adding the 
remainder of the liquid and fresh flour, in which case the fer- 
mented batter acts as a double portion of yeast and raises the 
second sponge very quickly. The requisite amount of flour is 
then added, the dough kneaded, and the whole allowed to rise 
a third time in the loaf. Other cooks dispense altogether with 
the sponge, adding to the liquid at first the requisite amount of 
flour, kneading it thoroughly and allowing it to rise once in mass 
and again after molding into loaves. As to the superiority of 
one method over another, much depends upon their adaptability 
to the time and convenience of the user ; light bread can be 
produced by either method. Less yeast but more time will be 
required when the bread is started with a sponge. The end to 
be attained by all is a complete and equal diffusion of gas bub- 
bles generated during fermentation throughout the whole mass 
of dough. 

The preferable method of combining the materials needed 
for the batter is by first mingling the yeast with the water or 
milk. If condensed or dry yeast is used, previously dissolve 
it well in a half cupful or less of lukewarm water. Stir the 
flour slowly into the liquid mixture, and beat it very tJioronghly 
so that the yeast shall be evenly distributed throughout the 
whole. 

Proportion of Materials Needed. — The material needed 
for making the bread should all be carefully measured out be- 
forehand and the flour well sifted. Many housekeepers fail 
in producing good bread, because they guess at the quantity of 
material to be used, particularly the flour, and with the same 
quantity of liquid will one time use much more flour than at 
another, thus making the results exceedingly variable. With 
the same brand of flour, the same quantity should always be 
used to produce a given amount of bread. This amount will de- 



126 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

pend upon the quality of the material used. Good flour will absorb 
a larger quantity of liquid than that of an inferior quality, and 
the amount of liquid a given quantity of flour will take up de- 
termines the quantity of bread that can be produced from it. 
This amount is chiefly dependent upon the proportion of gluten 
contained in the flour. One hundred pounds of good flour will 
absorb sufficient water to produce one hundred and fifty pounds 
of bread. One reason why bread retains so much water is 
that during the baking a portion of starch is converted into 
gum, which holds water more strongly than starch. Again : the 
gluten, when wet, is not easily dried, while the dry crust which 
forms around the bread in baking is nearly impervious to 
water, and, like the skin of a baking potato, prevents the 
moisture from escaping. 

Kinds of flour vary so considerably in respect to their ab- 
sorbent properties that it is not possible to state the exact 
proportions of flour and liquid required ; approximately, three 
heaping measures of flour for one scant measure of liquid, in- 
cluding the yeast, will in general be found a good proportion. 
Bread made from the entire wheat will require from one half to 
one cupful less flour than that made of white flour. A quart of 
liquid, including the yeast, is sufficient for three ordinary-sized 
loaves. One half or two thirds of a cup of homemade yeast, 
according to its strength, or one half a cake of compressed 
yeast dissolved in a half cup of lukewarm water, will be suffi- 
cient for one quart of liquid. It is a common mistake to use 
too much yeast. It lessens the time required, but the result is 
less satisfactory. Bread to be set over night requires less yeast. 

Whether water or milk should be used for bread-making, 
depends upon taste and convenience. Bread retains more 
nearly the natural flavor of the grain if made with water, 
and is less apt to sour ; at the same time, bread made 
with milk is more tender than that made with water. Bread 
made with milk requires from one half to one cupful less 
of flour. 

Potatoes are sometimes used in conjunction with flour for 
bread-making. They are by no means necessary when good 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 



127 



flour is used, but bread made from inferior flour is improved 
by their use. Only potatoes that are fully matured should 
be used for this purpose, and they should be well cooked and 
smoothly mashed. Neither sugar nor salt is essential for the 
production of good bread, though most cook books recommend 
the use of one or both. The proportion of the former should 
not exceed one even tablespoonful to three pints of flour, and 
the very smallest amount of salt, never more than a half tea- 
spoonful, and better less. No butter or other free fat is re- 
quired ; the tenderness of texture produced by its use can be 
secured as well by the use of unskimmed milk and thorough 
kneading. 

Utensils. — For bread-making purposes, earthen or china 
ware is preferable to either tin or wooden utensils : being a 

poor conductor, it pro- 
tects the sponge from 

the cold air much 

more effectually than 

tin, and is much more 

easily kept clean and 

sweet than wood. The 

utensil should be kept 
exclusively for the purpose of bread-making, and should never 
be allowed to contain any sour substance. The bowl should be 
thoroughly scalded before and after each using. Use silver or 
granite-ware spoons for stirring the bread. Iron and tin discolor 
the sponge. For measuring the material, particularly the liquid 
and the yeast, half-pint cups, divided by marks into thirds and 
fourths, as shown in the cut, are especially serviceable. 

When to Set the Sponge. — The time to set the sponge 
for bread-making is a point each housekeeper must determine 
for herself. The fact before stated, that temperature controls 
the activity of fermentation, and that it is retarded or accel- 
erated according to the conditions of warmth, enables the 
housewife, by keeping the bread-mixture at a temperature of 
about 50° F., to set her bread in the evening, if desired, and 
find it light and ready for further attention in the morning. 





Measuring Cup. 



Me.isuring Cup. 



128 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

In winter, the sponge will need to be prepared early in the 
evening and kept during the night at as even a temperature 
as possible. A good way to accomplish this is to cover the 
bowl with a clean napkin and afterwards wrap it about very 
closely with several folds of a woolen blanket. In extremely 
cold weather bottles of hot water may be placed around the 
bowl outside the wrappings. In case this plan is employed, 
care must be taken to have sufficient wrappings between the 
bread and the bottles to prevent undue heat, and the bottles 
should be covered with an additional blanket to aid in retain- 
ing the heat as long as possible. 

If the sponge is set in the evening, if in very warm 
weather, it should be started as late as practicable, and left in a 
rather cool place. Cover closely to exclude the air, but do not 
wrap in flannel as in winter. It will be likely to need atten- 
tion early in the morning. 

Temperature for Bread=Making. — Except in very warm 
weather, the ferment or sponge should be started with liquid at 
a lukewarm temperature. 

The liquid should never be so cold as to chill the yeast. 
Milk, if used, should be first sterilized by scalding, and then 
cooled before using. 

After the sponge is prepared, the greatest care must be 
taken to keep it at an equable temperature. From 70° to 90° 
is the best range of temperature, 75° being considered the 
golden mean throughout the entire fermentative process of 
bread-making. 

After fermentation has well begun, it will continue, but 
much more slowly if the temperature be gradually lowered to 
45° or 50°. If it is necessary to hasten the rising, the tempera- 
ture can be raised to 80° or 85°, but it will necessitate careful 
watching, as it will be liable to over-ferment, and become sour. 
Cold arrests the process of fermentation, while too great heat 
carries forward the work too rapidly. Too much stress cannot 
be laid upon the importance of an equable temperature. The 
housewife who permits the fermentation to proceed very slowly 
one hour, forces it rapidly by increased heat the next, and per- 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I29 

haps allows it to subside to a chilling temperature the third, 
will never be sure of good bread. 

Putting the bowl containing the sponge into a dish of warm 
(not hot) water, or keeping it in the warming oven, or on the 
back of the range, are all methods which may bring about good 
results, provided the same degree of heat can be maintained 
continuously ; but if the fire is one which must be increased or 
diminished to suit the exigencies of household details, nothing 
but the closest and most careful attention will keep the sponge 
at uniform temperature. The better way is to cover the bowl 
with a napkin, and in cold weather wrap closely in several 
thicknesses of flannel, and place on a stand behind the stove, 
or in some warm place not exposed to draughts. A bread- 
raiser purposely arranged for keeping the bread at proper tem- 
perature is a great convenience. Two small and rather thick 
earthen ware crocks of the same size, serve very well for this 
purpose. Scald both with hot water, and while still warm, put 
the sponge in one, invert the other one for a cover, and leave in 
a warm room. All flour used in the bread should be warm 
when added. 

Lightness of the Bread. — The time required for bread in 
its different stages to grow light will vary according to the 
quantity and strength of the yeast used and the amount of 
warmth supplied. A thin batter is light enough when in ap- 
pearance it resembles throughout a mass of sea foam. It will 
not greatly increase in bulk, but will be in a state of constant 
activity, sending up little bubbles of gas and emitting a sharp, 
pungent odor like fresh yeast. 

When the thicker batter or second sponge is sufficiently 
light, it will have risen to nearly double its original bulk and 
become cracked over the top like " crazed " china. It should 
never be allowed to rise to the point of sinking or caving in, 
and should be kneaded as soon as ready. If for any reason it 
is not possible to knead the bread at once when it has arrived 
at this stage, do not allow it to stand, but take a knife or spoon 
and gently beat it back a little. This dissipates some of the 
gas and reduces the volume somewhat. Let it rise again, 
9 



I30 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

which it will do in a short time, if it has not been allowed 
to become too light. If dough that has been kneaded and 
allowed to rise in mass, becomes sufficiently light at some in- 
opportune moment for shaping into loaves, it may be kept from 
becoming too light and souring, by taking a knife and cutting 
it away from the sides of the bowl and gradually working it 
over toward the center. Re-cover and put in a warm place. 
It will soon assume its former bulk. This "cutting down" may 
be repeated several times if necessary, provided the bread has 
not been allowed to become too light at any time, and some 
cooks recommend it as a uniform practice. We do not, how- 
ever, except in case of necessity ; since, though it may possibly 
make the bread more light, the long-continued fermenta- 
tion destroys more than is necessary of the food elements of 
the flour, and develops an unnecessary arhount of the products 
of fermentation. Lightness is not the only requisite for bread, 
and should be secured with as little deterioration of the flour 
as possible. 

An important point in the preparation of bread is to decide 
when it is sufficiently light after having been molded and 
placed in pans. The length of time cannot be given, because 
it will vary with the temperature, the quality of the flour, and 
the quantity added during the kneading. At a temperature of 
75°, an hour or an hour and a half is about the average 
length of time needed. A loaf should nearly double its size 
after being placed in a pan, before baking ; when perfectly 
risen, the bread feels light when lifted and weighed upon the 
hand. It is better to begin the baking before it has perfectly 
risen than to wait until it has become so light as to commence 
to fall, since if the fermentation proceeds too far, the sweetness 
of the grain will be destroyed, and the bread will be tasteless 
and innutritions, even if it does not reach the acetous stage. 

The exercise of a little judgment and careful attention to 
detail will soon enable a person successfully to determine the 
proper degree of lightness of bread in its various stages. Bread 
which passes the extreme point of fermentation, or in common 
phrase gets " too light," will have a strong acid odor, and will 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 131 

pull away from the bowl in a stringy mass, having a watery 
appearance very different from the fine, spongy texture of 
properly risen dough. The acidity of such dough may be 
neutralized by the addition of an alkali, and housewives who 
through carelessness and inattention have allowed their bread 
to become " sour," often resort to saleratus or soda to neutral- 
ize the acid. The result of such treatment is unwholesome 
bread, wholly unfit for food. It is better economy to throw 
away bread material which needs to be sweetened with soda 
than to run the risk of injury to health by using it. 

Kneading the Dough. — As fresh flour is added during the 
bread-making, it is necessary to mix it in thoroughly. As long 
as the batter is thin, this can be done by thoroughly beating 
the mixture with the addition of material ; but when it is a 
thick dough, some other method must be adopted to bring 
about the desired result. The usual way is by mixing the 
dough to a proper consistency, and working it with the hands. 
This is termed kneading. Much of the excellence of bread de- 
pends upon the thoroughness of this kneading, since if the yeast 
is not intimately and equally mixed with every particle of flour, 
the fermentation will not proceed evenly, and the porosity of 
the bread will not be uniform ; some portions will be heavy and 
compact, while others will be full of large, open cavities, from 
the excessive liberation of gas. 

The length of time required for kneading depends upon the 
perfection with which the yeast cells have been previously dif- 
fused throughout the sponge, and upon the quality of the flour 
used in preparing the bread, much less time being required for 
kneading dough made from good flour. Some consider an hour 
none too long to knead bread. Such a lengthy process may be 
advantageous, since one of the objects of kneading is to render 
the glutinous parts of the flour so elastic that the dough may 
be capable of expanding to several times its bulk without 
cracking or breaking, but excellent results can be obtained 
from good flour with less labor. Bread has been kneaded all 
that is necessary when it will work clean of the board, and 
when, after a smart blow with the fist in the center of the mass, 



132 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN, 

it will spring- back to its original shape like an India rubber 
ball. Its elasticity is the surest test of its goodness ; and when 
dough has been thus perfectly kneaded, it can be molded into 
any shape, rolled, twisted, or braided with ease. Chopping, 
cutting, stretching, and pulling the dough are other methods for 
accomplishing the same end. 

If a large mass is to be kneaded, it is better to divide it into 
several portions and knead each separately. It is less laborious 
and more likely to result in an equal diffusion of the yeast. 
Bread is often spoiled by the addition of too much flour during 
kneading. Dough should always be kneaded as soft as it can 
be handled, and only sufficient flour added to prevent its stick- 
ing to the board. Stiff bread is close in texture, and after a 
day or two becomes dry and hard. 

How to Manipulate the Dough in Kneading. — Sprinkle 
the board well with flour, and scrape the dough from the bowl 
with a knife. Dust the hands with flour, and then draw the 
dough with a rolling motion from the farthest side toward you, 
using the finger tips for the purpose, but pressing firmly down 
upon the rfiass with the palm of the hands. Reach forward 
again with the finger tips, and again press the ball of the hands 
upon the dough. Continue this process of manipulation until 
the mass is very much elongated ; then turn at right angles 
and repeat the process, taking care that the finger tips do not 
break through the light film which will form upon the outside 
of soft dough when well managed. Keep the dough constantly 
in motion until it is smooth, elastic, and fine-grained. The 
hands and the board may need a light dusting of flour at fre- 
quent intervals. If the dough sticks, lift it quickly, and clean 
the board, that it may be kept smooth. The dough will not 
stick if kept in constant motion. Do not rub off little wads of 
dough either from the hands or the board and keep kneading 
them into the loaf; they will seriously injure the uniform text- 
ure of the bread. 

How Many Times Shall Bread be Kneaded? — As the 
objects to be attained in kneading dough are to render the 



BREADSTIJFFS AXD BREAD-MAKING. I33 

gluten more elastic and thoroughly to diffuse the yeast, it 
will be seen that there has been sufficient kneading when all 
the flour necessary for the bread has been added. Further- 
more, it must be apparent that continued manipulation of the 
dough at this stage will dissipate and press out the little vesi- 
cles of gas held in place by the elastic gluten, and thus lose in 
part what so much pains has been taken to secure. At what- 
ever stage the requisite amount of flour be added, the dough 
should then be thoroughly kneaded once for all. If allowed 
to rise in bulk, when light it should be shaped into loaves with 
the greatest care, handled lightly, and worked as little as pos- 
sible, and if at all diminished, allowed to rise again before 
baking. 

Dryness of the Surface. — Bread in all stages should be 
covered over the top, since it rises much more evenly, and does 
not have a stiff", dried surface, as when placed in a warm place 
exposed to air. It sometimes happens that this precaution is 
forgotten or not sufficiently attended to, and a dry crust forms 
over the dough, which, if kneaded into the loaves, leaves hard, 
dry spots in the bread. In case of such a mishap, take the dry 
crust off, dissolve it in a little warm water, add flour enough to 
mold, make it into a small loaf, and raise it separately. 

Size of Loaves. — The lightness of the bread after baking 
depends upon the perfection with which the little air-cells, 
formed during the fermenting process, have become fixed by 
the heat during the baking. The heat expands the carbonic 
acid gas contained within the open spaces in the dough, and 
at the same time checks further development of gas by de- 
stroying the yeast plant. The sooner, then, that the cells can 
be made permanent after the arrest of fermentation, the more 
light and porous the bread will be. Although this fixing of 
the cells is largely dependent upon the degree of heat main- 
tained, it likewise in a measure depends upon the size of the 
loaf, as the heat will penetrate and fix the cells of a small loaf 
throughout much sooner than those of a large one. Therefore, 
bake in small loaves, and have a separate pan for each, as that 




134 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

admits of an equal degree of heat to all sides. This aids in a 
more rapid fixing of the air-cells and likewise gives more crust, 
which is the sweetest and most digestible part of the bread. 

Sheet-iron pans, about eight inches in length, four in width, 
and five in depth, are the most satisfactory. After the dough is 

molded, divide it into loaves 
which will fill such pans to the 
depth of two inches. Let them 
rise until double their first vol- 
ume, and then put into the oven. 
In baking, the loaves will rise 

Bread fa.n. .,,,., i • r i r 

still higher, and it about five 
inches high when done, will have expanded to about the right 
proportions. 

Proper Temperature of the Oven. — The objects to be 
attained in the baking of bread are to break up the starch 
and gluten cells of the flour so as to make them easily digesti- 
ble, to destroy the yeast plant, and render permanent the cells 
formed by the action of the carbonic acid gas. To accomplish 
well these ends, the loaf must be surrounded by a temperature 
ranging from 400° to 600°. The oven should be one in which 
the heat is equal in all parts, and which can be kept at a steady, 
uniform heat. Old-fashioned brick ovens were superior in this 
respect to most modern ranges. The fire for baking bread 
should be of sufficient strength to keep the oven heated for at 
least an hour. If the oven has a tendency to become too hot 
upon the bottom, a thin, open grate, broiler, or toasting rack, 
should be placed underneath the tins to allow a circulation of 
air and avoid danger of burning. If the heat be insufficient, 
fermentation will not cease until the bread has become sour ; 
the cells will be imperfectly fixed or entirely collapsed ; too 
little of the moisture will have evaporated, and the result will 
be a soft, wet, and pasty or sour loaf. If the heat be too great, 
the bread will be baked before it has perfectly risen, or a thick, 
burned crust will be produced, forming a non-conducting cover- 
ing to the loaf, which will prevent the heat from permeating the 
interior, and thus the loaf will have an overdone exteriori but 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 1 35 

will be raw and doughy within. If, however, the temperature of 
the oven be just right, the loaf will continue for a little time to 
enlarge, owing to the expansion of the carbonic acid gas, the 
conversion of the water into steam, and the vaporizing of the 
alcohol, which rises in a gaseous form and is driven off by 
the heat ; a nicely browned crust will be formed over the surface, 
the result of the rapid evaporation of water from the surface 
and consequent consolidation of the dough of this portion of 
the loaf, and a chemical change caused by the action of the 
heat upon the starch by which it is converted into dextrine, 
finally assuming a brown color due to the production of a sub- 
stance known to the chemist as assama. 

Bread is often spoiled in the baking. The dough may be 
made of the best of flour and yeast, mixed and kneaded in the 
most perfect manner, and may have risen to the proper degree 
of lightness before going to the oven, yet if the oven is either 
too hot or not hot enough, the bread will be of an inferior 
quality. 

Without an oven thermometer, there is no accurate means 
of determining the temperature of the oven ; but housekeepers 
resort to various means to form a judgment about it. The 
baker's old-fashioned method is to throw a handful of flour on 
the oven bottom. If it blackens without igniting, the heat is 
deemed sufficient. Since the object for which the heat is de- 
sired is to cook the flour, not to burn it, it might be supposed 
that this would indicate too high a temperature ; but the flour 
within the loaf to be baked is combined with a certain amount 
of moisture, thee vaporation of which lowers the temperature of 
the bread considerably below that of the surrounding heated 
atmosphere. The temperature of the inner portion of the loaf 
cannot exceed 212° so long as it continues moist. Bread 
might be perfectly cooked at this temperature by steam, but it 
would lack that most digestible portion of the loaf, the crust. 

A common way of ascertaining if the heat of the oven is 
sufificient, is to hold the bare arm inside it for a few seconds. 
If the arm cannot be held within while thirty is counted, it is 
too hot to begin with. The following test is more accurate : 



136 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

For rolls, the oven should be hot enough to brown a teaspoon- 
ful of flour in one minute, and for loaves \xvfive minutes. 

The temperature should be high enough to arrest the fer- 
mentation, which it will do at a point considerably below the 
boiling point of water, and at the same time to form a shell or 
crust, which will so support the dough as to prevent it from 
sinking or collapsing when the evolution of carbonic acid gas 
shall cease ; but it should not be hot enough to brown the 
crust within ten or fifteen minutes. The heat should increase 
for the first fifteen minutes, remain steady for the next fifteen 
minutes, and may then gradually decrease during the remain- 
der of the baking. If by any mischance the oven be so hot 
as to brown the crust too soon, cover the loaf with a clean 
paper for a few minutes. Be careful that no draught reaches 
the bread while baking ; open the oven door very seldom, and 
not at all for the first ten minutes. If it is necessary to turn 
the loaf, try to do so without bringing it to the air. From 
three fourths of an hour to an hour is usually a sufficient 
length of time to bake an ordinary sized loaf. Be careful 
not to remove the bread from the oven until perfectly done. 
It is better to allow it to bake ten minutes too long than not 
long enough. The crust of bread, when done, should be equally 
browned all over. 

The common test for well-baked bread is to tap it on the 
bottom with the finger ; if it is light and well done, it will 
sound hollow ; heavy bread will have a dull sound. A thor- 
oughly baked loaf will not burn the hand when lifted upon it 
from the pan. 

Care of Bread after Baking. — When done, remove the 
loaves from the tins, and tilt them upon edge so that the air 
may circulate freely on all sides of them to prevent " sweat- 
ing." Do not, however, lay them on a pine shelf or table to 
absorb the odor of the wood. A large tin dripping pan turned 
over upon the table does very well to tilt them on, if they are 
turned often, so that they will not soften on one side, but a fine 
wire bread cooler is the best thing. If this is not obtainable, a 



BREADSTUFKS AND MKKAI )-MAKlNG. 137 

fair substitute can be easily improvised by tacking window- 
screen wire to a light frame of sufficient size to hold the requi- 
site number of loaves. If the bread is left exposed to the air 
until cold, the crust will be crisp ; if a soft crust is desired, it 
can be secured by brushing the top of the loaf while hot, with 
tepid water, and covering with several thicknesses of a clean 
bread cloth. 

If by accident any portion of the crust is burnt, grate it 
away as soon as cold ; this is preferable to cutting or clipping 
it off 

Hcst Method of Kcepinii"; Bread. — When the bread is 
quite cold, put it away in a bread box, which should be of tin, 
or of wood lined with tin, convenient in form and supplied with 
a well-fitting cover. Never use an unlined wooden box of any 
kind, as it cannot easily be kept fresh and free from musty 
odors, which bread so readily absorbs. 

Stone and earthen ware are not open to this objection, but 
they are likely to collect moisture, and hence are not equal to 
a tin receptacle. Do not keep bread in the cellar or any other 
damp place, nor in a close closet, where there are other foods 
from which it can absorb odors. The bread box should be kept 
well covered, and free from crumbs and stale bits. It should 
be carefully washed in boiling soapsuds, scalded, and dried, 
every two or three days. If cloths are used to wrap or cover 
the bread, they too should be washed and scalded every week, 
and oftener if at any time the loaf about which they are 
wrapped becomes moldy or musty. 

Test of Good Fermented Bread. — A loaf of good bread, 
well risen and perfectly baked, may be taken in the hands, and, 
with the thumb on the top crust and fingers upon the bottom 
of the loaf, pressed to less than half its thickness, and when the 
pressure is removed, it will immediately expand like a sponge, 
to its former proportions. 

Good yeast bread, while it should be firm and preserve a 
certain amount of moisture, will, when cold, crumble easily 
when rubbed between the fingers. If, instead, it forms a close, 



138 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

soggy mass, it may be regarded as indigestible. This is one 
reason why hot, new yeast bread and biscuit are so indigesti- 
ble. In demonstration of this, take a small lump of new bread, 
gently roll it into a ball, and put into a glass of water, adding a 
similar quantity of stale bread of the same kind also. The lat- 
ter will crumble away very soon, w^hile the former will retain its 
form for hours, reminding one of its condition in the stomach, 
"as hard as a bullet," for a long time resisting the action of the 
gastric juice, although, meanwhile, the yeast germs which have 
not been killed in the oven are converting the mass into a lump 
of yeast, by which the whole contents of the stomach are soured. 
A soluble article like salt or sugar in fine powdered form is 
much more easily and quickly dissolved than the same article 
in solid lumps, and so it is with food. The apparent dryness 
of stale bread is not caused by loss of its moisture ; .for if care- 
fully weighed, stale bread will be found to contain almost ex- 
actly the same proportion of water as new bread that has 
become cold. The moisture has only passed into a state of 
concealment, as may be demonstrated by subjecting a stale loaf 
inclosed in a tightly-sealed receptacle to a temperature equal 
to boiling heat in an oven for half an hour, when it will again 
have the appearance of new bread. 

Hot bread eaten with butter is still more unwholesome, for 
the reason that the melted grease fills up the pores of the bread, 
and further interferes with the action of the digestive fluids. 

Whole=\Vheat and Graham Breads. — The same general 
principles are involved in the making of bread with whole- 
wheat and Graham flours as in the production of bread from 
white flour. Good material and good care are absolutely es- 
sential. 

Whole-wheat flour ferments more readily and rises more 
quickly than does white flour, hence bread made with it needs 
more careful management, as it is more liable to sour. The 
novice in bread-making should not undertake the preparation 
of bread with whole-wheat flour, until she has thoroughly 
mastered all the details of the art by practical experience, and 
can produce a perfect loaf from white flour. 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 139 

Breads from whole-wheat and Graham flours require less 
yeast and less flour than bread prepared from white flour. A 
slower process of fermentation is also advantageous. 

Such breads will be lighter if at least one third white flour 
be employed in their manufacture. When the bread is made 
with a sponge, this white flour may be utilized for the purpose. 
Thus the length of time the whole-wheat flour will be under- 
going fermentation will be somewhat lessened, and its liability 
to become sour diminished. This plan is a preferable one for 
beginners in bread-making. 

Graham and whole-wheat flour breads must be kneaded 
longer than white-flour bread, and require a hotter oven at 
first and a longer time for baking. Much Graham and whole- 
wheat bread is served insufficiently baked, probably owing to 
the fact that, being dark in color, the crust appears brown very 
soon, thus deluding the cook into supposing that the loaf is 
well baked. For thorough baking, from one to one and a 
half hours are needed, according to the size of the loaf and the 
heat of the oven. 

Toast. — Toasting, if properly done, renders bread more 
digestible, the starch being converted into dextrine by the 
toasting process ; but by the ordinary method of preparing 
toast, that of simply browning each side, only the surfaces of 
the slices are really toasted, while from the action of the heat 
upon the interior of the slice, it is rendered exactly in the con- 
dition of new bread, and consequently quite as indigestible. 
If butter is added while the toast is hot, we have all the dys- 
pepsia-producing elements of new bread and butter combined. 
Although considered to be the dish par excellence for invalids, 
nothing could be more unwholesome than such toast. To 
properly toast the bread, the drying and browning should ex- 
tend throughout the entire thickness of the slice. Bread may 
be thus toasted before an open fire, but the process would be 
such a lengthy and troublesome one, it is far better to secure 
the same results by browning the bread in a moderate oven. 

Such toast is sometimes called zwieback (twice baked), and 
when prepared from good whole-wheat bread, is one of the 



140 ^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

most nourishing and digestible of foods. Directions for its 
preparation and use will be found in the chapter on " Breakfast 
Dishes." 

Steamed Bread. — Steaming stale bread is as open to 
objection as the surface toasting of bread, if steamed so as to 
be yielding and adhesive. It is not, perhaps, as unwholesome 
as new bread, but bread is best eaten in a condition dry and 
hard enough to require chewing, that its starch may be so 
changed by the action of the saliva as to be easily digested. 

LIQUID YEAST. 

RECIPES. 

Raw Potato Yeast. — Mix one fourth of a cup of flour, the same of white 
sugar, and a teaspoonful of salt to a paste with a little water. Pare three 
medium-sized, fresh, and sound potatoes, and grate them as rapidly as pos- 
sible into the paste ; mix all quickly together with a silver spoon, then 
pour three pints of boiling water slowly over the mixture, stirring well at 
the same time. If this does not rupture the starch cells of the flour and 
potatoes so that the mixture becomes thickened to the consistency of 
starch, turn it into a granite-ware kettle and boil up for a minute, stirring 
well to keep it from sticking and burning. If it becomes too much thick- 
ened, add a little more boiling water. It is impossible to give the exact 
amount of water, since the quality of the flour will vary, and likewise the 
size of the potatoes ; but three pints is an approximate proportion. Strain 
the mixture through a fine colander into an earthen bread bowl, and let it 
cool. When lukewarm, add one cup of good, lively yeast. Cover with a 
napkin, and keep in a moderately warm place for several hours, or until it 
ceases to ferment. As it begins to ferment, stir it M^ell occasionally, and 
when well fermented, turn into a clean glass or earthen jar. The next 
morning cover closely, and put in the cellar or refrigerator, not, however, 
in contact with the ice. It is best to reserve enough for the first baking 
in some smaller jar, so that the larger portion need not be opened so soon. 
Always shake the yeast before using. 

Raw Potato Yeast No. 2. — This is made in the same manner as the 
preceding, with this exception, that one fourth of a cup of loose hops tied 
in a clean muslin bag, is boiled in the water for five minutes before pour- 
ing it into the potato and flour mixture. Many think the addition of the 
hops aids in keeping the yeast sweet for a longer period. But potato 
yeast may be kept sweet for two weeks without hops, if well cared for, 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I4I 

and is preferred by those who disHke the peculiar flavor of ths bread made 
from hop yeast. 

Hop Yeast. — Put half a cup of loose hops, or an eighth of an ounce of 
the pressed hops (put up by the Shakers and sold by druggists), into a 
granite-ware kettle ; pour over it a quart of boiling water, and simmer 
about five minutes. Meanwhile stir to a smooth paste in a tin basin or 
another saucepan, a cup of flour, and a little cold water. Line a colander 
with a thin cloth, and strain the boiling infusion of hops through it onto 
the flour paste, stirring continually. Boil this thin starch a few minutes, 
until it thickens, stirring constantly that no lumps be formed. Turn it 
into a large earthen bowl, add a tablespoonful of salt and two of 
white sugar, and when it has cooled to blood heat, add one half cup 
of lively yeast, stirring all well together. Cover the bowl with a napkin, 
and let it stand in some moderately warm place twenty-four hours, or 
until it ceases to ferment or send up bubbles, beating back occasionally as 
it rises ; then put into a wide-mouthed glass or earthen jar, which has been 
previously scalded and dried, cover closely, and set in a cool place. Yeast 
made in this manner will keep sweet for two weeks in summer and longer 
in winter. 

Boiled Potato Yeast. — Peel four large potatoes, and put them to boil 
in two quarts of cold water. Tie two loose handfuls of hops securely in 
a piece of muslin, and place in the water to boil with the potatoes. When 
the potatoes are tender, remove them with a perforated skimmer, leaving 
the water still boiling. Mash them, and work in four tablespoonfuls of 
flour and two of sugar. Over this mixture pour gradually the boiling hop 
infusion, stirring constantly, that it may form a smooth paste, and set it 
aside to cool. When lukewarm, add a gill of lively yeast, and proceed as 
in the preceding recipe. 

Boiled Potato Yeast No. 2. — To one teacupful of very smoothly mashed, 
mealy potato, add three teaspoonfuls of white sugar, one teaspoonful of 
salt, and one cup of lively yeast, or one cake of Yeast Foam, dissolved in 
a very little warm water. The potato should be warm, but not hot enough 
to destroy the yeast. Allow this to stand until light, when it is ready 
for use. 



142 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

FERMENTED BREADS. 

In the preparation of breads after the following recipes, 
the measure of flour should be heaping. 

RECIPES. 

Milk Bread with White Flour. — Scald and cool one pint of unskimmed 
milk. Add to the milk when lukewarm, one fourth of a cup, or three 
tablespoonfuls, of liquid yeast, and three cups of flour. Give the batter a 
vigorous beating, turn it into a clean bread bowl or small earthen crock, 
cover, and let it rise over night. In the morning, when well risen, add 
two or three cupfuls of warm flour, or sufficient to knead. Knead well 
until the dough is sufficiently elastic to rebound when struck forcibly with 
the fist. Allow it to rise again in mass ; then shape into loaves ; place in 
pans ; let it stand until light, and bake. If undesirable to set the bread 
over night, an additional tablespoonful or two of yeast may be used, to 
facilitate the rising. 

"Vienna Bread. — Into a pint of milk sterilized by scalding, turn a cup 
and a half of boiling water. When lukewarm, add one half cup of warm 
water, in which has been dissolved a cake of compressed yeast, and a quart 
of white flour. Beat the batter thus made very thoroughly, and allow it to 
rise for one hour ; then add white flour until the dough is of a consistency 
to knead. Knead well, and allow it to rise again for about three hours, or 
until very light. Shape into four loaves, handling lightly. Let it rise again 
in the pans, and bake. During the baking, wash the tops of the loaves 
with a sponge dipped in milk, to glaze them. 

Water Bread. — Dissolve a tablespoonful of sugar in a pint of boiling 
water.. When lukewarm, add one fourth of a cupful of liquid yeast, and 
sufficient flour to make a batter thick enough to drop from the spoon. 
Beat vigorously for ten minutes, turn into a clean, well-scalded bread 
bowl, cover (wrapping in a blanket if in cold weather), and let it rise 
over night. In the morning, when well risen, add flour to knead. Knead 
well for half an hour, cover, and let it become light in mass. When light, . 
shape into loaves, allow it to rise again, and bake. 

Fruit Roll. — Take some bread dough prepared as for Milk Bread, 
which has been sufficiently kneaded and is ready to mold, and roll 
to about one inch in thickness. Spread over it some dates which 
have been washed, dried, and stoned, raisins, currants, or chopped figs. 
Roll it up tightly into a loaf. Let it rise until very light, and bake. 

Fruit Loaf. — Set a sponge with one pint of rich milk, one fourth cup 
of yeast, and a pint of flour, over night. In the morning, add two cups of 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I43 

Zante currants, one cup of sugar, and three cups of flour, or enough to 
make a rather stiff dough. Knead well, and set to rise; when light, mold 
into loaves ; let it rise again, and bake. 

Potato Bread. — Cook and mash perfectly smooth, potatoes to make a 
cupful. Add a teaspoonful of best white sugar, one cup and a half of 
warm water, and when the mixture is lukewarm, one half cup of yeast, 
prepared as directed for Boiled Potato Yeast No. 2, and flour to make a 
very thick batter. Allow it to rise over night. In the morning, add a 
pint of warm water and flour enough to knead. The dough will need to 
be considerably stiffer than when no potato is used, or the result will be 
a bread too moist for easy digestion. Knead well. Let it rise, mold 
into four loaves, and when again light, bake. 

Pulled Bread. — Remove a loaf from the oven when about half 
baked, and lightly pull the partially set dough into pieces of irregular 
shape, about half the size of one's fist. Do not smooth or mold the pieces ; 
the rougher the shape the better. Place them on perforated tins, and 
bake in a slow oven until browned and crisp throughout. 

Whole- Wheat Bread. — The materials needed for the bread are : one 
pint of milk, scalded and cooled, one quart of wheat berry flour, one pint 
Minnesota spring wheat flour, one third cup of soft yeast, or one fourth 
cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in one third cup of cold water. Stir 
enough flour into the milk to make a stiff batter, put in the yeast, and let 
it rise until foamy. Have the milk so warm that, when the flour is put in, 
the batter will be of a lukewarm temperature. Wrap in a thick blanket, 
and keep at an equable temperature. When light, stir in, slowly, warm 
flour to make a soft dough. Knead for fifteen minutes, and return to 
the bowl (which has been washed and oiled) to rise again. When risen to 
double its size, form into two loaves, place in separate pans, let rise again, 
and bake from three fourths to one and one half hours, according to the 
heat of the oven. 

Whole-Wheat Bread No. 2. — Scald one pint of unskimmed milk ; when 
lukewarm, add one half cup of liquid yeast, or one fourth cake of com- 
pressed yeast, dissolved in one half cup of warm water, and a pint of Pills- 
bury's best white flour. Beat this batter thoroughly, and allow it to rise. 
When well risen, add three and two thirds cups of wheat berry flour. 
Knead thoroughly, and allow it to become light in- mass ; then shape into 
two loaves, allow it to rise again, and bake. 

Miss. B's One-Rising Bread. — Sift and measure three and three fourths 
cups of wheat berry flour. Scald and cool a pint of unskimmed milk. 
When lukewarm, add one tablespoonful of lively liquid yeast. By 
slow degrees add the flour, beating vigorously until too stiff to use a 
spoon, then knead thoroughly for half an hour, shape into a loaf, place 



144 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

in a bread pan, cover with a napkin in warm weather, wrap well with 
blankets in cold weather, and let rise over night. In the morning, when 
perfectly light, put in a well heated oven, and bake. 

Potato Bread with Wliole-Wheat Flour. — Take a half gill of liquid 
yeast made as for Boiled Potato Yeast No. 2, and add milk, sterilized and 
cooled to lukewarm, to make a pint. Add one cup of well-mashed, mealy 
potato and one cup of white flour, or enough to make a rather thick bat- 
ter. Beat thoroughly, cover, and set to rise. When well risen, add 
sufficient whole-wheat flour to knead. The quantity will vary somewhat 
with the brand of flour used, but about four and one fourth cupfuls will 
in general be needed. Knead well, let it rise in mass and again in the 
loaf, and bake. 

Rye Bread. — Prepare a sponge over night with white flour as for 
Water Bread. In the morning, when light, add another tablespoonful 
of sugar, and rye flour to knead. Proceed as directed for the Water 
Bread, taking care to use only enough rye flour to make the dough just 
stiff enough to mold. Use white flour for dusting the kneading board, as 
the rye flour is sticky. 

Grraham Bread. — Take two tablespoonfuls of lively liquid yeast, or a 
little less than one fourth cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in a little 
milk, and add new milk, scalded and cooled to lukewarm, to make one 
pint. Add one pint of white flour, beat very thoroughly, and set to rise. 
When very light, add three and one half cupfuls of sifted Graham flour, 
or enough to make a dough that can be molded. Knead well for half an 
hour. Place in a clean, slightly oiled bread bowl, cover, and allow it to 
rise. When light, shape into a loaf ; allow it to rise again, and bake. 

Graham Bread No. 2. — Mix well one pint of white and two pints of 
best Graham flour. Prepare a batter with a scant pint of milk, scalded 
and cooled, two tablespoonfuls of liquid yeast, or a little less than one 
fourth of a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of 
milk, and a portion of the mixed flour. Give it a vigorous beating, and 
put in a warm place to rise. When well risen, add more flour to make a 
dough sufficiently stiff to knead. There will be some variation in the 
amount required, dependent upon the brands of flour used, but in gen- 
eral, two and one half pints of the flour will be enough for preparing the 
sponge and kneading the dough. Knead thoroughly for twenty-five or 
thirty minutes. Put into a clean and slightly oiled bread bowl, cover, and 
set to rise again. When double its first bulk, mold into a loaf ; allow it to 
rise again, and bake. 

Oraham Bread No. 3. — Mix three pounds each of Graham and Minn- 
esota spring wheat flour. Make a sponge of one and a half pints of 
warm water, one half cake compressed yeast, well dissolved in the wa- 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I45 

ter, and flour to form a batter. Let this rise. When well risen, add 
one and a half pints more of warm water, one half ciipful of New Or- 
leans molasses, and sufficient flour to knead. Work the bread thor- 
oughly, allow it to rise in mass ; then mold, place in pans, and let it rise 
again. The amount of material given is sufficient for four loaves of bread. 

Raised Biscuit. — These may be made from dough prepared by any of 
the preceding recipes for bread. They will be more tender if made with 
milk, and if the dough is prepared expressly for biscuits, one third cream 
may be used. When the dough has been thoroughly kneaded the last 
time, divide into small, equal-sized pieces. A quantity of dough sufficient 
for one loaf of bread should be divided into twelve or sixteen such por- 
tions. Shape into smooth, round biscuits, fit closely into a shallow pan, 
and let them rise until very' light. Biscuit should be allowed to become 
lighter than bread before putting in the oven, since, being so much smaller, 
fermentation is arrested much sooner, and they do not rise as much in 
the oven as does bread. 

Rolls. — Well kneaded and risen bread dough is made into a variety of 
small forms termed rolls, by rolling with the hands or with a rolling-pin, 
and afterward cutting or folding into any shape desired, the particular 
manner by which they are folded and shaped giving to the rolls their 
characteristic names. Dough prepared with rich milk or part cream 
makes the best rolls. It may be divided into small, irregular portions, 
about one inch in thickness, and shaped by taking each piece separately 
in the left hand, then with the thumb and first finger of the right hand, 
slightly stretch one of the points of the piece and draw it over the left 
thumb toward the center of the roll, holding it there with the left thumb. 
Turn the dough and repeat the operation until you have been all around 
the dough, and each point has been drawn in ; then place on the pan 
to rise. Allow the rolls to become very light, and bake. Rolls prepared 
in this manner are termed Imperial Rolls, and if the folding has been 
properly done, when well baked they will be composed of a succession of 
light layers, which can be readily separated. 

French Rolls may be made by shaping each portion of dough into 
small oval rolls quite tapering at each end, allowing them to become light, 
and baking far enough apart so that one will not touch another. 

If, when the dough is light and ready to shape, it be rolled on the 
board until about one eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut into five-inch 
squares, then divided through the center into triangles, rolled up, be- 
ginning with the wide side, and placed in the pan to rise in semicircular 
shape, the rolls are called Crescents. 

What are termed Parker House Rolls may be made from well-risen 
dough prepared with milk, rolled upon the board to a uniform thickness of 
10 



146 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

about one-fourth inch ; cut into round or oval shapes with a cutter ; 
folded, one third over the other two thirds ; allowed to rise until very light, 
and baked. 

The light, rolled dough may be formed into a Braid by cutting into 
strips six inches in length and one in width, joining the ends of each three, 
and braiding. 

The heat of the oven should be somewhat greater for rolls and biscuit 
than for bread. The time required will depend upon the heat and the size 
of the roll, but it will seldom exceed one half hour. Neither rolls nor bis- 
cuit should be eaten hot, as they are then open to the same objections as 
other new yeast bread. 

Brown Bread. — To one and one fourth cups of new milk which has 
been scalded and cooled, add one fourth of a cup of lively yeast, three 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one cup each of white flour, rye flour or sifted 
rye meal, and yellow corn meal. With different brands of flour there may 
need to be some variation in the quantity of liquid to be used. The mixt- 
ure should be thick enough to shape. Allow it to rise until light and 
cracked over the top ; put into a bread pan, and when again well risen, 
bake for an hour and a half or two hours in an oven sufficiently hot at first 
to arrest fermentation and fix the bread cells, afterwards allowing the heat 
to diminish somewhat, to permit a slower and longer baking. Graham 
flour may be used in place of rye, if preferred. 

Date Bread. — Take a pint of light white bread sponge prepared with 
milk, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and Graham flour to make a very 
stiff batter. Add last a cupful of stoned dates. Turn into a bread pan. 
Let it rise, and bake. 

Fruit Loaf with Graham and Whole-Wheat Flour. — Dissolve one fourth 
cake of compressed yeast in a pint of sterilized milk ; add a pint of white 
flour ; beat thoroughly, and set to rise. When well risen, add three and 
one fourth cups of flour (Graham and whole-wheat, equal proportions, 
thoroughly mixed), or sufficient to knead. Knead well for half an hour, 
and just at the last add a cup of raisins, well washed, dried, and dusted 
with flour. Let the loaf rise in mass ; then shape, put in the pan, allow 
it to become light again, and bake. 

Raised Corn Bread. — Into two cupfuls of hot mush made from white 
granular corn meal, stir two cupfuls of cold water. Beat well, and add one 
half cup of liquid yeast, or one half cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in 
one half cup of warm water, and two teaspoonfuls of granulated sugar. 
Stir in white or sifted Graham flour to make it stiff enough to knead. 
Knead very thoroughly, and put in a warm place to rise. When light, 
mold into three loaves, put into pans, and allow it to rise again. When 
well risen, bake at lea^st for three fourths of an hour. 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 147 

Corn Cake. — Sterilize a cupful of rich milk or thin cream. Cool to 
lukewarm, and dissolve in it half a cake of compressed yeast. Add two 
small cupf uls of white flour ; beat very thoroughly, and put in a warm place 
to rise. When light, add a cup of lukewarm water or milk, and two cups 
of best yellow corn meal. Turn into a shallow square pan, and leave 
until again well risen. Bake in a quick oven. A tablespoonful of sugar 
may be added with the corn meal, if desired. 

Oatmeal Bread. — Mix a quart of well-cooked oatmeal mush with a 
pint of water, beating it perfectly smooth ; add a cupful of liquid yeast 
and flour to make a stiff batter. Cover, and let it rise. When light, 
add sufficient flour to mold ; knead as soft as possible, for twenty or thirty 
minutes ; shape into four or more loaves, let it rise again, and bake. 

Milk Yeast Bread. — Prepare the yeast the day before by scalding 
three heaping teaspoonfuls of fresh corn meal with boiling milk. Set in a 
warm place until light ( from seven to ten hours ) ; then put in a cool place 
until needed for use. Start the bread by making a rather thick batter 
with one cupful of warm water, one teaspoonful of the prepared yeast, 
and white flour. Put in a warm place to rise. When light, add to it a 
cupful of flour scalded with a cupful of boiling milk, and enough more 
flour to make the whole into a rather stiff batter. Cover, and allow it to 
rise. When again well risen, add flour enough to knead. Knead well ; 
shape into a loaf; let it rise, and bake. Three or four cupfuls of white 
flour will be needed for all purposes with the amount of liquid given ; more 
liquid and flour may be added in forming the second sponge if a larger 
quantity of bread is desired. In preparing both yeast and bread, all 
utensils used should first be sterilized by scalding in hot sal-soda water. 
Graham Salt-Rising' Bread. — Put two tablespoonfuls of milk into a 
half-pint cup, add boiling water to fill the cup half full, one half teaspoon- 
ful of sugar, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, and white flour to make a 
rather stiff batter. Let it rise over night. In the morning, when well 
risen, add a cup and a half of warm water, or milk scalded and cooled, 
and sufficient white flour to form a rather stiff batter. Cover, and 
allow it again to rise. When light, add enough sifted Graham flour to 
knead. When well kneaded, shaps into a loaf ; allow it to become light 
again in the pan, and bake. All utensils used should be first well ster- 
ilized by scalding in hot sal-soda water. 



148 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



UNFERMENTED BREADS. 

The earliest forms of bread were made without fermenta- 
tion. Grain was broken as fine as possible by pounding 
on smooth stones, made into dough with pure water, thoroughly 
kneaded, and baked in some convenient way. Such was the 
" unleavened bread " or " passover cakes " of the Israelites. In 
many countries this bread is the only kind used. Unleavened 




Mexican Woman Making Tortillas. 



bread made from barley and oats is largely used by the Irish 
and Scotch peasantry. In Sweden an unleavened bread is 
made of rye meal and water, flavored with anise seed, and 
baked in large, thin cakes, a foot or more in diameter. 

Some savage tribes subsist chiefly upon excellent corn 
bread, made simply of meal and water. Unleavened bread 
made of corn, called tortillas, forms the staple diet of the Mexi- 
can Indians. The corn, previously softened by soaking in 
lime water, is ground to a fine paste between a stone slab and 
foller called a metate, then patted and tossed from hand to 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 



149 



hand until flattened into thin, wafer-like cakes, and baked over 
a quick fire, on a thin iron jDlate or a flat stone. 

Unquestionably, unleavened bread, well kneaded and prop- 
erly baked, is the most wholesome of all breads, but harder to 
masticate than that made light by fermentation, but this is an 
advantage ; for it insures more thorough mixing with that im- 
portant digestive agent, the saliva, than is usually given to 
more easily softened food. 

What is usually termed unfermented bread, however, is 
prepared with flour and liquid, to which shortening of some 
kind is added, and the whole made light by the liberation of 
gas generated within the dough during the process of baking. 
This is brought about either by mixing with the flour certain 
chemical substances, 
which, when wet and 
brought into contact, 
act upon each other 
so as to set free car- 
bonic acid gas, which 
expands and puffs up 
the loaf; or by intro- 
ducing into the dough 
some volatile sub- 
stance, as carbonate 

of ammonia, which the heat during baking will cause to vapor- 
ize, and which in rising produces the same result. 

Carbonic acid gas may be for this purpose developed by the 
chemical decomposition of bicarbonate of potassa (saleratus), 
or bicarbonate of soda, by some acid such as sour milk, hydro- 
chloric acid, tartaric acid, nitrate of potassa, or the acid phos- 
phate of lime. 

The chemical process of bread-raising originally consisted 
in adding to the dough definite proportions of muriatic acid and 
carbonate of soda, by the union of which carbonic acid gas and 
common salt were produced. This process was soon aban- 
doned, however, on account of the propensity exhibited by the 
acid for eating holes in the fingers of the baker as well as in his 




Stone Metate. 



I50 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

bread pans ; and the more convenient one for hands and pans, 
that of using soda or saleratus with cream of tartar or sour 
milk, was substituted. When there is an excess of soda, a por- 
tion of it remains in the loaf uncombined, giving to the bread a 
yellow color and an alkaline taste, and doing mischief to the 
delicate coating of the stomach. Alkalies, the class of chem- 
icals to which soda and saleratus belong, when pure and strong, 
are powerful corrosive poisons. The acid used with the alkali 
to liberate the carbonic-acid gas in the process of bread-making, 
if rightly proportioned, destroys this poisonous property, and 
unites with it to form a new compound, which,, although not 
a poison, is yet unwholesome. 

We can hardly speak too strongly in condemnation of the 
use of chemicals in bread-making, when we reflect that the 
majority of housewives who combine sour milk and saleratus, 
or cream of tartar and soda, more frequently than otherwise 
guess at the proportions, or measure them by some " rule of 
thumb," without stopping to consider that although two cups 
of sour milk may at one time be sufficiently acid to neutralize 
a teaspoonful of saleratus, milk may vary in degree of acidity 
to such an extent that the same quantity will be quite insuffi- 
cient for the purpose at another time ; or that though a tea- 
spoonful of some brand of cream of tartar will neutralize a 
half teaspoonful of one kind of soda, similar measures will not 
always bring about the same result. Very seldom, indeed, will 
the proportions be sufficiently exact to perfectly neutralize the 
alkali, since chemicals are subject to variations in degree of 
strength, both on account of the method by which they are 
manufactured and the length of time they have been kept, to 
say nothing of adulterations to which they may have been sub- 
jected, and which are so common that it is almost impossible to 
find unadulterated cream of tartar in the market. 

Baking powders are essentially composed of bicarbonate of 
soda and cream of tartar, mixed in the proper proportions to 
exactly neutralize each other, and if they were always pure, 
would certainly be as good as soda and cream of tartar in 
any form, and possess the added advantage of perfect propor- 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 151 

tions ; but as was demonstrated not long ago by the govern- 
ment chemist, nearly every variety of baking powder in the 
market is largely adulterated with cheaper and harmful sub- 
stances. Alum, a most frequent constituent of such baking 
powders, is exceedingly injurious to the stomach. Out of 
several hundred brands of baking powder examined, only one 
was found pure. 

Even when in their purest state, these chemicals are not 
harmless, as is so generally believed. It is a very prevalent idea 
that when soda is neutralized by an acid, both chemical com- 
pounds are in some way destroyed or vaporized in the process, 
and in some occult manner escape from the bread during the 
process of baking. This is altogether an error. The alkali and 
acid neutralize each other chemically, but they do not destroy 
each other. Their union forms a salt, exactly the same as the 
Rochelle salts of medicine, a mild purgative, and if we could 
collect it from the bread and weigh or measure it, we would 
find nearly as much of it as there was of the baking powder in 
the first place. If two teaspoonfuls of baking powder to the 
quart of flour be used, we have remaining in the bread made 
with that amount of flour 165 grains of crystallized Rochelle 
salts, or 45 grains more than is to be found in a Seidlitz powder. 
It may be sometimes useful to take a dose of salts, but the 
daily consumption of such chemical substances in bread can 
hardly be considered compatible with the conditions necessary 
for the maintenance of health. These chemical substances are 
unusable by the system, and must all be removed by the liver 
and excretory organs, thus imposing upon them an extra and 
unnecessary burden. It has also been determined by scientific 
experimentation that the chemicals found in baking powders 
in bread retard digestion. 

These substances are, fortunately, not needed for the pro- 
duction of good light bread. The purpose of their use is the 
production of a gas ; but air is a gas much more economical and 
abundant than carbonic-acid gas, and which, when introduced 
into bread and subjected to heat, has the property of expand- 
ing, and in so doing, puffing up the bread and making it 



152 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 




light. Bread made light with air is vastly superior to that 
compounded with soda or baking powder, in point of health- 
fulness, and when well prepared, will equal it in lightness and 
palatableness. The only difficulty 
lies in catching and holding the air 
until it has accomplished the de- 
sired results. But a thorough un- 
derstanding of the necessary condi- 
tions and a little practice will soon 
enable one to attain sufficient skill ^'"^ ^'■°"'- 

in this direction to secure most satisfactory results. 

General Directions. — All materials used for making 
aerated bread should be of the very best quality. Poor flour 
will no,t produce good bread by this or by any other process. 
Aerated breads are of two kinds : those baked while in the form 
of a batter, and such as are made into a dough before baking. 
All breads, whether fermented or unfermented, are lighter 
if baked in some small form, and this is particularly true of un- 
fermented breads made light with air. For this reason, breads 

made into a dough are 
best baked in the form 
of rolls, biscuits, or 
crackers, and batter 
breads in small iron 
cups similar to those 
in the accompanying 
illustration. These 
cups or "gem irons" 
as they are sometimes 
called, are to be ob- 
tained in various 
shapes and sizes, but 
for this purpose the more shallow cups are preferable. For 
baking the dough breads a perforated sheet of Russia iron or 
heavy tin, which any tinner can make to fit the oven, is the 
most serviceable, as it permits the hot air free access to all 
sides of the bread at once. If such is not obtainable, the up- 



S 

TTtrflTlTTTTl 



Perforated Sheet Iron Pan for Rolls. 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 



153 



per oven grate, carefully washed and scoured, may be used. 
Perforated pie tins also answer very well for this purpose. 

The heat of the oven for baking should be sufficient to form 
a slight crust over all sides of the bread before the air escapes, 
but not sufficient to brown it within the first fifteen minutes. 
To aid in forming the crust on the sides and bottom of batter 
breads, the iron cups should be heated previous to introducing 




Making Unfermented Bread. 

the batter. The degree of heat required for baking will be 
abotit the same as for fermented rolls and biscuit, and the fire 
should be so arranged as to keep a steady but not greatly 
increasing heat. 

Air is incorporated into batter breads by brisk and con- 
tinuous agitating and beating ; into dough breads by thorough 
kneading, chopping, or pounding. 

Whatever the process by which the air is incorporated, it 
must be continuous. For this reason it is especially essential 



154 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

in making aerated bread that everything be in readiness before 
commencing to put the bread together. All the materials 
should be measured out, the utensils to be used in readiness, 
and the oven properly heated. Success is also dependent upon 
the dexterity with which the materials when ready are put 
together. Batter bread often proves a failure although the 
beating is kept up without cessation, because it is done slowly 
and carelessly, or interspersed with stirring, thus permitting 
the air to escape between the strokes. 

If the bread is to be baked at once, the greater the dispatch 
with which it can be gotten into a properly-heated oven the 
lighter it will be. Crackers, rolls, and other forms of dough 
breads often lack in lightness because they were allowed to 
stand some time before baking. The same is true of batter 
breads. If, for any reason, it is necessary to keep such breads 
for any length of time after being prepared, before baking, set 
the dish containing them directly on ice. 

The lightness of aerated bread depends not only upon the 
amount of air incorporated in its preparation, but also upon the 
expansion of the air during the baking. The colder the air, 
the greater will be its expansion upon the application of heat. 
The colder the materials employed, then, for the bread-making, 
the colder will be the air confined within it, and the lighter will 
be the bread. For this reason, in making batter bread, it will 
be found a good plan, when there is time, to put the materials 
together, and place the dish containing the mixture on ice for 
an hour or two, or even over night. When ready to use, beat 
thoroughly for ten or fifteen minutes to incorporate air, and 
bake in heated irons. Rolls and other breads made into a 
dough, may be kneaded and shaped and put upon ice to be- 
come cold. Thus treated, less kneading is necessary than when 
prepared to be baked at once. 

Many of the recipes given for the batter breads include 
eggs. The yolk is not particularly essential, and if it can be 
put to other uses, may be left out. The white of an egg, be- 
cause of its viscous nature, when beaten, serves as a sort of trap 
to catch and hold air, and added to the bread, aids in making it 



BREADSTUKFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 155 

light. Very nice light bread may be made without eggs, but the 
novice in making aerated breads will, perhaps, find it an advan- 
tage first to become perfectly familiar with the processes and 
conditions involved, by using the recipes with eggs before at- 
tempting those without, which are somewhat more dependent 
for success upon skill and practice. 

When egg is used in the bread, less heating of the irons will 
be necessary, and not so hot an oven as when made without. 

If the bread, when baked, appears light, but with large holes 
in the center, it is probable that either the irons or the oven 
was too hot at first. If the bread after baking, seems sticky or 
dough-like in the interior, it is an indication that either it was 
insufficiently baked, or that not enough flour in proportion to 
the liquid has been used. It should be stated, that although 
the recipes given have been prepared with the greatest care, 
and with the same brands of flour, careful measurement, and 
proper conditions, prove successful every time, yet with differ- 
ent brands of flour some variation in quantity may be needed, — 
a trifle more or less, — dependent upon the absorbent properties 
of the flour, and if eggs are used, upon the size of the eggs. 

A heavy bread may be the result of the use of poor flour, 
too much flour, careless or insufficient beating, so that not 
enough air was incorporated, or an oven not sufficiently hot to 
form a crust over the bread before the air escaped. Breads 
made into a dough, if moist and clammy, require more flour 
or longer baking. Too much flour will make them stiff and 
hard. 

The length of time requisite for baking aerated breads made 
with whole-wheat, wheat berry, or Graham flours, will vary 
from forty minutes to one hour, according to the kind and form 
in which the bread is baked, and the heat of the oven. 

The irons in which batter breads are to be baked should not 
be smeared with grease ; if necessary to oil them at all, they 
should only be wiped out lightly with a clean, oiled cloth. 
Irons well cared for, carefully washed, and occasionally scoured 
with Sapolio to keep them perfectly smooth, will require no 
greasing whatever. 



156 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

In filling the irons, care should be taken to fill each cup at 
first as full as it is intended to have it, as the heat of the irons 
begins the cooking of the batter as soon as it is put in, and an 
additional quantity added has a tendency to make the bread 
less light. 

RECIPES. 

Whole- Wheat Puffs. — Put the yolk of an egg into a basin, and beat 
the white in a separate dish to a stiff froth. Add to the yolk, one half a 
cupful of rather thin sweet cream and one cupful of skim milk. Beat the 
egg, cream, and milk together until perfectly mingled and foamy with air 
bubbles ; then add, gradually, beating well at the same time, one pint of 
wheat berry flour. Continue the beating vigorously and without interrup- 
tion for eight or ten minutes ; then stir in, lightly, the white of the egg. 
Do not beat again after the white of the egg is added, but turn at once into 
heated, shallow irons, and bake for an hour in a moderately quick oven. 
If properly made and carefully baked, these puffs will be of a fine, even 
texture throughout, and as light as bread raised by fermentation. 

Whole-Wheat Puffs No. 2. — Make a batter by beating together until 
perfectly smooth the yolk of one egg, one and one half cups of new or un- 
skimmed milk, and one pint of whole-wheat flour. Place the dish contain- 
ing it directly upon ice, and leave for an hour or longer. The bread may 
be prepared and left on the ice over night, if desired for breakfast. When 
ready to bake the puffs, whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth, and 
after vigorously beating the batter for ten minutes, stir in lightly the 
white of the egg ; turn at once into heated irons, and bake. If preferred, 
one third white flour and two thirds sifted Graham flour may be used in 
the place of the wheat berry flour. 

Whole-Wheat Puffs No. 3. — Take one cupful of sweet cream (twelve- 
hour cream), one half cupful of soft ice water, and two slightly rounded 
cupfuls of wheat berry flour. Beat the material well together, and set the 
dish containing it on ice for an hour or more before using. When ready 
to bake, beat the mixture vigorously for ten minutes, then turn into 
heated iron cups (shallow ones are best), and bake for about an hour in 
a quick oven. 

Graham Puffs. — Beat together vigorously until full of air bubbles, one 
pint of unskimmed milk, the yolk of one egg, and one pint and three or 
four tablespoonfuls of Graham flour, added a little at a time. When the 
mixture is light and foamy throughout, stir in lightly and evenly the white 
of the egg, beaten to a stiff froth ; turn into heated irons, and bake in a 
rather quick oven. Instead of all Graham, one third white flour may be 
used if preferred. 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 157 

Graham Puffs No. 2. — Beat the yolks of two eggs in two cupfuls of ice 
water; then add gradually, beating well meantime, three and one fourth 
cupfuls of Graham flour. Continue the beating, after all the flour is 
added, until the mixture is light and full of air bubbles. Add last the 
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and bake at once in heated irons. 

Currant Puffs. — Prepare the puffs as directed in any of the foregoing 
recipes with the addition of one cup of Zante currants which have been 
well washed, dried, and floured. 

Oraham Gems. — Into two cupfuls of unskimmed milk which has been 
made very cold by standing on ice, stir gradually, sprinkling it from the 
hand, three and one fourth cupfuls of Graham flour. Beat vigorously for 
ten minutes or longer, until the batter is perfectly smooth and full of air 
bubbles. Turn at once into hissing hot gem irons, and bake in a hot 
oven. If preferred, the batter may be prepared, and the dish containing 
it placed on ice for an hour or longer ; then well beaten and baked. Gra- 
ham gems may be made in this manner with soft water instead of milk, 
but such, in general, will need a little more flour than when made with 
milk. With some ovens, it will be found, an advantage in baking these 
gems to place them on the upper grate for the first ten minutes or until 
the top has been slightly crusted, and then change to the bottom of the 
oven for the baking. 

Crusts. — Beat together very thoroughly one cupful of ice-cold milk, 
and one cupful of Graham flour. When very light and full of air bubbles, 
turn into hot iron cups, and bake twenty-five or thirty minutes. The best 
irons for this purpose are the shallow oblong, or round cups of the same 
size at the bottom as at the top. Only a very little batter should be put 
in each cup. The quantity given is sufficient for one dozen crusts. 

Rye Piiffs. — Beat together the same as for whole-wheat puffs one cup- 
ful of milk, one tablespoonful of sugar, and the yolk of an egg. Add one 
cupful of good rye flour, mixed with one half cupful of Graham flour, and 
stir in lastly the well beaten white of the egg. Bake at once, in heated 
gem-irons. 

Rye Puffs No. 2. — Beat together until well mingled one pint of thin 
cream and the yolk of one egg. Add gradually, beating meanwhile, four 
cups of rye flour. Continue to beat vigorously for ten minutes, then add 
the stiffly-beaten white of the egg, and bake in heated irons. 

Rye Gems. — Mix together one cupful of corn meal and one cupful of 
rye meal. Stir the mixed meal into one and one half cupfuls of ice water. 
Beat the batter vigorously for ten or fifteen minutes, then turn into hot 
irons, and bake. 

Blueberry Gems. — To one cupful of rich milk add one tablespoonful of 
sugar, and the yolk of an egg. Beat well till full of air bubbles ; then add 



158 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

gradually one cupful of Graham flour, and one cupful of white flour, or 
white corn meal. Beat vigorously until light ; stir in the beaten white 
of the egg, and one cupful of fresh, sound blueberries. Bake in heated 
irons, in a moderately quick oven. Chopped sweet or sour apples may 
be used in place of the berries. 

Hominy Gems. — Beat one egg until very light, add to it one table- 
spoonful of thick sweet cream, a little salt, if desired, and two cupfuls of 
cooked hominy (fine). Thin the mixture with one cupful or less of boiling 
water until it will form easily, beat well, and bake in heated irons. 

Sally Lunii Gems. — Beat together the yolk of one egg, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, and one cupful of thin, ice-cold, sweet cream. Add slowly, 
beating at the same time, one cup and two tablespoonfuls of sifted Gra- 
ham flour. Beat vigorously, until full of air bubbles, add the white of the 
egg beaten stiffly, and bake in heated irons. 

Corn Pnflfs. — Mingle the yolk of one egg with one cupful of rich milk. 
Add to the liquid one cupful of flour, one-half cupful of fine, yellow corn 
meal, and one-fourth cupful of sugar, all of which have previously been 
well mixed togethet. Place the batter on ice for an hour, or until very 
cold. Then beat it vigorously five or ten minutes, till full of air bubbles ; 
stir in lightly the stiffly beaten white of the egg, and put at once into 
heated irons. Bake in a moderately quick oven, thirty or forty minutes. 

Corn Puffs No. 2. — Scald two cupfuls of fine white corn meal with 
boiling water. When cold, add three tablespoonfuls of thin sweet cream, 
and the yolk of one egg. Beat well, and stir in lastly the white of the egg, 
beaten to a stiff froth. The batter should be sufficiently thin to drop 
easily from a spoon, but not thin enough to pour. Bake in heated irons, 
in a moderately quick oven. 

Corn Puffs No. 3. — Take one cupful of cold mashed potato, and one 
cupful of milk, rubbed together through a colander to remove all lumps. 
Add the yolk of one well beaten egg, and then stir in slowly, beating 
vigorously meantime, one cupful of good corn meal. Lastly, stir in the 
white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth, and bake in heated irons, in a 
rather quick oven. 

Corn Puffs No. 4. — Beat together one and one-half cupfuls of un- 
skimmed milk and the yolks of two eggs, until thoroughly blended. Add 
two cupfuls of flour, and one cupful best granular corn meal. Beat the 
batter thoroughly ; stir in lightly the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth, turn into heated irons, and bake. 

Corn Dodgers. — Scald one cupful of best granular corn meal, with 
which a tablespoonful of sugar has been sifted, with one cup of boiling 
milk. Beat until smooth, and drop on a griddle, in cakes about one inch 
in thickness, and bake slowly for an hour. Turn when brown. 



BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 159 

Corn Dodders No. 2. — Mix one tablespoonful of sugar with two cups 
best corn meal. Scald with one cup of boiling water. Add rich milk to 
make a batter thin enough to drop from a spoon. Lastly, add one egg, 
yolk and white beaten separately, and bake on a griddle in the oven from 
three fourth of an hour to one hour. 

Cream Corn Cakes. — Into one cup of thin cream stir one and one half 
cups of granular corn meal, or enough to make a stiff batter ; beat well, 
drop into heated irons, and bake. 

Hoe Cako. — Scald one pint of white corn meal, with which, if desired, a 
tablespoonful of sugar, and one half teaspoonful of salt have been mixed, 
with boiling milk, or water enough to make a batter sufficiently thick not 
to spread. Drop on a hot griddle, in large or small cakes, as preferred, 
about one half inch in thickness. Cook slowly, and when well browned 
on the under side, turn over. The cake may be cooked slowly, until well 
done throughout, or, as the portion underneath becomes well browned, 
the first browned crust may be peeled off with a knife, and the cake again 
turned. As rapidly as a crust laecomes formed and browned, one may be 
removed, and the cake turned, until the whole is all browned. The thin 
wafer-like crusts are excellent served with hot milk or cream. 

Oatmeal Gems. — To one cupful of well-cooked oatmeal add one half 
cupful of rich milk or thin cream, and the yolk of one egg. Beat all to- 
gether thoroughly ; then add, continuing to beat, one and one third cup- 
fuls of Graham flour, and lastly the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Bake 
in heated irons. If j^referred, one cupful of white flour may be used in 
place of the Graham. 

Snow Gems. — Beat together lightly but thoroughly two parts clean, 
freshly fallen, dry snow, and one part best granular corn meal. Turn 
into hot gem irons and bake quickly. The snow should not be packed in 
measuring, and the bread should be prepared before the snow melts. 

Pop Overs. — For the preparation of these, one egg, one cupful of milk, 
and one scant cupful of white floor are required. Beat the egg, yolk and 
white, separately. Add to the yolk, when well beaten, one half the milk, 
and sift in the flour a little at a time, stirring until the whole is a perfectly 
smooth paste. Add the remainder of the milk gradually, beating well until 
the whole is an absolutely smooth, light batter about the thickness of cream. 
Stir in the stiffly beaten white of the egg, and bake in hot earthen cups or 
muffin rings, and to prevent them from sticking, sift flour into the rings 
after slightly oiling, afterward turning them upside down to shake off all 
the loose flour. 

Granola Gems. — Into three fourths of a cup of rich milk stir one cup 
of Granola (prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co.). Drop into heated 
irons, and bake for twenty or thirty minutes. 



l6o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Bean Gems. — Prepare the gems in the same manner as for Whole- 
Wheat Puffs, using one half cup of milk, one egg, one cup of cooked beans 
which have been rubbed through a colander and salted, and one cup and 
one tablespoonful of white flour. A little variation in the quantity of the 
flour may be necessary, dependent upon the moisture contained in the 
beans, although care should be taken to have them quite dry. 

Breakfast Rolls. — Sift a pint and a half of Graham flour into a bowl, 
and into it stir a" cupful of very cold thin cream, or unskimmed milk. ^ 
Pour the liquid into the flour slowly, a few spoonfuls at a time, mixing 
each spoonful to a dough with the flour as fast as poured in. When 
all the liquid has been added, gather the fragments of dough together, 
knead thoroughly for ten minutes or longer, until perfectly smooth and 
elastic. The quantity of flour will vary somewhat with the quality, but 
in general, the quantity given will be quite sufficient for mixing the dough 
and dusting the board. When well kneaded, divide into two portions ; 
roll each over and over with the hands, until a long roll about one inch 
in diameter is formed ; cut this into two-inch lengths, prick with a fork 
and place on perforated tins, far enough apart so that one will not touch 
another when baking. Each roll should be as smooth and perfect as 
possible, and with no dry flour adhering. Bake at once, or let stand 
on ice for twenty minutes. The rolls should not be allowed to stand 
after forming, unless on ice. From thirty to forty minutes will be re- 
quired for baking. When done, spread on the table to cool, but do not 
pile one on top of another. 

Very nice rolls may be made in the same manner, using for the 
wetting ice-cold soft water. They require a longer kneading, are more 
crisp, but less tender than those made with cream. 

With some brands of Graham flour the rolls will be much lighter if 
one third white flour be used. Whole-wheat flour may be used in place 
of Graham, if preferred. 

Sticks. — Prepare, and knead the dough the same as for rolls. When 
ready to form, roll the dough much smaller ; scarcely larger than one's 
little finger, and cut into three or four-inch lengths. Bake the same as 
rolls, for about twenty minutes. 

Cream Gfraham Bolls. — To one half cup cold cream add one half cup 
of soft ice water. Make into a dough with three cups of Graham flour, 
sprinkling in slowly with the hands, beating at the same time, so as to in- 
corporate as much air as possible, until the dough is too stifle to be stirred ; 
then knead thoroughly, form into rolls, and bake. 

Corn Mush Rolls. — Make a dough of one cup of corn meal mush, one 
half cup of cream, and two and one half cups of white flour ; knead thor- 
oughly, shape into rolls, and bake. 



I'.Kl'ADSTUl'FS AND J'.KKAI )-M A K IXC. I 6 [ 

Fruit Rolls. — Prepmt' tlu> rolls as directi'd in the reciiie fur Break- 
fast Rolls, and when well kneaded, work into the douj;li a half cupful of 
Zante currants which have been well washed, dried, and floured. Form the 
rolls in the usual manner, and bake. 

Croani Miisli Bolls. — Into a cupful of cold Graham mush beat thor- 
oughly three tablespuonfuls of thick, sweet cream. Add sufficient Graham 
flour to make a rather stiff dough, knead thoroughly, shape into rolls, 
and bake. Corn meal, farina, and other mushes may be used in the place 
of the Graham mush, if preferred. 

IJoaten Biscuit. — Into a quart of whole-wheat flour mix a large cup of 
thin sweet cream in the same manner as for breakfast rolls. The dough 
must be very stiff, and rendered soft and pliable by thorough kneading 
and afterward pounding with a mallet for at least half an hour in the fol- 
lowing manner : Pound the dough out flat, and until of the same thickness 
throughout ; dredge lightly with flour ; double the dough over evenly and 
pound quickly around the outside, to fasten the edges together and thus 
retain the air within the dough. When well worked, the dough will ap- 
pear flaky and brittle, and pulling a piece off it quickly will cause a sharp, 
snajiping sound. Mold into small biscuits, making an indenture in the 
center of each with the thumb, prick well with a fork, and place on per- 
forated sheets, with a space between, and put at once into the oven. The 
oven should be of the same temperature as for rolls. If they are "sad" 
inside when cold, they were not well baked, as they should be light and 
tender. If preferred, use one third white flour, instead of all whole-wheat. 
Excellent results are also obtained by chopping instead of pounding the 
dough. 

Cream Crisps. — Make a dough of one cupful of thin cream, and a 
little more than three cups of Graham flour. Knead until smooth, then 
divide the dough into several pieces, and place in a dish on ice for an hour, 
or until ice cold. Roll each piece separately and quickly as thin as brown 
paper. Cut with a knife into squares, prick with a fork, and bake on 
perforated tins, until lightly browned on both sides. 

Cream Crisps No. 2. — Into two and one half cups of cold cream or 
rich milk, sprinkle slowly with the hands, beating meanwhile to incorpo- 
rate air, four cups of best Graham flour, sifted with one half cup of 
granulated sugar. Add flour to knead ; about two and one fourth cups 
will be required. When well kneaded, divide into several portions, roll 
each as thin as a knife blade, cut into S(|uares, i)rick well with a fork, 
and bake. 

(xraliam Crisps. — Into ouv. half cupful of ice-coUl soft water, stir 

slowly, so as to incorporate as much air as possible, enough Graham flour 

to make a dough stiff enough to knead. A tablespoonful of sugar may be 

added to the water before stirring in the flour, if desired, Aftei' kneading 

II 



l62 SCIE^XE IN THE KITCHEN. 

fifteen minutes, divide the dough into six portions ; roll each as thin as 
brown paper, prick with a fork, and bake on perforated tins, turning 
often until both sides are a light, even brown. Break into irregular 
pieces and serve. 

Oatmeal Crisps. —Make a dough with one cupful of oatmeal porridge 
and Graham flour. Knead thoroughly, roll very thin, and bake as directed 
for Graham Crisps. A tablespoonful of sugar may be added if desired. 

Grrahaiu Crackers.— Make a dough of one cup of cream and Graham 
flour sufficient to make a soft dough. Knead thoroughly, and place on 
ice for half an hour; then roll thin, cut into small cakes with a cooky- 
cutter, prick with a fork, and bake on floured pans, in a brisk oven. A 
tablespoonful of sugar, may be added if desired. 

Fruit Craclcers. — Prepare a dough with one cup of cold sweet cream 
and three cups of Graham flour, knead well, and divide into two portions. 
Roll each quite thin. Spread one thickly with dates or figs seeded and 
chopped ; place the other one on top and press together with the rolling 
pin. Cut into squares and bake. An additional one fourth of a cup of 
flour will doubtless be needed for dusting the board and kneading. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Behind the nutty loaf is the mill wheel ; behind the mill is the wheat field ; on 
the wheat field rests the sunlight ; above the sun is God. — yames Russell Lowell. 

Bread forms one of the most important parts of the ration of the German sol- 
dier. In time of peace, the private soldier is supplied day by day with one pound 
and nine ounces of bread ; when fighting for the Fatherland, every man is entitled to 
a free ration of over two pounds of bread, and field bakery trains and steam ovens 
for providing the large amount of bread required, form a recognized part of the equip- 
ment of the German army. 

The wandering Arab lives almost entirely upon bread, with a few dates as 
a relish. 

According to Count Rumford, the Bavarian wood-chopper, one of the most 
hardy and hard-working men in the world, receives for his weekly rations one large 
loaf of rye bread and a small quantity of roasted meal. Of the meal he makes an 
infusion, to which he adds a little salt, and -with the mixture, ^\hich he calls burned 
soup, he eats his rye bread. No beer, no beef, no other food than that mentioned, 
and no drink but water ; and yet he can do more work and enjoys a better digestion 
and possesses stronger muscles than the average American or Englishman, with their 
varied dietary. 



TABLE TOPICS. 163 

The following truthful hit of Scandinavian history well illustrates the influence 
of habits of frugality upon national character : " The Danes were approaching, and 
one of the Swedish bishops asked ln)w many men the province of Dalarna could 
furnish. 

" 'At least twenty thousand,' was the reply ; 'for the old men are just as strong 
and lirave as the young ones.' 

" ' But what do they live upon ? ' 

"'Upon bread and water. They take little account f)f hunger and thirst, and 
when corn is lacking, they make their bread out of tree bark.' 

" ' Nay,' said the bishop, ' a peo[)le who eat tree bark and drink water, the 
devil himself could not vancpiish 1 ' and neither were they vanquished. Their 
progress was one series of triumphs, till they placed Gustavus Vasa on the throne 
of Sweden." 

Thi-: word bisciiil embodies the process by which this form of bread was made 
from time immemorial down to within the last century. Bis (twice), and coc/us 
(cooked), show that they were twice baked. 

Fragments of unfermented bread were discovered in the Swiss lake-dwellings, 
which belong to the Neolithic age. 

P'ermented bread is seldom seen in Northern Europe and Asia except among 
the rich or the nobility. At one time, the captain of an English vessel requested 
a baker of Gottenburg to bake a large quantity of loaves of raised bread. 
The baker refused to undertake an order of such magnitude, saying it would be 
quite impossible to dispose of so much, until the captain agreed to take and pay 
for it all. 

I M.A.nE a study of the ancient and indispensable art of bread-making, consulting 
such authorities as offered, going back to the primitive days and first invention of the 
unleavened kind, and traveling gradually down in my studies through that accidental 
souring of the dough which it is supposed taught the leavening process, and through 
the various fermentations thereafter till I came to" good, sweet, wholesome bread," — 
the staff of life. Leaven, which some deemed the soul of bread, the spiriliis which 
fills its cellular tissues, which is religiously preserved like the vestal fire, — some 
precious bottleful, I suppose, brought over in the Mayflower, did the business for 
America, and its influence is still rising, swelling, spreading in cerulean billows over 
the land, — this seed I regularly and faithfully procured from the village, until one 
morning I forgot the rules and scalded my yeast ; by which accident I discovered that 
even this was not indispensable, and I have gladly omitted it ever since. Neither 
did I put any soda or other acid or alkali, into my bread. It would seem that I made 
it according to the recipe which Marcus Porcius Cato gave about two centuries before 
Christ: " Make kneaded bread thus : Wash your hands and trough well. Put the 
meal into the trough, add water gradually, and knead it thoroughly. When you 
have kneaded it well, mold it, and bake it under a cover," that is in a baking 
kettle. — ThoreuH in IVn/deii. 




^s^^ftF all the articles which enter the list of foods, none are 
^,,jipvi|| more wholesome and pleasing than the fruits which na- 

Vwvf ^^^^ so abundantly provides. Their delicate hues and 
^'^ perfect outlines appeal to our sense of beauty, while 
their delicious flavors gratify our appetite. Our markets are 
supplied with an almost unlimited variety of both native and 
tropical fruits, and it might be supposed that they would 
always appear upon the daily bill of fare ; yet in the ma- 
jority of homes this is rarely the case. People are inclined 
to consider fruit, unless the product of their own gardens, a 
luxury too expensive for common use. Many who use a plenti- 
ful supply, never think of placing it upon their tables, unless 
cooked. Ripe fruit is a most healthful article of diet when par- 
taken of at seasonable times ; but to eat it, or any other food, 
between meals, is a gross breach of the requirements of good 
digestion. 

Fruits contain from seventy-five to ninety-five per cent of 
water, and a meager proportion of nitrogenous matter ; hence 
[164] 



FRUITS. 165 

their value as nutrients, except in a few instances, is rather 
small ; but they supply a variety of agreeable acids which 
refresh and give tone to the system, and their abundant 
and proper use does much to keep the vital machinery in good 
working order. 

Aside from the skin and seeds, all fruits consist essentially 
of two parts, — the cellulose structure containing the juice, and 
the juice itself The latter is water, with a small proportion of 
fruit sugar (from one to twenty per cent in different varieties), 
and vegetable acids. These acids are either free, or combined 
with potash and lime in the form of acid salts. They are 
mallic, citric, tartaric, and pectic acids. The last-named is the 
jelly-producing principle. 

While the juice, as we commonly find it, is readily trans- 
formable for use in the system, the cellular structure of the 
fruit is not so easily digested. In some fruits, as the straw- 
berry, grape, and banana, the cell walls are so delicate as 
to be easily broken up ; but in watermelons, apples, and 
oranges, the cells are coarser, and form a larger bulk of the 
fruit, hence are less easily digested. As a rule, other points 
being equal, the fruits which yield the richest and largest quan- 
tity of juices, and also possess a cellular framework the least 
perceptible on mastication, are the most readily digested. A 
certain amount of waste matter is an advantage, to give bulk to 
our food ; but persons with weak stomachs, who cannot eat cer- 
tain kinds of fruit, are often able to digest the juice when 
taken alone. 

Unripe fruits differ from ripe fruits in that they contain 
starch, which during ripening is changed into sugar, and gener- 
ally some proportion of tannic acid, which gives them their 
astringency. The characteristic constituent of unripe fruit, 
however, is pectose, an element insoluble in water, but which, 
as maturation proceeds, is transformed into pectic and pectosic 
acids. These are soluble in boiling water, and upon cooling, 
yield gelatinous solutions. Their presence makes it possible to 
convert the juice of ripe fruits into jelly. Raw starch in any 
form is indigestible, hence unripe fruit should never be eaten 



i66 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



uncooked. As fruit matures, the changes it undergoes are such 
as best fit it for consumption and digestion. The following' 
table shows the composition of the fruits in common use: — 



ANALYSIS. 



Apples ...... 

Pears 

Peaches 

Grapes 

Plums 

Gooseberries . 
Strawberries . 
Raspberries . 
Currants . . . . 
Blackberries . 

Cherries 

Apricots 

Oranges 

Dates 

Bananas 

Turkey Figs . 



Wate 



S3 . o 

84.0 
85.0 

80.0 
82.0 
86.0 

87.6 

86.+ 

85.2 

86.4 

75.0 

85.0 

86.0 

20.8 

73-9 

17-5 



0.4 
0.3 
0-5 
0.7 
0.2 
0.4 
0-5 
0.5 
0.4 

0.5 
0.9 
.08 

6.6 
4.8 
6.1 



6.8 
7.0 
1.8 

Glucose. 
13.0 

3.6 
7.0 

4-5 
4-7 
6.4 
4-4 

I3-I 

1 .0 

8 to 10 

54-0 

19. 7f 

57-5 



Free Acid 



I .0 

0. I 

0.7 

Tartaric. 
0.8 

o.S 
1-5 
1-3 
1-3 
1.8 

1 . I 



Fat. 
0.2 
Fat. 
0.6 
Fat. 
0.9 



Cellulose. 



41: 



jNIineral 
Matter. 



0.4 

0-3 
0.6 
0.4 
0.6 

0.5 
0.6 
0.4 

0-5 
0.4 
0.6 
0.8 

1.6 
0.8 
2.3 



* Small quantities of albumen, citric acid, citrate of potash, cellulose, etc. 
t Sugar and pectose. t Starch, pectose, etc. 

There is a prevailing notion that the free use of fruits, 
especially in summer, excites derangement of the digestive 
organs. When such derangement occurs, it is far more likely 
to have been occasioned by the way in which the fruit was 
eaten than by the fruit itself. Perhaps it was taken as a surfeit 
dish at the end of a meal. It may have been eaten in combi- 



FRUITS. 167 

naticMi witli rich, oily foods, [);istr\", stront^ coffee, and other 
indigestible viands, which, in themselves, often excite an attack 
of indigestion. Possibly it was partaken of between meals, or 
late at night, with ice cream and other confections, or it was 
swallowed without sufficient mastication. Certainly, it is not 
marvelous that stomach and bowel disorders do result under 
such circumstances. The innocent fruit, like many other good 
things, being found in "bad company," is blamed accordingly. 
An excess of any food at meals or between meals, is likely 
to prove injurious, and fruits present no exception to this rule- 
Fruit taken at seasonable times and in suitable quantities, 
alone or in combination with proper foods, gives us one of the 
most agreeable and healthful articles of diet. Fruit, fats, and 
meats do not affiliate, and they arc liable to create a disturb- 
ance whenever taken together. 

Partially decayed, stale, and overripe, as well as unripe fruit, 
should never be eaten. According to M. Pasteur, the French 
scientist, all fruits and vegetables, Avhen undergoing even 
incipient decay, contain numerous germs, which, introduced 
into the system, are liable to produce disturbances or disease. 
Perfectly fresh, ripe fruit, with proper limitations as to quantity 
and occasion, may be taken into a normal stomach with im- 
punity at any season. 

It is especially important that all fruits to be eaten should 
not only be sound in quality, but should be made perfectly 
clean by washing if necessary, since fruit grown near the 
ground is liable to be covered with dangerous bacteria (such 
as cause typhoid fever or diphtheria), which exist in the soil 
or in the material used in fertilizing it. 

Most fruits, properly used, aid digestion either directly or 
indirectly. The juicy ones act as diluents, and their free use 
lessens the desire for alcohol and other stimulants. According 
to German analysts, the apple contains a larger percentage of 
phosphorus than any other fruit, or than any vegetable. In 
warm weather and in warm climates, when foods are not needed 
for a heat-producing purpose, the diet may well consist largely 
of fruits and succulent vegetables, eaten in combination with 



l68 SCIKXCK IN THE KITCHEN. 

bread and grains. In case of li\-er and kidne}- affections, rheu- 
matism, and gout, the use of fruit is considered very beneficial 
by many scientific authorities. 

To serve its best purpose, raw fruit should be eaten without 
sugar or other condiments, or with the addition of as small a 
quantit}- as possible. 

It is a disputed question whether fruits should begin or end 
the meal ; but it is generalh- conceded by those who have 
given the matter attention, that fruit eaten at the beginning of 
a meal is itself the more readily digested, and aids in the diges- 
tion of other foods, since fruits, like soups, have the property 
of stimulating the flow of the digestive juices. Something, 
however, must depend upon the character of the fruit ; oranges, 
melons, and like juicy fruits, are especially useful as appe- 
tizers to begin the meal, while bananas and similar fruits agree 
better if taken with other food, so as to secure thorough mix- 
ture with saliva. This is true of all fruits, except such pulpy 
fruits as strawberries, peaches, melons, grapes, and oranges. 
It is often erroneously asserted that fruit as dessert is injurious 
to digestion. For those people, however, who regulate their 
bill of fare in accordance with the principles of hygiene, a 
simple course of fruit is not only wholesome, but is all that is 
needed after a dinner ; and much time, labor, and health will 
be saved when housekeepers are content to serve desserts 
which nature supplies all ready for use, instead of those harm- 
ful combinations in the preparing of vv'hich they spend hours of 
tiresome toil. 

Description. — For convenience, fruits may be grouped 
together ; as, poniaceous fruits, including the apple, quince, 
pear, etc. ; the drupaceous fruits, those provided with a hard 
stone surrounded by a fleshy pulp, as the peach, apricot, plum, 
cherry, olive, and date ; the orange or citron group, includ- 
ing the orange, lemon, lime, citron, grape fruit, shaddock, and 
pomegranate ; the baccate or berry kind, comprising the grape, 
gooseberry, currant, cranberry, whortleberry, blueberry, and 
others ; the arterio group, to which belong raspberries, straw- 
berries, dewberries, and blackberries ; the fig group ; the 



iRirrs. 169 

gourd group, includiiii;" melons and cantaloupes ; and foreign 
fruits. 

It is impossible, in the brief scope of this work, to enumerate 
the infinite varieties of fruit ; but we will brief!}' speak of some 
of the most common fount! in the gardens and markets of tliis 
latitude. 

Apples. — The origin and first home of the apple, is un- 
known. If tradition is to be believed, it was the inauspicious 
fruit to which may be traced all the miseries of mankind. In 
pictures of the temptation in the garden of Eden, our mother 
Eve is generally represented as holding an apple in her hand. 

We find the apple mentioned in tlie mytliologies of the 
Greeks, Druids, and Scandinavians. The Thebans offered 
apples instead of sheep as a sacrifice to Hercules, a custom 
derived from the following circumstance : — 

"At one time, when a sacrifice was necessar\', the river 
Asopus had so inundated tlie country that it was impossible to 
take a slieep across it for the purpose, when some }'outlis, recol- 
lecting that the Greek word melon signified both sheep and an 
apple, stuck wooden pegs into the fruit to represent legs, and 
brought this vegetable quadruped as a substitute for the usual 
offering. After this date, the apple was considered as especially 
devoted to Hercules." 

In ancient times, Greece produced most excellent apples. 
They were the favorite dessert of Pliillip of Macedon and 
Alexander the Great, the latter causing tliem to be served at 
all meals. Doubtless the}' came to be used to excess ; for it is 
recorded of the Athenian lawgixer, Solon, that he made a 
decree prohibiting a bridegroom from partal<:ing of more than 
one at his marriage banquet, a law whicli was zealously kept 
b}' the Greeks, and final!}' adopted b}' tlie Persians. In 
Homer's time the apple was regarded as one of the precious 
fruits. It was extensive!}' cultivated b}' the Romans, who 
gave to new \arieties tlie names of man}' eminent citizens, and 
after the conquest of Gaul, introduced its culture into South- 
western Europe, whence it lias come to be wide!}' diffused 
througliout all parts of the temperate zone. 



. 170 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Apples were introduced into the United States by the early 
settlers, and the first trees were planted on an island in Boston 
Harbor, which still retains the name of Apple Island. The 
wild crab tree is the parent of most of the cidtivated varieties. 

The Pear. — The origin of the pear, like that of the apple, 
is shrouded in obscurity, though Egypt, Greece, and Palestine 
dispute for the honor of having given birth to the tree which 
bears this prince of fruits. Theophrastus, a Greek philosopher 
of the fourth century, speaks of the pear in terms of highest 
praise ; and Galen, the father of medical science, mentions the 
pear in his writings as possessing " qualities which benefit the 
stomach." The pear tree is one of the most hardy of all fruit 
trees, and has been known to live several hundred years. 

The Quince. — This fruit appears to have been a native of 
Crete, from whence it was introduced into ancient Greece, and 
was largely cultivated by both Greeks and Romans. In Persia, 
the fruit is edible in its raw state ; but in this country it never 
ripens sufficiently to be palatable without being cooked. The 
fruit is highly fragrant and exceedingly acid, and for these 
reasons is largely employed to flavor other fruits. 

The Peach. — This fruit, as its botanical name, pi'imis 
Persica, indicates, is a native of Persia, and was brought from 
that country to Greece, from whence it passed into Italy. It 
is frequently mentioned by ancient writers, and was regarded 
with much esteem by the people of Asia. The Romans, how- 
ever, had the singular notion that peaches gathered in Persia 
contained a deadly poison, but if once transplanted to another 
soil, this injurious effect was lost. In composition, the peach 
is notable for the small quantity of saccharine matter it con- 
tains in comparison with other fruits. 

The Plum. — The plum is one of the earliest of known 
fruits. Thebes, Memphis, and Damascus were noted for the 
great number of their plum trees in the early centuries. Plum 
trees grow wild in Asia, America, and the South of Europe, 
and from these a large variety of domestic plum fruits have 
been cultivated. 



FKun>. 171 

Plums are more liable than most other fruits to produce 
disorders of digestion, and when eaten raw should be carefully 
selected, that they be neither unripe nor overripe. Cooking 
renders them less objectionable. 

The Prune. — The plum when dried is often called by its 
French cognomen, prune. The larger and sweeter varieties 
are generally selected for drying, and when good and properly 
cooked, are among the most wholesome of prepared fruits. 

The Aprieot. — This fruit seems to be intermediate between 
tlie peach and the plum, resembling the former externally, 
while its stone is like that of the plum. The apricot originated 
in Armenia, and the tree which bears the fruit was termed by 
the Romans "the tree of Armenia." It was introduced into 
England in the time of Henry VIII. The apricot is cultivated 
to some extent in the United States, but it requires too much 
care to permit of its being largely grown, except in certain 
sections. 

The Cherry. — The common garden cherry is supposed to 
have been derived from the two species of wild fruit, and his- 
torians tell us that we are indebted to the agricultural experi- 
ments of Mithridates, the great king of ancient Pontus, for 
this much esteemed fruit. It is a native of Asia Minor, and 
derives its name from Cerasus, the city or country which was 
its birthplace. 

The Olive. — From time immemorial the olive has been as- 
sociated with history. The Scriptures make frequent reference 
to it, and its cultivation was considered of first importance 
among the Jews, who used its oil for culinary and a great 
variety of other purposes. Ancient mythology venerated the 
olive tree above all others, and invested it with many charming 
bits of fiction. Grecian poets sang its praises, and early Roman 
writers speak of it with high esteem. In appearance and size 
the fruit is much like the plum ; when ripe it is very dark 
green, almost black, and possesses a strong, and, to many peo- 
ple, disagreeable flavor. The pulp abounds in a bland oil, for 
the production of which it is extensively cultivated in Syria, 



1/2 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Egypt, Italy, Spain, and Southern France. The fruit itself is 
also pickled and preserved in various ways, but, like all other 
similar commodities when thus prepared, it is by no means a 
wholesome article of food. 

The Dale. — The date is the fruit of the palm tree so often 
mentioned in the Sacred Writings, and is indigenous to Africa 
and portions of Asia. The fruit grows in bunches which often 
weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds, and a single freewill 
bear from one to three thousand pounds in a season. The date 
is very sweet and nutritious. It forms a staple article of diet 
for the inhabitants of some parts of Egypt, Arabia, and Persia, 
and frequently forms the chief food of their horses, dogs, and 
camels. The Arabs reduce dried dates to a meal, and make 
therefrom a bread, Avhich often constitutes their sole food on 
long journeys through the Great Desert. The inhabitants of 
the countries where the date tree flourishes, put its various pro- 
ductions to innumerable uses. From its leaves they make 
baskets, bags, mats, combs, and brushes ; from its stalks, fences 
for their gardens ; from its fibers, thread, rope, and rigging ; 
from its sap, a spirituous liquor ; from its fruit, food for man and 
beast ; while the body of the tree furnishes them with fuel. 
The prepared fruit is largely imported to this country. That 
which is large, smooth, and of a soft reddish yellow tinge, with 
a whitish membrane betw^een the flesh and stone, is considered 
the best. 

The Orange. — According to some authors, the far-famed 
" golden fruit of the Hesperides," which Hercules stole, was the 
orange ; but it seems highly improbable that it was known to 
writers of antiquity. It is supposed to be indigenous to Central 
and Eastern Asia. Whatever its nativity, it has now spread 
over all the warmer regions of the earth. The orange tree is 
very hardy in its own habitat, and is one of the most prolific 
of all fruit-bearing trees, a single tree having been known to 
produce twenty thousand good oranges in a season. Orange 
trees attain great age. There are those in Italy and Spain Avhich 
are known to have flourished for six hundred years. Numer- 
ous varieties of the orange are grown, and are imported to our 



FRUITS. 



173 



markets from every part of the i,dobe. Florida oranges are 
among the best, and when obtained in their perfection, are the 
most luscious of all fruits. 

The Lemon. — This fruit is supposed to be a native of the 
North of India, although it is grown in nearly all sub-tropical 
climates. In general, the fruit is very acid, but in a variety 
known as the sweet lemon, or bergamot (said to be a hybrid of 
the orange and lemon), the juice is sweet. The sour lemon is 
highly valued for its antiscorbutic properties, and is largely 
employed as a flavoring ingredient in culinary preparations, 
and in making a popular refreshing beverage. 

The Citron. — The citron is a fruit very similar to the 
lemon, though larger in size and less succulent. It is supposed 
to be. identical with the Hebrew tappnacJi, and to be the fruit 
which is mentioned in the English version of the Old Testa- 
ment as "apple." The citron is not suitable for eating in its 
raw state, though its juice is used in connection with water and 
sugar to form an excellent acid drink. Its rind, which is very 
thick, with a warty and furrowed exterior, is prepared in sugar 
and largely used for flavoring purposes. 

The Lime. — The fruit of the lime is similar to the lemon, 
though much smaller in size. It is a native of Eastern Asia, but 
has long been cultivated in the South of Europe and other sub- 
tropical countries. The fruit is seldom used except for making 
acidulous drinks, for which it is often given the preference over 
the lemon. 

The Grape Fruit. — This fruit, a variety of shaddock, be- 
longs to the great citrus family, of which there are one hundred 
and sixty-nine known varieties. The shaddock proper, how- 
ever, is a much larger fruit, frequently weighing from ten to 
fourteen pounds. Although a certain quantity of grape fruit 
is brought from the West Indies, our principal supply is derived 
from Florida. It is from two to four times the size of an or- 
dinary orange, and grows in clusters. It is rapidly gaining in 
favor with fruit lovers. Its juice has a moderately acid taste and 
makes a pleasing beverage. The pulp, carefully separated, is 
also much esteemed. 



1 7.1- SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

The Pomegranate. — This fruit has been cultivated in Asia 
from earliest antiquity, and is still quite generally grown in 
most tropical climes. In the Scriptures it is mentioned with 
the vine, fig, and olive, among the pleasant fruits of the prom- 
ised land. It is about the size of a large peach, of a fine golden 
color, with a rosy tinge on one side. The rind is thick and 
leathery. The central portion is composed of little globules of 
pulp and seeds inclosed in a thin membrane, each seed being 
about the size of a red currant. It is sub-acid, and slightly 
bitter in taste. The rind is strongly astringent, and often used 
as a medicine. 

The Grape. — Undoubtedly the grape was one of the first 
fruits eaten by mankind, and one highly valued from an- 
tiquity down to the present time. Although this fruit is 
often sadly perverted in the manufacture of wine, when 
rightly used it is one of the most excellent of all fruits. 
The skins and seeds are indigestible and should be rejected, 
but the fresh, juicy pulp is particularly wholesome and re- 
freshing. Several hundred varieties of the grape are culti- 
vated. Some particularly sweet varieties are made into 
raisins, by exposure to the sun or to artificial heat. Sun- 
dried grapes make the best raisins. The so-called English 
or Zante currant belongs to the grape family, and is the 
dried fruit of a vine which grows in the Ionian Islands and 
yields a very small berry. The name currant, as applied to 
these fruits, is a corruption of the word Corinth, where the 
fruit was formerly grown. 

The Gooseberry. — The gooseberry probably derives its 
name from gorse or goss, a prickly shrub that grows wild in 
thickets and on hillsides in Europe, Asia, and America. It 
was known to the ancients, and is mentioned in the writings of 
Theocritus and Pliny. Gooseberries were a favorite dish with 
some of the emperors, and were extensively cultivated in gar- 
dens during the Middle Ages. The gooseberry is a wholesome 
and agreeable fruit, and by cultivation may be brought to a 
high state of perfection in size and flavor. 



FRITTTS. 175 

The Currant. — This fruit derives its name from its re- 
semblance to the small grapes of Corinth, sometimes called 
Corinthus, and is ' indigenous to America, Asia, and Europe. 
The fruit is sharply acid, though very pleasant to the taste. 
Cultivation has produced white currants from the red, and in 
a distinct species of the fruit grown in Northern Europe and 
Russia, the currants are black or yellow. 

The Whortleberry and Blueberry. — These are both spe- 
cies of the same fruit, which grows in woods and waste places 
in the North of Europe and America. Of the latter species 
there are two varieties, the high-bush and the low-bush, which 
are equally palatable. The fruit is very sweet and pleasant to 
the taste, and is one of the most wholesome of all berries. 

The Cranberry. — A German writer of note insists that 
the original name of this fruit was cram-berry, because after 
dinner, when one was filled with other food, such was its 
pleasant and seductive flavor that he could still "cram" quite 
a quantity thereof, in defiance of all dietetic laws. Other 
writers consider the name a corruption of craneberry, so 
called because it is eagerly sought after by the cranes and 
other birds which frequent the swamps and marshes where it 
chiefly grows. The fruit is extremely acid, and is highly 
valued for sauces and jellies. Cranberries are among the 
most convenient fruits for keeping. Freezing docs not seem 
to hurt them, and they may be kept frozen all winter, or in 
water without freezing, in the cellar, or other cool places, for a 
long period. 

The Strawberry. — The flavor of antiquity rests upon the 
wild strawberry. Its fruit was peddled by itinerant dealers 
about the streets of ancient Grecian and Roman cities. Virgil 
sings of it in pastoral poems, and Ovid mentions it in words of 
praise. The name by which the fruit was known to the Greeks 
indicates its size ; with the Latins its name was symbolic of its 
perfume. The name strawberry probably came from the old 
Saxon strc(nvbcrigi\ either from some resemblance of the stems 
to straw, or from the fact that the berries have the appearance 



1/6 SCIENCE IX THE KITCHEN. 

when growing- of being strewn upon the ground. In olden 
times, children strung the berries upon straws, and sold so 
many " straws of berries " for a penny, from which fact it is 
possible the name may have been derived. The strawberry is 
indigenous to the temperate regions of both the Eastern and 
Western Hemispheres, but it seems to have been matured in 
gardens, only within the last two centuries. 

The Raspberry. — This fruit grows in both a wild and a cul- 
tivated state. It derives its name from the rough rasps or 
spines with which the bushes are covered. Among the an- 
cients it was called " the bramble of Mt. Ida," because it was 
abundant upon that mountain. It is a hardy fruit, found in 
most parts of the world, and is of two special varieties, the 
black and the red. 

The Blackberry. — This fruit is a native of America and 
the greater part of Europe. There are one hundred and fifty- 
one named species, although the high-blackberry and the low- 
blackberry, or dewberry, are said to have furnished the best 
cultivated varieties. 

The Mulberry. — Different varieties of the mulberry tree 
produce white, red, and black mulberries of fine aromatic flavor, 
and acidulous or sweet taste. Persia is supposed to be the 
native home of this fruit, from whence it was carried, at an 
early date, to Asia Minor and to Greece. The Hebrews were 
evidently well acquainted with it. It was also cultivated by 
the farmers of Attica and Peloponnesus. The ancient mul- 
berry was considered the wisest and most prudent of trees, 
because it took care not to put forth the smallest bud until the 
cold of winter had disappeared, not to return. Then, however, 
it lost no time, but budded and blossomed in a day. Several 
varieties are found in the United States. 

The Melon. — This is the generic name for all the members 
of the gourd tribe known as cantaloupes, muskmelons, and 
watermelons. The fruit varies greatly in size and color, and 
in the character of the rind. When fresh and perfectly ripe, 
melons are among the most delicious of edible fruits. 

The Fig. — In the most ancient histories, the fig tree is 
referred to as among the most desirable productions of the 



FRUITS. 



177 



earth. It was the only tree in the t^arden of Eden of which 
the Sacred Writings make particular mention. Among the 
inhabitants of ancient Syria and Greece, it formed one of the 
principal articles of food. Its cultivation was, and is still, 
extensively carried on in nearly all Eastern countries ; also 
in Spain, Southern France, and some portions of the United 
States. The fruit is pear-shaped, and consists of a pulpy mass 
full of little seeds. Dried and compressed figs are largely im- 
ported, and are to be found in all markets. Those brought 
from Smyrna are reputed to be the best. 

The Baiicina. — This is essentially a tropical fruit growing 
very generally in the East, the West Indies, South American 
countries, and some of the Southern States. The plant is an 
annual, sending up stems to the height of ten or fifteen feet, 
while drooping from the top are enormous leaves three or four 
feet in length, and looking, as one writer has aptly said, like 
"great, green quill pens." It is planted in fields like corn, which 
in its young growth it much resembles. Each plant produces 
a single cluster of from eighty to one hundred or more bananas, 
often weighing in the aggregate as high as seventy pounds. 
The banana is exceedingly productive. According to Hum- 
boldt, a space of 1,000 feet, which will yield only 38 pounds 
of wheat, or 462 pounds of potatoes, will produce 4,000 pounds 
of bananas, and in a much shorter period of time. It is more 
nutritious than the majority of fruits, and in tropical countries 
is highly valued as a food, affording in some localities the chief 
alimentary support of the people. Its great importance as a 
food product is shown by the fact that three or four good sized 
bananas are equal in nutritive value to a pound of bread. The 
amount of albumen contained in a pound of bananas is about 
the same as that found in a pound of rice, and the total nutri- 
tive value of one pound of bananas is only a trifle less than 
that of an equal quantity of the best beefsteak. 

The unripe fruit, which contains a considerable percentage 
of starch, is often dried in the oven and eaten as bread, which, 
in this state, it considerably resembles in taste and appear- 
ance. Thus prepared, it may be kept for a long time, and is 
very serviceable for use on long journeys. The variety of 
12 



1/8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

the banana thus used is, however, a much larger kind than 
any of those ordinarily found in our Northern markets, and 
is known as the plantain. The dried plantain, powdered, 
furnishes a meal of fragrant odor and bland taste, not un- 
like common wheat flour. It is said to be easy of digestion, 
and two pounds of the dry meal or six pounds of the fruit is 
the daily allowance for a laborer in tropical America. 

The Pineapple. — This delicious fruit is a native of South 
America, where it grows wild in the forests. It is cultivated 
largely in tropical America, the West Indies, and some portions 
of Europe. The fruit grows singly from the center of a small 
plant having fifteen or more long, narrow, serrated, ridged, 
sharp-pointed leaves, seemingly growing from the root. In 
general appearance it resembles the century plant, though so 
much smaller that twelve thousand pineapple plants may be 
grown on one acre. From the fibers of the leaves is made a 
costly and valuable fabric called pina muslin. 

Nothing can surpass the rich, delicate flavor of the wild 
pineapple as found in its native habitat. It is in every way 
quite equal to the best cultivated variety. The most excel- 
lent pineapples are imported from the West Indies, but are 
seldom found in perfection in our Northern markets. 

FRESH FRUIT FOR THE TABLE. 

AH fruit for serving should be perfectly ripe and sound. 
Immature fruit is never wholesome, and owing to the large 
percentage of water in its composition, fruit is very prone to 
change ; hence overripe fruit should not be eaten, as it is 
liable to ferment and decompose in the digestive tract. 

Fruit which has begun, however slightly, to decay, should 
be rejected. Juice circulates through its tissues in much the 
same manner as the blood circulates through animal tissues, 
though not so rapidly and freely. The circulation is suf- 
ficient, however, to convey to all the parts the products of 
decomposition, when only a small portion has undergone decay. 



FRUITS. 179 

and although serious results do not always follow the use of 
such fruit, it certainly is not first-class food. 

If intended to be eaten raw, fruit should be well ripened be- 
fore gathering, and should be perfectly fresh. P'ruit that has 
stood day after day in a dish upon the tabic, in a warm room, 
is far less wholesome and tempting than that brought fresh 
from the storeroom or cellar. All fruits should be thoroughly 
cleansed before serving. Such fruit as cherries, grapes, and cur- 
rants may be best washed by placing in a colander, and dip- 
ping in and out of a pan of water until perfectly clean, draining 
and drying before serving. 

DIRECTIO/\/S FOR SERVI/S/G FRUITS. 

Apples. — In servinj^ tliese, the " (jueeu of all fruits," much oppor- 
tunity is afforded for a display of taste in their arrangement. After 
wiping clean with a damp towel, they may be piled in a fruit basket, with 
a few sprigs of green leaves here and there between their rosy cheeks. 
The feathery tops of carrots and celery are pretty for this purpose. 
Oranges and apples so arranged, make a highly ornamental dish. 

Raw mellow sweet apples make a delicious dish when pared, sliced, 
and served with cream. 

Bananas. — Cut the ends from the fruit and serve whole, piled in a 
basket with oranges, grapes, or plums. Another way is to peel, slice, and 
serve with thin cream. Bananas are also very nice sliced, sprinkled 
lightly with sugar, and before it has (juite dissolved, covered with orange 
juice. Sliced bananas, lightly sprinkled with sugar, alternating in layers 
with sections of oranges, make a most delicious dessert. 

Cherries. — Serve on stems, piled in a basket or high dish, with bits 
of green leaves and vines between. Rows of different colored cherries, 
arranged in pyramidal form, make also a handsome dish. 

Currants. — Large whole clusters may be served on the stem, and 
when it is j^ossible to obtain both red and white varieties, they make a 
most attractive dish. Put them into cold water for a little time, cocjI 
thoroughly, and drain well before using. Currants, if picked from the 
stems after being carefully washed and drained, may be served lightly 
sprinkled with sugar. Currants and raspberries served together, half and 
half, or one third currants and two thirds raspberries, are excellent. 
Only the ripest of currants should be used. 

Gooseberries, — When fresh and ripe, the gooseberry is one of the 
most delicious of small fruits. Serve with stems on. Drop into cold 



l8o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN, 

water for a few moments, drain, and pile in a glass dish for the table. 

Grapes. — Grapes need always to be washed before serving. Drop 
the bunches into ice water, let them remain ten or fifteen minutes, then 
drain and sei-ve. An attractive dish may be made by arranging bunches 
of different colored grapes together on a plate edged with grape leaves. 

Melons. — Watermelons should be served very cold. After being well 
washed on the outside, put on ice until needed. Cut off a slice at the 
ends, that each half may stand upright on a plate, and then cut around in 
even slices. Instead of cutting through the center into even halves, the 
melon may be cut in points back and forth around the entire circumfer- 
ence, so that when separated, each half will appear like a crown. An- 
other way is to take out the central portion with a spoon, in cone-shaped 
pieces, and arrange on a plate with a few bits of ice. Other melons may 
be served in halves, with the seeds removed. The. rough skin of the can- 
taloupe should be thoroughly scrubbed with a vegetable brush, then rinsed 
and wiped, after which bury the melon in broken ice till serving time ; 
divide into eighths or sixteenths, remove the seeds, reconstruct the melon, 
and serve surrounded with ice, on a folded napkin, or arranged on a bed of 
grape leaves. Do not cool the melon by placing ice upon the flesh, as the 
moisture injures the delicate flavor. 

Oranges. — Serve whole or cut the skin into eighths, half-way down, 
separating it from the fruit, and curling it inward, thus showing half the 
orange white and the other half yellow ; or cut the skin into eighths, tw'o- 
thirds down, and after loosening from the fruit, leave them spread open 
like the petals of a lily. Oranges sliced and mixed with well ripened 
strawberries, in the proportion of three oranges to a quart of berries, 
make a palatable dessert. 

Peaches and Pears. — Pick out the finest, and wipe the wool from the 
peaches. Edge a plate with uniform sized leaves of foliage plant of the 
same tints as the fruit, and pile the fruit artistically upon it, tucking 
sprays or tips of the plant between. Bits of ice may also be intermingled. 
Yellow Bartlett pears and rosy-cheeked peaches arranged in this way are 
most ornamental. 

Peaches and Cream. — Pare the peaches just as late as practicable, 
since they become discolored by standing. Always use a silver knife, as 
steel soon blackens and discolors the fruit. If sugar is to be used, do not 
add it until the time for serving, as it will start the juice, and likewise turn 
the fruit brown, destroying much of its rich flavor. Keep on ice until 
needed for the table. Add cream with each person's dish. 

Pineapples. — The pineapple when fresh and ripened to perfection, is 
as mellow and juicy as a ripe peach, and needs no cooking to fit it for the 
table. Of course it must be pared, and have the eyes and fibrous center 



FRUITS. l8l 

removed. Tlieii it in;iy be sliced in generous pieces and piled upon a 
plate, or cut into smaller portions and served in saucers. No condiments 
are necessary ; even the use of sugar detracts from its delicate flavor. 
Pineapples found in our Northern markets are, however, generally so 
hard and tough as to require cooking, or are valuable only for their juice, 
which may be extracted and used for flavoring other fruits. When suffi- 
ciently mellow to be eaten raw, they are usually so tart as to seem to re- 
quire a light sprinkling of sugar to suit most tastes. Pineapples pared, 
cut into dice or small pieces, lightly sprinkled with sugar, to which just 
before serving, a cup of orange juice is added, form a delicious dish. 

PIiiiiis. — Plums make a most artistic fruit piece, served whole and ar- 
ranged with bunches of choice green grapes, in a basket or glass dish. A 
fine edge may be made from the velvety leaves of dark purple foliage plants. 

Presse«l Figs. — Look over carefully, and select only such as are per- 
fectly good. They may be sei'ved dry, mixed with bunches of raisins, or 
steamed over a kettle of boiling water. Steamed figs make an excellent 
breakfast dish, and are considered much more wholesome than when used 
dry. Steamed raisins are likewise superior to dried raisins. 

Ras])berrie.s, Blackberries, Denlxrries, IJliieherrios, and Whortle- 
berries, require careful looking over to remove all insects, stems, and 
overripe fruit. Blueberries and whortleberries frequently need to be 
washed. They are then drained by spreading on a sieve or colander. 
Perfectly ripe, they are more healthful without condiments ; but sugar 
and cream are usually considered indispensable. 

If necessary to wash strawberries, they should be put into cold 
water, a few at a time, pushed down lightly beneath the water several 
times until entirely clean, then taken out one by one, hulled, and used 
at once. Like all other small fruits and berries the)^ are more whole- 
some served without cream, but if cream is used, each person should be 
allowed to add it to his own dish, as it quickly curdles and renders the 
whole dish unsightly ; if allowed to stand, it also impairs the flavor of 
the fruit. 

Frosted Fruit. — Prepare a mixture of the beaten white of egg, sugar, 
and a very little cold water. Dip nice bunches of clean currants, cherries, 
or grapes, into the mixture ; drain nearly dry, and roll lightly in powdered 
sugar. Lay them on white paper to dry. Plums, apricots, and peaches 
may be dipped in the mixture, gently sprinkled with sugar, then allowed 
to drj\ This method of preparing fruit is not to be commended for its 
wholesomeiu'ss, but it is sometimes desirable for ornament. 



182 SCIENCE IX THE KITCHEN. 

KEEPING FRESH FRUIT. 

Of the numerous varieties of fruits grown in this country, 
apples and pears are about the only ones that can be kept for 
any length of time without artificial means. As soon as fruit 
has attained its maturity, a gradual change or breaking down 
of tissues begins. In some fruits this process follows rapidly ; 
in others it is gradual. There is a certain point at which the 
fruits are best suited for use. We call it mellowness, and say 
that the fruit is in "good eating condition." When this stage 
has been reached, deterioration and rotting soon follow. In 
some fruits, as the peach, plum, and early varieties of apples 
and pears, these changes occur within a few days after maturity, 
and it is quite useless to attempt to keep them ; in others, like 
the later varieties of apples and pears, the changes are slow but 
none the less certain. To keep such fruits we must endeavor 
to retard or prolong the process of change, by avoiding all con- 
ditions likely to hasten decay. Even with ordinary care, sound 
fruit will keep for quite a length of time ; but it can be pre- 
served in better condition and for a longer period by careful 
attention to the following practical points : — 

1. If the fruit is of a late variety, allow it to remain on the 
tree as long as practicable without freezing. 

2. Always pick and handle the fruit with the greatest care. 

3. Gather the fruit on a dry, cool day, and place in heaps or 
bins for two or three weeks. 

4. Carefully sort and pack in barrels, placing those most 
mellow and those of different varieties in different barrels ; 
head the barrels, label, and place in a cool, dry place where 
the temperature will remain equable. Some consider it better 
to keep fruit in thin layers upon broad shelves in a cool place. 
This plan allows frequent inspection and removal of all affected 
fruit without disturbance of the remainder. 

5. Warmth and moisture are the conditions most favorable 
to decomposition, and should be especially guarded against. 

6. The best temperature for keeping fruit is about 34° F., or 
2° above freezing. 



FRUITS. ■ 183 

Another method which is highly recommended is to sprinkle 
a layer of sawdust on the bottom of a box, and then put in a 
layer of apples, not allowing them to touch each other. Upon 
this pack more sawdust ; then another layer of apples, and so 
on until the box is filled. After packing, place up from the 
ground, in a cellar or storeroom, and they will keep perfectly, 
retaining their freshness and flavor until brought out. The 
Practical Fcxrmer gives the following rough but good way to 
store and keep apples : " Spread plenty of buckwheat chaff on 
the barn floor, and on this place the apples, filling the inter- 
stices with the chaff. Cover with the chaff and then with straw 
two or three feet deep. The advantage of this is that cover- 
ing and bedding in chaff excludes cold, prevents air cur- 
rents, maintains a uniform temperature, absorbs the moisture 
of decay, and prevents the decay produced by moisture." 

The ordinary cellar underneath the dwelling house is too 
warn1 and damp for the proper preservation of fruit, and some 
other place should be provided if possible. A writer in the 
American Agriculturist thus calls attention to an additional 
reason why fruit should not be stored beneath living-rooms : 
"After late apples are stored fov the winter, a gradual change 
begins within the fruit. It absorbs oxygen from the air of the 
room, and gives off carbonic acid gas. Another change results 
in the formation of water, which is given off as moisture. The 
taking up of oxygen b\' the fruit and the giving off of carbonic 
acid, in a short time so vitiates the atmosphere of the room in 
which the fruit is kept, that it will at once extinguish a candle, 
and destroy animal life. An atmosphere of this kind tends 
to preserve the fruit. There being little or no oxygen left in 
the air of the room, the process of decay is arrested. Hence it 
is desirable that the room be air tight, in order to maintain 
such an atmosphere." 

The production of carbonic acid shows that a cellar in or 
under a dwelling, is an improper place for storing fresh fruit. 
When the gas is present in the air in sufficient proportion, 
it causes death, and a very small quantity will cause headache, 
listlessness, and other unpleasant effects. No doubt many 



lS4 SCIl'lNCl'; IM THK KITCIIKN. 

Iroubk-s iittributcd to malaria, arc due to gases from vegetables 
ami fruits stored in the cellar. A fruit cellar should be under- 
neath some other building rather than the dwelling, or a fruit 
liouse ma)' be built entirely above the ground. A house to 
keep fruit properly must be built upon the principle of a refrig- 
erator. Its walls, floor, and ceiling should be double, and the 
si)ace between filled with sawdust. The doors and windows 
should be double ; and as light is undesirable, the windows 
should be provided with shutters. There sliould be a small 
stove for use if needed to keep a proper temperature in severe 
weather. 

To K(M^1> (ijrjipes. ^ — Select such bunches as are perfect, rejecting all 
ni)oii whicli tliere are any bruised grapes, or from which a grape has 
fallen. vSj)read tlieni upon slielves in a cool place for a week or two. 
Tluni pack in boxes in sawdust wliich has been recently well dried in an 
oven. Bran which has been dried may also be used. Dry cotton is em- 
ployed by some. Keep in a cool place. 

Some consider the followitig a more (•i'liciciit nuUhod : Select perfect 
bunches, and dip the broken end of the stems in nu;lted paraffine or seal- 
ing wax. Wrap separately in tissue paper, hang in a cool place, or jiack 
in sawdust. 

To Keep liOiiions and Oniiig-os. — Lemons may be kept fresh for weeks 
by placing them in a vessel of cold water in a very cool cellar or ice house. 
Change the water every day. Oranges may be kei)t in the same way. 
Tlie usual method employed by growers for keejung these fruits is to wrap 
each one scpai-ately in tissue paper, and put in a cool, dry place. 

To Keep (Irnnberries. — Put tluuu in water and keep in a cool place 
where they will not freeze. Ciiangc- tlie water often, and sort out berries 
which may have become spoiled. 



KRUI'I'S. 185 



COOKED FRUIT. 

lY'rfc'ctly ri])c fruit is, as a rule.-, incji'c desirable used fresh 
tlian in any other way. I*'niits which arc- iminature, require 
c<;okiiij^. Stevviii}^ and baking are the simplest methods of 
cookinj^ fruits, and nearly all kinds admit of one of these modes 
of preparation. 

(iencral Stij^ji*;esli<nis for Cookinji*; Fruit. — The utensils 
f(;r stewin^'^ should be porcelain-lined, or f^ranite ware, h'ruit 
cooked in tin loses much of its delicate flavor ; while if it be 
acid, and the tin of poor quality, there is always danger that 
the acid of the fruit actinj^ upon the metal will form a poison- 
ous compound. Cover with a china plate or granite-ware cover, 
never with a tin one, a.s the steam will condense and run down 
into the kettle, discoloring the contents. Use only silver knives 
for preparing the fruit, and silver or wooden spoons for stirring. 
Prepare just before cof)king, if you would preserve the fruit 
perfect in flavor, and unimjjaired by discoloration. In prepar- 
ing a])plcs, pears, and (juinces for stewing, it is better to divide 
the fruit inl(j liahes or (juarters before jjaring. The fruit is 
more easily handled, can be pared thinner and coretl nif^re 
quickly. Peaches, a[)ricots, and plums, if divided and stoned 
before jjaring, can be much mc^re easily ke))t whole. 

Cook in a small quantity of boiling water, and if economy 
is a point to be considered, do not add sugar until the fruit 
is done. Sugar boiled with an acid will be converted int(; 
glucose, two and one half pounds of which only equal one 
pound of cane sugar in sweetening properties. It will recjuire 
a much larger amount of sugar to sweeten fruit if added before 
the cooking process is completed, hruit should be cooked by 
stewing, or by gentle simmering ; hard bf^iling will destroy the 
fine flavor of all fruits, and especially of berries and other small 
fruits. Cinnamon, cloves, or other spices, should not be added, 
as their stronger flavors deaden or obliterate the natural flavf)r, 
which should always be preserved as perfectly as possible. If 
desirable to add some foreign flavor, let it be the flavor of an- 



l86 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

other fruit, or the perfume of flowers. For instance, flavor 
apple with lemon, pineapple, quince, or rose water. 

Unripe fruit is improved by making the cooking quite 
lengthy, which acts in the place of the ripening process, chang- 
ing the starchy matter to saccharine elements. In cooking fruit, 
try to preserve its natural form. The more nearly whole it is, 
the better it looks, and the more natural will be its flavor. 

Apples are best cooked by baking. Pears and quinces are 
also excellent baked. The oven should be only moderately 
hot ; if the heat is too great, they brown on the outside be- 
fore they are done throughout. In cooking fruit by any 
method, pains should be taken to cook together such as are 
of the same variety, size, and degree of hardness ; if it is to 
be cut in pieces, care should be taken to have the pieces 
of uniform size. 

RECIPES. 

Baked Apples. — Moderately tart apples or very juicy sweet ones are 
best for baking. Select ripe apples, free from imperfections, and of 
nearly equal size. Wipe carefully and remove the blossom ends. Water 
sufficient to cover bottom of the baking dish should be added if the fruit 
is not very juicy. If the apples are sour and quite firm, a good way is to 
pare them before baking, and then place them in an earthen pie dish with 
a little hot water. If they incline to brown too quickl}', cover the tops with 
a granite- ware pie dish. If the syrup dries out, add a little more hot water. 
When done, set them away till nearly cold, then transfer to a glass dish, 
pour the syrup, which should be thick and amber colored, over them. 
Sour apples are excellent pared, cored, and baked with the centers filled 
with sugar, jellj^ or a mixture of chopped raisins and dates. They should 
be put into a shallow earthen dish with water sufficient to cover the 
bottom, and baked in a quick oven, basting often with the syrup. Sweet 
apples are best baked without paring. Baked apples are usually served 
as a relish, but with a dressing of cream they make a most delicious 
dessert. 

Citron Apples. — Select a few tart apples of the same degree of hard- 
ness, and remove the cores. Unless the skins are very tender, it is better 
to pare them. Fill the cavities with sugar, first placing in each apple a 
few bits of chopped citron. If the skins have been removed, place the 
stuffed apples on a flat earthen dish with a tablespoonful of water on the 
bottom ; cover closely, and bake till perfectly tender, but not till they 
have fallen to pieces. If the skins are left on, they may be baked without 



FRUITS. 187 

covering. When cold, serve in separate dishes, with ur without a spoon- 
ful or two of whipped cream on each apple. 

Lemon Apples. — Prepare tart apples the same as for citron apples. 
Fill the cavities made by removing the cores with a mixture of grated 
lemon and sugar, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over each apple, and 
bake. Serve with or without whipped cream. 

Baked Pears. — Hard pears make an excellent dessert when baked. 
Pare, halve, remove seeds, and place in a shallow earthen dish, with a 
cup of water to each two quarts of fruit. If the pears are sour, a little 
sugar may be added. Bake, closely covered, in a moderate oven until 
tender. Serve with sugar and cream. Tart pears are the best for bak- 
ing, as the sweet varieties are often tasteless. 

Baked Qninees. — Pare and remove the cores. Fill the cavities with 
sugar, ])ut in a shallow earthen dish, and add water to cover the bottom ; 
bake till soft, basting often with the syrup. If the syrup dries out before 
the fruit is perfectly tender, add a little more hot water. 

Pippins and (^nince. — Pare and quarter nice golden pippins, and cook 
in boiling water until reduced to a jelly. Add two or three quinces sliced, 
and simmer slowly in the jelly until the quince is tender. Add sugar to 
taste. Serve cold. 

Baked Apple Sance. — Pare, coi^e, and quarter apples to fill an earthen 
crock or deep pudding dish, taking care to use apples of the same degree 
of hardness, and pieces of the same size. For two quarts of fruit thus 
prepared, add a cup of water, and if the apples are sour, a cup of sugar. 
Cover closely, and bake in a moderate oven several hours, or until of a 
dark red color. 

Sweet apples and quinces in the proportion of two parts of apple to 
one of quince, baked in this way, are also good. Cut the apples into 
quarters, but slice the quinces much thinner, as they are more difficult 
to cook. Put a layer of quince on the bottom of the dish, alternating with 
a layer of apple, until the dish is full. Add cold water to half cover the 
fruit, and stew in the oven well covered, without stirring, until tender. 

Pears may be cooked in a similar waj', and both apples and pears 
thus cooked may be canned while hot and kept for a long period. 

Baked Apple Sauce No. 2. — Prepare nice tart apples as for No. i. 
Bake, with a small quantity of water, in a covered pudding dish, in a 
moderate oven, until soft. Mash with a spoon, add sugar, and when cold, 
a little grated orange rind. 

Apples Stewed Whole. — Take six large red apples, wash carefully, and 
put in a fruit kettle with just enough boiling water to cover. Cover the 
kettle, and cook slowly until the apples are soft, with the skins broken and 
the juice a rich red color. After removing the apples, boil the juice to a 
syrup, sweeten, and pour over the apples. 



l8S SClENCt; IX THE KITCHEN. 

Steamed Apples. — Select pound sweets of unifonn siiie, wipe, cut out 
the blossoni-euds, and pack in a large pudding dish. Pout" in a cupful of 
water, cover the dish closely, set in a moderate oven, and steam till the 
apples are tender. Remove from the dish, and pour the liipior over 
them frequently as they cool. 

Oompoto of .V.pplos. — Pare and extract the cores from moderately tart, 
juicv apples. Place them in a deep pudding dish with just enough water 
to cover them. Cover, place in a moderate oven, and stew until they 
are tender. Remove the apples and place in a deep dish to keep hot. 
Measure the juice and pour it into a saucepan, add a few bits of lemon 
i"ind, and boil up until thickened almost like a jelly. While the juice is 
boiling, heat some sugar, one tablespoonful to each cup of juice, in the 
oven, and add to the juice when thickened. Pour scalding hot over the 
apples, and cover until cold. 

Apple Compote \o. 2. — Pare eight or ten rather tart, finely flavored 
and easy -cooking apples, carefully removing the cores, and put them into 
a broad, shallow, granite-ware saucepan with just enough hot water to 
cover the bottom. Cover tightly and place over the fire. The steam 
will cook the apples tender in a short time. Do not allow them to fall to 
pieces. Make a syrup by dissolving one half cup of sugar in a pint of 
hot water. Add three teaspoonfuls of the juice of canned pineapple, and 
pour over the apples wliile both are hot. 

Stewed Pears. — Select some fine Bartlett pears which are ripe, but 
have hardly begun to soften; remove the skins, cut in halves or quarters, 
and take out the seeds. Put loosely in a granite-ware kettle, and add a 
pint of water for three and a half quarts of fruit. Cover closely, and 
when it begins to boil, set it where it will just simmer until the top pieces 
are tender. Serve cold. Sugar will not be necessary if the fruit is of 
good quality. 

Smooth Apple Sam^e. — If fruit is not sutficiently perfect to be cut into 
uniform quarters, a good way to prepare it is to pare, core, and slice into 
thin slices. Cook in as small a quantity of water as possible, the fruit 
covered closely, so that the top portion will steam tender as soon as the 
bottom, and when done rub through a colander, or beat smooth with a 
wooden spoon or an egg beater. Let it cool before adding sugar. A 
little lemon peel may be added to the fruit just long enough before it is 
done to flavor it, if desired. 

Boiled Apples with Syrup. — Halve and remove the cores of a half 
dozen nice apples, leaving the skins on. Boil till tender in sutficient 
water to cover them. Take out with a fork into a glass dish. Add to 
the juice three or four slices of a large lemon ; boil for ten or fifteen 
minutes ; sweeten to taste ; then pour over the apples, and cool. 



FRUITS. 189 

Stewed Apples. — Select fine fruit of a sub-acicl flavor and not over- 
ripe. Pare, remove the cores and all bleniislies, and divide into sixths 
if lai-ge, into quarters if small. Put into a porcelain or granite-ware kettle 
with cuouj;!! boiling; water to cooU and leave a good licjuor. Cover, and 
siuuner gently, without stirring, from one to two hours. Do not add 
sugar till cold. Be careful not to break the fruit in serving. 

Stewod frab Apples. — Select perfect fruit. Wash and stew in but 
little water until they are very soft. Rub through a coarse sieve 01 
colander to remove the seeds and skins. Sweeten to taste. 

Sweet Apple Sauce with Condensed Apple Jnice. — For the juice, wash, 
divide, and core rather tart apples and cook until softened witli one cup 
of water for every six pounds of fruit. When soft, put into a percolater 
and drain off the juice or extract it with a fruit press. Boil until it is re- 
duced one half. Skim if needed while boihng, and if not perfectly clear 
allow it to settle before using. A considerable quantity of the juice may 
be thus prepared and put into stone jars, to be used as needed. For the 
sauce, pare, coi'e, and quarter sweet apples. Put into a porcelain kettle 
witli enough of the condensed juice to cover. Cook slowly until tender. 

Apples with Raisins. — Pare, core, and quarter a dozen or more me- 
dium sized sour apples. Clean thoroughly one fourth as many raisins 
as apples, and turn over them a quart of boiling water. Let them steep 
until well swollen, then add the apples, and cook until tender. Sugar to 
sweeten may be added if desired, although little will be needed unless 
the apples are very tart. Dried apples soaked over night may be made 
nmch more palatable by stewing with raisins or English currants, in the 
same way. 

Apples with Apricots. — Pare, core, and (juarter some nice, sour 
apples. Put them to cook with two halves of dried apricot for each 
ai)ple. When tender, make smooth by beating or rubbing through a col- 
ander, and sweeten. Dried apjiles may be used in the place of frcsii ones. 
Peaches, Plums, Cherries, Kerries, and all small fruits may be cooked 
for. sauce by stewing in a small amount of water, adding sugar to sweeten 
when done. 

Itaked Apples. — Take any good tart apples ; peel, cut in halves, and 
remove the cores. Scatter a few spoonfuls of sugar in the bottom of a 
dish, and lay the apples in, flat side down ; add a teacupful of cold water, 
and bake till tender. Let stand in the dish till cold, then take up the 
pieces in a vegetable dish, and pour over them what juice remains. Sweet 
apples are good baked in this way without sugar. 

Baked Pears. — Peel ripe pears ; cut in halves, and pack in layers in a 
stone ware jar. Strew a little sugar over each layer, and add a small 
cupful of water, to prevent burning. Cover tightly, and bake three or 



190 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

four hours iu a well-heated oven. Let them get very cold, and serve with 
sweet cream. 

Baked Peaclies. — Peaches which are ripe but too hard for eating, are 
nice baked. Pare, remove the stones, and place in loose layers in a 
shallow, earthen pudding dish with a little water. Sprinkle each layer 
lightly with sugar, cover and bake. 

Cranberries. — Cranberries make an excellent sauce, but the skins are 
rather hard of digestion, and it is best to exclude them. Stew in the pro- 
portion of a quart of berries to a pint of water, simmering gently until the 
skins have all burst, and the quantity is reduced to a pint. Put through a 
colander to remove the skins, and when nearly cool, add for the quart of 
berries two thirds of a cup of sugar. 

Cranberries with Raisins.— Cook the cranberries as in the preceding 
recipe, and when rubbed through the colander, add for every pound of 
cranberries before cooking, one fourth pound of raisins which have been 
steeped for half an hour in just sufficient boiling water to cover. A little 
less sugar will be needed to sweeten than when served without the raisins. 

Cranberries and Sweet Apples. — Stew equal parts of cranberries and 
sweet apples together. Mash, rub through a fine sieve or colander to 
remove the skins and make the whole homogeneous. This makes a very 
palatable sauce without the addition of sugar. California prunes and 
cranberries stewed together in equal proportion, in a small quantity of 
water, also make a nice sauce without sugar. 

Orang-es and Apples. — The mild, easy cooking, tart varieties of apples 
make an excellent sauce stewed with one third sliced oranges from which 
the seeds have been removed. Pare, core, and slice the apples, and cook 
gently so as to preserve the form of both fruits until the apples are 
tender. Add sugar to sweeten, and if desired a very little of the grated 
yellow of the orange rind. 

Stewed Raisins. — Soak a pint of good raisins, cleaned and freed from 
stems, in cold water for several hours. When ready to cook, put them, 
with the water in which they were soaked, in a fruit kettle and simmer 
until the skins are tender. Three or four good-sized figs, chopped quite 
fine, cooked with the raisins, gives an additional richness and thickness 
of juice. No sugar will be needed. 

Dried Apples. — Good apples properly dried make a very palatable 
sauce ; but unfortunately the fruit generally selected for drying is of so 
inferior a quality that if cooked in its fresh state it would not be good. 
The dried fruit in most of our markets needs to be looked over carefully, 
and thoroughly washed before using. Put into a granite-ware kettle, 
cover with boiling water, and cook gently until tender. Fresh steam-dried 
or evaporated apples will cook in from one half to three fourths of an 
hour ; if older, they may require from one to two or more hours. Add 



FRUITS. 191 

boiling water, as needed, during the cooking. If when tender they are 
lacking in juice, add a little boiling water long enough before lifting from 
the fire to allow it to boil up once. If the fruit is very poor, a few very 
thin slices of the yellow portion of lemon or orange rind added a half 
hour before it is done, will sometimes be an improvement. 

Dricil Apples with Other Dried Fruit. — An excellent sauce may be 
made b}- cooking a few dried plums with dried or evaporated apples. Only 
enough of the plums to give a flavor to the apples will be needed ; a hand- 
ful of the former to a pound of apples will be sufficient. Dried cherries, 
raisins, English currants, dried apricots, prunelles, and peaches are also 
excellent used in combination with dried apples. 

Dried Apricots and IVaelies. — These fruits, if dried with the skins on, 
need, in addition to the preparation for cooking recommended for dried 
apples, a thorough rubbing with the fingers, while being washed, to remove 
the down. Put into boiling water in about the proportion of two parts 
of fruit to three of water. If the fruit was pared before drying, a little 
more water will be required. Cook (piickly, but gently, until just tender, 
and take from the fire as soon as done. If too soft, they will be mushy 
and insipid. 

Evaporated Peach Sauce. — Soak the peaches over night in just enough 
water to cover. In the morning put to cook in boiling water. When 
tender, sweeten and beat perfectly smooth with an egg beater. 

Dried Pears. — These maj' be treated in the same way as dried apples. 

Small Fruits. — These when dried must be carefully examined, thor- 
oughly washed, and then cooked rather quickly in boiling water. They 
swell but little, do not require nmch water, and usually cook in a few 
minutes. They should be taken from the fire as soon as soft, as long 
standing makes them insipid. 

Prunes. — Use only the best selected prunes. Clean by putting them 
into warm water ; let them stand a few minutes, rubbing them gently 
between the hands to make sure that all dust and dirt is removed ; rinse, 
and if rather dry and hard, put them into three parts of water to one of 
prunes ; cover closely, and let them simmer for several hours. If the 
prunes are quite easily cooked, less water may be used. They will be 
tender, with a thick juice. The sweet varieties need no sugar whatever. 
Many persons who cannot eat fruit cooked with sugar, can safely partake 
of sweet prunes cooked in this way. A slice of lemon added just before 
the prunes are done, is thought an improvement. 

Prune Marmalade. — Cook sweet California prunes as directed above. 
When well done, rub through a colander to remove the skins and stones. 
No sugar is necessary. If the pulp is too thin when cold, it may be 
covered in an earthen pudding dish and stewed down by placing in a pan 
of hot water in a moderate oven. 



192 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

THE PRESERVATION OF FRUIT. 

Fresh fruit is so desirable, while at the same time the season 
during which most \arieties can be obtained is so transient, 
that various methods are resorted to for preserving it in as 
nearly a natural state as possible. The old-fashioned plans 
of pickling in salt, alcohol, or vinegar, or preserving in equal 
quantities of sugar, are eminently unhygienic. Quite as much 
to be condemned is the more modern process of keeping fruit 
by adding to it some preserving agent, like salicylic acid or 
other chemicals. Salic}'lic acid is an antiseptic, and like main- 
other substances, such as carbolic acid, creosote, etc., has the 
power of preventing the decay of organic substances. Sali- 
c\-lic acid holds the preference over other drugs of this class, 
because it imparts no unpleasant flavor to the fruit. It is 
nevertheless a powerful and irritating drug, and when taken. 
even in small doses, produces intense burning in the stomach, 
and occasions serious disturbances of the heart and other 
organs. Its habitual use produces gra\e diseases. 

What is sold as antifermentive is simph' the well-known 
antiseptic, salic)-late of soda. It should be self-evident to one 
at all acquainted with the philosophy of animal existence, that 
an agent which will prevent fermentation and deca)- must be 
sufficiently powerful in its influence to prevent digestion also. 

The fermentation and decay of fruits as well as that of 
all other organic substances, is occasioned by the action of 
those minute living organisms which scientists call germs, and 
which are everywhere present. These germs are ver\- much 
less active in a dry, cold atmosphere, and fruit may be pre- 
served for quite a long period by refrigeration, an arrangement 
wliereb)- the external air is excluded, and the surrounding at- 
mosphere kept at an equal temperature of about 40° F. The 
most efficient and wholesome method of preserving fruit, how- 
ever, is destruction of the germs and entire exclusion from the 
air. The germs are destroyed at a boiling temperature ; hence, 
if fruit be heated to boiling, and when in this condition sealed 
in air-tight receptacles, it will keep for an unlimited period. 



FRUITS. 193 

CANNING FRUIT. 

Canning consists in sealing in air-tight cans or jars, fruit 
which has been previously boiled. It is a very simple pro- 
cess, but requires a thorough understanding of the scientific 
principles involved, and careful management, to make it suc- 
cessful. The result of painstaking effort is so satisfactory, 
however, it is well worth all the trouble, and fruit canning 
need not be a difficult matter if attention is given to the fol- 
lowing details : — 

Select self-sealing glass cans of some good variety. Tin 
cans give more trouble filling and sealing, are liable to affect 
the flavor of the fruit, and unless manufactured from the best of 
material, to impair its wholesomeness. Glass cans may be used 
more than once, and are thus much more economical. Those 
with glass covers, or porcelain-lined covers, are best. Test 
the cans to see if they are perfect, with good rubbers and 
covers that fit closely, by partly filling them with cold water, 
screwing on the tops, and placing bottom upward upon the 
table for some time before using. If none of the water leaks 
out, they may be considered in good condition. If the cans 
have been previously used, examine them with special care 
to see that both cans and covers have been carefully cleaned, 
then thoroughly sterilize them, and fit with new rubbers when 
necessary. 

Cans and covers should be sterilized by boiling in water for 
half an hour, or by baking in an oven, at a temperature suffi- 
cient to scorch paper, for two hours. The cans should be 
placed in the water or oven when cold, and the temperature 
allowed to rise gradually, to avoid breaking. They should be 
allowed to cool gradually, for the same purpose. 

Select only the best of fruit, such as is perfect in flavor and 
neither green nor over-ripe. Fruit which has been shipped 
from a distance, and which is consequently not perfectly fresh, 
contains germs in active growth, and if the least bit musty, it 
will be almost sure to spoil, even though the greatest care 
jTiay be taken in canning. 



194 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Poor fruit Avill not be improved by canning; over-ripe fruit 
will be insipid and mushy ; and though cooking will soften 
hard fruit, it cannot impart to it the delicate flavors which be- 
long to that which is in its prime. The larger varieties of fruit 
should not be quite soft enough for eating. Choose a dry day 
for gathering, and put up at once, handling as little as possi- 
ble. Try to keep it clean enough to avoid washing. If the 
fruit is to be pared, use a silver knife for the purpose, as steel 
is apt to discolor the fruit. If the fruit is one needing to be 
divided or stoned, it will be less likely to become broken if 
divided before paring. 

Cook the fruit slowly in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware 
kettle, using as little water as possible. It is better to cook 
only small quantities at a time in one kettle. Steaming in the 
cans is preferable to stewing, Avhere the fruit is at all soft. To 
do this, carefully fill the cans with fresh fruit, packing it quite 
closely, if the fruit is large, and set the cans in a boiler partly 
filled with cold water, with something underneath them to 
prevent breaking, — muffin rings, straw, or thick cloth, or any- 
thing to keep them from resting on the bottom of the boiler 
(a rack made by nailing together strips of lath is very con- 
venient) ; screw the covers on the cans so the water cannot 
boil into them, but not so tightly as to prevent the escape of 
steam ; heat the water to boiling, and steam the fruit until ten- 
der. Peaches, pears, crab apples, etc., to be canned with a 
syrup, may be advantageously cooked by placing on a napkin 
in a steamer, over a kettle of boiling water until tender, then 
dropped into the boiling syrup. 

Fruit for canning should be so thoroughly cooked that 
every portion of it will have been subjected to a sufficient 
degree of heat to destroy all germs within the fruit, but over- 
cooking should be avoided. The length of time required for 
cooking fruits for canning, varies with the kind and quality 
of fruit and the manner of cooking. Fruit is more frequently 
spoiled by being cooked an insufficient length of time, than by 
over-cooking. Prolonged cooking at a boiling temperature is 
necessary for the destruction of certain kinds of germs capable 



FRUITS. 195 

of inducing fermentation. Fifteen minutes may be considered 
as the shortest time for which even the most delicate fruits 
should be subjected to the temperature of boiling water, and 
thirty minutes will be required by most fruits. Fruits which 
are not perfectly fresh, or which have been shipped some dis- 
tance, should be cooked not less than thirty minutes. The 
boiling should be very slow, however, as hard, rapid boiling 
will break up the fruit, and much of its fine flavor will be lost 
in the steam. 

Cooking the sugar with the fruit at the time of canning, is 
not to be recommended from an economical standpoint ; but 
fruit thus prepared is more likely to keep well than when 
cooked without sugar ; not, however, because of the preserva- 
tive influence of the sugar, which is too small in amount to 
prevent the action of germs, as in the case of preserves, but 
because the addition of sugar to the water or fruit juice in- 
creases its specific gravity, and thus raises the boiling point. 
From experiments made, I have found that the temperature of 
the fruit is ordinarily raised about 5° by the addition of the 
amount of sugar needed for sweetening sub-acid fruit. By the 
aid of this additional degree of heat, the germs are more cer- 
tainly destroyed, and the sterilization of the fruit will be 
accomplished in a shorter time. 

Another advantage gained in cooking sugar with the fruit 
at the time of canning, is that the fruit may be cooked for a 
longer time without destroying its form, as the sugar abstracts 
the juice of the fruit, and thus slightly hardens it and prevents 
its falling in pieces. 

The temperature to which the fruit is subjected may also be 
increased by the same method as that elsewhere described for 
sterilizing milk, the covers of the cans being screwed down 
tightly before they are placed in the sterilizer, or as soon as 
the boiling point is approached, so that the steam issues freely 
from the can. See page 396. If this method is employed, it 
must be remembered that the cans should not be removed from 
the sterilizer until after they have become cold, or nearly so, 
by being allowed to stand over night, 



196 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Use the best sugar, two tablespoonfuls to a quart of fruit 
is sufficient for most sub-acid fruits, as berries and peaches ; 
plums, cherries, strawberries, and currants require from five 
to eight tablespoonfuls of sugar to a quart. Have the sugar 
hot, by spreading it on tins and heating in the oven, stirring 
occasionally. See that it does not scorch. Add it when the 
fruit is boiling. Pears, peaches, apples, etc., which contain a 
much smaller quantity of juice than do berries, may be canned 
in a syrup prepared by dissolving a cup of sugar in two or 
three cups of water. Perfect fruit, properly canned, will keep 
without sugar, and the natural flavor of the fruit is more per- 
fectly retained when the sugar is left out, adding the necessary 
amount when opened for use. 

If the fruit is to be cooked previous to being put in the 
cans, the cans should be heated before the introduction of the 
fruit, which should be put in at a boiling temperature. Vari- 
ous methods are employed for this purpose. Some wrap the 
can in a towel wrung out of hot water, keeping a silver spoon 
inside while it is being filled ; others employ dry heat by 
keeping the cans in a moderately hot oven while the fruit is 
cooking. 

Another and surer way is to fill a large dishpan nearly full 
of scalding (not boiling) water, then gradually introduce each 
can, previously baked, into the water, dip it full of water, 
and set it right side up in the pan. Repeat the process with 
other cans until four or five are ready. Put the covers like- 
wise into boiling water. Have in readiness for use a granite- 
ware funnel and dipper, also in boiling water ; a cloth for 
wiping the outside of the cans, a silver fork or spoon, a dish 
for emptyings, and a broad shallow pan on one side of the 
range, half filled with boiling water, in which to set the cans 
while being filled. When everything is in readiness, the fruit 
properly cooked, and at a boiling tcrnperatiire, turn one of the 
cans down in the water, roll it over once or twice, empty it, 
and set in the shallow pan of hot water ; adjust the funnel, 
and then place first in the can a quantity of juice, so that when 
the fruit is put in, no vacant places will be left for air, whigh is 



FRUITS. 



197 



sometimes quite troublesome if this precaution is not taken ; 
then add the fruit. If any bubbles of air chance to be left, 
work them out with a fork or spoon handle, which first dip in 
boilinij water, and then quickly introduce down the sides of the 
jar and through the fruit in such a way that not a bubble will 
remain. Fill the can to overflowing, remembering that any 
vacuum invites the air to enter ; use boiling water or syrup 
when there is not enough juice. Skim all froth from the fruit, 




t'.TiHiiiig Utensils. 



adding more juice if necessary ; wipe the juice from the top 
of the can, adjust the rubber, put on the top, and screw it down 
as quickly as possible. If the fruit is cooked in the cans, 
as soon as it is sufficiently heated, fill the can completely full 
with boiling juice, syrup, or water ; run the handle of a silver 
spoon around the inside of the can, to make sure the juice 
entirely surrounds every portion of fruit, and that no spaces 
for air remain, put on the rubbers, wipe off all juice, and seal 
quickly. 



198 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

As the fruit cools, the cover can be tightened, and this 
should be promptly done again and again as the glass contracts, 
so that no air may be allowed to enter. 

If inconvenient to fill the cans directly from the stove, the 
fruit may be kept at boiling heat by placing the kettle on a 
lamp stove on the table, on Avhich the other utensils are in 
readiness. Many failures in fruit canning are due to neglect 
to have the fruit boiling hot when put into the cans. 

When the cans are filled, set them away from currents of 
air, and not on ,a very cold surface, to avoid danger of crack- 
ing. A good way is to set the cans on a wet towel, and 
cover with a woolen cloth as a protection from draughts. 

After the cans have cooled, and the tops have been screwed 
down tightly, place them in a cool place, bottom upward, and 
watch closely for a few days. If the juice begins to leak out, 
or any appearance of fermentation is seen, it is a sign that the 
work has failed, and the only thing to do is to open the can im- 
mediately, boil the fruit, and use as quickly as possible ; re-can- 
ning will not save it unless boiled a long time. If no signs of 
spoiling are observed within two or three weeks, the fruit may 
be safely stored away in a dark, cool place. If one has no dark 
storeroom, it is an advantage to wrap each can in brown pa- 
per, to keep out the light. 

Sometimes the fruit will settle so that a little space ap- 
pears at the top. If you are perfectly sure that the can is 
tight, do not open to refill, as you will be unable to make it 
quite as tight again, unless you reheat the fruit, in which case 
you would be liable to have the same thing occur again. Air 
is dangerous because it is likely to contain germs, though in 
itself harmless. 

If mold is observed upon the top of a can, it should be 
opened, and the fruit boiled and used at once, after carefully 
skimming out all moldy portions. If there is evidence of fer- 
mentation, the fruit should be thrown away, as it contains 
alcohol. 

If care be taken to provide good cans, thoroughly sterilized, 
and with perfectly fitting covers ; to use only fruit in good 



FRUITS. 199 

condition ; to have it thoroughly cooked, and at boiling tem- 
perature when put into the cans ; to have the cans well baked 
and heated, filled completely and to overflowing, and sealed at 
once while the fruit is still near boiling temperature, there will 
be little likelihood of failure. 

Opening Canned Fruit. — Canned fruit is best opened a 
short time before needed, that it may be well aerated ; and if 
it has been canned without sugar, it should have the necessary 
quantity added, so that it may be well dissolved before using. 

F'ruit or vegetables canned in tin cans should be rem.oved 
from the cans as soon as opened. If not, the action of the air 
sometimes causes the acid of the fruit or vegetables to act 
upon the tin and form a poisonous compound. 

Fruit purchased in tin cans should be selected with the 
utmost care, since unscrupulous dealers sometimes use cans 
which render the fruit wholly unfit for food. 

The following rules which we quote from a popular scien- 
tific journal should be carefully observed in selecting canned 
fruit : — 

"Reject every can that does not have the name of the 
manufacturer or firm upon it, as well as the name of the 
company and the town where manufactured. All ' Stand- 
ards ' have this. When the wholesale dealer is ashamed to 
have his name on the goods, be shy of him. 

" Reject every article of canned goods which does not show 
the line of resin around the edge of the solder of the cap, the 
same as is seen on the seam at the side of the can. 

"Press up the bottom of the can ; if decomposition is begin- 
ning, the tin will rattle the same as the bottom of your sewing- 
machine oil can does. If the goods are sound, it will be solid, 
and there will be no rattle to the tin. 

"Reject every can that shows any rust around the cap, on 
the inside of the head of the can. Old and battered cans 
should be rejected ; as, if they have been used several times, 
the contents are liable to contain small amounts of tin or lead." 



200 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



REC/PES. 



To Can Strawberries. — These are generally considered more difficult 
to can than most other berries. Use none but sound fruit, and put up the 
day they are picked, if possible. Heat the fruit slowly to the boiling point, 
and cook fifteen minutes or longer, adding the sugar hot, if any be used, 
after the fruit is boiling. Strawberries, while cooking, have a ten- 
dency to rise to the top, and unless they are kept pushed down, will not 
be cooked uniformly, which is doubtless one reason they sometimes fail to 
keep well. The froth should also be kept skimmed off. Fill the cans as 
directed on page 197, taking special care to let out every air bubble, and 
to remove every particle of froth from the top of the can before sealing. 
If the berries are of good size, they may be cooked in the cans, adding a 
boiling syrup prepared with one cup of water and one of sugar for each 
quart can of fruit. 

If after the cans are cold, the fruit rises to the top, as it frequently 
does, take the cans and gently shake until the fruit is well saturated with 
the juice and falls by its own weight to the bottom, or low enough to be 
entirely covered with the liquid. 

To Cau Raspberries, Blackberries, aud Other Small Fruits. — Select none 
but good, sound berries ; those freshly picked are best ; reject any green, 
over-ripe, mashed, or worm-eaten fruit. If necessary to wash the berries, 
do so by putting a quart at a time in a colander, and dipping the dish 
carefully into a pan of clean water, letting it stand for a moment. If 
the water is very dirty, repeat the process in a second water. Drain 
thoroughly, and if to be cooked previous to putting in the cans, put into 
a porcelain kettle with a very small quantity of water, and heat slowly to 
boiling. If sugar is to be used, have it hot, but do not add it until the 
fruit is boiling ; and before doing so, if there is much juice, dip out the 
surplus, and leave the berries with only a small quantity, as the sugar 
will have a tendency to draw out more juice, thus furnishing plenty 
for sj'rup. 

Raspberries are so juicy that they need scarcely more than a pint of 
water to two quarts of fruit. 

The fruit may be steamed in the cans if preferred. When thoroughly 
scalded, if sugar is to be used, fill the can with a boiling syrup made by 
dissolving the requisite amount of sugar in water ; if to be canned with- 
out sugar, fill up the can with boiling water or juice. 

Seal the fruit according to directions previously given. 
To Can Gooseberries. — Select such as are smooth and turning red, but 
not fully ripe ; wash and remove the stems and blossom ends. For three 
quarts of fruit allow one quart of water. Heat slowly to boiling ; cook 



FRUITS. 20I 

fifteen minutes, add a cupful of sugar which has been heated dry in the 
oven ; boil two or three minutes longer, and can. 

To Can Peaches. — Select fruit which is perfectly ripe and sound, but 
not very much softened. Free-stone peaches are the best. Put a few at 
a time in a wire basket, and dip into boiling water for a moment, and 
then into cold water, to cool the fruit sufficiently to handle with comfort. 
The skins may then be rubbed orpeeled off easily, if done quickly, and the 
fruit divided into halves ; or wipe with a clean cloth to remove all dirt and 
the wool, and with a silver knife cut in halves, remove the stone, and then 
pare each piece, dropping it into cold water at once, to prevent discolora- 
tion. Peaches cut before being pared are less likely to break in pieces 
while removing the stones. When ready, pour a cupful of water in the 
bottom of the kettle, and fill with peaches, scattering sugar among the 
layers, in the proportion of a heaping tablespoonful to a quart of fruit. 
Heat slowly, boil fifteen minutes or longer till a silver fork can be easily 
passed through the pieces ; can in the usual way, and seal ; or, fill the 
cans with the halved peaches, and place them in a boiler of warm water 
with something underneath to avoid breaking ; cook until perfectly tender. 
Have ready a boiling syrup prepared with one half cup of sugar and two 
cups of water, and pour into each can all that it will hold, remove air 
bubbles, cover and seal. A few of the pits may be cooked in the syrup, and 
removed before adding to the fruit, when their special flavor is desired. 

Another Method. — After paring and halving the fruit, lay a clean 
napkin in the bottom of a steamer ; fill with the fruit. Steam until a fork 
will easily penetrate the pieces. Have ready a boiling syrup prepared as 
directed above, put a few spoonfuls in the bottom of the hot cans, and dip 
each piece of fruit gently in the hot syrup ; then as carefully place it in 
the jars. Fill with the syrup, and finish in the usual way. 

Peaches canned without sugar, retain more nearly their natural flavor. 
To prepare in this way, allow one half pint of water to each pound of 
fruit. Cook slowly until tender, and can in the usual manner. When 
wanted for the table, open an hour before needed, and sprinkle lightly 
with sugar. 

To Can Pears. — The pears should be perfectly ripened, but not soft. 
Pare with a silver knife, halve or quarter, remove the seeds, and drop 
into a pan of cold water to prevent discoloration. Prepare a syrup, 
allowing a cup of sugar and a quart of water to each two quarts of fruit. 
When the syrup boils, put the pears into it very carefully, so as not to 
bruise or break them, and cook until they look clear and can be easily 
pierced with a fork. Have the cans heated, and put in first a little of 
the syrup, then pack in the pears very carefully ; fill to overflowing with 
the scalding syrup, and finish as previously directed. The tougher and 



202 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

hardei" varieties of pears must be coolved till nearh' tender in hot water, 
or steamed over a kettle of boiling water, before adding to the syrup, and 
may then be finished as above. If it is desirable to keep the pears whole, 
cook only those of a uniform size together ; or if of assorted sizes, put 
the larger ones into the syrup a few minutes before the smaller ones. 
Some prefer boiling the skins of the pears in the water of which the syrup 
is to be made, and skimming them out before putting in the sugar. This 
is thought to impart a finer flavor. Pears which are vei'y sweet, or nearly 
tasteless, may be improved by using the juice of a large lemon for each 
quart of syrup. Pears may be cooked in the cans, if preferred. 

To Can Plums. — Green Gages and Damsons are best for canning. 
Wipe clean with a soft cloth. Allow a half cup of water and the same of 
sugar to every three quarts of fruit, in preparing a syrup. Pick each 
plum with a silver fork to prevent it from bursting, and while the syrup is 
heating, turn in the fruit, and boil until thoroughly done. Dip carefully 
into hot jars, fill with syrup, and cover immediately. 

To Can Cherries. — These may be put up whole in the same way as 
plums, or pitted and treated as directed for berries, allowing about two 
quarts of water and a scant pint of sugar to five quarts of solid fruit, for 
the tart varieties, and not quite half as much sugar for the sweeter ones. 

To Can Mixed Fruit. — There are some fruits with so little flavor that 
when cooked they are apt to taste insipid, and are much improved by can- 
ning with some acid or strongly flavored fruits. 

Blackberries put up with equal quantities of blue or red plums, or in 
the proportion of one to three of the sour fruit, are much better than 
either of these fruits canned separately. Black caps are much better if 
canned with currants, in the proportion of one part currants to four of 
black caps. 

Red and black raspberries, cherries and raspberries, are also ex- 
cellent combinations. 

Quinces witll Apples. — Pare and cut an equal quantity of firm 
sweet apples and quinces. Fii'st stew the quinces till they are tender in 
sufficient water to cover. Take them out, and cook the apples in the 
same water. Lay the apples and quinces in alternate layers in a porce- 
lain kettle or crock. Have ready a hot syrup made with one part sugar 
to two and a half parts water, pour over the fruit, and let it stand all 
night. The next day reheat to boiling, and can. 

Quinces and sweet apples may be canned in the same way as directed 
below for plums and sweet apples, using equal parts of apples and 
quinces, and adding sugar when opened. 

Plums with Sweet Apples. — Prepare the plums, and stew in water 
enough to cover. When tender, skim out, add to the juice an equal 



FRUITS. 203 

quantity of quartered sweet apples, and stew till nearly tender. Add the 
I)lums again, boil together for a few minutes, and can. When wanted for 
the table, open, sprinkle with sugar if any seems needed, let stand awhile, 
and serve. 

To Can Grapes. — Grapes have so many seeds that tliey do not form a 
very palatable sauce when canned entire. Pick carefully from the stems, 
wash in a colander the same as directed for berries, and drain. Remove 
the skins, dropping them into one earthen crock and the pulp into an- 
other. Place both crocks in kettles of hot water over the stove, and heat 
slowly, stirring the pulp occasionally until the seeds will come out clean. 

Then rub the pulp through a colander, add the skins to it, and a 
cupful of sugar for each quart of pulp. Return to the fire, boil twenty 
minutes until the skins are tender, and can ; or, if preferred, the whole 
grapes may be heated, and when well scalded so that the seeds are 
loosened, pressed through a colander, thus rejecting both seeds and skins, 
boiled, then sweetened if desired, and canned. 

To Can Crab Apples. — These may be cooked whole, and canned the 
same way as plums. 

To Can Apples. — Prepare and can the same as pears, when fresh and 
fine in flavor. If old and rather tasteless, the following is a good way : — 

Prepare a syrup of the juice of four large or six small lemons, with 
several thin slices of the yellow part of the rind, four cups of sugar, and 
three pints of boiling water. Pare and quarter the apples, or if small, 
only halve them, and cook gently in a broad-bottomed closely-covered 
saucepan, with as little water as possible, till tender, but not broken ; 
then pour the syrup over them, heat all to boiling, and can at once. The 
apples may be cooked by steaming over a kettle of hot water, if preferred. 
Care must be taken to cook those of the same degree of hardness together. 
The slices of lemon rind should be removed from the syrup before using. 

To Can Pineapples. — The writer has had no experience in canning this 
fruit, but the following method is given on good authority : Pare very 
carefully with a silver knife, remove all the " eyes " and black specks ; 
then cut the sections in which the " eyes" were, in solid pieces clear down 
to the core. By doing this all the valuable part of the fruit is saved, 
leaving its hard, woody center. As, however, this contains considerable 
juice, it should be taken in the hands and wrung as one wrings a cloth, 
till the juice is extracted, then thrown away. Prepare a syrup with one 
part sugar and two parts water, using what juice has been obtained in 
place of so much water. Let it boil up, skim clean, then add the fruit. 
Boil just as little as possible and have the fruit tender, as pineapple loses 
its flavor by over-cooking more readily than any other fruit. Put into hot 
cans, and seal. 



204 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

FRUIT JELLIES. 

The excess of sugar commonly employed in preparing 
jellies often renders them the least wholesome of fruit 
preparations, and we cannot recommend our readers to 
spend a great amount of time in putting up a large stock of 
such articles. 

The juice of some fruits taken at the right stage of matur- 
ity may be evaporated to a jelly without sugar, but the process 
is a more lengthy one, and requires a much larger quantity of 
juice than when sugar is used. 

Success in the preparation of fruit jellies depends chiefly 
upon the amount of pectose contained in the fruit. Such fruits 
as peaches, cherries, and others containing but a small propor- 
tion of pectose, cannot be made into a firm jelly. All 
fruit for jelly should, if possible, be freshly picked, and before 
it is over-ripe, as it has then a much better flavor. The pec- 
tose, the jelly-producing element, deteriorates with age, so 
that jelly made from over-ripe fruit is less certain to "form." 
If the fruit is under-ripe, it will be too acid to give a pleasant 
flavor. Examine carefully, as for canning, rejecting all wormy, 
knotty, unripe, or partially decayed fruit. If necessary to 
wash, drain very thoroughly. 

Apples, quinces, and similar fruits may require to be first 
cooked in a smiall amount of water. The juice of berries, cur- 
rants, and grapes, may be best extracted by putting the fruit 
in a granite-ware double boiler, or a covered earthen crock 
placed inside a kettle of boiling water, mashing as much as 
possible with a spoon, and steammg without the addition of 
water until the fruit is well scalded and broken. 

For straining the juice, have a funnel-shaped bag made of 
coarse flannel or strong, coarse linen crash. The bag will be 
found more handy if a small hoop of wire is sewn around 
the top and two tapes attached to hang it by while the hot 
juice is draining, or a wooden frame to support the bag 
may be easily constructed like the one shown on page 74. A 
dish to receive the juice should be placed underneath the bag, 



FRUITS. 205 

which should first be wrung out of hot water, and the scalded 
fruit, a small quantity at a time, turned in ; then with two large 
spoons press the sides of the bag well, moving the fruit around 
in the bag to get out all the juice, and removing the pressed 
pulp and skins each time before putting in a fresh supply of the 
hot fruit. If a very clear jelly is desired, the juice must be 
allowed to drain out without pressing or squeezing. The juice 
of berries, grapes, and currants may be extracted without the 
fruit being first scalded, if preferred, by putting the fruit into 
an earthen or granite-ware dish, and mashing well with a 
wooden potato masher, then putting into a jelly bag and allow- 
ing the juice to drain off for several hours. 

When strained, if the jelly is to be prepared with sugar, 
measure the juice and pour it into a granite or porcelain fruit 
kettle with a very broad bottom, so that as much surface can be 
on the stove as possible. It is better to boil the juice in quan- 
tities of not more than two or three quarts at a time, unless one 
has some utensil in which a larger quantity can be cooked with 
no greater depth of liquid than the above quantity would give 
in a common fruit kettle. The purpose of the boiling is to 
evaporate the water from the juice, and this can best be ac- 
complished before the sugar is added. The sugar, if boiled with 
the juice, also darkens the jelly. 

The average length of time required for boiling the juice of 
most berries, currants, and grapes, extracted as previously 
directed, before adding the sugar, is twenty minutes from the 
time it begins to bubble all over its surface. It is well to test 
the jelly occasionally, however, by dropping a small quantity 
on a plate to cool, since the quantity of juice and the rapidity 
with which it is boiled, may necessitate some variation in 
time. In wet seasons, fruits of all kinds absorb more moisture 
and a little longer boiling may be necessary. The same is 
true of the juice of fruits gathered after a heavy rain. Jellies 
prepared with sugar are generally made of equal measures of 
juice, measured before boiling, and sugar ; but a very scant 
measure of sugar is sufficient, and a less amount will sufifice 
for man^ fruits, White granulated sugar is best for all jellies, 



206 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

While the juice is heating-, spread the sugar evenly on shallow 
tins, and heat in the oven, stirring occasionally to keep it from 
scorching. If portions melt, no great harm will be done, as 
the melted portions will form in lumps when turned into the 
juice, and can be removed with a spoon. When the juice has 
boiled twenty minutes, turn in the sugar, which should be so 
hot that the hand cannot be borne in it with comfort, stir- 
ring rapidly until it is all dissolved. Let the syrup boil 
again for three or four minutes, then take immediately from 
the fire. Heat the jelly glasses (those with glass covers are 
best), by rolling in hot water,, and place them in a shallow pan 
partially filled with hot Avater, or stand them on a wet, folded 
towel while filling. If it is desired to have the jelly exception- 
ally clear and nice, it may be turned through a bag of cheese 
cloth, previously wrung out of hot water, into the jelly glasses. 
If the covers of the glasses are not tight fitting, a piece of 
firm paper should be fitted over the top before putting on the 
cover, to make it air tight. Pint self-sealing fruit cans are 
excellent for storing jelly, and if it is sealed in them in the 
same maimer as canned fruit, will keep perfectly, and obviate 
any supposed necessity for the use of brandied paper as a pre- 
servative measure. Label each variety, and keep in some 
cool, dry place. If the jelly is not sufficiently firm when first 
made, set the glasses in the sunshine for several days, until the 
jelly becomes more firm. This is better than reheating and 
boiling again, as it destroys less of the flavor of the fruit. 

REC/RES. 

Apple Jelly. — Cut nice tart apples in quarters, but unless wormy, do 
not peel or core. Put into a porcelain kettle with a cup of water for each 
six pounds of fruit, and simmer very slowly until the apples are thoroughly 
cooked. Turn into a jelly-bag, and drain off the juice. If very tart, allow 
three fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. If sub-acid, one 
half pound will be sufficient. Put the sugar into the oven to heat. Clean 
the kettle, and boil the juice therein twenty minutes after it begins to boil 
thoroughly. 'Add the sugar, stirring until well dissolved, let it boil up 
once again, and remove from the fire. The juice of one lemon may be 
used with the apples, and a few bits of lemon rind, the yellow portion 



FRUITS. 307 

only, cooked with them to give them a flavor, if liked. One third cran- 
berry juice makes a pleasing combination. 

Apple Jelly ivitliont Sug-ar.— Select juicy, white fleshed, sub-acid fruit, 
perfectly sound and mature, but not mellow. The snow apple is one of 
the best varieties for this purpose. Wash well, slice, and core without 
removing the skins, and cook as directed in the preceding recipe. Drain 
off the juice, and if a very clear jelly is desired, filter it through a piece of 
cheese cloth previously wrung out of hot water. Boil the juice, — rapidly 
at first, but more gently as it becomes thickened, — until of the desired 
consistency. The time required will vary with the quantity of juice, the 
shallowness of the dish in which it is boiled, and the heat employed. One 
hour at least, will be required for one or two quarts of juice. When the 
juice has become considerably evaporated, test it frequently by dipping a 
few drops on a plate to cool ; and when it jellies sufficiently, remove at once 
from the fire. A much larger quantity of juice will be needed for jelly 
prepared in this manner than when sugar is used, about two quarts of 
juice being required for one half pint of jelly. Such jelly, however, has a 
most delicious flavor, and is excellent served with grains. Diluted with 
water, it forms a most pleasing beverage. 

Berry and Currant Jellies. — Express the juice according to the direc- 
tions already given. For strawberries, red raspberries, and currants, 
allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Black rasp- 
berries, if used alone, need less sugar. Strawberry and black raspberry 
juice make better jelly if a little lemon juice is used. The juice of one 
lemon to each pint of fruit juice will be needed for black raspberries. 
Two parts red or black raspberries with one part currants, make a better 
jelly than either alone. Boil the juice of strawberries, red raspberries, 
and currants twenty minutes, add the sugar, and finish as previously di- 
rected. Black raspberry juice is much thicker, and requii'es less boiling. 

Cherry Jelly. — Jelly may be prepared from cherries by using with the 
juice of the cherries an equal quantity of apple juice, which gives an 
additional amount of pectose to the juice and does not perceptibly change 
the flavor. 

Crab Apple Jelly. — Choose the best Siberian crab apples; cut into 
pieces, but do not pare or remove seeds. Place in a porcelain-lined or 
granite-ware double boiler, with a cup of water for each six pounds of 
fruit, and let them remain on the back of the range, with the water slowly 
boiling, seven or eight hours. Leave in the boiler or turn into a large 
china bowl, and keep well covered, all night. In the nun-ning drain off 
the juice and proceed as for apple jell}', using from one half to three 
fourths of a pound of sugar to one of juice. 

Cranberry Jelly. — Scald the berries and express the juice as for other 



208 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

jellies. Measure the juice, and allow three fourths of a pound of sugar 
to one of juice. Boil twenty minutes, add the sugar hot, and finish as 
directed for other jellies. 

(Jrape Jelly. — Jelly from ripe grapes may be prepared in the same 
manner as that made from the juice of berries. Jelly from green grapes 
needs one half measure more of sugar. 

Orangre Jelly. — Express the juice of rather tart oranges, and use with 
it an equal quantity of the juice of sub-acid apples, prepared in the man- 
ner directed for apple jelly. For each pint of the mixed juice, use one 
half pound of sugar and proceed as for other jellies. 

Peacll Jelly. — Stone, pare, and slice the peaches, and steam them in a 
double boiler. Express the juice, and add for each pint of peach juice 
the juice of one lemon. Measure the juice and sugar, using three fourths 
of a pound of sugar for each pint of juice, and proceed as already di- 
rected. Jelly prepared from peaches will not be so firm as many fruit 
jellies, owing to the small amount of pectose contained in their com- 
position. 

A mixture of apples and peaches, in the proportion of one third of 
the former to two thirds of the latter, makes a firmer jelly than peaches 
alone. The apples should be pared and cored, so that their flavor will 
not interfere with that of the peaches. 

Quince Jelly. — Clean thoroughly good sound fruit, and slice thin. 
Put into a double boiler with one cup of water for each live pounds of 
fruit, and cook until softened. Express the juice, and proceed as with 
other "jellies, allowing three fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint 
of juice. Tart or sweet apples may be used with quinces, in equal pro- 
portions, and make a jelly of more pleasant flavor than quinces used 
alone. The seeds of quinces contain considerable gelatinous substance, 
and should be cooked with the quince for jelly making. 

Plum Jelly. — Use Damsons or Green Gages, Stone, and make in the 
same way as for berry and other small fruit jellies. 

Fruit in Jelly. — Prepare some apple jelly without sugar. When 
boiled sufficiently to form, add to it, as it begins to cool, some nice, 
stoned dates or seeded raisins. Orange jelly may be used instead of the 
apple jelly, if preferred. 



FRUITS. 209 

FRUIT JUICES. 

As sauces for desserts and for summer beverages for sick or 
well, the pure juices of fruits are most wholesome and deli- 
cious. So useful are they and so little trouble to prepare, that 
no housewife should allow the fruit season to pass by without 
putting up a full stock. Strawberries, raspberries, blackber- 
ries, currants, grapes, and cherries are especially desirable. In 
preparing them, select only the best fruit, ripe, but not over- 
ripe. Extract the juice by mashing the fruit and slowly heat- 
ing in the inner cup of a double boiler, till the fruit is well 
scalded ; too long heating will injure its color. Strain through 
a jelly bag and let it drain slowly for a long time, but do not 
squeeze, else some of the pulp will be forced through. Reheat 
slowly to boiling and can the same as fruit. It may be put 
up with or without sugar. If sugar is to be used, add it 
hot as for jelly, after the juice is strained and reheated to boil- 
ing. For strawberries and currants, raspberries and cherries, 
use one cup of sugar to a quart of juice. Black raspberries 
and grapes require less sugar, while blueberries and black- 
berries require none at all, or not more than a tablespoonful to 
the quart. A mixed juice, of one part currants and two parts 
red or black raspberries, has a very superior flavor. 

RECIPES. 

Grape Juice, or Unfermented Wine. — Take twenty-five pounds of some 
well ripened very juicy variety of grapes,, like the Concord. Pick them 
from the stems, wash thoroughly, and scald without the addition of water, 
in double boilers until the grapes burst open ; cool, turn into stout jelly 
bags, and drain off the juice without squeezing. Let the juice stand and 
settle ; turn off the top, leaving any sediment there may be. Add to the 
juice about four pounds of best granulated sugar, reheat to boiling, skim 
carefully, and can the same as fruit. Keep in a cool, dark place. The 
wine, if to be sealed in bottles, will require a corker, and the corks 
should first be boiled in hot water and the bottles well sterilized. 

Grape Juice No. 2. — Take grapes of the best quality, picked fresh 
from the vines. Wash well after stripping from the stems, rejecting any 
imperfect fruit. Put them in a porcelain or granite fruit kettle with one 

14 



2IO SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

pint of water to every three quarts of grapes, heat to boihng, and cook 
slowly for fifteen minutes or longer, skimming as needed. Turn off the 
juice and carefully filter it through a jelly bag, putting the seeds and skins 
into a separate bag to drain, as the juice from them will be less clear. 
Heat again to boiling, add one cupful of hot sugar to each quart of juice, 
and seal in sterilized cans or bottles. The juice from the skins and seeds 
should be canned separately. 

Auotlier Method. — Wash the grapes, and express the juice without 
scalding the fruit. Strain the juice three or four times through muslin 
or cheese cloth, allowing it to stand and settle for some time between each 
filteVing. To every three pints of juice add one of water and two 
cupfuls of sugar. Heat to boiling, and keep at that temperature for 
fifteen minutes, skim carefully, and bottle while at boiling heat. Set 
away in a cool, dark place. 

Friiit Syriij). — Prepare the juice expressed from strawberries, rasp- 
berries, currants, or grapes, as directed above for fruit juices. After it 
has come to a boil, add one pound of sugar to every quart of juice. Seal 
in pint cans. It may be diluted with water to form a pleasing beverage, 
and is especialh' useful in flavoring puddings and sauces. 

Currant Syrup. — Boil together a pint of pure currant juice and one 
half pound of best white sugar for ten minutes, and can or bottle while at 
boiling temperature. One or two spoonfuls of the syrup in a glass of 
water makes a most refreshing drink. Two parts currants and one of 
red raspberries may be used in place of all currants, if preferred. 

Orange Syrup. — Select ripe and thin-skinned fruit. To every pint of 
the juice add one pound of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and a little of the 
grated rind. Boil for fifteen minutes, removing all scum as it rises. If 
the syrup is not clear, strain through a piece of cheese cloth, and reheat. 
Can and seal while boiling hot. 

Lemon Syrup. — Grate the yellow portion of the rind of six lemons, 
and mix with three pounds of best granulated white sugar. Add one quart 
of water and boil until it thickens. Stram, add the juice of the six lem- 
ons, carefully leaving out the pulp and seeds ; boil ten minutes, and bottle. 
Diluted with two thirds cold water, it forms a delicious and quickly pre- 
pared lemonade. 

Lemon Syrup No. 2. — To every pint of lemon juice add one pound of 
sugar ; boil, skim, and seal in cans like fruit. 

Blackberry Syrup. — Crush fresh, well-ripened blackberries, and add 
to them one fourth as much boiling water as berries ; let them stand for 
twenty-four hours, stirring frequently. Strain, add a cup of sugar to 
each quart of juice, boil slowly for fifteen minutes, and can. 



FRUITS. 211 

Frnit Ices. — Express the juice from a pint of stoned red cherries, add 
the juice of two lemons, one cup of sugar, and a quart of cold water. Stir 
well for five minutes, and freeze in an ice cream freezer. Equal parts cur- 
rant and red raspberry juice may be used instead of cherry, if preferred. 

DRYING FRUIT. 

This method of preserving fruit, except in large establish- 
ments where it is dried by steam, is but little used, since can- 
ning is quicker and superior in every way. Success in drying 
fruits is dependent upon the quickness with which they can be 
dried, without subjecting them to so violent a heat as to burn 
them, or injure their flavor. 

Pulpy fruits, such as berries, cherries, plums, etc., should be 
spread on some convenient flat surface, without contact with 
each other, and dried in the sun under glass, or in a moderate 
oven. They should be turned daily. They will dry more 
quickly if first scalded in a hot oven. Cherries should be first 
stoned and cooked until well heated through and tender, then 
spread on plates, and the juice (boiled down to a syrup) poured 
over them. When dried, they will be moist. Pack in jars. 
Large fruit, such as apples, pears, and peaches, should be pared, 
divided, and the seeds or stones removed. If one has but a 
small quantity, the best plan is to dry by means of artificial 
heat ; setting it first in a hot oven until heated through, which 
process starts the juice and formiS a film or crust over the cut 
surfaces, thus holding the remaining quantity of juice inside 
until it becomes absorbed in the tissues. The drying process 
may be finished in a warming oven or some place about the 
range where the fruit will get only moderate heat. If a larger 
quantity of fruit is to be dried, after being heated in the oven, 
it may be placed in the hot sun out of doors, under fine wire 
screens, to keep off the flies ; or may be suspended from the 
ceiling in some way, or placed upon a frame made to stand di- 
rectly over the stove. As the drying proceeds, the fruit should 
be turned occasionally, and when dry enough, it should be 
thoroughly heated before it is packed away, to prevent it from 
getting wormy. 



212 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

NUTS. 

The nuts, or shell fruits, as they are sometimes termed, 
form a class of food differing greatly from the succulent fruits. 
They are more properly seeds, containing, in general, no 
starch, but are rich in fat and nitrogenous elements in the 
form of vegetable albumen and casein. In composition, the 
nuts rank high in nutritive value, but owing to the oily matter 
which they contain, are difficult of digestion, unless reduced 
to a very minutely divided state before or during mastication. 
The fat of nuts is similar in character to cream, and needs to 
be reduced to the consistency of cream to be easily digested. 
Those nuts, such as almonds, iilberts, and pecans, which do 
not contain an excess of fat, are the most wholesome. Nuts 
should be eaten, in moderation, at the regular mealtime, and 
not partaken of as a tidbit between meals. It is likewise well 
to eat them in connection with some hard food, to insure their 
thorough mastication. Almonds and cream crisps thus used 
make a pleasing combination. 

Most of the edible nuts have long been known and used as 
food. The Almond was highly esteemed by the ancient nations 
of the East, its native habitat, and is frequently referred to in 
sacred history. It is grown extensively in the warm, tem- 
perate regions of the Old World. There are two varieties, 
known as the bitter and the sweet almond. The kernel of 
the almond yields a fixed oil ; that produced from the bitter 
almond is much esteemed for flavoring purposes, but it is by 
no means a safe article to use, as it possesses marked poison- 
ous qualities. Fresh, sweet almonds are a nutritive, and, when 
properly eaten, wholesome food. The outer brown skin of the 
kernel is somewhat bitter, rough, and irritating to the stomach, 
but it can be easily removed by blanching. 

Blanched almonds, if baked for a short time, become quite 
brittle, and may be easily pulverized, and are then more easily 
digested. Bread made from almonds thus baked and pulver- 
ized, is considered an excellent food for persons suffering with 
diabetes. 



FRUITS. 213 

Brazil Nuts are the seeds of a gigantic tree which grows 
wild in the valleys of the Amazon, and throughout tropical 
America. The case containing these seeds is a hard, woody 
shell, globular in form, and about the size of a man's head. It 
is divided into four cells, in each of which are closely packed 
the seeds which constitute the so-called nuts, of commerce. 
These seeds are exceedingly rich in oil, one pound of them 
producing about nine ounces of oil. 

The Cocoamit is perhaps the most important of all the shell 
fruits, if we may judge by the variety of uses to which the nut 
and the tree which bears it can be put. It has been said that 
nature seldom produces a tree so variously useful to man as the 
cocoanut palm. In tropical countries, where it grows abun- 
dantly, its leaves are employed for thatching, its fibers for 
manufacturing many useful articles, while its ashes produce 
potash in abundance. The fruit is eaten raw, and in many 
ways is prepared for food ; it also yields an oil which forms an 
important article of commerce. The milk of the fruit is a cool- 
ing beverage, and the woody shell of the nut answers very 
well for a cup from which to drink it. The saccharine juice 
of the tree also affords an excellent drink ; and from the 
fresh young stems is prepared a farinaceous substance simi- 
lar to sago. 

The cocoanuts grow in clusters drooping from the tuft of 
long, fringed leaves which crown the branchless trunk of the 
stately palm. The cocoanut as found in commerce is the nut 
divested of its outer sheath, and is much smaller in size than 
when seen upon the tree. Picked fresh from the tree, the 
cocoanut consists first of a green outer covering ; next of a 
fibrous coat, which, if the nut is mature, is hairy-like in appear- 
ance ; and then of the woody shell, inside of which is the meat 
and milk. For household purposes the nuts are gathered while 
green, and before the inner shell has become solidified ; the 
flesh is then soft like custard, and can be easily eaten with a 
teaspoon, while a large quantity of delicious, milk-like fluid is 
obtainable from each nut. 

As found in our Northern markets, the cocoanut is difficult 



214 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of digestion, as is likewise the prepared or desiccated cocoanut. 
The cocoanut contains about seventy per cent of oil. 

The Chestmit is an exception to most nuts in its composi- 
tion. It contains starch, and about fifteen per cent of sugar. 
No oil can be extracted from the chestnut. In Italy, and 
other parts of Southern Europe, the chestnut forms an impor- 
tant article of food. It is sometimes dried and ground into 
flour, from which bread is prepared. The chestnut is a nutri- 
tious food, but owing to the starch it contains, is more digesti- 
ble when cooked. The same is true of the Acorn, which is 
similar in character to the chestnut. In the early ages, acorns 
were largely used for food, and are still used as a substitute for 
bread in some countries. 

The Hazelnut, with the Filbert and Cobnut, varieties of the 
same nut obtained by cultivation, are among the most desirable 
nuts for general consumption. 

The Walnut, probably a native of Persia, where in ancient 
times it was so highly valued as to be considered suited only 
for the table of the king, is now found very commonly with 
other species of the same family, the Biitternut and Hickory 
nut, in most temperate climates. 

The Pecan, a nut allied to the hickory nut, and grown ex- 
tensively in the Mississippi Valley and Texas, is one of the 
most easily digested nuts. 

The Peanut or Groundnut is the seed of an annual, culti- 
vated extensively in most tropical and sub-tropical countries. 
After the plant has blossomed, the stalk which produced the 
flower has the peculiarity of bending down and forcing itself 
under ground so that the seeds mature some depth beneath the 
surface. When ripened, the pods containing the seeds are 
dug up and dried. In tropical countries the fresh nuts are 
largely consumed, and are thought greatly to resemble almonds 
in flavor. In this country they are more commonly roasted. 
They are less easily digested than many other nuts because of 
the large amount of oily matter which they contain. 



FRUITS. 215 

RECIPES. 

To Blanch Almonds. — Shell fresh, sweet almonds, and pour boiling 
water over them ; let them stand for two or three minutes, skim out, and 
drop into cold water. Press between the thumb and finger, and the 
kernels will readily slip out of the brown covering. Dry between clean 
towels. Blanched almonds served with raisins make an excellent dessert. 

Boiled Chestnnts. — The large variety, known as the Italian chestnut, 
is best for this purpose. Remove the shells, drop into boiling water, and 
boil for ten minutes, take out, drop into cold water, and rub off the brown 
skin. Have some clean water boiling, turn the blanched nuts into it, and 
cook until they can be pierced with a fork. Drain thoroughly, put into a 
hot dish, dry in the oven for a few minutes, and serve. A cream sauce 
or tomato sauce may be served with them if liked. 

Mashed Chestnuts. — Prepare and boil the chestnuts as in the preced- 
ing recipe. Whei:i tender, mash through a colander with a potato 
masher. Season with cream and salt if desired. Serve hot. 

Baked Chestnnts. — Put Italian chestnuts in the shell on a perforated 
tin in a rather hot oven, and bake for ten mintes, or until tender. Re- 
move the shells, and serve hot. If preferred, they can be roasted on a 
clean shovel or in a corn popper over a bed of glowing coals. 

To Keep Nuts Fresh. — Chestnuts and other thin-shelled nuts may be 
kept from becoming too dry by mixing with an equal bulk of dry sand and 
storing in a box or barrel in some cool place. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Who lives to eat, will die by eating. — Sel. 

Fruit bears the closest relation to light, 'fhe sun pours a continuous flood of 
light into the fruits, and they furnish the best portion of food a human being requires 
for the sustenance of mind and body. — Alcott. 

The famous Dr. John Hunter, one of the most eminent physicians of his time, 
and himself a sufferer from gout, found in apples a remedy for this very obstinate and 
distressing malady. He insisted that all his patients should discard wine and roast 
beef, and make a free use of apples. 

Do not too much for your stomach, or it will abandon you. — Sel. 

The purest food is fruit, next the cereals, then the vegetables. All pure poets 
have abstained almost entirely from animal food. Especially should a minister take 
less meat when he has to write a sermon. The less meat the better sermon. — 
A. Branson Alcott. 

An orange or two before breakfast is an excellent means of preparing the stomach 
for the morning meal, as it cleanses away the mucus with which the mucous mem- 
brane lining the stomach becomes covered when it has been empty for some time. 

There is much false economy : those M^ho are too poor to have seasonable fruits 
and vegetables, will yet have pie and pickles all the year. They cannot afford 
oranges, yet can afford tea and coffee daily. — Health Calendar. 

What plant we in the apple tree ? 
Fruits that shall dwell in sunny June, 
And redden in the August moon, 
And drop, when gentle airs come by, 
That fan the blue September sky, 
While children come, with cries of gle«, 
And seek there when the fragrant grass 
Betrays their bed to those who pass 
At the foot of the apple tree. — Bryant. 



i'2i6j 




ft 



^'HE legumes, to which belong peas, beans, and lentils, are 
usually classed among vegetables ; but in composition 
they differ greatly from all other vegetable foods, being 
^•> characterized by a very large percentage of the nitroge- 
nous elements, by virtue of which they possess the highest nu- 
tritive value. Indeed, when mature, they contain a larger 
proportion of nitrogenous matter than any other food, either 
animal or vegetable. In their immature state, they more 
nearly resemble the vegetables. On account of the excess 
of nitrogenous elements in their composition, the mature 
legumes are well adapted to serve as a substitute for ani- 
mal foods, and for use in association with articles in which 
starch or other non-nitrogenous elements are predominant ; 
as, for example, beans or lentils with rice, which combinations 
constitute the staple food of large populations in India. 

The nitrogenous matter of legumes is termed legumin, or 
vegetable casein, and its resemblance to the animal casein of 
milk is very marked. The Chinese make use of this fact, and 

[217] 



2l8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

manufacture cheese from peas and beans. The legumes were 
largely used as food by the ancient nations of the East. They 
were the "pulse" upon which the Hebrew children grew so fair 
and strong. According to Josephus, legumes also formed the 
chief diet of the builders of the pyramids. They are particu- 
larly valuable as strength producers, and frequently form a 
considerable portion of the diet of persons in training as ath- 
letes, at the present day. Being foods possessed of such high 
nutritive value, the legumes are deserving of a more extended 
use than is generally accorded them in this country. In their 
mature state they are, with the exception of beans, seldom 
found upon the ordinary bill of fare, and beans are too generally 
served in a form quite difficult of digestion, being combined 
with large quantities of fat, or otherwise improperly prepared. 
Peas and lentils are in some respects superior to beans, being 
less liable to disagree with persons of weak digestion, and for 
this reason better suited to form a staple article of diet. 

All the legumes are covered with a tough skin, which is in 
itself indigestible, and which if not broken by the cooking pro- 
cess or by thorough mastication afterward, renders the entire 
seed liable to pass through the digestive tract undigested, since 
the digestive fluids cannot act upon the hard skin. Even 
when the skins are broken, if served with the pulp, much of the 
nutritive material of the legume is wasted, because it is im- 
possible for the digestive processes to free it from the cellulose 
material of which the skins are composed. If, then, it be de- 
sirable to obtain from the legumes the largest amount of nutri- 
ment and in the most digestible form, they must be prepared 
in some manner so as to reject the skins. Persons unable to 
use the legumes when cooked in the ordinary way, usually ex- 
perience no difficulty whatever in digesting them when di- 
vested of their skins. The hindrance which even the partially 
broken skins are to the complete digestion of the legume, is 
well illustrated by the personal experiments of Prof. Striimpell, 
a German scientist, who found that of beans boiled with the 
skins on he was able to digest only 6o per cent of the nitroge- 
nous material they contained. When, however, he reduced the 



LEGUMES. 219 

same quantity of beans to a fine powder previous to cooking, 
he was enabled to digest 91.8 per cent of it. 

The fact that the mature legumes are more digestible when 
prepared in some manner in which the skins are rejected, was 
doubtless understood in early times, for we find in a recipe of 
the fourteenth century, directions given " to dry legumes in an 
oven and remove the skins away before using them." 

The green legumes which are more like a succulent vege- 
table are easily digested with the skins on, if the hulls are 
broken before being swallowed. There are also some kinds of 
beans which, in their mature state, from having thinner skins, 
are more readil}^ digested, as the Haricot variety. 

Suggestions for Cooking. — The legumes are best cooked 
by stewing or boiling, and when mature, require prolonged 
cooking to render them tender and digestible. Slow cooking, 
when practicable, is preferable. Dry beans and peas are 
more readily softened by cooking if first soaked for a time in 
cold water. The soaking also has a tendency to loosen the 
skins, so that when boiled or stewed, a considerable portion of 
them slip off whole, and being lighter, rise to the top during 
the cooking, and can be removed with a spoon ; it likewise 
aids in removing the strong flavor characteristic of these foods, 
which is considered objectionable by some persons. The 
length of time required for soaking will depend upon the age 
of the seed, those from the last harvest needing only a few 
hours, while such as have been kept for two or more years 
require to be soaked twelve or twenty-four hours, h'or cook- 
ing, soft water is best. The mineral elements in hard water 
have a tendency to harden the casein, of which the legumes 
are largely composed, thus rendering it often very difficult to 
soften them. 

The dry, unsoaked legumes are generally best put to cook 
in cold water, and after the boiling point is reached, allowed 
to simmer gently until done. Boiling water may be used for 
legumes which have been previously soaked. The amount of 
water required will vary somewhat with the heat employed and 
the age and condition of the legume, as will also the time re- 



220 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

quired for cooking, but as a general rule two quarts of soft 
water for one pint of seeds will be quite sufficient. Salt 
should not be added until the seeds are nearly done, as it 
hinders the cooking process. 

PEAS. 

Description. — The common garden pea is probably a 
native of countries bordering on the Black Sea. A variety 
known as the gray pea {^pois chiche) has been used since a 
very remote period. The common people of Greece and 
Rome, in ancient times made it an ordinary article of diet. 
It is said that peas were considered such a delicacy by the 
Romans that those who coveted public favor distributed them 
gratuitously to the people in order to buy votes. 

Peas were introduced into England from Holland in the time 
of Elizabeth, and were then considered a great delicacy. His- 
tory tells us that when the queen was released from her con- 
finement in the tower. May 19, 1554, she went to Staining to 
perform her devotions in the church of Allhallows, after which 
she dined at a neighboring inn upon a meal of which the prin- 
cipal dish was boiled peas. A dinner of the same kind, com- 
memorative of the event, was for a long time given annually at 
the same tavern. 

Peas, when young, are tender and sweet, containing a con- 
siderable quantity of sugar. The nitrogenous matter entering 
into their composition, although less in quantity when unripe, 
is much more easily digested than when the seeds are mature. 

When quite ripe, like other leguminous seeds, they require 
long cooking. When very old, no amount of boiling will soften 
them. When green, peas are usually cooked and served as a 
vegetable ; in their dried state, they are put to almost every 
variety of use in the different countries where they are cul- 
tivated. 

In the southeast of Scotland, a favorite food is made of 
ground peas prepared in thick cakes and called peas-bainocks. 

In India and southern Europe, a variety of the pea is eaten 
parched or lightly roasted, or made into cakes, puddings, and 



LEGUMES. 221 

sweetmeats. In Germany, in combination with other ingre- 
dients, peas are compounded into sausages, which, during the 
Franco-Prussian war, served as rations for the soldiers. 

Dried peas for culinary use are obtainable in two forms ; 
the split peas, which have had the tough envelope of the seed 
removed, and the green or Scotch peas. 

The time required for cooking will vary from five to eight 
hours, depending upon the age of the seed and the length of 
time it has been soaked previous to cooking. 

RECIPES. 

Stewed Split Peas. — Carefully examine and wash the peas, rejecting 
any imperfect or worm-eaten ones. Put into cold water and let them 
come to a boil ; then place the stewpan back on the range and simmer 
gently until tender, but not mushy. Season with salt and a little cream 
if desired. 

Peas Puree. — Soak a quart of Scotch peas in cold water over night. In 
the morning, drain and put them to cook in boiling water. Cook slowly 
until perfectly tender, allowing them to simmer very gently toward the last 
until they become as dry as possible. Put through a colander to render 
them homogeneous and remove the skins. Many of the skins will be loos- 
ened and rise to the top during the cooking, and it is well to remove these 
with a spoon so as to make the process of rubbing through the colander 
less laborious. Season with salt if desired, and a cup of thin cream. 
Serve hot. 

Mashed Peas. — Soak and cook a quart of peas as for Peas Puree 
When well done, if the Scotch peas, rub through a colander to remove 
the skins. If the split peas are used, mash perfectly smooth with a 
potato masher. Season with a teaspoonful of salt and a half cup of 
sweet cream, if desired. Beat well together, turn into an earthen or 
granite-ware pudding dish, smooth the top, and bake in a moderate oven 
until dry and mealy throughout, and nicely browned on top. Serve hot 
like mashed potato, or with a tomato sauce prepared as follows : Heat 
a pint of strained, stewed tomato, season lightly with salt, and when 
boiling, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little 
cold water. 

Peas Cakes. — Cut cold mashed peas in slices half an inch in thickness, 
brush lightly with cream, place on perforated tins, and brown in the oven. 
If the peas crumble too much to slice, form them into small cakes with a 
spoon or knife, and brown as directed. Serve hot with or without a to- 



222 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

mato sauce. A celery sauce prepared as directed iii the chapter on Sauces, 
is also excellent. 

Dried G-reen Peas. — Gather peas while young and tender and care- 
fully dry them. When needed for use, rinse well, and put to cook in cold 
water. Let them simmer until tender. Season with cream the same as 
fresh green peas. 

BEANS. 

Description. — Some variety of the bean family has been 
cultivated and used for culinary purposes from time imme- 
morial. It is frequently mentioned in Scripture ; King David 
considered it worthy of a place in his dietary, and the prophet 
Ezekiel was instructed to mix it with the various grains and 
seeds of Avhich he made his bread. 

Among some ancient nations the bean was regarded as a 
type of death, and the priests of Jupiter were forbidden to eat 
it, touch it, or even pronounce its name. The believer in the 
doctrine of transmigration of souls carefully avoided this arti- 
cle of food, in the fear of submitting beloved friends to the 
ordeal of mastication. 

At the present day there is scarcely a country in hot or 
temperate climates where the bean is not cultivated and 
universally appreciated, both as a green vegetable and when 
mature and dried. 

The time required to digest boiled beans is two and one 
half hours, and upwards. 

In their immature state, beans are prepared and cooked 
like other green vegetables. Dry beans may be either boiled, 
stewed, or baked, but Avhatever the method employed, it must 
be very slow and prolonged. Beans to be baked should first 
be parboiled until tender. We mention this as a precautionary 
measure lest some amateur cook, misled by the term "bake," 
should repeat the experiment of the little English maid whom 
we employed as cook while living in London, a few years ago. 
In ordering our dinner, we had quite overlooked the fact that 
baked beans are almost wholly an American dish, and failed to 
give any suggestions as to the best manner of preparing it. 
Left to her own resources, the poor girl did the best she knew 



LEGUMES. 223 

how. but her face was full of perplexity as she placed the 
beans upon the table at dinner, with, " Well, ma'am, here are 
the beans, but I do n't see how you are going to eat them." 
Nor did we, for she had actually baked the dry beans, and they 
lay there in the dish as brown as roasted coffee berries, and 
as hard as bullets. 

Beans to be boiled or stewed do not need parboiling, 
although many cooks prefer to parboil them, to lessen the 
strong flavor which to some persons is quite objectionable. 

From one to eight hours are required to cook beans, vary- 
ing with the age and variety of the seed, whether it has 
been soaked, and the rapidit)' of the cooking process. 

REC/PES. 

Baked Beaus. — Pick over a quart of best white beans and soak in cold 
water over night. Put them to cook in fresh water, and simmer gently till 
they are tender, but not broken. Let them be quite juicy when taken from 
the kettle. Season ^ith salt and a teaspoonful of molasses. Put them in a 
deep crock in a slow oven. Let them bake two or three hours, or until 
they assume a reddish brown tinge, adding boiling water occasionally to 
prevent their becoming diy. Turn into a shallow dish, and brown nicely 
before sending to the table. 

Boiled Beaus. — Pick over some fresh, dry beans carefully, and wash 
thoroughly. Put into boiling water and cook gently and slowly until 
tender, but not broken. They should be moderately juicy when done. 
Serve with lemon juice, or season with salt and a little cream as preferred. 

The colored varieties, which are usually quite strong in flavor, are 
made less so by parboiling for fifteen or twenty minutes and then pour- 
ing the water off, adding more of boiling temperature, and cooking slowly 
until tender. 

Beans Boiled in a Bag-. — Soak a pint of white beans over night. 
When ready to cook, put them into a clean bag, tie up tightly, as the 
beans have already swelled, and if given space to move about with the 
boiling of the water will become broken and mushy. Boil three or four 
hours. Serve hot. 

Scalloped Beaus. — Soak a pint of white beans over night in cold 
water. When ready to cook, put into an earthen baking dish, cover well 
with new milk, and bake in a slow oven for eight or nine hours, refilling the 
dish with milk as it boils away, and taking care that the beans do not 
at any time get dry enough to brown over the top till they are tender. 



224 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

When nearly done, add salt to taste, and a half cup of cream. They may 
be allowed to bake till the milk is quite absorbed, and the beans dry, 
or may be served when rich with juice, according to taste. The beans 
may be parboiled in water for a half hour before beginning to bake, and 
the length of time thereby lessened. They should be well drained be- 
fore adding the milk, however. 

Stewed Beans. — Soak a quart of white beans in water over night. In 
the morning drain, turn hot water over them an inch deep or more, cover, 
and place on the range where they will only just simmer, adding boiling 
water if needed. When nearly tender, add salt to taste, a tablespoonful 
of sugar if desired, and half a cup of good sweet cream. Cook slowly 
an hour or more longer, but let them be full of juice when taken up, 
never cooked down dry and mealy. 

Mashed Beans. — Soak over night in cold water, a quart of nice white 
beans. When ready to cook, drain, put into boiling water, and boil till 
perfectly tender, and the water nearly evaporated. Take up, rub through 
a colander to remove the skins, season with salt and a half cup of 
cream, put in a shallow pudding dish, smooth the top with a spoon, and 
brown in the oven. 

Stewed Lima Beans. — Put the beans into boiling water, and cook till 
tender, but not till they fall to pieces. Fresh beans should cook an hour 
or more, and dry ones require from two to three hours unless previously 
soaked. They are much better to simmer slowly than to boil hard. 
They should be cooked nearly dry. Season with salt, and a cup of thin 
cream, to each pint of beans. Simmer for a few minutes after the cream 
is turned in. Should it happen that the beans become tender before the 
water is sufficiently evaporated, do not drain off the water, but add a 
little thicker cream, and thicken the whole with a little flour. A little 
flour stirred in with the cream, even when the water is nearly evaporated, 
may be preferred by some. 

Succotash. — Boil one part Lima beans and two parts sweet corn sepa- 
rately until both are nearly tender. Put them together, and simmer 
gently till done. Season with salt and sweet cream. Fresh corn and 
beans may be combined in the same proportions, but as the beans will 
be likely to require the most time for cooking, they should be put to boil 
first, and the corn added when the beans are about half done, unless it is 
exceptionally hard, in which case it must be added sooner. 

Pulp Succotash. — Score the kernels of some fresh green corn with 
a sharp knife blade, then with the back of a knife scrape out all the pulp, 
leaving the hulls on the cob. Boil the pulp in milk ten or fifteen minutes, 
or until well done. Cook some fresh shelled beans until tender, and rub 
them through a colander. Put together an equal quantity of the beans 



LEGUMES. 225 

thus prepared and the cooked corn pulp, season with salt and sweet 
cream, boil together for a few minutes, and serve. Kornlet and dried 
Lima beans may be made into succotash in a similar manner 

LENTILS. 

Description. — Several varieties of the lentil are cultivated 
for food, but all are nearly alike in composition and nutritive 
value. They have long been esteemed as an article of diet. 
That they were in ordinar)' use among the Hebrews is shown 
by the frequent mention of them in Scripture. It is thought' 
that the red pottage of Esau was made from the red variety of 
this legume. 

The ancient Egyptians believed that a diet of lentils would 
tend to make their children good tempered, cheerful, and wise, 
and for this reason constituted it their principal food. A gravy 
made of lentils is largely used with their rice by the natives of 
India, at the present day. 

The meal which lentils yield is of great richness, and gen- 
erally contains more casein than either beans or peas. The 
skin, however, is tough and indigestible, and being much 
smaller than peas, when served without rejecting the skins, 
they appear to be almost wholly of tough, fibrous material ; 
hence they are of little value except for soups, purees, toasts, 
and such other dishes as require the rejection of the skin. Len- 
tils have a stronger flavor than any of the other legumes, and 
their taste is not so generally liked until one has become accus- 
tomed to it. 

Lentils are prepared and cooked in the same manner 
as dried peas, though they require somewhat less time for 
cooking. 

The large dark variety is better soaked for a time pre- 
vious to cooking, or parboiled for a half hour and then put 
into new water, to make them less strong in flavor and less 
dark in color. 
IS 



226 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



REC/PES. 



Lentil Pur^e. — Cook the lentils and rub through a colander as for 
peas puree. Season, and serve in the same manner. 

Lentils Mashed with Beans. — Lentils may be cooked and prepared in 
the same manner as directed for mashed peas, but they are less strong in 
flavor if about one third to one half cooked white beans are used with 
them. 

Lentil Grayy with Rice. — Rub a cupful of cooked lentils through a col- 
ander to remove the skins, add one cup of rich milk, part cream if it can 
be afforded, and salt if desired. Heat to boiling, and thicken with a tea- 
spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Serve hot on nicely 
steamed or boiled rice, or with well cooked macaroni. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The men who kept alive the flame of learning and piety in the Middle Ages 
were mainly vegetarians. — Sir William Axon. 

According to Xenophon, Cyrus, king of Persia, was brought up on a diet of 
water, bread, and cresses, till his fifteenth year, when honey and raisins were 
added ; and the family names of the Fabii and Lentuli were derived from their 
customary diet. 

Thomson, in his poem, "The Seasons," written one hundred and sixty years 
ago, pays the following tribute to a diet composed of seeds and vegetable products : — 
" With such a liberal hand has Nature flung 

These seeds abroad, blown them about in winds — . . . 

But who their virtues can declare ? who pierce. 

With vision pure, into those secret stores 

Of health and life and joy — the food of man. 

While yet he lived in innocence and told 

A length of golden years, unfleshed in blood ? 

A stranger to the savage arts of life — 

Death, rapine, carnage, surfeit, and disease — 

The lord, and not the tyrant of the world." 

Most assuredly I do believe that body and mind are much influenced by the 
kind of food habitually depended upon. I can never stray among the village people 
of our windy capes without now and then coming upon a human being who looks as 
if he had been split, salted, and dried, like the salt. fish which has built up his arid 
organism. If the body is modified by the food which nourishes it, the mind and 
character very certainly will be modified by it also. We know enough of their close 
connection with each other to be sure of that without any statistical observation to 
prove it. — Oliver Wendell Holmes. 



LEGUMES. 227 

The thoughts and feelings which the food we partake of provokes, are not re- 
marked in common life, but they, nevertheless, have their significance. A man who 
daily sees cows and calves slaughtered, or who kills them himself, hogs " stuck," 
hens "plucked," etc., cannot possibly retain any true feeling for the sufferings of 
his own species. . . . Doubtless, the majority of flesh-eaters do not reflect upon the 
manner in which this food comes to them, but this thoughtlessness, far from being a 
virtue, is the parent of many vices. . . . How very different are the thoughts and 
sentiments produced by the non-flesh diet ! — Gustav Von Stnive. 

'rH.\T the popular idea that beef is necessary for strength is not a correct one, is 
well illustrated by Xenophon's description of the outfit of a Spartan soldier, whose 
dietary consisted of the very plainest and simplest vegetable fare. The complete 
accoutrements of the Spartan soldier, in what we would call heavy marching order, 
weighed seventy-five pounds, exclusive of the camp, mining, and bridge-building 
tools, and the rations of bread and dried fruit which were issued in weekly install- 
ments, and increased the burden of the infantry soldier to ninety, ninety-five, or even 
to a full hundred pounds. This load was often carried at the rate of four miles an 
hour for twelve hours per diem, day after day, and only when in the burning deserts 
of southern Syria did the commander of the Grecian auxiliaries think prudent to 
shorten the usual length of the day's march. 

Diet of Trainers. — The following are a few of the restrictions and rules laid 
down by experienced trainers : — 

Little salt. No coarse vegetables. No pork or veal. Two meals a day ; break- 
fast at eight and dinner at two. No fat meat is allowed, no butter or cheese, pies 
or pastry. 





VEGETABLES used for culinary purposes comprise 
roots and tubers, as potatoes, turnips, etc. ; shoots 
.]i and stems, as asparagus and sea-kale ; leaves and in- 
florescence, as spinach and cabbage ; immature seeds, 
grains, and seed receptacles, as green peas, corn, and string- 
beans ; and a few of the fruity products, as the tomato and 
the squash. Of these the tubers rank the highest in nutri- 
tive value. 

Vegetables are by no means the most nutritious diet, as 
water enters largely into their composition ; but food to sup- 
ply perfectly the needs of the vital economy, must contain 
water and indigestible as well as nutritive elements. Thus 
they are dietetically of great value, since they furnish a large 
quantity of organic fluids. Vegetables are rich in mineral ele- 
ments, and are also of service in giving bulk to food. An 
exclusive diet of vegetables, however, would give too great 
bulk, and at the same time fail to supply the proper amount 
of food elements. To furnish the requisite amount of nitroge- 
nous material for one day, if potatoes alone were depended 
upon as food, a person would need to consume about nine 
pounds ; of turnips, sixteen pounds ; of parsnips, eighteen 
[228] 



VEGETABLES. 229 

pounds ; of cabbage, twenty-two pounds. Hence it is wise to 
use them in combination with other articles of diet — grains, 
whole-wheat bread, etc. — that supplement the qualities lack- 
ing in the vegetables. 

To Select Vegetables. — All roots and tubers should be 
plump, free from decay, bruises, and disease, and with fresh, 
unshriveled skins. They are good from the time of maturing 
until they begin to germinate. Sprouted vegetables are unfit 
for food. I'otato sprouts contain a poison allied to belladonna. 
All vegetables beginning to decay are unfit for food. 

Green vegetables to be wholesome should be freshly gath- 
ered, crisp, and juicy ; those which have lain long in the 
market are very questionable food. In Paris, a law forbids a 
market-man to offer for sale any green vegetable kept more 
than one day. The use of stale vegetables is known to have 
been the cause of serious illness. 

Keeping Vegetables. — If necessary to keep green vege- 
tables for any length of time, do not put them in water, as that 
will dissolve and destroy some of their juices ; but lay them in 
a cool, dark place, — on a stone floor is best, — and do not 
remove their outer leaves until needed. They should be 
cooked the day they are gathered, if possible. The best way 
to freshen those with stems when withered is to cut off a bit 
of the stem or stem-end, and set only the cut part in water. 
The vegetables will then absorb enough water to replace what 
has been lost by evaporation. 

Peas and beans should not be shelled until wanted. If, 
however, they are not used as soon as shelled, cover them with 
pods and put in a cool place. 

Winter vegetables can be best kept wholesome by storing 
in a cool, dry place of even temperature, and where neither 
warmth, moisture, nor light is present to induce decay or ger- 
mination. They should be well sorted, the bruised or decayed, 
rejected, and the rest put into clean bins or boxes ; and should 
be dry and clean when stored. Vegetables soon absorb bad 
flavors if left near anything odorous or decomposing, and are 



230 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

thus rendered unwholesome. They should be looked over 
often, and decayed ones removed. Vegetables, to be kept fit 
for food, should on no account be stored in a cellar with barrels 
of fermenting" pickle brine, soft soap, heaps o\' decomposing 
rubbish, and other similar things frequently found in the dark, 
damp vegetable cellars of modern houses. 

Preparation and Cookinj>-. — Most vegetables need thor- 
ough washing before cooking. Roots and tubers should be 
well cleaned before paring. A vegetable brush or a small 
whisk broom is especially serviceable for this purpose. If 
necessary to wash shelled beans and peas, it can best be 
accomplished by putting them in a colander and dipping in 
and out of large pans of water until clean. Spinach, lettuce, 
and other leaves may be cleaned in the same way. 

Vegetables admit of much variety- in preparation for the 
table, and are commonly held to require the least culinary 
skill of any article of diet. This is a mistake. Though the 
usual processes employed to make vegetables palatable are 
simple, )et man)- cooks, from carelessness or lack of knowl- 
edge of their nature and composition, convert some of the 
most nutritious vegetables into dishes almost worthless as 
food or almost impossible of digestion. It requires no little 
care and skill to cook vegetables so that they will neither 
be under-done nor over-done, and so that the}' will retain 
their natural flavors. 

A general rule, applicable to all \egetablcs to be boiled or 
stewed, is to cook them in as little water as ma)' be without 
burning. The salts and nutrient juices are largelv' lost in the 
water ; and if this needs to be drained oft', much of the nutriment 
is apt to be wasted. IManv cooks throw away the true rich- 
ness, while they serve the "husks'" only. Condiments and 
seasonings ma)' cover insipid taste, but the)- cannot restore 
lost elements. Vegetables contain so much water in their 
composition that it is not necessary to add large quantities for 
cooking, as in the case of the grains and legumes, which have 
lost nearly all their moisture in the ripening process. Some 



VEGETABLES. i^t 

vegetables are much better cooked without the addition of 
water. 

Vegetables to be cooked by boiling should be put into 
boiling water ; and since water loses its goodness by boiling, 
vegetables should be put in as soon as the boiling begins. The 
process of cooking should be continuous, and in general gentle 
heat is best. Remember that when water is boiling, the tem- 
perature is not increased by violent bubbling. Keep the 
cooking utensil closely covered. If water is added, let it also 
be boiling hot. 

Vegetables not of uniform size should be so assorted that 
those of the same size may be cooked together, or large ones 
may be divided. Green vegetables retain their color best if 
cooked rapidly. Soda is sometimes added to the water in 
which the vegetables are cooked, for the purpose of preserving 
their colors, but this practice is very harmful. 

Vegetables should be cooked until they are perfectly tender 
but not overdone. Many cooks spoil their vegetables by 
cooking them too long, while quite as many more serve them 
in an underdone state to preserve their form. Either plan 
makes them less palatable, and likely to be indigestible. 

Steaming or baking is preferable for most vegetables, be- 
cause their finer flavors are more easily retained, and their 
food value suffers less diminution. Particularly is this true 
of tubers. 

The time required for cooking depends much upon the age 
and freshness of the vegetables, as well as the method of cook- 
ing employed. Wilted vegetables require a longer time for 
cooking than fresh ones. 

Time Required for Cooking. — The following is the ap- 
proximate length of time required for cooking some of the 
more com.monly used vegetables : — 



Potatoes, baked, 30 to 45 minutes. 

Potatoes, steamed, 20 to 40 minutes. 

Potatoes, boiled (in jackets), 20 to 25 
minutes after the water is fairly boil- 
ing. 



Potatoes, pared, about 20 minutes, if of 
medium size ; if very large, they will 
require from 25 to 45 minutes. 

Green corn, young, from 15 to 20 minutes. 

Peas, 25 to 30 minutes. 



232 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



Asparagus, 15 to 20 minutes, young ; 30 

to 50 if old. 
Tomatoes, I to 2 hours. 
String beans and shelled beans, 45 to 60 

minutes or longer. 
Beets, boiled, I hour if young ; old, 3 to 5 

hours. 
Beets, baked, 3 to 6 hours. 
Carrots, I to 2 hours. 
Parsnips, 45 minutes, young ; old, i to 2 

hours. 



Turnips, young, 45 minutes; old, lyi to 

2 hours. 
Winter squash, i hour. 
Cabbage, young, i hour ; old, 2 to 3 

hours. 
Vegetable oysters, i to 2 hours. 
Celery, 20 to 30 minutes. 
Spinach, 20 to 60 minutes or more. 
Cauliflower, 20 to 40 minutes. 
Summer squash, 20 to 60 minutes. 



If vegetables after being cooked cannot be served at once, 
dish them up as soon as done, and place the dishes in a bain 
Diarie or in pans of hot water, where they will keep of even 
temperature, but not boil. Vegetables are never so good after 




Bain Marie. 



standing, but they spoil less kept in this way than any other. 
The water in the pans should be of equal depth with the food 
in the dishes. Stewed vegetables and others prepared with a 
sauce, may, when cold, be reheated in a similar manner. 

If salt is to be used to season, one third of a teaspoonful for 
each pint of cooked vegetables is an ample quantity. 



VEGETABLES. 233 

THE IRISH POTATO. 

Description. — The potato, a plant of the order Solanaccce, 
is supposed to be indigenous to South America. Probably it 
was introduced into Europe by the Spaniards early in the six- 
teenth century, but cultivated only as a curiosity. To Sir 
Walter Raleigh, however, is usually given the credit of its 
introduction as a food, he having imported it from Virginia to 
Ireland in 1 586, where its valuable nutritive qualities were first 
appreciated. The potato has so long constituted the staple 
article of diet in Ireland, that it has come to be commonly, 
though incorrectly, known as the Irish potato. 

The edible portion of the plant is the tuber, a thick, fleshy 
mass or enlarged portion of an underground stem, having upon 
its surface a number of little buds, or "eyes," each capable of 
independent growth. The tuber is made up of little cells filled 
with starch granules, surrounded and permeated with a watery 
fluid containing a small percentage of the albuminous or ni- 
trogenous elements. In cooking, heat coagulates the albumen 
within and between the cells, while the starch granules absorb 
the watery portion, swell, and distend the cells. The cohesion 
between these is also destroyed, and they easily separate. 
When these changes are complete, the potato becomes a loose, 
farinaceous mass, or " mealy." When, however, the liquid por- 
tion is not wholly absorbed, and the cells are but imperfectly 
separated, the potato appears waxen, watery, or soggy. In a 
mealy state the potato is easily digested ; but when waxy or 
water-soaked, it is exceedingly trying to the digestive powers. 

It is obvious, then, that the great dcsideratiun in cooking the 
potato, is to promote the expansion and separation of its cells ; 
in other words, to render it mealy. Young potatoes are al- 
ways waxy, and consequently less wholesome than ripe ones. 
Potatoes which have been frozen and allowed to thaw quickly 
are much sweeter and more watery, because in thawing the 
starch changes into sugar. Frozen potatoes should be thawed 
in cold water and cooked at once, or kept frozen until ready 
for use. 



234 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Always pare potatoes very 
thin. Much of the most nutritious part of the tuber lies next 
its outer covering ; so care should be taken to waste as little 
as possible. Potatoes cooked with the skins on are undoubt- 
edly better than those pared. The chief mineral element con- 
tained in the potato is potash, an important constituent of 
the blood. Potash salts are freely soluble in water, and when 
the skin is removed, there is nothing to prevent these salts 
from escaping into the water in which the potato is boiled. 
If the potato is cooked in its "jacket," the skin, which does 
not in general burst open until the potato is nearly done, 
serves to keep this valuable element largely inside the potato 
while cooking. For the same reason it is better not to pare 
potatoes and put them in water to soak over night, as many 
cooks are in the habit of doing, to have them in readiness 
for cooking for breakfast. 

Potatoes to be pared should be first washed and dried. It is 
a good plan to wash quite a quantity at one time, to be used as 
needed. After paring, drop at once into cold water and rinse 
them thoroughly. It is a careless habit to allow pared potatoes 
to fall among the skins, as in this way they become stained, and 
appear black and discolored after cooking. Scrubbing with a 
vegetable brush is by far the best means for cleaning potatoes 
to be cooked with the skins on. 

When boiled in their skins, the waste, according to Leth- 
eby, is about three per cent, while without them it is not less 
than fourteen per cent, or more than two ounces in every 
pound. Potatoes boiled without skins should be cooked very 
gently. 

Steaming, roasting, and baking are much better methods 
for cooking potatoes than boiling, for reasons already given. 
Very old potatoes are best stewed or mashed. When with- 
ered or wilted, they are freshened by standing in cold water 
for an hour or so before cooking. If diseased or badly 
sprouted, potatoes are wholly unfit for food. 



VEGETABLES. 235 

RECIPES. 

Boiled Potatoes (in Jackets). — Choose potatoes of uniform size, free 
from specks. Wash a id scrub them well with a coarse cloth or brush ; dig 
out all eyes and rinse in cold water ; cook in just enough water to prevent 
burning, till easily pierced with a fork, not till they have burst the skin 
and fallen in pieces. Drain thoroughly, take out the potatoes, and place 
them in the oven for five minutes, or place the kettle back on the range ; 
remove the skins, and cover with a cloth to absorb all moisture, and let 
them steam three or four minutes. By either method they will be dry 
and mealy. In removing the skins, draw them off without cutting the 
potatoes. 

Boiled Potatoes (without Skins). — Pare very thin, and wash clean. 
If not of an equal size, cut the larger potatoes in two. Cook in only suf- 
ficient water to prevent burning until a fork will easily pierce their 
center ; drain thoroughly, place the kettle back on the range, cover with 
a cloth to absorb the moisture, and let them dry four or five minutes. 
Shake the kettle several times while they are drying, to make them floury. 

Steamed Potatoes. — Potatoes may be steamed either with or without the 
skin. Only mature potatoes can be steamed. Prepare as for boiling ; 
place in a steamer, over boiling water, and steam until tender. If water 
is needed to replenish, let it always be boiling hot, and not allow the 
potatoes to stop steaming, or they will be watery. When done, uncover, 
remove the potatoes to the oven, and let them dry a few minuter. If 
peeled before steaming, shake the steamer occasionally, to make them 
floury. 

Roasted Potatoes. — Potatoes are much more rich and mealy roasted 
than cooked in any other way. Wash them very carefully, dry with a 
cloth, and wrap in tissue paper ; bury in ashes not too hot, then cover 
with coals and roast until tender. The coals will need renewing occasion- 
ally, unless the roasting is done very close to the main fire. 

Baked Potatoes. — Choose large, smooth potatoes as near the same size 
as possible ; wash and scrub with a brush until perfectly clean ; dry with 
a cloth, and bake in a moderately hot oven until a fork will easily pierce 
them, or until they yield to pressure between the fingers. They are 
better turned about occasionally. In a slow oven the skins become 
hardened and thickened, and much of the most nutritious portion is 
wasted. When done, press each one till it bursts slightly, as that will 
allow the steam to escape, and prevent the potatoes from becoming 
^oggy- They should be served at once, in a folded napkin placed in a 
hot dish. Cold baked potatoes may be warmed over by rebaking, if of 
good quality and not overdone the first time. 



236 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Stuffed Potato. — Prepare and bake large potatoes of equal size, as 
directed in the preceding recipe. When done, cut them evenly three 
fourths of an inch from the end, and scrape out the inside, taking care 
not to break the skins. Season the potato with salt and a little thick 
sweet cream, being careful not to have it too moist, and beat thoroughly 
with a fork until light ; refill the skins with the seasoned potato, fit the 
broken portions together, and reheat in the oven. When hot throughout, 
wrap the potatoes in squares of white tissue paper fringed at both ends. 
Twist the ends of the paper lightly together above the fringe, and stand 
the potatoes in a vegetable dish with the cut end uppermost. When 
served, the potatoes are held in the hand, one end of the paper untwisted, 
the top of the potato removed, and the contents eaten with a fork or 
spoon. 

Stuffed Potatoes No. 2. — Prepare large, smooth potatoes, bake until ten- 
der, and cut them in halves ; scrape out the inside carefully, so as not to 
break the skins ; mash smoothly, mix thoroughly with one third freshly 
prepared cottage cheese ; season with nice sweet cream, and salt if de- 
sired. Fill the shells with the mixture, place cut side uppermost, in a 
pudding dish, and brown in the oven. 

Mashed Potatoes. — Peel and slice potatoes enough to make two 
quarts ; put into boiling water and cook until perfectly tender, but not 
much broken; drain, add salt to taste; turn into a hot earthen dish, 
and set in the oven for a few moments to dry. Break up the potatoes 
with a silver fork ; add nearly a cup of cream, and beat hard at least five 
minutes till light and creamy ; serve at once, or they will become heavy. 
If preferred, the potatoes may be rubbed through a hot sieve into a hot 
plate, or mashed with a potato beetle, but they are less light and flaky 
when mashed with a beetle. If cream for seasoning is not obtainable, a 
well-beaten egg makes a very good substitute. Use in the proportion of 
one egg to about five potatoes. For mashed potatoes, if all utensils and 
ingredients are first heated, the result will be much better. 

New Potatoes. — When potatoes are young and freshly gathered, the 
skins are easiest removed by taking each one in a coarse cloth and rub- 
bing it ; a little coarse salt used in the cloth will be found serviceable for 
this purpose. If almost ripe, scrape with a blunt knife, wash very clean, 
and rinse in cold water. Boiling is the best method of cooking; new 
potatoes are not good steamed. Use only sufficient water to cover, and 
boil till tender. Drain thoroughly, cover closely with a clean cloth, 
and dry before serving. 

Cracked Potatoes. — Prepare and boil new potatoes as in the preceding 
recipe, and when ready to serve- crack each by pressing lightly upon it 
with the back of a spoon, lay them in a hot dish, salt to taste, and pour 
over them a cup of hot thin cream or rich milk. 



VEGETABLES 237 

Creamed Potatoes. — Take rather small, new potatoes and wash well; 
rub off all the skins ; cut in halves, or if quite large, quarter them. 
Put a pint of divided potatoes into a broad-bottomed, shallow saucepan ; 
pour over them a cup of thin sweet cream, add salt if desired ; heat just 
to the boiling point, then allow them to simmer gently till perfectly tender, 
tossing them occasionally in the stewpan to prevent their burning on the 
bottom. Serve hot. 

Scalloped Potatoes. — Pare the potatoes and slice thin ; put them in 
layers in an earthen pudding dish, dredge each layer lightly with Hour, 
add salt, and pour over all enough good, rich milk to cover well. Cover, 
and bake rather slowly till tender, removing the cover just long enough 
before the potatoes are done, to brown nicely. If preferred, a little less 
milk may be used, and a cup of thin cream added when the potatoes 
are nearly done. 

Stewed Potato. — Pare the potatoes and slice rather thin. Put into 
boiling water, and cook until nearly tender, but not broken. Have some 
rich milk boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, add to it a little salt, 
then stir in for each pint of milk a heaping teaspoonful of corn starch or 
rice flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Stir until it thickens. 
Drain the potatoes, turn them into the hot sauce, put the dish in the outer 
boiler, and cook for a half hour or longer. Cold boiled potatoes may be 
sliced and used in the same way. Cold baked potatoes sliced and stewed 
thus for an hour or more, make a particularly appetizing dish. 

Potatoes Stewed with Celery. — Pare and slice the potatoes, and put 
them into a stewpan with two or three tablespoonfuls of minced celery. 
Use only the white part of the celery and mince it finely. Cover the 
whole with milk sufficient to cook and prevent burning, and stew until 
tender. Season with cream and salt. 

Potato Snowballs. — Cut large potatoes into quarters ; if small, leave 
them undivided ; boil in just enough water to cover. When tender, drain 
and dry in the usual way. Take up two or three pieces at a time in a 
strong, clean cloth, and press them compactly together in the shape of 
balls. Serve in a folded napkin on a hot dish. 

Potato Calces. — Make nicely seasoned, cold mashed potato into small 
round cakes about one half an inch thick. Put them on a baking tin, 
brush them over with sweet cream, and bake in a hot oven till golden 
brown. 

Potato Cakes with Egg-. — Bake nice potatoes till perfectly tender ; 
peel, mash thoroughly, and to each pint allow the yolks of two eggs 
which have been boiled until mealy, then rubbed perfectly smooth through 
a fine wire sieve, and one half cup of rich milk. Add salt to taste, mix 
all well together, form the potato into small cakes, place them on oiled 
tins, and brown ten or fifteen minutes in the oven. 



238 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Potato Puff. — Mix a pint of mashed potato (cold is just as good if 
free from lumps) with a half cup of cream and the well-beaten yolk of an 
egg ; salt to taste and beat till smooth ; lastly, stir in the white of the egg 
beaten to a stiff froth. Pile up in a rocky form on a bright tin dish, and 
bake in a quick oven until heated throughout and lightly browned. Serve 
at once. 

Browned Potatoes. — Slice cold potatoes evenly, place them on an 
oiled tin, and brown in a very quick oven ; or slice lengthwise and lay on 
a wire broiler or bread-toaster, and brown over hot coals. Sprinkle with 
a little salt if desired, and serve hot with sweet cream as dressing. 

Ornamental Potatoes. — No vegetable can be made palatable in so 
many ways as the potato, and few can be arranged in such pretty shapes. 
Mashed potatoes made moist with cream, can easily be made into cones, 
pyramids, or mounds. Cold mashed potatoes may be cut into many fancy 
shapes with a cookie-cutter, wet with a little cold water, and browned in 
the oven. 

Mounds of potatoes are very pretty smoothed and strewn with well- 
cooked vermicelli broken into small bits, and then lightly browned in the 
oven. 

Scoring the top of a dish of mashed potato deeply in triangles, stars, 
and crosses, with the back of a carving knife, and then browning lightly, 
gives a very pretty effect. 

Broiled Potato. — Mashed potatoes, if packed firmly while warm into 
a sheet-iron bread tin which has been dipped in cold water, may be cut 
into slices when cold, brushed with cream, and browned on a broiler over 
hot coals. 

Warmed-over Potatoes. — Cut cold boiled potatoes into very thin slices ; 
heat a little cream to boiling in a saucepan ; add the potato, season lightly 
with salt if desired, and cook until the cream is absorbed, stirring occa- 
sionally so as to prevent scorching or breaking the slices. 

Vegetable Hash. — With one quart finely sliced potato, chop one car- 
rot, one red beet, one white turnip, all boiled, also one or two stalks of 
celery. Put all together in a stewpan, cover closely, and set in the oven ; 
when hot, pour over them a cup of boiling cream, stir well together, and 
serve hot. 

THE SWEET POTATO. 

Description. — The sweet potato is a native of the Malayan 
Archipelago, where it formerly grew wild ; thence it was taken 
to Spain, and from Spain to England and other parts of the 
globe. It was largely used in Europe as a delicacy on the 



VEGETABLES. 



239 



tables of the rich before the introduction of the common 
potato, which has now taken its place and likewise its name. 
The sweet potato is the article referred to as potato by Shake- 
speare and other English writers, previous to the middle of 
the seventeenth century. 

Preparation and Cooking. — What has been said in ref- 
erence to the common potato, is generally applicable to the 
sweet potato ; it may be prepared and cooked in nearly all 
the ways of the Irish potato. 

In selecting- sweet potatoes, choose firm, plump roots, free 
from any sprouts ; if sprouted they will have a poor flavor, and 
are likely to be watery. 

The sweet potato is best cooked with the skin on ; but all 
discolored portions and the dry portion at each end, together 
with all branchlets, should be carefully removed, and the potato 
well washed, and if to be baked or roasted, well dried with a 
cloth before placing in the oven. 

The average time required for boiling is about fifty minutes ; 
baking, one hour ; steaming, about one hour ; roasting, one and 
one half hours. 

REC/PES. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. — Select those of uniform size, wash clean, cut- 
ting out any imperfect spots, wipe dry, put into a moderately hot oven, and 
bake about one hour, or until the largest will yield to gentle pressure be- 
tween the fingers. Serve at once without peeling. Small potatoes are 
best steamed, since if baked, the skins will take up nearly the whole potato. 

Baked Sweet Potato No. 2. — Select potatoes of medium size, wash and 
trim but do not pare, and put on the upper grate of the oven. For a peck 
of potatoes, put in the lower part of the oven in a large shallow pan a half 
pint of hot water. The water may be turned directly upon the oven bot- 
tom if preferred. Bake slowly, turning once when half done. Serve in 
their skins, or peel, slice, and return to the oven until nicely browned. 

Boiled Sweet Potatoes. — Choose potatoes of equal size ; do not pare, 
but after cleaning them well and removing any imperfect spots, put into 
cold water and boil until they can be easily pierced with a fork ; drain 
thoroughly, and lay them on the top grate in the oven to dry for five or 
ten minutes. Peel as soon as dry, and send at once to the table, in a hot 
dish covered with a folded napkin. Sweet potatoes are much better baked 
than boiled. 



240 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Steamed Sweet Potatoes. — Wash the potatoes well, cut out any dis- 
colored portions, and steam over a kettle of boiling water until they can 
be easily pierced with a fork, not allowing the water in the pot to cease 
boiling for a moment. Steam only sufficient to cook them, else they will 
be watery. 

Browned Sweet Potatoes. — Slice cold, cooked sweet potatoes evenly, 
place on slightly oiled tins in a hot oven, and brown. 

Mashed Sweet Potatoes. — Either bake or steam nice sweet potatoes, 
and when tender, peel, mash them well, and season with cream and salt to 
taste. They may be served at once, or made into patties and browned in 
the oven. 

Potato Hash. — Take equal parts of cold Irish and sweet potatoes ; chop 
fine and mix thoroughly ; season with salt if desired, and add sufficient 
thin cream to moisten well. Turn into a stewpan, and heat gently until 
boiling, tossing continually, that all parts become heated alike, and serve 
at once. 

Roasted Sweet Potatoes. — Wash clean and wipe dry, potatoes of uni- 
form size, wrap with tissue paper, cover with hot ashes, and then with 
coals from a hardwood fire ; unless near the main fire, the coals will need 
renewing a few times. This will require a longer time than by any other 
method, but they are much nicer. The slow, continuous heat promotes 
their mealiness. When tender, brush the ashes off with a broom, and 
wipe with a dry cloth. Send to the table in their jackets. 

To Dry Sweet Potatoes. — Carefully clean and drop them into boiling 
water. Let them remain until the skins can be easily slipped off ; then 
cut into slices and spread on racks to dry. To prepare for cooking, soak 
over night, and boil the next day. 



TURNIPS. 

Description. — The turnip belongs to the order Cruciferce, 
signifying " cross flowers," so called because their four petals 
are arranged in the form of a cross. It is a native of Europe 
and the temperate portions of Asia, growing wild in borders of 
fields and waste places. The ancient Roman gastronomists 
considered the turnip, when prepared in the following manner, 
a dish fit for epicures : " After boiling, extract the water from 
them, and season with cummin, rue, or benzoin, pounded in a 
mortar ; afterward add honey, vinegar, gravy, and boiled 
grapes. Allow the whole to simmer, and serve." 



VEGETABLES. 24 1 

Under cultivation, the turnip forms an agreeable culinary 
esculent ; but on account of the large proportion of water 
entering into its composition, its nutritive value is exceedingly 
low. The Swedish, or Rutabaga, variety is rather more nutri- 
tive than the white, but its stronger flavor renders it less 
palatable. Unlike the potato, the turnip contains no starch, 
but instead, a gelatinous substance called pectose, which dur- 
ing the boiling process is changed into a vegetable jelly called 
pectine. The white lining just inside the skin is usually bitter ; 
hence the tuber should be peeled sufficiently deep to remove it. 
When well cooked, turnips are quite easily digested. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Turnips are good for culi- 
nary purposes only from the time of their ripening till they 
begin to sprout. The process of germination changes their 
proximate elements, and renders them less fit for food. Select 
turnips which are plump and free from disease. A turnip that 
is wilted, or that appears spongy, pithy, or cork-like when cut, 
is not fit for food. 

Prepare turnips for cooking by thoroughly washing and 
scraping, if young and tender, or by paring if more mature. 
If small, they may be cooked whole ; if large, they should be 
cut across the grain into slices a half inch in thickness. If 
cooked whole, care must be taken to select those of uniform 
size ; and if sliced, the slices must be of equal thickness. 

REC/PES. 

Boiled Turoips. — Turnips, like other vegetables, should be boiled in 
as small an amount of water as possible. Great care must be taken, 
however, that the kettle does not get dry, as scorched turnip is spoiled. 
An excellent precaution, in order to keep them from scorching in case the 
water becomes low, is to place an inverted saucer or sauce-dish in the 
bottom of the kettle before putting in the turnips. Put into boiling water, 
cook rapidly until sufficiently tender to pierce easily with a fork ; too 
much cooking discolors and renders them strong in flavor. Boiled turnips 
should be drained very thoroughly, and all water pressed out before pre- 
paring for the table. The age, size, and variety of the turnip will greatly 
vary the time necessary for its cooking. The safest rule is to allow plenty 
cf time, and test with a fork. Young turnips will cook in about forty-five 



242 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

minutes ; old turnips, sliced, require from one and a quarter to two hours. 
If whole or cut in halves, they require a proportionate length of time. 
White turnips require much less cooking than yellow ones. 

Baked Turnips. — Select turnips of viniform size; wash and wipe, but 
do not pare ; place on the top grate of a moderately hot oven ; bake two 
or more hours or until perfectly tender ; peel and serve at once, either 
mashed or with cream sauce. Turnips are much sweeter baked than 
when cooked in any other way. 

Creamed Turnips. — Pare, but do not cut, youug sweet white turnips ; 
boil till tender in a small quantity of water ; drain and dry well. Cook a 
tablespoonful of flour in a pint of rich milk or part cream ; arrange the 
turnips in a baking dish, pour the sauce over them, add salt if desired, 
sprinkle the top with grated bread crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. 

Chopped Turnips. — Chop well-boiled white turnips very fine, add salt 
to taste and sufficient lemon juice to moisten. Turn into a saucepan and 
heat till hot, gently lifting and stirring constantly. Cold boiled turnip 
may be used advantageously in this way. 

Mashed Turnips. — Wash the turnips, pare, and drop into boiling water. 
Cook until perfectly tender ; turn into a colander and press out the water 
with a plate or large spoon ; mash until free from lumps, season with a 
little sweet cream, and salt if desired. If the turnips are especially wa- 
tery, one or two hot, mealy potatoes mashed with them will be an improve- 
ment. 

Scalloped Turnips. — Prepare and boil whole white turnips until nearly 
tender ; cut into thin slices, lay in an earthen pudding dish, pour over 
them a white sauce sufficient to cover, made by cooking a tablespoonful 
of flour in a pint of milk, part cream if preferred, until thickened. Season 
with salt, sprinkle the top lightly with grated bread crumbs, and bake 
in a quick oven until a rich brown. Place the baking dish on a clean 
plate, and serve. Rich milk or cream may be used instead of white sauce, 
if preferred. 

Steamed Turnips. — Select turnips of uniform size, wash, pare, and 
steam rapidly till they can be easily pierced with a fork ; mash, or serve 
with lemon juice or cream sauce, as desired. 

Stewed Turnips.— Prepare and slice some young, fresh white turnips, 
boil or steam about twenty minutes, drain thoroughly, turn into a sauce- 
pan with a cup of new milk for each quart of turnips ; simmer gently until 
tender, season with salt if desired, and serve. 

TuruijKS in Juice. — Wash young white turnips, peel, and boil whole in 
sufficient water to keep them from burning. Cover closely and cook 
gently until tender, by which time the water in the kettle should be re- 
duced to. the consistency of syrup. Serve at once. 



• VEGETABLES. 243 

Turnips with Cream Sauce. — Wash and pare the turnips, cut them 
into half-inch dice, and cook in boiling water until tender. Meanwhile 
prepai-e a cream sauce as directed for Scalloped Turnips, using thin cream 
in place of milk. Drain the turnips, pour the cream sauce over them, let 
them boil up once, and serve. 

PARSNIPS. 

Description. — The common garden parsnip is derived by 
cultivation from the wild parsnip, indigenous to many parts of 
Europe and the north of Asia, and cultivated since Roman 
times. It is not only used for culinary purposes, but a wine is 
made from it. In the north of Ireland a table beer is brewed 
from its fermented product and hops. 

The percentage of nutritive elements contained in the pars- 
nip is very small ; so small, indeed, that one pound of parsnips 
affords hardly one fifth of an ounce of nitrogenous or muscle- 
forming material. The time required for its digestion, varies 
from two and one half to three and one half hours. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Wash and trim off any 
rough portions : scrape well with a knife to remove the skins, 
and drop at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. If 
the parsnips are smooth-skinned, fresh, and too small to need 
dividing, they need only be washed thoroughly before cooking, 
as the skins can be easily removed by rubbing with a clean 
towel. Reject those that are wilted, pithy, coarse, or stringy. 
Large parsnips should be divided, for if cooked whole, the 
outside is likely to become soft before the center is tender. 
They may be either split lengthwise or sliced. Parsnips may 
be boiled, baked, or steamed ; but like all other vegetables 
containing a large percentage of water, are preferable steamed 
or baked. 

The time required for cooking young parsnips, is about 
forty-five minutes ; when old, they require from one to two 
hours. 



244 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



RECIPES. 



Baked Parsnips. — Wash thoroughly, but do not scrape the roots; 
bake the same as potatoes. When tender, remove the skins, shce, and 
serve with cream or an egg sauce prepared as directed for Parsnips with 
Egg Sauce. They are also very nice mashed and seasoned with cream. 
Baked and steamed parsnips are far sweeter than boiled ones. 

Baked Parsnips No. 2. — W^ash, scrape, and divide; drop into boiling 
water, a little more than sufficient to cook them, and boil gently till 
thoroughly tender. There should remain about one half pint of the 
liquor when the parsnips are done. Arrange on an earthen plate or 
shallow pudding dish, not more than one layer deep ; cover with the juice, 
and bake, basting frequently until the juige is all absorbed, and the 
parsnips delicately browned. Serve at once. 

Boiled Parsnips. — Clean, scrape, drop into a small quantity of boiling 
water, and cook until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain 
thoroughly, cut the parsnips in slices, and mash or serve with a white 
sauce, to which a little lemon juice may be added if desired. 

Browned Parsnips. — Slice cold parsnips into rather thick pieces, and 
brown as directed for browned potatoes. 

Creamed Parsnips. — Bake or steam the parsnips until tender; slice, 
add salt if desired, and a cup of thin sweet cream. Let them stew slowly 
until nearly dry, or if preferred, just boil up once and serve. 

Mashed Parsnips. — Wash and scrape, dropping at once into cold 
water to prevent discoloration. Slice thinly and steam, or bake whole 
until perfectly tender. When done, mash until free from lumps, remov- 
ing all hard or stringy portions ; add salt to taste and a few spoonfuls of 
thick sweet cream, and serve. 

Parsnips mtli Cream Sance. — Bake as previously directed. When ten- 
der, slice, cut into cubes, and pour over them a cream sauce prepared as 
for Turnips with Cream Sauce. Boil up together once, and serve. 

Parsnips witli Egg Sauce. — Scrape, wash, and slice thinly, enough pars- 
nips to make three pints ; steam, bake, or boil them until very tender. If 
boiled, turn into a colander and drain well. Have ready an egg sauce, for 
preparing which heat a pint of rich milk or very thin cream to boiling, stir 
into it a level tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with a little milk. Let 
this boil a few minutes, stirring constantly until the flour is well cooked 
and the sauce thickened ; then add slowly the well-beaten yolk of one egg, 
stirring rapidly so that it shall be well mingled with the whole ; add salt 
to taste ; let it boil up once, pour over the parsnips, and serve. The 
sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream, 



VEGETABLES. 245 

Parsnips with Potatoes. — Wash, scrape, and slice enough parsnips to 
make two and a half quarts. Pare and slice enough potatoes to make one 
pint. Cook together in a small quantity of water. When tender, mash 
smoothly, add salt, the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and a cup of rich 
milk. Beat well together, put into an earthen or china dish, and brown 
lightly in the oven. 

Stewed Parsnips. — Prepare and boil for a half hour ; drain, cover 
with rich milk, add salt if desired, and stew gently till tender. 

Stewed Parsnips witli Celery. — Prepare and steam or boil some nice 
ones until about half done. If boiled, drain thoroughly ; add salt if de- 
sired, and a tablespoonful of minced celery. Turn rich boiling milk over 
them, cover, and stew fifteen or twenty minutes, or till perfectly tender. 

CARROTS. 

Description. — The garden carrot is a cultivated variety of 
a plant belonging to the Uinbclliferce, and grows wild in many 
portions of Europe. The root has long been used for food. 
By the ancient Greeks and Romans it was much esteemed as 
a salad. The carrot is said to have been introduced into En- 
gland by Flemish refugees during the reigns of Elizabeth and 
James I. Its feathery leaves were used by the ladies as an 
adornment for their headdresses, in place of plumes. Carrots 
contain sugar enough for making a syrup from them ; they also 
)neld by fermentation and distillation a spirituous liquor. In 
Germany they are sometimes cut into small pieces, and roasted 
as a substitute for coffee. 

Starch does not enter into the composition of carrots, but a 
small portion of pectose is found instead. Carrots contain 
more water than parsnips, and both much cellulose and little 
nutritive material. Carrots when well cooked form a whole- 
some food, but one not adapted to weak stomachs, as they are 
rather hard to digest, and tend to flatulence. 

Preparation and Cooking. — The suggestions given for 
the preparation of parsnips are also applicable to carrots ; and 
they may be boiled, steamed, or browned in the same manner. 
From one to two hours' time will be required, according to age, 
size, variety, and method of cooking. 



246 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

RECIPES. 

Boiled Carrots. — Clean, scrape, drop into boiling water, and cook till 
tender ; drain thoroughly, slice, and serve with a cream sauce. Varieties 
with strong flavor are better parboiled for fifteen or twenty minutes, and 
put into fresh boiling water to finish. 

Carrots with Eg-g' Sauce. — Wash and scrape well ; slice and throw 
into boiling water, or else steam. When tender, drain thoroughly, and 
pour over them a sauce prepared the same as for parsnips (page 244), with 
the addition of a tablespoonful of sugar. Let them boil up once, 
and serve. 

Stewed Carrots. — Prepare young and tender carrots, drop into boil- 
ing water, and cook for fifteen or twenty minutes. Drain, slice, and put 
into a stewpan with rich milk or cream nearly to cover ; simmer gently 
until tender ; season with salt and a little chopped parsley. 

BEETS. 

Description. — The beet is a native of the coasts of the 
Mediterranean, and is said to owe its botanical name, beta, to a 
fancied resemblance to the Greek letter B. Two varieties are 
in common use as food, the white and the red beet ; while a 
sub-variety, the sugar beet, is largely cultivated in France, in 
connection with the beet-sugar industry in that country. The 
same industry has recently been introduced into this country. 
It is grown extensively in Germany and Russia, for the same 
pose, and is also used there in the manufacture of alcohol. 

The beet root is characterized by its unusual amount of su- 
gar. It is considered more nutritive than any other esculent 
tuber except the potato, but the time required for its digestion 
exceeds that of most vegetables, being three and three fourths 
hours. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Beets, like other tubers, 
should be fresh, unshriveled, and healthy. Wash carefully, 
scrubbing with a soft brush to remove all particles of dirt ; 
but avoid scraping, cutting, or breaking, lest the sweet juices 
escape. In handling for storage, be careful not to bruise or 
break the skins ; and in purchasing from the market, select 
only such as are perfect. 



VEGETABLES. 247 

Beets may be boiled, baked, or steamed. In boiling, if the 
skin is cut or broken, the juice will escape in the water, and 
the flavor will be injured ; for this reason, beets should not be 
punctured with a fork to find if done. When tender, the 
thickest part will yield readily to pressure of the fingers. Beets 
should be boiled in just as little water as possible, and they 
will be much better if it has all evaporated by the time they 
are cooked. 

Young beets will boil in one hour, while old beets require 
from three to five hours ; if tough, wilted, and stringy, they 
cannot be boiled tender. Baked beets require from three to 
six hours. 

REC/PES. 

Baked Beets. — Beets are far better baked than boiled, though it takes 
a longer time to cook properly. French cooks bake them slowly six hours 
in a covered dish, the bottom of which is lined with well-moistened rye 
straw ; however, they may be baked on the oven grate, like potatoes. 
Wipe dry after washing, and bake slowly. They are very nice served 
with a sauce made with equal quantities of lemon juice and whipped 
cream, with a little salt. 

Bakert Beets No. 2. — Wash young and tender beets, and place in an 
earthen baking dish with a very little water ; as it evaporates, add more, 
which must be of boiling temperature. Set into a moderate oven, and 
according to size of the beets, bake slowly from two to three hours. 
When tender, remove the skins and dress with lemon juice or cream sauce. 

Beets and Potatoes. — Boil newly matured potatoes and young beets 
separately till tender ; then peel and slice. Put them in alternate layers 
in a vegetable dish, with salt to taste, and enough sweet cream nearly to 
cover. Brown in the oven, and serve at once. 

Beet Hash. — Chop quite finely an equal quantity of cold boiled or 
baked beets and boiled or baked potatoes. Put into a shallow saucepan, 
add salt and sufficient hot cream to moisten. Toss frequently, and cook 
until well heated throughout. Serve hot. 

Beet Greens. — Take young, tender beets, clean thoroughly without 
separating the tops and roots. Examine the leaves carefully, and pick 
off inferior ones. Put into boiling water, and cook for nearly an hour. 
Drain, press out all water, and chop quite fine. Serve with a dressing of 
lemon juice or cream, as preferred. 



248 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Beet Salad, or Chopped Beets. — Cold boiled or baked beets, chopped 
quite fine, but not minced, make a nice salad when served with a dressing 
of lemon juice and whipped cream in the proportion of three tablespoon- 
fuls of lemon juice to one half cup of whipped cream, and salt if desired. 

Beet Salad No. 2. — Chop equal parts of boiled beets and fresh young 
cabbage. Mix thoroughly, add salt to taste, a few tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
and cover with diluted lemon juice. Equal quantities of cold boiled beets 
and cold boiled potatoes, chopped fine, thoroughly mixed, and served with 
a dressing of lemon juice and whipped cream, make a palatable salad. 
Care should be taken in the preparation of these and the preceding salad, 
not to chop the vegetables so fine as to admit of their being eaten without 
mastication. 

Boiled Beets. — Wash carefully, drop into boiling water, and cook until 
tender. When done, drop into cold water for a minute, when the skins 
can be easily rubbed off with the hand. Slice, and serve hot with lemon 
juice or with a cream sauce. 

Stewed Beets. — Bake beets according to recipe No. 2. Peel, cut in 
slices, turn into a saucepan, nearly cover with thin cream, simmer for 
ten or fifteen minutes, add salt if desired, and thicken the gravy with a 
little corn starch or flour. 

CABBAGE. 

Description. — The common white garden cabbage is one 
of the oldest of cultivated vegetables. A variety of the plant 
known as red cabbage was the delight of ancient gormands 
more than eighteen centuries ago. The Egyptians adored it, 
erected altars to it, and made it the first dish at their repasts. 
In this they were imitated by the Greeks and Romans. 

Hippocrates, the Father of Medicine, considered the cab- 
bage one of the most valuable of remedies, and often prescribed 
a dish of boiled cabbage to be eaten with salt for patients 
suffering with violent colic. Erasistratus looked upon it as a 
sovereign remedy against paralysis, while Cato in his writings 
affirmed it to be a panacea for all diseases, and believed the 
use the Romans made of it to have been the means whereby 
they were able, during six hundred years, to do without the 
assistance of physicians, whom they had expelled from their 
territory. The learned philosopher, Pythagoras, composed 
books in which he lauded its wonderful virtues. 



VEGETABLES. 249 

The Germans are so fond of cabbage that it enters into the 
composition of a majority of their culinary products. The cab- 
bage was first raised in England about 1640, by Sir Anthony 
Ashley. That this epoch, important to the English horticult- 
ural and culinary world, may never be forgotten, a cabbage is 
represented upon Sir Anthony's monument. 

The nutritive value of the cabbag^ is not high, nearly 
ninety per cent being water ; but it forms an agreeable variety 
in the list of vegetable foods, and is said to possess marked 
antiscorbutic virtue. It is, however, difficult of digestion, and 
therefore not suited to weak stomachs. It would be impossible 
to sustain life for a lengthened period upon cabbage, since to 
supply the body with sufficient food elements, the quantity 
would exceed the rate of digestion and the capacity of the 
stomach. 

M. Chevreul, a French scientist, has ascertained that the 
peculiar odor given off during the boiling of cabbage is due to 
the disengagement of sulphureted hydrogen. Cabbage is said 
to be more easily digested raw than cooked. 

Preparation and Cooking. — A good cabbage should have 
a well-developed, firm head, with fresh, crisp leaves, free from 
worm-holes and decayed portions. To prepare for cooking, 
remove the outer leaves, divide into quarters, cut off the tough 
stalk, shake well to free from dirt, and if there are any signs of 
insects, lay in cold salted water for an hour or so to drive them 
out. Rinse away the salt water, and if to be boiled, drop into 
a small quantity of boiling water. Cover closely and boil 
vigorously until tender. If cooked slowly, it will be watery 
and stringy, while over-done cabbage is especially insipid and 
flavorless. If too . much water has been used, remove the 
cover, that evaporation may go on more rapidly ; if too little, 
replenish with boiling water. Cabbage should be cooked in a 
porcelain-lined or granite-ware sauce pan or a very clean 
iron kettle. Cabbage may also be steamed, but care must 
be taken to have the process as rapid as possible. Fresh 
young cabbage will cook in about one hour ; old cabbage 
requires from two to three hours. 



250 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



RECIPES. 



Baked Cabbag-e. — Prepare and chop a firm head of young white cab- 
bage, boil until tender, drain, and set aside until nearly cold. Then add 
two well-beaten eggs, salt to taste, and a half cup of thin cream or rich 
milk. Mix and bake in a pudding dish until lightly browned. 

Boiled Cabbag'e. — Carefully clean a nice head of cabbage, divide into 
halves, and with a sharp knife slice very thin, cutting from the center of 
the head outward. Put into boiling water, cover closely, and cook rapidly 
until tender ; then turn into a colander and drain, pressing gently with the 
back of a plate. Return to the kettle, add salt to taste, and sufficient 
sweet cream to moisten well, heat through if at all cooled, dish, and serve 
at once. If preferred, the cream may be omitted, and the cabbage served 
with tomato sauce or lemon juice as a dressing. 

Cabbag-e and Tomatoes. — Boil finely chopped cabbage in as little water 
as possible. When tender, add half the quantity of hot stewed tomatoes, 
boil together for a few minutes, being careful to avoid burning, season 
with salt if desired, and serve. If pi^eferred, a little sweet cream may be 
added just before serving. 

Cabbage Celery. — A firm, crisp head of cabbage cut in slices half an inch 
or an inch thick, and then again into pieces four or five inches long and 
two or three inches wide, makes a quite appetizing substitute for celery. 

Cabbag'e Hash. — Chop fine, equal parts of cold boiled potatoes and 
boiled cabbage, and season with salt. To each quart of the mixture add 
one half or three fourths of a cup of thin cream; mix well and boil till 
well heated. 

Chopped Cabbag'e or Cabbage Salad. — Take one pint of finely chopped 
cabbage ; pour over it a dressing made of three tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a half cup of whipped cream, 
thoroughly beaten together in the order named ; or serve with sugar and 
diluted lemon juice. 

Mashed Cabbag'e. — Cut a fine head of cabbage into quarters, and cook 
until tender. A half hour before it is done, drop in three good-sized 
potatoes. When done, take all up in a colander together, press out the 
water, and mash very fine. Season with cream, and salt if desired. 

Stewed Cabbag'e. — Chop nice cabbage quite fine, and put it into boil- 
ing water, letting it boil twenty minutes. Turn into a colander and drain 
thoroughly ; return to the kettle, cover with milk, and let it boil till per- 
fectly tender; season with salt and cream to taste. The beaten yolk of 
an egg, stirred in with the cream, is considered an improvement bj^ some. 



VEGETABLES. 25 1 

CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLL 

Description. — These vegetables are botanically allied to 
the cabbage, and are similar in composition. They are en- 
tirely the product of cultivation, and constitute the inflores- 
cence of the plant, which horticultural art has made to grow 
into a compact head of white color in the cauliflower, and of 
varying shades of buff, green, and purple in the broccoli. 
There is very little difference between the two aside from the 
color, and they are treated alike for culinary purposes. They 
were known to the Greeks and Romans, and highly appreciated 
by connoisseurs. They are not as nutritious as the cabbage, 
but have a more delicate and agreeable flavor. 

Preparation and Cooking. — The leaves should be green 
and fresh, and the heads of cauliflower creamy white ; when 
there are dark spots, it is wilted. The color of broccoli will 
depend upon the variety, but the head should be firm, with no 
discolorations. To prepare, pick off the outside leaves, cut the 
stalk squarely across, about two inches below the flower, and 
if very thick, split and wash thoroughly in several waters ; or 
better still, hold it under the faucet, flower downward, and 
allow a constant stream of water to fall over it for several 
minutes ; then place top downward in a pan of lukewarm 
salted water, to drive out any insects which may be hidden in 
it ; examine carefully for worms just the color of the stalk ; tie 
in a net (mosquito netting, say) to prevent breaking, or place 
the cauliflower on a plate in a steamer, and boil, or steam, as 
is most convenient. The time required for cooking will vary 
from twenty to forty minutes. 

RECIPES. 

(The recipes given are applicable to both broccoli and cauliflower.) 
Boiled Cauliflower. — Prepare, divide into neat branches, and tie se- 
curely in a net. Put into boiling milk and water, equal quantities, and 
cook until the main stalks are tender. Boil rapidly the first five minutes, 
afterward more moderately, to prevent the flower from becoming done 
before the stalks. Serve on a hot dish with cream sauce or diluted 
lemon juice 



252 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Browned Cauliflower. — Beat together two eggs, a little salt, four 
tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, and a small quantity of grated bread 
crumbs well moistened with a little milk, till of the consistency of batter. 
Steam the cauliflower until tender, separate it into small bunches, dip 
each top in the mixture, and place in nice order in a pudding dish ; put in 
the oven and brown. 

Cauliflower with Eg-g- Sauce. — Steam the cauliflower until tender, sep- 
arate into small portions, dish, and serve with an egg sauce prepared as 
directed for parsnips on page 244. 

Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce. — Boil or steam the cauliflower until 
tender. In another dish prepare a sauce with a pint of strained stewed 
tomatoes heated to boiling, thickened with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little water, and salted to taste. When the cauliflower is 
tender, dish, and pour over it the hot tomato sauce. If preferred, a table- 
spoonful of thick sweet cream may be added to the sauce before using. 

Stewed Cauliflower. — Boil in as little water as possible, or steam until 
tender; separate into small portions, add milk, cream, and salt to taste ; 
stew together for a few minutes, and serve. 

Scalloped Cauliflower. — Prepare the cauliflower, and steam or boil 
until tender. If boiled, use equal quantities of milk and water. Separate 
into bunches of equal size, place in a pudding dish, cover with a white or 
cream sauce, sprinkle with grated bread crumbs, and brown in the oven. 

SPINACH. 

Description. — This plant is supposed to be a native of 
western Arabia. There are several varieties which are pre- 
pared and served as " greens." Spinach is largely composed of 
water. It is considered a wholesome vegetable, with slightly 
laxative properties. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Use only tender plants or 
the tender leaves of the older stalks, and be sure to have 
enough, as spinach shrinks greatly. A peck is not too much 
for a family of four or five. Pick it over very carefully, trim off 
the roots and decayed leaves, and all tough, stringy stalks, and 
the coarse fibers of the leaves, as those will not cook tender 
until the leaves are overdone. Wash in several waters, lifting 
it from one pan to another, that it may be freed from sand and 
grit. Shake each bunch well. Spinach is best cooked in its 
own juices ; this may be best accomplished by cooking it in a 



VEGETABLES. 253 

double boiler, or if placed in a pot and slowly heated, it will 
in a short time yield sufficient juice to cook itself. It must, 
however, be stirred frequently at first, to prevent burning ; 
cover closely and cook till tender. The time required will 
vary from twenty minutes to an hour or more. If water is 
used in the cooking, have a half kettleful boiling when the 
spinach is put in, and continue to boil rapidly until the leaves 
are perfectly tender ; then drain in a colander, press with 
the back of a plate to extract all water, chop very fine, and 
either serve with lemon juice as a dressing, or add a half cup 
of sweet cream with or without a teaspoonful of sugar. Boil 
up once, stirring constantly, and serve very hot. A garnish of 
sliced boiled eggs is often employed with this vegetable. 

CELERY. 

Description. — The common celery is a native of Great 
Britain. In its wild state it has a strong, disagreeable taste 
and smell, and is known as smallage. By cultivation it be- 
comes more mild and sweet. It is usually eaten uncooked 
as a salad herb, or introduced into soups as a flavoring. In 
its raw state, it is difficult of digestion. 

Celery from the market may be kept fresh for some time by 
wrapping the bunches in brown paper, sprinkling- them with 
water, then wrapping in a damp cloth and putting in some 
cool, dark place. 

REOIPES. 

Celery Salad. — Break the stems apart, cut off all green portions, and 
after washing well put in cold water for an hour or so before serving. 

Stewed Celery. — Cut the tender inner parts of celery heads into pieces 
about a finger long. The outer and more fibrous stalks may be saved to 
season soups. Put in a stewpan, and add sufficient water to cover ; then 
cover the pan closely, and set it where it will just simmer for an hour, or 
until the celery is perfectly tender. When cooked, add a pint of rich 
milk, part cream if you have it, salt to taste, and when boiling, stir in a 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little milk. Boil up once and 
serve. 



254 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Stewed Celery No. 2. — Cut the white part of fine heads of celery into 
small pieces, blanch in boiling water, turn into a colander, and drain. 
Heat a cup and a half of milk to boihng in a stewpan ; add the celery, and 
stew gently until tender. Remove the celery with a skimmer, and stir 
into the milk the beaten yolks of two eggs and one half cup of cream. 
Cook until thickened ; pour over the celery, and serve. 

Celery >vitli Tomato Sauce. — Prepare the celery as in the preceding 
I'ecipe, and cook until tender in a small quantity of boiling water. Drain 
in a colander, and for three cups of stewed celery prepare a sauce with 
a pint of strained stewed tomato, heated to boiling and thickened with a 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. If desired, 
add a half cup of thin cream. Turn over the celery, and serve hot. 

Celery and Potato Hash. — To three cups of cold boiled or baked 
potato, chopped rather fine, add one cup of cooked celery, minced. Put 
into a shallow saucepan with cream enough to moisten well and salt to 
season. Heat to boiling, tossing and stirring so that the whole will be 
heated throughout, and serve hot. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Description. — The asparagus is a native of Europe, and 
in its wild state is a sea-coast plant. The young shoots form 
the edible portion. The plant was known to the ancient 
Greeks and Romans, who not only used it as a table delicacy 
but considered it very useful in the treatment of internal 
diseases. Roman cooks provided themselves with a supply of 
the vegetable for winter use by cutting fine heads and dry- 
ing them. When wanted, they were put into hot water and 
gently cooked. 

The asparagus is remarkable as containing a crystalline 
alkaloid called asparagin, which is thought to possess diuretic 
properties. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Select fresh and tender 
asparagus. Those versed in its cultivation, assert that it 
should be cut at least three times a week, and barely to the 
ground. If it is necessary to keep the bunches for some time 
before cooking, stand them, tops uppermost, in water about 
one half inch deep, in the cellar or other cool place. Clean 
each stalk separately by swashing back and forth in a pan of 



VEGETABLES. 255 

cold water till perfectly free from sand, then break off all the 
tough portions, cut in equal lengths, tie in bunches of half a 
dozen or more with soft tape, drop into boiling water barely 
sufficient to cover, and simmer gently until perfectly tender. 

If the asparagus is to be stewed, break fnot cut) into small 
pieces ; when it will not snap off quickly, the stalk is too 
tough for use. 

Asparagus must be taken from the water just as soon as 
tender, while yet firm in appearance. If boiled soft, it loses its 
flavor and is uninviting. It is a good plan when it is to be 
divided before cooking, if the stalks are not perfectly tender, 
to boil the hardest portions first. Asparagus cooked in bunches 
is well done, if, when held by the thick end in a horizontal 
position between the fingers, it only bends lightly and does 
not fall heavily down. 

The time required for boiling asparagus depends upon its 
freshness and age. Fresh, tender asparagus cooks in a very 
few minutes, so quickly, indeed, that the Roman emperor 
Augustus, intimating that any affair must be concluded with- 
out delay, was accustomed to say, " Let that be done quicker 
than you can cook asparagus." Fifteen or twenty minutes will 
suffice if young and fresh ; if old, from thirt}' to fifty minutes 
will be required. 

REC/PES. 

Asparag'us and Peas. — Asparagus and green peas make a nice dish 
served together, and if of proportionate age, require the same length of 
time to cook. Wash the asparagus, shell and look over the peas, put 
together into boiling water, cook, and serve as directed for stewed 
asparagus. 

Asparag-us Points.— Cut off enough heads in two-inch lengths to 
make three pints. Put into boihng water just sufficient to cover. When 
tender, drain off the water, add a half cup of cream, and salt if desired. 
Serve at once. 

Asparaji'us on Toa.st. — Cook the asparagus in bunches, and when ten- 
der, drain and place on slices of nicely browned toast moistened in the 
asparagus liquor. Pour over all a cream sauce prepared as directed below. 

Asparagns with Cream Sance. — Thoroughly wash, tie in small bunches, 
and put into boiling water ; boil till perfectly tender. Drain thoroughly, 



256 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

untie the bunches, place the stalks all the same way upon a hot plate, 
with a dressing prepared as follows : Let a pint of sweet cream (about six 
hours old is best) come to the boiling point, and stir into it salt to taste 
and a level tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with a little cold cream. 
Boil till the flour is perfectly cooked, and then pass through a fine wire 
strainer. 

Asparag:iis with Esrg: Sauce. — Prepare and cook asparagus as directed 
above. When tender, drain thoroughly, and serve on a hot dish or on 
slices of nicely browned toast, with an egg sauce prepared in the follow- 
ing manner : Heat a half cup of rich milk to boiling, add salt, and turn 
into it very slowly the well-beaten yolk of an egg, stirring constantly at the 
same time. Let the whole just thicken, and remove from the fire at once. 

Stewed Asi)arag'US. — - Wash, break into inch pieces, simmer till tender 
in water just to cover, add sufficient rich milk, part cream if convenient, 
to make a gravy, thicken slightly with flour, a teaspoonful to a pint of 
milk ; add salt if desired, boil up together once, and serve. 

SEA=KALE. 

Description. — This plant, a native of Britain, and much 
esteemed as a vegetable in England and on the Continent, is 
also in its wild state a sea-coast plant. When properly cooked, 
it is nutritious and easy of digestion. In appearance and 
flavor it greatly resembles asparagus, and the suggestions for 
cooking and recipes given for that vegetable are applicable to 
sea-kale. 

LETTUCE AND RADISH. 

Description. — These two vegetables, although wholly dif- 
ferent, the one being the leaf of a plant, the other the root, are 
both so commonly served as relishes that we will speak of them 
together. Both have long been known and used. Wild lettuce 
is said to be the bitter herb which the Hebrevv's ate with the 
Paschal lamb. The ancient Greek and Roman epicures valued 
lettuce highly, 'and bestowed great care upon its cultivation, in 
some instances watering the plants with sweet wine instead 
of water, in order to communicate to them a delicate perfume 
^nd flavor. The common garden lettuce of the present day 



VEGETABLES. 257 

is a hardy plant, which supplies an agreeable, digestible, and, 
when served with a wholesome dressing, unobjectionable salad. 
The common radish is supposed to be indigenous to China. 
Ancient writers on foods mention the radish as used by the 
early Greeks and Romans, who fancied that at the end of three 
years its seed would produce cabbages. They had also the sin- 
gular custom of making the radish the ignominious projectile 
with which in times of tumult the mob pursued persons whose 
political opinions had made them obnoxious. When quiet was 
restored, the disgraced vegetable was boiled and eaten with oil 
and vinegar. Common garden radishes are of different shapes 
and of various colors on the outside, there being black, violet, 
red, and white radishes. The inside portion of all, however, 
is white. They are sometimes cooked, but more commonly 
served raw. A dish of crisp, coral radishes adds beauty to 
the appearance of the table, but they are not possessed 
of a high nutritive value, being very similar to the turnip 
in composition, and unless very young, tender, and when 
eaten thoroughly masticated, are quite difficult of digestion. 

REC/PES. 

Lettuce. — Wash well, put into cold water, and set on ice or on the cel- 
lar bottom for an hour or more before using. Dry the leaves with a soft 
towel and use whole or tear into convenient pieces with a silver fork ; never 
cut with a knife. Serve with a dressing prepared of equal quantities of 
lemon juice and sugar, diluted with a little ice water ; or, with a dressing 
of cream and sugar, in the proportion of three or four tablespoonfuls of 
thin cream to a teaspoonful of sugar. The dressing may be prepared, 
and after the sugar is dissolved, a very little lemon juice (just enough to 
thicken the cream slightly, but not sufficient to curdle it) may be added 
if desired. 

Radishes. — Wash thoroughly young and tender radishes, and arrange 
in a glass dish with the taper ends meeting. Scatter bits of cracked ice 
among them. An inch of the stem, if left on, serves as a convenience in 
handling. 

17 



258 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

CYMLING, SUMMER SQUASH, or VEGETABLE 
MARROW. 

Description. — The vegetable marrow (sometimes called 
cymling) is thought to be a variety of the common gourd, 
from which also the pumpkin and winter squash appear to 
have been derived. It is easily digested, but on account of 
the abundance of water in its composition, its nutritive value 
is very low. 

Preparation and Cooking. — When very young, most va- 
rieties need no preparation for cooking, aside from washing 
thoroughly. After cooking, the skin can be easily rubbed off 
and the seeds removed. If more mature, pare thinly, and if 
large, divide into halves or quarters and scoop out the seeds. 
Summer squashes are better steamed than boiled. If boiled, 
they should be cooked in so little water that it will be quite 
evaporated when they are tender. From twenty to sixty 
minutes will be required for cooking. 

REC/PES. 

■ Mashed S(iuasli. — Wash, peel, remove seeds, and steam until tender. 
Place the squash in a clean cloth, mash thoroughly, squeeze until the 
squash is quite dry, or rub through a fine colander and afterward simmer 
until nearly dry ; season with cream, and a little salt if desired, and heat 
again before serving. A teaspoonful of sugar may be added with the 
cream, if desired. 

Squash with Eg-g' Sauce. — Prepare, steam till tender, cut into pieces, 
and serve with an egg sauce made the same as directed for asparagus, 
page 256. 

Stewed Squash. — Prepare, cut into pieces, and stew until tender in a 
small quantity of boiling water ; drain, pressing out all the water ; serve 
on toast with cream or white sauce. Or, divide in quarters, remove the 
seeds, cook in a double boiler, in its own juices, which when done may 
be thickened with a little flour. Season with salt if desired, and serve hot. 



VEGETABLES. 259 



WINTER SQUASHES. 

The winter squash and pumpkin are allied in nature to the 
•summer squash. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Select squashes of a firm 
texture, wash, break in pieces with a hatchet if hard-shell, or if 
the shell is soft, divide with a knife ; remove all seeds, and boil, 
stew, steam, or bake, as preferred. 

To boil or steam, from thirty minutes to one hour's time 
will be needed ; to bake, one to two hours. 

RECfPES. 

Baked Squash. — The hard-shell varieties are best for baking. Wash, 
divide, and lay, shells downward, on the top grate of the oven, or place in 
a shallow baking dish with a little boiling water. Bake until tender, serve 
in the shell, or scrape out the soft part, mash and serve with two large 
tablespoonfuls of cream to a pint of squash. If preferred, the skins may 
be removed before baking, and the squash served the same as sweet po- 
tato, for which it makes a good substitute. 

Steamed Squash. — Prepare the squash, and steam until tender. Mash 
and season as for baked squash. 

THE PUMPKIN. 

Description. — When our forefathers came to this country, 
they found the pumpkin growing in the Indian cornfields, and 
at once made use of it. Although as food it did not supply 
what its handsome exterior promised, yet in the absence of 
other fruits and relishes, of which the exigencies of a new 
country deprived them, they soon found the pumpkin quite 
palatable ; and the taste, cultivated through necessity, has been 
handed down through generations, until the pumpkin stewed 
and baked in pies, has become an established favorite. 



26o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



REC/PES. 

Baked Pumpkin. — Wash the pumpkin well on the outside, divide into 
quarters if small, into sixths or eighths if large ; remove the seeds but not 
the rind. Bake as directed for squash. Serve in the rind, dishing it out 
by spoonfuls. 

Stewed Pumpkin. — Select a good, ripe pumpkin, and cut in halves; 
remove the seeds, slice halfway around, pare, cut into inch pieces, put 
over the fire in a kettle containing a small quantity of boiling water, and 
stew gently, stirring frequently until it breaks to pieces. Cool, rub 
through a colander, and place where it will just simmer, but not burn, 
until the water is all evaporated and the pumpkin dry. Pumpkin for pies 
is much richer baked like squash, and rubbed through a colander after the 
skin has been removed. 

Dried Pumpkin. — Pumpkin may be dried and kept for future use. The 
best way is first to cut and stew the pumpkin, then spread on plates, and 
dry quickly in the oven. Dried in this manner, it is easily softened, when 
needed, by soaking in a small quantity of water, and is considered nearly 
as good as that freshly stewed. 

TOMATO. 

Description. — The tomato, or "love apple," as it was 
called in the early part of the century, is a native of South 
America and Mexico. It was formerly regarded as poisonous, 
and though often planted and prized as a curiosity in the 
flower garden, it has only within the last half century come 
to be considered as a wholesome article of diet. Botanically, 
it is allied to the potato. It is an acid fruit, largely com- 
posed of water, and hence of low nutritive value ; but it is 
justly esteemed as a relish, and is very serviceable to the cook 
in the preparation of soups and various mixed dishes. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Tomatoes to be served in 
an uncooked state should be perfectly ripe and fresh. The 
medium-sized, smooth ones are the best. To peel, pour scald- 
ing water over them ; let them remain for half a minute, plunge 
into cold water, allow them to cool, when the skins can be 
easily rubbed off Tomatoes should always be cooked in porce- 
lain or granite ware ; iron makes them look dark, and being 



VEGETABLES. 261 

slightly acid in character, they are not wholesome cooked in 
tin vessels. 

Tomatoes require cooking- a long time ; one hour is needed, 
and two are better. 

RECIPES. 

Baked Tomatoes. — Fill a pudding dish two thirds full of stewed 
tomatoes ; season with salt, and sprinkle grated crumbs of good whole- 
wheat or Graham bread over it until the top looks diy. Brown in the 
oven, and serve with a cream dressing. 

Baked Tomatoes No. 2. Wash and wipe a quantity of smooth, even- 
sized tomatoes ; remove the stems with a sharp-pointed knife. Arrange 
on an earthen pudding or pie dish, and bake whole in a moderate oven. 
Serve with cream. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. — Take a pint of stewed tomatoes, which have 
been rubbed through a colander, thicken with one and one fourth cups 
of lightly picked crumbs of Graham or whole-wheat bread, or a suffi- 
cient quantity to make it quite thick, add salt if desired, and a half 
cup of sweet cream, mix well, and bake for twenty minutes. Or, fill a 
pudding dish with alternate layers of peeled and sliced tomatoes and 
bread crumbs, letting the topmost layer be of tomatoes. Cover, and 
bake in a moderate oven for an hour or longer, according to depth. 
Uncover, and brown for ten or fifteen minutes. 

Stewed Corn and Tomatoes. — Boil dried or fresh corn until perfectly 
tender, add to each cup of corn two cups of stewed, strained tomatoes, 
either canned or freshly cooked. Salt to taste, boil together for five or 
ten minutes, and serve plain or with a little cream added. 

Tomato Gravy. — Heat to boiling one pint of strained stewed tomatoes, 
either canned or fresh, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little water ; add salt and when thickened, if desired, a half 
cup of hot cream. Boil together for a minute or two and serve at once. 

Tomato Salad. — Select perfectly ripe tomatoes, and peel at least an 
hour before using. Slice, and place on ice or in a cool place. Serve 
plain or with lemon juice or sugar as preferred. 

Tomato Salad No. 2. — Use one half small yellow tomatoes and one half 
red. Slice evenly and lay in the dish in alternate layers. Powder 
lightly with sugar, and turn over them a cupful of orange juice to the pint 
of tomato, or if preferred, the juice of lemons may be used instead. Set 
on ice and cool before serving. 

Broiled Tomatoes. — Choose perfectly ripened but firm tomatoes of 
equal size. Place them on a wire broiler, and broil over glowing coals. 



262 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

from three to eight minutes, according to size, then turn and cook on the 
other side. Broil the stem end first. Serve hot with salt to season, and 
a little cream. 

Tomato Piiddiiig'. — Fill an earthen pudding dish with alternate layers 
of stale bread and fresh tomatoes, peeled, sliced, and sprinkled lightly 
with sugar. Cover the dish and bake. 

Stewed Tomatoes. — Peel and slice the tomatoes. Put them into a double 
boiler, without the addition of water, and stew for an hour or longer. 
When done, serve plain with a little sugar added, or season with salt and 
a tablespoonful of rather thick sweet cream to each pint of tomatoes. If 
the tomatoes are thin and very juicy, they may be thickened with a little 
flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. They are much better, how- 
ever, to stew a longer time until the water they contain is sufficiently 
evaporated to make them of the desired consistency. The stew may also 
be thickened, if desired, by the addition of bread crumbs, rice, or macaroni. 

Tomato with Okra. — Wash the okra, cut off the stem and nibs, and 
slice thin. For a quart of sliced okra, peel and slice three large toma- 
toes. Stew the tomatoes for half an hour, then add the okra, and simmer 
together for half an hour longer. Season with salt and a little cream. 

EGG PLANT. 

Description. — The egg plant, a vegetable indig-enous to 
the East Indies, is somewhat allied in character to the tomato. 
In shape, it resembles an egg, from which fact it doubtless de- 
rives its name. It ranks low in nutritive value. When fresh, 
the plant is firm and has a smooth skin. 

REC/PES. 

Scalloped Egg Plant. — Pare a fresh egg plant. If large, divide in 
quarters, if small, in halves, and put to cook in boiling water. Cook until 
it can be easily pierced with a straw, and drain in a colander. Turn into 
a hot dish, and beat with a silver fork until finely broken. Measure the 
egg plant, and add to it an equal quantity of grated bread crumbs, a little 
salt, and a tablespoonful of thick sweet cream. Lastlj', add one well beaten 
egg. Put in an earthen pudding dish, and brown in the oven until the egg 
is set, and the whole is heated throughout but not dry. 

Baked Eg-g- Plant. — Wash and cook whole in boiling water until tender. 
Divide in halves, remove the inside with a spoon, taking care not to break 
the skin. Beat the egg plant smooth with a fork. Season with salt and 



VEGETABLES. 263 

cream, and if desired, a stalk of celery or a small slice of onion very finely 
minced, for flavor. Put back in the skin, sprinkle the top with bread 
crumbs, and brown the cut side uppermost in the oven. 

CUCUMBER. 

Description. — The cucumber is a native of Southern Asia, 
although it is quite commonly cultivated in most civilized 
countries. It formed a part of the dietary of the Israelites 
when in Egypt, where it grew very plentifully. The ancient 
Greeks held the cucumber in high esteem, and attributed to it 
wonderful properties. 

The cucumber is not a nutritious vegetable, and when served 
in its raw state, as it so generally is, dressed with salt, vinegar, 
pepper, and similar condiments, it is an exceedingly indigesti- 
ble article. If it is to be eaten at all, it should first be cooked. 
It may be pared, divided in quarters, the seeds removed, and 
cooked in a small quantity of water until perfectly tender, and 
served on toast with an egg sauce or a cream sauce ; or it may 
be prepared the same as directed for Escalloped Egg Plant. 

SALSIFY, OR YEGTABLE OYSTER. 

Description. — The vegetable oyster plant, sometimes 
called purple goat's-beard, or salsify, is indigenous to some 
portions of Great Britain. The long, slender root becomes 
fleshy and tender under cultivation, with a flavor, when cooked, 
somewhat resembling that of the mollusk for which it is named. 
On this account, it is much esteemed for soups. A variety of 
the plant grows near the line of perpetual snow, and forms the 
principal article of fresh vegetable food in the dietary of Kur- 
distan. 

Preparation and Cooking. — Select fresh and unshriveled 
roots, wash and scrape well, dropping into cold water as soon 
as cleaned, to prevent discoloration. If the roots are covered 
with cold water for a half hour or more before scraping, they 
can be cleaned much easier. Use a porcelain-lined kettle, for 



•264 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

cooking, as an iron one will discolor it and injure its flavor. 
From twenty minutes to one hour, according to age, is re- 
quired to cook it tender. 

REC/PES. 

Scalloped Vegetable Oysters. — Boil two quarts of sliced vegetable 
oysters in about two quarts of water until very tender. Skim them out, 
and fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, having 
a layer of crumbs for the top. To the water in which they were boiled, 
add a pint and a half of thin cream, salt to taste, boil up, and thicken 
with a heaping tablespoonful or two of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold 
cream. Pour this over the oysters and crumbs, and bake a half hour. 
If this is not enough to cover well, add more cream or milk. Stewed 
tomatoes are a nice accompaniment for escalloped vegetable oysters. 

Stewed Vegetable Oysters. — Wash, scrape, and cut into slices not 
more than one half inch in thickness. Put into a small quantity of boiling 
water and cook until tender. If a large quantity of water is used, the 
savory juices escape, and leave the roots very insipid. When tender, 
pour in a cup of rich milk and simmer for five or ten minutes ; add a little 
flour rubbed smooth in milk, and salt if desired ; boil up once, and serve 
as a vegetable or on slices of nicely browned toast. If preferred, a well- 
beaten egg may be used in the place of flour. 

GREEN CORN, PEAS, AND BEANS. 

Description. — Corn, peas, and beans in their immature 
state are so nearly allied to vegetables, that we give in this 
connection recipes for cooking green corn, green beans, and 
green peas. A general rule applicable to all is that they should, 
when possible, be cooked and eaten the day they are gathered, 
as otherwise they lose much of their sweetness and flavor. 
For corn, select young, tender, well-filled ears, from which the 
milk will spurt when the grain is broken with the finger nail. 
Beans and peas are fresh only when the pods are green, plump, 
snap crisply when broken, and have unshriveled stems. If the 
pods bend and appear wilted, they are stale. Corn, peas, and 
beans are wholesome and nutritious foods when thoroughly 
cooked and sufficiently masticated, but they are almost indi- 
gestible unless the hull, or skin, of each pea, bean, or grain of 
corn, be broken before being swallowed. 



VEGETABLES. 265 

REC/PES FOR CORN. 

Baked Corn. — Select nice fresh ears of tender corn of as nearly equal 
size as possible. Open the husks and remove all the silk from the corn ; 
replace and tie the husks around the ears with a thread. Put the corn 
in a hot oven, and bake thirty minutes or until tender. Remove the 
husks before serving. 

Baked Corn No. 2. — Scrape enough corn from the cob (as directed be- 
low for Corn Pulp) to make one and a half quarts. Put into a baking dish, 
season with salt if desired, add enough milk, part cream if convenient, 
barely to cover the corn, and bake in a hot oven twenty-five or thirty 
minutes. 

Boiled Green Corn. — Remove the husks and every thread of the silk 
fiber. Place in a kettle, the larger ears at the bottom, with sufficient boil- 
ing water nearly to cover. Cover with the clean inner husks, and cook 
from twenty to thirty minutes, according to the age of the corn ; too much 
cooking hardens it and detracts from its flavor. Try a kernel, and when 
the milk has thickened, and a raw taste is no longer apparent, it is suffi- 
ciently cooked. Green corn is said to be sweeter, boiled with the inner 
husks on. For cooking in this way, strip off all outer husks, and remove 
the silk, tying the inner husk around the ear with a bit of thread, and boil. 
Remove from the kettle, place in a heated dish, cover with a napkin and 
serve at once on the cob. Some recommend scoring or splitting the corn 
by drawing a sharp knife through each row lengthwise. This is a wise 
precaution against insufficient mastication. 

Stewed Corn Pulp. — Take six ears of green corn or enough to make a 
pint of raw pulp ; with a sharp knife cut a thin shaving from each row of 
kernels or score each kernel, and with the back of the knife scrape out the 
pulp, taking care to leave the hulls on the cob. Heat a cup and a half of 
rich milk — part cream if it can be afforded — to boiling, add the corn, 
cook twenty or thirty minutes ; season with salt and a teaspoonful of 
sugar if desired. 

Corn Cakes. — To a pint of corn pulp add two well-beaten eggs and two 
tablespoonfuls of flour; season with salt if desired, and brown on a grid- 
dle. Canned corn finely chopped can be used, but two tablespoonfuls of 
milk should be added, as the corn is less moist. 

Corn Puddinii'. — One quart of corn pulp prepared as for stewing, one 
quart of milk, three eggs, and a little salt. Mix the corn with a pint of the 
milk, and heat it to boiling. Break the eggs into the remainder of the 
milk, and add it to the corn, turn all into an oiled pudding dish, and bake 
slowly until the custard is well set. 

Roasted dJreen Corn. — Remove the husks and silk, and place the corn 
before an open grate or in a wire broiler over hot coals until the kernels 



266 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

burst open, or bury in hot ashes without removing the husks. Score the 
grains, and serve from the cob. 

Stewed Green Corn. — Cut the corn from the cob and with the back of 
the knife scrape off all the pulp, being careful to leave the hull on the cob. 
Put into a stewpan with half as much water as corn, cover closely and stew 
gently until thoroughly cooked, stirring frequently to prevent the corn 
from sticking to the pan ; add cream or milk to make the requisite amount 
of juice, and season with salt if desired. A teaspoonful of white sugar may 
be added if desired. 

Cold boiled corn cut from the cob and stewed a few minutes in a little 
milk, makes a very palatable dish. 

Summer Succotash. — This may be made by cooking equal quantities of 
shelled beans and corn cut from the cob, separately until tender, and then 
mixing them ; or the beans may be cooked until nearly soft, an equal 
quantity of shaved corn added, and the whole cooked fifteen or twenty 
minutes or longer. Season with cream, and salt if desired. 

Dried Corn. — The sweet varieties of corn taken when young and ten- 
der and properly dried, furnish an excellent material for nearly all pur- 
poses to which green corn is put. Take green corn, just right for eating, 
have it free from silk ; cut the fleshy portion from the cob with a sharp 
knife, then with the back of the knife gently press the remaining pulp from 
the cob. Spread thinly on plates and put into an oven hot enough to 
scald, not scorch it. Watch closely for a half hour or more, turning and 
stirring frequently witl^ a fork. When thus thoroughly scalded, the corn 
may be left without further attention if placed in a moderate oven, save 
an occasional stirring to prevent its sticking to the plate, until the drying 
is complete, which ought to be in about forty-eight hours; however, if one 
can spend the time to watch closely and stir very frequently, the drying 
may be completed in a single afternoon in a rather hot oven. Be careful 
that it does not scorch. 

When needed for use, soak over night and cook in accordance with 
recipes for Stewed Corn, Succotash, etc., pages 265, 224, only remember- 
ing to allow a longer time. 

REC/PES FOR PEAS. 

Stewed Peas. — If from the garden, pick and shell the peas with clean 
hands ; if from the market, wash the pods before shelling, so that the peas 
will not require washing, as they are much better without. When shelled, 
put into a colander and sift out the fine particles and undeveloped blos- 
soms. If not of equal growth, sort the peas and put the older ones to 
cook ten minutes before the others. Use a porcelain kettle, with one half 



VEGETABLES. 267 

pint of boiling water for each quart of peas, if young and tender ; older 
ones, which require longer stewing, need more. Cover closely, and sim- 
mer gently till tender. The time required for young peas is from twenty- 
five to thirty minutes; older ones require from forty to fifty minutes. 
Serve without draining, season with salt and enough sweet cream to make 
them as juicy as desired. If preferred, the juice may be thickened with a 
little flour. 

The peas may be purposely stewed in a larger quantity of water, 
and served in their own juices thickened with a little flour and seasoned 
with salt. 

RECIPES FOR BEAI\/S. 

Lima Beans. — Lima beans are not good until they are full grown and 
have turned white. Shell, wash, cover with boiling water, and cook about 
one hour or until tender. Let the water nearly evaporate, and add milk 
or cream thickened with a little flour. Season with salt to taste, boil up 
once, and serve. 

Shelled Beans. — Shell, wash, drop into boiling water sufficient to 
cover, and cook until tender. Let the water boil nearly away, and serve 
without draining. Season with thin cream, and salt if desired. 

String" Beans. — Wash well in cold water. Remove the strong fiber, or 
strings, as they are called, by paring both edges with a sharp knife ; few 
cooks do this thoroughly. Break off stems and points, carefully rejecting 
any imperfect or diseased pods. Lay a handful evenly on a board and 
cut them all at once into inch lengths. Put in a porcelain kettle, cover 
with boiling water, and cook from one to three hours, according to age and 
variety, testing frequently, as they should be removed from the kettle just 
as soon as done. When very young and tender, only water sufficient to 
keep them from burning will be needed. When done, add a half cup of 
thin cream, and salt to taste. If the quantity of juice is considerable, 
thicken with a little flour. 

THE ONION. 

The onion belongs to a class of foods containing an acrid oil 
of a strongly irritating character, on which account it cannot 
be considered a wholesome food when eaten raw, as it so gen- 
erally is. The essential oil is, however, quite volatile, so that 
when cooked, after being first parboiled in two or three waters, 
its irritating properties are largely removed. The varieties 
grown in warm climates are much milder and sweeter than 



268 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

those grown in colder countries. The onion is valuable for 
flavoring purposes. It may also be boiled and served whole 
with a cream sauce, or cut in quarters and prepared as directed 
for Scalloped Turnips, page 242. 

CANNING VEGETABLES. 

Most housekeepers experience more difficulty in canning 
and keeping vegetables than fruit. This is frequently owing to 
lack of care to secure perfect cans, covers, and rubbers, and to 
cook the vegetables thoroughly. Whatever is to be canned 
must be cooked sufficiently to be eaten, and must be boiling at 
the time it is put into the cans. Care as to the cleanliness of 
the cans and their sterilization is also important, and after the 
canning process is completed, all vegetables put up in glass 
should be kept in a cool, dark place. The general directions 
given for canning fruits should be followed in canning vege- 
tables. 

RECIPES. 

Canned Corn. — Select corn just ripe enough for table use, and prepare 
as directed for stewed corn. It will require from twelve to fifteen ears to 
fill sufficiently each quart can. To insure success, the cans should be so 
full that when the corn is shrunken by the cooking, the can will still be 
well filled. Pack the corn in the cans, working it down closely by means 
of the small end of a potato masher, so the milk will cover the corn and 
completely fill the can ; heap a little more corn loosely on the top, and 
screw the covers on sufficiently tight to prevent water from getting into 
the can. Place the cans in a boiler, on the bottom of which has been 
placed some straw or a rack ; also take care not to let the cans come in 
contact with each other, by wrapping each in a cloth or by placing a chip 
between them. A double layer of cans may be placed in the boiler, one 
on top of the other, if desirable, provided there is^ some intervening sub- 
stance. Fill the boiler with cold water so as completely to cover the 
cans ; place over the fire, bring gradually to a boil, and keep boiling 
steadily for four hours. Remove the boiler from the fire, and allow the 
cans to cool gradually, tightening the covers frequently as they cool. 

If the corn in the can shrinks, do not open to refill. If cooked 
thoroughly, and due care is taken in other particulars, there need be no 



VEGETABLES. 269 

failure. Wrap closely in brown paper, and put away in a dark, cool, 
dry place. 

Canned Corn and Tomatoes. — Use about one third corn and two thirds 
tomatoes, or in equal portions if preferred. Cook the tomatoes in a 
double boiler for an hour and a half or longer ; and in another double 
boiler, when the tomatoes are nearly done, cook the corn m its own 
juices until thoroughly done. Turn them together, heat to boiling, and 
can at once. 

Canned Peas. — Select peas which are fresh, young, and tender. Shell, 
pack into perfect cans, shaking and filling as full as possible, add suffi- 
cient cold water to fill them to overflowing, screw on the covers, and cook 
and seal the same as directed for canning corn. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Tomatoes for canning should be freshly gathered, 
ripe, but not at all softened. 

As they are best cooked in their own juices, peel, slice, put into a 
double boiler or a porcelain fruit-kettle set mside a dish filled with boiling 
water, and cook from one to two hours. Cooked in the ordinary way, great 
care will be required to keep the fruit from burning. When thoroughly 
cooked - — simple scalding will not do — put into cans, and be sure that all 
air bubbles are expelled before sealing. Wrap in dark brown paper, and 
put in a cool, dry, dark place. 

Canned Tomatoes No. 2. — Cut the fruit into thick slices, let it stand 
and drain until a large portion of the juice has drained off; then pack 
solid in new or perfect' cans. Allow them to stand a little time, then again 
drain off the juice; fill up a second time with sliced tomatoes, and screw 
on the top of the cans without the rubbers. Pack into a wash boiler as 
directed for canning corn, and boil for two hours, then put on the rubbers 
and seal. When cold, tighten the covers and put away. 

Strini? Beans. — Select young and tender beans, string them, and cut 
into pieces about one half inch in length. Pack the cans as full as pos- 
sible, and fill with water until every crevice between the beans is full. 
Screw on the covers and can in the same manner as corn. 

Shelled beans may be canned in the same way. 

Canned Pnmpkin and Squash. — These fruits when canned are quite as 
desirable for pies as the fresh material. The same general rules should 
be followed as in canning other vegetables and fruits. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The word "vegetarian" is not derived from " vegetable," but from the Latin, 
homo vegetiis, meaning among the Romans a strong, robust, thoroughly healthy man. 

An Inteli.ectxial Feast. — Professor Louis Agassiz in his early manhood 
visited Germany to consult Oken, the transcendentalist in zoological classification. 
"After I had delivered to him my letter of introduction," he once said to a friend, 
" Oken asked me to dine with him, and you may suppose with what joy I accepted 
the invitation. The dinner consisted only of potatoes, boiled and roasted ; but it was 
the best dinner I ever ate ; for there was Oken. Never before were such potatoes 
grown on this planet ; for the mind of the man seemed to enter into what we ate 
sociably together, and I devoured his intellect while munching his potatoes." 

Dr. Abernethy's recipe for using cucumbers: "Peel the cucumber, slice it, 
pepper it, put vinegar to it, then throw it out the window." 

A green son of the Emerald Isle was eating sweet corn from the cob for the first 
time. He handed the cob to the waiter, and asked, " Will you plaze put some more 
beans on my shtick ? " 

A French physician styles spinach le balai de Pestomac (broom of the 
stomach). 

An o.x. is satisfied with the pasture of an acre or two ; one wood suffices for sev- 
eral elephants. Man alone supports himself by the pillage of the whole earth and 
sea. What ? Has Nature indeed given us so insatiable a stomach, while she has 
given us so insignificant bodies ? No ; it is not the hunger of our stomachs, but in- 
satiable covetousness which costs so much. — Seneca. 

The oftener we go to the vegetable M'orld for our food, the oftener we go to the 
first and therefore the cheapest source of supply. The tendencies of all advanced 
scholars in thrift should be to find out plans for feeding all the community, as far as 
possible, direct from the lap of earth ; to impress science into our service so that she 
may prepare the choicest viands minus the necessity of making a lower animal the 
living laboratory for the sake of what is iust a little higher than cannibal propensities. 
— Dr. B. W. Richardson. 

A Voice from the Corn. 

I was made to be eaten, not to be drank. 
To be husked in a barn, not soaked in a tank ; 
I come as a blessing when put in a mill. 
As a blight and a curse when run through a still. 
Make me up into loaves, and your children are fed ; 
But made into drink, I will starve them instead. 
In bread I'm a servant the eater shall rule, 
In drink I'm a master, the drinker a fool. 
Then remember my warning ; my strength I'll employ. 
If eaten, to strengthen, if drunk, to destroy. — Sel. 
[270] 




^./sA'A/iffZHo/^/^ 



'A^^k OUP is an easily made, economical, and when properly 
;J^^ prepared from healthful and nutritious material, very 
^iW/J wholesome article of diet, deserving of much more 
^j^*" general use than is commonly accorded it. 

In general, when soup is mentioned, some preparation of 
meat and bones is supposed to be meant ; but we shall treat 
in this chapter of a quite different class of soups, viz., those pre- 
pared from the grains, legumes, and vegetables, without the 
previous preparation of a "stock." Soups of this character are 
in every way equal, and in many points superior, to those made 
from meat and bones. If we compare the two, we shall find 
that soups made from the grains and legumes rank much 
higher in nutritive value than do meat soups. For the prepara- 
tion of the latter, one pound of meat and bones, in about equal 
proportion, is required for each quart of soup. In the bone, 
there is little or no nourishment, it being valuable simply for 
the gelatine it contains, which gives consistency to the soup ; 
so in reality there is only one half pound of material contain- 
ing nutriment, for the quart of soup. Suppose, in comparison, 

[271 1 



272 SCIENCE IX THE KITCHEN. 

we take a pea soup. One half pound of peas will be amply 
enough for a quart. i\s we take an equal amount of material 
as basis for each soup, we can easih* determine their relative 
value b}- comparing the amount of nutritive material contained 
in peas with that of beef, the most commonly used material for 
meat soups. As will be seen by reference to the table of food 
analyses on page 486, peas contain 8y.^ parts nutritive ma- 
terial, while lean beef contains only 28 parts in one hundred. 
Thus the pea soup contains more than three times as much 
nourishment as does the beef soup. 

Soups prepared from grains and legumes are no more ex- 
pensive than meat soups, and many kinds cost much less, while 
they have the added advantage of requiring less time and no 
more labor to prepare. 

The greater bulk of all meat soups is water, holding in 
solution the essence of meat, the nutritive value of which is 
of very doubtful character. 

When properly prepared, the solid matter which enters into 
the composition of vegetable soups, is so broken up in the pro- 
cess of cooking, that it is more easily digested than in any 
other form. 

Taken hot at the beginning of a meal, soup stimulates the 
flow of the digestive juices, and on account of the bulk, brings 
a sense of satiet}- before an excessive quantity of food has 
been taken. 

In preparing soups from grains, legumes, and vegetables, 
the material should be first cooked in the ordinar}' manner, 
using as small an amount of water as practicable, so as the 
more thoroughly to disintegrate or break it up. If the material 
be legum.es or grains, the cooking should be slow and pro- 
longed. The purpose to be attained in the cooking of all foods 
is the partial digestion of the food elements ; and in general, 
with these foods, the more slowly (if continuous) the cooking is 
done, the more completely will this be brought about. 

When the material is cooked, the next step is to make it 
homogeneous throughout, and to remove any skins or cellulose 
material it may contain. To do this, it should be put through 



SOUPS. 



27: 



a colander. The kind of colander depends upon the material. 
Peas and beans require a fine colander, since the skins, of which 
we are seeking to rid them, would easily go through a coarse 
one. To aid in this sifting process, if the material be at 
all dry, a small quantity of liquid may be added from time to 
time. When the colander process is complete, a sufficient 
amount of milk or other liquid may be added to make the 
whole of the consistency of rather thick cream. 

If the material is now cold, it must be reheated, and the salt, 
if any is to be used, added. The quantity of salt will depend 
somewhat upon the taste of the consumer ; but in general, one 




Chinese Soup Strainer. 



half teaspoonful to the pint of soup will be an ample supply. 
If any particular flavor, as of onion or celery, is desired, it may 
be imparted to the soup by adding to it a slice of onion or a 
few stalks of celery, allowing them to remain during the reheat- 
ing. By the time the soup is well heated, it will be delicately 
flavored, and the pieces of onion or celery may be removed with 
a fork or a skimmer. It is better, in general, to cook the soup 
all that is needed before flavoring, since if allowed to boil, all 
delicate flavors are apt to be lost by evaporation. When re- 
heated, add to the soup a quantity of cream as seasoning, in 
the proportion of one cup of thin cream for every quart or 
three pints of soup. 

To avoid the possibility of any lumps or fragments in the 
soup, pour it again through a colander or a Chinese soup 
18 



274 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

strainer into the soup tureen, and serve. It is well to take 
the precaution first to heat the strainer and tureen, that the 
soup be not cooled during the process. 

If it is desired to have the soup especially light and nice, 
beat or whip the cream before adding, or beat the hot soup 
with an egg beater for a few minutes after adding the cream. 
The well-beaten yolk of an egg for every quart or three pints 
of soup, will answer as a very fair substitute for cream in po- 
tato, rice, and similar soups. It should not be added to the 
body of the soup, but a cupful of the hot soup may be turned 
slowly onto the egg, stirring all the time, in order to mix it well 
without curdling, and then the cupful stirred into the whole. 
Soups made from legumes are excellent without cream. 

The consistency of the soup when done should be about that 
of single cream, and equal throughout, containing no lumps or 
fragments of material. If it is too thick, it may be easily diluted 
with hot milk or water ; if too thin, it will require the addition 
of more material, or may be thickened with a little flour or 
cornstarch rubbed to a cream with a small quantity of milk, 
used in the proportion of one tablespoonful for a quart of soup, 
— heaping, if flour; scant, if cornstarch, — and remembering 
always to boil the soup five or ten minutes after the flour is 
added, that there may be no raw taste. 

The addition of the flour or cornstarch gives a smoothness 
"to their consistency which is especially desirable for some 
soups. A few spoonfuls of cooked oatmeal or cracked wheat, 
added and rubbed through the colander with the other ma- 
terial, is valuable for the same purpose. Browned flour pre- 
pared by spreading a cupful thinly on shallow tins, and placing 
in a moderately hot oven, stirring frequently until lightly and 
evenly browned, is excellent to use both for thickening and 
flavoring certain soups. 

If whole grains, macaroni, vermicelli, or shredded vegetables 
are to be used in the soup, cook them separately, and add to 
the soup just before serving. 

The nutritive value of soup depends of course upon its in- 
gredients, and these should be so chosen and combined as to 



SOUPS. 275 

produce the best possible food from the material employed. 
Milk is a valuable factor in the preparation of soups. With 
such vegetables as potatoes, parsnips, and others of the class 
composed largely of starch, and containing but a small propor- 
tion of the nitrogenous food elements, its use is especially 
important as an addition to their food value, as also to their 
palatableness. Very good soups may, however, be made from 
legumes, if carefully cooked with water only. 

Soups oft'er a most economical way of making use of the 
"left-over" fragments which might otherwise be consigned to 
the refuse bucket. A pint of cold mashed potatoes, a cupful of 
stewed beans, a spoonful or two of boiled rice, stewed tomatoes, 
or other bits of vegetables and grains, are quite as good for 
soup purposes as fresh material, provided they have been pre- 
served fresh and sweet. To insure this it is always best to put 
them away in clean dishes ; if retained in the dish from which 
they were served, the thin smears and small crumbs on the 
sides which spoil much sooner than the larger portion, will 
help to spoil the rest. One may find some difficulty in rubbing 
them through the colander unless they are first moistened. 
Measure the cold food, and then determine how much liquid 
will be needed, and add a part of this before attempting to put 
through the colander. 

It is difficult to give specific directions for making soups of 
fragments, as the remnants to be utilized will vary so much in 
character as to make such inapplicable, but the recipes given 
for combination soups will perhaps serve as an aid in this direc- 
tion. Where a sufficient amount of one kind of food is left 
over to form the basis of a soup or to serve as a seasoning, it 
can be used in every way the same as fresh material. When, 
however, there is but a little of various odds and ends, the 
general rule to be observed is to combine only such materials 
as harmonize in taste. 

Soups prepared from the grains, legumes, and vegetables, are 
so largely composed of food material that it is important that 
they be retained in the mouth long enough for proper insaliva- 
tion ; and in order to insure this, it is well to serve with the 



2/6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

soup croutons, prepared by cutting stale bread into small 
squares or cubes, and browning thoroughly in a moderate oven. 
•Put a spoonful or two of the croutons in each plate, and turn the 
hot soup over them. This plan also serves another purpose, — 
that of providing a means whereby the left-over bits of stale 
bread may be utilized to advantage. 

RECIPES. 

Asparagus Soup. — Wash two bunches of fresh asparagus carefully, 
and cut into small pieces. Put to cook in a quart of boiling water, and 
simmer gently till perfectly tender, when there should remain about a pint 
of the liquor. Turn into a colander, and rub all through except the hard 
portion. To a pint of asparagus mixture add salt and one cup of thin 
cream and a pint of milk ; boil up for a few minutes, and serve. 

Baked Bean Soup. — Soak a half pint of white beans over night. In 
the morning turn off the water, and place them in an earthen dish with 
two or two and one half quarts of boiling water ; cover and let them 
simmer in a moderate oven four or five hours. Also soak over night a 
tablespoonful of pearl tapioca in sufficient water to cover. When the 
beans are soft, rub through a colander, after which add the soaked 
tapioca, and salt if desired ; also as much powdered thyme as can be 
taken on the point of a penknife and sufficient water to make the soup 
of proper consistency if the water has mostly evaporated. Return to the 
oven, and cook one half hour longer. A little cream may be added just 
before serving. 

Bean and Corn Soup. — Cold boiled or stewed corn and cold baked 
beans form the basis of this soup. Take one pint of each, rub through a 
colander, add a slice of onion, three cups of boiling water or milk, and 
boil for ten minutes. Turn through the colander a second time to remove 
the onion and any lumps or skins which may remain. Season with salt 
and a half cup of cream. If preferred, the onion may be omitted. 

Bean and Hominy Soup. — Soak separately in cold water over night a 
cupful each of dry beans and hominy. In the morning, boil them together 
till both are perfectly tender and broken to pieces. Rub through a col- 
ander, and add sufficient milk to make three pints. Season with salt, 
and stir in a cup of whipped cream just before serving. Cold beans 
and hominy may be utilized for this soup. 

Bean and Potato Soup. — Soak a half pint of dry white beans over night ; 
in the morning drain and put to cook in boiling water. When tender, 
rub through a colander. Prepare sHced potato sufficient to make one 



SOUPS. 27; 

quart, cook in as small a quantity of water as possible, rub through a 
colander, and add to the beans. Add milk or water sufficient to make 
two quarts, and as much prepared thyme as can be taken on the point of 
a penknife, with salt to season. Boil for a few minutes, add a teacup of 
thin cream, and serve. 

Bean and Tomato Soup. — Take one pint of boiled or a little less of 
mashed beans, one pint of stewed tomatoes, and rub together through a col- 
ander. Add salt, a cup of thin cream, one half a cup of nicely steamed 
rice, and sufficient boiling water to make a soup of the proper consist- 
ency. Reheat and serve. 

Black Bean Soup. — Soak a pint of black beans over night in cold 
water. When ready to cook, put into two and one half quarts of fresh 
water, which should be boiling, and simmer until completely dissolved, 
adding more boiling water from time to time if needed. There should 
be about two quarts of all when done. Rub through a colander, add 
salt, a half cup of cream, and reheat. When hot, turn through a soup 
strainer, add two or more teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, and serve. 

Black Bean Soup No. 2. — Soak a pint of black beans in water over 
night. Cook in boiling water until tender, then rub through a colander. 
Add sufficient boiling water to make about two quarts in all. Add salt, 
and one half a small onion cut in slices to flavor. Turn into a double 
boiler and reheat. When sufficiently flavored, remove the onion with a 
skimmer, thicken the soup with two teaspoonfuls of browned flour, turn 
through the soup strainer, and serve. If desired, a half cup of cream may 
be added, and the onion flavor omitted. 

Bran Stock. — For every quart of stock desired, boil a cup of good 
wheat bran in three pints of water for two or three hours or until reduced 
one third. This stock may be made the base of a variety of palatable and 
nutritious soups by flavoring with different vegetables and seasoning with 
salt and cream. An excellent soup may be prepared by flavoring the 
stock with celery, or by the addition of a quantity of strained stewed 
tomato sufficient to disguise the taste of the stock. It is also valuable in 
giving consistence to soups, in the preparation of some of which it may be 
advantageously used in place of other liquid. 

Brown Sonp. — Simmer together two pints of sliced potatoes and one 
third as much of the thin brown shavings (not thicker than a silver dime) 
from the top of a loaf of whole-wheat bread, in one quart of water. The 
crust must not be burned or blackened, and must not include any of the 
soft portion of the loaf. When the potatoes are tender, mash all through 
a colander. Flavor with a cup of strained, stewed tomatoes, a little salt, 
and return to the fire ; when hot, add a half cup of cream, and boiling 
water to make the soup of proper consistency, and serve at once. If care 



2/^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

has been taken to prepare the crust as directed, this soup will have a 
brown color and a fine, pungent flavor exceedingly pleasant to the taste. 

Canned Green Pea Soup. — Rub a can of green peas through a colander 
to remove the skins. Add a pint of milk and heat to boiling. If too thin, 
thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in a very little cold milk. Season 
with salt and a half cup of cream. A small teaspoonful of white sugar 
may be added if desired. 

Green peas, instead of canned, may be used when procurable. When 
they have become a little too hard to serve alone, they can be used for 
soup, if thoroughly cooked. 

Canned Corn Soup. — Open a can of green corn, turn it into a granite- 
ware dish, and thoroughly mash with a potato-masher until each kernel is 
broken, then rub through a colander to remove the skins. Add sufficient 
rich milk to make the soup of the desired consistency, about one half pint 
for each pint can of corn will be needed. Season with salt, reheat, and 
serve. If preferred, a larger quantity of milk and some cream may be used, 
and the soup, when reheated, thickened with a little corn starch or flour. 
It may be turned through the colander a second time or not, as preferred. 

Carrot Soup. — For a quart of soup, slice one large carrot and boil in 
a small quantity of water for two hours or longer, then rub it through a 
colander, add a quart of rich milk, and salt to season. Reheat, and when 
boiling, thicken with two teaspoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little 
cold milk. 

Celery Soup. — Chop quite fine enough fresh, crisp celery to make a 
pint, and cook it until tender in a very little boiling water. When done, 
heat three cupfuls of rich milk, part cream if it can be afforded, to boihng, 
add the celery, salt to season, and thicken the whole with a tablespoon- 
ful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk ; or add to the milk before 
heating a cupful of mashed potato, turn through a colander to remove 
lumps, reheat, add salt and the celery, and serve. 

Celery Soup No. 2. — Cook in a double boiler a cupful of cracked 
wheat in three pints of water for three or four hours. Rub the wheat 
through a colander, add a cup of rich milk, and if needed, a little boiling 
water, and a small head of celery cut in finger lengths. Boil all together 
for fifteen or twenty minutes, until well flavored, remove the celery with 
a fork, add salt, and serve with or without the hard-boiled yolk of an egg 
in each soup plate. 

Chestnut Soup.— Shell and blanch a pint of Italian chestnuts, as di- 
rected on page 215, and cook in boiling milk until tender. Rub the nuts 
through a colander, add salt and sufficient milk and cream to make a 
soup of the proper consistency, reheat and serve. 



SOUPS. 279 

Combination Soup. — This soup is prepared from material already 
cooked, and requires two cups of cracked wheat, one and one half cups 
of Lima beans, one half cup of black beans, and one cup of stewed tomato. 
Rub the material together through a colander, adding, if needed, a little 
hot water to facilitate the sifting. Add boiling water to thin to the proper 
consistency, season with salt and if it can be afforded a little sweet cream, 
— the soup is, however, very palatable without the cream. 

Combination Sonp No. 2. — Take three and one half cups of mashed 
(Scotch) peas, one cup each of cooked rice, oatmeal, and hominy, and two 
cups of stewed tomato. Rub the material through a colander, add boiling 
water to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt, reheat, and add, 
just before serving, two cups of cooked macaroni. If preferred, a cup of 
cream may be used in place of the tomato, or both may be omitted. 

Anotber. — One half cup of cold mashed potato, one cup each of 
cooked pearl wheat, barley and dried peas. Rub all through a colander, 
add boiling milk to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt and 
a half cup of cream. 

Anotlier. — Take three cups of cooked oatmeal, two of mashed white 
beans, and one of stewed tomato. Rub the ingredients through a colan- 
der, add boiling milk to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt 
and a little cream. 

Cream Pea Soup. — Soak three fourths of a pint of dried Scotch peas 
over night in a quart of water. In the morning put to cook in boiling 
water, cover closely and let them simmer gently four or five hours, or 
until the peas are very tender and well disintegrated ; then rub through a 
colander to remove the skins. If the peas are very dry, add a little water 
or milk occasionally, to moisten them and facilitate the sifting. Just be- 
fore the peas are done, prepare potatoes enough to make a pint and a half, 
after being cut in thin slices. Cook the potatoes until tender in a small 
amount of water, and rub them through a colander. Add the potatoes 
thus prepared to the sifted peas, and milk enough to make three and one 
half pints in all. Return to the fire, and add a small head of celery cut 
in finger lengths, and let the whole simmer together ten or fifteen min- 
utes, until flavored. Remove the celery with a fork, add salt and a cup 
of thin cream. This should make about two quarts of soup. If pre- 
ferred, the peas may be cooked without soaking. It will, however, re- 
quire a little longer time. 

Cream Barley Soup. — Wash a cup of pearl barley, drain and simmer 
slowly in two quarts of water for four or five hours, adding boiling water 
from time to time as needed. When the barley is tender, strain off the 
liquor, of which there should be about three pints ; add to it a portion of 



28o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

the cooked barley grains, salt, and a cup of whipped cream, and serve. 
If preferred, the beaten yolk of an egg may be used instead of cream. 

Green Corn Soup. — Take six well-filled ears of tender green corn. Run 
a sharp knife down the rows and split each grain ; then with the back of 
a knife, scraping from the large to the small end of the ear, press out the 
pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob. Break the cobs if long, put them in 
cold water sufficient to cover, and boil half an hour. Strain off the water, 
of which there should be at least one pint. Put the corn water on again, 
and when boiling add the corn pulp, and cook fifteen minutes, or until the 
raw taste is destroyed. Rub through a rather coarse colander, add salt 
and a pint of hot unskimmed milk ; if too thin, thicken with a little corn- 
starch or flour, boil up, and serve. If preferred, a teaspoonful of sugar 
may be added to the soup. A small quantity of cooked macaroni, cut in 
rings, makes a veiy pretty and palatable addition to the soup. The soup 
is also excellent flavored with celery. 

Grreen Pea Soup. — Gently simmer two quarts of shelled peas in suffi- 
cient water to cook, leaving almost no juice when tender. Rub through a 
colander, moistening if necessary with a little cold milk. Add to the 
sifted peas an equal quantity of rich milk and a small onion cut in halves. 
Boil all together fiye or ten minutes until the soup is delicately flavored, 
then remove the onion with a skimmer ; add salt if desired, and serve. 
If preferred, a half cup of thin cream may be added just before serving. 
Celery may be used in place of the onion, or both may be omitted. 

Green Bean Soup. — Prepare a quart of fresh string beans by pulling 
off ends and strings and breaking into small pieces. Boil in a small 
quantity of water. If the beans are fresh and young, three pints will be 
sufficient ; if wilted or quite old, more will be needed, as they will require 
longer cooking. There should be about a teacupful and a half of liquid 
left when the beans are perfectly tender and boiled in pieces. Rub 
through a colander, return to the kettle, and for each cup of the bean 
pulp add salt, a cup and a half of unskimmed milk ; boil together for a 
few minutes, thicken with a little flour, and serve. The quart of beans 
should be sufficient for three pints of soup. 

Kornlet Soup. — Kornlet or canned green corn pulp, may be made into 
a most appetizing soup in a few minutes by adding to a pint of kornlet an 
equal quantity of rich milk, heating to boiling, and thickening it with a 
teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. 

Kornlet and Tomato Soup. — Put together equal quantities of kornlet 
and strained stewed tomato, season with salt and heat to boiling ; add for 
each quart one fourth to one half cup of hot thin cream, thicken with a 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water, and serve. Cooked 
corn rubbed through a colander may also be used for this soup. 



SOUPS. 281 

Lentil Soup. — Simmer a pint of lentils in water until tender. If de- 
sired to have the soup less dark in color and less strong in flavor, the len- 
tils may be first parboiled for a half hour, and then drained and put into 
fresh boiling water. Much valuable nutriment is thus lost, however. 
When perfectly tender, mash through a colander to remove all skins ; add 
salt and a cup of thin cream, and if too thick, sufficient boiling milk or 
water to thin to the proper consistency, heat again to boiling, and serve. 
If preferred, an additional quantity of liquid may be added and the soup 
slightly thickened with browned flour. 

Lentil and Parsni]) Soup. — Cook together one pint of lentils and one 
half a small parsnip, sliced, until tender in a small quantity of boiling 
water. When done, rub through a colander, and add boiling watar to 
make a soup of the proper consistency. Season with salt and if desired 
a little cream. 

Lima Bean Soup. — Simmer a pint of Lima beans gently in just suffi- 
cient water to cook and not burn, until they have fallen to pieces. Add 
more boiling water as needed. When done, rub the beans through a col- 
ander. Add rich milk or water to make of the proper consistency, 
and salt to season ; reheat and serve. White beans may be used in place 
of Lima beans, but they require more prolonged cooking. A heaping 
tablespoonful of pearl tapioca or sago previously soaked in cold water, 
may be added to the soup when it is reheated, if liked, and the whole 
cooked until the sago is transparent. 

Macaroni Soup. — Heat a quart of milk, to which has been added a 
tablespoonful of finely grated bread crust (the brown part only, from 
the top of the loaf) and a slice of onion to flavor, in a double boiler. 
When the milk is well flavored, remove the onion, turn through a col- 
ander, add salt, and thicken with two teaspoonfuls of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold milk. Lastly add one cupful of cooked maca-^ 
roni, and serve. 

Oatmeal Soup. — Put two heaping tablespoonfuls of oatmeal into a 
quart of boiling water, and cook in a double boiler for two hours or 
longer. Strain as for gruel, add salt if desired, and two or three stalks of 
celery broken into finger lengths, and cook again until the whole is well 
flavored with the celery, which may then be removed with a fork ; add a 
lialf cup of cream, and the soup is ready to serve. Cold oatmeal mush 
may be thinned with milk, reheated, strained, flavored, and made into 
soup the same as fresh material. A slice or two of onion may be used 
with the celery for flavoring the soup if desired, or a cup of strained 
stewed tomato may be added. 

Parsnip Soup. — Take a quart of well scraped, thinly sliced parnips, 
one cup of bread crust shavings (prepared as for Brown Soup), one head 



2<S2 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of celery, one small onion, and one pint of sliced potatoes. The parsnips 
used should be young and tender, so that they will cook in about the same 
length of time as the other vegetables. Use only sufficient water to cook 
them. When done, rub through a colander and add salt and sufficient 
rich milk, part cream if desired, to make of the proper consistency. 
Reheat and serve. 

Parsnip Soup No. 2. — Wash, pare, and slice equal quantities of par- 
snips and potatoes. Cook, closely covered, in a small quantity of water 
until soft. If the parsnips are not young and tender, they must be put to 
cook first, and the potatoes added when they are half done. Mash through 
a colander. Add salt, and milk to make of the proper consistency, season 
with cream, reheat and serve. 

Pea and Tomato Soup. — Soak one pint of Scotch peas over night. 
When ready to cook, put into a quart of boiling water and simmer slowly 
until quite dry and well disintegrated. Rub through a colander to remove 
the skins. Add a pint of hot water, one cup of mashed potato, two cups 
of strained stewed tomato, and one cup of twelve-hour cream. Turn 
into a double boiler and cook together for a half hour or longer ; turn a 
second time through a colander or soup strainer and serve. The pro- 
portions given are quite sufficient for two quarts of soup. There may 
need to be some variation in the quantity of tomato to be used, depend- 
ing upon its thickness. If very thin, a larger quantity and less water will 
be needed. The soup should be a rich reddish brown in color when done. 
The peas may be cooked without being first soaked, if preferred. 

Plain Rice Soup. — Wash and pick over six tablespoonfuls of rice, put 
it in an earthen dish with a quart of water, and place in a moderate oven. 
When the water is all absorbed, add a quart of rich milk, and salt if 
desired ; turn into a granite kettle and boil ten minutes, or till the rice is 
done. Add a half cup of sweet cream, and serve. A slice of onion or 
stalk of celery can be boiled with the soup after putting in the kettle, and 
removed before serving, if desired to flavor. 

Potato and Rice Soup. — Cook a quart of sliced potatoes in as little 
water as possible. When done, rub through a colander. Add salt, a quart 
of rich milk, and reheat. If desired, season with a slice of onion, a stalk 
of celery, or a little parsley. Just before serving, add a half cup of 
cream and a cup and a half of well-cooked lice with unbroken grains. 
Stir gently and serve at once. 

Potato Soup. — For each quart of soup required, cook a pint of sliced 
potatoes in sufficient water to cover them. When tender, rub through a 
colander. Return to the fire, and add enough rich, sweet milk, part cream 
if it can be afforded to make a quart in all, and a little salt. Let the 
soup come to a boil, and add a teaspoonful of flour or corn starch, rubbed 



SOUPS. 283 

to a paste with a little water : boil a few minutes, and serve. A cup and 
a half of cold mashed potato or a pint of sliced baked potato can be used 
instead of fresh material ; in which case add the milk and heat before 
rubbing through the colander. A slice of onion or a stalk of celery may 
be simmered in the soup for a few minutes to flavor it, and then removed 
with a skimmer or spoon. A good mixed potato soup is made b}' using one 
third sweet and two thirds Irish potatoes, in the same manner as above. 

Potato and Vcriiiicclli Soup. — Break up a cupful of vermicelli and drop 
it into boiling water. Let it cook for ten or fifteen minutes, and then 
turn into a colander to drain. Have ready a potato soup prepared the 
same as in the preceding ; stir the vermicelli lightly into it just before 
serving. 

Sag'o and Potato Soup. — Prepare the soup as directed for Potato Soup, 
from fresh or cold mashed potato, using a little larger quantity of milk or 
cream, as the sago adds thickness to the soup. When seasoned and ready 
to reheat, turn a second time through the colander, and add for each quart 
of soup, one heaping tablespoonful of sago which has been soaked for 
twenty minutes in just enough water to cover. Boil together five or ten 
minutes, or until the sago is transparent, and serve. 

Scotch Brotli. — Soak over night two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and 
one of coarse oatmeal, in water sufficient to cover them. In the morning, 
put the grains, together with the water in which they were soaked, into 
two quarts of water and simmer for several hours, adding boiling water 
as needed. About an hour before the soup is required, add a turnip cut 
into small dice, a grated carrot, and one half cup of fine pieces of the 
brown portion of the crust of a loaf of whole-wheat bread. Rub all 
through a colander, and add salt, a cup of milk, and a half cup of 
thin cream. This should make about three pints of soup. 

Split Pea Soup. — For each quart of soup desired, simmer a cupful of 
split peas very slowly in three pints of boiling water for six hours, or until 
thoroughly dissolved. When done, rub through a colander, add salt and 
season with one half cup of thin cream. Reheat, and when boiling, stir 
into it two teaspoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. 
Boil up until thickened, and serve. If preferred, the cream may be 
omitted and the soup flavored with a little celery or onion. 

Sweet Potato Soup. — To a pint of cold mashed sweet potato add a pint 
and a half of strained stewed tomato, rub together through a colander, add 
salt to season, and half a cup of cream. Reheat and serve. 

Swiss Potato Soup. — Pare and cut up into small pieces, enough white 
turnips to fill a pint cup, and cook in a small quantity of water. When 
tender, add three pints of sliced potatoes, and let them boil together until 
of the consistency of mush. Add hot water if it has boiled away so that 



284 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

there is not sufficient to cook the potatoes. When done, drain, rub through 
a colander, add a pint and a half of milk and a cup of thin cream, salt if 
desired, and if too thick, a little more milk or a sufficient quantity of hot 
water to make it of the proper consistency. This should be sufficient 
for two and a half quarts of soup. 

Swiss Lentil Soup. — Cook a pint of brown lentils in a small quantity of 
boiling water. Add to the lentils when about half done, one medium sized 
onion cut in halves or quarters. When the lentils are tender, remove the 
onion with a fork, and rub the lentils through a colander. Add sufficient 
boiling water to make three pints in all. Season with salt, reheat to boil- 
ing, and thicken the whole with four tablespoonfuls of browned flour, 
rubbed to a cream in a little cold water. 

Tomato and Macaroni Soup. — Break a half dozen sticks of macaroni into 
small pieces, and drop into boiling water. Cook for an hour, or until per- 
fectly tender. Rub two quarts of stewed or canned tomatoes through a 
colander, to remove all seeds and fragments. When the macaroni is done, 
drain thoroughly, cut each piece into tiny rings, and add it to the strained 
tomatoes. Season with salt, and boil for a few minutes. If desired, 
just before serving add a cup of thin cream, boil up once, and serve im- 
mediately. If the tomato is quite thin, the soup should be slightly thick- 
ened with a little flour before adding the macaroni. 

Tomato Cream Soup. — Heat two quarts of strained, stewed tomatoes 
to boiling ; add four tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a Uttle cold 
water. Let the tomatoes boil until thickened, stirring constantly that no 
lumps form ; add salt to season. Have ready two cups of hot rich milk 
or thin cream. Add the cream or milk hot, and let all boil together for a 
minute or two, then serve. 

Tomato and Olira Soup. — Take one quart of okra thinly sliced, and 
two quarts of sliced tomatoes. Simmer gently from one to two hours. Rub 
through a colander, heat again to boiling, season with salt and cream if 
desired, and serve. 

Canned okra and tomatoes need only to be rubbed through a colander, 
scalded and seasoned, to make a most excellent soup. If preferred, 
one or two potatoes may be sliced and cooked, rubbed through a colan- 
der, and added. 

Tomato Soup with Vermicelli. — Cook a cupful of broken vermicelli in 
a pint of boiling water for ten minutes. Turn into a colander to drain. - 
Have boiling two quarts of strained, stewed tomatoes, to which add the 
vermicelli. If preferred, the tomato may be thickened slightly with a 
little cornstarch rubbed smooth in cold water before adding the vermi- 
celli. Salt to taste, and just before serving turn in a cup of hot, thin 
cream. Let all boil up for a moment, then serve at once. 



SOUPS. 285 

Vegretable Oyster Soiii). — Scrape all the outer covering and small root- 
lets from vegetable oysters, and lay them in a pan of cold water to pre- 
vent discoloration. The scraping can be done much easier if the roots 
are allowed first to stand in cold water for an hour or so. Slice rather 
thin, enough to make one quart, and put to cook in a quart of water. Let 
them boil slowly until very tender. Add a pint of milk, a cup of thin 
cream, salt, and when boiling, a tablespoonful or two of flour, rubbed 
to a cream with a little milk. Let the soup boil a few minutes until thick- 
ened, and serve. 

Vegetable Soup. — Simmer together slowly for three or four hours, in 
five quarts of water, a quart of split peas, a slice of carrot, a slice of 
white turnip, one cup of canned tomatoes, and two stalks of celery cut 
into small bits. When done, rub through a colander, add milk to make of 
proper consistency, reheat, season with salt and cream, and serve. 

Vegretable Soup No. 2. — Prepare and slice a pint of vegetable oysters 
and a pint and a half of potatoes. Put the oysters to cook first, in suffi- 
cient water to cook both. When nearly done, add the potatoes and cook 
all till tender. Rub through a colander, or if preferred, remove the pieces 
of oysters, and rub the potato only through the colander, together with 
the water in which the oysters were cooked, as that will contain all the 
flavor. Return to the fire, and add salt, a pint of strained, stewed toma- 
toes, and when boiling, the sliced oysters if desired, a cup of thin cream 
and a cup of milk, both previously heated ; serve at once'. 

Veg'etable Soup No. 3. — Soak a cupful of white beans over night in 
cold water. When ready to cook, put into fresh boiling water and simmer 
until tender. When nearly done, add three large potatoes sliced, two or 
three slices of white turnip, and one large parsnip cut in slices. When 
done, rub through a colander, add milk or water to make of proper con- 
sistency, season with salt and cream, reheat and serve. This quantity of 
material is sufficient for two quarts of soup. 

Vegetable Soup No. 4. — Prepare a quart of bran stock as previously 
directed. Heat to boiling, and add to it one teaspoonful of grated carrot, 
a slice of onion, and a half cup of tomato. Cook together in a double 
boiler for half an hour. Remove the slice of onion, and add salt and a 
half cup of turnip previously cooked and cut in small dice. 

Velvet Soup. — Pour three pints of hot potato soup, seasoned to taste, 
slowly over the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring briskly to mix the 
egg perfectly with the soup. It must not be reheated after adding the egg. 
Plain rice or barley soup may be used in place of potato soup, if preferred. 

Vermicelli Soup. — Lightly fill a cup with broken vermicelli. Turn it 
into a pint of boiling water, and cook for ten or fifteen minutes. Drain 
oft all the hot water and put into cold water for a few minutes. Turn into 



286 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

a colander and drain again ; add three pints of milk, salt to taste, and heat 
to boiling. Have the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and when the soup is 
boiling, turn it gradually onto the eggs, stirring briskly that they may not 
curdle. Return to the kettle, reheat nearly to boiling, and serve at once. 

Vermicelli Soup No. 2. — Cook a cupful of sliced vegetable oysters, 
a stalk or two of celery, two slices of onion, a parsnip, and half a carrot 
in water just sufficient to cover well. Meanwhile put a cupful of vermi- 
celli in a quart of milk and cook in a double boiler until tender. When the 
vegetables are done, strain off the broth and add it to the vermicelli 
when cooked. Season with salt and a cup of cream. Beat two eggs light 
and turn the boiling soup on the eggs, stirring briskly that they may not 
curdle. Reheat if not thickened, and serve. 

White Celery Soup. — Cut two heads of celery into finger lengths, and 
simmer in a quart of milk for half an hour. Remove the piecfes of celery 
with a skimmer. Thicken the soup with a tablespoonful of cornstarch 
braided with a little milk, add salt if desired, and a teacup of whipped 
cream. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Soup rejoices the stomach, and disposes it to receive and digest other food. — 
Br ilia t Savarin. 

To work the head, temperance must be carried into the diet. — Beecher. 

To fare well implies the partaking of such food as does not disagree with body or 
mind. Hence only those fare well who live temperately. — Socrates. 

The aliments to which the cook's art gives a liquid or semi-liquid form, are in 
general more digestible. — Dictionaire de Medicine. 

In the most heroic days of the Grecian army, their food was the plain and simple 
produce of the soil. When the public games of ancient Greece were first instituted, 
the athletce, in accordance with the common dietetic habits of the people, were trained 
entirely on vegetable food. 

The eating of much flesh fills us with a multitude of evil diseases and multitudes 
of evil desires. — Forfhyrises, sjj A. D. 

No flocks that range the valley free 

To slaughter I condemn ; 

Taught by the Power that pities me, 

I learn to pity them. 

But from the mountain's grassy side 

A guiltless feast I bring ; 

A scrip with herbs and fruits supplied, 

And water from the spring. — Goldsmith. 




GOOD breaKiast is the best capital upon which people 
WflM^J who have real work to do in the world can begin the 
si'/wi ^sy- ^^ th^ food is well selected and well cooked, it 
^s?|;s^ furnishes both cheer and strength for their daily tasks. 
Poor food, or good food poorly prepared, taxes the digestive 
powers more than is due, and consequently robs brain and 
nerves of vigor. Good food is not rich food, in the common 
acceptation of the term ; it is such food as furnishes the requi- 
site nutriment with the least fatigue to the digestive powers. 
It is of the best material, prepared in the best manner, and 
with pleasant variety, though it may be very simple. 

" What to get for breakfast " is one of the most puzzling 
problems which the majority of housewives have to solve. 
The usually limited time for its preparation requires that it 
be something easily and quickly prepared ; and health de- 
mands that the bill of fare be of such articles as require but 
minimum time for digestion, that the stomach may have 
chance for rest after the process of digestion is complete, 
before the dinner hour. The custom of using fried potatoes 
or mushes, salted fish or meats, and other foods almost im- 

[287] 



288 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

possible of digestion, for breakfast dishes, is most pernicious. 
These foods set completely at variance all laws of breakfast 
hygiene. They are very difficult of digestion, and the thirst- 
provoking quality of salted foods makes them an important 
auxiliary to the acquirement of a love of intoxicating drinks. 
We feel very sure that, as a prominent temperance writer says, 
" It very often happens that women who send out their loved 
ones with an agony of prayer that they may be kept from drink 
for the day, also send them with a breakfast that will make 
them almost frantic with thirst before they get to the first 
saloon." 

The foods composing the breakfast menu should be simple 
in character, well and delicately cooked, and neatly served. 
Fruits and grains and articles made from them offer the requi- 
sites for the ideal breakfast. These afford ample provision for 
variety, are easily made ready, and easily digested, while at 
the same time furnishing excellent nutriment in ample quan- 
tity and of the very best quality. Meats, most vegetables, and 
compound dishes, more difficult of digestion, are better reserved 
for the dinner bill s of fare. No vegetable except the potato 
is especially serviceable as a breakfast food, and it is much 
more readily digested when baked than when prepared in any 
other manner. Stewing requires less time for preparation, but 
about one hour longer for digestion. 

As an introduction to the morning meal, fresh fruits are 
most desirable, particularly the juicy varieties, as oranges, 
grape fruit, melons, grapes, and peaches, some one of which 
are obtainable nearly the entire year. Other fruits ; as apples, 
bananas, pears, etc., -though less suitable, may be used for the 
same purpose. They are, however, best accompanied with 
wafers or some hard food, to insure their thorough mastication. 

For the second course, some of the various cereals, oatmeal, 
rye, corn, barley, rice, or one of the numerous preparations 
of wheat, well cooked and served with cream, together with 
one or more unfermented breads (recipes for which have been 
given in a previous chapter), cooked fruits, and some simple rel- 
ishes, are quite sufficient for a healthful and palatable breakfast. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 289 

If, however, a more extensive bill of fare is desired, numer- 
ous delicious and appetizing toasts may be prepared according 
to the recipes given in this chapter, and which, because of their 
simple character and the facility with which they can be pre- 
pared, are particularly suitable as breakfast dishes. The foun- 
dation of all these toasts is zivieback, or twice-baked bread, 
prepared from good whole-wheat or Graham fermented bread 
cut in uniform slices not more than a half inch thick, each slice 
being divided in halves, placed on tins, or what is better, the 
perforated sheets recommended for baking rolls, and baked or 
toasted in a slow oven for a half hour or longer, until it is 
browned evenly throughout the entire slice. The zwieback 
may be prepared in considerable quantity and kept on hand in 
readiness for use. It will keep for any length of time if stored 
in a dry place. 

Stale bread is the best for making zwieback, but it should be 
good, light bread ; that which is sour, heavy, and not fit to eat 
untoasted, should never be used. Care must be taken also not 
to scorch the slices, as once scorched, it is spoiled. Prop- 
erly made, it is equally crisp throughout, and possesses a 
delicious, nutty flavor. 

Its preparation affords an excellent opportunity for using 
the left-over slices of bread, and it may be made when the 
oven has been heated for other purposes, as after the baking of 
bread, or even during the ordinary, cooking, with little or no 
additional heat. If one possesses an Aladdin oven, it can be 
prepared to perfection. 

Zwieback may also be purchased in bulk, all ready for use, 
at ten cents a pound, from the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle 
Creek, Mich., and it is serviceable in so many ways that it 
should form a staple article of food in every household. 

For the preparation of toasts, the zwieback must be first 
softened with some hot liquid, preferably thin cream. Heat 
the cream (two thirds of a pint of cream will be sufficient for 
six half slices) nearly to boiling in some rather shallow dish. 
Put the slices, two or three at a time, in it, dipping the cream 
over them and turning so that both sides will become equally 
19 



290 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Softened. Keep the cream hot, and let the slices remain until 
softened just enough so that the center can be pierced with a 
fork, but not until at all mushy or broken. With two forks or 
a fork and a spoon, remove each slice from the hot cream, 
draining as thoroughly as possible, and pack in a heated dish, 
and repeat the process until as much zwieback has been 
softened as desired. Cover the dish, and keep hot until ready 
to serve. Special care should be taken to drain the slices as 
thoroughly as possible, that none of them be wet and mushy. 
It is better to remove them from the cream when a little hard 
than to allow them to become too soft, as they will soften 
somewhat by standing, after being packed in the dish. Prepare 
the sauce for the toast at the same time or before softening 
the slices, and pour into a pitcher for serving. Serve the 
slices in individual dishes, turning a small quantity of the 
hot sauce over each as served. 

REC/PES. 

Apple Toast. — Fresh, nicely flavored apples stewed in a small quan- 
tit}^ of water, rubbed through a colander, sweetened, then cooked in a 
granite-ware dish in a slow oven until quite drj^ make a nice dressing for 
toast. Baked sweet or sour apples rubbed through a colander to re- 
move cores and skins, are also excellent. Soften slices of zwieback in 
hot cream, and serve with a spoonful or two on each slice. If desired, 
the apple may be flavored with a little pineapple or lemon, or mixed with 
grape, cranberry, or apricot, thus making a number of different toasts. 

Apricot Toast. — Stew some nice dried apricots as directed on page 191. 
When done, rub through a fine colander to remove all skins and to render 
them homogeneous. Add sugar to sweeten, and serve as a dressing on 
slices of zwieback which have been previously softened in hot cream. 
One half or two thirds fresh or dried apples may be used with the 
apricots, if preferred. 

Asparag'iis Toast. — Prepare asparagus as directed on page 255. When 
tender, drain off the liquor and season it with a little cream, and salt if 
desired. Moisten nicely browned zwieback in the liquor and lay in a hot 
dish ; unbind the asparagus, heap it upon the toast, and serve. 

Bauaua Toast. — Peel and press some nice bananas through a colan- 
der. This may be very easily done with a potato masher, or if preferred 
a vegetable press may be used for the purpose. Moisten shces of zwie- 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 29I 

back with hot cream and serve with a large spoonful of the banana pulp 
on each slice. Fresh peaches may be prepared and used on the toast in 
the same way. 

Berry Toast. — Canned strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries may 
be made into an excellent dressing for toast. 

Turn a can of well-kept berries into a colander over an earthen dish, 
to separate the juice from the berries. Place the juice in a porcelain ket- 
tle and heat to boiling. Thicken to the consistency of cream with flour 
rubbed smooth in a little water ; a tablespoonful of flour to the pint of juice 
will be about the right proportion. Add the berries and boil up just sufifi- 
ciently to cook the flour and heat the berries ; serve hot. If cream for 
moistening the zwieback is not obtainable, a little juice may be reserved 
without thickening, and heated in another dish to moisten the toast ; or if 
preferred, the fruit may be heated and poured over the dry zwieback with- 
out being thickened, or it may be rubbed through a colander as for Apri- 
cot Toast. 

Berry Toast No. 2. — Take fresh red or black raspberries, blueberries, 
or strawberries, and mash well with a spoon. Add sugar to sweeten, and 
serve as a dressing on slices of zwieback previously moistened with hot 
cream. 

Celery Toast. — Cut the crisp white portion of celery into inch pieces, 
simmer twenty minutes or half an hour, or until tender, in a very little 
water ; add salt and a cup of rich milk. Heat to boiling, and thicken 
with a little flour rubbed smooth in a small quantity of milk — a teaspoon- 
ful of flour to the pint of liquid. Serve hot, poured over slices of zwie- 
back previously moistened with cream or hot water. 

Cream Toast. — For this use good Graham or whole-wheat zwieback. 
Have a pint of thin sweet cream scalding hot, salt it a little if desired, 
and moisten the zwieback in it as previously directed packing it imme- 
diately into a hot dish ; cover tightly so that the toast may steam, and 
serve. The slices should be thoroughly moistened, but not soft and 
mushy nor swimming in cream ; indeed, it is better if a little of the 
crispness still remains. 

Cream Toast with Poached Egg. — Prepare the cream toast as pre- 
viously directed, and serve hot with a well-poached egg on each slice. 

Cherry Toast. — Take a quart of ripe cherries; stem, wash, and stew 
(if preferred the stones may be removed) until tender but not broken ; add 
sugar to sweeten, and pour over slices of well-browned dry toast or zwie- 
back. Serve cold. 

Gravy Toast.— Heat a quart and a cupful of rich milk to boiling, add 
salt, and stir into it three scant tablespoonfuls of flour which has been 
rubbed to a smooth paste in a little cold milk. This quantity will be 



292 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

sufficient for about a dozen slices of toast. Moisten slices of zwieback 
with hot water and pack in a heated dish. When serving, pour a quan- 
tity of the cream sauce over each slice. 

Dry Toast with Hot Cream. — Nicely prepared zwieback served in hot 
saucers with hot cream poured over each slice at the table, makes a most 
delicious breakfast dish. 

Glrape Toast. — Stem well-ripened grapes, wash well, and scald with- 
out water in a double boiler until broken ; rub through a colander to 
remove seeds and skins, and when cool, sweeten to taste. If the toast 
is desired for breakfast, the grapes should be prepared the day previous. 
Soften the toast in hot cream, as previously directed, and pack in a 
tureen. Heat the prepared grapes and serve, pouring a small quantity 
over each slice of toast. Canned grapes may be used instead of fresh 
ones, if desired. 

Lentil Toast. — Lentils stewed as directed for Lentil Gravy on page 
226, served as a dressing on slices of zwieback moistened with hot cream 
or water, makes a very palatable toast. Browned flour may be used to 
thicken the dressing if preferred. 

Prune Toast. — Cook prunes as directed on page 191, allowing them to 
simmer very slowly for a long time. When done, rub through a colander, 
and if quite thin, they should be stewed again for a time, until they are 
about the consistency of marmalade. Moisten slices of zwieback with hot 
cream, and serve with a spoonful or two of the prune dressing on each. 
One third dried apple may be used with the prune, if preferred. 

Peach Toast. — Stew nice fresh peaches in a small quantity of water ; 
when tender, rub through a colander, and if quite juicy, place on the back 
of the range where they will cook very slowly until nearly all the water has 
evaporated, and the peach is of the consistency of marmalade. Add sugar 
to sweeten, and serve the same as prunes, on slices of zwieback previously 
moistened with hot cream. Canned peaches may be drained from their 
juice and prepared in the same manner. Dried or evaporated peaches 
may also be used. Toast with dried-peach dressing will be more delicate 
in flavor if one third dried apples be used with the peaches. 

Snowflake Toast. — Heat to boiling a quart of milk to which a half cup 
of cream and a little salt have been added. Thicken with a tablespoon- 
ful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Have I'eady the whites 
of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; and when the sauce is well cooked, turn 
a cupful of it on the beaten egg, stirring well meanwhile so that it will form 
a light, frothy mixture, to which add the remainder of the sauce. If the 
sauce is not sufficiently hot to coagulate the albumen, it may be heated 
again almost to the boiling point, but should not be allowed to boil. Tlie 
sauce should be of a light, frothy consistency throughout. Serve as 
dressing on nicely moistened slices of zwieback. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 293 

Tomato Toast. — Moisten slices of zwieback in hot cream, and serve 
with a dressing prepared by heating a pint of strained stewed tomato to 
boiling, and thickening with a tablespoonful of corn starch or flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold water. Season with salt and a half cupful of hot 
cream. The cream may be omitted, if preferred. 

Vegetable Oyster Toast. — Cook a quart of cleaned, sliced vegetable 
oysters in a quart of water until very tender ; add a pint and a half of 
rich milk, salt to taste, and thicken the whole with two tablespoonfuls of 
flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a little milk. Let it boil for a few 
minutes, and serve as a dressing on slices of well-browned toast previ- 
ously moistened with hot water or cream. 

MfSCELLANEOUS BREAKFAST DISHES. 

Brewis. — Heat a pint of rich milk to boiling, remove from the fire, 
and beat into it thoroughly and quickly a cup of very fine stale rye or 
Graham bread crumbs. Serve at once with cream. 

Blackberry Mush. — Rub a pint of canned or freshly stewed and sweet- 
ened blackberries, having considerable juice, through a fine colander or 
sieve to remove the seeds. Add water to make a pint and a half cupful 
in all, heat to boiling, and sprinkle into it a cupful of sifted Graham flour, 
or sufficient to make a mush of the desired thickness. Cook as directed 
for Graham Mush, page 90. Serve hot with cream. 

Dry (jranola. — This prepared food, made from wheat, corn, and oats, 
and obtainable from the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., forms 
an excellent breakfast dish eaten with cold or hot milk or cream. Wheat- 
ena, prepared wholly from wheat ; Avenola, made from oats and wheat ; 
and Gofio, made from parched grains, all obtainable from the same firm, 
are each delicious and suitable foods for the morning meal. 

Frumenty. — Wash well a pint of best wheat, and soak for twenty-four 
hours in water just sufficient to cover. Put the soaked wheat in a covered 
earthen baking pot or jar, cover well with water, and let it cook in a very 
slow oven for twelve hours. This may be done the day before it is 
wanted, or if one has a coal range in which a fire may be kept all night, 
or an Aladdin oven, the grain may be started in the evening and cooked at 
night. When desired for use, put in a saucepan with three pints of milk, 
a cupful of well-washed Zante currants, and one cup of seeded raisins. 
Boil together for a few minutes, thicken with four tablespoonfuls of flour 
rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and serve. 

Macaroni with Raisins. — Break macaroni into inch lengths sufficient 
to fill a half-pint cup. Heat four cups of milk, and when actively boil- 
ing, put in the macaroni and cook until tender. Pour boiling water over 
a half cup of raisins, and let them stand until swelled. Ten or fifteen 



294 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

minutes before the macaroni is done, add the raisins. Serve hot with or 
without the addition of cream. Macaroni cooked in the various ways as 
directed in the chapter on Grains, is also suitable for breakfast dishes. 

Macaroni with Kornlet. — Break macaroni into inch lengths and cook 
in boiling milk and water. Prepare the kornlet by adding to it an equal 
quantity of rich milk or thin cream, and thickening with a little flour, a 
tablespoonful to the pint. When done, drain the macaroni, and add the 
kornlet in the proportion of a pint of kornlet mixture to one and one 
half cups of macaroni. Mix well, turn into an earthen dish, and brown 
in a moderate oven. Left-over kornlet soup, if kept on ice, may be 
utilized for this breakfast dish, and the macaroni may be cooked the day 
before. Green corn pulp may be used in place of the kornlet. 

Peach Mush. — Prepare the same as Blackberry Mush using very thin 
peach sauce made smooth by rubbing through a colander. Freshly 
stewed or canned peaches or nicely cooked dried peaches are suitable 
for this purpose. Apples and grapes may be likewise used for a break- 
fast mush. 

Rice with Lemon. — Wash a cup of rice and turn it into three pints of 
boiling water, let it boil vigorously until tender, and turn into a colander 
to drain. While still in the colander and before the rice has become at 
all cold, dip quickly in and out of a pan of cold water several times 
to separate the grains, draining well afterward. All should be done so 
quickly that the rice will not become too cold for serving ; if necessary to 
reheat, place for a few moments in a dish in a steamer over a kettle of 
boiling water. Serve with a dressing of lemon previously prepared by 
cutting two fresE lemons in thin, wafer-like slices, sprinkling each thickly 
with sugar, and allowing them to stand for an hour or more until a syrup 
is formed. When the rice is ready to serve, lay the slices of lemon on 
top of it, pouring the syrup over it, and serve with a slice or two of the 
lemon for each dish. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The lightest breakfast is the best. — Oswald. 

A New Name for Breakfast. — "Turn, mamma, leth's go down to tupper," 
said a little toddler to her mother, one morning, recently. 

" Why, we don't have supper in the morning," replied the mother. 

" Den leth's do down to dinner, ' urged the little one. 

" But we do n't have dinner in the morning," corrected the mother. 

" Well, den, leth's do down any way," pleaded the child. 

" But try and think what meal we have in the morning," urged mamma. 

"I know," said the toddler, brightening up. 

" What meal do we have in the morning ?" 

" Oatmeal. Tum on ; leth's do." — Sel. 

Seneca, writing to a friend of his frugal fare which he declares does not cost a 
sixpence a day, says : — 

"Do you ask if that can supply due nourishment ? Yes ; and pleasure too. Not 
indeed, that fleeting and superficial pleasure which needs to be perpetually recruited, 
but a solid and substantial one. Bread and polenta certainly is not luxurious feeding, 
but it is no little advantage to be able to receive pleasure from a simple diet of which 
no change of fortune can deprive one." 

Breakfast ! Come to breakfast ! 
Little ones and all, — 
How their merry footsteps 
Patter at the call ! 
Break the bread ; pour freely 
Milk that cream-like flows ; 
A blessing on their appetites 
And on their lips of rose. 

Dinner may be pleasant, 

So may the social tea. 

But yet, methinks the breakfast 

Is best of all the three. 

With its greeting smile of welcome, 

Its holy voice of prayer, 

It forgeth heavenly armor 

To foil the hosts of care. — Mrs. Sigourney. 

Health is not quoted in the markets because it is without price. — Sel 

It is a mistake to think that the more a man eats, the fatter and stronger he will 
become. — Sel. 

[295] 




Y^^MlUSTOM has so long established the usage of finishing 
^ijjfe. the dinner with a dessert of some kind, that a menu is 

\\W ... 

AWyji considered quite incomplete without it ; and we shall 
^0\ devote the next few pages to articles which may be 
deemed appropriate and healthful desserts, not because we 
consider the dessert itself of paramount importance, for in- 
deed we do not think it essential to life or even to good living, 
but because we hope the hints and suggestions which our space 
permits, may aid the housewife in preparing more wholesome, 
inexpensive dishes in lieu of the indigestible articles almost 
universally used for this purpose. 

We see no objection to the use of a dessert, if the articles 
offered are wholesome, and are presented before an abundance 
has already been taken. As usually served, the dessert is but 
a "snare and delusion" to the digestive organs. Compounded 
of substances " rich," not in food elements, but in fats, sweets, 
and spices, and served after enough has already been eaten, it 
offers a great temptation to overeat ; while the elements of 
which it is largely composed, serve to hamper the digestive or- 
[296! 



DESSERTS. 297 

gans, to clog the liver, and to work mischief generally. At the 
same time it may be remarked that the preparation of even 
wholesome desserts requires an outlay of time and strength 
better by far expended in some other manner. Desserts are 
quite unnecessary to a good, heathful, nutritious dietary. The 
simplest of all desserts are the various nuts and delicious fruits 
with which nature has so abundantly supplied us, at no greater 
cost than their harmful substitutes, and which require no ex- 
penditure of time or strength in their preparation. If, how- 
ever, other forms of dessert are desired, a large variety may be 
prepared in a simple manner, so as to be both pleasing and 
appetizing. 

GENERAL SUGGEvSTIONS. 

In the preparation of desserts, as in that of all other foods 
it is essential that all material used shall be thoroughly good oi 
its kind. If bread is to be used, the crumbs should be dry and 
rather stale, but on no account use that which is sour or moldy, 
Some housekeepers imagine that if their bread happens to spoil 
and become sour, although it is hardly palatable enough for the 
table, it may be advantageously used to make puddings. It is 
indeed quite possible to combine sour bread with other ingre- 
dients so as to make a pudding agreeable to the palate ; but 
disguising sour bread by sweets and flavors by no means 
changes it into a wholesome food. It is better economy to 
throw sour bread away at once than to impose it upon the 
digestive organs at the risk of health and strength. 

Bread which has begun to show appearance of mold should 
never be used ; for mold is a poison, and very serious illness has 
resulted from the eating of puddings made from moldy bread. 

Eggs, to be used for desserts, should always be fresh and 
good. Cooks often imagine that an egg too stale to be eaten 
in any other way will do very well for use in cakes and pud- 
dings, because it can be disguised so as not to be apparent to 
the taste ; but stale eggs are unfit for food, either alone or in 
combination with other ingredients. Their use is often the 
occasion of serious disturbances of the digestive organs. Most 



298 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

desserts in which eggs are used will be much lighter if the 
yolks and whites are beaten separately. If in winter, and eggs 
are scarce, fewer may be used, and two tablespoonfuls of dry 
snow for each omitted egg stirred in the last thing before 
baking. 

Milk, likewise, should always be sweet and fresh. If it is to 
be heated, use a double boiler, so that there will be no danger 
of scorching. If fresh milk is not available, the condensed 
milk found at the grocer's is an excellent substitute. Dissolve 
according to directions, and follow the recipe the same as with 
fresh milk, omitting one half or two thirds the given amount 
of sugar. 

If dried sweet fruits, raisins, or currants are to be used, look 
them over carefully, put them into a colander, and placing it in 
a pan of warm water, allow the currants to remain until plump. 
This will loosen the dirt which, while they are shriveled, sticks 
in the creases, and they may then be washed by dipping the 
colander in and out of clean water until they are free from sedi- 
ment ; rinse in two waters, then spread upon a cloth, and let 
them get perfectly dry before using. 

It is a good plan, after purchasing raisins and currants, to 
wash and dry a quantity, and store in glass cans ready for use. 
To facilitate the stoning of raisins, put them into a colander 
placed in a dish of warm water until plump"; then drain, when 
the seeds can be easily removed. 

For desserts which are to be molded, always M^et the molds 
in cold water before pouring in the desserts. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR FLAVORING, ETC. 

To Prepare Almond Paste. — Blanch the nuts according to directions 
given on page 215. Allow them to dry thoroughly, and pound in a mor- 
tar to a smooth paste. They can be reduced much easier if dried for a 
day or two after blanching. During the pounding, sprinkle with a few 
drops of cold water, white of egg, rose water, or lemon juice, to prevent 
them from oiling. 

Cocoaimt Flavor. — Cocoanut, freshly grated or desiccated, unless in 
extremely fine particles, is a very indigestible substance, and when its 



DESSERTS. 299 

flavor is desired for custards, puddings, etc., it is always better to steep 
a few tablespoonfuls in a pint of milk for twenty minutes or a half hour, 
and strain out the particles. The milk should not be allowed to boil, as 
it will be likely to curdle. One tablespoonful of freshly grated cocoanut 
or two of the desiccated will give a very pleasant and delicate flavor ; and 
if a more intense flavor is desired, use a larger quantity. 

Orangre and Lemon Flavor. — Orange or lemon flavor may be obtained 
by steeping a few strips of the yellow part of the rind of lemon or orange 
in milk for twenty minutes. Skim out the rind before using for desserts. 
Care should be taken to use only the yellow part, as the white will impart 
a bitter flavor. The grated rind may also be used for flavoring, but in 
grating the peel, one must be careful to grate very lightly, and thus use 
only the outer yellow portion, which contains the essential oil of the fruit. 
Grate evenly, turning and working around the lemon, using as small a 
surface of the grater as possible, in order to prevent waste. Generally, 
twice across the grater and back will be sufficient for removing all the 
yellow skin from one portion of the lemon. A well-grated lemon should 
be of exactly the same shape as before, with no yellow skin remaining, 
and no deep scores into the white. Remove the yellow pulp from the 
grater with a fork. 

To Color Sugar. — For ornamenting the meringues of puddings and 
other desserts, take a little of the fresh juice of cranberries, red rasp- 
berries, currants, black raspberries, grapes, or other colored juices of 
fruits, thicken it stiff with the sugar, spread on a plate to dry, or use 
at once. It may be colored yellow with orange peel strained through a 
cloth, or green with the juice of spinach. Sugar prepared in this man- 
ner is quite as pretty and much more wholesome than the colored sugars 
found in market, which are often prepared with poisonous chemicals, 

FRUIT DESSERTS. 

REC/PES. 

Apple Dessert. — Pare some large tart apples, remove the cores, put 
into the cavities a little quince jelly, lemon flavored sugar, or grated 
pineapple and sugar, according to the flavor desired. Have as many 
squares of bread with the crust taken off as there are apples, and place 
a filled apple on each piece of bread, on earthen pie plates ; moisten 
well with a little quince jelly dissolved in water, lemon juice, or pine- 
apple juice, according to the filling used. Cover closely, and bake in a 
rather quick oven till the apples are tender. Serve with whipped cream 
aud sugar. 



300 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Apple Mering'ue Dessert. — Pare and core enough tart, easy-cooking 
apples to make a quart when stewed. Cover closely and cook slowly till 
perfectly tender, when they should be quite dry. Mash through a colan- 
der, add a little sugar and a little grated pineapple or lemon peel. Beat 
light with a silver fork, turn into a pudding dish, and brown in a mod- 
erate oven ten or fifteen minutes. Then cover with a meringue made 
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the beaten whites of two eggs, and 
return to the oven for a moment to brown. Serve cold. 

Apple Rose Cream. — Wash, core, slice, and cook without paring, a 
dozen fresh snow apples until ver}^ dry. When done, rub through a 
colander to remove the skins, add sugar to sweeten, and the whites of 
two eggs ; beat vigorously with an egg beater until stiff, add a tea- 
spoonful of rose water for flavoring, and serve at once, or keep on ice. 
It is especially important that the apples be very dry, otherwise the 
cream will not be light. If after rubbing through the colander, there is 
still much juice, they should be cooked again until it has evaporated ; 
or they may be turned into a jelly bag and drained. Other varieties 
of apple may be used, and flavored with pineapple or vanilla. Made 
as directed of snow apples or others with white flesh and red skins, the 
cream should be of a delicate pink color, making a very dainty as well 
as delicious dessert. 

Apple Snow. — Pare and quarter some nice tart apples. Those that 
when cooked will be whitest in color are best. Put them into a china 
dish, and steam until tender over a kettle of boiling water. When done, 
rub through a colander or beat with a fork until smooth, add sugar to 
sweeten and a little grated lemon rind, and beat again. For every cup 
and a half of the prepared apple allow the white of one egg, which beat 
to a stiff froth, adding the apple to it a little at a time, beating all together 
until, when taken up in a spoon, it stands quite stiff. Serve cold, with or 
without a simple custard prepared with a pint of hot milk, a tablespoonful 
of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. 

Baked Apples with Cream. — Pare some nice juicy sweet apples, and 
remove the cores without dividing. Bake until tender in a covered dish 
with a spoonful or two of water on the bottom. Serve with whipped 
cream. Or, bake the apples without paring, and when done, remove 
the skins, and serve in the same manner. The cream may be flavored 
with a little lemon or rose if desired. Lemon apples and Citron apples, 
prepared as directed on pages i86 and 187, make a most delicious dessert 
served with whipped cream and sugar, or with mock cream flavored with 
cocoanut. 

Baked Sweet Apple Dessert. — Wash and remove the cores from a 
dozen medium -sized sweet apples, and one third as many sour ones, and 



DESSERTS. 301 

bake until well done. Mash tlirough a colander to make smooth and re- 
move the skins. Put into a granite-ware dish, smooth the top with a 
knife, return to the oven and bake very slowly until dry enough to keep 
its shape when cut. Add if desired a meringue made by beating the white 
of one egg with a tablespoonful of sugar. Cut in squares, and serve in 
individual dishes. The meringue may be flavored with lemon or dotted 
with bits of colored sugar. 

Bananas in Syrnp. — Heat in a porcelain kettle a pint of currant and 
red raspberry juice, equal parts, sweetened to taste. When boiling, dj^op 
into it a dozen peeled bananas, and simmer very gently for twenty minutes. 
Remove the bananas, boil the juice until thickened to the consistency of 
syrup, and pour over the fruit. Serve cold. 

Baked Bananas. — Bake fresh, firm, yellow bananas with the skins on 
fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. Serve hot. 

Fresh Fruit Compote. — Flavor three tablespoonfuls of sugar by mix- 
ing with it a little of the grated yellow rind of an orange, or by rubbing it 
over the orange to extract the oil. If the latter method is used, the square 
lump sugar will be preferable. Pare, quarter, and slice three medium-sized 
tart apples. Peel, remove the seeds, and cut in quite fine pieces three or- 
anges. Put the fruit in alternate' layers in a glass dish. Sweeten a cupful 
of fresh or canned raspberry juice with the flavored sugar, and turn it 
over the fruit. Put the dish on ice to cool for a half hour before serving. 

(irape Apples. — Sweeten a pmt of fresh grape juice with half a pint of 
sugar, and simmer gently until reduced one third. Pare and core without 
dividing, six or eight nice tart apples, and stew very slowly in the grape 
juice until tender, but not broken. Remove the apples and boil the juice 
(if any remain) until thickened to the consistency of syrup. Serve cold 
in individual dishes with a little of the grape syrup over each apple, or 
with a dressing of whipped cream. Canned grape pulp or juice may be 
utilized for this purpose. Sweet apples may be used instead of tart ones, 
and the sugar omitted. 

Peach Cream. — Pare and stone some nice yellow peaches, and mash 
with a spoon or press through a colander with'a potato masher. Allow 
equal quantities of the peach pulp and cream, add a little sugar to sweeten, 
and beat all together until the cream is light. Serve in saucers or glasses 
with currant buns. A banana cream may be prepared in the same manner. 

Prnne Dessert. — Prepare some prune marmalade as directed on page 
191. Put in a square granite-ware dish, which place inside another dish 
containing hot water, and cook in a slow oven until the marmalade is dry 
enough to retain its shape when cut with a knife. If desired add a 
meringue as for baked sweet apple dessert, dotting the top with pink 
sugar. Serve in squares in individual dishes. 



302 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

DESSERTS MADE OF FRUIT WITH GRAINS, 
BREAD, ETC. 

RECIPES. 

Apple Sandwich. — Mix half a cup of sugar with the grated yellow rind 
of half a lemon. Stir half a cup of cream into a quart of soft bread 
crumbs ; prepare three pints of sliced apples, sprinkled with the sugar ; 
fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of moistened crumbs and sliced 
apples, finishing with a thick layer of crumbs. Unless the apples are very 
juicy, add half a cup of cold water, and unless quite tart, have mixed 
with the water the juice of half a lemon. Cover and bake about one 
hour. Remove the cover toward the last, that the top may brown lightly. 
Serve with cream. Berries or other acid fruits may be used in place of 
apples, and rice or cracked wheat mush substituted for bread crumbs. 

Apple Sandwich No. 2. — Prepare and stew some apples as for sauce, 
allowing them to become quite dry ; flavor with lemon, pineapple, quince, 
or any desired flavor. Moisten slices of zwieback in hot cream as for 
toast. Spread a slice with the apple mixture, cover with a second slice 
of the moistened zwieback, then cut in squares and serve, with or without 
a dressing of mock cream. If desired to have the sandwiches particularly 
dainty, cut the bread from which the zwieback is prepared in rounds, tri- 
angles, or stars before toasting. 

Baked Apple Pudding:. — Pour boiling water over bread crumbs ; when 
soft, squeeze out all the water, and line the bottom and sides of an oiled 
earthen pudding dish with Ihe crumbs. Fill the interior with sliced 
apples, and cover with a layer of bread crumbs. Bake in a covered dish 
set in a pan of hot water, until the apples are tender ; then remove the 
cover and brown. Loosen the pudding with a knife, invert on a plate, 
and it will turn out whole. Serve with sugar and cream. 

Barley Fi'iiit Pudding. — Mix together a pint of cold, well steamed pearl 
barley, a cup of finely minced tart apples, three fourths of a cup of chopped 
and seeded raisins, a third of a cup of sugar, and a cup of boiling water 
and turn into a pudding dish ; cover, and place the dish in the oven in a 
pan of hot water, and bake slowly an hour and a half, or until the water 
has become quite absorbed and the fruit tender. Serve warm with a 
sauce made by dissolving a tablespoonful of apple jelly in a cup of hot 
water, adding sugar to taste, and thickening with a half teaspoonful of 
cornstarch. Any tart fruit jelly may be used, or the pudding may be 
served with cream and sugar flavored with a little grated lemon rind. 

Barley Fig- Pudding-. — One pint of well-steamed pearl barley, two 
cups of finely chopped best figs, one half cup of sugar, one half cup of 
thin sweet cream, and one and one half cups of fresh milk. Mix all 



DESSERTS. 303 

thoroughly, turn into an earthen pudding dish ; place it in the oven in a 
pan half full of hot water, and bake slowly till the milk is nearly ab- 
sorbed. The pudding should be stirred once or twice during the baking, 
so that the figs will be distributed evenly, instead of rising to the top. 

Blackberry Cornstarch Pudding:. — Take two quarts of well-ripened 
blackberries which have been carefully looked over, put them into a 
granite-ware boiler with half a cup of water, and stew for twenty minutes. 
Add sugar to sweeten, and three heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
rubbed to a cream with a little cold water. Cook until thickened, pour 
into molds, and cool. Serve cold with milk or cream. Other fresh or 
canned berries may be used in the same way. 

Cocoanut and Cornstarch Blancmange. — Simmer two tablespoonfuls of 
desiccated cocoanut in a pint of milk for twenty minutes, and strain through 
a fine sieve. If necessary, add more cold milk to make the full pint. Add 
a tablespoonful of sugar, heat to boiling, and stir in gradually two table- 
spoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a very little cold milk. Cook 
five minutes, turn into cups, and serve cold with fruit sauce or cream. 

Cornstarch Blancmange. — Stir together two tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch, half a cup of sugar, the juice and a little of the grated rind of 
one lemon ; braid the whole with cold water enough to dissolve well. 
Then pour boiling water over the mixture, stirring meanwhile, until it 
becomes transparent. Allow it to bubble a few minutes longer, pour into 
molds, and serve cold with cream and sugar. 

Cornstarch with Raisins. — Measure out one pint of rich milk. Rub two 
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch perfectly smooth with a little of the milk, 
and heat the remainder to boiling, adding to it a tablespoonful of sugar. 
Add the braided cornstarch, and let it cook until it thickens, stirring con- 
stantly. Then add a half cuj) of raisins which have been previously 
steamed. This may be served hot with sugar and cream, or turned into 
cups and molded, and served cold with lemon, orange, or other fruit sauce 
for dressing. 

Cornstarch with Apples. — ^ Prepare the cornstarch as in the preceding 
recipe, omitting the raisins. Place in a pudding dish some lemon apple 
sauce, without juice, about two inches deep. Pour the cornstarch over 
it, and serve hot or cold with cream. 

Cornstarch Fruit Mold. — Heat a quart of strawberry, raspberry, or cur- 
rant juice, sweetened to taste, to boihng. If the pure juice of berries is 
used, it may be diluted with one cup of water to each pint and a half of 
juice. Stir into it four tablespoonfuls of cornstarch well braided with a 
little of the juice reserved for this purpose. Boil until the starch is well 
cooked, stirring constantly. Pour into molds previously wet with cold 
water, and cool. Serve with cream and sugar. A circle of fresh berries 
around the mold when served adds to its appearance. 



304 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Cornstarch Fruit Mold No. 2. — Wash, stone, and stew some nice 
French prunes, add sugar to sweeten, and if there is not an abun- 
dance of juice, a little boiling water. For every one fourth pound of 
prunes there should be enough juice to make a pint in all, for which add 
two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, rubbed smooth in a little cold water, 
and boil three or four minutes. Pour into cups previously wet in cold 
water, and mold. Serve cold with whipped cream. Other dried or 
canned fruits, as apricots, peaches, cherries, etc., may be used in place of 
prunes, if preferred. 

Cracked-Wlieat Pudding-. — A very simple pudding may be made with 
two cups of cold, well-cooked cracked wheat, two and a half cups of milk, 
and one half cup of sugar. Let the wheat soak in the milk till thoroughly 
mixed and free from lumps, then add the sugar and a little grated lemon 
peel, and bake about three fourths of an hour in a moderate oven. It 
should be of a creamy consistency when cold, but will appear quite thin 
when taken from the oven. By flavoring the milk with cocoanut, a dif- 
ferent pudding may be produced. Rolled or pearl wheat may be used for 
this pudding. A cupful of raisins may be added if desired. 

Cracked-Wheat Pudding- No. 2. — Four and one half cups of milk, a very 
scant half cup of cracked wheat, one half cup of sugar ; put together in 
a pudding dish, and bake slowly with the dish covered and set in a pan of 
hot water for three or four hours, or until the wheat is perfectly tender, 
as may be ascertained by dipping a few grains with a spoon out from the 
side of the dish. 

Farina Blancmange. — Heat a quart of milk, reserving one half cup, 
to boiling. Then add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and four heaping 
tablespoonfuls of farina, previously moistened with the resei"ved half cup 
of milk. Let all boil rapidly for a few minutes till the farina has well set, 
then place in a double boiler, or a dish set in a pan of boiling water, to 
cook an hour longer. Mold in cups previously wet with cold water. 
Serve with sugar and cream flavored with vanilla or a little grated 
lemon rind, mock cream, or cocoanut sauce. 

Much variety may be given this simple dessert by serving it with a 
dressing of fruit juices ; red raspberry, strawberry, grape, currant, cran- 
berry, cherry, and plum are all very good. If desired, the milk with which 
the blancmange is prepared may be first flavored with cocoanut, thus 
making a different blancmange. Fresh fruit, as sliced banana, blueber- 
ries, or strawberries, lightly stirred in just before molding, make other 
excellent varieties. 

Farina Fruit Mold. — Put a quart of well-sweetened red raspberry 
juice into the inner cup of a double boiler. Heat to boiling, and stir in four 
heaping tablespoonfuls of farina first moistened with a little of the juice.. 



DESSERTS. 305 

Boil up until thickened, then set into the outer boiler, the water in 
which should be boiling, and cook for one hour. Pour into molds pre- 
viously wet in cold water, and cool. Serve with whipped cream or mock 
cream. Currant, strawberry, cherry, or blackberry juice may be used 
instead of I'aspberry. If water be added to dilute the juice, a little more 
farina will be needed. 

Fruit Pudding. — Measure out one quart of rich new milk, reserving 
half a pint to wet five large rounded tablespoonfuls of sifted flour. Add 
to the milk one even cup of sugar, turn in the flour mixture and heat to 
boiling in a farina kettle, stirring all the while to prevent lumps, and 
cook till it thickens, which will be about ten minutes after it begins to 
boil. Remove from the stove, and beat while it is cooling. When cool, 
add sliced bananas or whole strawberries, whortleberries, raspberries, 
blackberries, sliced apricots, or peaches. Serve cold. 

Jam Pudding-. — Make a jam by mashing well some fresh raspberries 
or blueberries and sweetening to taste. Spread over slices of fi^esh, light 
bread or buns, and pile in layers one above another in a pudding dish. 
Pour over the layers enough rich milk or thin cream heated to scalding, to 
moisten the whole. Turn a plate over the pudding, place a weight upon 
it, and press lightly till cold. Cut in slices, and serve with or without a 
cream dressing. 

Plain Fruit Pudding or Brown Betty. — Chop together one part seeded 
raisins and two parts good tart apples. Fill a pudding dish with alternate 
layers of the fruit and bread crumbs, finishing with the bread crumbs on 
top. Unless the apples are very juicy, moisten the whole with a table- 
spoonful of lemon juice in a cup of cold water, for a pudding filling a 
three-pint dish. Cover the dish and place it in a moderate oven in a 
pan of hot water, and bake nearly an hour ; then remove from the pan, 
uncover, and brown nicely. Serve warm with cream and sugar, or with 
an orange or lemon sauce. Seeded cherries may be used in place of the 
apples and raisins. In that case, each layer of fruit should be sprinkled 
lightly with sugar, and the water omitted. 

Prune Pudding. — Moisten rather thin slices of stale bread in hot milk 
and place in a pudding dish with alternate layers of stewed prunes from 
which the stones have been removed, finishing with bread on top. Pour 
over the whole a little more hot milk or pure juice or both, and bake in a 
moderate oven three fourths of an hour. Serve hot or cold with orange 
or lemon sauce. 

Rice Meringue. — Steam a cupful of rice as directed on page 99 until ten- 
der and dry. Heap it loosely on a glass dish, and dot with squares of cran- 
berry or currant jelly. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth with one 
third cup of sugar, and pile it roughly over the rice. Serve with cream. 
20 



306 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Rice Snowball. — Wash a cupful of good rice and steam until half 
done. Have pared and cored without dividing, six large, easy cook- 
ing tart apples. Put a clean square of cheese cloth over a plate, place 
the apples on it, and fill them and all the interstices between with rice, 
Put the remainder of the rice over and around the apples ; tie up the 
cloth, and cook in a kettle of boiling water until the apples are tender. 
When done, lift from the water and drain well, untie the cloth, invert the 
pudding upon a plate and remove the cloth. Serve hot with cream and 
sugar or cocoanut sauce. 

Rice Fruit Dessert. — Cold boiled rice, molded so that it can be sliced, 
may be utilized in making a variety of delicious desserts. A nice pudding 
may be prepared by filling a dish with alternate layers of half -inch slices 
of molded rice and grated tart raw apples the same thickness. Grate a 
little lemon rind over each layer. Cover, and place in the oven in a pan 
of boiling water, and bake for an hour. Serve with sugar and cream. 
Stoned cherries or peaches may be used instead of the apple. 

Rice Dumpling. — Steam a teacup of rice until tender, and line an 
oiled earthen pudding dish, pressing it up around the sides and over the 
bottom. Fill the crust thus made with rather tart apples cut in small 
slices ; cover with rice, and steam until the apples are tender, which 
may be determined by running a broom-straw through them. Let 
stand until cold, then turn from the dish, and serve with sugar and 
cream. Any easy cooking tart fruit, as stoned cherries, gooseberries, 
etc., may be used in place of the apples when preferred. 

Rice Cream Pudding-. — Take one cup of good well-washed rice, one 
scant cup of sugar, and eight cups of new milk, with a little grated lemon 
rind for flavoring. Put all into an earthen pudding dish, and place on the 
top of the range. Heat very slowly until the milk is boiUng, stirring fre- 
quently, so that the rice shall not adhere to the bottom of the dish. Then 
put into a moderately hot oven, and bake without stirring, till the rice is 
perfectly tender, which can be ascertained by dipping a spoon in one 
side and taking out a few grains. It should be, when cold, of a rich, 
creamy consistency, with each grain of rice whole. Serve cold. It is 
best if made the day before it is needed. If preferred, the milk may be 
first flavored with cocoanut, according to the directions given on page 298. 

Rice Pudding" with Raisins. — Wash thoroughly one half cup of rice, 
and soak for two hours in warm water. Drain off the water, add two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, one half cup of raisins, and four cups of milk. 
Put in an earthen pudding dish and cook for two hours in a moderate 
oven, stirring once or twice before the rice begins to swell, then add a cup 
of hot milk, and cook for an hour longer. 



DESSERTS. 307 

Red Rice Mold. — Take one and one half pints of red currants and one 
half pint of red raspberries, and follow directions on page 209 for extract- 
ing their juice. The juice may be diluted with one part water to two of 
juice if desired. Sweeten to taste, and for each pint when boiling stir in 
two tablespoonfuls of ground rice or rice flour rubbed smooth in a little 
of the juice which may be retained for the purpose. Pour into molds, 
cool, and serve with whipped cream. 

Rice and Fruit Dessert. — Steam a cup of good well-washed rice in milk 
till tender. Prepare some tart apples by paring, dividing midway between 
the stem and blow ends, and removing the cores. Fill the cavities with 
quince or pineapple jelly ; put the apples in a shallow stewpan with a half 
cup of water, cover, and steam till nearly tender. Put the rice, which 
should be very moist, around the bottom and sides of a pudding dish ; 
place the apples inside, cover, and bake ten minutes. Serve with cream 
flavored with quince or lemon. 

Rice and Tapioca Puddingy. — Soak one half cup of tapioca over night in 
a cup of water ; in the morning drain off the water if any remains. 
Add to the tapioca half a cup of rice, one cup of sugar, one cup of 
raisins, and eight cups of new milk, with a little grated lemon rind for 
flavoring. Put all in an earthen pudding dish on the top of the range, 
where it will heat very gradually to the boiling point, stirring frequently. 
When the milk boils, put the pudding in the oven, and bake till the rice 
grains are perfectly tender but not broken and mushy. From twenty 
minutes to half an hour is usually sufficient. When taken from the 
oven, it will appear quite thin, but after cooling will be of a delicious, 
creamy consistency. Serve cold. 

Rice-Flour Mold. — Braid two tablespoonfuls of rice flour with a little 
milk and stir the mixture into a pint of boiling milk to which has been 
added three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a little salt if desired. Let this 
boil until it thickens, then mold, and serve with cream and sugar or with 
lemon, orange, or other fruit sauce. 

Rice and Stewed Apple Dessert. — Steam or bake some rice in milk 
until tender, sweeten slightly and spread a layer of the rice half an inch 
thick on the bottom of a pudding dish, then a layer of lemon-flavored 
apple sauce, which has been rubbed through a colander and afterward 
simmered on the range until stiff. If preferred, the sauce may be pre- 
pared by first baking the apples, and then rubbing the pulp through a 
colander. Add another layer of rice, then one of sauce, and so on 
until the dish is full. Bake in a moderate oven and serve hot. If the 
apples are not very tart, part stewed and sifted cranberries may be used 
with them. 



3o8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Rice and Strawberry Dessert. — Soak a cup of rice in one and a half 
cups of new milk ; place all in an earthen dish, and steam an hour, or 
until dry and tender, stirring occasionally for the first fifteen minutes. 
When the rice is done, place in the bottom of cups previously moistened 
with cold water, five nice hulled strawberries in the shape of a star. 
Carefully fill the interstices between the berries with the cooked rice, and 
put in a layer of rice. Add next a layer of strawberries, then another 
of rice. Press firmly into the cups, and set away to cool. When well 
molded, turn into saucers, and pile whipped cream around each mold ; 
sprinkle with sugar and serve. 

A little care in forming the stars and filling the molds makes this a 
delicious and pretty dessert. If preferred, the dessert may be prepared 
in one large mold, and a larger number of berries arranged in the form of 
a cross in the bottom of the dish, covering with rice, and adding as many 
alternate layers of berries and rice as desired. 

Stewed Fruit Pudding-. — Take a deep, square or oblong granite-ware 
or earthen dish ; cut strips of stale bread uniformly an inch in width and 
three fourths of an inch in thickness, and place them in the mold with 
spaces between them equal to their width. Or, fit the strips around the 
bottom of a round, earthen pudding dish, like the spokes of a wheel, with 
an open space between each and in the center. Have ready some hot 
stewed or canned fruit, sweetened to taste ; whortleberries are best, but 
apricots, cherries, currants, strawberries, and gooseberries may all be 
used. Separate the juice from the berries by turning them into a colan- 
der. Fill the interstices between the bread with hot fruit, using just as 
little juice as possible. Cover with another layer, this time placing the 
strips of bread over the fruit in the first layer, and leaving the spaces for 
fruit over the bread in the first layer. Fill the dish with these layers 
of fruit and bread, and when full, pour over all the hot fruit juice. Put 
a plate with a weight on it on the top to press it firmly. Dip off any juice 
that may be pressed out, and set the pudding m the refrigerator to cool 
and press. When cold, it will turn out whole, and can be cut m slices 
and served with whipped cream or cocoanut sauce. 

Strawberry Minute Pudding. — Cook a quart of ripe strawberries in a 
pint of water till well scalded. Add sugar to taste. Skim out the fruit, 
and into the boiling juice stir a scant cup of granulated wheat flour pre- 
viously rubbed to. a paste with a little cold water ; cook fifteen or twenty 
minutes, pour over the fruit, and serve cold with cream sauce. 

Sweet Apple Pudding-. — Pare, core, and slice enough ripe, juicy sweet 
apples to fill a pint bowl. Heat a quart of new milk to scalding in a 
double boiler. Pour it hot over one cup of good granulated cornmeal, 
and beat very thoroughly to remove all lumps. Return to the double 



DESSERTS. 309 

boiler, and cook until the meal is set. The batter then should be about 
the consistency of corn mush. Remove from the fire, add a pint of cold 
milk, stir in the sliced apples, one third of a cup of sugar or molasses, 
and a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a very little milk. Turn all 
into a deep earthen crock or pudding dish, and bake slowly from three to 
four hours, stirring frequently the first hour. It should be moderately 
browned on top when done. Serve warm or cold. 

Whortleberry Pudding-. — One quart of new milk, one quart of fine 
bread crumbs, two quarts of fresh whortleberries, one or two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Heat the milk to boiling ; fill a pudding dish with 
alternate layers of bread crumbs and berries, beginning and ending with 
crumbs. Add the sugar to the milk, let it dissolve, and pour the whole 
over the pudding. Cover closely, and bake in a slow oven within a pan 
of hot water nearly an hour. Serve warm with cream or cocoanut sauce. 

DESSERTS WITH TAPIOCA, SAGO, MANIOCA, 
AND SEA MOSS. 

Both pearl and flake tapioca are suitable for these desserts. 
They should be soaked for some hours before using, and it 
is always best to soak over night if convenient. The flake 
tapioca requires longer soaking and cooking than the pearl 
tapioca. For soaking, use one and a half cups of water for 
each cup of flake tapioca, and one pint of water for a cup of 
pearl tapioca. For cooking, three or four additional cups of 
water will be required for each cup of tapioca, depending upon 
the articles used with it. A double boiler should be used for 
the cooking. 

RECIPES. 

Apple Tapioca. — Soak a cupful of pearl tapioca over night. In the 
moi"ning simmer in a quart of boiling water until transparent and thick- 
ened. Arrange in the bottom of a pudding dish four or five good-sized tart 
apples, which have been pared, cored, and the cavities filled with sugar. 
Squeeze the juice of a lemon and grate a very little of the rind over the 
apples. Pour the tapioca over the fruit. Set the dish inside a pan filled 
with hot water, cover, and bake one hour, or until the apples are done. 
Serve with sugar and cream. It is best nearly cold. Fresh peaches, 
pared and stewed, may be used in place of apples, if preferred. 

Apple Tapioca No. 2. — Soak a half cup of tapioca in a cup of tepid 
water, for at least three hours. Pare, core, and quarter nice tart apples 



3IO SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

to fill a two-quart pudding dish nearly half full. Add four cups of water 
and one of sugar to the soaked tapioca, pour it over the apples, and bake 
two or three hours in a slow oven. Serve with whipped cream. 

Banana Dessert. — Soak a cup of tapioca over night. In the morning 
cook in a double boiler in a quart of water until transparent. When 
done, add a cup of sugar and three or four sliced bananas. Serve cold 
with cream. 

Blackberry Tapioca. — Soak a cup of tapioca over night. When ready 
to cook, add three cups of boiling water and cook in a double boiler until 
transparent and smooth. Sprinkle a quart of fresh blackberries with 
sugar, and stir lightly into the tapioca. Pour into molds and serve cold 
with cream and sugar. Other fresh berries may be used in the same way. 

Cherry Pudding-. — Soak and cook a half cup of tapioca in a pint 
of water until transparent. Have a pint of fresh pitted cherries in an 
earthen pudding dish. Sprinkle them well with sugar, pour over them 
the cooked tapioca, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Serve hot 
with or without cream. 

Fruit Tapioca. — Cook three fourths of a cup of tapioca in four cups of 
water until smooth and transparent. Stir into it lightly a pint of fresh 
strawberries, raspberries, currants, or any small fruit, adding sugar as 
required. For variety a cup of canned quinces or apricots may be sub- 
stituted for fresh fruit. Serve warm or cold with whipped cream or 
mock cream. 

Molded Tapioca with Fruit.— Simmer one half cup of desiccated cocoa- 
nut in a pint of milk for twenty minutes. Strain out the cocoanut, and 
add milk to make a full pint. Add one half cup of sugar and one half 
cup of tapioca previously soaked over night. Let the whole simmer until 
the tapioca is transparent. Dip some cups in cold water, drain, and lay 
fresh strawberries, currants, or cherries in the bottom of each in the form 
of a star or cross. Pour the tapioca into the molds gently, so as not to 
displace the fruit. When cold, turn out and serve with whipped cream 
or fruit sauce. Raisins may be substituted for fresh fruit. Or bits of jelly 
may be placed around the mold after it has cooled, if preferred. 

Pineapple Tapioca. — Soak one cup of tapioca over night in one and 
one half cups of water. Add two and one half cups of water and cook in 
a double boiler until transparent, then add one cup of sugar and one 
juicy pineapple minced fine with a sharp knife. Mold, and serve cold with 
or without cream. 

Prune and Tapioca Pudding. — Soak one half cup of tapioca over night. 
In the morning cook until transparent in two cups of water. Stew two 
cups of well-washed and stoned prunes in a quart of water till perfectly 
tender ; then add the juice of a good lemon and two tablespoonfuls of 



DESSERTS. 311 

sugar, and boil till the syrup becomes thick and rich. Turn the prunes 
into a pudding dish, cover with the cooked tapioca, and add a little grated 
lemon rind. Bake lightly. Serve without dressing or with sugar and 
cream or almond sauce. If preferred, the prunes and tapioca may be 
placed in the dish in alternate layers, having the top one of tapioca. 

Tapioca and Fig Pudding'. — Cook three fourths of a cup of tapioca as 
for Apple Tapioca. Have ready two cups of finely sliced or chopped tart 
apples, and one cup of chopped figs, which have first been lightly steamed. 
If preferred, raisins may be used in place of half the figs. Put the fruit in 
the bottom of the pudding dish, turn the tapioca over it, and bake till the 
fruit is very soft. If the apples are not very tart, sprinkle the juice of 
a lemon over them before adding the figs and tapioca. 

A nice fruit pudding can also be made by using half canned pears and 
half apples, or canned quinces may be substituted for figs. 

Peacli Tapioca. — For this will be needed a quart of nicely canned 
peaches, a cup of tapioca, and from one half to three fourths of a cup 
of sugar, according to the sweetness of the peaches. Soak the tapioca 
over night in just enough water to cover. When ready to cook, put in a 
double boiler with three cups of water, and cook for an hour. Remove 
from the fire and add to it the juice from the peaches, of which there 
should be a cup and a half, which has been secured by draining the 
peaches in a colander, and stir it well into the tapioca. Place a layer 
of this mixture in an oiled pudding dish, add the peaches, cover with the 
remainder of the tapioca, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 

Tapioca Jelly. — Soak a cup of tapioca in a pint of water over night. 
Add another pint and cook until transparent and smooth. Add three 
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and four tablespoonfuls of sugar ; beat well 
together and turn into molds. Serve cold. No (dressing is required. 
This may be varied by using unsweetened currant, grape, or other acid 
fruit juice in place of lemon. Fruit jelly may be used if the juice is not eas- 
ily obtained. Add when the tapioca is well cooked, and stir until dissolved. 

Apple Sago Pudding. — Soak one cup of sago in six cups of water ; 
stew ten small apples, mix with the sago, and bake three quarters of an 
hour. Serve with cream and sugar. It is better warm than cold, but 
acceptable either way. 

Red Sago Mold. — Take a quart of red raspberry juice, pure or diluted 
with one third water, and sweeten to taste. Have ready one half cup of 
best sago which has soaked for twenty minutes in just enough water to 
cover. Drain off any water that may remain. Add the sago to the juice, 
and cook until the sago is transparent, then turn into molds. Serve cold 
with cream. Cranberry or strawberry juice may be used in place of the 
raspberry, if preferred. 



312 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Sago Fruit Pudding'. — Soak a small cup of sago an hour in just enough 
water to cover. Drain off any water that may not be absorbed. Mix two 
thirds of a cup of sugar with the sago, and stir all into a quart of boiling 
water. Let it boil until the sago is perfectly transparent and pour in a 
pint of nicely hulled strawberries. Turn into molds to cool, or serve 
warm with cream, as preferred. Tapioca can be used instead of sago, 
but needs longer soaking. Raspberries, stoned cherries, or currants can 
be used in place of strawberries. 

Sago Pudding. — Soak a cupful of sago for twenty minutes in a cup of 
cold water ; then pour over it a quart and a cup of boiling water, add a 
cup of sugar and one half cup of raisins. Cook till the sago is per- 
fectly transparent, flavor with vanilla, and set away to cool. Serve with 
whipped cream. 

Manioca with Fruit. — Pare, core, and quarter six medium-sized tart 
apples, and put them to cook in a quart of boiling water. Add a cup of 
sugar, and cook without stirring until softened, then sprinkle into the 
water in which they are cooking five tablespoonfuls of manioca, and 
cook until it is transparent, which will be in about ten minutes. Flavor 
with a little grated lemon rind, and serve hot with sugar and cream, or 
mold, as preferred. Canned peaches, apricots, or cherries may be used 
in a similar manner, adding boiling water if there is not sufficient juice to 
properly cook the manioca. Or the manioca may be first cooked in boil- 
ing water, using four scant tablespoonfuls for a pint of water, and when 
transparent, turning it over sliced bananas, pineapples, or oranges, mold- 
ing, and serving with cream and sugar. 

Raspberry Manioca Mold. — Heat a pint of water, and when boiling, 
sprinkle into it four scant tablespoonfuls of manioca and cook for ten 
minutes or until transparent, stirring continually. When transparent 
and thickened, remove from the fire, and add a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice and one cup of sugar. Place a layer of the cooked manioca in the 
bottom of a pudding dish, add a layer of freshly picked red raspberries, 
then another of the manioca, filling the dish in alternate layers with one 
of manioca for the top. Set away in some cool place until well molded. 
Serve in slices with cream flavored with rose. Other fresh berries may 
be used instead of raspberries. 

Sea Moss Blancmange. — Wash the moss well in several waters, and 
soak in a very little cold water for an hour before using. It is hardly 
possible to give exact directions for making this blancmange, owing to the 
difficulty of accurately measuring the moss, but in general, a small hand- 
ful will be ample for a quart of milk. Add the moss, when washed, to 
the milk, and cook in a double boiler until the milk has become thick- 
ened and glutinous. Add sugar to sweeten, flavor with vanilla or rose 



DESSERTS. 313 

water, and strain through a fine sieve into cups previously wet in cold 
water, and mold. This may be varied by using boiling water instead of 
milk for cooking, adding the juice of one or two lemons and a little grated 
rind to flavor, 

DESSERTS MADE WITH GELATINE. 

Gelatine is an article largely employed in making delicate 
and dainty dishes. It is economical and convenient, because 
the dessert can be prepared several hours before needed ; but 
it must be stated that it has in itself little or no food value, and 
there is great liability of its being unwholesome. A writer in 
the Anti- Adulteration Joitrnal, a short time since, speaking of 
the use of gelatine, says : — 

" The nutritive value of pure gelatine has been shown to be 
very low in the scale of foods. The beef gelatine of the mar- 
kets that is used by bakers, is far from being pure gelatine. It 
frequently has a very disagreeable, fetid odor, and has evidently 
begun to decompose during the process of manufacture. After 
a thorough drying, putrefaction does not take place as long as 
it remains dry. But suppose that gelatine which has thus be- 
gun to decompose during the drying process, containing, per- 
haps, putrefactive germs in the dried state, be dissolved in 
water, and in hot weather, kept in this condition for a few 
hours previous to being used ; the result would be rapid pu- 
trefaction. The putrefaction would be checked by freezing ; but 
the bacteria causing it are not killed by the low temperature- 
As soon as the dessert is melted or eaten, they resume their 
activity in the body, and may cause sickness. It is a well- 
known fact that gelatine is an excellent medium in which to 
cultivate various kinds of micro-organisms ; and if the con- 
clusions here mentioned be correct, it seems that gelatine 
should be used with great care in connection with food prepa- 
rations. When used carelessly, it may do a great deal of harm. 
I wish to impress those who use it with the importance of guard- 
ing against its dangers. Gelatine should not be allowed to 
remain in solution for many hours before using, especially in 
hot weather 



314 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

" When used at all, the best varieties should be employed, 
and such as are free from putrefactive odor." 

A "box" of gelatine is used to signify a two-ounce package. 
If half a box is called for, divide it by cutting the box and its 
contents in halves rather than by emptying the box and then 
attempting to make a division. 

To prepare gelatine for desserts, first soak it till soft in a 
small quantity of cold water (a cupful to one box of gelatine 
is sufficient) ; fifteen minutes will suffice if it is stirred fre- 
quently ; then dissolve in boiling liquid. Do not cook the 
gelatine, and after it is dissolved, always strain through a 
cloth strainer before using. 

In winter, a two-ounce package will solidify two quarts of 
liquid, including the water in which the gelatine is soaked. In 
summer, a little less liquid should be used. Gelatine desserts 
must be left on ice or in a cool place until hardened, but they 
should not be served at the table so cold as to interfere with 
the digestion of other foods. 

REC/PES. 

Apples in Jelly. — Pare and core without cutting open, a half dozen 
medium-sized tart apples of the same degree of hardness. Fill the cen- 
ters with a little grated lemon rind and sugar. Steam until tender but 
not broken. Have ready half a package of gelatine which has been 
soaked for an hour in just enough water to cover. Prepare a syrup 
with one cup of sugar and a pint of water. When boiling, turn the 
syrup over the gelatine, stirnng well to dissolve it, and add the juice of 
half a lemon. Strain, place the apples in a deep dish with a little space 
between each ; turn the mixture over them, and set in the ice box to 
cool. Serve with or without a little whipped cream. 

Apple Shape. — Steam some nice tart apples. When tender, rub 
through a colander. Have two thirds of a box of gelatine soaked in 
just enough water to cover ; pour over it a cup and a half of boiling water; 
when well dissolved, strain and add a pint of the sifted apples sweetened 
to taste, and one half cup of grated fresh or canned pineapple, or if pre- 
ferred, one half cup of the juice of canned pineapple. Turn into cups 
previously wet in cold water, and mold. Serve with a little cream. 
Canned peaches, apricots, and other fruit may be used the same as 
apples, if preferred. Rub the fruit with but little juice through a col- 
ander, and proceed as above 



DESSERTS. 315 

Banana Dessert. — Dissolve half a box of gelatine in a half cup of 
warm water. Heat three cups of rich milk to boiling, and add to it one 
cup of sugar and turn over the well-dissolved gelatine and strain. 
Let it partly cool, and mix in three or four bananas, sliced thin or 
chopped fine. Turn all into a mold previously wet with cold water, 
and leave till hardened, which may require several hours unless the 
mold be placed on ice. When well molded, turn into a glass dish, serve 
with whipped cream flavored with vanilla or lemon. 

Clear Dessert. — Soak a box of gelatine in a large bowl with half a cup 
of cold water. When soft, pour over it three pints of boiling water, add 
the juice of three large lemons and two cups of sugar. Stir well, strain, 
and pour into molds previously wet with cold water. Put into the refrig- 
erator until hardened. Serve with whipped cream. Quince, apricot, 
orange, or pineapple juice may be substituted for lemon, and thus a 
variety of desserts may be made. 

Fruit Foam Dessert. — Soak half a package of gelatine in half a cup of 
cold water until soft. Heat to boiling two and one half cups of red rasp- 
berr}% currant, strawberry, or grape juice, sweetened to taste, and pour 
over the soaked gelatine. Stir until perfectly dissolved, then strain, and 
set the dish in ice water to cool. When it is cold and beginning to 
thicken, beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth and stir into the 
thickening gelatine. Beat thoroughly for fifteen minutes with an egg 
beater, or whip till the whole is of a solid foam stiff enough to retain 
its shape. Turn into molds previously wet with cold water, or pile 
roughly in large spoonfuls in a glass dish. Set away in the refrigerator 
until needed. Serve with a little whipped cream piled lightly around it. 

Fruit Shape. — Take a quart of nicely canned red raspberries, sweet- 
ened to taste; turn into a colander and drain off the juice, taking care 
to keep the fruit as perfect as possible. Put two thirds of a box of 
gelatine to soak in just enough of the juice to cover. When the gela- 
tine is ready, heat the remainder of the juice to boiling and pour over it. 
When well dissolved, add the fruit, turn into cups, and mold. Serve with 
cream. Peaches, strawberries, apricots, and other canned fruit may be 
used in place of the raspberries, if preferred. 

Gelatine Cnstard. — Soak a quarter of a box of gelatine in one fourth of 
a cuj) of cold water till soft ; then pour over it three fourths of a cup of 
boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Beat the yolks of two eggs and 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar to a cream ; pour over it slowly, stirring 
continuously, a pint of boiling milk, and cook in a double boiler until it 
thickens. Then add the gelatine mixture, which should first be strained, 
the whites of the two eggs beaten stiff, and a little vanilla for flavoring. 
Beat all well together, turn into molds previously wet in cold water, and 
place on ice to harden. Serve with fruit sauce. 



3l6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Layer Pudding'. — Divide a package of gelatine into three portions, and 
put each to soak in one third of a cup of cold water. Heat one and one 
fourth cups of water to boiling, add the juice of one lemon and two thirds 
of a cup of sugar. Turn this slowly, stirring well meanwhile, over the 
well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Cook in a double boiler five minutes, or 
until the mixture thickens. Pour the hot custard over one portion of the 
soaked gelatine, and stir it until dissolved. Strain, add a little grated 
lemon rind for flavoring, and turn into a broad, shallow dish to mold. A 
square granite-ware baking tin is admirable for this purpose. 

Take one and one half cups of raspberry, strawberry, grape, or cur- 
rant juice, sweetened to taste ; heat to boiling and pour over the second 
portion of the soaked gelatine. Stir till well dissolved, strain, and turn 
into a shallow mold like that containing the first portion. 

Heat one and one half cups of rich milk to boiling, add one half cup 
of sugar, and pour over the third portion of soaked gelatine. Strain and 
cool a little, flavor with vanilla or a few chopped bananas ; or, if pre- 
ferred, flavor the milk with cocoanut before using, as directed on page 
298. Pour into a third mold like the others to cool. When all are cold, 
arrange in layers, the yellow at the bottom and the white at the top. 
The whites of the eggs may be used for meringue, or for making a 
whipped cream sauce to serve with the pudding. 

Lemon Jelly. — Soak one half box of gelatine in a scant cup of cold 
water until soft. Then pour over it one pint of boiling water and stir 
until well dissolved. Add one cup of sugar, the yellow rind of one lemon, 
and one half cup of lemon juice. Strain, put into molds previously wet 
in cold water, and place in the ice chest to harden. If preferred, the 
above may be cooled in a shallow dish and cut into irregular shapes to 
be served with a custard sauce. Use only the yolks of eggs in making 
the custard, that it may have a rich color, using two yolks in place of one 
whole egg. 

Jelly with Fruit. — Soak a package of gelatine in a cup of cold water 
until soft ; then pour over it one quart and a cup of boiling water. 
Strain, add the juice of four lemons and twelve tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Cool a little of the gelatine in a mold, and as soon as set, scatter in some 
nice currants or seedless raisins ; add another layer of gelatine, and when 
set, scatter in more fruit ; continue until the mold is full, having gelatine 
at the top. Fresh fruit, currants, grapes, cherries, plums, peaches, etc., 
may be used in place of raisins, if preferred. 

Orang'e Dessert. — Soak one third of a cup of gelatine in one third of 
a cup of cold water until soft ; then pour over it one third of a cup of 
boiling water. Add a scant cup of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and a 
cupful of orange juice and pulp. Set the dish containing the mixture in 



DESSERTS. 317 

a pan of ice water until it begins to harden. Have ready the whites of 
three eggs well whipped, add to the jelly, and beat all together until light 
and stiff enough to drop. Pour into molds wet in cold water, and lined 
with sections of oranges, from which seeds and white fiber have been 
removed. 

Orang'es in Jelly. — Pare divide, and take out the seeds from four 
or five sweet oranges, being careful to remove all the white rind and 
shreds. Place in a deep dish and pour over them a syrup prepared as 
for Apples in Jelly, using the juice of a whole lemon. Set in the ice box 
over night. A very little orange peel may be grated into the syrup if 
liked ; and if the oranges are very sweet, less sugar will be required. 
If one can afford to use orange juice in place of the water in making the 
syrup, the dessert will be greatly improved. 

Orang'e Jelly. — Soak one quarter of a box of gelatine until soft in just 
enough cold water to cover. Then pour over it one half cup of boiling 
water. Stir until well dissolved, add the juice of one small lemon, one 
cupful of orange juice, and one half cup of sugar. Strain, turn into 
molds previously wet in cold water, and set on ice to harden. Straw- 
berry, raspberry, and other fruit juices may be used in a similar manner. 

Snow Pudding'. — Soak one fourth of a box of gelatine until soft in an 
equal measure of cold water. Then pour over it one cup of boiling water, 
and add one fourth of a cup of strained lemon juice and one cup of sugar ; 
stir till the sugar is all dissolved. Strain into a large china dish, and set 
in ice water to cool. Let it stand until cold and beginning to thicken. 
Have ready the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and add to 
the gelatine as it begins to thicken ; beat all together for fifteen or twenty 
minutes, until it is of a solid foam and stiff enough to hold its shape. 
Turn into molds and keep in a cool place till needed. A half dozen 
finely sliced or chopped bananas stirred in toward the last, makes a 
nice variation. Serve with custard sauce made with the yolks of the 
eggs and flavored with rose or vanilla. Orange, quince, or pineapple 
juice may be substituted for lemon, for a change. 

This dessert is best if made several hours before it is needed and set 
in the refrigerator to keep cold. 

DESSERTS WITH CRUSTS. 

REC/PES. 

Apple Tart. — Pare and slice some quick-cooking, tart apples, and 
place them in the bottom of a pudding dish, with a tablespoonful of water. 
Cover with a crust prepared in the following manner : Into a cup of thin 
cream stir a gill of yeast and two cups of flour ; let this become very 



3l8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

light, then add sufficient flour to mix soft. Knead for fifteen or twenty 
minutes very thoroughly, roll evenly, and cover the apples ; put all in a 
warm place until the crust has become very light, then bake. If the 
apples do not bake easily, they may be partially cooked before putting on 
the crust. Dish so that the fruit will be uppermost, and serve cold with 
cream and sugar, cocoanut sauce, or mock cream. 

Goosebei'ry Tart. — Fill a pudding dish with well-prepared green goose- 
berries, adding a tablespoonful or two of water. Cover with a crust as for 
Apple Tart, and when light, bake in a moderately quick oven. Cut the 
crust into the required number of pieces, and dish with gooseberries 
heaped on top. Serve cold with sugar and cream. 

Cherry Tart. — Prepare the same as for Apple Tart, with stoned cher- 
ries, only omitting the water, as the cherries will be sufficiently juicy 
of themselves. If the fruit is very juicy, sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour 
over it before putting on the crust. Plum and peach tart may be made in 
the same manner, and are both very nice. 

Strawberry and other Fruit Shortcakes. — Beat together one cup of 
thin cream, slightly warmed, a tablespoonful of yeast, and two small 
cups of flour. Set in a warm place till very light. Add sufficient warm 
flour to mix soft, and knead thoroughly for fifteen or twenty minutes. 
Divide into two equal portions, and roll into sheets about one half inch 
in thickness, making the center a very little thiner than the edges, so that 
when risen, the center will not be highest. Place in tins, and set in 
a warm place until perfectly risen, or until they have doubled their first 
thickness. Bake quickly. When cold, spread one cake with fruit, and 
cover with the other. If the fruit is large, it may be chopped fine with 
a knife, gr mashed with a spoon. A little lemon juice added to peaches is 
an addition for shortcake. 

Banana Shortcake. — Prepare the crust as previously directed. Fill 
with sliced bananas, for every three of which add the the juice of one 
orange, a little of the grated rind, and a half cup of sugar. 

Lemon Shortcake. — Prepare the crust as for Fruit Shortcake. For 
the filling, grate the yellow portion only of the lemon, and squeeze the 
juice into a bowl ; add a cupful of sugar. Braid a tablespoonful of flour 
smooth with two tablespoonfuls of water, add enough boiling water, stir- 
ring well meanwhile, to make a teacupful. Add this to the other ingredi- 
ents, beat well together, and place the bowl in a basin of boiling water 
or over the teakettle. Cook until about as thick as boiled custard. Fill 
this between the shortcakes and serve. 

Berry Shortcake with Prepared Cream. — Prepare the shortcake as pre- 
viously directed. Sweeten the berries and spread on the lower crust, then 
pour over them a " cream " prepared as follows, and add top crust : — 



DESSERTS. 319 

Cream. — Heat one half cup of milk and the same of thin cream to 
boiHng, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and thicken with one teaspoon- 
ful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Turn the hot 
sauce over the beaten white of two eggs, stirring rapidly meanwhile, until 
the egg is thoroughly mingled with the whole. Allow it to become cold 
before using. 

Raised Pie. — Prepare the dough as for shortcake. Divide in two 
portions, spread one on the tin, and cover with a layer of easy-cooking 
tart apples sliced in eighths. Put two or three spoonfuls of rather thick 
sweet cream over the apples, and cover with the top crust. Let the 
crusts rise until very light, and bake. Peaches may be used in the same 
manner. 

Baked Apple Loaf. — Prepare some dough as for buns on page 347, 
leaving out the sugar, and when ready for the last molding, cut it 
into three portions. Put some flour "on the bread board, mold the dough 
well, and roll as thin as pie crust in such shape as will fit a shallow bak- 
ing tin. Spread over the tin, and cover the dough with a layer of easy- 
cooking, sour apples sliced very thin, or with very stiff apple marmalade. 
Cover this with a second layer of dough, then add another layer of ap- 
ples, and cover with the third portion of the dough. Pinch the edges of 
the dough well together, let the loaf rise till very light, then bake. Eat 
cold with sugar and cream. If the apples will not cook quickly, they may 
be first steamed until nearly tender. If the crust appears too hard when 
taken from the oven, cover with a wet napkin and allow it to steam for a 
little time until softened. 

CUSTARD PUDDINGvS. 

Very much depends upon the bakiny; in ;dl puddings made 
with milk and eggs. 

A custard pudding made with one e^^g, and slowly baked, 
will be much thicker and nicer than one made with more eggs, 
baked in too hot an oven. 

A custard pudding baked too quickly or too long will have 
the eggs mixed with the farinaceous substance and the milk 
turned to whey, while one more carefully baked will have eggs 
and milk formed into a thick custard on the top. 

Custard puddings and all other baked puddings which re- 
quire. to be cooked slowly, are best cooked in an earthen dish 
set in the oven in a pan of hot water, and baketl only till the 



320 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

pudding is set. If it is desirable to use with eggs any ingredi- 
ent which requires a lengthy cooking, it is much better to cook 
it partially before adding the eggs. Many custard desserts 
are much more dainty and more easily served when cooked 
in cups than when baked in a large dish. The blue willow pat- 
tern stoneware cups and the blue and white Japanese ware are 
very suitable for this purpose. When cooking, set the cups, 
allowing one for each person, in the oven in a dripping pan 
containing hot water, and bake. Serve without removing from 
the cups. 

If desired to stir beaten eggs into heated milk, add a few 
spoonfuls of cold milk to the eggs, and pour the mixture, a lit- 
tle at a time, into the hot milk, taking care to stir it constantly. 

A nice way to flavor custards and meringues for custard 
puddings is to beat fruit jelly with the whites of the eggs ; red 
raspberry, quince, and pineapple jellies give especially nice 
flavors. 

REC/PES. 

Apple Custard. — Bake good tart apples ; when done, remove the pulp, 
and rub through a sieve ; sweeten, and flavor with grated pineapple or 
grated orange or lemon rind. Put in a glass dish, and cover with a 
plain custard prepared as directed on page 328. Bits of jelly may be 
scattered over the top of the custard. 

Apple Custard No. 2. — Peel, halve, and core eight or ten medium-sized 
sour apples. Have prepared a syrup made with a cup of water, the juice 
of one lemon, a little grated rind, and a half cup of sugar. When the 
sugar is dissolved, add the fruit, and simmer till tender but not fallen 
to pieces. Skim out the apples, draining thoroughly, and lay them in a 
glass dish. Boil up the syrup until thick, and pour it over the apples. 
Make a soft boiled custard with a pint of milk, yolks of three eggs, and 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar. When cold, spread over the apples ; whip 
the whites to a stiff froth, flavor with lemon, and pile irregularly upon 
the top. Brown lightly in the oven. 

Apple Custard No. 3. — Pare and remove the cores from a dozen tart 
apples, and fill the cavities with black raspberry, quince, or grape jelly. 
Put them in a covered baking dish with a tablespoonful of water, and 
steam in the oven till tender but not fallen to pieces. Then cover the 
apples with a raw custard made by cooking two tablespoonfuls of flour 
rubbed smooth with a little milk, in a quart of milk, till just thickened, 



DESSERTS. 321 

and adding, when cold, the 3'olks of two eggs well beaten with two heap- 
ing tablespoonfuls of sugar, and lastly the whites of the eggs whipped to 
a stiff froth. Bake in a dish set in a pan of hot water, until the custard 
has set, but not till it separates. 

Apple Cornstarch Custard. — Cover the bottom of a small earthen-ware 
pudding dish an inch or more in depth with apples stewed until very dry, 
sweetened and flavored with a teaspoonful of rose water. Hoat a cup 
of milk to boiling, and stir into it a tablespoonful of cornstarch rubbed 
smooth in a little cold milk, and one fourth cup of sugar ; cook un-til thick- 
ened, then add the yolk of one egg, and pour the whole over the apple. 
Meringue the top with the white of the egg beaten stiff with a tablespoon- 
ful of sugar, and flavored with a little rose water. 

Apple and Bread (bustard. — For this is required one cup of finely 
rolled bread crumbs, two eggs, one half cup of sugar, one cup minced 
sour apples, and one quart of milk. Beat the sugar and yolks together, 
add the milk, bread, and fruit, and lastly the well-beaten whites of the 
eggs. Bake in a dish set in a pan of hot water till firm but not dry. 

Almond Cornstarch Pudding'. — Blanch one and one half ounces of 
sweet almonds, and reduce them to a paste as directed on page 298 ; 
or if obtainable, almondine may be used instead of the prepared almonds. 
Heat a quart of milk, and while boiling, stir into it four tablespoonfuls 
of cornstarch which has been braided smooth with a little cold milk ; 
let it thicken over the fire, stirring all the time. Then add two table- 
spoonfuls of thick, sweet cream. Lastly, stir in two or three well-beaten 
eggs and a tablespoonful of rose water. Let it come just to the boiling 
point, and remove from the stove. Keep in a cold place till needed. 
Serve with ]u)t mock cream or with grape pulp as dressing. 

Almond Cream. — Heat a pint of milk, and when boiling stir into it two 
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, also one 
fourth cup of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of almondine. Cook until 
thickened, and pour it, stirring constantly meanwhile, over the beaten 
whites of two eggs. Set on ice to cool, and serve with grape pulp as 
dressing. A cupful of blanched and chopped almonds ma}' be used in- 
stead of almondine if that is not obtainable. The pudding will then 
require an additional one fourth cup of sugar. 

Apple Charlotte. — Take three cups of nicely stewed tart apples which 
have been beaten smooth or rubbed through a colander and sweetened to 
taste. If the sauce is thin and very juicy, place it upon the range, and 
simmer slowly till it is of the consistency of thick marmalade or jelly. 
Add to the apples four tablespoonfuls of grated fresh or canned pineapple 
for flavoring. Remove tlie hard crusts from slices of light whole-wheat 
bread, spread them quite thickly with the prepared apple, and pack in 
21 



322 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

layers in a pudding mold. Cover with a simple custard made of a quart 
of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two eggs. Let it stand half an 
hour, then bake. Do not press the bread or beat it after the custard is 
turned on, as that will be likely to make the pudding heavy. Other fruit 
marmalade may be used in place of the apple preparation if preferred. 

Banana Custard. — Prepare a custard as directed for Plain Custard 
with a quart of milk, two well-beaten eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
and one of cornstarch. When the custard is cool, pour it over four 
thinly sliced yellow bananas, over which a tablespoonful of sugar and a 
teaspoonful of water have been sprinkled. Serve cold. 

Boiled Custard. — Beat thoroughly together one pint of milk, two eggs, 
and a tablespoonful or two of sugar, until thoroughly mingled. Turn the 
mixture into a double boiler, and cook until the custard is set. 

Boiled Custard Bread Pudding-. — Crumble enough of the soft portion 
of stale whole-wheat bread to lightly fill a pint bowl. Heat a pint of 
milk to boiling. Stir into it, as soon as it boils, two eggs, yolks and whites 
well beaten separately, two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little grated 
lemon rind, and the light bread crumbs ; stir rapidly till the whole thick- 
ens, pour into a deep dish, and when cold, dot the top with bits of currant 
or cranberry jelly. 

Bread and Fruit Custard. — Take for this, two cups of grated bread 
crumbs, two cups of finely chopped tart apples, one cup of English cur- 
rants or stoned raisins, mixed with a very little chopped citron for flavor, 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three cups of milk, and two eggs. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, then add the milk, bread, fruit, 
and lastly the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a dish set within a 
pan of hot water, until the custard is set. 

Bread Custard Pudding'. — Take one cup of finely powdered bread 
crumbs, one half cup of sugar, one quart of milk, and the beaten yolks of 
three eggs and whites of two. Mix the bread and milk, and when well 
softened, add the beaten yolks, sugar, and lastly the well-beaten whites ; 
beat all together thoroughl}', season with a little grated lemon rind ; place 
the pudding dish in the oven in a pan of hot water, and bake till firm and 
lightly brown. Take from the oven, cover the top with a layer of apple 
marmalade made without sugar, or with some tart fruit jelly ; add to this 
a meringue made of the white of the remaining egg and a tablespoonful of 
sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, and place in the oven a moment to brown 
lightly. 

Fresh fruit, strawberries, raspberries, chopped peaches, currants, 
cherries, or shredded oranges are equally as good as the marmalade or 
jelly for the top dressing, and may be used to vary this pudding in a num- 
ber of different ways. Canned fruits, if well drained from juice, especially 



DESSERTS. 



J-J 



apricots and peaches, are excellent for this purpose. A cocoanut custard 
pudding may be made of the above by flavoring the milk before using, with 
two tablespoonfuls of desiccated cocoanut. Another variety still may be 
made by adding to the first recipe half a cup of Zante currants and the 
same of seedless raisins, or a half cup of finely shredded, tender citron. 

llread and Fig- Pudding'. — Put together two cups of finely grated bread 
crumbs, two cups of milk, one cup of finely chopped figs previously 
steamed or cooked, one fourth cup of sugar, and lastly, two well-beaten 
eggs. Bake in a moderate oven till the custard is set. 

Broad and Apricot Pudding. — Fill a pudding dish with alternate lay- 
ers of bread crumbs and canned apricots well drained from juice. Pour 
over it a custard made with two eggs, one half cup of sugar, and a pint 
of milk. Bake one half hour, or only until the custard is set. Canned 
peaches, to which a teaspoonful of lemon juice has been added after 
draining, may be used in place of apricots. 

Caramel Custard. — Turn one fourth of a cup of sugar into a stewpan, 
and stir it over the fire until it becomes liquid and brown. Scald a cup 
and a half of milk, and add the browned sugar. Beat two eggs thor- 
oughly, add to them one half cup of cold milk, and turn the mixture 
slowly, stirring constantly that no lumps form, into the scalding milk ; 
continue to stir until the custard thitkens. Set away to cool, and serve 
in glasses. 

Carrot Pudding. — Take two cups of carrots, boiled tender and rubbed 
through a colander, one pint of milk, two thirds of a cup of sugar, and 
two well-beaten eggs. Flavor with vanilla, and having beaten all well 
together, turn into an earthen pudding dish ; set the dish in a pan of 
hot water, and place in the oven. Bake only till the custard sets. 

Cocoanut Cornstarcli Pudding. — Simmer a cupful of grated cocoanut 
in a quart of milk for twenty minutes. Strain the milk to remove the 
cocoanut, adding enough more milk to make a full quart. With a small 
portion of it braid smoothly one and one half tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
or rice flour, and put the remainder in a saucepan over the fire. When 
the milk is boiling, add the cornstarch, stirring constantly until it thick- 
ens ; then remove from the fire and cool. • Next add two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a moderate oven, in a dish 
set in a pan of hot water, until the custard is well set. 

Cocoanut Custard. — Flavor a pint of milk with cocoanut, add a table- 
spoohful of sugar and two well-beaten eggs, and boil till set in a double 
boiler or a bowl set in a dish of boiling water. Richer custards may 
be made by using three or four eggs, but the richer the custard the 
more likely it is to curdle and become watery, as well as being less 
wholesome. 



324 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

C'ocoaiiut Rice Custard. — Flavor one quart of milk quite strongly with 
cocoanut, as previously directed. Add to it one and one half cups of 
boiled rice, one cup of raisins, one half cup of sugar, and lastly three 
well-beaten eggs. Set the pudding dish in a pan of hot water, and bake 
till the custard is well set. 

Corn Mp.i1 Pudding'. — Heat a quart of milk lacking two thii-ds of a 
cupful, to boiling. Moisten three tablespoonfuls of nice granulated corn 
meal with the two thirds of a cup of milk, and stir gradually into the boil- 
ing milk. Let it boil up until set, turn into a double boiler, and cook for 
an hour. Then add a tablespoonful of thick sweet cream, one half a cup 
of molasses or sugar, a quart of cold milk, a little salt if desired, and 
lastly, two well- beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly. Pour into a pudding dish 
and bake one hour. A cup of currants or seeded raisins may be used to 
give variety. 

Corn Meal Pudding* No. 2. — Crumble cold corn puffs or corn cake to 
make a cupful ; add a pint of sweet milk, three teaspoonfuls of sugar, the 
yolks of two eggs and the white of one, and bake slowly in a dish set 
inside a pan of hot water for an hour. 

Corn Meal and Fig- Pudding-. — Beat together a scant cup of best sifted 
corn meal with a cupful of molasses, and stir the mixture gradually into a 
quart of boiling milk. Cook ten or twelve minutes, or until well thick- 
ened, then set aside to cool. Add a cupful of finely chopped figs, one and 
two thirds cups of cold milk, part cream if it can be afforded, and when 
the mixture is cool, add two well-beaten eggs. Pour into a pudding dish 
and bake in a moderate, steady oven for three or more hours ; the longer 
the better. When the pudding has baked an hour, pour over it a cupful 
of cold milk. Do not stir the pudding, but allow the milk to soak in grad- 
ually. A pint of finely sliced or chopped sweet apples may be used in 
place of figs for variety, or if preferred, both may be omitted. 

Cornstarch Mering'ue. — Heat one and one half pints of milk to boiling, 
and then stir in gradually two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch which has 
been previously rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. When the starch 
has thickened, allow it partially to cool, and then add, stirring con- 
tinuously meanwhile, the yolks of two eggs which have been previously 
well beaten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let the whole simmer 
for a minute or two longer, turn into a dish, meringue with the whites of 
the eggs, and when cold, dot with lumps of strawberry jelly. 

Cracked Wheat Pudding'. — Beat two cups of cold steamed cracked 
wheat in two cups of rich milk until so thoroughly mingled that no lumps 
remain. Add one cup of canned sweet cherries well drained from juice, 
one half cup of sugar, and two eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately. 
Bake in a slow oven till the custard is set. 



DESSERTS. 325 

Cup Custard. — Into four cups of milk stir the yolks of three eggs and 
one whole one well beaten. Add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and strain 
the mixture into cups; place these in a dripping pan full of hot water, 
grate a little lemon rind over tlu; top of each, and bake in a moderate 
oven. If preferred, the milk may be first flavored with cocoanut. It is 
also better to have the milk nearly hot when stirring in the egg. Half a 
cupful of the milk should be reserved to add to the egg before turning into 
the heated portion. 

Farina Custard. — Flavor a (piart of milk with cocoanut as directed 
on page 298. Cook two tablespoonfuls of farina in the flavored milk for 
twenty minutes, in a double boiler ; then set aside to cool. When nearly 
cold, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the well-beaten yolks of two 
eggs. Beat all together very thoroughly, and lastly stir in the whites 
of the eggs which have been previously beaten to a stiff fi'oth. Bake 
in one dish set inside another filled with hot water, just long enough to 
set the custard. Serve cold. 

Fariua Pudding'. — Take a cup of cold cooked farina and soak it in 
four cups of milk until there are no lumps, or rub through a colander ; 
add two well-beaten eggs, one scant cup of sugar and one cup of raisins ; 
bake in a moderate oven until the custard is well set. 

Floating Island. — Make a custard of a pint of milk flavored with 
cocoanut, and the yolks of three eggs ; sweeten to taste, and steam in 
a double boiler. When done, turn into a glass dish. Have the whites 
of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and drop for a few seconds on the 
top of a pan of scalding hot water, turning so that both sides may be alike 
coagulated but not hardened ; skim off, and put in islands on the top of 
the custard. When quite cold, drop bits of different colored jellies on 
the islands, and keep in a cool place till needed. Or put a spoonful of 
fruit jelly in the bottom of small glasses, and fill with the custard with 
a spoonful of the white on top. 

Fruit Custard. — Heat a pint of red raspberry, strawberry, or currant 
juice to boiling, and stir into it two even tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Stir constantl)^ until thickened, 
then add half a cup of sugar, or less if the fruit juice has been sweetened ; 
take from the fire and stir in the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, stir- 
ring all the time so that the hot mixture will coagulate the egg. Make a 
custard of a pint of milk, the yolks of the three eggs, and three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. When done, set on the ice to cool. Dish in a glass 
dish when cold, placing the fruit mixture by spoonfuls on top, and serve. 

Oraliani (writs Pudding-.— Heat two cups of milk in a double boiler. 
When boiling, stir in one half cup of Graham grits moistened with one 
cup of cold milk. Cook for an hour and a half in a double boiler, then re- 



326 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

move from the fire and cool. Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three 
fourths of a cup of finely chopped apples, and one fourth of a cup of 
chopped raisins, and two well-beaten eggs. Bake three fourths of an 
hour in a moderate oven. 

Gri'Oimd Rice PiuWiiig'. — Simmer a few pieces of thinly cut lemon rind 
or half a cup of cocoanut, very slowly in a quart of milk for twenty min- 
utes, or until the milk is well flavored. Strain the milk through a fine 
strainer to remove the lemon rind or cocoanut, and put into a saucepan 
to boil. Mix four large tablespoonfuls of ground rice smooth with a little 
cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Cook until the whole has thick- 
ened, then set aside to cool. When nearly cold, add two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a gentle oven in a dish 
placed in a pan of hot water, until the whole is lightly browned. 

Lemon Pudding'. — Grate the rind of one lemon ; soften one pint of 
bread crumbs in one quart of sweet milk, add the yolks of two eggs, and 
half a cup of sugar mixed with grated lemon rind. Bake twenty minutes. 
Beat to a froth the whites of the eggs, the juice of the lemon, and half 
a cup of sugar. Spread over the top, and return to the oven for five 
minutes. This may be baked in cups if preferred. 

Lemon Cornstarch Pudding*. — Beat the yolks of two eggs in a pudding 
dish ; add a cupful of sugar ; dissolve four tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
in a little cold water, stir it into two teacupfuls of actively boiling water ; 
when thickened, add the juice of two lemons with a little grated peel ; 
turn over the eggs and sugar, beating well to mix all together, and bake 
about fifteen minutes. If desired, the beaten whites of the eggs may be 
used to meringue the top. Serve either cold or hot. 

Lemon Cornstarcli Pndding- No. 2. — Mix together one half cup of corn- 
starch, one half cup of sugar, the juice and a portion of the grated rind of 
one medium-sized lemon. Add to these ingredients just enough cold water 
to dissolve thoroughly, then pour boiling water over the mixture until it 
becomes thickened and looks transparent. Stir continuously and boil for 
a few minutes until the starch is cooked. Take from the fire, and add 
gradually, with continuous stirring, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. 
Whip the whites of the eggs with a teaspoonful of quince jelly to a stiff 
froth, and pour over the pudding ; then brown in the oven. Orange juice 
with a very little of the grated rind, or pineapple juice may be substituted 
for the lemon, if preferred. 

Macaroni Pudding. — Break sufficient macaroni to make a pint in inch 
lengths, put into a double boiler, turn over it three pints of milk, and cook 
until tender. Turn into a pudding dish, add a pint of cold milk, two thirds 
of a cup of sugar, one egg, and the yolks of two others well beaten. Bake 
from twenty minutes to one half hour. When done, cool a little, spread 



DESSERTS. 327 

the top with some mashed fresh berries or grape marmalade, and meringue 
with the whites of tiie eggs and a tablespoonful of sugar. 

Molded Rice or Snow Balls. — Steam a pint of well-cleaned rice until 
tender, as directed on page 99, and turn into cups previously wet in cold 
water, to mold. When perfectly cold, place in a glass dish, and pour over 
them a cold custard made of a pint of milk, half a cup of sugar, a tea- 
spoonful of cornstarch, and one egg. Or, if preferred, the rice balls may 
be served in individual dishes with the custard sauce, or with a dressing 
of fruit juice. 

Orange Float. — Heat one quart of water, the juice of two lemons, and 
one and one half cupfuls of sugar. When boiling, stir into it four table- 
spoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a very little water. Cook until 
the whole is thickened and clear. When cool, stir into the mixture five 
nice oranges which have been sliced, and freed from seeds and all the 
vvhite portions. Meringue, and serve cold. 

Orang'e Custard. — Turn a pint of hot milk over two cups of stale 
bread crumbs and let them soak until well softened ; add the yolks of 
two eggs, and beat all together until perfectly smooth ; add a little of the 
grated rind and the juice of three sweet oranges, and sugar to taste. 
Lastly add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, turn into cups, 
which place in a moderate oven in a pan of hot water, and bake twenty 
minutes, or until the custard is well set but not watery. 

Orangre Pudding-. — Pare and slice six sweet Florida oranges, remov- 
ing the seeds and all the white skin and fibers. Place in the bottom of 
a glass dish. Make a custard by stirring two tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch braided with a little milk into a pint of boiling milk, and when 
thickened, adding graduall)', stirring constantly meanwhile, one egg and the 
yolk of a second egg well beaten with one fourth cup of sugar. When par- 
tially cool, pour over the oranges. Whip the white of the second egg to 
a stiff froth with one fourth cup of sugar which has been flavored by rub- 
bing over some orange peel, and meringue the top of the pudding. Fresh 
strawberries, raspberries, or peaches may be substituted for oranges in 
making this dessert, if preferred, 

Peacli Mering'ue. — To every pint of stewed or canned peaches, sweet- 
ened to taste, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake in a deep pud- 
ding dish fifteen minutes, then cover with the whites of the two eggs 
beaten till very light with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Brown in the 
oven, and serve cold with whipped cream. For peaches, substitute any 
other stewed fruit desired. 

Picnic Pudding'. — Thicken a pint of strawberrj' or raspberry juice, 
sweetened to taste, with two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, as for 
Fruit Custard. Turn into the bottom of cups previously wet with cold 



328 SCIENCE IN TIIK KITCHEN. 

water, or a large mold, as preferred. In a second dish heat to boiling 
a pint of milk, flavored with cocoanut, to which a tablespoonful of sugar 
has been added. Stir into it two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed 
smooth in a little cold milk, and cook thoroughly. When done, cool 
slightly and turn into the molds on the top of tlie pink portion, which 
should be sufficiently cool so that it will not mix. A third layer may be 
added by cooking two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch and one of sugar, 
rubbed smooth in a little milk, in a pint of boiling milk, and stirring in, 
just as it is taken from the stove, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. 

Plain Cornstarch Pudding'.— Heat to boiling a pint and a half of milk, 
with a few bits of the yellow rind of a lemon to flavor it. While the 
milk is heating, rub four large spoonfuls of cornstarch to a cream with 
half a cup of cold milk ; beat well together the yolks of three eggs, three 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and half a cup of cold milk, and whip the whites 
of the eggs to a stiff froth. When the milk is actively boiling, remove 
the bits of lemon rind with a skimmer, and stir in the starch mixture ; stir 
constantly and boil three or four minutes until the starch is well cooked ; 
then add gradually, stirring well meanwhile, the yolks and sugar. Remove 
from the fire, and stir the beaten whites lightly through the whole. Serve 
with a dressing of fruit juice or fruit syrup ; if in the season of fresh ber- 
ries, the pudding may be dressed with a few spoonfuls of mashed straw- 
berries, raspberries, or currants. 

Plain Custard.— Heat a pint of milk to boihng, and stir in a table- 
spoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little milk ; let the milk and 
starch boil together till they thicken ; then cool and add one well-beaten 
egg and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cook in the oven in a dish set inside 
another filled with hot water, or in a double boiler. The milk may be 
previously flavored with orange, lemon, or cocoanut. 

Prune Pudding-. — Heat two and one half cups of milk to boiling, then 
stir in gradually a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch which has been 
rubbed smooth in a little cold milk ; let this boil and thicken for a minute, 
then remove from the fire. When cool, add three well-beaten eggs, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a cupful of prunes which have been stewed, 
then drained of all juice, the stones removed, and the prunes chopped 
fine. Pour into a pudding dish and bake twenty minutes. Serve with or 
without cream. 

Pinme Whip. — Sift through a colander some stewed sweet California 
prunes which have been thoroughly drained from juice, and from which the 
stones have been removed. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, 
and add two cups of the sifted prunes; beat all together thoroughly; 
turn into a pudding dish, and brown in the oven fifteen minutes. 
Serve cold, with a little cream or custard for dressing. Almond sauce 
also makes an excellent dressing. 



l)ESSKRrs. 329 

Rico Apple Ciislanl Piulding-. — Pare, and remove the cores without 
dividing from a sufficient number of apples to cover the bottom of a two- 
quart pudding dish. Fill the cavities of the apples with a little grated 
lemon rind and sugar, and put them into the oven with a tablespoonful 
of water on tlie bottom of the dish. Cover, and steam till the apples are 
tender, but not fallen to pieces. Then pour over them a custard made 
with two cups of boiled rice, a quart of milk, half a cup of sugar, and 
two eggs. 

Rice Custard Pudding-. — Take one and one half cups of nicely steamed 
rice, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a pint of milk; heat to boiling in a 
saucepan. Then stir in very carefully the yolk of one egg and one whole 
egg, previously well beaten together with a few spoonfuls of milk reserved 
for the purpose. Let the whole boil up till thickened, but not longer, as 
the custard will whey and separate. When partly cool, flavor with a little 
vanilla or lemon, turn into a glass dish, and meringue with the white of 
the second egg beaten to a stiff froth. Cold steamed rice may be used by 
soaking it in hot milk until every grain is separate. 

Rice Snow. — Into a quart of milk heated to boiling, stir five table- 
spoonfuls of rice flour previously braided with a very little cold milk ; add 
one half cup of sugar. Let the whole boil up together till well cooked and 
thickened ; then remove from the stove, and stir in lightly the beaten 
whites of four eggs. Mold, and serve cold with foam sauce. 

Rice Snow witli Jelly. — Steam or bake a teaciipful of best rice in 
milk until the grains are tender. Pile it up on a dish roughly. When 
cool, lay over it squares of jelly. Beat the whites of two eggs and one 
third of a cup of sugar to a stiff froth, and pile like snow over the rice. 
Serve with cream sauce. 

Rice with Eg'g's. — Steam rice as previously directed, and when suffi- 
ciently cooked, stir into half of it while hot, the yolks of one or two eggs 
well beaten with a little sugar. Into the other half, the whites of the 
eggs, sweetened and beaten to a stiff froth, may be lightly stirred while 
the rice is still hot enough to set the eggs. Serve with the yellow half in 
the bottom o,f the dish, and the white part piled on top covered with 
whipped cream flavored with lemon or vanilla. 

Snow Pudding'. — Heat one half pint each of water and milk together, 
to boiling, stir into this a tablespoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a 
little cold milk, and cook for five minutes. Cool partially and add the 
whites of two well-beaten eggs. Turn into molds and set in the ice bo.x to 
cool. Serve with a cream made by stirring into a half pint of boiling milk 
the yolks of two eggs, a teaspoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a lit- 
tle cold milk, and half a cup of sugar. Cook until well thickened. Cool 
and flavor w ith a little lemsn or vanilla. Or, if preferred, serve with a 
dressing of fruit juice. 



330 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Steamed Custard. — Heat a pint of milk, with which has been well 
beaten two eggs and one third of a cup of sugar, in a double boiler until 
well thickened. When done, turn into a glass dish, and grate a little of 
the yellow rind of lemon over the top to flavor. If desired to have the 
custard in cups, remove from the fire when it begins to thicken, turn 
into cups, and finish in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water. 

Strawberry Charlotte. — Fit slices of nice plain buns (those made 
according to recipe on page 347 are nice for this) in the bottom of a 
pudding dish, and cover with a layer of hulled strawberries ; add another 
layer of the buns cut in slices, a second layer of strawberries, and then 
more slices of buns. Make a custard in the following manner : Heat a 
scant pint of milk to boiling in the inner cup of a double boiler, and stir 
into it gradually, beating thoroughly at the same time, an egg which has 
been previously well beaten with half a cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
cornstarch, and a spoonful or two of milk until perfectly smooth. Cook 
together in the double boiler until well set. Cool partially, and pour over 
the buns and strawberries. Place a plate with a weight upon it on the 
top of the charlotte, and set away to cool. 

Pop Com Pudding-. — Take a scant pint of the pop corn which is 
ground and put up in boxes, or if not available, freshly popped corn, 
rolled fine, is just as good. Add to it three cups of new milk, one half 
cup of sugar, two whole eggs and the yolk of another, well beaten. Bake 
in a pudding dish placed inside another filled with hot water, till the 
custard is set. Cover with a meringue made of the remaining white of 
egg, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a sprinkling of the pop corn. 

Sag'O Custard Pudding-. — Put one half cup of sago and a quart of rich 
milk into the inner cup of a double boiler, or a basin set inside a pan of 
boiling water, and let it simmer until the sago has thickened the milk and 
become perfectly transparent. Allow it to cool, then add a cup of sugar, 
two well-beaten eggs, and a little of the grated rind of a lemon. Turn 
into a pudding dish, and bake only till the custard has set. 

Sago and Fruit Custard Pudding-. — Soak six tablespoonfuls of sago in 
just enough water to cover it, for twenty minutes. Meanwhile pare and 
remove the cores from half a dozen or more tart apples, and fill the cavi- 
ties with a mixture of grated lemon rind and sugar. Place the apples in 
the bottom of a pudding dish, with a tablespoonful of water ; cover, and 
set in the oven to bake. Put the soaked sago with a^quart of milk into 
a double boiler. Let it cook until the sago is clear and thick ; then add 
three fourths of a cup of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Pour the sago 
custard over the apples, which should be baked tender but not mushy. 
Put the pudding dish in the oven in a pan of hot water, and bake till the 
custard is well set. Serve cold. 



DESSERTS. 331 

Snowball Custard. — Flavor a pint of milk by steepiiij; in it three or 
four slices of the yellow rind of a lemon for twenty minutes or more. 
Skim out the rind ; let the milk come to the boiling point, and drop into 
it the well-beaten whites of two eggs, in tablespoonfuls, turning each 
one over carefully, allowing them to remain only long enough to become 
coagulated but not hardened, and then place the balls upon a wire sieve 
to drain. Afterward stir into the scalding milk the yolks of the eggs 
and one whole one well beaten, together with two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
Stir until it thickens. Pour this custard into a glass dish, and lay the 
white balls on top. 

Tapioca Ciistar<l. — Soak a cup of pearl tapioca over night in sufficient 
water to cover. When ready to prepare the custard, drain off the water 
if any remain, and add one quart of milk to the tapioca ; place in a 
double boiler and cook until transparent ; then add t!ie well-beaten yolks 
of three eggs or the yolks of two and one whole one, mixed with three 
fourths of a cup of sugar. Let it cook a few minutes, just long enough 
for the custard to thicken and no more, or it will whey and be spoiled ; 
flavor with a little vanilla and turn into a glass dish. Cover the top 
with the whites beaten stiffly with a tablespoonful of sugar, and dot 
with bits of jelly, or colored sugar prepared by mixing sugar with cran- 
berry or raspberry juice and allowing it to diy. For variety, the cus- 
tard may be flavored with grated lemon rind and a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice whipped up with the whites of the eggs, or other flavor 
may be dispensed with, and the meringue flavored by beating a table- 
spoonful of (luinre jelly with the whites of the eggs. 

Tapioca Piiddingf. — Soak a cupful of tapioca over night in 'just enough 
water to cover. In the morning, add to it one quart of milk, and cook 
in a double boiler until transparent. Add three eggs well beaten, one 
half cup of sugar, one half cup of chopped raisins, and a very little 
chopped citron. Bake till the custard is set. Serve warm or cold as 
preferred. 

Vermicelli Pudding-. — Flavor two iind one half cups of milk with 
lemon as directed on page 229. Drop into it, when boiling, four ounces 
of vermicelli, crushing it lightly with one hand while sprinkling it in, and 
stir to keep it from gathering in lumps. Let it cook gently in a double 
boiler, stirring often until it is tender and very thick. Then pour it into 
a pudding dish, let it cool, and add a tablespoonful of rather thick sweet 
cream if you have it (it does very well without), half a cup of sugar, and 
lastly, two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a moderately hot oven till browned 
over the top. 

Wliite Custard. — Beat together thoroughly one cup of milk, the whites 
of two eggs, one tablespoonful of sugar, and one and one half tablespoon- 



332 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

fuls of aliiiondiiie. Tui^n into cups and steam or l:)ake until the custard 
is set. 

White Custard No. 2. — Cook a half cup of farina in a quart of milk in 
a double boiler, for an hour. Remove from the stove, and allow it to be- 
come partially cool, then add one half cup of sugar, the whites of two 
eggs, and one half the yolk of one egg. Turn into a pudding dish, and 
bake twenty minutes or until the custard is well set. 

STEAMED PUDDIJVG. 

The following precautions are necessary to be observed in 
steaming puddings or desserts of any sort : — 

1. Have the water boiling rapidly when the pudding is 
placed in the steamer, and keep it constantly boiling. 

2. Replenish, if needed, with boiling water, never with 
cold. 

3. Do not open the steamer and let in the air upon the 
pudding, until it is done. 

REC/PES. 

Batter Pudding'. — Beat four eggs thoroughly ; add to them a pint of 
milk, and if desired, a little salt. Sift a teacupful of flour and add it grad- 
ually to the milk and eggs, beating lightly the while. Then pour the 
whole mixture through a fine wire strainer into a small pail with cover, in 
which it can be steamed. This straining is imperative. The cover of the 
pail should be tight fitting, as the steam getting into the pudding spoils 
it. Place the pail in a kettle of boiling water, and do not touch or 
move it until the pudding is done. It takes exactly an hour to cook. If 
moved or jarred during the cooking, it will be likely to fall. Slip it out of 
the pail on a hot dish, and serve with cream sauce. A double boiler with 
tightly fitting cover is excellent for cooking this pudding. 

Bread and Frnit Custard.— Soak a cupful of finely grated bread 
crumbs in a pint of rich milk heated to scalding. Add two thirds of a 
cup of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of half a lemon. When cool, 
add two eggs well beaten. Also two cups of canned apricots or peaches 
drained of juice, or, if preferred, a mixture of one and one half cups of 
chopped apples, one half cup of raisins, and a little citron. Turn into 
a pudding dish, and steam in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water for 
two hours. The amount of sugar necessary will vary somewhat accord- 
ing to the fruit used. 



DESSERTS. 333 

Date Pudding. — Turn a cup of hot milk over two cups of stale bread 
c rumbs, and soak until softened ; add one half cup of cream and one cup 
of chopped and stoned dates. Mix all thoroughly together. Put in a 
china dish and steam for three hours. Serve hot with lemon sauce. 

Rico Balls. — Steam one cup of rice till tender. Wring pudding cloths 
about ten inches stjuare out of hot water, and spread tlie rice one third of 
an inch thick over the clotli. Put a stoned peach or apricot from which 
the skin has been removed, in the center, filling the cavity in each half of 
the fruit with rice. Draw up the cloth until the rice smoothly envelops the 
fruit, tie, and steam ten or fifteen minutes. Remove the cloth carefully, 
turn out into saucers, and serve with sauce made from peach or apricot 
juice. Easy-cookuig tart apples may also be used. Steam them thirty 
minutes, and serve with sugar and cream. 

Steamed Bread Custard. — Cut stale bread in slices, removing hard 
crusts. Oil a deep pudding mold, and sprinkle the bottom and sides with 
Zante currants; over these place a layer of the slices of bread, sprinkled 
with currants ; add several layers, sprinkling each with the currants in the 
same manner. Cover with a custard made by beating together three or 
four eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one quart of milk. Put the 
pudding in a cool place for three hours ; at the end of that time, steam 
one and a quarter hours. Serve with mock cream flavored with vanilla. 
Apple marmalade may be used to spread between the slices in place of 
currants, if preferred. 

Steamed T\^ Puddins^-. — Moisten two cupfuls of finely grated Graham 
bread crumbs with half a cup of thin sweet cream. Mix into it a heaping 
cupful of finely chopped fresh figs, and a quarter of a cup of sugar. Add 
lastly a cup of sweet milk. Turn all into a pudding dish, and steam about 
two and one half hours. Serve as soon as done, with a little cream for 
dressing, or with orange or lemon sauce. 



PASTRY AND CAKE. 

So much has been said and written about the dietetic evils 
of these articles that their very names have become almost 
synonymous with indigestion and dyspepsia. That they are 
prolific causes of this dire malady cannot be denied, and it is 
doubtless due to two reasons ; first, because they are generally 
compounded of ingredients which are in themselves unwhole- 
some, and rendered doubly so by their combination ; and sec- 
ondly, because tastes have become so perverted that an excess 



334 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of these articles is consumed in preference to more simple and 
nutritious food. 

As has been elsewhere remarked, foods containing an ex- 
cess of fat, as do most pastries and many varieties of cake, are 
exceedingly difficult of digestion, the fat undergoing in the 
stomach no changes which answer to the digestion of other 
elements of food, and its presence interferes with the action 
of the gastric juice upon other elements. In consequence, di- 
gestion proceeds very slowly, if at all, and the delay often 
occasions fermentative and putrefactive changes in the entire 
contents of the stomach. 

It is the indigestibility of fat, and this property of delaying 
the digestion of other foods, chiefly that render pastry and 
cakes so deleterious to health. 

We do not wish to be understood as in sympathy with that 
class of people who maintain that dyspepsia is a disciplinary 
means of grace, "when, after having made the previous state- 
ment, we proceed to present recipes for preparing the very 
articles we have condemned. Pie and cake are not necessa- 
rily utterly unwholesome ; and if prepared in a simple manner, 
may be partaken of in moderation by persons with good di- 
gestion. Nevertheless, they lack the wholesomeness of more 
simple foods, and we most fully believe that would women 
supply their tables with perfectly light, sweet, nutritious bread 
and plenty of fruit, the continual demand for cakes and pies 
would cease. However, if pies and cakes must needs be, make 
them as simple as possible. 

General Suggestions for Making Pies. — Always pre- 
pare the filling for pies before making the crust, if the filling 
is to be cooked in the crust. Have all the material for the 
crust on the table, measured and in readiness, before begin- 
ning to put together. Follow some of the simple recipes given 
in these pages. Have all the material cold, handle the least 
possible to make it into a mass, and do not knead at all. 

When the crust is ready, roll it out quickly to about one 
half inch in thickness, then fold up like a jelly roll, and cut 



DESSERTS. 335 

from the end only sufficient for one crust at a time. Lay this, 
the flat side upon the board, and roll evenly in every direction, 
until scarcely more than an eighth of an inch in thickness, and 
somewhat larger than the baking plate, as it will shrink when 
lifted from the board. 

Turn one edge over the rolling pin, and carefully lift it 
onto the plate. If there is to be an upper crust, roll that in the 
same manner, make a cut in the center to allow the steam to 
escape, fill the pie, slightly rounding it in the center, and 
lift on the upper crust ; press both edges lightly together ; 
then, lifting the pie in the left hand, deftly trim away all over- 
hanging portions of crust with a sharp knife ; ornament the 
edge if desired, and put at once into the oven, which should 
be in readiness at just the right temperature, a rather moder- 
ate oven being best for pies. 

The under crust of lemon, pumpkin, custard, and very juicy 
fruit pies, filled before baking, is apt to become saturated and 
softened with the liquid mixture, if kept for any length of time 
after baking. This may be prevented in a measure by glazing 
the crust, after it is rolled and fitted on the plate, with the 
beaten white of an egg, and placing in the oven just a moment 
to harden the egg before filling ; or if the pic is one of fruit, 
sprinkle the crust with a little flour and sugar, brushing the 
two together with the hand before adding the filling. During 
the baking, the flour and melted sugar will adhere together, 
tending to keep the juice from contact with the crust. 

Pies are more wholesome if the crusts are baked separately 
and filled for use as needed. This is an especially satisfactory 
way to make pies of juicy fruit, as it docs away largely with 
the saturated under crusts, ^nd the flavor of the fruit can be 
retained much more perfectly. Pies with one crust can be 
made by simply fitting the crust to the plate, pricking it 
lightly with a fork to prevent its blistering while baking, and 
afterward filling when needed for the table. For pies with 
two crusts, fit the under crust to the plate, and fill with clean 
pieces of old white linen laid in lightly to support the upper 



336 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

crust. When baked, slip the pie on a plate, lift off the upper 
crust, take out the pieces of cloth, and just before serving, fill 
with fruit, which should be previously prepared. 

Canned peaches filled into such a crust make a delicious pie. 
Strawberries, cherries, gooseberries, and other juicy fruits, that 
lose so much of their flavor in baking, may be lightly scalded, 
the juice thickened a little with flour if desired, sweetened to 
taste, and filled into such a crust. An excellent pie may be 
made in this manner from apples, stewed carefully so as to 
keep the slices whole, sweetened to taste, and flavored with 
lemon, orange, or grated pineapple. One pineapple will be 
sufficient for four pies. Fresh fruit for filling may be used 
without cooking, if desired. If desired, several crusts may be 
baked and put away unfilled. When needed, the crusts may 
be placed for a few minutes in a hot oven until heated through, 
then filled with freshly prepared fruit. 

In preparing material for custard or pumpkin pies, if the 
milk used be hot, the pies will be improved and the time of 
baking be considerably shortened. 

Tin or granite^ware plates are preferable to earthen ones 
for pies, as they bake better on the bottom. The perforated 
pans are superior in some respects. No greasing is needed ; 
simply rub them well with flour. The time required for bak- 
ing pies varies from one half to three fourths of an hour. The 
dampers should be so adjusted as to bake the bottom crust first. 

After baking, remove at once to heated earthen plates, or 
set the tins upon small supports, so that the air can circulate 
underneath them. 

RECIPES. 

Paste for Pies. — Sift together equal parts of Graham grits and white 
flour ( Graham flour will do if the grits are not obtainable, but the grits 
will produce a more crisp and tender crust), and wet with very cold, thin 
sweet cream. Have the flour also as cold as possible, since the colder 
the material, the more crisp the paste ; mix together very quickly into a 
rather stiff dough. Do not knead at all, but gather the fragments lightly 
together, roll out at once, fill and bake quickly, since much of the light- 
ness of the crust depends upon the dispatch with which the pie is gotten 



DESSERTS. 337 

into the oven after the materials are thrown together. If for any reason it 
is necessary to defer the baking, phice the crust in the ice-chest till needed. 

Corn Meal Criist. — Equal parts of sifted white corn meal and flour, 
mixed together lightly with rather thin sweet cream which has been set 
in the ice-chest until very cold, makes a very good crust. 

Grauola ("rust. — For certain pies requiring an under crust only, the 
prepared granola manufactured by the Sanitarium Food Co. makes a 
superior crust. To pi-epare, moisten with thin sweet cream — one half 
cup of cream for every two thirds cup of granola is about the right pro- 
portion, and will make sufficient crust for one pie. Flour the board, and 
lift the moistened granola onto it, spreading it as much as possible with 
the hands. Dredge lightly with flour over the top, and roll out gently to 
the required size without turning. The material, being coarse and granu- 
lar, will break apart easily, but may be as easily pi'essed together with the 
fingers. Change the position of the rolling pin often, in order to shape the 
crust without moving it. When well rolled, carefully slip a stiff paper 
under it, first loosening from the board with a knife if necessary, and lift it 
gently onto the pan. Press together any cracks, trim the edges, fill, and 
bake at once. Use the least flour })ossible in preparing this crust, and 
bake as soon as made, before the moisture has become absorbed. Such 
a crust is not suited for custard or juicy fruit pies, but filled with prune, 
peach, or apple marmalade, it makes a most delicious and wholesome pie. 
A cooked custard may be used in such a crust. 

Paste for Tart Shells. — Take one half cup of rather thin sweet 
cream, which has been placed on ice until very cold ; add to it the stiffly 
beaten whites of two eggs, and whip all together briskly for ten minutes. 
Add sufficient white flour to roll. Cut into the required shape, bake 
quickly, but do not brown. Fill after baking. This paste, rolled thin 
and cut into shapes with a cooky cutter, one half of them baked plain for 
under crusts, the other half ornamented for tops by cutting small holes 
with a thimble or some fancy mold, put together with a layer of some sim- 
ple fruit jelly between them, makes a most attractive-looking dessert. It 
is likewise very nice baked in little patty pans, and afterward filled with 
apple or peach marmalade, or any of the following fillings : — 

Cream Filling-. — One cup of rich milk (part cream if it can be 
afforded) heated to boiling. Into this stir one scant tablesjioonful of 
flour previously braided smooth with a little cold milk. Add to this the 
well-beaten yolk of one egg and one tablespoonful of sugar. Turn this 
mixture into the hot milk and stir until it thickens. Flavor with a little 
grated lemon rind, vanilla, or, if preferred, flavor the milk with cocoanut 
before using. Fill the tart shells, and meringue with the white of the egg 
beaten stiff with a tablespoonful of sugar. 

2? 



338 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Grape Tart. — Into one i)int of canned or fresh grape juice, when boil- 
ing, stir two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch braided with a Httle water, and 
cook for five minutes. Sweeten to taste, and fill a baked crust. 

Lemon Filling. — Into one cup of boiling water stir one tablespoonful 
of cornstarch previously braided smooth with the. juice of a large lemon. 
Cook until it thickens, then add one half cup of sugar and a little grated 
yellow rind of the lemon. 

Tapioca Filling-. — Soak one tablespoonful of tapioca over night in one 
cup of water ; mash and stir the tapioca, simmer gently until clear and 
thick, adding enough water to cook it well ; add half a cup of white sugar 
and a tablespoonful each of lemon and orange juice. If desired, a little 
raspberry or currant juice may be added to make the jelly of a pink color. 

Apple Custard Pie. — Stew good dried apples till perfectly tender and 
there remains but very little juice. Rub through a colander. For each 
pie use one cup of the sifted apples, one and a half cups of rich milk, two 
eggs, five tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a little grated lemon rind for flavor- 
ing. Bake with under crust only. Stewed fresh apples, beaten smooth 
or rubbed through a colander, can be used if preferred. The eggs may be 
omitted, and one half cup more of the sifted apples, with more sugar, may 
be used instead. 

Banana Pie. — For each pie required prepare a custard with one and 
one half cups of milk, the yolks of two eggs, and two heaping tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar. Mash two large bananas through a colander, strain the 
custard over them, and beat well together. Bake in an under crust only, 
and meringue the top with the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth 
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

Bread Pie. — Soak a slice of very light bread in a pint of rich milk. 
When it is quite soft, rub through a colander and afterward beat well 
through the milk. Add one well-beaten egg, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
and a little grated lemon rind for flavor. Bake with under crust only, 
till the custard is set. This is sufficient for one pie. 

Carrot Pie. — Boil, drain, and rub the carrots through a colander. For 
each pie required, use two large tablespoonfuls of carrot thus prepared, 
two eggs, two cups of milk, a little salt if desired, four tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, and lemon or vanilla for flavoring. Bake with under crust only. 

Cocoannt Pie. — Flavor a pint of milk with two tablespoonfuls of desic- 
cated, or finely grated fresh cocoannt according to directions on page 298 ; 
strain, and add enough fresh milk to make a pint in all. Add three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, heat, and as the milk comes to a boil, add a table- 
spoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Boil for a 
minute or two till the cornstarch thickens the milk ; then remove from 
the stove. Allow it to get cold, and then stir in one well-beaten egg ; bake 



DESSERTS. 



339 



in au under crust. Tie a tablespoouful of desiccated cocoanut in a clean 
clotli, and pound it as fine as flour ; mix it with a tablespoouful of sugar 
and the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth. When the pie is done, 
spread this over tlie top, and brown in the oven for a moment only. 

Cocoanut Pic >o. 2. — Steep one half cup of cocoanut in a pint of milk 
for one half hour. Strani out the cocoanut and add sufficient fresh milk 
to make a pint. Allow it to become cold, then add a quarter of a cup of 
sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Bake with an under crust only. When 
done, the top may be covered with a meringue the same as in the preced- 
ing recipe. 

Cream Pic. — For one pie beat together one egg, one half cup of sugar, 
one tablespoouful of flour, and two cups of rich milk. Bake in one crust. 

Cranberry Pic. — Stew a quart of cranberries until broken in a pint of 
boiling water. Rub through a colander to remove the skins, add two cups 
of sugar and one half cup of sifted flour. ~Bake with under crust only. 

Dried Apple Pie. — Stew good dried apples till perfectly tender in as 
small a quantity of water as possible. When done, rub through a colan- 
der ; they should be about the consistency of fruit jam ; if not, a little 
flour may be added. Sweeten to taste, fill under crusts with the mix- 
ture, and bake. If lemon flavor is liked, a few pieces of the yellow rind 
may be added to' the apples a little while before they are tender. If 
the apples are especially tasteless, lemon juice or some sour apple jelly 
should be added after rubbing through the colander. The crusts may 
first be baked, and filled with the mixture when needed ; in which case 
the sauce should be simmered lightly till of the desired consistency. 
The top may be ornamented with strips or rings of crust, if desired. 

Dried Apple Pie with Raisins. — Rub a quart of well-stewed dried 
apples through a colander, add a cupful of steamed raisins, sugar to 
sweeten, and bake with two crusts. This is sufficient for two pies. 

Dried Api-icot Pie. — Stew together one third dried apricots and two 
thirds dried apples or peaches. When soft, rub through a colander, add 
gugar to sweeten, and if very juicy, stew again until the juice is mostly 
evaporated ; then beat until light and bake in a granola crust. 

Farina Pie. — Cook one fourth cup of farina in a double boiler for an 
hour in three cups of rich milk. Allow it to become cool, then add one 
half cup of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, and a little grated lemon rind. 
Bake with under crust only. Meringue the top with the white of the egg 
beaten to a stiff froth with one tablespoouful of sugar and a little grated 
lemon rind for flavoring. The quantity given is sufficient for two small 
pies. 

Fruit Pies. — Apples, peaches, and all small fruits and berries may be 
made into palatable pies without rich crusts or an excess of sugar, or the 



340 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

addition of unwholesome spices and flavorings. Bake the crust sepa- 
rately, and fill when needed with prepared fruit ; or, fill with the fruit, 
using only sufficient sugar to sweeten ; add no spices, and bake quickly. 
Prepare apples for pies by paring, coring, and dividing in eighths. Peaches 
are best prepared in a similar manner. Fill crusts in which the fruit is 
to be baked quite full and slightly heaping in the center. If flavoring is 
desired, let it be that of some other fruit. For apple pies, a teaspoonful 
or two of pineapple juice, a little grated lemon or orange peel, or a little 
strawberry or quince syrup, may be used for flavoring. For pies made 
of apples, peaches, and fruits which are not very juicy, add a tablespoon- 
ful or so of water or fruit juice ; but for very juicy fruits and berries, 
dredge the under crust with a tablespoonful of sugar and a little flour 
mixed together before filling, or stir a spoonful of flour into the fruit so 
that each berry or piece may be separately floured. 

Grape Jelly Pie. — Cook perfectly ripe, purple grapes ; rub them 
through a colander to remove the seeds and skins. Return the pulp to 
the fire and thicken with rice flour or cornstarch, to the consistency of 
thick cream or jelly, and sweeten to taste. Fill an under crust with the 
mixture, and bake. The top may be ornamentedwith pastry cut in fancy 
shapes if desired. 

Jelly Custard Pie. — Dissolve three tablespoonfuls of nice, pure fruit 
jelly in very little warm water, add one and one half cups of milk and two 
well-beaten eggs, stirring the whites m last. Bake with under crust only. 
Jellies are usually so sweet that no sugar is needed. Apple, raspberry, 
currant, strawberry, and quince jellies all make nice pies, prepared in 
this way. 

Lemou Pie. — Take four tablespoonfuls of lemon juice (one large lemon 
or two small ones will yield about this quantity), the grated yellow por- 
tion only of the rind of half a lemon, and two thirds of a cup of sugar. 
Beat the lemon juice and sugar together. Braid a slightly heaping table- 
spoonful of cornstarch with as little water as possible, and pour over it, 
stirring constantly, one half pint of boiling water, to thicken the starch. 
Add the lemon and sugar to the starch, and let it cool ; then stir m the 
yolks of two eggs and half the white of one, well beaten together. Beat 
thoroughly, pour into a deep crust, and bake. When done, cover with 
the remaining whites of the eggs, beaten with one and a half tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, and brown lightly in the oven. 

Lemou Meriugue Custard. — Heat two cups of milk to boiling, add a 
tablespoonful of cornstarch well braided with a little cold milk ; let the 
whole simmer till thickened, stirring constantly. Allow it to cool, add 
one third of a cup of sugar and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake in an 
under crust, and cover with a meringue made of the whites of the eggs 



DESSERTS. 341 

beaten to a stiif froth with two tablespoonfuls of sugar mixed with grated 
lemon peel. If liked, a spoonful of lemon juice may be added, a few drops 
at a time, during the beating of the meringue. 

One-Crust Peach Pie. — Pare and remove the stones from ripe, nice 
flavored peaches ; stew till soft in the smallest quantity of water possible 
without burning. Rub through a colander, or beat smooth with a large 
spoon. Add sugar as required. Bake with one crust. If the peach 
sauce is evaporated until quite dry, it is very nice baked in a granola 
crust. When done, meringue with the whites of two eggs whipped stiff 
with two taI:)lespoonfuls of sugar. The flavor is improved by adding by 
degrees to the egg while whipping, a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Re- 
turn to the oven and brown lightly. Serve cold. 

Canned peaches or stewed dried peaches may be used in place of the 
fresh ones. In using the dried peaches, carefully e.xamine and wash ; 
soak them over night in cold water, and stew them in the same water 
until soft enough to rub through the colander. For each pie, add two 
tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, and sufficient sugar to sweeten ; too 
much sugar destroys the flavor of the fruit. Evaporated peaches, soaked 
over night and stewed carefully until tender, then removed from the 
syrup, which may be sweetened and boiled until thick and rich and 
afterward turned over the peaches, makes a delicious pie. Bake in 
one crust, with or without a meringue. 

Oraiigre Pie. — Rub smooth a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch in 
three tablespoonfuls of water ; pour over it a cup of boiling water, and 
cook until clear, stirring frequently that no lumps form. Add one cupful 
of sour orange juice, a little grated rind, and the juice of one lemon, with 
sugar to taste. Lastly, when quite cool, stir in the well-beaten yolks of 
two eggs. Bake with under crust only. Meringue the top when baked, 
with the whites of the eggs well beaten with a tablespoonful of sugar, and 
a very little grated orange peel sprinkled over it. 

Peach Custard Pie. — Cover a pie plate with an under crust. Take 
fresh peaches, pare, halve, and stone them, and place a layer, hollow 
side up, in the pie. Prepare a custard with one egg, one cup of milk, 
and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pour the custard over the peaches, 
and bake. If the quantity given will not entirely cover the peaches, a 
little more must be prepared. Canned peaches which are not broken can 
be used instead of fresh ones. The pieces should be drained free from 
juice, and less sugar used. 

Prune Pie. — Prepare and cook sweet California prunes as directed 
for Prune Marmalade. Fill an under crust and bake. The top may be or- 
namented with strips of crust or pastry leaves ; or. if desired, may be 
meringued with the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth with two 



342 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

tablespoonfuls of sugar and a little grated lemon peel. This pie is excel- 
lent baked in a granola crust. 

Piimpkiu Pie. — To prepare the pumpkin, cut into halves, remove the 
seeds, divide into moderately small pieces, and bake in the oven until 
thoroughly done. Then scrape from the shell, rub through a colander, 
and proceed as follows : For one and one third pints of the cooked pump- 
kin use one quart of hot, rich, sweet milk. Add one half cup of sugar and 
the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, beat well together, add the whites of 
the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and beat thoroughly. Line the tins with 
a stiff cream paste, fill, and bake in a moderate oven till the pies are 
barely firm in the center, or till the custard is well set. 

Pnmpkiu Pie No. 2. — For each pie desired, take one half pint of 
baked pumpkin, a pint of rich milk, one third of a cup of sugar, and two 
eggs. Mix the sugar and eggs, add the pumpkin, and lastly the milk, 
which should be hot, and beat all together with an egg beater until very 
light. Fill the crust, and bake slowly, 

Pnmpkiu Pie mtlioiit Eg'g'S. — Prepare the pumpkin as previously di- 
rected. For two medium-sized pies, heat a pint and a half of milk in a 
farina kettle, and when scalding, stir into it two scant tablespoonfuls of 
white flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Cook, stirring often, until it 
thickens. Add half a cup of sugar, or a little less of syrup, to a pint and a 
half of the sifted pumpkin, and after beating well together, stir this into the 
hot milk. Bake in an under crust ; or, for three pies, take one quart and a 
cupful of pumpkin, three fourths of a cup of sugar, two thirds of a cup of 
best New Orleans molasses, and three pints of hot milk. Beat all together 
thoroughly. Line deep plates with a cream crust, and bake an hour and 
a half in a moderate oven. 

Simple Custard Pie. — For one pie, take one pint of milk, two well- 
beaten eggs, one third of a cup of sugar, and a little grated lemon rind for 
flavor. Bake in an under crust. If eggs are scarce, a very good pie can 
be made by using onlj' one egg, and a tablespoonful of cornstarch, with 
the above proportions of milk and sugar ; in which case, heat the milk to 
scalding, stir in the cornstarch, and cook till thickened ; cool, and then 
add the well-beaten egg. If preferred, the crust may be baked before fill- 
ing, and the custard steamed, meanwhile. 

Squasli Pie. — Squash prepared as directed for pumpkin, and flavored 
with rose water, makes an excellent pie. Or, for each pie desired, take one 
pint of rich milk ( part cream if it can be afforded ), add one cup of nicely 
baked mealy squash which has been rubbed through a colander, one third 
of a cup of sugar, and two well-beaten eggs. Beat all together thoroughly. 
Bake in a deep pan slowly and carefully until firm. 



DESSEUTfi. 343 

Squash Pie without Eg-g-s. — Bake the squash in the shell ; when done, 
remove with a spoon and mash tlirough a colander. For one pie, take 
eight tablespoonfuls of the squash, half a cup of sugar, and one and one 
third cups of boiling milk. Pour the milk slowly over the squash, beating 
rapidly meanwhile to make the mixture light. Bake in one crust. 

Sweet-apple Tustard Pie. — Into one pint of new milk, grate three ripe 
sweet apples (Golden Sweets are excellent); add two well-beaten eggs, 
and sugar to taste. Bake with undev crust only. 

Sweet Potato Pie. — Bake sufficient sweet potatoes to make a pint of 
pulp when rubbed through a colander ; add a pint of rich milk, a scant cup 
of sugar, salt if desired, the yolks of two eggs, and a little grated lemon 
rind for flavor. Bake with under crust. Wlien done, meringue with the 
whites of the eggs beaten up with a tablespoonful of sugar. 

CAKE. 

General Suggestions. — Always sift the flour for cake 
before measurinf^ out the amount required. Use the best 
granulated white sugar. Eggs for use in cake are better to 
have the }^oll<s and whites beaten separately. Beat the former 
until they cease to froth and begin to thicken as if mixed with 
flour. Beat the whites until stiff enough to remain in the 
bowl if inverted. Have the eggs and dishes cool, and if prac- 
ticable, beat in a cool room. Use earthen or china bowls to 
beat eggs in. 

If fruit is to be used, it should be washed and dried accord- 
ing to directions given on page 298, and then dusted with flour, 
a dessert-spoonful to the pound of fruit, h'or use in cup cake 
or any other cake which requires a quick baking, raisins should 
be first steamed. If you have no patent steamer, place them 
in a close covered dish within an ordinary steamer, and cook 
for an hour over a kettle of boiling water. This should be 
done the day before they are to be used. 

Use an earthen or granite-ware basin for mixing cake. Be 
very accurate in measuring the materials, and have them all 
at hand and all utensils ready before beginning to put the cake 
together. If it is to be baked at once, see that the oven also 
is at just the right temperature. It should be less hot for cake 



344 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

than for bread. Thin cakes require a hotter oven than those 
baked in loaves. They require from fifteen to twenty minutes 
to bake ; thicker loaves, from thirty to sixty minutes. For 
loaf cakes the o\en should be at such a temperature that dur- 
ing the first half of the time the cake will have risen to its full 
height and just begun to brown. 

The recipes given require neither baking powder, soda, nor 
saleratus. Yeast and air can be made to suppl)' the necessary 
lightness, and their use admits of as great a variety in cakes as 
will be needed on a hygienic bill of fare. 

In making cake with yeast, do not use very thick cream, as 
a rich, oily batter retards fermentation and makes the cake 
slow in rising. If the cake browns too quickly, protect it by 
a covering of paper. If necessary to move a cake in the oven, 
do it very gently. Do not slam the oven door or in any way 
jar a cake while baking, lest it fall. Line cake tins with paper 
to prevent burning the bottom and edges. Oil the paper, not 
the tins, ver}- light!}-. Cake is done when it shrinks from the 
pan and stops hissing, or when a clean straw run into the 
thickest part comes up clean. 

As soon as possible after baking, remove from the pan, as, if 
allowed to remain in the pan, it is apt to become too moist. 

RECIPES. 

Apple Cake. — Scald a cup of thin cream and cool to blood heat, add 
one and a half cups of sifted white flour, one fourth of a cup of sugar, 
and a gill of liquid yeast or one half cake of compressed yeast dissolved 
in a giJl of thin cream. Beat well together, set in a warm place, and let 
it rise till perfectly light. When well risen, add one half cup of sugar 
mixed with one half cup of warm flour. Beat well and set in a warm 
place to rise again. When risen a second time, add two eggs, whites 
and j'olks beaten separately, and about one tablespoonful of flour. Turn 
the whole into three round shallow baking tins, which have been previ- 
ously oiled and warmed, and place where it will rise again for an hour, 
or until it is all of a foam. Bake quickly in a moderately hot oven. 
Make this the day before it is needed, and when ready to use prepare 
a filling as follows : Beat together the whites of two eggs, one half cup 
of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and two large tart apples well grated. 



DESSERTS. 345 

Heat in a farina kettle until all are hot ; cool, and spread between tlie 
layers of cake. This should be eaten the day the filling is prepared. 

Cocoanut €ustanl Cake.— Make the cake as directed in the preceding 
recipe. For the filling, prepare a soft custard by heating just to tiie boil- 
ing point one pint of rich milk previously flavored with cocoanut ; into 
which stir a tablespoonfiil of cornstarch braided with a little milk, and 
let it boil until thickened. Beat together an egg and one third of a cup 
of sugar, and turn the hot mixture slowly over it, stirring constantly till 
the custard thickens. When cold, spread between the layers of raised cake. 

Cream Cake. — Prepare the cake as above. Spread between the layers 
when cold a cream made as follows : Stir into one half pint of boiling milk 
two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Take 
out a little of the hot milk, and mix gradually with one egg well beaten 
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar; return to the rest of the custard and 
cook, stirring constantly until quite thick. Cool and flavor with a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla or rose water. 

Delicate Cup (Jake. — This cake contains no soda or baking powder, 
and to make it light requires the incorporation of as much air as pos- 
sible. In order to accomplish this, it should be put together in the same 
manner as directed for Batter Hi'eads (page 154). Have all material 
measured and everything in readiness before beginning to put the cake 
together, then beat together the yolk of one egg, one cup of sugar, and 
one cup of very cold sweet cream, until all of a foam ; add a little 
grated lemon rind for flavoring ; stir in slowly, beating briskly all the 
time, two cups nf granular white flour (soiuctimes termed gluten flour) 
or Graham meal. When all the flour is added, add lastly the beaten 
whites of two eggs, stirring just enough to mix them well througiiout the 
whole ; turn at once into slightly heated gem irons which have been pre- 
viously oiled, and bake in a moderately (|uick oven, H made according 
to directions, this cake will be very light and delicate. It will not puff up 
much above its first proportions, but will be light throughout. 

A nice cake may be prepared in the same manner with Graham 
meal or even white flour, by the addition of a heaping tablespoonful 
of cornstarch sifted into the flour, in the way in which baking powder is 
ordinarily mixed with flour before using. 

Fig Layer Cake. — Prepare the cake as directed for Apple Cake, Chop 
one half pound of figs very fine, add one half cup of sugar, one cup of 
water, and boil in a farina kettle until soft and homogeneous. Cool, and 
spread between the cakes. Or chop steamed figs very fine, mix with an 
equal quantity of almondine, and use. 

Fruit Jelly Cake. — Prepare the cake as in the foregoing, using fruit 
jelly between the layers. 



346 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Gold and Silver Cake. — Prepare the cake as for Apple Cake. When 
it has risen the second time, measure out one third of it, and add the 
yolks of the eggs to that portion with a httle grated lemon rind for flavor- 
ing; add the whites with some very finely pulverized desiccated cocoanut 
to the other two thirds. Make two sheets of the white and one of the 
yellow. Allow them to become perfectly light before baking. When 
baked, place the yellow portion between the two white sheets, binding 
them together with a little frosting or white currant jelly. 

Icing for Cakes. — Since icing adds to the excess of sugar contained 
in cakes, it is preferable to use them without it except when especially 
desired for ornament. An icing without eggs may be prepared by boil- 
ing a cup of granulated sugar in five tablespoonfuls of sweet milk for five 
minutes, then beating until cool enough to spread. One with egg may be 
easily made of six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the white of one egg, 
and one teaspoonful of boiling water mixed without beating. A colored 
icing may be made by using a teaspoonful of boiling cranberry juice or 
other red fruit juice instead of water. The top of the icing may be or- 
namented with roasted almonds, bits of colored sugar or frosted fruits, 
directions for the preparation of all of which have already been given. 

Orange Cake. — Prepare the cake as for Apple Cake, and bake in two 
layers. For the filling, take two good-sized, juicy oranges. Flavor two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar by rubbing it over the skin of the oranges, then 
peel, remove the white rind, and cut into small pieces, discarding the 
seeds and the central pith. Put the orange pulp in a china bowl, and 
set in a dish of boiling water. When it is hot, stir in a heaping tea- 
spoonful of cornstarch which has been braided smooth in two spoonfuls 
of water. Stir constantly until the starch has cooked, and the whole 
becomes thickened. Beat the yolk of one egg to a cream with two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Stir this very gradually, so as not to lump, into the 
orange mixture, and cook two or three minutes longer. Remove from the 
fire, and when cool, spread between the cakes. If the oranges are not 
very tart, a little lemon juice is an improvement. Meringue the top of 
the cake with the white of the egg beaten up with the two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar flavored with orange. 

Frnit Cake. — Make a sponge of one pint of thin cream which has 
been scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one gill of liquid yeast or one half 
cake of compressed yeast dissolved in a gill of cream, one half cup of 
sugar, and two and one half cups of flour. Beat all together very thor- 
oughly and let rise until light. When light, add another half cup of sugar, 
one half cup of rather thick cream which has been scalded and cooled, 
one cup of warm flour, and after beating well together, set away to rise 
again. When well risen, add one cup of seeded raisins, one fourth cup of 



DESSERTS. 347 

citron chopped fine, one half cup of Zante currants, two well-beaten eggs, 
and about one and one third cups of flour. Turn into a brick loaf bread 
pan, let it rise until very light, and bake. When done, remove from the 
pan and set away until at least twenty-four hours old before using. 

Loaf Cake. — Scald a cup of rather thin cream, and cool to blood heat. 
Add one and one half cups of warm flour, one half a cup of sugar, and one 
fourth cake of compressed yeast dissolved in two tablespoonfuls uf thin 
rream or as much of liquid yeast. Beat well, and let rise until per- 
fectly light ; then add one half cup more of sugar mixed with one half cup 
of warm flour. Beat well, and set away to rise a second time. When 
again well risen, add the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one half 
cup of warm flour, and a little grated lemon rind, or two teaspoonfuls of 
rose water to flavor. Turn into a brick loaf bread pan lined with oiled 
paper, allow it to become perfectly light again, and bake. This cake, like 
other articles made with yeast, should not be eaten within at least twenty- 
four hours after baking. 

Pineapple Cake. — Prepare as for orange cake, using grated pineapple 
in place of oranges. 

Plain Buns. — These are the simplest of all cakes. Dissolve half a 
small cake of compressed yeast in a cup of thin cream which has been 
previously warmed to blood heat, add two cups of warm flour, and beat 
thoroughly together. Put in a warm place, and let it rise till very light. 
Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar mixed well -with a half cup of warm 
flour, one half cup of Zante currants, and sufficient flour to make of the 
consistency of dough. Buns should be kneaded just as soft as possible, 
and from fifteen to twenty minutes. Shape into biscuits a little larger 
than an English walnut, place them on tins far enough apart so they will 
not touch each other when risen. Put in a warm place till they have 
risen to twice their first size, then bake in a moderately quick oven. 
If desired, the currants may be omitted and a little grated lemon rind for 
flavoring added with the sugar, or a bit of citron may be placed in the 
top of each bun when shaping. When taken from the oven, sprinkle the 
top of each with moist sugar if desired, or glace by brushing with milk 
while baking. 

Sponge Cake. — For this will be required four eggs, one cup of sugar, 
one tablespoonful of lemon juice with a little of the grated rind, and one 
cup of white flour. Success in the making of sponge cake depends almost 
wholly upon the manner in which it is put together. Beat the yolks of 
the eggs until very light and thick, then add the sugar little by little, 
beating it in thoroughly ; add the lemon juice and the grated rind. Beat 
the whites of the eggs until perfectly stiff and firm, and fold or chop 
them very lightly into the yolk mixture. Sift the flour with a sifter 



348 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

little by little ovei' the mixture and fold it carefully in. On no account 
stir either the white of the eggs or the flour in, since stirring will drive 
out the air which has been beaten into the eggs. Do not beat after the 
flour is added. The cake, when the flour is all in, should be stiff and 
spongy. If it is liquid in character, it will be apt to be tough and may be 
considered a failure. Bake in a shallow pan in a rather hot oven fifteen 
or twenty minutes. 

Sugar Crisps. — Make a soft dough of two and one fourth cups of Gra- 
ham flour, one half cup of granulated white sugar, and one cup of rather 
thick sweet cream. Knead as little as possible, roll out very thinly, cut in 
rounds or squares, and bake in a quick oven. 

Variety Cake. — Make the same as Gold and Silver Cake, and mix a 
half cup of Zante currants and chopped raisins with the yellow portion. 
The white portion may be flavored b}' adding a very little chopped citron 
instead of the cocoanut, if preferred. 




TABLE TOPICS. 



Ik families could be induced lo substitute the apple — sound, ripe, and luscious — 
for the pies, cakes, candies, and other sweetmeats with which children are too often 
stuffed, there would be a diminution of doctors' bilN, sufticient in a single year to lay 
up a stock of this delicious fruit for a season's use. — Prof. Faraday. 

Food for repentance — mince pie eaten late at night. 

Young Student — "This cook book says that pie crust needs plenty of shorten 
ing. Do you know what that means, pa ? " 
Father — " It means lard. " 
" But why is lard called shortening, pa ? " 
" Because it shortens life. " 

The health journals and the doctors all agree that the best and most wholesome 
part of the New England country doughnut is the hole. The larger the hole, they 

say, the better the doughnut. 

An old gentleman who was in the habit of eating a liberal slice of pie or cake 
just before retiring, came home late one evening after his wife had gone to bed. 
After an unsuccessful search in the pantry, he called to his wife, " Mary, where is the 
pie?" His good wife timidly acknowledged that there was no pie in the house. 
Said her husband, "Then where is the cake ? " The poor woman meekly confessed 
that the supply of cake was also exhausted ; at which the disappointed husband cried 
out in a sharp, censorious tone, " Why, what would you do if somebody should be sick 
in the night ? " 

Woman ( to tramp) — "I can give you some cold buckwheat cakes and a piece 
of mince pie. " 

Tramp — ( frightened ) " What ye say ? " 

JVoinan — "Cold buckwheat cakes and mince pie. " 

Tramp — (heroically) "Throw in a small bottle of peijsin, Madam, and I'll 
take the chances." 

[349] 




^^'RAVIES for vegetables, sauces for desserts, and similar 

liWl\v^' foods thickened with flour or cornstarch, are among the 

most common of the poorly prepared articles of the 

^JG ^ cuisine, although their proper preparation is a matter of 
considerable importance, since neither a thin, watery sauce nor 
a stiff, paste-like mixture is at all palatable. The preparation 
of gravies and sauces is a very simple matter when governed 
by that accuracy of measurement and carefulness of detail 
which should be exercised in the preparation of all foods. In 
consistency, a properly made sauce should mask the back of 
the spoon ; that is to say, when dipped into the mixture and 
lifted out, the metal of the spoon should not be visible through 
it as it runs off. The proportion of material necessary to 
secure this requisite is one tablespoonful of flour, slightly 
rounded, for each half pint of water or stock. If the sauce be 
made of milk or fruit juice, a little less flour will be needed. If 
cornstarch be used, a scant instead of a full tablespoonful will 
be required. The flour, or cornstarch should be first braided 
[350] 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 35 I 

or rubbed perfectly smooth in a very small amount of the liquid 
reserved for the purpose (salt or su^ar, if any is to be used, be- 
ing added to the flour before braiding with the liquid), and 
then carefully added to the remaining liquid, which should be 
actively boiling. It should then be continuously stirred until 
it has thickened, when it should be allowed to cook slowly for 
five or ten minutes until the starch or flour is well done. If 
through any negligence to observe carefully these simple de- 
tails, there should be lumps in the sauce, they must be removed 
before serving by turning the whole through a fine colander or 
wire strainer. 

The double boiler is the best utensil for the preparation of 
sauces and gravies, since it facilitates even cooking and renders 
them less liable to become scorched. The inner cup should be 
placed on the top of the range until the sauce has become thick- 
ened, as in the cooking of grains, and afterward placed in the 
outer boiler to continue the cooking as long as needed. 

Cream gravies for vegetables may be delicately flavored 
with celery, by steeping a few bits of celery in the milk for a few 
minutes, and removing with a fork before adding the thickening. 
Sauces for puddings may be similarly flavored, by steeping co- 
coanut or bits of orange or lemon rind in the milk. 

GRAVIES AND SAUCES FOR VEGETABLES. 

RECIPES. 

Brown HaiUT. — Heat a pint of thin cream, and when boiling, add 
half a teaspounful of salt and a tablespoonful of flour browned in the oven 
as directed on page 274, and rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold 
milk. Allow it to boil rapidly, stirring constantly until thickened ; then 
cook more slowly, in a double boiler, for five or ten minutes. If desired, 
the milk may be flavored with onion before adding the flour. This 
makes a good dressing for potatoes. 

Cream or Wliile Sauce. — Heat a pint of rich milk, part cream if it can 
be afforded, to boiling, and stir into it one tablespoonful of flour previously 
rubbed smooth in a little milk. Season with salt, and cook in a double 
boiler five or ten minutes, stirring frequently that no lumps be formed. 
If lumps are found in the sauce, turn it quickly through a fine, hot colan- 
der into the dish in which it is to be served, 



352 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Celery Sauce. — Cut half a dozen stalks of celery into finger-lengths, 
and simmer in milk for ten or fifteen minutes. Skim out the celery, add 
a little cream to the milk, salt to taste, and thicken with flour as for white 
sauce. This is very nice for potatoes and for toast. 

Eg'g" Sauce. — Heat a pint of milk to boiling, and stir in a dessertspoon- 
ful of flour rubbed smooth in a little milk. Stir constantly until the sauce 
is well thickened ; add the well-beaten yolk of an egg, turning it in very 
slowly and stirring rapidly so that it shall be well mingled. Boil up once 
only, add a very little salt, and serve. The egg makes an excellent sub- 
stitute for cream. 

Pease (iravy. — A gravy prepared either of dried or green peas as di- 
rected for Lentil Gravy on page 226, makes a suitable dressing for baked 
potatoes. Lentil gravy is also good for the same purpose. The addition 
of a little lemon juice to the lentil gravy makes another variety. 

Tomato Crrary. — A gravy made of tomatoes as directed on page 261, 
is excellent to use on baked or boiled sweet potatoes. 

Touiato Cream Gfravy. — Prepare a gravy as for Cream Sauce, using a 
slightly heaping measure of flour. When done, add, just before serving, 
for each quart of the cream sauce, one cup of hot, stewed tomato which 
has been put through a fine colander to remove all seeds. Beat it 
thoroughly into the sauce and serve on boiled or baked potato. 

SAUCES FOR DESSERTS AND PUDDINGS. 

R EC /PES. 

Almond Sauce. — Heat a pint of rich milk in the inner cup of a double 
boiler, placed directly upon the stove. When the milk is boiling, stir into 
it a heaping tablespoonful of flour which has been rubbed to a cream in 
a little cold milk. Boil rapidly until thickened, stirring constantly ; then 
add three tablespoonfuls of almondine ; place in the outer boiler, and 
cook for five or ten minutes longer. 

Ciiramel Sauce. — Stir a cup of sugar in a saucepan over the fire until 
melted and lightly browned. Add one cup of boiling water, and simmer 
ten minutes. 

Cocoanut Sauce. — Flavor a pint of new milk with cocoanut, as directed 
on page 298. Skim out the cocoanut, and add enough fresh milk to make 
one pint. Heat the milk to boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
thicken with two even spoonfuls of cornstarch, and proceed in the same 
manner as for Mock Cream. 

Cream Sauce. — Beat together two thirds of a cup of sugar, one table- 
spoonful of thick, sweet cream, and one egg. Wet half a teaspoonful of 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 353 

cornstarch with a Httle milk, and stir in with the mixture ; then add five 
tablespoonfuls of boiling milk, stirring rapidly all the time. Pour into the 
inner cup of a double boiler ; have the water in the outer cup boiling, and 
cook five minutes. Flavor to taste. 

Cranberry Pudding: Sauce. — To a quart of boiling water add two cups 
of sugar, and when well dissolved, one quart of carefully sorted cran- 
berries. Mash the berries as much as possible with a silver spoon, and 
boil just seven minutes. Turn through a colander to remove skins, cool 
and serve. 

Custard Sauce. — Rub two teaspoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste 
with half a cup of new milk. Heat two and a half cups of fresh milk 
in a double boiler to scalding, then stir in the braided flour ; heat again, 
stirring constantly till just to the boiling point, but no longer ; remove 
from the stove and cool a little. Beat together one egg, three tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, and a little lemon rind for flavoring. Turn the hot milk 
over this, a little at a time, stirring briskly meanwhile. Return the whole 
to the double boiler, and cook, stirring frequently, until when a spoon is 
dipped into the custard a coating remains upon it. Then remove at once 
from the fire. If the spoon comes out clean, the custard is not sufficiently 
cooked. 

Egg Sauce. — Separate the yolks and whites of three eggs. Beat the 
whites to a stiff froth, and stir in very gently, so as not to let the air out 
of the beaten whites, one cup of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of 
vanilla or lemon flavoring powder. Lastly, stir in carefully the beaten 
yolks of the eggs, and serve at once. 

Egg Sauce No. 2. — Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth with 
one half cup of sugar. Add three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and one 
of water. Serve at once. 

Foamy Sauce. — Beat one egg or the whites of two very thoroughly 
with one half cup of sugar and a little grated lemon rind. Pour on this 
very slowly, stirring constantly to make it smooth, one cup of boiling 
milk, part cream if it can be afforded. If the whites alone are used, 
they should not be beaten stiff. If preferred, the lemon may be omitted 
and a tablespoonful or two of currant juice or quince jelly added last 
as flavoring. 

Fruit Cream. — Take the juice pressed from a cupful of fresh straw- 
berries, red raspberries, or black caps, add to it one third of a cup of 
sugar, and place in the ice chest till chilled. Set a cup of sweet cream 
also on ice till very cold. When thoroughly cold, whip with an egg beater 
till the froth begins to rise, then add to it the cold fruit juice and beat 
again. Have ready the white of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, which add 
to the fruit cream, and whip till no more froth will rise. This makes a deli- 

23 



354 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

cious dressing for simple, grain molds and blancmanges, but is so rich it 
should be used rather sparingly. Serve as soon as possible, after being 
prepared. Fruit syrup, in the proportion of two or three tablespoonfuls 
to the pint of cream, may be used in the same manner when the fresh 
juice is not available. The juice of orange, quince, and pineapple may 
also be used in the same manner as that of berries. 

Fruit Sauce. — Heat a pint of red raspberry, currant, grape, straw- 
berry, apricot, or any other fruit juice to scalding, and stir in a table- 
spoonful of cornstarch previously rubbed to a cream with a little cold 
water. Cook till it thickens ; then add sugar according to the acidity of 
the fruit. Strain and cool before using. If fruit juice is not available, 
two or three tablespoonfuls of pure fruit jelly may be dissolved in a pint 
of hot water and used instead of the juice. A mixture of red and black 
raspberry juice, or currant and raspberry, will be found acceptable for 
variety. 

Fruit Sauce No. 2. — Mash a quart of fresh berries, add one cup of 
sugar, beat very thoroughly together, and set away until needed. Just be- 
fore it is wanted for serving, turn into a granite fruit kettle and heat 
nearly to boiling, stirring constantly to avoid burning. Serve hot with 
hot or cold puddings, or molded desserts. 

Lemon Pudding Sauce. — Heat to boiling, in a double boiler, a pint of 
water in which are two slices of lemon, and stir into it a dessertspoonful 
of cornstarch ; cook four or five minutes, or until it thickens. Squeeze 
the juice from one large lemon, and mix it with two thirds of a cup of 
sugar. Add this to the cornstarch mixture, and allow the whole to boil 
up once, stirring constantly ; then take from the fire. Leave in the 
double boiler, surrounded by the hot water, for ten minutes. Cool to 
blood heat before serving. 

Mock Cream. — Heat a pint of fresh, unskimmed milk in a double 
boiler. When the milk is boiling, stir in two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
and two even tablespoonfuls of cornstarch which has first been rubbed 
smooth in a very little cold milk. Bring just to a boil, stirring con- 
stantly ; then pour the hot mixture, a little at a time, beating thoroughly 
all the while, over the well-beaten white of one egg. Put again into 
the double boiler, return to the fire, and stir till it thickens to the con- 
sistency of cream. 

Molasses Sauce. — To one half cup of molasses, add one half cup of 
water, and heat to boiling. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed to 
a cream with a little cold water. Serve hot. 

Oraug'e Sauce. — Squeeze a cupful of juice from well-flavored, sour 
oranges. Heat a pint of water, and when boiling, thicken with a table- 
spoonful of cornstarch. Add the orange juice, strain, and sweeten to 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 355 

taste with siu^'ar that has been flavored by rubbing over the yellow rind of 
an orange until mixed with the oil in the rind. If a richer sauce is de- 
sired, the yolk of an egg may be added lastly, and the sauce allowed to 
cook until thickened. 

Peach Sauco. — Strain the juice from a well-kept can of peaches. 
Dilute with one half as much water, heat to boiling, and thicken with 
cornstarch, a scant tablespoonful to the pint of liquid. 

Plain Pudding" Sauce. — Thicken one and one half cups of water with 
one tablespoonful of cornstarch ; boil a few minutes, then stir in two 
thirds of a cup of sugar, and^one half cup of sweet cream. Take off 
the stove, and flavor with a little rose, vanilla, or lemon. 

Red Sauce. — Pare and slice a large red beet, and simmer gently in 
three cups of water for twenty minutes, or until the water is rose colored, 
then add two cups of sugar, the thin yellow rind and juice of one lemon, 
and boil until the whole is thick syrup. Strain, add a teaspoonful of rose 
water or vanilla, and serve. 

Rose Cream. — Remove the thick cream from the top of a pan of cold 
milk, taking care not to take up any of the, milk. Add sugar to sweeten 
and a teaspoonful or two of rose water. Beat with an egg beater until 
the whole mass is thick. Good thick cream, beaten in this manner, 
makes nearly double its original quantity. 

Sag'O Sauce. — Wash one tablespoonful of sago in two or three waters, 
then put it into a saucepan with three fourths of a cup of hot water, and 
some bits of lemon peel. Snnmer gently for ten minutes, take out the 
lemon peel, add half a cup of quince or apricot juice ; and if the latter, 
the strained juice of half a lemon, and sugar to taste. Beat together 
thoroughly. 

Whipped Cream Sauce. — Beat together with an egg beater until of a 
stiff froth one cup of sweet cream which has been cooled to a temperature 
of 64° or less, one teaspoonful of vanilla or a little grated lemon rind, and 
one half cup of powdered white sugar, and the whites of one or two eggs. 
The sauce may be variously flavored with a little fruit jelly beaten with 
the egg, before adding to the cream. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Whether or not life is worth living, all depends upon the liver. — Set. 

Diet cures naair than doctors. — Scotch Proverb. 

According to the ancient Hindu Scriptures, the proper amount of food is half of 
what can be conveniently eaten. 

Every hour you steal from digestion will be reclaimed b}- indigestion. — Oswald. 

MooTHS ( mouths ) are nae measures. — Scotch Proverb. 

"Very few nations in the world," says a sagacious historian, " produce better 
soldiers than the Russians. They will endure the greatest fatigues and sufferings 
with patience and calmness. And it is well known that the Russian soldiers are from 
childhood nourished by simple and coarse vegetable food. The Russian Grenadiers 
are the finest body of men I ever saw, — not a man is under six feet high. Their 
allowance consists of eight pounds of black bread, and four pounds of oil per man for 
eight days." 

Colonel Fitzgibbon was, many years ago, colonial agent at London for the 
Canadian Government, and wholly dependent upon remittances from Canada for his 
support. On one occasion these remittances failed to arrive, and it being before the 
day of cables, he was obliged to write to his friends to ascertain the reason of the de- 
lay. Meanwhile he had just one sovereign to live upon. He found he could live 
upon a sixpence a day, — four pennyworth of bread, one pennyworth of milk, and 
one pennyworth of sugar. When his remittances arrived a month afterward, he had 
five shillings remaining of his sovereign, and he liked his frugal diet so well that he 
kept it up for several years. 

An hour of exercise to every pound of food. — Oswald. 

Some eat to live, they loudly cry ; 
But from the pace they swallow pie 
And other food promiscuously, 
One would infer they eat to die. — Sel. 



[356] 







.PHE use of beverages in quantities with food at meal- 
I time is prejudicial to digestion, because they delay the 
action of the gastric juice upon solid foods. The 



^(^■^ practice of washing down food by copious draughts of 
water, tea, or coffee is detrimental, not only because it intro- 
duces large quantities of fluid into the stomach, which must 
be absorbed before digestion can begin, but also because it 
offers temptation to careless and imperfect mastication, while 
tea and coffee also serve as a vehicle for an excessive use of 
sugar, thus becoming a potent cause of indigestion and dys- 
pepsia. It is best to drink but sparingly, if at all, at mealtimes. 
Consideration should also be given to the nature of the bever- 
age, since many in common use are far from wholesome. Very 
cold fluids, like iced water, iced tea, and iced milk, are harm- 
ful, because they cool the contents of the stomach to a degree 
at which digestion is checked. If drunk at all, they should be 
taken only in small sips and retained in the mouth until partly 
warmed. 

[357] 



358 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Tea is often spoken of as the "cup that cheers but not ine- 
briates." "The cup that may cheer yet does injury" would 
be nearer the truth, for there is every evidence to prove that 
this common beverage is exceedingly harmful, and that the 
evils of its excessive use are second only to those of tobacco 
and alcohol. Tea contains two harmful substances, theine and 
tannin, — from three to six per cent of the former and more 
than one fourth its weight of the latter. Theine is a poison 
belonging to the same class of poisonous alkaloids, and is 
closely allied to cocaine. It is a much more powerful poison 
than ..icohol, producing death in less than one hundredth part 
the deadly dose of alcohol ; and when taken in any but the 
smallest doses, it produces all the symptoms of intoxication. 
Tannin is an astringent exercising a powerful effect in delaying 
salivary and stomach digestion, thus becoming one of the most 
common causes of digestive disorders. It is also a matter of 
frequent observation that sleeplessness, palpitation of the heart, 
and various disorders of the nervous system frequently fol- 
low the prolonged use of tea. Both theine and tannin are 
more abundant in green than in black tea. 

The dependence of the habitual tea-drinker upon the bever- 
age, and the sense of loss experienced when deprived of it, 
are among the strongest proofs of its evil effects, and should be 
warnings against its use. No such physical discomfort is ex- 
perienced when deprived of any article of ordinary food. The 
use of tea makes one feel bright and fresh when really ex- 
hausted ; but, like all other stimulants, it is by exciting vital 
action abo\'e the normal without supplying extra force to sup- 
port the extra expenditure. The fact that a person feels tired 
is evidence that the system demands rest, that his body is 
worn and needs repair ; but the relief experienced after a cup 
of tea is not recuperation. Instead, it indicates that his nerves 
are paralyzed so that they are insensible to fatigue. 

Some people suppose the manner of preparing tea has 
much to do with its deleterious effects, and that by infusion 
for two or three minutes only, the evils resulting from the 
tannin will be greatly lessened. This, however, is a delusion. 



BEVERAGES. 359 

if the same amount of tea be used proportionate to the water ; 
for tannin in its free state, the condition in which it is found 
in tea is one of the most readily soluble of substances ; and 
tea infused for two minutes is likely to hold nearly as much 
tannin in solution as that infused for a longer period. 

Tea is not a food, and can in no wise take the place of food, 
as so many people attempt to make it, without detriment to 
health in every respect. 

Coffee, cocoa, and chocolate rank in the same category 
with tea, as beverages which are more or less harmful. Coffee 
contains caffein, a principle identical with theine and a modi- 
fied form of tannin, though in less quantity than tea. Cocoa 
and chocolate contain substances similar to theine and equally 
harmful, though usually present in much less proportion than 
in tea. 

Custom has made the use of these beverages so common that 
most people seldom stop to inquire into their nature. Doubt- 
less the question arises in many minds, If these beverages 
contain such poisons, why do they not more commonly pro- 
duce fatal results.'' — Because a tolerance of the poison is estab- 
lished in the system by use, as in the case of tobacco and other 
narcotics and stimulants ; but that the poisons surely though 
insidiously are doing their work is attested by the prevalence 
of numerous disorders of the digestive and nervous systems, 
directly attributable to the use of these beverages. 

Both tea and coffee are largely adulterated with other 
harmful substances, thus adding another reason why their 
use should be discarded. It is stated on good authority that 
it is almost impossible to obtain unadulterated ground coffee. 

In view of all these facts, it certainly seems wisest if a 
beverage is considered essential, to make use of one less 
harmful. Hot milk, hot water, hot lemonade, caramel coffee, or 
some of the various grain coffees, recipes for which are given 
in the following pages, are all excellent substitutes for tea and 
coffee, if a hot drink is desired. 



360 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

RECIPES. 

Beet Coffe*. — Wash best beets thoroughly, but do not scrape; sUce, 
and brown in a moderate oven, taking care not to burn. When brown, 
break in small pieces and steep the same as ordinary coifee. 

Caramel Coft'ee. — Take three quarts best bran, one quart corn meal, 
three tablespoonfuls of molasses; mix and brown in the oven like ordinary 
coifee. For ever)' cup of coffee required, use one heaping tablesjioon- 
ful of the caramel. Pour boiling water over it, and steep, not boil, for 
fifteen or twent}' minutes. 

Caramel Coft'ee No. 2. — Take one cup each of white flour, corn meal, 
unsifted Graham flour, and molasses. Mix well, and form into cakes 
half an inch thick and a little larger around than a silver dollar. If the 
molasses is not thin enough to take up all the drj'' material, one fourth 
or one half a cup of cold water maj' be added for that purpose. Bake 
the cakes in the oven until very dark brown, allowing them to become 
slightly scorched. When desired for use, take one cake for each cup 
of coffee required, pour sufficient water over them, and steep, not boil, 
twenty minutes. 

Caramel Coft'ee No. 3. — To three and one half quarts of bran and 
one and one half quarts of corn meal, take one pint of New Orleans 
molasses and one half pint of boiling water. Put the water and molasses 
together and pour them over the bran and corn meal which have been 
previously mixed. Rub all well together, and brown slowly in the oven, 
stirring often, until a rich dark brown. Use one heaping tablespoon- 
ful of coffee to each small cup of boiling water, let it just boil up, then 
steep on the back of the stove for five or ten minutes. 

Caramel Coffee No. 4. — Beat together four eggs and one pint of mo- 
lasses, and mix thoroughly with four quarts of good wheat bran. Brown 
in the oven, stirring frequently. Prepare for use the same as the pre- 
ceding. 

Mrs. T's Cai-amel Coffee. — Make a rather thick batter of Graham grits 
or Graham meal and milk, spread it in shallow pans and bake in a moder- 
ate oven until evenly done throughout. Cut the cake thus prepared into 
thin strips, which break into small uniform pieces and spread on per- 
forated tins or sheets and brown in the oven. Each piece should be 
very darkly and evenly browned, but not burned. For each cup of coffee 
required, steep a small handful in boiling water for ten or fifteen minutes, 
strain and serve. 

Parched Orain Coft'ee. — Brown in the oven some perfectly sound 
wheat, sweet corn, barley, or rice, as you would the coffee berry. If 
desired, a mixture of grains may be used. Pound or grind fine. Mix the 



BEVERAGES. 361 

white of an egj,' with three tablespoonfuls of the ground grain, and pour 
over it a quart of boihng water. Allow it to come just to the boiling point, 
steep slowly for twelve or fifteen minutes, and serve. 

Wheat, Oats uihI IJarloy Coffee. — Mix together equal quantities of 
these grains, brown in tlie oven like ordinary coffee, and grind. To one 
quart of boiling water take three tablespoonfuls of the prepared coffee 
mixed with the white of an egg, and steep in boiling water ten or fifteen 
minutes. 

REC/PES FOR COLD BEVERAGES. 

Blackberry Beverag-e. — Crush a quart of fresh blackberries, and pour 
over them a cpiart of cold water ; add a slice of lemon and a teaspoonful 
of orange water, and let it stand three or four hours. Strain through a 
jelly bag. Sweeten to taste with a syrup prepared by dissolving white 
sugar in hot water, allowing it to become cold before using. Serve at 
once with bits of broken ice in the glasses, or place the pitcher on ice 
until ready to serve. 

Fruit Beverag-e. — A great variety of pleasant, healthful drinks may be 
made by taking equal quantities of water and the juice of currants, straw- 
berries, raspberries, cherries, or a mixture of two kinds, as raspberries 
and currants, sweetening to taste, and putting into each glass a small 
lump of ice. Directions for the preparation of fruit juices will be found 
on page 209. 

Fruit Beveragre No. 2. — Mash a pint of red raspberries, add one cup 
of canned pineapple or half a fresh one chopped fine ; pour over all three 
pints of water. Stir frequently, and let the mixture stand for two hours. 
Strain, add the juice of six lemons, and sugar or syrup to sweeten. 

Another. — Extract the juice from three lemons and as many sour 
oranges, add a quart of cold water, sugar or syrup to sweeten, half a 
teaspoonful of rose water, and a cup of pure grape juice; or the rose 
water and grape juice may be omitted and two tablespoonfuls of straw- 
berry, raspberry, or cherry juice used instead, and the whole poured over 
half a dozen slices of pineapple, and allowed to stand until well flavored 
before using. 

Fruit Cordial. — Crush a pint of blackberries, raspberries, grapes, cur- 
rants, or cherries, adding the juice of two sour oranges, and a sliced 
lemon ; pour over all a quart of cold water. Stir the mixture frequently 
and let it stand for two hours, then strain and add a syrup made by dis- 
solving white sugar in boiling water, sufficient to sweeten. Cool on ice 
and serve. 

Gfrape Beverage. — Crush two pounds of perfectly ripened purple 
grapes and strain the juice through a jelly bag. Add to the juice three 



362 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar or syrup, and dilute with cold water to 
suit the taste. 

Lemonade. — Use three large or four medium-sized lemons for each 
quart of water, and from six to eight tablespoonfuls of sugar. Rub or 
squeeze the lemons till soft. Cut a slice or two from each, and extract the 
juice with a lemon drill ; strain the juice through a fine wire strainer to 
remove the seeds and bits of pulp, and pour it over the sugar. Add the 
slices of lemon, and pour over all a very little boiling water to thoroughly 
dissolve the sugar ; let it stand ten or fifteen minutes, then add the neces- 
sary quantity of cold water, and serve. Or rub the sugar over the out- 
side of the lemons to flavor it, and make it into a syrup by adding 
sufficient boiling water to dissolve it. Extract and strain the lemon 
juice, add the prepared syrup and the requisite quantity of cold water, 
and serve. 

Mixed Lemouade. — A very pleasant, cooling summer drink is made 
from the juice of six oranges and six lemons, with sugar to taste ; add 
to this some pounded ice and the juice of a small can of pineapple, and 
lastly pour over the whole two quarts of water. 

Oatmeal Drink. — Boil one fourth of a pound of oatmeal in three quarts 
of water for half an hour, then add one and one half tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, strain and cool. It may be flavored with a little lemon or rasp- 
berr}' syrup if desired ; or the sugar im.y be omitted and a quart of 
milk added. Cool on ice and serve. 

Orana^eade. — Pare very thin from one orange a few bits of the yellow 
rind. Slice three well-peeled sour oranges, taking care to remove all the 
white portion and all seeds. Add the yellow rind and a tablespoonful of 
sugar ; pour over all a quart of boiling water. Cover the dish, and let it 
remain until the drink is cold. Or, if preferred, the juice of the oranges 
may be extracted with a lemon drill and strained as for lemonade. 

Pineapple Beverage. — Pare and chop quite fine one fresh pineapple ; 
add a slice or two of lemon, and cover with three pints of boiling water. 
Let it stand for two hours or more, stirring frequently ; then strain and 
add the juice of five lemons, and sugar or syrup to sweeten. 

Pineapple Lemonade. — Lemonade made in the usual manner and 
flavored with a few spoonfuls of canned pineapple juice, is excellent 
fpr variety. 

Pink Lemonade. — Add to a pint of lemonade prepared in the usual 
manner half a cup of fresh or canned strawberry, red raspberry, cur- 
rant, or cranberry juice. It gives a pretty color besides adding a pleasing 
flavor. 

Sherbet. — Mash a quart of red raspberries, currants, or straw- 
berries, add the juice of a lemon, and pour over all three pints of cold 



TABLE TOPICS. 363 

water. Stir frequently, and let it stand tor two or three hours. Strain 
through a jelly bag, sweeten to taste, and serve. 

Tisaue. — This is a favorite French beverage, and is pi-epared by chop- 
ping fine a cupful of dried fruits, such as prunes, figs, or jnunells. and 
steeping for an hour in a quart of water, afterward straining, sweetening 
to taste, and cooling on ice before using. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The nervousness and peevishness of our times are chietly attribiuahle to tea and 
coffee. The digestive organs of confirmed coffee drinkers are in a state of chronic 
derangement which reacts on the brain, producing fretful and lachrymose moods. 
The snappish, petulant humor of the Chinese can certainly be ascribed to their immod- 
erate fondness for tea. — Dr. Bock. 

Dr. Ferguson, an eminent physician who has carefully investigated the influ- 
ence of tea and coffee upon the health and development of children, says he found 
that children who were allowed these beverages gained but four pounds a year between 
the ages of thirteen and sixteen, while those who had been allowed milk instead, 
gained fifteen pounds in weight during the same period. 

Dr. Rich.\rdson, the eminent English physician and scientist, asserts that the 
misery of the women of the poorer classes of the population in England is more than 
doubled by the use of tea, which only soothes or stimulates to intensify the after- 
coming depression and latiguor. 

A PHYSici.^N recommended a lady to abandon the use of tea and coffee. " O, 
but I shall miss it so," said she. 

"Very likely," replied her medical adviser, '-but you are missing health now, 
and will soon lose it altogether if you do not." 

Dr. Stenhouse, of Liverpool, once made a careful analysis of a sample pack- 
age of black tea, which was found to contain "some pure Congo tea leaves, also sift; 
ings of Pekoe and inferior kinds, weighing together twenty-seven per cent of the 
whole. The remaining seventy-three per cent was composed of the following sub- 
stances : Iron, plumbago, chalk, China-clay, sand, Prussian-blue, tumeric, indigo, 
starch, gypsum, catechu, gum, the leaves of the camelia, sarangua, Chhrantt's offici- 
nalis, elm, oak, willow, jioplar. elder, beach, hawthorn, and sloe." 




MILK. 

v^WlHEMICALLV considered, the constituents of milk are 
M\]m- nitroo-enous matter (consisting- of casein and a small 
Axyll proportion of albumen), fat, sugar of milk, mineral mat- 
^p^l ter, and water, the last constituting from sixty-five to 
ninety per cent of the Avhole. 

The proportion of these elements varies gx'eatly in the 
milk of different animals of the same species and of the same 
animals at ciifferent times, so that it is not possible to give an 
exact analysis. 

The analysis of an average specimen of cow's milk, accord- 
ing to Letheby, is : — 

Nitrogenous malter ... 4. i 

i^at 3.9 

Sugar of milk 5.2 

Mineral matter 0.8 

Water 86.0 

If a drop of milk be examined with a microscope, it will be 
seen as a clear liquid, holding in suspension a larg-e number of 
[364] 



MILK. IREAM, AND BUTTER. 365 

minute globules, which give the milk its opacity or white color. 
These microscopic globules are composed of fatty matter, each 
surrounded by an envelope of casein, the principal nitrogenous 
element found in milk. They are lighter than the surrounding 
liquid, and when the milk remains at rest, they gradually rise 
to the top and form cream. Casein, unlike albumen, is not 
coagulated by heat ; hence when milk is cooked, it undergoes 
no noticeable change, save the coagulation of the very small 
amount of albumen it contains, which, as it solidifies, rises to 
the top, carrying with it a small portion of the sugar and 
saline matter and some of the fat globules, forming a skin-like 
scum upon the surface. Casein, although not coagulable by 
heat, is coagulated by the introduction into the milk of acids 
or extract of rennet. The curd of cheese is coagulated casein. 
When milk is allowed to stand for some time exposed to 
warmth and air, a spontaneous coagulation occurs, caused by 
fermentative changes in the sugar of milk, by which it is con- 
verted into lactic acid tlirough the action of germs. 

Milk is sometimes adulterated by water, the removal of 
more or less of the cream, or the addition of sqme foreign sub- 
stance to increase its density. 

The quality of milk is more or less influenced by the food 
upon which the animal is fed. Watery milk may be produced 
by feeding a cow upon sloppy food. 

The milk of diseased animals should never be used for food. 
There is no way by v/hich such milk can invariably be de- 
tected, but Prof Vaughan, of Michigan University, notes the 
following kinds of milk to be avoided: "i. Milk which be- 
comes sour and curdles within a few hours after it has been 
drawn, and before any cream forms on its surface. This is 
known in some sections as ' curdly ' milk, and it comes from 
cows with certain inflammatory affections of the udder, or 
digestive diseases, or those which have been overdriven or 
worried. 2. ' Bitter-sweet milk ' has cream of a bitter taste, is 
covered with 'blisters,' and frequently with a fine mold. But- 
ter and cheese made from such milk cannot be eaten on ac- 
count of the disagreeable taste. 3. ' Slimy milk' can be drawn 



366 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

out into fine, ropy fibers. It has an unpleasant taste, which is 
most marked in the cream. The causes which lead to the 
secretion of this milk are not known. 4. ' Blue milk ' is char- 
acterized by the appearance on its surface, eighteen or twenty- 
four hours after it is drawn, of small, indigo-blue spots, which 
rapidly enlarge until the whole surface is covered with a blue 
film. If the milk be allowed to stand a few days, the blue is 
converted into a greenish or reddish color. This coloration 
of the milk is due to the growth of microscopic organisms. 
The butter made from ' blue milk ' is dirty-white, gelatinous, 
and bitter. 5. 'Barnyard milk' is a term used to designate 
milk taken from unclean animals, or those which have been 
kept in filth}-, unventilated stables. The milk absorbs and 
carries the odors, which are often plainly perceptible. Such, 
milk may not be poisonous, but it is repulsive." 

There is no doubt that milk often serves as the vehicle for 
the distribution of the germs of various contagious diseases, 
like scarlet fever, diphtheria, and typhoid fever, from becoming 
contaminated in some way, either from the hands of milkers or 
from water used as an adulterant or in cleansing the milk 
vessels. Recent investigations have also shown that cows are 
to some extent subject to scarlet fever, the same as human 
beings, and that milk from infected cows will produce the 
same disease in the consumer. 

Milk should not be kept in brass or copper vessels or in 
earthenware lined with lead glazing ; for if the milk becomes 
acid, it is likely to unite with the metal and form a poisonous 
compound. Glass and granite ware are better materials in 
which to keep milk. 

Mill^' should never be allowed to stand uncovered in an 
occupied room, especially a sitting-room or bedroom, as its 
dust is likely to contain disease-germs, which, falling into the 
milk, may become a source of serious illness to the consumer. 
Indeed it is safest to keep milk covered whenever set away, to 
exclude the germs which are at all times present in the air. 
A good wa\' is to protect the dishes containing milk with 
several layers of cheese-cloth, which will permit the air but 



MILK, CREAM, AND HUTTKR. 367 

not the ^crins to circulate in and out of the pans. Neither 
should it be allowed to stand where there are strong odors, as 
it readily takes up by absorption any odors to which it is 
exposed. 

A few years a^^o Dr. Dout^all, of Glasgow, made some very 
interesting exi^eriments on the absorbent proj)erties of milk. 
He inclosed in jars a portion of substances giving off emana- 
tions, with a uniform quantity of milk, in separate vessels, for 
a period of eight hours, at the end of which time samples of 
the milk were drawn off and tested. The result was that milk 
exposed to the following substances retained odors as de- 
scribed : — 

Coal gas, distinct ; paraffine oil, strong ; turpentine, very 
strong ; onions, very strong ; tobacco smoke, very strong ; 
ammonia, moderate ; musk, faint ; asafetida, distinct ; creo- 
sote, strong ; cheese fstalej, distinct ; chloroform, moderate ; 
putrid fish, very bad ; camphor, mf)derate ; decayed cabbage, 
distinct. 

These facts clearly indicate that if the emanations to which 
milk is exposed are of a diseased and dangerous quality, it is 
all but impossible that the milk can remain free from dangerous 
properties. 

Too much pains cannot be taken in the care of milk and 
vessels containing it. Contact with the smallest quantity of 
milk which has undergone fermentation will sour the whole ; 
hence the necessity for scrupulous cleanliness of all vessels 
which have contained milk before they are used again for 
that purpose. 

In washing milk dishes, many persons put them first into 
scalding water, by which means the albumen in the milk is 
coagulated ; and if there are any crevices or seams in the pans 
or pails, this coagulated portion is likely to adhere to them like 
glue, and becoming sour, will form the nucleus for spoiling the 
next milk put into them. A better way is first to rinse each 
separately in cold water, not pouring the water from one pan to 
another, until there is not the slightest milky appearance in the 
water, then wash in warm suds, or water containing sal-soda, 



368 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

and afterward scald thoroughl}- ; wipe perfectly dry, and place 
if possible where the sun will have free access to them until 
they are needed for further use. If sunshine is out of the ques- 
tion, invert the pans or cans over the stove, or place for a few 
moments in a hot oven. 

The treatment of milk varies with its intended use, whether 
whole or separated from the cream. 

Cream rises best when the milk is quite warm or when near 
the freezing-point. In fact, cream separates more easily from 
milk at the freezing-point than any other, but it is not thick 
and never becomes so. An intermediate state seems to be 
unfavorable to a full rising" of the cream. 

A temperature of 56° to 60° F. is a good one. Milk to be 
used whole should be kept at about 4^° and stirred frequently. 

All milk obtained from city milkmen or any source not cer- 
tainly known to be free from disease-germs, should be sterilized 
before using. Indeed, it is safest always to sterilize milk be- 
fore using, since during the milking or in subsequent handling 
and transportation it is liable to become infected with germs. 

To Sterilize Milk for Immediate Use. — Put the milk as 
soon as received into the inner dish of a double boiler, the 
outer vessel of which should be filled with boiling water. 
Cover and heat the milk rapidly to as near the boiling point as 
possible. Allow it to remain with the water in the outer 
boiler actively boiling for half an hour, then remove from the 
stove and cool very quickly. This may be accomplished by 
pouring into shallow dishes, and placing these in cold water, 
changing the water as frequently as it becomes warm, or b}' 
using pieces of ice in the water. It is especially important to 
remember that the temperature of the milk should be raised as 
rapidly as possible, and when the milk is sufficiently cooked, 
cooled very quickly. Either ver}' slow heating or slow cooling 
ma}- prove disastrous, even when every other precaution is taken. 

Or, well-cleaned glass fruit cans ma}- be nearl}- filled with 
milk, the covers screwed on loosely, then placed in a kettle of 
cold water, gradually heated to boiling and kept at that tempera- 
ture for a half hour or longer, then gradual!} cooled. Or, per- 



MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 369 

fectly clean bottles may be filled with milk to within two inches 
of the top, the neck tightly closed with a wad of cotton, and 
the bottles placed in a steam cooker, the water in which should 
be cold at the start, and steamed for half an hour. 

This cooking of milk, while it destroys many of the germs 
contained in milk, particularly the active disease-germs which 
are liable to be found in it, thus rendering it more wholesome, 
and improving its keeping qualities somewhat, does not so com- 
pletely sterilize the milk that it will not undergo fermentative 
changes. Under varying conditions some thirty or forty dif- 
ferent species of germs are to be found in milk, some of which 
require to be subjected to a temperature above that of boiling 
water, in order to destroy them. The keeping quality of the 
milk may be increased by reboiliug it on three successive days 
for a half hour or longer, and carefully sealing after each boiling. 

To Sterilize Milk lo Keep. — This is a somevvhat more 
difficult operation, but it may be done by boiling milk sealed 
in very strong bottles in a saturated solution of salt. The 
milk used should be perfectly fresh. It is best, when possible, 
to draw the milk from the cow directly into the bottles. Fill 
the bottles to within two inches of the top, cork them immedi- 
ately and wire the corks down firmly and place them in the cold 
salt solution. Boil fifteen minutes or half an hour. Allow the 
solution to cool before removing them. If the bottles are re- 
moved from the solution while hot, they will almost instantly 
break. When cold, remove the bottles, and cover the tops 
with sealing wax. Store in a cool place, shake thoroughly 
once or twice a week. Milk sterilized in this manner will keep 
indefinitely. 

Condensed Milk. — Condensed milk is made by evapo- 
rating milk in a vacuum to one fifth its original volume ; it is 
then canned like any other food by sealing at boiling tempera- 
ture in air-tight cans. When used, it should be diluted with 
five times its bulk of warm water. 

Condensed milk, when not thoroughly boiled in the process 
of condensation, is liable to harbor disease-germs the same as 
any other milk. 
24 



370 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



CREAM. 

Cream varies in composition according to the circumstances 
under which it rises. 

The composition of an average specimen as given by Leth- 
erby is : — 

Nitrogenous matter 2.7 

Fat 26. 7 

Sugar of milk ; 28 

Mineral matter 1.8 

Water 66.0 

In the process of churning, the membranes of casein which 
surround each of the little globules constituting the cream are 
broken, and the fat of which they are composed becomes a 
compact mass known as butter. The watery looking residue 
containing casein, sugar of milk, mineral matter, and a small 
proportion of fat, comprises the buttermilk. 

Skim-milk, or milk from which the cream has been re- 
moved, and buttermilk are analogous in chemical compo- 
sition. 

The composition of each, according to Dr. Edward 
Smith, is : — 

SKIM-MILK. 

Nitrogenous matter ". 4.0 

Sugar 3.8 

Fat 1.8 

Mineral matter 0.8 

Water 88.0 

BUTTERMILK. 

Nitrogenous matter 4. i 

Sugar 3.6 

Fat 0.7 

Mineral matter 0.8 

Water 88.0 

Skim-milk and buttermilk, when the butter is made from 
sweet cream and taken fresh, are both excellent foods, although 
lacking the fat of new milk. 

Cream is more easily digested than butter, and since it 
contains other elements besides fat, is likewise more nutritious. 
In cream the fat is held in the form of an emulsion which 



MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 



371 



allows it to mingle freely with water. As previously stated, 
each atom of fat is surrounded with a film of casein. The 
gastric juice has no more power to diijest casein than it has 
free fat, and the little particles of fat thus protected are car- 
ried to the small intestines, where the pancreatic juice digests 
them, and on their way they do not interfere with the stomach 
digestion of other foods, as the presence of butter and other 
free fats may do. 

It is because of its greater wholesomeness that in the 
directions for the preparation of foods given in this work we 
have given preference to the use 
of cream over that of butter and 
other free fats. The usual ob- 
jection to its use is its expense, 
and the difficulty of obtaining it 
from city dealers. The law of 
supply and cost generally corre- 
sponds with that of demand, and 
doubtless cream would prove no 
exception if its use were more 
general. 

Cream may be sterilized and 
preserved in a pure state for 
some time, the same as milk. 

Milk requires especial care to secure a good quality and 
quantity of cream. Scrupulous cleanliness, good ventilation, 
and an unvarying temperature are absolute essentials. The 
common custom of setting milk in pans is objectionable, not 
only because of the dust and germs always liable to fall into 
the milk, but also from the difficulty of keeping milk thus set 
at the proper temperature for cream-rising. Every family 
using milk in any quantity ought to have a set of creameries 
of large or small capacity according to circumstances, in which 
the milk supply can be kept in a pure, wholesome condition, 
and so arranged as to facilitate the full rising of the cream if 
desired. A very simple and satisfactory creamery, with space 
for ice around the milk, similar to that represented in the ac- 
companying cut, may be constructed by any tinman. 




Creamery. 



372 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

The plan of scalding milk to facilitate the rising of the 
cream is excellent, as it not only secures a more speedy rising, 
but serves to destroy the germs found in the milk, thus lessen- 
ing its tendency to sour. The best way to do this is to heat 
the milk in a double boiler, or a dish set inside another con- 
taining hot water, to a temperature of 150° to i65°F. as in- 
dicated by wrinkles upon its surface. The milk must not, 
however, be allowed to come to a boil. When scalded, it 
should be cooled at once to a temperature of about 60° F. and 
kept thus during the rising of the cream. 

BUTTER. 

Of all foods wholly composed of fat, good fresh butter is 
the most wholesome. It should, however, be used unmelted 
and taken in a finely divided state, and only in very moderate 
quantities. If exposed to great heat, as on hot buttered toast, 
meats, rich pastry, etc., it is quite indigestible. We do not 
recommend its use either for the table or for cooking purposes 
when cream can be obtained, since butter is rarely found in so 
pure a state that it is not undergoing more or less decomposi- 
tion, depending upon its age and the amount of casein retained 
in the butter through the carelessness of the manufacturer. 

Casein, on exposure to air in a moist state, rapidly changes 
into a ferment, which, acting upon the fatty matter of the but- 
ter, produces rancidity, rendering the butter more or less un- 
wholesome. Poor, tainted, or rancid butter should not be used 
as food in any form. 

Good butter is pale yellow, uniform throughout the whole 
mass, and free from rancid taste or odor. White lumps in it 
are due to the incorporation of sour milk with the cream from 
which it was produced. A watery, milk-like fluid exuding from 
the freshly cut surface of butter, is evidence that insufficient 
care was taken to wash out all the buttermilk, thus increasing 
its liability to spoil. 

The flavor and color of butter vary considerably, according 
to the breed and food of the animal from which the milk was 



MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 373 

obtained. An artificial color is often g-iven to butter by the 
use of a preparation of annatto. 

Both salt and saltpeter are employed as preservatives for 
butter ; a large quantity of the former is often used to increase 
the weight of the butter. 

Artificial Butter. — Various fraudulent preparations are 
sold as butter. Oleomargarine, one of the commonest, is made 
from tallow or beef-fat, cleaned and ground like sausage, and 
heated, to separate the oil from the membranes. It is then 
known as " butter-oil," is salted, cooled, pressed, and churned 
in milk, colored with annatto, and treated the same as butter. 
I^utterine, another artificial product, is prepared by mixing 
butter-oil and a similar oil obtained from lard, then churning 
them with milk. 

An eminent analyst gives the following excellent way of 
distinguishing genuine butter from oleomargarine: — 

" When true butter is heated over a clear flame, it ' browns' 
and gives out a pleasant odor, — that of browned butter. In 
heating there is more or less sputtering, caused by minute par- 
ticles of water retained in washing the butter. On the bottom 
of the pan or vessel in which true butter is heated, a yellowish- 
brown crust is formed, consisting of roasted or toasted casein. 
When oleomargarine is heated under similar circumstances, it 
does not 'brown,' but becomes darker by overheating, and 
when heated to dryness, gives off a grayish steam, smelling of 
tallow. There is no 'sputtering' when it is being heated, but 
it boils easily. If a pledget of cotton or a wick saturated with 
oleomargarine be set on fire and allowed to burn a few mo- 
ments before being extinguished, it will give out fumes which 
are very characteristic, smelling strongly of tallow, while true 
butter behaves very differently." 

Butter in Ancient Times. — Two kinds of butter seem to 
have been known to the ancient Jews, one quite like that of 
the present day, except that it was boiled after churning, so 
that it became in that warm climate practically an oil ; the 
other, a sort of curdled milk. The juice of the Jerusalem arti- 
choke was mixed with the milk, when it was churned until 



374 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



a sort of curd was separated. The Oriental method of churn- 
ing was b}- putting- the milk into a goat-skin and swinging and 
shaking the bag until the butter came, as illustrated in the 
accompan}-ing cut. 

An article still sold as butter in Athens is made b}- boiling 
the milk of goats, allowing it to sour, and then churning in 
a goat-skin. The result is a thick, -white, foamy substance ap- 
pearing more like 
cream than butter. 
Butter -Making". 
— The manufacture 
of good butter is de- 
pendent upon good 
cows and the care 
given them, as well 
as most careful 
treatment of the 
milk and c r e a m. 
The milk to be used 
for butter making, 
as indeed for all 
purposes, should be 
most c a r e f u 1 1 }" 
strained through a 
wire strainer co\-- 
ered with three or 
four thicknesses of 
perfect!}' clean 
cheese cloth. 

The fol lo win g 
points given by an 
experienced dairyman will be found \\orth}' of consideration b}- 
all who have to do with the manufacture of this article : — 

"Milk is almost as sensitive to atmospheric changes as mer- 
cury itself. It is a question among many as to what depth 
milk should be set to get the most cream. It does not make 
so much difference as to the depth as it does the protection of 




Oriental Butter-Makins 



MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 375 

the milk from acid or souring. As soon as the milk begins to 
sour, the cream ceases to rise. 

"With a clear, dry atmosphere the cream will rise clean in 
the milk ; but in that condition of the atmosphere which readily 
sours the milk, the cream will not rise clean, but seems to hang 
in the milk, and this even when the milk is protected by being 
set in water. 

" The benefit of setting milk in cold water is that the water 
protects the milk from becoming acid until the cream has time 
to rise. For cream to rise readily on milk set in cold water, 
the atmosphere in the room should be warmer than the water- 
As much cream will rise on milk set in cold water in one hour 
as on milk not set in water in twenty-four hours. The milk 
should be skimmed while sweet, and the cream thoroughly 
stirred at each skimming. 

" Cream skimmed from different milkings, if churned at the 
same time in one churn, should be mixed eight to ten hours 
before churning ; then the cream will all come alike. 

" The keeping qualities of butter depend principally upon 
two things : First, the buttermilk must be all gotten out ; and 
secondly, the grain of the butter should be kept as perfect as 
possible. Butter should not be allowed to be churned after it 
has fairly come, and should not be gathered compactly in the 
churn in taking out, but the buttermilk should be drained from 
the butter in the churn, through a hair sieve, letting the butter 
remain in the churn. Then take water and turn it upon the 
butter with sufficient force to pass through the butter, and in 
sufficient cjuantity to rinse the buttermilk all out of the butter. 
With this process of washing the butter the grain is not in- 
jured or mashed, and is thus far kept perfect. And in working 
in the salt the ladle or roll or worker, whatever it is, should 
never be allowed to slip on the butter, — if it does, it will de- 
stroy the grain, — but it should go upon the butter in a press- 
ing or rolling motion." 

Test the temperature of the cream with a thermometer, and 
churn it at 60° in summer and 62° in winter. If the butter 
is soft, it may be hardened by pouring onto it while work- 



376 - SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

ing- a brine made by dissolving a pint of salt in ten quarts of 
water. The salt used in the butter should be carefully 
measured, three fourths of an ounce of salt to the pound being 
the usual allowance. 

Butter, like milk, absorbs odors readily, and should never be 
allowed to remain in occupied rooms or any place exposed to 
strong or foul odors, but be kept covered in a cold place. 

CHEESE. 

Cheese is a product of milk prepared by separating the 
casein, with more or less of the cream, according to the man- 
ner in which it has been prepared, from the other ingredients 
of the milk. It is an article, which, although possessing a large 
proportion -^of nutritive material, is very difficult of digestion, 
and the use of which is very questionable, not only for this 
reason, but because it is very liable to contain a poison called 
tyrotoxicon, capable of producing mo.st violent and indeed 
fatal results, according to the remarkable researches of Prof. 
Vaughan of Michigan University. This poison is sometimes 
found in ice cream and custards, cream-puffs, etc., made from 
stale milk or cream. 

It is much better to use milk in its fresh, natural state than 
in any of its products. Made into either butter or cheese, we 
lose some of its essential elements, so that what is left is not a 
perfect food. 

REC/PES. 

Hot Milk. — Milk is more easily digested when used hot. This is not 
due to any marked chemical change in the milk, but to the stimulating 
effect of heat upon the palate and stomach. 

To prepare hot milk, heat it in a double boiler until a wrinkled skin 
appears upon the surface. In the double boiler it may be kept at the 
proper temperature for a long time without difficulty, and thus prepared, 
it forms one of the most healthful of foods. 

Milk, either cold or hot, should be taken a few sips only at a time, 
and not be drank in copious draughts when used in connection with other 
foods at mealtime. It will then coagulate in the stomach in small flakes 
much more easily digested than the large mass resulting when a large 
quantity is swallowed at a time. 



MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. ^JJ 

Devonshire or ('lotted ('ream. — This is prepared as follows : Strain 
the milk as it comes fresh from the cow into a deep pan which will fit 
tightly over a kettle in which water can be boiled, and set away in a cool^ 
well-ventilated place, where it should be allowed to remain undisturbed 
from eight to twelve hours or longer. Then take the pan up very care- 
fully so as not to disturb the cream, place over a kettle of water, heat to 
near the boiling point, or until a rim of bubbles half an inch wide forms all 
around the dish of milk. It must not, however, be allowed to boil, or the 
cream will be injured. Now lift the pan again with equal care back to a 
cool place and allow it to stand from twelve to twenty-four hours longer. 
The cream should be a compact mass of considerable thickness, and may 
be divided with a knife into squares of convenient size before skimming. 
It is delicious for use on fruit and grains. 

Cottage Cheese. — This dish is usually prepared from milk which has 
curdled from lack of proper care, or from long standing exposed to the air, 
and which is thus in some degree decomposing. But the fact that the 
casein of milk is coagulated by the use of acids makes it possible to pre- 
pare this dish in a more wholesome manner without waiting for decompo- 
sition of the milk. Add to each four quarts of milk one cupful of lemon 
juice ; let it stand until coagulated, then heat slowly, but do not boil, until 
the curd has entirely separated from the whey. Turn the whole into a 
colander lined with a square of clean cheese cloth, and drain off the whey. 
Add to the curd a little salt and cream, mix all together with a spoon or 
the hands, and form into cakes or balls for the table. The use of lemon 
gives a delicious flavor, which may be intensified, if desired, by using a 
trifle of the grated yellow rind. 

Cottag'e Cheese from Buttermilk. — Place a pail of fresh buttermilk in a 
kettle of boiling water, taking care to have sufficient water to come up even 
with the milk in the pail. Let the buttermilk remain until it is heated 
throughout to about 140°, which can be determined by keeping a ther- 
mometer in the milk and stirring it frequently. When it is sufficiently 
heated, empty the curd into strong muslin bags and hang up to drain for 
several hours. If properly scalded and drained, the curd will be quite dry 
and may be seasoned and served the same as other cottage cheese. If 
scalded too much, it will be watery. 

Cottagre Cheese with Sour Milk. — Take a pan of newly-loppered thick 
sour milk, and place it over a kettle of boiling water until the whey sepa- 
rates from the curd, breaking and cutting the curd as the milk becomes 
warmed, so as to allow the whey, to settle. The milk should be well 
scalded, but not allowed to boil, as that will render the curd tough and 
leathery. Have ready a clean piece of cheese cloth spread inside a col- 
ander, dip the curd into it, and leave it to drain. If preferred, the corners 



37^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

of the cloth may be tied with a string, thus forming a bag in which the 
cheese may be hung up to drain. When well drained, remove the dry 
curd to a dish, rub it fine with the hands, add salt, and season with sweet 
cream, beating it well through the curd with a silver fork. It may be 
shaped into balls with the hands or pressed in large cups or bowls. 

French Butter. — Fill a large, wide-mouthed glass bottle or jar about 
half full of thick sweet cream. Cork tightly, and with one end of the 
bottle in each hand shake it vigorously back and forth until the butter 
has separated from the milk, which it will generally do in a few minutes. 
Work out the buttermilk, make into small pats, and place on ice until 
ready to serve. As a rule this butter is not washed or salted, as it is 
intended for immediate use. 

Shaken Milk. — Fit a conical tin cup closely over a glass of milk and 
shake it vigorously until all of a foam, after which it should be slowly 
sipped at once; or a glass of milk may be put into a quart fruit can, the 
cover tightly screwed on, and then shaken back and forth until the milk 
is foamy. 

Emidsifled Butter. — Boil the butter with water for half an hour to 
destro)' any germs it may contain ; use plenty of water and add the butter 
to it while cold. When boiled, remove from the fire and allow it to be- 
come nearly cold, when the butter will have risen to the top and may be 
removed with a skimmer, or it may be separated from the water by turn- 
ing the whole after cooling into a clean strainer cloth placed inside a col- 
ander. The butter may be pressed in the cloth if any water still remains. 
If hardened, reheat just sufficient to soften, and add to it, while still hquid, 
but cooled to about blood heat, the yolk of one egg for each tablespoonful 
of butter, and stir until very thoroughly mingled. 

Or, add to each tablespoonful of the liquid butter two level tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, rub together thoroughly, and cook until thickened in a half 
cupful of boiling water. If cream is not obtainable and butter must be 
used for seasoning, it is preferable to prepare it in one of the above ways 
for the purpose, using the quantity given as an equivalent of one cupful 
of thin cream. It will be evident, however, that these preparations will 
not only season but thicken whatever they are used in, and that additional 
liquid should be used on that account. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



A LITTLE six-year-old huy \\c;U into the country visiting. About the I'lrst thing 
he got was a bowl of bread and milk. He tasted it, and then hesitated a nionient, 
when his mother asked if he did n't like it ; to which he replied, smacking his lips, 
" Yes, ma'am. I was only wishing that our milkman in town would keep a cow ! " 

When Horace Greeley was candidate for the presidency, he at one time visited 
New Orleans, whose old Creole residents gave him a dinner ; and to make it as fine an 
affair as possible, each of the many guests was laid under contribution for some of 
the rarest wines in his cellar. When dinner was announced, and the first course was 
completed, the waiter appeared at Mr. Greeley's seat with a plate of shrimp. " You 
can take them away," he said to the waiter, and then added to the horrified French 
Creole gentleman who presided, " I never eat insects of any kind." Later on, soup 
was served, and at the same time a glass of white wine was placed at Mr. Greeley's 
right hand. He pushed it quietly away, but not unobserved by the chief host. " Do 
you not drink wine ? " he asked. 

" No," answered Mr. Greeley ; "I never drink any liquors." 

"Is there anything you would like to drink with your soup?" the host then 
asked, a little disappointed. 

"If you 've got it," answered Mr. Greeley, "and it isn't any trouble, I 'd like a 
glass of fresh buttermilk." 

Said the host afterward in his broken English, " Ze idea of electing to ze presi- 
dency a man vot drink buttermilk vis his soup I " 

Old friendships are often destroyed liy toasted cheese, and hard salted meat has 
often led to suicide. — Sydney Smitli. 

A (iERMA.N sitting beside a Spanish officer on board a Havana steamer, was 
munching Limberger cheese with evident satisfaction when it occurred to him that 
he ought to offer some to his neighbor, who very coolly declined. "You think it 
unhealthful to eat that ? " inquired the German in polite astonishment. " Unhealth- 
ful ?^'' exclaimed the Hidalgo, with a withering look and a gasp for a more adequate 
word ; "No, sir : I think it an unnatural crime ! " — Oswald. 

Good for Dyspepsia. — "Really, don't you think cheese is good for dyspep- 
sia ?" said an advocate of the use of this common article of food. "Why, my uncle 
had dyspepsia all his life, and he took a bit of cheese at the close of every meal ! " 

Mattieu Williams tells us, " When common sense and true sentiment supplant 
mere unreasoning prejudice, vegetable oils and vegetable fats will largely supplant 
those of animal origin in every element of our dietary." 



[379] 




fTr:^S will be seen from the analysis given below, an cijsr is 
(Wf particularly rich in nitrogenous elements. It is indeed 
|'/^1| one of the most highly concentrated forms of nitroge- 
^^<^?;^^ nous food, about one third of its weight being solid nu- 
triment, and for this reason is often found serviceable in cases 
of sickness Avhere it is desirable to secure a large amount of 
nourishment in small bulk. 

COMPOSITION OF THE WHITE OF AN ORDINARY HEN'S EGG. 

Nitrogenous matter 20.4 

Fatty matter 0.0 

Mineral matter 1.6 

Water 6S.0 



COMPOSITION OF THE YOLK. 



Nitrogenous matter i.o 

Fatty matter 30. 7 

Mineral matter i . ^ 

Water ^2.0 

The white of egg is composed mainly of albumen in a dis- 
solved state, inclosed in layers of thin membrane. When beat- 
en, the membranes are broken, and the liberated albumen, owing 
[3S0] 



EGGS. 381 

to its viscous or glutinous nature, entangles and retains a large 
amount of air, thus increasing to several tirnes its original bulk. 

The yolk contains all the fatty matter, and this, with a modi- 
fied form of albumen called vitellin, forms a kind of yellow 
emulsion. It is inclosed in a thin membrane, which separates 
it from the surrounding white. 

The yolk, being lighter than the white, floats to that por- 
tion of the egg which is uppermost, but is held in position by 
two membranous cords, one from each end of the egg. The 
average weight of an egg is about two ounces, of which ten 
per cent consists of shell, sixty of white, and thirty of yolk. 

How to Choose Eggs. — The quality of eggs varies con- 
siderably, according to the food upon which the fowls are fed. 
Certain foods communicate distinct flavors, and it is quite 
probable that eggs may be rendered unwholesome through 
the use of filthy or improper food ; hence it is always best, 
when practicable, to ascertain respecting the diet and care of 
the fowls before purchasing eggs. 

On no account select eggs about the freshness of which 
there is any reason to doubt. The use of stale eggs may 
result in serious disturbances of the digestive organs. 

An English gentleman who has investigated the subject 
quite thoroughly, finds upon careful microscopical examina- 
tion that stale eggs often contain cells of a peculiar fungoid 
growth, which seems to have developed from that portion of 
the egg which would have furnished material for the flesh and 
bones of the chick had the process of development been con- 
tinued. Experiments with such eggs upon dogs produce poi- 
sonous effects. 

There are several ways of determining with tolerable accu- 
racy respecting the freshness of an egg. A common test is 
to place it between the eye and a strong light. If fresh, the 
white will appear translucent, and the outline of the yolk can 
be distinctly traced. By keeping, eggs become cloudy, and 
when decidedly stale, a distinct, dark, cloud-like appearance 
may be discerned opposite some portion of the shell. Another 
test is to shake the egg gently at the ear ; if a gurgle or thud 



382 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

is heard, the egg is bad. Again, eggs may be tested by drop- 
ping into a vessel containing a solution of salt and water, in the 
proportion of a tablespoonful to a quart. Newly laid eggs will 
sink ; if more than six days old, they will float in the liquid ; 
if bad, they will be so light as to ride on the surface of the 
brine. The shell of a freshly laid egg is almost full ; but ow- 
ing to the porous character of the shell, with age and exposure 
to air a portion of the liquid substance of which the egg is 
composed evaporates, and air accumulates in its place at one 
of the extremities of the shell. Hence an egg loses in density 
from day to day, and the longer the egg has been kept, the 
lighter it becomes, and the higher it will rise in the liquid. 

An egg that will float on the surface of the liquid is of too 
questionable a character to be used without breaking, and is 
apt to be unfit for use at all. 

How to Keep Eggs. — To preserve the interior of an egg 
in its natural state, it is necessary to seal the pores of the 
shell air-tight, as the air which finds its way into the egg 
through the pores of the shell causes gradual decomposition. 
Various methods are devised to exclude the air and thus pre- 
serve the egg. A good way is to dip perfectly fresh eggs into 
a thick solution of gum-arabic, — equal parts of gum and water, 
— let the eggs dry and dip them again, taking care that the 
shells are entirely covered with the solution each time. When 
dry, wrap separately in paper and pack in a box of sawdust, 
bran, salt, or powdered charcoal, and cover tightly to keep out 
the air. 

There is a difference of opinion as to which end should be 
placed down in packing ; most authorities recommend the 
smaller end. However, an experienced poultryman offers 
the following reasons for packing with the larger end down : 
" The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed 
down, the yolk will not break through and touch the shell and 
thereby spoil. Another thing : if the air-chamber is down, 
the egg is not so liable to shrink away." 

It would be well for housekeepers to make the test by 
[tacking eggs from the same lot each way and noting the 
result. 



EGGS. 383 

Melted wax or suet may be used to coat the shells. Eggs 
are sometimes immersed and kept in a solution of lime water, 
a pound of lime to a gallon of cold water, or simply packed 
in bran or salt, without a previous coating of fat or gum. By 
any of these methods they will keep for several weeks. Eggs, 
however, readily absorb flavors from surrounding substances, 
and for that reason lime water or salt solution are somewhat 
objectionable. Nothing of a disagreeable odor should be 
placed near eggs. 

Eggs for boiling may be preserved by placing in a deep 
pan, and pouring scalding water over them. Let them stand 
half a minute, drain off the water, and repeat the process two 
or three times. Wipe dry, and when cool, pack in bran. 

Eggs should be kept in a cool, not cold, place and handled 
carefully, as rough treatment may cause the mingling of the 
yolk and white by rupturing the membrane which separates 
them ; then the egg will spoil quickly. 

The time required for the digestion of a perfectly cooked 
egg varies from three to four hours. 

It is generally conceded that eggs lightly cooked are most 
readily digested. What is generally termed a hard-boiled egg 
is not easily acted upon by the digestive juices, and any other 
manner of cooking by which the albumen becomes hardened 
and solid offers great resistance to digestion. 

To Beat Eggs. — This may seem trivial, but no dish requir- 
ing eggs can be prepared in perfection, unless they are properly 
beaten, even if every other ingredient is the best. An egg- 
beater or an egg-whip is the most convenient utensil for the 
purpose; but if either of these is not to be had, a silver fork 
will do very well, and with this the beating should be done in 
sharp, quick strokes, dipping the fork in and out in rapid suc- 
cession, while the egg should grow firmer and stiffer with every 
stroke. When carelessly beaten, the result will be a coarse 
and frothy instead of a thick and cream-like mass. Use a bowl 
in beating eggs with an egg-beater, and a plate when a fork or 
egg-whip is employed. 

If the white and yolk are used separately, break the shells 
gently about the middle, opening slowly so as to let the white 



384 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

fall into the dish, while retaining the yolk in one half of the 
shell. If part of the white remains, turn the yolk from the 
one half to the other till the white has fallen. Beat the yolks 
until they change from their natural orange color to a much 
lighter yellow. The whites should be beaten until firm and dry 
enough not to fall from the bowl if turned upside down. The 
yolk should always be beaten first, since, if the white is left to 
stand after being beaten, a portion of the air, which its vis- 
cous nature allows it to catch up, escapes and no amount of 
beating will render it so firm a second time. Eggs which need 
to be washed before breaking should always be wiped perfectly 
dry, that no water may become mingled with the egg, as the 
water may dilute the albumen sufficiently to prevent the 
white from becoming firm and stiff when beaten. 

In cold weather, it is sometimes difficult to beat the whites 
as stiff as desirable. Albumen is quite susceptible to tempera- 
ture, and this difficulty may be overcome by setting the dish in 
which the eggs are beaten into warm water — not hot by any 
means — during the process of beating. In very hot weather 
it is often advantageous to leave the eggs in cold or ice water 
for a short time before beating. When a number of eggs are 
to be used, always break each by itself into a saucer, so that 
any chance stale egg may not spoil the whole. If the white 
or yolk of an egg is left over, it may be kept for a day or two 
if put in a cool place, the yolk thoroughly beaten, the white 
unbeaten. 

RECIPES. 

Eg'g's in Shell. — The usual method of preparing eggs for serving in 
this way is to put them into boiling water, and boil or simmer until they 
are considered sufficiently cooked. Albumen, of which the white of the 
egg is composed, is easiest digested when simply coagulated. The yolk, 
if cooked at all, is easiest digested when dry and mealy. Albumen coagu- 
lates at 160°, and when the boiling point is reached, it becomes hard- 
ened, tough, and leathery, and very difificult of digestion. If the egg were 
all albumen, it might be easily and properly cooked by dropping into boil- 
ing water, allowing it to remam for a few seconds, and removing it, 
since the shell of the egg would prevent its becoming sufficiently heated 



EGGS. 385 

in so short a time as to become hardened ; but the time necessary to 
cook properly the white of the egg would be insufficient for the heat to 
penetrate to and cook the yolk ; and if it is desirable to cook the yolk hard, 
the cooking process should be carried on at a temperature below the boil- 
ing point, subjecting the egg to a less degree of heat, but for a longer time. 
The most accurate method is to put the eggs into water of a temperature 
of 160°, allowing them to remain for twenty minutes and not permitting 
the temperature of the water to go above 170°, Cooked in this way, the 
white will be of a soft, jelly-like consistency throughout, while the yolks 
will be hard. If it is desired to have the yolks dry and mealy, the tem- 
perature of the water must be less, and the time of cooking lengthened. 
We have secured the most perfect results with water at a temperature of 
150", and seven hours' cooking. The temperature of the v/ater can be 
easily tested by keeping in it an ordinary thermometer, and if one pos- 
sesses a kerosene or gas stove, the heat can be easily regulated to maintain 
the required temperature. 

Another method, although less sure, is to pour boiling water into a 
saucepan, draw it to one side of the range where it will keep hot, but not 
boil, put in the eggs, cover, and let stand for twenty minutes. If by 
either method it is desired to have the yolk soft-cooked, lessen the time 
to ten minutes or so, according to the hardness desired. Eggs are best 
served as soon as done, as the white becomes more solid by being kept in 
a hot shell. 

It should be remarked that the time necessary to cook eggs in the 
shell will vary somewhat with the firmness of the shell, the size of the 
eggs, and the number cooked together. 

Eg"g"S in Simshiiie. — Take an earthenware dish which will stand heat 
and also do to use in serving the eggs. Oil it and break therein as many 
eggs as desired ; sprinkle lightly with salt, and put into the oven for two 
or more minutes till the eggs are set. Have ready some hot tomato sauce 
prepared as for Tomato Toast ; pour the sauce over them, and serve. 

Eg'g'S Poached in Tomatoes. — Take a pint of stewed tomatoes, cooked 
until they are homogeneous or which have been rubbed through a colander ; 
season with salt if desired, and heat. When just beginning to boil, slip 
in gently a half dozen eggs, the shells of which have been so carefully 
broken that the yolks are intact. Keep the tomato just below the boiling 
point until the eggs are cooked. Lift the whites carefully with a fork as 
they cook, until they are firm, then prick them and let the yellow mix with 
the tomato and the whites. The whole should be quite soft when done, 
but showing the red of the tomatoes and the white and yellow of the eggs 
quite distinctly. Serve on toast. If the flavor is agreeable, a little onion 
minced very finely may be cooked with the tomatoes. 

25 



386 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

'Eggs in Cream. — Put a half cupful or more of cream into a shallow 
earthen dish, and place the dish in a kettle or pan of boiling water. When 
the cream is hot, break in as many eggs as the bottom of the dish will 
hold, and cook until well set, basting them occasionally over the top with 
the hot cream. Or, put a spoonful or two of cream into individual egg or 
vegetable dishes, break a fresh egg in each, and cook in the oven or 
in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water until the white of the egg 
is well set. 

Poached or Dropped Eggs. — Break each egg into a saucer by itself. 
Have a shallow pan half filled with scalding, not boiling, water on the 
stove. If desired, a little salt and a tablespoonful of lemon juice may be 
added. Slip the eggs gently from the saucer upon the top of the water, 
holding the edge of the saucer under water to prevent the eggs from 
scattering ; dip the water over them with a spoon and let them stand five 
minutes, or until the yolk is covered with a film, and the white is firm but 
not hardened ; keep the water just below the boiling point. Take out the 
eggs one by one on a skimmer, and serve in egg-saucers, or on slices of 
nicely browned toast moistened with a little sweet cream, as preferred. 
If one is especially particular to keep the shape of the eggs, an egg 
poacher should be used, or a set of muffin-rings may be laid in the 
bottom of the pan, and the eggs turned into the rings. 

Poached Eggs with Cream Sauce. — Poach eggs as in the foregoing, and 
pour over them a sauce made according to directions on page 351. 

Quickly Prepared Eggs. — A good way to cook quickly a large number 
of eggs, is to use a large-bottomed earthen dish, which will stand the heat 
and in which the eggs may be served. Oil it well ; break the requisite 
number of eggs separately, and turn each carefully into the dish ; sprinkle 
lightly with salt ; set the dish in the oven or in a steamer over a kettle of 
boiling water for a few minutes until the eggs are set, then serve. 

Scrambled Eggs, — Beat four eggs lightly, add a little salt if desired, 
and half a cup of milk or cream. Have ready a hot, oiled saucepan ; turn 
the eggs in and cook quickly, stirring constantly until firm, but soft. 

Steamed Eggs. — Break eggs into egg or vegetable dishes or patty- 
pans, salt very lightly, and set in a steamer over a kettle of boiling 
water until the whites are set and a film has formed over the yolk. 
Serve the same as poached eggs, with or without toast. 

Wliirled Eggs. — Have a small kettle of water heated almost to boil- 
ing, and with a wooden spoon, stir it rapidly round and round in the same 
direction until a miniature whirlpool is produced. Have ready some eggs 
broken in separate cups, and drop them carefully one at a time into the 
whirling water, the stirring of which must be kept up until the egg is a 
soft round ball. Remove with a skimmer, and serve on cream toast. 



EGGS. 387 



OMELETS. 

REC/PES. ^ 

Plain Omelet. — Beat the yolks of three eggs to a cream, and beat the 
whites to a stiff froth. Add to the yolks three tablespoonfuls of milk or 
cream, one tablespoonful of finely grated bread crumbs, and season lightly 
with salt ; lastly, fold, not stir, the whites lightly in. An omelet pan is 
the best utensil for cooking, but if that is not to be had, an earthen-ware 
pudding dish which will stand the heat is good ; an iron spider will do, 
but a larger omelet would need to be prepared. A tin saucepan is apt 
to cook the omelet so rapidly as to burn it in spots. Whatever the utensil 
used, it should be hot, the fire clear and steady, and all in readiness by 
the time the eggs are beaten. 

Oil the dish well and gently pour in the omelet mixture ; cover, and 
place the pan on the range where the heat will be continuous. Do not 
stir, but carefully, as the egg sets, lift the omelet occasionally by slipping 
a broad-bladed knife under it, or with a fork by dipping in here and there. 
It should cook quickly, but not so quickly as to burn. From three to 
five minutes will generally be ample time. When the middle of the omelet 
is set, it may be put into a hot oven to dry the top. As soon as the 
center is dry, it should be removed immediately, as it will be hard and 
indigestible if overdone. To dish, loosen from the pan by running a knife 
under it, lay a hot platter, bottom upward, over the pan, and invert the 
latter so as to shake out the omelet gently, browned side uppermost ; or if 
preferred, double one part over the other before dishing. Serve at once, 
or it will fall. 

An omelet of three eggs is sufficient for two or three persons ; if more 
is desired, a second omelet of three eggs may be made. Larger ones are 
not so light nor so easily prepared. The dish used should be reserved 
for that purpose alone, and should be kept as smooth and dry as possible. 
It is better to keep it clean by wiping with a coarse towel than by washing, 
if the omelet comes from the pan perfectly whole and leaving no frag- 
ments behind. 

Foam Omelet. — Prepare as above, leaving out the white of one egg, 
which must be beaten to a stiff froth and spread over the top of the omelet 
after it is well set. Let this white just heat through by the time the ome- 
let is done. Fold the omelet together, and dish. The whites will burst 
out around the edges like a border of foam. 

Fancy Omelets. — Various fancy omelets may be made by adding other 
ingredients and preparing the same as for plain omelets. Two or three 



388 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

tablespoonfuls of orange juice instead of milk, with a little grated rind 
for flavor and three tablespoonfuls of sugar, may be combined with the 
eggs and called an orange omelet. 

A little cold cauliflower or cooked asparagus chopped very fine and 
mixed in when the omelet is ready for the pan, may be denominated a 
vegetable omelet. 

Soft Omelet. — Beat together thoroughly one quart of milk and six 
eggs. Season with salt. Pour into a shallow earthen pudding dish, and 
bake in the oven until well set. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The candidates for ancient athletic games were dieted on boiled grain, with 
warm water, cheese, dried figs, but no meat. 

An Unpleasant Reminder. — (Scene, Thanksgiving dinner, everybody com- 
menting on the immense size of the turkey.) An appalling silence fell upon the 
crowd when Tommy cried out, "Mamma, is that the old sore-headed turkey?" 

The eminent Prof. Wilder was reared a vegetarian, having passed his earlier 
years without even knowing that flesh food was ever eaten by human beings. When 
six years old, he saw on the table for the first time, a roasted chicken, at which he 
gazed for some moments in great bewilderment, when he seemed to make a dis- 
covery, and in his astonishment burst out with the remark, "I'll bet that's a 
dead hen ! " 

A STORY is told of a minister who was spending the day in the country, and was 
invited to dine. There was chicken for dinner, much to the grief of a little boy of 
the household, who had lost his favorite hen to provide for the feast. After dinner, 
prayer was proposed, and while the preacher was praying, a poor little lonesome 
chicken came running under the" house, crying for its absent mother. The little boy 
could restrain himself no longer. He put his mouth down to a hole in the floor, and 
shouted, " Peepy ! Peepy ! I did n't kill your mother ! They killed her for that big 
preacher's dinner ! " The " Amen " was said very suddenly. 





%yii^&f^':^ 



WIWHIS is the term usually applied to the flesh and various 
(iJ "%) organs of such animals, poultry, and game as are used 
/d jJj)' for food. This class of foods contains representatives of 
i^J all nutritive elements, but is especially characterized by 
an excess of albuminous matter. Ikit in actual nutritive value 
flesh foods do not exceed various other food materials. A 
comparison of the food grains with beefsteak and other flesh 
foods, shows, in fact, that a pound of grain is equivalent in food 
value to two or three pounds of flesh. 

At the present time there is much question in the minds 
of many intelligent, thinking people as to the propriety of 
using foods of this class, and especially of their frequent use. 
Besides being in no way superior to vegetable substances, they 
contain elements of an excrementitious character, which cannot 
be utilized, and which serve only to clog and impede the vital 
processes, rendering the blood gross, filling the body with 
second-hand waste material which was working its way out 
of the vital domain of the animal when slaughtered. To this 

[389] 



390 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

waste matter, consisting of unexpelled excretions, are added 
those produced by the putrefactive processes which so quickly 
begin in flesh foods exposed to air and warmth. 

That flesh foods are stimulating has been shown by many 
observations and experiments. 

Flesh foods are also specially liable to be diseased and to 
communicate to the consumer the same disease. The preva- 
lence of disease among animals used for food is known to be 
very great, and their transmission to man is no longer a 
matter of dispute. It has been abundantly proved that such 
diseases as the parasitic, tuberculous, erysipelatous, and 
foot and mouth diseases are most certainly communicable to 
man by infected flesh. All stall and sty fed animals are more 
or less diseased. Shut up in the dark, cut off from exercise, 
the whole fattening process is one of progressive disease. No 
living creature could long retain good health under such un- 
natural and unwholesome conditions. Add to this the exhaus- 
tion and abuse of animals before slaughtering ; the suffering 
incident to long journeys in close cars, often without sufficient 
food and water ; and long drives over dusty roads under a 
burning sun to the slaughter house, and it will be apparent to 
all thoughtful persons that such influences are extremely liable 
to produce conditions of the system that render the flesh unfit 
for food. 

Thousands of animals are consumed each year which were 
slaughtered just in time to save them from dying a natural 
death. It is a common thing for cattle owners, as soon as an 
animal shows symptoms of decline, to send it to the butcher 
at once ; and when epidemics of cattle diseases are prevalent, 
there can be no doubt that the meat markets are flooded with 
diseased flesh. 

There are few ways in which we can more effectually im- 
peril our health than in partaking freely of diseased animal food. 
This is no new theory. The Jews have for ages recognized 
this danger, and their laws require the most careful examina- 
tion of all animals to be used as food, both before and after 
slaughtering. Their sanitary regulations demand that beast 



MEATS. 391 

or fowl for food must be killed by bleeding through the jugular 
vein, and not, according to custom, by striking on the head, 
or in some violent way. Prior to the killing, the animal must 
be well rested and its respiration normal ; after death the most 
careful dissection and examination of the various parts are 
made by a competent person, and no flesh is allowed to be used 
for food which has not been inspected and found to be per- 
fectly sound and healthy. As a result, it is found in many of 
our large cities that only about one in twenty of the animals 
slaughtered is accepted as food for a Jew. The rejected ani- 
mals are sold to the general public, who are less scrupulous 
about the character of their food, and who are in consequence 
more subject to disease and shorter-lived than are Jews. 

Trichinae, tapeworms, and various other parasites which 
infest the flesh of animals, are so common that there is always 
more or less liability to disease from these sources among con- 
sumers of flesh foods. 

Meat is by no means necessary for the proper maintenance 
of life or vigorous health, as is proved by the fact that at least 
" four tenths of the human race," according to Virey, " subsist 
exclusively upon a vegetable diet, and as many as seven tenths 
are practically vegetarians." Some of the finest specimens 
of physical development and mental vigor are to be found 
among those who use very little or no animal food. Says 
St. Pierre, a noted French author, " The people living upon 
vegetable foods are of all men the handsomest, the most vigor- 
ous, the least exposed to disease and passion ; and they are 
those whose lives last longest." 

The use of large quantities of animal food, however free 
from disease germs, has a tendency to develop the animal pro- 
pensities to a greater or less degree, especially in the young, 
whose characters are unformed. Among animals we find the 
carnivorous the most vicious and destructive, while those 
which subsist upon vegetable foods are by nature gentle and 
tractable. There is little doubt that this law holds good among 
men as well as animals. If we study the character and lives 
of those who subsist largely upon animal food, we are apt to 



392 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

find them impatient, passionate, fiery in temper, and in other 
respects greatly under the dominion of their lower natures. 

There are many other objections to the use of this class of 
foods — so many in fact that we believe the human race would 
be far healthier, better, and happier if flesh foods were wholly 
discarded. If, however, they are to be used at all, let them 
be used sparingly and prepared in the simplest and least 
harmful manner. Let them be cooked and served in their own 
juices, not soaked in butter or other oils, or disguised by the 
free use of pepper, mustard, catsup, and other pungent sauces. 
Salt also should be used only in the smallest possible quanti- 
ties, as it hardens the fiber, rendering it more difficult of 
digestion. 

We can conceive of no possible stretch of hygienic laws 
which admits the use of pork ; so we shall give it and its 
products no consideration in our pages. 

Such offal as calves' brains, sheep's kidneys, beef livers, and 
other viscera, is not fit food for any one but a scavenger. The 
liver and kidneys are depurating organs, and their use as food 
is not only unwholesome but often exceedingly poisonous. 

Meat pies, scallops, sauqes, fricassees, pdt^s, and other fancy 
dishes composed of a mixture of animal foods, rich pastry, 
fats, strong condiments, etc., are by no means to be recom- 
mended as hygienic, and will receive no notice in these pages. 
, In comparative nutritive value, beef ranks first among the 
flesh foods. Mutton, though less nutritive, is more easily di- 
gested than beef. This is not appreciable to a healthy person, 
but one whose digestive powers are weak will often find that 
mutton taxes the stomach less than beef 

Veal or lamb is neither so nutritious nor so easily digested 
as beef or mutton. Flesh from different animals, and that from 
various parts of the same animal, varies in flavor, composition, 
and digestibility. The mode of life and the food of animals 
influence in a marked manner the quality of the meat. Tur- 
nips give a distinctly recognizable flavor to mutton. The 
same is true of many fragrant herbs found by cattle feeding 
in pastures. 



MEATS. 393 

The Selection of Meat. — Good beef is of a reddish-brown 
color and contains no clots of blood. A pale-pink color indi- 
cates that the animal was diseased ; a dark-purple color that 
the animal has suffered from some acute febrile affection or was 
not slaughtered, but died with the blood in its body. 

Good beef is firm and elastic to the touch ; when pressed 
with the finger, no impression is left. It should be so dry upon 
the surface as scarcely to moisten the fingers. Meat that is 
wet, sodden, and flabby should not be eaten. Good beef is 
marbled with spots of white fat. The suet should be dry and 
crumble easily. If the fat has the appearance of wet parch- 
ment or is jelly-like, the beef is not good. Yellow fat is an 
indication of old, lean animals. 

Good beef has little or no odor. If any odor is perceptible, 
it is not disagreeable. Diseased meat has a sickly odor, resem- 
bling the breath of feverish persons. When such meat is 
roasted, it emits a strong, offensive smell. The condition of a 
piece of beef may be ascertained by dipping a knife in hot 
water, drying it, and passing it through the meat. Apply to 
the nose on withdrawal, and if the meat is not good, a disa- 
greeable odor will be quite perceptible. 

Good beef will not shrink greatly in cooking. In boiling 
or stewing, the shrinkage is computed to be about one pound 
in four ; in baking, one and one fourth pounds in four. Beef 
of a close, firm fiber shrinks less than meat of coarse fiber. 

Good veal is slightly reddish or pink, and the fat should be 
white and clear. Avoid veal without fat, as such is apt to be 
too young to be wholesome. 

Good mutton should be firm and compact, the flesh, fine- 
grained and bright-red, with an accumulation of very hard and 
clear white fat along the borders of the muscles. 

Meat should not be kept until decomposition sets in, as by 
the putrefaction of the albuminous elements certain organic 
poisons are generated, and flesh partaken of in this condition 
is liable to result in serious illness. Meat containing white 
specks is probably infested by parasites and should not be 
used as food. 



394 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Preservation of Meat. — The tendency of flesh foods to 
rapid decomposition has led to the use of various antiseptic 
agents and other methods for its preservation. 

One of the most common methods is that of immersion in 
a brine made of a solution of common salt to which a small 
portion of saltpeter has been added. This abstracts the juice 
from the meat and also lessens the tendency to putrefaction. 
Salt is used in various other ways for preserving meat. It 
should be remarked, however, that cured and dried meats are 
much more difficult to digest than fresh meat, and the nature 
of the meat itself is so changed by the process as to render its 
nutritive value much less. 

Meat is sometimes packed in salt and afterward dried, 
either in the sun or in a current of dry air. Both salting and 
smoking are sometimes employed. By these means the juices 
are abstracted by the salt, and at the same time the flesh is 
contracted and hardened by the action of creosote and pyrolig- 
neous acid from the smoke. 

What is termed "jerked" beef is prepared by drying in a 
current of warm air at about 140°. This dried meat, when 
reduced to a powder and packed in air-tight cans, may be pre- 
served for a long time. When mixed with fat, it forms the 
pemmican used by explorers in Arctic voyages. 

Meat is also preserved by cooking and inclosing in air-tight 
cans after the manner of canning fruit. This process is varied 
in a number of ways. 

The application of cold has great influence in retarding 
decomposition, and refrigeration and freezing are often em- 
ployed for the preservation of flesh foods. 

All of these methods except the last are open to the objec- 
tion that while they preserve the meat, they greatly lessen its 
nutritive value. It should also be understood that the de- 
composition of its flesh begins almost the moment an animal 
dies, and continues at a slow rate even when the flesh is kept 
at a low temperature. The poisons resulting from this de- 
composition are often deadly, and are always detrimental to 
health. 



MEATS. 395 

The Preparation and Cooking of Meat. — Meat, when 
brought from the market, should be at once removed from the 
paper in which it is wrapped, as the paper will absorb the juices 
of the meat ; and if the wrapping is brown paper, the meat is 
liable to taste of it. Joints of meat should not be hung with 
the cut surface down, as the juices will be wasted. 

Meat kept in a refrigerator should not be placed directly on 
the ice, but always upon plates or shelves, as the ice will freeze 
it or else draw out its juices. 

If meat is accidentally frozen, it should be thoroughly 
thawed in cold water before cutting. Meat should not be 
cleaned by washing with water, as that extracts the nutritive 
juices, but by thoroughly wiping the outside with a damp 
cloth. The inside needs no cleaning. 

Meat may be cooked by any of the different methods of 
cookery, — boiling, steaming, stewing, roasting, broiling, bak- 
ing, etc., ^ according as the object is to retain the nutriment 
wholly within the meat ; to draw it all out into the water, as 
in soups or broths ; or to have it partly in the water and partly 
in the meat, as in stews. Broiling is, however, generally con- 
ceded to be the most wholesome method, but something will 
necessarily depend upon the quality of the meat to be cooked. 

Meat which has a tough, hard fiber will be made tenderest 
by slow, continuous cooking, as stewing. Such pieces as con- 
tain a large amount of gelatine — a peculiar substance found in 
the joints and gristly parts of meat, and which hardens in a 
dry heat — are better stewed than roasted. 

Boiling. — The same principles apply to the boiling of all 
kinds of meats. The purpose to be attained by this method 
is to keep the nutritive juices so far as possible intact within 
the meat ; consequently, the piece to be cooked should be left 
whole, so that only a small amount of surface will be exposed 
to the action of the water. Since cold water extracts albumen, 
of which the juices of the meat are largely composed, while hot 
water coagulates it, meat to be boiled should be plunged into 
boiling water sufficient to cover it and kept there for five or 
ten minutes, by which time the albumen over the entire sur- 



39^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

face will have become hardened, thus forming a coat through 
which the juices cannot escape. Afterward the kettle, closely- 
covered, may be set aside where the water will retain a tem- 
perature of about 1 80°. A small portion of albumen from the 
outer surface will escape into the water in the form of scum, 
and should be removed. 

Meat cooked in this way will require a longer time than 
when the water is kept boiling furiously, but it is superior in 
every respect and more digestible. Something depends upon 
the shape of the piece cooked, thin pieces requiring less time 
than a thick, cubical cut ; but approximately, first allowing 
fifteen or twenty minutes for the heat to penetrate the center 
of the meat, at which time the real process of cooking begins, 
it will require from twelve to fifteen minutes for every pound 
cooked. 

SteTsring. — While the object in boiling is to preserve the 
juices within the meat as much as possible, in stewing, the proc- 
ess is largely reversed ; the juices are to be partly extracted. 
Some of the juices exist between the fibers, and some are found 
within the fibers. The greater the surface exposed, the more 
easily these juices will be extracted ; hence meat for stewing 
should be cut into small pieces and cooked in a small quantity 
of water. Since cold water extracts the albuminous juices, 
while boiling water hardens them into a leathery consistency, 
water used for stewing should be neither cold nor boiling, but 
of a temperature which will barely coagulate the albumen and 
retain it in the meat in as tender a condition as possible ; i. e., 
about 134° to 160°. To supply this temperature for the pro- 
longed process of cooking necessary in stewing, a double boiler 
of some form is quite necessary. Put the pieces of meat to be 
stewed in the inner dish, add hot water enough to cover, fill 
the outer boiler with hot water, and let this outer water sim- 
mer very gently until the meat is perfectly tender. The 
length of time required will be greater than when meat is 
stewed directly in simmering water, but the result will be 
much more satisfactory. The juices should be served with 
the meat. 



MEATS. 397 

Steaming. — Meat is sometimes steamed over boiling 
water until it is made very tender and afterward browned in 
the oven. 

Another method of steaming, sometimes called smothering, 
is that of cooking meat in a tightly covered jar in a moderate 
oven for an hour (the moderate heat serves to draw out the 
juice of the meat), after which the heat is increased, and the 
meat cooked in its own juices one half hour for each pound. 

Roasting. — This method, which consists in placing meat 
upon a revolving spit and cooking it before an open fire, is 
much less employed now than formerly, when fireplaces were 
in general use. What is ordinarily termed roasting is in real- 
ity cooking meat in its own juices in a hot oven. In cooking 
meat by this method it is always desirable to retain the juices 
entirely within the meat, which can be best accomplished by 
first placing the clean-cut sides of the meat upon a smoking- 
hot pan over a quick fire ; press the meat close to the pan 
until well seared and slightly browned, then turn over and sear 
the opposite side in the same manner. This will form a coat- 
ing of hardened albumen, through which the interior juices 
cannot escape. Put at once into the oven, arrange the fire so 
that the heat will be firm and steady but not too intense, and 
cook undisturbed until tender. 

Basting is not necessary if the roast is carefully seared and 
the oven kept at proper temperature. When the heat of the 
oven is just right, the meat will keep up a continuous gentle 
sputtering in the pan. If no sputtering can be heard, the heat 
is insufficient. The heat is too great when the drippings burn 
and smoke. 

Broiling. — This is the method employed for cooking thin 
cuts of meat in their own juices over glowing coals. When 
properly done, broiled meat contains a larger amount of unco- 
agulated albumen than can be secured by cooking in any other 
manner ; hence it is the most wholesome. For broiling, a bed 
of clear, glowing coals without flame is the first essential. 
Coke, charcoal, or anthracite coal serves best for securing this 
requisite. 



398 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

t 

In an ordinary stove, the coals should be nearly to the top 
of the fire-box, that the meat may be held so as almost to 
touch the fire. No utensil is better for ordinary purposes than 
a double wire broiler. First, rub it well with a bit of suet, 
then put in the meat with the thickest part in the center. 
Wrap a coarse towel around the hand to protect it from the 
heat, hold the meat as near the fire as possible, so as to sear 
one side instantly, slowly count ten, then turn and sear the 
other side. Continue the process, alternating first one side and 
then the other, slowly counting ten before each turning, until 
the meat is sufficiently done. Successful broiling is largely 
dependent upon frequent turning. The heat, while it at once 
sears the surface, starts the flow of the juices, and although 
they cannot escape through the hardened surface, if the meat 
were entirely cooked on one side before turning, they would 
soon come to the top, and when it was turned over, would drip 
into the fire. If the meat is seared on both sides, the juices 
will be retained within, unless the broiling is too prolonged, 
when they will ooze out and evaporate, leaving the meat dry 
and leathery. Salt draws out the juices, and should not be 
added until the meat is done. As long as meat retains its 
juices, it will spring up instantly when pressed with a knife ; 
when the juices have begun to evaporate, it will cease to do 
this. Broiled meats should be served on hot dishes. 

BEEF. 

Economy and Adaptability in Selection. — While the 
greatest care should be exercised in the selection of beef as 
regards its soundness and wholesomeness, it must likewise be 
selected with reference to economy and adaptability for cook- 
ing purposes, pieces from different portions of the animal being 
suitable for cooking only in certain ways. Ox beef is said to 
be best. That beef is most juicy and tender which has fine 
streaks of fat intermingled with the lean. Beef which is coarse- 
grained and hard to cut is apt to be tough. An economical 
piece of beef to purchase is the back of the rump. It is a long 



MEATS. 399 

piece with only a small portion of bone, and weighs about ten 
pounds. The thickest portion may be cut into steaks, the thin 
end with bone may be utilized for soups and stews, while the 
remainder will furnish a good roast. Only a small portion of 
choice tender lean meat is to be found in one animal, and these 
are also the most expensive ; but the tougher, cheaper parts^ 
if properly cooked, are nearly as nutritious. 

REC/PES. 

Broiled Beef. — Beef for broiling sliould be juicy and have a tender 
fiber. Steaks cut from three parts of the beef are in request for this pur- 
pose, — tenderloin, porterhouse, and round steak. The last-named is the 
more common and economical, yet it is inferior in juice and tenderness to 
the other two. Steak should be cut three fourths of an inch or more in 
thickness. If it is of the right quality, do not pound it ; if very tough, 
beat with a steak-mallet or cut across it several times on both sides with a 
sharp knife. Wipe, and remove any bone and superfluous fat. Have the 
fire in readiness, the plates heating, then proceed as directed on page 398. 

Cold-Meat Stew. — Cut pieces of cold roast beef into thick slices and 
put into a stewpan with six or eight potatoes, a good-sized bunch of cel- 
ery cut into small pieces ; and a small carrot cut in dice may be added if 
the flavor is liked. Cover with hot water, and simmer for three fourths 
of an hour. Thicken with a little browned flour. 

Pan-broiled Steak. — In the absence of the necessary appliances for 
broiling over coals, the following method may be employed. Heat a clean 
skillet to blue heat, rub it with a bit of suet, just enough to keep the 
meat from sticking, but leave no fat in the pan. Lay in the steak, press- 
ing it down to the pan, and sear quickly on one side ; turn, and without 
cutting into the meat, sear upon the other. Keep the skillet hot but do 
not scorch ; cook from five to ten minutes, turning frequently, so as not 
to allow the juices to escape. Add no salt until done. Serve on hot 
plates. This method is not frying, and requires the addition of no water, 
butter, or stock. ' 

Pan-broiled Steak No. 2. — Take a smooth pancake-griddle, or in lieu 
of anything better, a clean stove-griddle may be used ; heat very hot and 
sear each side of the steak upon it. When well seared, lift the steak 
into a hot granite-ware or sheet-iron pan, cover, and put into a hot oven 
for two or three minutes, or until sufficiently cooked. 

Roast Beef. — The sirloin and rib and rump pieces are the best cuts 
for roasting. Wipe, trim, and skewer into shape. Sear the cut surfaces 



400 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

and proceed as directed on page 397, cooking twenty minutes to the pound 
if it is to be rare, less half an hour deducted on account of searing. 
The application of salt and water has a tendency to toughen the meat 
and draw out its juices ; so if it is desired to have the meat juicy and 
tender, it is better to cook without basting. Unless the heat of the oven 
is allowed to become too great, when meat is cooked after this manner 
there will be a quantity of rich, jelly-like material in the pan, which with 
the addition of a little water and flour may be made into a gravy. 

Smothered Beef. — Portions from the round, middle, or face of the 
rump are generally considered best for preparing this dish. Wipe with 
a clean wet cloth, put into a smoking-hot skillet, and carefully sear all cut 
surfaces. Put into a kettle, adding for a piece of beef weighing about six 
pounds, one cup of hot water. Cover closely and cook at a temperature 
just below boiling, until the meat is tender but not broken. As the water 
boils away, enough more boiling water may be added to keep the meat 
from burning. Another method of securing the same results is to cut 
the beef into small pieces and put into a moderate oven inside a tightly 
covered jar for an hour. Afterward increase the heat and cook closely 
covered until the meat is tender. Thicken and season the juice, and 
serve as a gravy. 

Tegetables with Stewed Beef. — Prepare the beef as directed for Stewed 
Beef, and when nearly tender, add six or eight potatoes. Just before serv- 
ing, thicken the gravy with a little browned flour braided in cold water, and 
add a cup of strained, stewed tomato and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

Stewed Beef. — The aitch-bone and pieces from the shin, the upper 
part of the chuck-rib and neck of beef, are the parts most commonly 
used for stewing. All meat for stews should be carefully dressed and free 
from blood. Those portions which have bone and fat, as well as lean 
beef, make much better-flavored stews than pieces which are wholly lean. 
The bones, however, should not be crushed or splintered, but carefully 
sawed or broken, and any small pieces removed before cooking. It is 
generally considered that beef which has been previously browned makes 
a much more savory ste\^, and it is quite customary first to brown the 
meat by frying in hot fat. A much more wholesome method, and one 
which will have the same eff'ect as to flavor, is to add to the stew the 
remnants of roasts or steak. It is well when selecting meat for a stew 
to procure a portion, which, like the aitch-bone, has enough juicy meat 
upon it to serve the first day as a roast for a small family. Cut the meat 
for a stew into small pieces suitable for serving, add boiling water, and 
cook as directed on page 396. Remove all pieces of bone and the fat 
before serving. If the stew is made of part cooked and part uncooked 
meat, the cooked meat should not be added until the stew is nearly done. 



MEATS. 401 

The liquor, if not of the proper consistency when the meat is tender, may 
be thickened by adding a httle flour braided in cold water, cooking there- 
after four or five minutes. 

MUTTON. 

The strong flavor of mutton is said to be due to the oil 
from the wool, which penetrates the skin, or is the result, 
through heedlessness or ignorance of the butcher, in allowing 
the wool to come in contact with the flesh. There is a quite 
perceptible difference in the flavor of mutton from a sheep 
which had been for some time sheared of its woolly coat and 
that from one having a heavy fleece. 

The smallest proportion of both fat and bone to muscle is 
found in the leg ; consequently this is the most valuable por- 
tion for food, and is likewise the most economical, being avail- 
able for many savory dishes. On account of the disagreeable 
adhesive qualities of its fat when cold, mutton should always 
be served hot. 

REC/PES. 

Boiled Leg: of Mutton. — Wipe carefully, remove the fat, and put into 
boiling water. Skim, and cook as directed on page 395, twelve minutes 
for each pound. 

Broiled Chops. — The best-flavored and most tender chops are those 
from the loins. Remove carefully all the pink skin above the fat, scrap- 
ing it off if possible without cutting into the lean. Wipe with a wet 
cloth, and broil in the same manner as beefsteak over hot coals or in 
a hot skillet, turning frequently until done ; five or eight minutes will 
suffice to cook. Sprinkle salt on each side, drain on paper, and serve hot. 

Pot-roast Lamb. — For this purpose a stone jar or pot is best, although 
iron or granite-ware will do ; wipe the meat well and gash with a sharp 
knife. If crowded closely in the pot, all the better ; cover with a lid 
pressed down firmly with a weight to hold it if it does not fit tightly. No 
water is needed, and no steam should be allowed to escape during the 
cooking. Roast four or five hours in a moderate oven. 

Ro.ast Mutton. — The best pieces for this purpose are those obtained 
from the shoulder, and saddle, loin, and haunches. Wipe carefully, sear 
the cut surfaces, and proceed as directed for roasting beef. Cook slowly 
without basting, and unless desired rare, allow twenty-five or thirty 
minutes to the pound. A leg of mutton requires a longer time to roast 
26 



402 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

than a shoulder. When sufficiently roasted, remove from the pan and 
drain off all the grease. 

Stewed Mutton. — Pieces from the neck and shoulder are most suitable 
for this purpose. Prepare the meat, and stew as directed for beef, 
although less time is usually required. 

Stewed Mutton Chop. — Wipe, trim off the fat, and remove the bone 
from two or three pounds of chops. Put into the inner dish of a double 
boiler with just enough hot water to cover ; add a minced stalk of celery, 
a carrot, and a white turnip cut in dice ; cover, and cook until the chops 
are tender. Sliced potato may be added if liked, when the meat is nearly 
done. Remove the grease and thicken the liquor with a little browned 
flour braided with thin cream. 

Stewed Mutton Chop No. 2. — Prepare the chops as in the preceding. 
Place a layer of meat in a deep baking dish, and then a layer of sliced 
potato, sprinkled with a little minced celery. Add two or more layers of 
meat, alternating with layers of potatoes. Cover with boiling water and 
bake closely covered in a very moderate oven two and a half hours. 

Veal and Lamb. — Both veal and lamb should be thoroughly cooked; 
otherwise they are not wholesome. They may be prepared for the table 
in the same way as beef or mutton, but will require longer time for 
cooking. 

POULTRY AND GAME. 

Poultry and game differ from other animal foods in the rela- 
tive quantity of fat and the quality of their juices. The fat of 
birds is laid up underneath the skin and in various internal 
parts of the body, while but a small proportion is mingled with 
the fibers or the juices of the flesh. The flesh of the chicken, 
turkey, and guinea-fowl is more delicately flavored, more ten- 
der and easy to digest, than that of geese and ducks. Chickens 
broiled require three hours for digestion ; when boiled or 
roasted, four hours are needed. 

The flesh of poultry is less stimulating than beef, and is 
thus considered better adapted for invalids. The flesh of wild 
fowl contains less fat than that of poultry ; it is also tender and 
easy of digestion. Different birds and different parts of the 
same bird, vary considerably in color and taste. The breed, 
food, and method of fattening, influence the quality of this 
class of foods. Fowls poorly fed and allowed wide range are 



MEATS. 403 

far from cleanly in their habits of eating ; in fact, they are 
largely scavengers, and through the food they pick up, often 
become infested with internal parasites, and affected with 
tuberculosis and other diseases which are liable to be commu- 
nicated to those who eat their flesh. 

Suggestions for the Selection of Poultry and Game. — 
The first care in the selection of poultry should be its freedom 
from disease. Birds deprived of exercise, shut up in close 
cages, and regularly stuffed with as much corn or soft food as 
they can swallow, may possess the requisite fatness, but it is 
of a most unwholesome character. When any fiving creature 
ceases to exercise, its excretory organs cease to perform their 
functions thoroughly, and its body becomes saturated with re- 
tained excretions. 

A stall-fed fowl may be recognized by the color of its fat, 
which is pale white, and lies In thick folds beneath the skin 
along the lower half of the backbone. The entire surface of 
the body presents a more greasy, uninviting appearance than 
that of fowls permitted to live under natural conditions. 

Never purchase fowls which have been sent to the market un- 
drawn. All animals intended for use as food should be dressed 
as quickly as possible after killing. Putrefactive changes begin 
very soon after death, and the liver and other viscera, owing 
to their soft texture and to the quantity of venous blood they 
retain, advance rapidly in decomposition. When a fowl or 
animal is killed, even if the large arteries at the throat are cut, 
a large quantity of blood remains in and around the intestines, 
owing to the fact that only through the capillaries of the liver 
can the blood in the portal system find its way into the large 
vessels which convey it to the heart, and which at death are cut 
off from the general circulation at both ends by a capillary sys- 
tem. This leaves the bloodvessels belonging to the portal 
circulation distended with venous blood, which putrefies very 
quickly, forming a virulent poison. The contents of the intes- 
tines of all creatures are always in a more or less advanced 
state of putrescence, ready to undergo rapid decomposition as 
soon as the preservative action of the intestinal fluids ceases. It 



404 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

will readily be seen, then, that the flesh of an undrawn fowl 
must be to a greater or less degree permeated with the poison- 
ous gases and other products of putrefaction, and is certainly 
quite unfit for food. 

Young fowls have soft, yellow feet, a. smooth, moist skin, 
easily torn with a pin, wings which will spring easily, and a 
breastbone which will yield to pressure. Pinfeathers are an 
indication of a young bird ; older fowls are apt to have sharp 
scales, long hairs, long, thin necks, and flesh with a purplish 
tinge. 

Poultry should be entirely free from disagreeable odors. 
Methods are employed for sweetening fowls which have been 
kept too long in market, but if they need such attention, bury 
them decently rather than cook them for the table. 

Turkeys should have clear, full eyes, and soft, loose spurs. 
The legs of young birds are smooth and black ; those of older 
ones, rough and reddish. 

Geese and ducks, when freshly killed, have supple feet. If 
young, the windpipe and beak can be easily broken by press- 
ure of the thumb and forefinger. Young birds also have soft, 
white fat, tender skin, yellow feet, and legs free from hairs. 

The legs of young pigeons are flesh-colored. When in good 
condition, the breast should be full and plump, and if young, it 
is of a light reddish color. Old pigeons have dark flesh ; squabs 
always have pinfeathers. 

Partridges, when young, have dark bills and yellow legs. 

The breast of all birds should be full and plump. Birds 
which are diseased always fall away on the breast, and the 
bone feels sharp and protrudes. 

To Dress Poultry and Birds. — First strip off the feath- 
ers a few at a time, with a quick, jerking motion toward the 
tail. Remove pinfeathers with a knife. 

Fowls should be picked, if possible, while the body retains 
some warmth, as scalding is apt to spoil the skin and parboil 
the flesh. When all the feathers but the soft down have been 
removed, a little hot water may be poured on, when the down 



MEATS. • 405 

can be easily rubbed off with the palm or'" the hand. Wipe dry 
and singe the hairs off by holding the bird by the legs over the 
flame of a candle, a gas-jet, or a few drops of alcohol poured 
on a plate and lighted. To dress a bird successfully, one 
should have some knowledge of its anatomy, and it is well for 
the amateur first to dress one for some dish in which it is not 
to be cooked whole, when the bird may be opened, and the 
position of its internal organs studied. 

Remove the head, slip the skin back from the neck, and 
cut it off close to the body, take out the windpipe and pull out 
the crop from the end of the neck. Make an incision through 
the skin a little below the leg-joint, bend the leg at this point 
and break off the bone. If care has been taken to cut only 
through the skin, the tendons of the leg may now be easily 
removed with the fingers. 

If the bird is to be cut up, remove the legs and wings at 
the joints. Then beginning near the vent, cut the membrane 
down between the breastbone and tail to the backbone on 
each side, and separate just below the ribs. The internal 
organs can now be seen and easily removed, and the body of 
the bird divided at its joints. 

If desired to keep the fowl whole, after removing the wind- 
pipe and crop, loosen the heart, liver, and lungs by introduc- 
ing the forefinger at the neck ; cut off the oil-sack, make a slit 
horizontally under the tail, insert the first and middle fingers, 
and after separating the membranes which lie close to the 
body, press them along within the body until the heart and 
liver can be felt. The gall bladder lies directly under the left 
lobe of the liver, and if the fingers are kept up, and all adhe- 
sions loosened before an effort is made to draw the organs out, 
there will be little danger of breaking it. Remove everything 
which can be taken out, then hold the fowl under the faucet 
and cleanse thoroughly. 

To Truss a Fowl or Bird. — Twist the tips of the wings 
back under the shoulder and bend the legs as far up toward 
the breast as possible, securing them in that position by put- 



406 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

ting a skewer through one thigh into the body and out through 
the opposite thigh. Then bring the legs down and fasten 
close to the vent. 

To Stuff a Fowl. — Begin at the neck, stuff the breast full, 
draw the neck skin together, double it over on the back and 
fasten with a darning needle threaded with fine twine. Put the 
remainder of the stuffing into the body at the other opening. 

REC/PES. 

Bh'ds Baked m Sweet Potatoes. — Small birds, of which the breast is 
the only suitable portion for eating, may be baked in the following man- 
ner : Cut a sweet potato lengthwise ; make a cavity in each half. Place 
the breast of the bird therein ; fit, and tie together carefully ; bake until 
the potato is soft. Serve in the potato. 

Boiled Fowl. — After cleaning and dividing the fowl, put into boiling 
water, and proceed as directed on page 395. 

Broiled Birds. — Pluck and wipe clean with a damp cloth. Split down 
the middle of the back, and carefully draw the bird. Proceed as directed 
below. 

Broiled Fowl. — A young bird well dressed and singed is best for this 
purpose. Split down the middle of the back, wipe clean with a damp cloth, 
twist the top of the wings from the second joint ; spread out flat, and with 
a rolling pin break the projecting breastbone so that the bird will lie flat 
upon the broiler. When ready to cook, place it skin uppermost and sear 
the under side by pressing it on a hot pan ; then broil the same as beef- 
steak over glowing coals. 

Corn and Chicken. — Clean and divide a chicken in joints. Stew in 
milk or part milk and water until nearly tender ; then add the grains and 
juice from a dozen ears of corn. Cook slowly until the corn is done ; sea- 
son lightly with salt, and serve with dry toast, 

Pig-eons, Quails, and Partridg-es may be half baked, then cooked as 
directed for Smothered Chicken until tender. 

Koast Chicken. — Dress carefully, singe, wash, and wipe dry. Put 
into a pan of the proper size, add a cup of boiling water, and cook very 
slowly for the first half hour, then increase the heat, baste frequently, 
turn occasionally so that no portion will brown too fast. Cook from one 
to two hours according to size and age of the bird. It is usually consid- 
ered essential to stuff a fowl for roasting, but a dressing compounded of 
melted fat and crumbs seasoned with herbs and strong condiments is not 
to be recommended. 



MEATS. 407 

If a dressing is considered necessary, it may be made of a quart of 
crumbs of rather stale whole-wheat bread, moistened with cream, to which 
add a small handful of powdered and sifted sage leaves which have been 
dried in the oven until crisp. Add salt as desired, a well-beaten egg, and 
a little chopped celery. 

Roast Turkey. — Pluck, singe, and dress the turkey; wash thoroughly 
and wipe with a dry cloth. If dressing is to be used, stuif the body full, 
sew up, and truss. Place in a dripping-pan, add a pint of boiling water, 
and put in an oven so moderate that the turkey will not brown for the 
first hour ; afterward the heat may be somewhat increased, but at no time 
should the oven be very hot. After the bird becomes brown, baste it 
occasionally with the water in the pan, dredging lightly with flour. Cook 
until the legs will separate from the body ; three or four hours will be 
necessary for a small turkey. One half hour to the pound is the usual 
rule. When tender, remove the stuffing and serve it hot, placing the 
turkey on a large hot platter to be carved. It may be garnished with 
parsley or celery leaves and served with cranberry sauce. 

Ducks and geese may be prepared and roasted in the same manner, 
but less time will suffice for cooking, about one and one third hours for 
ducks of ordinary size, and about three hours for a young goose. 

A stuffing of mashed potato seasoned with onion, sage, and salt is 
considered preferable for a goose. Equal parts of bread crumbs and 
chopped apples moistened with a little cream are also used for this 
purpose. 

Smothered Cliickeu. — Cut two chickens into joints and put in a closely 
covered kettle with a pint of boiling water. Heat very slowly to boiling, 
skim, keep covered, and simmer until tender and the water evaporated ; 
add salt, turn the pieces, and brown them in their own juices. 

Steamed Chicken. — Prepare the chicken as for roasting, steam until 
nearly tender, dredge with flour and a little salt ; put into a dripping-pan 
and brown in the oven. Other birds and fowls may be prepared in the 
same way. » 

Stewed Chicken. — Divide a chicken into pieces suitable for serving, 
and stew as directed for beef on page 400. Old fowls left whole and 
stewed in this manner for a long time and afterward roasted, are much 
better than when prepared in any other way. If a gravy is desired, 
prepare as for stewed beef. Other poultry may be stewed likewise. 



408 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



FISH. 



Fish is a less stimulating article of food than other meats. 
Edible fish are generally divided into two classes, those of 
white flesh and those more or less red. The red-fleshed fish, 
of which the salmon is a representative, have their fat distrib- 
uted throughout the muscular tissues, while in white fish the 
fat is stored up in the liver ; hence the latter class is much 
easier of digestion, and being less stimulating, is to be re- 
commended as more wholesome. Different kinds of fish have 
different nutritive values. Their flavor and wholesomeness are 
greatly influenced by the nature of their food and the condi- 
tion of the water in which they are caught ; those obtained in 
deep water with strong currents are considered superior to 
those found in shallow water. Fish are sometimes poisonous, 
owing no doubt to the food they eat. 

Like all animal foods, fish are subject to parasites, some of 
which take up their abode in the human body when fish in- 
fected with them are eaten. An eminent scientist connected 
with the Smithsonian Institution, contributed an article to 
Forest and Stream a few years ago, in which he stated that 
in the salmon no less than sixteen kinds of parasitic worms 
have been discovered, and undoubtedly many others remain 
unknown ; four species were tapeworms, and four, round- 
worms. The yellow perch is known to be infested with 
twenty-three species of parasitic worms. 

The pike carries with him at least twenty kinds, while 
many other varieties of fish are equally infested. 

Fish have been highly lauded as a food particularly suited 
to the development of the brain and nervous system. This 
no doubt has arisen from the fact that fish contain a con- 
siderable amount of phosphorus. Phosphorus is also present 
in the human brain, and for this reason it has been supposed 
that fish must be excellent nutriment for the brain ; but the 
truth is, there is no such thing as any special brain or nerve 
food. What is good to build up one part of the body is good 



MEATS. 409 

for the whole of it ; a really good food contains the elements 
to nourish every organ of the body. 

Salted fish, like salted meat, is deprived of most of its nu- 
triment during the curing process, and being rendered much 
more difficult of digestion, possesses very little value as a food. 

Shell=Fish (Oysters, Clams, Scallops, Lobsters, Crabs, 
etc.). — Although considered a luxury by epicures, shell-fish 
are not possessed of a high nutritive value. The whole class 
are scavengers by nature, and according to recent researches 
it appears that they are not altogether safe articles of diet. 
Many cases of severe and extensive sickness have been traced 
to the use of clams and oysters. Investigations made to ascer- 
tain the cause show the poisonous part of the mussel to be the 
liver. Rabbits and other small animals inoculated with the 
poison died in one or two minutes. Not all mussels are thus 
poisonous, but inasmuch as there is an abundance of whole- 
some food, it would certainly seem the part of wisdom to 
discard shellfish altogether. 

How to Select and Prepare Fish. — The flesh of good, 
fresh fish is firm and hard, and will respond at once to pressure 
with the fingers. If the flesh feels soft and flabby, the fish is 
not fresh. The eyes should be full and bright and the gills of 
a clear red color. 

Fish should be cleaned as soon as possible after being 
caught. To do this, lay the fish upon a board, and holding 
it by the tail, scrape off the scales with a dull knife held 
nearly flat, working from the tail toward the head. Scrape 
slowly, and rinse the knife frequently in cold water. Cut off 
the head and fins, make an opening from the gills halfway 
down the lower part of the body, scrape out the entrails and 
every particle of blood. Remove the white part that lies along 
the backbone, then thoroughly rinse and wipe dry. 

Keep in a cool place until ready to cook, but do not place 
directly on ice, as that will have a tendency to soften the flesh. 
Fresh fish should never be allowed to soak in water. If salt 
fish is to be used, it should be freshened by placing it skin-side 



410 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

up in cold water, and soaking for several hours, changing the 
water frequently. 

Frozen fish should be placed in cold water to thaw, and 
when thawed, should be cooked immediately. 

Fish is cooked by nearly all methods, but retains more 
nourishment when broiled or baked. It should be thoroughly 
cooked, being both indigestible and unpalatable when under- 
done. 

Boiled fish is usually dependent for flavor upon some kind 
of rich sauce so incompatible with healthy digestion that we 
do not recommend this method. 

REC/PES. 

Baked Fish. — Select a perfectly fresh, properly dressed fish. Rinse 
thoroughly and wipe dry. Fold it together and place in a dripping pan 
with a cup of boiling water. Cook slowly and steadily until tender. A 
fish weighing three or four pounds will require at least two hours. If 
desired, the fish may be lightly dredged with flour, toward the last, as it 
begins to brown. 

Broiled Fish. — Thoroughly clean the fish, and if small, split down the 
back. Fish of larger size should be cut into inch slices. Use a double 
wire broiler well oiled with a bit of suet. Lay the fish, with ils thickest 
part next the center of the broiler, skin uppermost, and broil over a bed 
of clear coals until the flesh-side is of an even brown. The time required 
will vary, according to the size of the fish, from five to twenty minutes ; 
then turn and brown on the other side. If the fish be very thick, when 
both sides are browned, put the broiler in the oven over a dripping pan 
and cook until done. 

MEAT SOUP, 

Soups made from meat require first the preparation of a 
special material called stock, a liquid foundation upon which to 
begin the soup. 

Beef, veal, mutton, and poultry are all made into stock in 
the same manner, so that general rules for its preparation will 
be sufficient for all meat soups. 

The principal constituents of meat and bones, the material 
from which stock is compounded, are fiber, albuminous ele- 



MEATS. 411 

ments, gelatinous substances, and flavoring matters. The 
albuminous elements are found only in the flesh. The gel- 
atinous substance found in the bones, skin, and tendons, is 
almost devoid of nutriment. In selecting material for stock, 
therefore, it is well to remember that the larger the proportion 
of lean meat used, the more nutritious will be the soup. 

But little else than gelatine is obtained from the bones, and 
although serviceable in giving consistency, a soup made prin- 
cipally from bones is not valuable as a food. The amount of 
bone used for soup should never exceed the flesh material in 
weight. The bones, trimmings, and remnants of steaks, chops, 
and roasts may be advantageously utilized for soups. Bits of 
roast meat and roast gravies are especially serviceable mate- 
rial, since they are rich in the flavoring elements of meat. It 
should be remembered, however, that these flavoring matters 
are chiefly excrementitious or waste substances, derived from 
the venous blood of the animal. 

The greatest care must be observed to keep the scraps 
perfectly sweet and fresh until needed, as stale meat is exceed- 
ingly unwholesome. If the scraps are mostly cooked meats 
and bones, a small portion of raw, lean meat should be used 
with them ; it need not be of the choicest quality ; tough, 
coarse meat, when fresh and good, can be advantageously used 
for soup stock. 

If fresh material is to be procured, select for beef soups a 
piece from the shin or lower round ; the same choice of pieces 
may be made of veal ; of mutton, pieces from the forequarter 
and neck are best. 

In preparing meat for soup, if it is soiled, scrub the outside 
thoroughly with a clean cloth wet in cold water, or cut away 
the soiled portion. Break the bones into as small pieces as 
convenient ; cut the meat into inch dice, remove the marrow 
from the bones, and put it aside. If added to the stock, it 
will make it greasy. 

Having selected proper material and prepared it for use, 
the next step is to extract the juices. To do this put it into 
cold water, bring very gradually to the boiling point, — an hour 



412 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

is not too long for this, — then cook slowly but continuously. 
In the observation of these simple measures lies the secret of 
success in stock-making. 

The albuminous elements of the meat, which are similar in 
character to the white of an egg, are readily dissolved in cold 
or tepid water, but boiling water coagulates them. If the meat 
is put into boiling water, the albumen coagulates, or hardens, 
forming a sort of crust on the outside of the meat, which pre- 
vents the inner juices from escaping ; on the contrary, if the 
meat is put to cook in cold water, and is gradually raised to 
the boiling point, the soaking and simmering will easily extract 
and dissolve the juices. 

Salt likewise hinders the extraction of the meat juices, and 
should not be added to stock during its preparation. 

The best utensil for use in the preparation of stock is a 
soup digester. This is a porcelain-lined kettle, resting on 
standards, with a cover fitting closely into a groove, so that 
no steam can escape except through a valve in the top of the 
cover. In this the meat can be placed and allowed to cook 
for hours without burning. An ordinary granite-ware kettle 
with tightly fitting cover set on a stove ring or brick, answers 
quite well. It should, however, be kept entirely for this pur- 
pose. A double boiler is also suitable. 

The correct proportion of water to be used is about one 
quart to each pound of meat and bones, though this will vary 
somewhat with the material and the length of time required 
for cooking. The scum which is thrown to the surface of the 
water during the cooking process is composed of blood and 
other impurities, and should be removed as rapidly as it rises. 
If allowed to remain after the water reaches the boiling point, 
it will become incorporated into the stock and injure it in 
flavor and w^holesomeness. 

If the meat and bones are well cut and broken, the juices 
ought to be all extracted, with proper cooking, in three or four 
hours. Longer cooking will render the stock thicker and more 
gelatinous but not more nutritious, and too long cooking will 
detract from its flavor. As soon as the meat will fall from 



MEATS. 



413 



the bones, the stock should be removed from the pot and 
strained at once. 

A good way to strain stock is to place a colander over an 
earthen crock or jar (the colander should fit inside the jar), 
with a cloth strainer within the colander. Then dip the con- 
tents of the stock kettle into the colander, and leave it there 
to drain for fifteen or twenty minutes. Do not squeeze the 
cloth, and when well drained, throw the scraps away. 

French cooks, with their propensity for economy, some- 
times select a good quality of beef, cook it so as to retain a 
portion of the juices in the meat, and make it serve both for 
preparing the soup and for boiled 
beef on the bill of fare. The meat is 
not cut up, but is heated quickly and 
removed as soon as tender, so that 
only part of the juices are extracted. 

Set the stock where it will become 
cold. The more rapidly it cools, the 
more delicate will be its flavor, and 
the better it will keep. The fat will 
rise to the surface, and can be easily 
removed when desired. If the quan- 
tity of fat in the material used was considerable, a solid cake 
will cover the top. This fat, by excluding the air, helps keep 
the stock sweet, and should not be removed until the stock is 
needed. 

If only a portion is to be used at one time, the remainder 
with the fat should be reheated and cooled, that a new crust 
may be formed. In winter, stock may be kept several days, if 
care is thus taken to reheat it. In summer, unless kept in a 
very cold place, it will spoil in a few hours. 

Soup should never be greasy, and hence, before using the 
stock, every particle of the fat should be removed. To accom- 
plish this, loosen the cake of fat from the dish with a knife, and 
if solid, it will sometimes come off whole ; if soft, remove all 
that is possible without cutting into the stock, and afterwards 
wipe the top of the jellied stock with a cloth wrung out of 




Arrangement for Straining Stock. 



414 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

very hot water, which will readily absorb any lingering portion 
of fat. If the stock is not jellied, skim off all the fat possible, 
and then turn the stock through a napkin wrung out of ice 
water. This will harden the grease, which will adhere to the 
napkin. It is always better to prepare stock long enough 
before it is needed to allow it to become perfectly cold ; if, 
however, it is necessary to use the stock very soon after it is 
prepared, the fat may be quickly hardened by turning the 
stock into a dripping pan or some other shallow dish, and plac- 
ing it on ice in a cool place ; if there is no time for this, strain 
several times through sl napkin wrung out of ice-cold water, 
removing the particles of fat each time and wringing the cloth 
anew before straining again. A little cold water poured into 
hot stock will also cause the grease to rise so that it can be 
easily skimmed off; but this method weakens the stock. 

Stock may be prepared from one kind of meat only, or from 
two or more different kinds mixed together. Chicken stock is 
generally conceded to be better if a small portion of beef is 
combined with the fowl. Beef and veal are largely used to- 
gether ; but mutton on account of its strong flavor is better 
used alone. 

Stock, when prepared from a single kind of meat, is termed 
simple stock or broth. When prepared from two or more 
kinds of flesh cooked together, or when stock prepared sepa- 
rately from different kinds of meat are mixed together, the re- 
sult is termed compound stock or double broth. With either 
of these stocks as a foundation, an innumerable variety of soups 
may be prepared, either by serving them as plain broth or by 
the addition of some of the various grains and vegetables, the 
distinctive name of each soup being given it according to its 
principal solid ingredient. 

To Clarify Soup Stock. — Having removed all the fat from 
the stock, add to it before reheating, the shell of an egg, and 
the whole of one egg well beaten, with a little cold water, for 
every three pints of soup. Place the soup over the fire and 
stir it constantly to keep the egg from setting until it is hot. 
Simmer for fifteen minutes, removing the scum as it rises, and 



MEATS. 415 

strain through a flannel cloth or napkin laid in a colander. It 
is also a good plan to place a fine wire strainer on the napkin 
to catch the shells and scum. Do not squeeze the cloth or 
stir the liquid with a spoon to hasten the straining process. If 
the cloth is clogged so that the stock does not run through 
well, carefully change it in the colander so that the liquid will 
run down upon a clean portion. When strained, it may be 
reheated, seasoned, and served as clear soup. 

RECIPES. 

Asparag'US Soup. — This soup is prepared in every way like the one on 
page 276, except that white stock made from veal is used instead of milk. 
Green pea soup, celery soup, green corn soup, and green bean soup may 
be prepared according to tlie recipes already given for these soups, by 
substituting for milk the same quantity of the stock of veal or chicken. 

Barley, Rice, Sagro, or Tapioca Soup. — Any kind of stock may be 
used in making these soups, though chicken and mutton stock are gener- 
ally considered preferable. Prepare the grains, the sago, or the tapioca, 
by steaming or boiHng till well cooked, and add to the stock, which should 
be at boiling temperature. Season and serve. 

Caramel for Coloring' Soup Brown. — Melt a half pint of sugar and one 
tablespoonful of water in a saucepan over the fire ; stir constantly until it 
is of a dark brown color ; then add a half pint of boiling water, simmer ten 
minutes, strain, and put into an air-tight can or bottle. When needed, 
mix such a quantity with the soup as will give the desired degree of color. 

Juilienne Soup. — Take an equal proportion of carrot, parsnip, turnip, 
celery, and string beans, cut into thin pieces of inch lengths, sufiftcient to 
make one pint. Simmer the vegetables gently in a small quantity of water 
until tender, but not long enough to destroy their shape. Heat a quart of 
clear stock to boiling, add the vegetables, salt to taste, and serve. 

Other vegetables, as peas, asparagus, etc., may be used in their sea- 
son. Sometimes the vegetables are cut into dice or fancy shapes with a 
vegetable cutter. It makes little difference about the shape, so that the 
pieces are small and uniform in size. Such vegetables as potatoes, carrots, 
or turnips, when used for soups, are easiest cut, after paring in the usual 
manner, by taking the vegetable in the left hand, holding it on the table or 
board between thumb and finger, and with the right hand cutting down- 
ward in even slices not over one third of an inch wide, to within a quarter 
of an inch of the bottom. Turn the vegetable and repeat the process, 
cutting across the first slices. Again lay the vegetable on its side, and 



4l6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

make a third series of cuts, which will divide it into cubes. If several 
kinds of vegetables are used, those which require a longer time for cooking 
should be cut into smaller pieces. 

Tomato Soup. — Into two quarts of boiling beef stock stir a teaspoon- 
ful of cornstarch well braided with a little cold water, and a pint of strained, 
stewed tomatoes. Boil a few minutes, and serve. A teaspoonful of sugar 
may also be added, if desired. 

White Soup. — White soups are made from veal or chicken stock, 
seasoned with cream, flavored with onion or celery, and thickened with 
cornstarch or flour. 

Termicelli or Macaroni Soups. — Drop into boiling water and cook the 
macaroni about one hour, the vermicelli ten minutes. Drain well, dash 
cold water through them to separate the pieces, which are apt to stick 
together, and add to boiling stock ( beef and veal are preferable ) in the 
proportion of a pint of cooked macaroni or vermicelli to a quart of soup. 
Salt to taste and serve. 

Puree with Chicken. — Take a quart of chicken stock from which the 
fat has been removed. Add a stalk or two of celery cut into finger- 
lengths, and a slice of onion, and put to boil. Beat together the mashed 
yolk of two hard boiled eggs, and a half cup of sweet cream. Chop the 
white meat of the chicken until fine as meal and beat with the egg mix- 
ture. Add slowly a cup and a half of hot milk. Remove the celery and 
onion from the hot stock, and stir all together. Boil up, salt to taste, and 
serve. If too thick, a little more stock or milk can be added. 

Tapioca Cream Soup. — Soak two tablespoonfuls of tapioca over night. 
Heat a quart of stock prepared from the white meat of chicken, to boiling, 
in a saucepan. Then stir the tapioca in gradually. Move the saucepan 
to the side of the range where it will simmer till the tapioca is transpar- 
ent. Have ready in a large dish a mixture prepared by beating together 
very thoroughly the yolks of three eggs and four tablespoonfuls of sweet 
cream. When the tapioca is clear, remove the stock from the range and 
pour it very gradually onto the egg mixture, stirring briskly all the time, 
so that the egg will not curdle. Season with salt if desired. The soup 
may be returned to the stove and warmed before serving if necessary, but 
it must not be boiled or allowed to stand a long time. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Animal food is one of the greatest means by which the pure sentiment of the 
race is depressed. — Alcott. 

An English medical author says, "It is no doubt true that the constant use of 
animal food disqualifies the mind for literary application. We can scarcely imagine 
a philosopher living on horse flesh like a Tartar, or on buffalo meat like an Indian , 
and it is a fact that these tribes appear incapable of civilization until they acquire 
the habit of using a less stimulating diet, and begin to cultivate the fruits of the 
earth for their own use. The difference, in the success of Christian missions, between 
such people and those whose chief sustenance is farinaceous food, is very striking 
and worthy of especial notice. In the East, and in Polynesia, literature and Chris- 
tian doctrines are seized upon with avidity. But in vain were the most earnest labors 
of the best men to introduce reading and writing among the American Indians until 
they had first been taught to grow corn and to eat bread." 

An American gentleman traveling in the East met a Brahmin priest, who refused 
to shake hands with him for fear of pollution. The reason he assigned was that 
Americans eat hogs. Said the priest, "Why, I have heard that in America they put 
hogs' flesh in barrels and eat it after it has been dead six months! Horrible!" 

Pork is by no means a favorite food in Scotland. King James is said to have 
abhorred pork almost as much as he did tobacco. He said, "If I were to give a 
banquet to the devil, I would provide a loin of pork and a poll of ling, with a pipe 
of tobacco for digestion!" — Scott. 

The Hindu would as soon think of becoming a cannibal as of eating swine's 
flesh. It is stated that the Indian mutiny so frightful in its results originated in a 
fear among the Sepoys that they would be forced to eat pork. h. lady in India 
had an amiising experience which illustrates the Hindu sentiment on the subject of 
pig. Arriving late at a grand dinner, she and her husband saw the first course being 
carried in as they went down the hall. A row of khitmutgars was drawn up, waiting 
to follow the dish into the dining-room, and serve their respective employers ; as a 
dish of ham was carried by, each man gravely and deliberately spat upon it ! Need- 
less to say, Mrs. B. and her lord waited for the second course. 

Both the ancient Syrians and Egyptians abstained from flesh-eating out of dread 
and abhorrence, and when the latter would represent any thing as odious or disagree- 
able by hieroglyphics, they painted a fish. 

Yes, Agassiz does recommend authors to eat fish because the phosphorus in it 
makes brains. So far you are correct. But I cannot help you to a decision about 
the amount you need to eat — at least with certainty. If the specimen composition 
you send is about your fair usual average, I should judge that perhaps a couple of 
whales would be all you would want for the present ; not the largest kind, but simply 
good, middling-sized whales ! — Mark Twain'' s Letter to a Yoting Author. 



27 f4i; 





^pHERE is no branch of the culinary art which requires 
more skill than that of preparing- food for the sick and 
f feeble. The purpose of food at all times is to supply 
"^"'^ material for repairing the waste which is constantly 
going on in the vital economy ; and hence it ought always to 
be chosen Avith reference to its nutritive value. But during ill- 
ness and convalescence, when the waste is often much greater 
and the vital powers less active, it is of the utmost importance 
that the food should be of such a character as will supply the 
proper nutrition. Nor is this all ; an article of food may contain 
all the elements of nutrition in such proportions as to render it 
a wholesome food for those in health, and not be a proper food 
for the sick, for the reason that its conversion into blood and 
tissue lays too great a tax upon the digestive organs. Food 
for the sick should be palatable, nutritious, and easily as- 
similated. To discriminate as to what food -will supply these 
requisites, one must possess some knowledge of dietetics and 
physiolog)-, as well as of the nature of the illness with which 
the patient is suffering ; and such a knowledge ought to be 
[41.^ J 



FOOD FOR THE SICK. 419 

part of the education of every woman, no matter to what class 
of society she belongs. 

There are no special dishes suitable alike for all cases. 
Hot buttered toast, tea, rich jellies, and other dainties so com- 
monly served to the sick, are usually the very worst articles 
of diet of which they could partake. As a general rule, elabor- 
ate dishes are not suitable. 

Well-cooked gruel, a nicely broiled steak, a glass of milk, or 
some refreshing drink often serve far better than foods which 
combine a greater variety of ingredients, and require more ex- 
tensive preparation. The simplest foods are always the best, 
because the most readily assimilated. 

Scrupulous neatness and care in all the minute particulars 
of the cooking and serving of food for invalids, will add much 
to its palatableness. The clean napkin on the tray, the bright 
silver, and dainty china plate, with perhaps a sprig of leaves 
and flowers beside it, thinly sliced bread, toast or cracker, and 
the light cup partly filled v/ith hot gruel, are far more appetiz- 
ing to the invalid than coarse ware, thickly cut bread, and an 
overflowing cup of gruel, though the cooking may be just as 
perfect. Anything that suggests excess or weight fatigues the 
sick. The appearance of milk served in a bowl, water in a 
mug, beef-tea in a saucer, though seemingly a trivial thing, 
is often sufficient to remove all desire for food. 

So far as practicable, the wants of the patient should be 
anticipated, and the meal served, a surprise. The capricious 
appetite of an invalid may sometimes be coaxed by arranging 
his simple food upon a tray so planned that in the napery and 
service-ware used, some one particular color predominates, and 
if this color be selected to accord or harmonize as far as possi- 
ble with the food allowed, the tout ensemble presents a pleasing 
fancy, which will tempt the eye, and through its influence, the 
appetite of the patient. For example : an invalid whose dietary 
must consist of fruit and grains, might be served to a "purple" 
dinner, with bill of fare including a fresh, cool bunch of purple 
grapes, a glass of unfermented grape juice, a saucer of black- 
berry mush, a plate of nicely toasted wafers, Graham puffs or 



420 SCIENCE I\ THE KITCHEN. 

zwieback, with stewed prunes or a slice of prune toast, served 
on dishes decorated with purple. Tie the napkin with a bow 
of purple ribbon, and place a bunch of purple pansies just 
within its folds. The monotonous regimen of a poor dyspeptic 
might be rendered more enjoyable by a " yellow " dinner, in 
which poached eggs, beaten biscuit, wheat gluten, eggnog, 
with, perhaps, stewed peaches or an orange, are served on gilt- 
band china with a spray of goldenrod, a bunch of marigolds, or 
a water-lily to give an additional charm. 

Foods which are ordered to be served hot, should be hot, 
not merely warm, when they reach the patient. ' To facilitate 
this, let the dish in which the food is to be served, stand in hot 
water for a few moments ; take out, wipe dry, turn in the hot 
food, place on the tray, and serve. An oil stove, alcohol lamp, 
or a pocket stove is very convenient for warming gruels, 
broths, and other similar foods, as either can be made ready for 
use in a moment, and will heat the small quantity of food neces- 
sary for an invalid in one fourth the time in which it could be 
accomplished over the range, if necessary to rekindle the fire. 

In the preparation of food for the sick, a scrupulously 
clean dish for cooking is of the first importance. It is a good 
plan in every household to reserve one or two cooking uten- 
sils for this purpose, and not be obliged to depend upon those 
in daily use. Utensils used for the cooking of fruits, vege- 
tables, meat, etc., unless cleaned with the utmost care, will 
sometimes impart a sufficiently unpleasant flavor to the food 
to render it wholly unpalatable to an invalid whose senses are 
preternaturally acute. 

ORUELS. 

These simple foods, the base of which is usually some one of 
the grains, play an important part in the dietary for the sick, 
if properly prepared ; but the sloppy messes sometimes termed 
gruel, the chief merit of which appears to be that they " are 
prepared in ten minutes," are scarcely better than nothing at all. 
Like other dishes prepared from the grains, gruel needs a long, 
continuous cooking. When done, it should be the very essence 



FOOD FOR TMK vSR'K. 



4^ 




Gruel Strainer. 



of the grain, possessing all its nutritive qualities, but in such 
form as io be readily assimilated. For the making of gruels, 

as for the cooking of 
grains for any other 
l)urpose, the double 
boiler is the best 
utensil. 

If it is desirable to 
strain the gruel before 
serving, have a fine 
wire strainer of a size to stand conveniently within a large 
bowl or basin, turn the gruel into this, and rub it through 
with a wooden or silver spoon, using a second spoon, if neces- 
sary, to remove that which hangs beneath the sieve. On 
no account use the first spoon for the latter operation, as by 
so doing one is apt to get some of the hulls into the gruel aiid 
destroy its smoothness. When as much of the gruel as possi- 
ble has been rubbed through the sieve, pour the strained liquid 
into a clean dish, reheat 
to boiling, and season as 
desired before serving. 
An extension strainer 
which can be fitted over 
any sized dish is also 
serviceable for straining 
gruels. 

Gruels, like all other foods, should be retained in the mouth 
for proper insalivation, and it is well to eat them with wafers 
or some hard food, \\'hen solid food is allowed. 




Extension Strainer. 



RECIPES. 

Arrowroot Gruel. — Rub a dessertspoonful oi pure arrowroot to a thin 
paste in two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and stir it into a half pint of 
boiling water, or, if preferred, a cup and a third of boiling milk, and stir 
rapidly until thickened and clear. If desired, a little lemon peel for fla- 
voring may be infused in the water or milk, before adding the arrowroot. 
Sweeten, if allowed, and serve. 



422 . SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Barley (iruel. — Wash three heaping tablespooiifuls of pearl barley, 
drop it into a pint of boiling water, and parboil five minutes. Pour this 
water off and add a quart of fresh boiling water. Let it simmer gently 
for three hours. Strain, season, and serve. A small piece of lemon rind 
added to the gruel a half hour before it is done, gives it a very agreeable 
flavor. Equal quantities of milk and barley gruel make a very nourishing 
drink ; the milk, however, should not be added to the gruel until needed, 
as in a warm atmosphere it undergoes quite rapid change, and is likely to 
ferment. A little lemon juice, with sugar to sweeten to taste, is sometimes 
preferred as seasoning for barley gruel. 

Egg" Cfriiel. — Heat a cup of milk to boiling, and stir into it one well- 
beaten egg mixed with one fourth cup of cold milk. Stir constantly for a 
few minutes till thickened, but do not allow it to boil again. Season with 
a little salt, or if preferred and allowed, a little loaf sugar. 

Egg GiMiel ^0. 2. — Boil the yolks of three eggs until dry and meal}', 
mash perfectly smooth, then add a cup of boiling milk. Season with salt, 
and serve. 

Farina (Tniel. — Moisten two tablespoonfuls of farina with a very little 
cold milk, and stir it into a cupful of boiling water. Boil until it thickens, 
add a cupful of new milk, turn into a double boiler, and cook again for 
twenty or thirt}' minutes. Strain if necessary, season with salt or sugar, 
and serve. 

Flonr Gfruel. — Rub one heaping tablespoonful of whole-wheat flour to 
a thin paste with three tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and stir it into a pint 
of boiling milk. Cook for ten or twelve minutes. Season with salt, strain 
if necessary, and while hot, stir in the beaten white of one egg. The egg 
may be omitted if preferred ; or the yolk of the egg and a little sugar may 
be used instead, if the patient's condition will allow it. 

Gluten Grnel. — Stir two and one half tablespoonfuls of the wheat glu- 
ten prepared^by the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., into a pint 
of boiling milk ; boil until thickened, when it is ready to serve. 

Grlnten Gfruel IVo. 2. — Into a pint of boiling water stir three heaping 
tablespoonfuls of the prepared gluten. Boil until thickened, and add a 
half cup of thin cream. 

Gluten Cream.— Heat a pint of thin cream to boiling, and stir into it 
three tablespoonfuls of wheat gluten. When thickened, it is ready to serve. 

Gluten Meal Gruel.— Into a cup and a half of boiling water stir four 
tablespoonfuls of gluten meal (prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co.), 
let it boil for a moment, add six tablespoonfuls of rather thin, sweet cream, 
and serve. 

Graham Gruel. — Heat three cups of water in the inner dish of a 
double boiler, and when vigorously boiling stir into it carefully, a little at a 



KOOn IX) R THE SICK. 423 

time, so as not to check the boihnj;, one scant cup of Graham flour which 
has been rubbed perfectl}' smooth in a cup of warm, not hot, water. Stir 
until thickened, then place in the outer boiler and cook for an hour or 
longer. When done, strain if necessary, season with salt if desired, and a 
half cup of sweet cream. 

Grraham Grits Gruel. — Cook three heaping tablespoonfuls of Graham 
grits in^ a quart of boiling water, as directed in the chapter on Grains, for 
three hours. Turn through a soup strainer to remove any lumps, season 
with half a cup of cream, and salt if desired. Well cooked Graham grits 
may be made into gruel by thinning with water or milk, straining and 
seasoning as above. 

Gfniel of Prepared Flour. — Knead a pint of flour with water into a ball, 
and tie firmly in a linen cloth ; put it into a granite-ware basin or kettle, 
cover with boiling water, and boil slowly, replenishing with boiling water 
as needed, for twelve hours. Put it before the fire to dry. Afterward 
remove the cloth, and also a thick skin which will have formed over the 
ball. Dry the interior again. When needed for use, rub a tablespoonful 
of the prepared flour smooth with three spoonfuls of cold milk, and stir 
it into a pint of boiling milk. Cook from three to five minutes. Season 
with salt if desired. 

Indian Meal Gruel. — Make a thin paste of one teaspoonful of flour, 
two tablespoonfuls of best cornmeal, and a little water. Stir this into a 
quart of boiling water, or milk and water in equal proportions, as pre- 
ferred. Boil imtil the meal has set, stirring constantly ; then turn into 
a double boiler and cook for an hour and a half or two hours. Season 
with salt, and strain. If too thick, thin with milk or cream. 

Lemon Oatmeal Gruel. — The United States Dispensary recommends 
the following method of preparing oatmeal gruel for fever patients : 
"Rub one heaping tablespoonful of fine oatmeal smooth in a little cold 
water ; stir this into three pints of boiling water. Cook until the quan- 
tity is reduced to two pints ; then strain, and let it cool and settle. 
When it is quite cold, pour the clear gruel from the sediment, add the 
juice of a lemon, and sugar to sweeten slightly. If desirable to serve it 
warm, reheat before adding the lemon juice." Freshly cooked oatmeal 
may be thinned with boiling water, strained and seasoned in the same 
manner. 

Milk Oatmeal Grnel. — Take a pint of milk and one of water, and heat 
to boiling. Stir in three heaping tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, and cook in a 
double boiler for two or three hours. 

Milk Porridge. — Take one pint of milk and the same quantity of 
water, and heat to boiling. Stir in two heaping tablespoonfuls of corn- 
meal or Graham grits, boil, stirring continuously, until the meal has set, 



424 SCIKNCE TN THE KITCHF.N. 

then turn into a double boiler and cook for two hours or longer. Season 
with salt, and a tablespoonfnl of sweet cream if allowed. 

Oatmeal Grnel. — Into one quart of boiling water stir two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of fine oatmeal ; let it boil until it thickens, stirring all 
the time ; then turn into a double boiler and cook for three and a half 
or four hours. Strain before serving. A little cream may also be added, 
imless contra-indicated by the patient's condition. 

Oatmeal Gruel No. 2. — Pound one half cup of coarse oatmeal until it 
is mealy. The easiest way to do this is to tie the oatmeal in a coarse 
cloth and pound it with a wooden mallet. Put it in a pint bowl, and fill 
the bowl with cold water. Stir briskly for a few moments until the water 
is white, then allow the meal to settle. Pour off the water, being careful 
to get none of the sediment. Fill the bowl a second time with cold water, 
stir thoroughly, let settle, and pour off the water as before. Do this the 
third time. Boil the liquid one half hour, strain, and serve hot. If very 
thick, a little cream or milk may be added. 

Oatmeal Grwel No. 3. — Add to one cup of well-cooked oatmeal while 
hot two cups of hot milk, or one cup of hot milk and one of hot water. 
Beat all thoroughly together, add a little salt if desired, strain, and serve. 

Peptonized Grluten Crrnel. — Prepare the gruel as directed for Gluten 
Gruel No. i. Strain if needed, cool to lukewarm, and turn it into a 
pitcher, which place in a dish containing hot water even in depth with the 
gruel in the pitcher ; add the peptonizing fluid or powder, stir well, and let 
it stand in the hot water bath for ten minutes. The temperature must 
not be allowed to rise over 130°. Put into a clean dish and serve at once, 
or place on ice till needed. Other well-cooked gruels may be peptonized 
in the same way. 

Raisin Gruel. — Stone and quarter two dozen raisins and boil them 
twenty minutes in a small quantity of water. When the water has nearly 
boiled away, add two cups of new milk. When the milk is boiling, add 
one heaping tablespoonfnl of Graham or whole-wheat flour which has been 
rubbed to a thin paste with a little cold milk. Boil until thickened, stir- 
ring all the time ; then turn into a double boiler and cook for twenty min- 
utes or half an hour. Season with salt and serve. 

Rice Water. — Wash half a cup of rice very thoroughly in several 
waters. Put it into a saucepan with three cups of cold water and boil 
for half an hour. Strain off the rice water, season with salt if desired, and 
serve. 



FOOD FOR THE SICK. 425 



PREPARATIONS OF MILK. 

Milk Diet. — An almost exclusive milk diet is sometimes a 
great advantage in cases of sickness. It is usually necessary to 
begin the use of the milk in moderate quantities, gradually 
withdrawing the more solid food and increasing the quantity 
of milk. In the course of a week, all other food should be 
withdrawn, and the quantity of milk increased to three or four 
quarts a day. Milk is easily digested, and hence may be taken 
at more frequent intervals than other food. 

R EC /PES. 

Albuminized Milk. — Shake together in a well-corked bottle or glass 
fruit can, a pint of fresh milk and the well-beaten whites of two eggs, 
until thoroughly mixed. Serve at once. 

Hot Milk. — Hot milk is an excellent food for many classes of in- 
valids. The milk should be fresh, and should be heated in a double 
boiler until the top is wrinkled over the entire surface. 

Jnnket, or Milk Curd. — Heat a cup of fresh milk to 85°, add one 
teaspoonful of the essence of pepsin, and stir just enough to mix thor- 
oughly. Let it stand until firmly curded, and serve. 

Koumiss. — Dissolve one fourth of a two-cent cake of compressed 
yeast, and two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, in three tablespoonfuls of 
lukewarm water. Pour this into a quart bottle and add sufficient fresh, 
sweet milk to nearly fill. Shake well, and place in a room of the tem- 
perature of 70° to 80° F., and allow it to ferment about six hours. Cork 
tightly and tie the cork in. Put in a cool place, not above 60°, and let it 
remain a week, when it will be ready for use. In making koumiss be 
sure that the milk is pure, the bottle sound, and the yeast fresh. Open 
the bottle with a champagne tap. If there is any curd or thickening 
resembling cheese, the fermentation has been prolonged beyond the 
proper point, and the koumiss should not be used. 

Milk ami Lime Water. — In cases where milk forms large curds, or 
sours in the stomach, lime water prepared in the following manner may be 
added to the milk before using : — 

Into a gallon jar of water, put a piece of lime the size of one's fist. 
Cover the jar and let the lime settle over night. In the morning, draw 
the water off the top with a syphon, being careful not to move the jar so 
as to mix again the particles of lime with the water. 



426 SCIEN'CE IN THE KITCHEN. 

Two tablespoonfuls of th(> linio water is usually sufficient for a pint 
of milk. 

Peptonized Milk for Infants. — One gill of cows' milk, fresh and un- 
skimmed ; one gill of pure water ; two tablespoonfuls of rich, sweet 
cream ; two hundred grains of milk sugar ; one and one fourth grains 
of extractiini pancreafis ; four grains of sodium bicarbonate. Put the 
above in a clean nursing bottle, and place the bottle in water so warm 
that the whole hand cannot be held in it longer than one minute without 
pain. Keep the milk at this temperature for exactly twenty minutes. 
Prepare fresh just before using. 

BEEF=TEA, BROTHS, ETC. 

Beef tea and meat broths are by no means so useful as foods 
for the sick as is generally supposed. The late Dr. Austin 
Flint used to say of these foods, that "the valuation by most 
persons outside of the medical profession, and by many within 
it, of beef tea or its analogues, the various solutions, most of 
the extracts, and the expressed juice of meat, is a delusion and 
a snare which has led to the loss of many lives by starvation. 

"The quantity of nutriti\'e material in these preparations is 
insignificant or nil, and it is vastly important that they should 
be reckoned as of little or no value, except as indirectly con- 
ducive to nutrition by acting as stimulants for the secretion of 
the digestive fluids, or as vehicles for the introduction of the 
nutritive substances. Furthermore, it is to be considered that 
water and pressure not only fail to extract the alimentary prin- 
ciples of meat, but that the excrementitious principles, or the 
products of destructive assimilation, are thereby extracted." 

Vegetable broths prepared from grains and legumes possess 
a much higher nutritive value, while they lack the objection- 
able features of meat broths. 

RECIPES. 

Beef Extract, — Take a pound of lean beef, cut it up into small dice, 
and put it into a glass fruit jar. Screw on the cover tightly, put the jar 
into a vessel filled with cold water to a depth sufficient to come to the 
top of contents of the jar, and set over a slow fire. As soon as the water 
boils, set where it will keep just boiling, but no more ; and cook for an 



FOOD FOR THE SKK. 42/ 

hour or an hour and a quarter. Then strain, season, and serve. If pre- 
ferred, a double boiler may be used for the preparation of the extract. 

Bot'f Juice. — Cut a thick slice of round steak, trim off every particle 
of fat, and broil it over a clear fire just long enough to heat it throughout. 
Next gash it in many places with a sharp knife, and with the aid of a beef- 
juice press or lemon squee;ier, press out all the juice into a bowl set in hot 
water, salt but very slightly, remove all globules of fat, and serve. This 
may also be frozen and given the patient in small lumps, if so ordered. 

Beef Tea. — Take a pound of fresh, lean, juicy beef of good flavor, — 
the top of the round and the back and middle of the rump are the best 
portions for the purpose, — from which all fat, bones, and sinews have 
been carefully removed ; cut into pieces a cjuarter of an inch square, or 
grind in a sausage-cutter. Add a quart of cold water, and put into a 
clean double boiler. Place over the fire, and heat very slowly, carefully 
i"emoving all scum as it rises. Allow it to cook gently for two or three 
hours,- or until the water has been reduced one half. Strain, and put away 
to cool. Before using, remove all fat from the surface, and season. In 
reheating, a good way is to place a quantity in a cup, and set the cup into 
hot water until the tea is sufficiently hot. This prevents waste, and if the 
patient is not ready for the tea, it can be easily kept hot. 

Beef Tea aiul Egg'S. — Beat the yolk of an egg thoroughly in a tea- 
cujD and fill the cup with boiling beef tea, stirring all the while. Season 
with a little salt if desired. 

Beef Broth and Oatmeal. — Rub two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal smooth 
in an equal quantity of cold water, and stir into a quart of boiling beef 
broth. Cook in a double boiler for two hours, strain, and season with 
salt and a little cream if allowed. Or, thin well-cooked oatmeal mush with 
beef-tea ; strain, reheat, season, and serve. 

Bottled Beef Tea. — Cut two pounds oi round steak into small dice, 
rejecting all skin and fat. Put it into a glass fruit jar with one cup of 
cold water. Cover the can sufficiently tight to prevent any water from 
boiling in, and place it on a wisp of straw nr a muifti ring in a kettle of 
cold water. Heat very gradually, and keep it just below the boiling point 
for two or more houi's ; or, place the can in a deep dish of hot water, and 
cook in a moderate oven for three hours. Allow the meat to cook thus 
four or five hours, or until it appears white, by which time it will have 
discharged all its juice. Turn the liquor off, strain through a piece of 
muslin or cheese cloth laid in a colander, and cool ; then if any fat has 
been left, it will harden on the top, and can be removed. When needed 
for use, reheat, season, and serve. 

Chicken Broth. — Take a well dressed, plump spring chicken, cut it 
into half-inch pieces, cracking well all the bones; add cold water, — a 



428 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

quart to the pound of meat and bones, — -and cook the same as beef-tea. 
Allow the broth to cool before using, and carefully skim off all particles 
of fat before reheating. If allowed, a tablespoonful of steamed rice may 
be added to the broth, or a well-beaten egg may be stirred in while hot, 
just before serving. Heat until the whole becomes thickened, but do 
not boil. 

If preferred, the broth may be prepared by using only the white por- 
tion of the chicken in connection with lean beef. This is liked better by 
some to whom the strong flavor of the chicken is not pleasant. Or, pre- 
pare a broth of the white portion only of the chicken, and add to it an 
equal quantity of rich milk, season with salt, reheat, and serve. The broth 
may be flavored with celery if allowed. 

Mutton Broth. — Cut a pound of perfectly fresh, lean mutton or lamb 
— the scrags of neck are best — into small dice. Add a quart of cold 
water, and simmer gently for two or three hours. Strain, and when cold, 
skim off all fat. Reheat when needed for use. 

If preferred, a tablespoonful of rice which has been soaked for an 
hour in a little warm water, or a tablespoonful of cooked barley, may be 
simmered in the broth for a half hour before serving. Season with salt 
as desired. 

Veg"etable Broth. — Put a cupful of well washed white beans into a 
quart of cold water in a double boiler, and cook slowly until but a cupful 
of the liquor remains. Strain off the broth, add salt, and serve hot. If 
preferred, a few grains of powdered thyme may be added as flavoring. 

Vegetable Broth ?fo. 2. — Pick over and wash a cup of dried Scotch 
peas, and put to cook in a quart of cold water, cook slowly in a double 
boiler or in a kettle placed on the range where they will just simmer, 
until but a cupful of liquid remains. Strain off the broth, add salt and 
one third of a cupful of the liquor, without pulp, from well-stewed toma- 
toes. Serve hot. 

Mixed Yeg-etable Broths. — Broths may be prepared as directed from 
both black and white beans, and combined in the proportion of one third 
of the former to two thirds of the latter ; or a broth of lentils may be 
used instead of the black bean. 

REC/PES FOR PANADA. 

Broth Panada. — Use beef or chicken broth in place of water, and 
proceed the same as in Egg Panada, omitting the egg. 

Chicken Panada. — Take a cupful of the white meat of chicken, 
pounded to a paste in a mortar, and half a cup of whole-wheat crust 
or zwieback crumbs. Add sufificient chicken broth to make a thick 
gruel. Season with salt, boil up for a few minutes, and serve hot. 



FOOD FOR THE SICK. 429 

Eg'g: Panada. — Put two ounces of light, whole-wheat crusts into a pint 
of cold water in a gianite-ware stewpan ; simmer gently for three quarters 
of an hour, stirring occasionally. Season with a spoonful of sweet cream 
and a little salt, then stir in the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and serve. 

Milk Pauada. — Heat a pint of milk to boiling, then allow it to cool. 
Add two ounces of nice, light, whole-wheat crusts, and simmer for half an 
hour, stirring frequently. Season with a little sugar, if allowed. Gra- 
nola may be used in place of the crusts, if preferred. 

Raisin Panada. — Boil a half cup of raisins in a half pint of water. 
Break a slice of zwieback into fragments in a l)owl. Add a well-bcateu 
egg and a teaspoonful of sugar. Pour in the raisins, water and all, 
and beat very thoroughly. 

GRAINS FOR THE SICK. 

For invalids able to digest solid food, rice, cracked wheat, 
Graham grits, oatmeal, barley, farina and other grains may be 
prepared and cooked as previously directed in the chapter on 
Grains. 

The various cooked preparations of grains — granola, 
wheatena, avenola, wheat gluten, and gluten meal — manu- 
factured by the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., form 
excellent articles of diet for many invalids, when served with 
hot milk or cream, or prepared in the form of mush. Several 
recipes for their use have already been given in preceding 
chapters ; the following are a few additional ones : — 

REC/PES. 

Gluten Mush. — Heat together a cup of thin cream and three cups of 
water ; when boiling, sift in lightly with the fingers, stirring continuously 
meanwhile, enough wheat gluten to make a mush of the desired consist- 
ency. Boil up once and serve. A few blanched or roasted almonds may 
be stirred in just before serving, if desired. 

Tomato Gluten. — Heat a pint of stewed tomato, which has been 
rubbed through a fine colander to remove the seeds, to boiling, add 
salt to season, and three tablespoonfuls of gluten meal. Boil together 
for a moment until thickened, and serve hot. 

Tomato Gluten No. 2. — Prepare the same as the preceding, using five 
tablespoonfuls of the gluten meal, and seasoning with two tablespoonfuls 
of rather thick, sweet cream. 



430 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

MEATS FOR THE SICK. 

All meats for the sick should be prepared in the very sim- 
plest way, served with the plainest possible dressing, and with- 
out the use of condiments other than salt. 

REC/PES. 

Broiled Steak. — Take a half pound of round steak and a slice of ten- 
derloin; wipe well with a clean, wet cloth. Have a clear fire ; place the 
meat in an open wire broiler or on a gridiron over the coals, and cook, 
turning as often as you can count ten, for four or five minutes, if the 
slices are about one inch thick ; then with a lemon squeezer squeeze the 
juice from the round steak over the tenderloin, season with a little salt, 
and serve at once on a hot plate. 

Chicken. — For an invalid, the breast of a tender chicken broiled 
quickly over hot coals is best. For directions for broiling chicken see 
page 406. 

Chicken Jelly. — Dress a small chicken. Disjoint, break or pound 
the bones, and cut the meat into half-inch pieces. Remove every parti- 
cle of fat possible. Cover with cold water, heat very slowly, and sim- 
mer gently until the meat is in rags, and the liquid I'educed about one 
half. Strain off the liquor, cool, and remove all the fat. To make the 
broth more clear, add the shell and white of an egg, then reheat slowly, 
stirring all the time until hot. Strain through a fine cloth laid inside of a 
colander. Salt and a little lemon may be added as seasoning. Pour into 
small cups, and cool. 

Minced Chicken. — Stew the breast of a young chicken until tender ; 
mince fine with a sharp knife. Thicken the liquor in which it was stewed 
with a little flour, add salt and a little cream if allowed, then the minced 
chicken, and serve hot on zwieback, softened with cream as directed in 
the chapter on Breakfast Dishes. 

Mutton Chop. — Select a chop containing a large tenderloin ; cut thick, 
and broil for eight or ten minutes as directed for beef steak. Season 
lightly with salt, and serve hot. 

Minced Steak. — Mince some nice, juicy steak with a chopping knife, 
or in a sausage-cutter, rejecting as much of the fiber as possible ; make 
into small cakes and broil the same as steak. Salt lightly when done, and 
for dressing use a little beef juice prepared as directed on page 427. It 
may be thickened with a little flour as for gravy, if preferred. 

Scraped Steak. — Take a small piece of nice, juicy steak, and with a 
blunt case-knife or ta!:>lespoon, scrape off all the pulp, being careful to 



FOOT) FOR THE SICK. 43 I 

get none of the fibers. Piess the pulp together in the form of patties, 
and broil quickly over glowing coals. Salt lightly, and serve hot. It is 
better to be as rare as the patient can take it. Instead of butter, turn a 
spoonful or two of thick, hot beef juice over the steak, if any dressing 
other than salt is required. 

EGGS FOR THE SICK. 

REC/PES. 

Floated Eg-g-. — Separate the white from the yolk, and drop the yolk, 
taking great care not to break it, into boiling, salted water. Cook until 
hard and mealy. In the meantime, beat the white of the egg until stiff 
and firm. When the yolk is cooked, remove it from the water with a 
skimmer. Let the water cease to boil, then dip the beaten white in 
spoonfuls on the top of the scalding water, allowing it to remain for a 
second or two until coagulated, but not hardened. Arrange the white in 
a hot egg saucer, and place the cooked yolk in the center, or serve on toast. 
This makes a very pretty, as well as appetizing dish, if care is taken to 
keep the yolk intact. 

Gluten Meal Custard. — Beat together thoroughly, one pint of rich milk, 
one egg, and four tablespoonfuls of gluten meal. Add a little salt if de- 
sired, and cook with the dish set in another containing boiling water, until 
the custard has set. Or, turn the custard into cups, which place in a 
dripping pan partly filled with hot water, and cook in a moderate oven 
until the custard is set. 

Grliiten Custard.— Into a quart of boiling milk stir four tablespoonfuls 
of wheat gluten moistened with a little of the milk, which may be reserved 
for the purpose. Allow it to cook until thickened. Cool to lukewarm 
temperature, and add three well-beaten eggs, and a trifle of salt, if desired. 
Turn into cups, and steam over a kettle of boiling water until the custard 
is set. 

Steamed Eg-grs. — Break an egg into an egg saucer, sauce-dish, or patty 
pan, salt very slightly, and steam until the white has just set. In this 
way, it will retain its shape perfectly, and not be mixed with the few drops 
of water so annoying to invalids, and so hard to avoid in dishing a 
poached egg from water. 

Soft Custard. — Boil some milk, then cool it to 180', add three 
whipped eggs to each quart of milk, and keep at the temperature of 
180° for fifteen or twenty minutes. The object is to coagulate the eggs 
without producing the bad effect of exposure to a high temperature. 

Raw Eggs. — Break a fresh egg into a glass, add a tablespoonful of 
sugar, and beat to a stiff froth ; a little cold water may be added if liked. 



432 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

White of Egg. — Stir the white of an egg into a glass of cold water, or 
water as warm as it can be without coagulating the egg, and serve. 

White of Egg and Milk. — The white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth 
and stirred into a glass of milk, forms a nourishing food for persons of 
weak digestion. 

REFRESHING DRINKS AND DELICACIES FOR 
THE SICK. 

In many fevers and acute diseases, but little food is re- 
quired, and that of a character which merely appeases hunger 
and quenches thirst, without stimulation and without afford- 
ing much nourishment. 

Preparations from sago, tapioca, and other farinaceous sub- 
stances are sometimes serviceable for this purpose. Oranges, 
grapes, and other perfectly ripened and juicy fruits are also 
most excellent. They are nature's own delicacies, and serve 
both for food and drink. They should not, however, be kept 
in the sick room, but preserved in some cool place, and served 
when needed, as fresh and in as dainty a manner as possible. 
Like all food provided for the sick, they should be arranged to 
please the eye as well as the palate. The capricious appetite 
of an invalid will often refuse luscious fruit from the hand of 
a nurse, which would have been gladly accepted had it been 
served on dainty china, with a clean napkin and silver. 

The juice of the various small fruits and berries forms a 
basis from which may be made many refreshing drinks espe- 
cially acceptable to the dry, parched mouth of a sick person. 

Fruit juices can be prepared with but little trouble. For 
directions see page 209. 

Beverages from fruit juices are prepared by using a small 
quantity of the juice, and sufficient cold water to dilute it to 
the taste. If it is desirable to use such a drink for a sick per- 
son in some household where fruit juices have not been put 
up for the purpose, the juice may be obtained from a can of 
strawberries, raspberries, or other small fruit, by turning the 
whole into a coarse cloth and straining off the juice ; or ^ 



FOOD FOR THE SICK. 433 

tablespoonful of currant or other jelly may be dissolved in a 
tumbler of warm water, and allowed to cool. Either will make 
a good substitute for the prepared fruit juice, though the flavor 
will be less delicate. The hot beverages and many of the cold 
ones given in the chapter on Beverages will be found service- 
able for the sick, as will also the following additional ones : — 

RECIPES. 

Acorn Coftee. — Select plump, round, sweet acorns. Shell, and brown 
in an oven ; then grind in a coffee-mill, and use as ordinary coffee. 

Almond Milk. — Blanch a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds by 
pouring over them a quart of boiling water, and when the skins soften, rub- 
bing them off with a coarse towel. Pound the almonds in a mortar, a few 
at a time, adding four or five drops of milk occasionally, to prevent their 
oiling. About one tablespoonful of milk in all will be sufficient. When 
finely pounded, mi.x the almonds with a pint of milk, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, and a little piece of lemon rind. Place the whole over the 
fire to simmer for a little time. Strain, if preferred, and serve cold. 

Apple Beyerag"e. — Pare and slice very thin a juicy tart apple into a 
china bowl. Cover with boiling water, put a saucer over the bowl, and 
allow the water to get cold. Strain and drink. Crab apples may be 
used in the same way. 

Apple Beverage No. 2. — Bake two large, sour apples, and when tender, 
sprinkle a tablespoonful of sugar over them, and return to the oven until 
the sugar is slightly browned. Break and mash the apples with a silver 
spoon, pour over them a pint of boiling water ; cover and let stand until 
cold ; then strain and serve. 

Apple Toast Water. — Break a slice of zwieback into small pieces, and 
mix with them two or three well-baked tart apples. Pour over all a quart 
of boiling water, cover, and let stand until cold, stirring occasionally. 
When cold, strain, add sugar to sweeten if desired, and serve. 

Baked Milk. — Put a quart of new milk in a stone jar, tie a white paper 
over it, and let it stand in a moderately heated oven eight or ten hours. 
It becomes of a creamy consistency. 

Barley Lemonade. — Put a half cup of pearl barley into a quart of cold 
water, and simmer gently until the water has become mucilaginous and 
quite thick. This will take from an hour to an hour and a half. The 
barley will absorb most of the water, but the quantity given should make 
a teacupful of good, thick barley water. Add to this two teaspoonfuls of 
lemon juice and a tablespoonful of sugar. Let it get cold before serving. 
By returning the barley to the stewpan with another quart of cold water, 
28 



434 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

and simmering for an hour or an hour and a half longer, a second cup 
of barley water may be obtained, almost as goo^i as the first. 

Barley and. Fruit Drink, — Prepare a barley water as above, and add 
to each cupful a tablespoonful or two of cranberry, grape, raspberry, or 
any tart fruit syrup. The pure juice sweetened will answer just as well ; 
or a little fruit jelly may be dissolved and added. 

Barley Milk. — Wash two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley in cold water 
until the water is clear. Put it to cook in a double boiler, with a quart of 
milk, and boil till the milk is reduced to a pint. Strain off the milk, and 
sweeten if desired. 

Cranberry Drink. — Mash carefully selected, ripe cranberries thor- 
oughly in an earthen dish, and pour boiling water over them. Let the 
mixture stand until cold, strain off the water, and sweeten to taste. Bar- 
berries prepared in the same manner make a nice drink. 

Currantade. — Mash thoroughly a pint of ripe, red currants, and one 
half the quantity of red raspberries ; add sugar to sweeten and two quarts 
of cold water. Stir, strain, cool on ice, and sei've. 

Crust Coft'ee. — Brown slices of Graham bread in a slow oven until veiy 
dark in color. Break in pieces and roll fine with a rolling pin. A quantity 
of this material may be prepared at one time and stored in glass fruit cans 
for use. When needed, pour a cupful of actively boiling water over a 
dessertspoonful of the prepared crumbs, let it steep for a few moments, 
then strain and serve. 

Eg'g'nog-. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, add one table- 
spoonful of white sugar, then beat again. Next add the yolk, and beat ; 
then a tablespoonful of milk, one of cold water, and one of any fruit 
juice desired. 

Eggnog- No. 2. — Prepare as above, using two tablespoonfuls of water 
instead of one of water and one of milk, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice 
in place of other fruit juice. 

Eggnog No. 3. — Beat the yolk of a freshly laid egg with a table- 
spoonful of sugar until it is light and creamy ; add to this, one half cup 
of hot milk and stir in lightly the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Serve 
at once. 

Egg Lemonade. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, then mix 
with it the juice of a small lemon, and one tablespoonful of sugar. Add a 
half pint of cold water. Or, beat together with an egg beater a table- 
spoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of sugar, the white of an egg and a 
cup of cold water, until thoroughl)' mingled, then serve at once. 

Flaxseed Tea. — Take an ounce of whole flaxseed, half an ounce of 
crushed licorice root, an ounce of refined sugar, and four tablespoonfuls 
of lemon juice. Pour a quart of boiling water over them; keep near the 
fire for four hours, and then strain off the liquid. The flaxseed should 



P'OOJ~) FOR THE SICK. 435 

not be crushed, as the mucilage is in the outer part of the kernel, and if 
bruised, the boiling water will extract the oil of the seed, and render the 
decoction nauseous. Make fresh daily. 

Gum Arabic Water. — Pour a pint of boiling water over an ounce of 
clean gum arable. When dissolved, add the juice of one lemon and a tea- 
spoonful of sugar, and strain. 

Hot Water. — Put good, fresh water into a perfectly clean granite-ware 
kettle, already warmed ; let it come to a boil very quickly, and use at once. 
Do not leave it to simmer until it has become insipid through the loss of 
the air which it contains. 

Hot Lemonade. — Put in a glass a thin slice of lemon and the juice 
of half a small lemon, being careful to remove all seeds ; mix with it one 
dessertspoonful of white sugar, and fill the glass with boiling water. Or, 
remove the peel of a lemon in very thin parings, turn one pint of boiling 
water over them, letting it stand for a few moments covered. Remove 
the peel, add the juice of a lemon and one tablespoonful of sugar, and 
serve. 

Irixli Moss Lemonade. — Soak one fourth of a cup of Irish moss in 
cold water until it begins to soften ; then work it free from sand and tiny 
shells likely to be on it, and thoroughly wash. Put it in a granite-ware 
basin, and pour over it two (Mips of boiling water. Leave on the back of 
the range where it will keep hot, but not boil, for half an hour ; strain, 
add the juice of one lemon, and sugar to taste. Drink hot or cold, as 
preferred. 

Orang'eade. — Rub lightly two ounces of lump sugar on the rind of two 
nice, fresh oranges, to extract the flavor ; put this sugar into a pitcher, 
to which add the juice expressed from the oranges, and that from one 
lemon. Pour over all one pint of cold water, stir thoroughly, and serve. 

Plain Lemonade. — For one glass of lemonade squeeze the juice of half 
a small lemon into the glass ; carefully remove all seeds and particles. 
Add a dessertspoonful of sugar, and fill the glass with cold water. 

Slippery Elm Tea. — Pour boiling water over bits of slippery elm bark . 
or slippery elm powder, cool, and strain. If desired, a little lemon juice 
and sugar may be added to fla\'or. 

Toast Water. — Toast a pint of whole-wheat or Graham bread crusts 
very brown, but do not burn. Co\er with a pint of cold water. Let it 
stand an hour, strain, and use. Sugar and a little cream may be added 
if allowed. 

Tamarind Water. — Boil four ounces of tamarinds and the same of 
raisins slowly, in three quarts of water, for fifteen or twenty minutes, or 
until the water is reduced nearly one fourth ; strain while hot into a 
bowl with a small slice of lemon peel in it. Set away until cold before 
usiui;. 



436 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

BREAD. 

For invalids who are able to partake of solid foods, the Break- 
fast Rolls, Whole-wheat Puffs, Beaten Biscuit, Crisps, and other 
unfermented breads, directions for the preparation of which 
are given in the chapter on Bread, will be found excellent. 

The various crackers, wafers, and invalid foods manufac- 
tured by the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., are 
also to be recommended. Zwieback, prepared as directed on 
page 289, will be found serviceable and wholesome to be used 
with broths and gruels. It may be prepared so as to look 
especially tempting by cutting off the crust of the bread, and 
cutting the slice into fancy shapes with a cooky cutter before 
toasting. .In cases where their use is allowable, many of the 
various toasts given under the head of Breakfast Dishes will 
be relished. 

REC/PES. 

Diabetic Biscuit. — Make a stiff dough of Graham or entire-wheat flour 
and water. Knead thoroughly, and let it stand three hours ; then place 
on a sieve under a faucet, turn a stream of water over the dough, and 
wash out the starch, kneading and working with the hands so that all 
portions of the dough will be equally washed. When the starch has 
been all washed out, as will be indicated by the water running off clear, 
the dough will be a rubber-like, glutinous mass. It may then be cut into 
long strips, and these divided into equal-sized pieces or cubes. Place 
the pieces on shallow baking pans in a rather hot oven, which, after a 
short time, should be allowed to cool to moderate heat, and bake for 
two hours, when they should be of a dark, rich brown color and light 
and crisp throughout. If tough, they need rebaking. If the oven is 
too hot, the pieces will puff up, becoming mere hollow shells ; if not suffi- 
ciently hot, they will not rise properly. 

Diabetic Biscuit No. 2. — Prepare a dough and wash out the starch as 
in the preceding. Add coarse middlings so that the dough can be rolled 
into thin cakes, and bake. 

Grliiten Meal Gems. — Beat together one half cup of ice water, one half 
cup of thick, sweet cream, and one egg ; then add one cup and a table- 
spoonful of the gluten meal prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co. Turn 
into slightly heated gem irons, and bake in a moderately hot oven from 
one half to three fourths of an hour. 



FOOD I'OR '1"HK SIf'K 437 

JEUIES AND OTHER SIMPLE DESSERTS 
FOR THE SICK. 

Invalids whose digestion will allow of other than the plain- 
est foods will find most of the desserts made with fruits and 
those with fruits and grains given in the chapter on Desserts, 
excellent for their use. The following are a few additional 
recipes of a similar character : — 

REC/PES. 

Arrowroot Jelly. — Rub two heaping teaspoonfuls of arrowroot smooth 
in a very little cold water„ and stir it into a cupful of boiling water, 
in which should be dissolved two teaspoonfuls of sugar. Stir until 
clear, allowing it to boil all the time ; lastly, add a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice. Serve cold, with cream and sugar if allowed. 

Arrowroot Blaucniang'e. — Rub two and a half tablespoonf uls of best 
arrowroot smooth in half a cup of cold milk, and stir slowly into two and 
one half cups of boiling new milk. When it begins to thicken, add 
three fourths of a cup of sugar, and cook, stirring constantly for several 
minutes. Turn into molds and cool. Serve with fruit juice or fruit sauces. 

Currant Jelly. — Soak an ounce of Cox's gelatine in half a pint of cold 
water for fifteen minutes, then pour over it a teacupful of boiling water ; 
strain, and add one pint of currant juice, one tablespoonful of sugar, and 
set on ice to cool. 

Iceland Moss Jelly. — Wash about four ounces of moss very clean in 
lukewarm water. Boil slowly in a quart of cold water. When quite dis- 
solved, strain it onto a tablespoonful of currant or raspberry jelly, stir- 
ring so as to blend the jell}' perfectly with the moss. Turn into a mold, 
and cool. 

Iceland Moss Blancmange. — Substitute milk for the water, and pro- 
ceed as in the foregoing. Flavor with lemon or vanilla. Strain through 
a muslin cloth, turn into a mold, and let stand till firm and cold. 

Orange Whey. — Add the juice of one sour orange to a pint of sweet 
milk. Heat very slowly until the milk is curded, then strain and cool. 

Wliite Custard. — Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, add a 
little salt if desired, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. A bit of grated 
lemon rind may also be used for flavoring. Add lastly a pint of new 
milk, little by little, beating thoroughly all the while. Bake in cups set 
in a pan of hot water. When firm in the center, take out and set in a 
cool place. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



Regimen is better than physic. — I'oltair,'. 

Many dishes have induced many diseases. — Seneca. 

Dr. Lyman Beecher tells the following story of his aunt, which well illustrates 
a popular notion that sick people should be fed with all sorts of dainties, no matter 
what the nature of the disease. When a boy eight or nine years of age, he was one 
day suffering in the throes of indigestion, as the result of having swallowed a large 
amount of indigestible mince pie. His kind-hearted aunt noticed the pale and dis- 
tressed look on his face, and said to him, with genuine sympathy in her voice, 
" Lyman, you look sick. You may go into the pantry and help yourself to a nice 
piece of fruit cake just warm from the oven." 

* Fix on that course of life which is the most excellent, and custom will render it 
the most delightful. — Pythagoras. 

A MERE indigestion can temporarily metamorphose the character. The eel slews 
of Mohammed IL kept the whole empire in a state of nervous excitement, and one 
of the meat-pies which King Philip failed to digest caused the revolt of the Nether- 
lands. — Osivald. 

Few seem conscious that there is such a thing as physical morality. Men's 
habitual words and acts imply that they are at liberty to treat their bodies as they 
please. The fact is, that all breaches of the laws of health are physical sins. — 
Herbert Spencer. 

Practical right and good conduct are much more dependent on health of body 
than on health of mind. — Prof. Schneider. 

Dr. Aberxethy's reply to the Duke of York when consulted about his health 
was, " Cut off the supplies and the enemy will soon leave the citadel." 



[43SJ 





y-^A^n/iA^^^' 



FOOD FOR THE AGED. 

NE of the first requisites of food for the aged is that it 
shall be easy of digestion, since with advancing age and 
decreasing physical energy, digestion and assimilation 
^<^ become correspondingly less vigorous, and foods that 
may be taken with impunity at an earlier period of life, overtax 
the enfeebled organs and prove highly injurious. The fact 
that the vital machinery is worn and weakened with age has 
led to the popular notion that old people require a stimulating 
diet as a "support " for their declining forces. That this is an 
error is apparent from the fact that stimulation either by 
drink or food lessens instead of reinforces vital strength, thus 
defeating the very purpose desired, Flesh food in quantities is 
a peculiarly unsuitable diet for the aged, not alone because it is 
stimulating", but because it produces a tendency to plethora, a 
condition which is especially inimical to the health of old 
persons. Eminent authorities on diet also reason that the loss 
of the teeth at this period, whereby thorough mastication of 
flesh food is done with difficulty, even with the best artificial 
aids, sliould be considered a sign that nature intends such 

foods to be discarded by the old. 

I 430 1 



440 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



A milk, grain, and fruit diet is undoubtedly the one best 
suited to the average person in old age. Vegetables and 
legumes in well-prepared soups may also be used to advan- 
tage. Directions for such soups, as also for cooking grains 
and grain products, will be found in the preceding pages. 

The following bills of fare, one for each season of the year, 
will perhaps serve to illustrate how a varied and appetizing 
regimen may be provided without the use of flesh foods : — 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruits 

Graham Grits and Cream 

Prune Toast 

Graham Puffs Cream Crisps 

Strawberries 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



DINNER 

Vegetable Broth with Toasted Rolls 

Baked Potato with Pease Gravy 

Stewed Asparagus 

Cracked Wheat and Cream 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Canned Berries 

Manioca with Fruit 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruits 

Rolled Oats and Cream 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Macaroni with Cream Sauce 

Whole-Wheat Pui^s Stewed Peaches 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



DINNER 

Lentil Soup 

Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 

Escalloped Tomato Green Corn Pulp 

Browned Rice and Cream 

Fruit Bread 

Lemon Apple Sauce 

Prune Pie 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruits 

Blackberry Mush and Cream 

Cream Toast 

Graham Crusts 

Blueberries 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



DINNER 

Green Pea Soup 

Mashed Potato 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Pearl Barley and Cream 

Cream Rolls Blackberries 

Stewed Fruit Pudding 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruits 

Rolled Wheat and Cream 

Tomato Toast 

Corn Bread Graham Gems 

Stewed Prunes 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



DINNER 

Vegetable Oyster Soup 

Raked Sweet Potato Mashed Peas 

Steamed Rice with Fig Sauce 

Graham Bread 

Stewed Dried Fruit 

Apples 

Caramel Coffee or Hot Milk 



FOOD FOR I HE a(;ed and thk very young. 441 

In the selection of a dietary for elderly persons, much 
must depend upon their physical condition, the daily amount 
of exercise to which they are accustomed, their habits in earlier 
life, and a variety of other circumstances. 

The quantity as well as quality of food for the aged should 
receive consideration. Diminished bodily activity and the fact 
that growth has ceased, render a smaller amount of food nec- 
essary to supply needs ; and a decrease in the amount taken, in 
proportion to the age and the activity of the subject, must be 
made or health will suffer. The system will become clogged, 
the blood filled with imperfectly elaborated material, and gout, 
rheumatism, apoplexy, or other diseased conditions will be the 
inevitable result. The digestion of heavy meals is a tax upon 
vital powers at any time of life, but particularly so as age ad- 
vances ; and for him who has passed his first half-century, over- 
feeding is fraught with great danger. Cornaro, an Italian of 
noble family, contemporary with Titian in the sixteenth cen- 
tury, after reaching his eighty-third year wrote several essays 
upon diet and regimen for the aged, in one of which he says : 
" There are old lovers of feeding Avho say that it is necessary 
that they should eat and drink a great deal to keep up their 
natural heat, which is constantly diminishing as they advance 
in years ; and that it is therefore their duty to eat heartily and 
of such things as please their palate, be they hot, cold, or tem- 
perate, and that if they were to lead a sober life, it would be 
a short one. To this I answer, Our kind Mother Nature, in 
order that old men may live to still greater age, has contrived 
matters so that they may be able to subsist on little, as I do ; 
for large quantities of food cannot be digested by old and 
feeble stomachs." 

Cornaro lived to be one hundred years old, doubtless owing 
largely to his simple, frugal habits. 



442 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



DIET FOR THE YOUNG. 

A very large share of the mortality among young children 
results from dietetic errors which proper knowledge and care 
on the part of those who have them in charge might commonly 
avoid. From infancy to the age of twelve or eighteen months, 
milk is the natural and proper food. Milk contains all the food 
elements except starch, which cannot be digested by very 
young children, owing to the insufficient formation of digestive 
elements of the salivary secretion during the first few months. 
If the child is deprived of the milk provided by nature, the best 
artificial food is cow's milk ; it, however, requires very careful 
selection and intelligent preparation. The animal from which 
the milk comes, should be perfectly healthy and well cared for. 
The quality of her food should also receive attention, as there 
is little doubt that disease is often communicated to infants by 
milk from cows improperly fed and cared for. An eminent 
medical authority offers the following important points on this 
subject : — 

" The cow selected for providing the food for an infant 
should be between the ages of four and ten years, of mild dis- 
position, and one which has been giving milk from four to eight 
weeks. She should be fed on good, clean grain, and hay free 
from must. Roots, if any are fed, should be of good quality, 
and she should have plenty of good clean water from a living 
spring or well. Her pasture should be timothy grass or native 
grass free from weeds ; clover alone is bad. She should be 
cleaned and cared for like a carriage horse, and milked twice a 
day by the same person and at the same time. Some cows are 
unfit by nature for feeding infants." 

Milk from the same animal should be used if possible. 
Changing from one cow's milk to another, or the use of such 
milk as is usually supplied by city milkmen, often occasions 
serious results. The extraction of the heat from the milk 
immediately after milking and before it is used or carried 
far, especially in hot weather, is essential. While the milk 



FOOD FOR THE AOED AND IHE VERY YOUNG. 443 

itself should be clean and pure, it should also be perfectly 
fresh and without any trace of decomposition. To insure all 
these requisites, besides great care in its selection, it must be 
sterilized, and if not intended for immediate use, bottled and 
kept in a cool place until needed. It is not safe to feed young 
children upon unsterilized milk that has stood a few hours. 
Even fresh milk from the cleanest cows, unless drawn into 
bottles and sealed at once, contains many germs. These little 
organisms, the cause of fermentation and decomposition, multi- 
ply very rapidly in milk, and as they increase, dangers from 
the use of the milk increase. 

There is no doubt that cholera infantum and other diges- 
tive disturbances common among young children would be 
greatly lessened by the use of properly sterilized milk. Direc- 
tions for sterilizing milk, and additional suggestions respecting 
points to be considered in its selection, are to be found in the 
chapter on Milk, etc. 

Cow's milk differs from human milk in that it contains 
nearly three times as much casein, but only two thirds as 
much fat and three fourths as much sugar. Cow's milk is 
usually slightly acid, while human milk is alkaline. The 
casein of cow's milk forms large, hard curds, while that of 
breast milk forms fine, soft curds. These facts make it im- 
portant that some modification be made in cow's milk to 
render it acceptable to the feeble stomach of an infant. Cases 
are rare where it is safe to feed a child under nine months of 
age on pure, undiluted cow's milk. A common method of 
preparing cow's milk so as to make it suitable for infant feed- 
ing, is to dilute it with pure water, using at first only one third 
or one fourth milk, the proportion of milk being gradually 
increased as the child's stomach becomes accustomed to the 
food and able to bear it, until at the age of four months the 
child should be taking equal parts of milk and water. When 
sterilized milk is to be thus diluted, the water should be first 
boiled or added before sterilizing. A small amount of fine 
white sugar, or what is better, milk sugar, should be added to 
the diluted milk. Barley water, and thin, well-boiled, and care- 



444 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

fully strained oatmeal gruel thoroughly blended with the milk 
are also used for this purpose. A food which approximates 
more nearly the constituents of mother's milk may be prepared 
as follows : — 

Artificial Human Milk No. 1. — Blend one fourth pint of 
fresh, sweet cream and three fourths of a pint of warm water. 
Add one half ounce of milk sugar and from two to ten ounces 
of milk, according to the age of the infant and its digestive 
capacity. 

Artificial Human Milk No. 2. — Meigs's formula: Take 
two tablespoonfuls of cream of medium quality, one table- 
spoonful of milk, two of lime water, and three of water to 
which sugar of milk has been added in the proportion of 
seventeen and three fourths drams to the pint. This sac- 
charine solution must be prepared fresh every day or two 
and kept in a cool place. A child may be allowed from half 
a pint to three pints of this mixture, according to age. 

Artificial Human Milk No. 3. — Prepare a barley water 
by adding one pint boiling water to a pint of best pearl barley. 
Allow it to cool, and strain. Mix together one third of a pint 
of this barley water, two thirds of a pint of fresh, pure milk, 
and a teaspoonful of milk sugar. — Medical News. 

Peptonized milk, a formula for the preparation of which 
may be found on page 426, is also valuable as food for infants, 
especially for those of weak digestion. 

Mucilaginous Food Excellent in Gastro=Enteritis. — 
Wheat, one tablespoonful ; oatmeal, one half tablespoonful ; 
barley, one half tablespoonful ; water, one quart. Boil to one 
pint, strain, and sweeten. — Dietetic Gazette. 

Prepared Foods for Infants. — Of prepared infant foods 
we can recommend that manufactured by the Sanitarium Food 
Co., Battle Creek, Mich., as thoroughly reliable. There are hun- 
dreds of prepared infant foods in the market, but most of them 
are practically worthless in point of food value, being often 
largely composed of starch, a substance which the immature 
digestive organs of a young child are incapable of digesting. 
Hundreds of infants are yearly starved to death upon such foods. 



FOOD FOR THE AGED AND THE VERY YOUNG. 445 

All artificial foods require longer time for digestion than 
the food supplied by nature ; and when making use of such, 
great care should be taken to avoid too frequent feeding. It is 
absolutely essential for the perfect health of an infant as well 
as ot grown people, that the digestive organs shall enjoy a due 
interval of rest between the digestion of one meal and the 
taking of another. As a rule, a new-born infant may be safely 
fed, when using human milk, not oftener than once in every 
three or four hours. When fed upon artificial food, once in 
five or six hours is often enough for feeding, llie intervals 
between meals in either case should be gradually' prolonged as 
the child grows older. 

Ouantity of Food tor Infants. — Dr. J. H. Kellogg gives 
the following rules and suggestions for the feeding of infants : — 

" During the first week of a child's life, the weight of the 
food given should be i-ioo of the weight of the infant at 
birth. The daily additional amount of food required for a 
child amounts to about one fourth of a dram, or about one 
ounce at the end of each month. A child gains in weight from 
two thirds of an ounce to one ounce per day during the first 
five months of its life, and an average of one half as much 
daily during the balance of the first year. 

" From a series of tables which have been prepared, as the 
result of experiments carefully conducted in large lying-in es- 
tablishments, we have devised this rule : — 

" To find the amount of food required by a child at each feed- 
ing during the first year of life, divide the weight of the child 
at birth by lOO and add to this amount 3-100 of the gain which 
the child has made since birth. Take, for example, a child 
which weighs 7^ lbs. at birth, or 120 ounces. Dividing by lOO 
we have 1.2. oz. Estimating the weight according to the rule 
above given, the child at the end of nine months will have 
gained 210 oz. Dividing this by lOO and multiplying by 3, we 
have 6.3 oz. Adding to this our previous result, 1.2, we have 
7.5 oz. as the amount of food required at each feeding at the 
end of nine months by a child which weighed y^ lbs. at birth. 
To save mothers the trouble of making these calculations, we 



446 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



have prepared the following table, which will be found to hold 
good for the average child weighing 7-^ lbs. at birth. This is 
rather more than the ordinary child weighs, but we have pur- 
posely chosen a large child for illustration, as it is better that 
the child should have a slight excess of food than too little. 





Age of Child. 




I w. 


I m. 


2 m. 


3 m- 


4 m. 


6 m. 


9 m. 


12 m 


Amount of each feeding in ounces 

Number of feedings 


I 
lu 
10 

2 


8 
12-16 

2i 


3 

6 

18 

3 


4 

6 

24 

3 


5 
6 

30 

3 


6 
6 
36 
3. 


n 
5 

37* 
3i 


9 
5 
45 
3i 


Amount of food daily, in ounces 

Interval between feedings, in hours 



"In the above table the first column represents quantities for 
the first week, the second for the end of the second month, the 
third for the end of the third month, etc. It need not be men- 
tioned that the change in quantity should be even more grad- 
ual than represented in the table. 

" Attention should also be called to the fact that the time 
mentioned as the interval for feeding at different ages, does 
not apply to the whole twenty-four hours. Even during the 
first week, the child is expected to skip two feedings during 
the night, making the interval four hours instead of two. By 
the end of the second month, the interval between the feedings 
at night becomes six hours, and at the end of the ninth month, 
six and one half hours. 

"From personal observation we judge that in many cases 
children will do equally well if allowed a longer interval be- 
tween feedings at night. The plan of feeding five times daily 
instead of six, may be begun at as early an age as six months 
in many instances." 

Manner of Feeding Artificial Foods. — All artificial foods 
are best fed with a teaspoon, as by this method liability to 
overfeeding and danger from unclean utensils are likely to be 



FOOD FOR THE AGED AND THE VERY YOUNG. 447 

avoided. If a nursing-bottle is used, it should be of clear flint 
glass so that the slightest foulness may be easily detected, and 
one simple in construction, which can be completely taken 
apart for cleaning. Those furnished with conical black rubber 
caps are the best. Each time after using, such a bottle should 
have the cap removed, and both bottle and cap should be thor- 
oughly cleansed, first with cold water, and then with warm 
water in which soda has been dissolved in the proportion of a 
teaspoonful to a pint of water. They should then be kept im- 
mersed in weak soda solution until again needed, when both 
bottle and cap should be thoroughly rinsed in clean boiled 
Avater before they are used. Neglect to observe these precau- 
tions is one of the frequent causes of stomach disturbances in 
young children. It is well to keep two bottles for feeding, 
using them alternatel)'. 

Diet for Older Children. — No solid food or table-feeding 
of any kind should be given to a child until it has the larger 
share of its first, or milk teeth. Even then it must not be 
supposed that because a child has acquired its teeth, it may 
partake of all kinds of food with impunit\\ It is quite cus- 
tomary for mothers to permit their little ones to sit at the 
family table and be treated to bits of everything upon the bill 
of fare, apparently looking upon them as miniature grown peo- 
ple, with digestive ability equal to persons of mature growth, 
but simply lacking in stomach capacity to dispose of as much 
as older members of the family. The digestive apparatus of 
a child differs so greatly from that of an adult in its anatom- 
ical structure and in the character and amount of the digest- 
ive fluids, that it is by no means proper to allow a child to 
eat all kinds of wholesome foods which a healthy adult stom- 
ach can consume with impunity, to say nothing of the rich, 
highly seasoned viands, sweetmeats, and epicurean dishes which 
seldom fail to form some part of the bill of fare. It is true 
that many children are endowed with so much constitutional 
vigor that they do live and seemingly thrive, notwithstanding 
dietetic errors ; but the integrity of the digestive organs is 
liable to be so greatly impaired by continued ill-treatment that 



448 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

sooner or later in life disease results. Till the age of three 
years, sterilized milk, whole-wheat bread in its various forms, 
such of the grains as contain a large share of gluten, prepared 
in a variety of palatable ways, milk and fruit toasts, and the 
easily digested fruits, both raw and cooked, form the best die- 
tary. Strained vegetable soups may be occasionally added for 
variety. For from three to six years the same simple regimen, 
with easily digested and simply prepared vegetables, macaroni, 
and legumes prepared without skins, will be all-sufficient. If 
desserts are desirable, let them be simple in character and 
easily digestible. Tea, coffee, hot bread and biscuit, fried 
foods of all kinds, salted meats, preserves, rich puddings, cake, 
and pastries should be wholly discarded from the children's 
bill of fare. 

It is especially important that a dietary for children should 
contain an abundance of nitrogenous material. It is needed 
not only for repairs, but must be on deposit for the purpose of 
growth, since it is the bone and muscle-forming element of 
food. Milk, whole-wheat bread, oatmeal, barley, and prepara- 
tions of wheat, contain this element in abundance, and should 
for this reason be given great prominence in the children's 
dietary. 

Flesh foods are in no way necessary for children, since the 
food elements of which they are composed can be supplied 
from other and better sources, and many prominent medical 
authorities unite in the opinion that such foods are decidedly 
deleterious, and should not be used at all by children under 
eight or ten years of age. Experiments made by Dr. Camman, 
of New York, upon the dietary of nearly two hundred young 
children in an orphans' home, offer conclusive evidence that 
the death rate among children from gastro-intestinal troubles 
is greatly lessened by the exclusion of meat from their dietary. 
Dr. Clouston, of Edinburgh, an eminent medical authority, 
states that in his experience, those children who show the 
greatest tendencies to instability of the brain, insanity, and 
immoral habits are, as a rule, those who use animal food in 
excess ; and that he has seen a change of diet to milk and 



FOOD FOR THE AGED AND THE VERY YOUNG. 449 

farinaceous food produce a marked change in their nervous 
irritability. 

Scores of otli^r authorities corroborate Dr. Clouston's ob- 
servation, and assert that children fed largely on flesh foods 
have capricious appetites, suffer more commonly from indiges- 
tion in its various forms, possess an unstable nervous system, 
and have less resisting power in general. 

Candy and similar sweets generally given to children as a 
matter of course, may be excluded from their dietary with 
positive benefit in every way. It is true, as is often stated in 
favor of the use of these articles, that sugar is a food element 
needed by children ; but the amount required for the purpose 
of growth and repair is comparatively small, and is supplied in 
great abundance in" bread, grains, fruits, and other common 
articles of food. If an additional quantity is taken, it is not 
utilized by the system, and serves only to derange digestion, 
impair appetite, and indirectly undermine the health. 

Children are not likely to crave candy and other sweets 
unless a taste for such articles has been developed by indul- 
gence in them ; and their use, since they are seldom taken at 
mealtime, helps greatly to foster that most pernicious habit of 
childhood — eating between meals. No food, except at their 
regular mealtimes, should be the universal rule for children 
from babyhood up ; and although during their earliest years 
they require food at somewhat shorter intervals than adults, 
their meal hours should be arranged for the same time each 
day, and no piecing permitted. Parents who follow the too 
common practice of giving their little ones a cracker or fruit 
between meals are simply placing them under training for 
dyspepsia, sooner or later. Uninterrupted digestion proceeds 
smoothly and harmoniously in a healthy stomach ; but inter- 
ruptions in the shape of food sent down at all times and 
when the stomach is already at work, are justly resented, and 
such disturbances, if long continued, are punished by suffering. 

The appetite of a child is quite as susceptible of education, 
in both a right and wrong direction, as are its mental or moral 
faculties ; and parents in whose hands this education mainly 
29 



450 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

rests should give the subject careful consideration, since upon 
it the future health and" usefulness of their children not a little 
devolve. We should all be rulers of our appetites instead of 
subject to them ; but whether this be so or not, depends 
greatly upon early dietetic training. Many a loving mother, 
by thoughtless indulgence of her child, in season and out of 
season, in dainties and tidbits that simply serve to gratify the 
palate, is fostering a "love of appetite" which may ruin her 
child in years to come. There are inherited appetites and 
tendencies, it is true ; but even these may be largely overcome 
by careful early training in right ways of eating and drinking. 
It is possible to teach very young children to use such food as 
is best for them, and to refrain from the eating of things harm- 
ful ; and it should be one of the first concerns of every mother 
to start her children on the road to manhood and womanhood, 
well trained in correct dietetic habits. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



" The wanton taste no flesh nor fowl can choose. 
For which the grape or melon it wonld lose, 
Though all th' inhabitants of earth and air 
Be listed in the glutton's bill of fare." — Cowley. 

Jean Jacques Rousseau holds that intemperate habits are mostly acquired in 
early boyhood, when blind deference to social precedents is apt to overcome our natu- 
ral antipathies, and that those who have passed that period in safety, have generally 
escaped the danger of temptation. The same holds good of other dietetic abuses. 
If a child's natural aversion to vice has never been willfully perverted, the time will 
come when his welfare may be intrusted to the safe-keeping of his protective instincts. 
You need not fear that he will swerve from the path of health when his simple habits, 
sanctioned by nature and inclination, have acquired the additional strength of long 
practice. When the age of blind deference is past, vice is generally too unattractive 
to be very dangerous. — Osvahl. 

That a child inherits certain likes and dislikes in the matter of food cannot be 
questioned, and it does not in the least forbid the training of the child's taste tow ard 
that which is healthful and upbuilding ; it merely adds an element to be considered 
in the traininsr, — Sel. 



TABLE TOPICS. 45 I 

PREVKNTION is belter than eure. It is worth a liie effort to lift a man from 
degradation. To prevent liis fall is better. — Goiig/i. 

A CYNICAL French writer of tlie last century intending a satire upon the prin- 
ciples of vegetarianism adopted by Phillippe Hecquet, puts into the mouth of one of 
the character.s in his book what, in the grossly voluptuous life of that country and 
time, the author no doubt imagined to be the greatest absurdities conceivable in 
reference to diet, but which, in the light of present civilization are but the merest 
hygienic truths. A doctor had been called to a gouty and fever-stricken patient. 
"Pray what is your ordinary diet?" asked the physician. 

"My usual food," replied the patient, "is broth and juicy meat." 

"•Broth and juicy meat ! " cried the doctor, alarmed. "I do not wonder to lind 
you sick ; such dishes are poisoned pleasures and snares that luxury spreads for man- 
kind,- so as to ruin them the more effectually. . . . How old are you, pray ? " 

"I am in my sixty-ninth year," replied the patient. 

"Exactly," . . . saij.1 the physician; if you had drunk nothing else than pure 
water all your life, and had been satisfied with simple nourishment, — such as boiled 
apples for example, — you would not now be tormented with the gout, and all your 
limbs would perform their functions with ease." 

Dr. Horace Bl'shnell says : "The child is taken when his training begins in 
a state of naturalness as respects all the bodily tastes and tempers, and the endeavor 
should be to keep him in that key, to let no stimulation of excess or delicacy disturb 
the simplicity of nature, and no sensual pleasure in the name of food become a want 
or expectation of his appetite. Any artificial appetite begun is the beginning of dis- 
temper, disease, and a general disturbance of natural proportion. Nine tenths of the 
intemperate drinking begins, not in grief and destitution, as we so often hear, but in 
vicious feeding." 

Always let the food be simply for nourishment — never more, never less. Never 
should food be taken for its own sake, but for the sake of promoting bodily and 
mental activity. Still less should the peculiarities of food, its taste or delicacy ever 
become an object in themselves, but only a means to make it good, pure, wholesome 
nourishment; else in both cases the food destroys health. — Froebel. 

Since what need mortals, save twain things alone, 

Crushed grain (heaven's gift), and steaming water-draught ? 

Food nigh at hand, and Nature's aliment — 

Of which no glut contents us. 

Pamjiered taste hunts out device of other catal)lus. — Euripides. 





ICONOMY, one of the cardinal principles of success in 
^^ the details of housekeeping, as in all other occupations 
in life, consists not alone in making advantageous use of 
fresh material, but in carefully preserving and utilizing 
the "left-over" fragments and bits of food which accrue in 
every household. Few cooks can make such perfect calcula- 
tion respecting the desires and needs of their families as to 
provide just enough and no more, and the improvident waste 
of the surplus thus prepared, is in many homes fully equal to 
one half the first cost of the meal. Scarcely anything need 
ever be wasted — certainly nothing which was at first well 
cooked. There are ways of utilizing almost every kind of 
cooked food so that it will be quite as appetizing and nutritious 
as when first prepared. 

All left-over foods, as grains, vegetables, or others of a 
moist character, should be removed to clean dishes before put- 
ting away. Unless this precaution is observed, the thin smears 
[452] 



FRAGMENTS AND LEFT-OVER FOODS. 453 

and tiny bits about the edges of the dish, which become sour 
or moldy much sooner than the larger mass, are apt to spoil 
the whole. They should also be set on ice or be kept in a cool, 
dry place until needed. Left-over foods of any kind, to be 
suitable again for use, must be well preserved. Sour or moldy 
fragments are not fit for food. 

Uses of Stale Bread. — If properly made from wholesome 
and nutritious material and well preserved, there are few other 
foods that can be combined into more varied and palatable 
dishes than left-over bread. To insure the perfect preserva- 
tion of the fragments, the loaf itself should receive good care. 
Perfectly sweet, light, well-baked bread has not the same pro- 
pensity to mold as a poorer loaf; but the best of bread is 
likely to become musty if its surroundings are not entirely 
wholesome. The receptacle used for keeping the loaves 
should be frequently washed, scalded, and well dried. Crumbs 
and fragments should be kept in a separate receptacle and as 
thoroughly cared for. It is well in cutting bread not to slice 
more than will be needed, and to use one loaf before beginning 
on another. Bread grows stale much faster after being cut. 

Whole or half slices of bread which have become too dry 
to be palatable may be utilized for making zwieback, direc- 
tions for the use and preparation of which are given on 
page 289. 

Broken pieces of bread not suitable for zwieback, crusts, 
and trimmings of the loaf make excellent croutons, a most 
palatable accompaniment for soups, gruels, hot milk, etc. To 
prepare the croutons cut the fragments as nearly uniform in size 
as possible, — half-inch cubes are convenient, — and place them 
on tins in a warming oven to dry. Let them become crisply dry, 
and lightly browned, but not scorched. They are preferable 
to crackers for use in soups, and require so little work to pre- 
pare, and are so economical withal, that one who has once 
tried them will be likely to keep a supply on hand. The 
crumbs and still smaller fragments may be utilized for thicken- 
ing soups and for various dressings and puddings, recipes for 
many of which are given in preceding chapters. 



454 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

If crumbs and small bits of bread accumulate more rapidly 
than they can be used, they may be carefully dried, not 
browned, in a warming oven, after which put them in a 
mortar and pound them, or spread them upon an old bread 
board, fold in a clean cloth and roll them with a rolling pin un- 
til fine. Prepared thus, stored in glass fruit cans and put away 
in a dry place, they will keep almost indefinitely, and can be 
used when needed. For preparing escalloped vegetables of all 
kinds, these prepared crumbs are excellent ; they give a fine, 
nutty flavor to the dish, which fresh crumbs do not possess. 

I/eft=over Grains. — Left-over grains, if well kept, may be 
reheated in a double boiler without the addition of water, so 
as to be quite as palatable as when freshly cooked. Small 
quantities of left-over grains can be utilized for preparing 
various kinds of desserts, where the ingredients require previ- 
ous cooking. Rice, barley, pearl wheat, and other whole 
grains can be satisfactorily used in soups in which a whole 
grain is required; oatmeal, rolled oats, corn meal, grits, etc., 
with the addition of a little milk and cream, may be made into 
delicious gruels ; they may also be used advantageously in 
the preparation of vegetable soups, many of which are even im- 
proved by the addition of a few spoonfuls of well-kept cooked 
oatmeal or rolled oats. The left-over grains may also be 
utilized in a variety of breads, directions for the preparation 
of which are given in,the chapter on Bread. 

Ireft=over Vegetables. — Left-over portions of most varie- 
ties of vegetables can be best utilized for soups as stated on 
page 275. Cold mashed potato may be made into potato 
cakes as directed on page 237 of the chapter on Vegetables, 
where will also be found many other recipes, suited to the use 
of these left-over foods. 

Ireft=over Meats. — Most cook books offer numerous recipes 
for croquettes, hashes, and fried dishes prepared from rem- 
nants of meat and fish, which, although they serve the purpose 
of using up the fragments, are not truly economical, because 
they are generally far from wholesome. Most fragments of 
this character are more digestible served cold as a relish, or 



TABLE TOPICS. 



455 



utilized for soups and stews, than compounded into fancy 
dishes requiring to be fried and highly seasoned or served 
with rich sauces. 

Lcft'Over Milk. — Small quantities of unsterilized milk or 
cream left over should always be carefully scalded, then cooled 
at once to a temperature of 60, ° and put in a cool place, in 
order to keep it sweet and fresh until the next meal. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



"Care preserves what Industry gains. He who attends to his business dili- 
gently, but not carefully, throws away with one hand what he gathers with the 
other." — Co/ ton. 

"What does cookery mean?" 

It means the knowledge of all fruits and herbs and balms and spices — it means 
carefulness, and inventiveness, and watchfulness, and willingness, and readiness of 
appliance. It means the economy of your great grandmothers and the science of 
modern chemists, — it means much tasting and no wasting. — Riis/cin. 

A PENNY saved is two pence clear 

A pin a day 's a groat a year. — Franklin. 

Bad cooking is waste — waste of money and loss of comfort. Whom (iod has 
joined in matrimony, ill-cooked joints and ill-boiled potatoes have very often put 
asunder. — Smites. 

Never sacrifice the more precious things — time, health, temper, strength — in 
attempting to save the less precious — money. — Sel. 

Learn by how little life may be sustained and how much nature requires. The 
gifts of Cerea and water are sufficient nourishment for all peoples. — Phiirsalia. 




^^UMAN nature is so susceptible to externals, while good 
digestion is so dependent upon interior conditions, that 
all the accessories of pleasant surroundings — neatness, 
?g/(| cheeriness, and good breeding — should be brought into 
requisition for the daily gathering of the family at mealtime. 
The dining room should be one of the airiest, choicest rooms in 
the house, with a pleasant outlook, and, if possible, with east 
windows, that the morning sun may gladden the breakfast hour 
with its cheering rays. Let plants, flowers, birds, and pictures 
have a place in its appointments, that the association with 
things bright and beautiful may help to set the keynote of our 
own lives in cheerful accord. A dark, gloomy, ill-ventilated 
room brings depression of spirits, and will make the most 
elaborate meal unsatisfactory ; while the plainest meal may 
seem almost a feast when served amid attractive surrounding's. 
Neatness is an important essential ; any home, however humble, 
may possess cleanliness and order, and without these, all charms 
of wealth and art are of little account. 

A thorough airing each morning and opening of the windows 
a few minutes after each meal to remove the odor of food, are 
[ 456 ] 



THE ART OF DINING. 45/ 

important items in the care of the dining room. The furnishing 
may be simple and inexpensive, — beauty in a home is not 
dependent upon expense, — but let it be substantial, tasteful, 
harmonious in color and soft in tone, nothing gaudy or s'howy. 
Use no heavy draperies, and have no excess of ornament and 
bric-a-brac to catch dust and germs. A hard-finished wood 
floor is far superior to a carpet in point of healthfulness, and 
quite as economical and easy to keep clean. The general 
furnishing of the room, besides the dining table and chairs, 
should include a sideboard, upon which may be arranged the 
plate and glassware, with drawers for cutlery and table linen ; 
also a side-table for extra dishes needed during the service 
of a meal. 

An open fireplace, when it can be afforded, aids in ventilation 
as well as increases the cheerful aspect of the room. 

A moveable china closet with glass encasements for keeping 
the daintier china, glass, or silver ware not in common use is 
often a desirable article of furniture in small homes ; or a shal- 
low closet may be built in the wall of the dining-room for 
this purpose. A good size for such a closet is twelve inches 
deep and three feet wide. Four shelves, with one or more 
drawers below, in which may be kept the best table napery, 
afford ample space in general. The appearance of the whole 
may be made very pleasing by using doors of glass, and 
filling in the back and sides of the shelves with velvet paper 
in dark-brown, dull-red, or any shade suitable for background, 
harmonizing with the general furnishing of the room. The 
shelves should be of the same material and have the same 
finish as the woodwork of the room. The upper side may be 
covered with felt if desired ; and such artistic taste may be 
displayed in the arrangement of the china as to make the closet 
ornamental as well as convenient. 

Table=Talk. — A sullen, silent meal is a direct promoter 
of dyspepsia. "Laugh and grow fat" is an ancient adage 
embodying good hygienic doctrine. It has long been well 
understood that food digests better when seasoned with agree- 
able conversation, and it is important that unpleasant topics 



458 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

should be avoided. Mealtime should not be made the occasion 
to discuss troubles, trials, and misfortunes, which rouse only 
gloomy thoughts, impair digestion, and leave one at the close 
of the meal worried and wearied rather than refreshed and 
strengthened. Let vexatious questions be banished from the 
family board. Fill the time with bright, sparkling conversa- 
tion, but do not talk business or discuss neighborhood gossip. 
Do not let the food upon the table furnish the theme of con- 
versation ; neither praise nor apology are in good taste. Par- 
ents who make their food thus an especial topic of conversation 
are instilling into their children's minds a notion that eating 
is the best part of life, whereas it is only a means to a higher 
end, and should be so considered. Of all family gatherings 
the meals should be the most genial and pleasant, and with a 
little effort they may be made most profitable to all. It is said 
of Dr. Franklin that he derived his peculiarly practical turn of 
mind from his father's table talk. 

Let themes of conversation be of general interest, in which 
all may take a part. If there are children, a pleasant custom 
for the breakfast hour is to have each in turn relate something 
new and instructive, that he or she has read or learned in the 
interval since the breakfast hour of the previous day. This 
stimulates thought and conversational power, while music, 
history, adventure, politics, and all the arts and sciences offer 
ample scope for securing interesting items. 

Another excellent plan is the selection of a special topic for 
conversation for each meal or for the meals of a day or a week, 
a previous announcement of the topic being made, that all, 
even the youngest, may have time to prepare something to 
say of it. The benefits from such social intercourse around 
the board can hardly be over-estimated ; and if thus the meal- 
time is prolonged, and too much appears to be taken out of the 
busy day, be sure it will add to their years in the end, by 
increasing health and happiness. 

Table Manners. — Good breeding and true refinement are 
nowhere more apparent than in manners at table. These do 
not relate alone to the proper use of knife and fork, napkin and 



THE ART OF DINING. 459 

spoon, but to habits of punctuality, neatness, quietness, order, 
and that kind thoughtfuhiq;3s and courteous attention which 
spring" from the heart — "in honor preferring one another." 
The purpose of eating should not be merely the appeasement 
of hunger or the gratification of the palate, but the acquiring 
of strength for labor or study, that we may be better fitted for 
usefulness in the world. Consequently, we should eat like 
responsible beings, and not like the lower orders of animals. 
Good table manners cannot be put on for special occasions 
and laid aside like a garment. Persons not wont to observe 
the rules of politeness in the every-day life of their own house- 
holds can never deceive others into thinking them well bred 
on " company" occasions. Ease and refinement of manners are 
only acquired by habitual practice, and parents should early 
accustom their children by both precept and example to 
observe the requirements of good behavior and politeness at 
table. Elaborate details are not necessary. We subjoin a few 
of the more simple rules governing table etiquette : — • 

1. Eat slowly, never filling the mouth very full and avoid- 
ing all appearance of greediness. 

2. Masticate thoroughly, keeping the lips closed. Eating 
and drinking should be noiseless. 

3. Never speak with the mouth full, nor interrupt another 
when talking. Any remark worthy of utterance will keep. 

4. Do not express a choice for any particular portion or 
dish, unless requested to do so ; and do not find fault with the 
food. If by chance anything unpleasant is found in it, do not 
call the attention of others to the fact by either remark or 
manner. 

5. Sit conveniently near the table, but not crowded up close 
against it ; and keep the hands, when not in use to convey 
food to the mouth, in the lap, beneath the table, never resting 
upon the table, toying with knife, fork, or spoon. 

6. Do not tilt back your chair, or lean upon the table with 
the elbow, or drum with the fingers. 

7. It is contrary to good breeding to shovel one's food 
into the mouth with a knife. Everything which can be eaten 



460 _ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

with a fork should be taken with that utensil alone. If neces- 
sary, use the knife for dividing the food, and afterward the fork 
to convey it to the mouth. Use a spoon for soups and 
juicy foods. 

8. Bread should be broken, not cut. In eating large fruits, 
like apples or pears, divide' with a knife, and take in small 
portions, holding the knife by the handle rather than the blade. 

9. Soup is eaten from the side of the spoon, which is filled 
without noisily touching the plate. 

10. Seeds or stones to be rejected should be taken from the 
lips with a spoon, never with the fingers. The mouth should 
not go to the food, but the food to the mouth. 

11. Do not crumble food about your plate, nor in any 
avoidable way soil the table linen. 

12. Do not hang the napkin about the neck like a bib, but 
unfold and lay across the lap in such a manner that it will 
not slide to the floor. Carefully wipe the mouth before speak- 
ing, and as often at other times as may keep the lips per- 
fectly clean of food and drink. At the close of a meal, if at 
home, fold the napkin neatly and place it in the ring. If at a 
hotel or away from home, leave the napkin unfolded by your 
plate. 

13. Do not appear impatient to be served, and ordinarily at 
the home meals wait until all are served before commencing to 
eat. At a public table where waiters are provided, it is proper 
to begin eating as soon as the food is served. This is admissible 
because the wants of other guests are supposed to be similarly 
looked after. . 

14. Never reach across a neighbor's plate for anything. If 
something beyond him is needed, ask to have it passed to you. 

15. Do not tilt your plate or scrape it for the last atom of 
food. 

16. Drink very sparingly, if at all, while eating, and then 
do not pour the liquid down the throat like water turned from 
a pitcher. 

17. Children should not be allowed to use their fingers to 
aid themselves in eating. If their hands are too small or too 



THE ART or DINING. 46 1 

awkward to use a fork, a piece of bread or cracker may be held 
in the left hand to aid in pushing the food upon the fork 
or spoon. 

18. To help one's self to butter or any other food from a 
common dish with one's own knife or spoon is a gross breach 
of table etiquette. 

19. Never use the handkerchief unnecessarily at the table, 
and do not cough or sneeze if avoidable. 

20. It is not considered proper to pick the teeth at table. 
If this becomes absolutely necessary, a napkin should be held 
before the mouth. 

21. When a meal or course is finished, lay the knife and 
fork side by side upon the plate. 

22. Except at a hotel or boarding house, it is not proper to 
leave the table before the rest of the family or guests, without 
asking the hostess to excuse you. 

23. If a guest declines a dish, he need give no reason. " No, 
I thank you," is quite sufficient. The host or hostess should 
not insist upon guests' partaking of particular dishes, nor put 
anything upon their plates which they have declined. 

The Table. — None will deny that the appearance of the 
table affects one's enjoyment of the food upon it. A well-ap- 
pointed table with its cloth, though coarse in texture, perfectly 
clean and neatly laid, its glass and china bright and shining, 
and the silver showing by its glistening surface evidence of 
frequent polishings, gives far more comfort and enjoyment 
than one where little attention is given to neatness, order, 
or taste. In many families, effort is made to secure all these 
important accessories when guests have been invited ; but for 
common use, anything is considered ''good enough for just 
one's own folks." This ought not to be, and mothers who per- 
mit such a course, need not be surprised if their children 
exhibit a lack of self-respect and genuineness as well as awk- 
wardness and neglect of manners. 

The table around which the family meals are taken, ought to 
be at all times the model of what it should be when surrounded 
by guests. As a writer has well said, " There is no silent edu- 



462 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

cator ill the household that has higher rank than the table. 
Surrounded each day by the family who are eager for refresh- 
ment of body and spirit, its impressions sink deep ; and its 
influences for good or ill form no mean part of the warp and 
woof of our lives. Its fresh damask, bright silver, glass, and 
china, give beautiful lessons in neatness, order, and taste ; its 
damask soiled, rumpled, and torn, its silver dingy, its glass 
cloudy, and china nicked, annoy and vex us at first, and then 
instill their lessons of carelessness and disorder. An attrac- 
tive, well-ordered table is an incentive to good manners, and 
being a place where one is incited to linger, it tends to control 
the bad habits of fast eating ; while, on the contrary, an unin- 
viting, disorderly table gives license to bad manners, and en- 
courages the haste which is proverbial among Americans. The 
woman, then, who looks after her table in these particulars, is 
not doing trivial work, for it rests with her to give silently 
these good or bad lessons in manners and morals to her house- 
hold as they surround the daily board." 

A well-appointed table requires very little time and labor. 
No pretense or ostentation is necessary ; neatness and simplic- 
ity are far more pleasing. 

Setting the Table.— Lay a piece of double-faced canton 
flannel underneath the tablecloth. Even coarse napery will 
present a much better appearance with a subcover than if 
spread directly upon the table. It will likewise lessen noise in 
changing courses and the likelihood of injury to the table from 
hot dishes. Spread the tablecloth evenly, without wrinkles, 
and so that the center fold shall be exactly in the middle, 
parallel with the sides of the table. Mats, if used, should be 
placed exactly straight and with regularity. If meat is served, 
spread a large napkin with points toward the center of the 
table at the carver's place, to protect the tablecloth. Place the 
plates upon the table, right side^up, at even distances from each 
other and straight with the cloth and the edge of the table. 
Lay the napkins directly in front or at the right of each plate. 
Place the fork at the left, the knife on the right with the 
edge toward the plate, beyond this the soup spoon and two 



THE ART OF DlNlNC'r. 463 

teaspoons, and at the front of these set the glass, cream glass, 
and individual butter plate if these are used. 

A center piece consisting of a vase of freshly cut flowers, a 
pot of ferns, a jar of small plants in bloom, a dish of well-polished 
red apples, peaches, or other seasonable fruit, will add a touch 
of beauty and attractiveness. If the serving is to be done from 
the table by members of the family, place large spoons near 
dishes to be served, also the proper number and kind of 
separate dishes for the purpose. If fruit is to be served, a 
finger bowl should be placed for each person. If the service 
is by course, the extra dishes, knives, forks, and spoons needed, 
also the finger bowls, water service, and cold foods in reserve 
for a renewed supply or for other courses, should be made 
ready and arranged upon the sideboard. 

The soup ladle should be placed in front of the lady of the 
house, who always serves the soup ; and if meat is served, 
the carving knife and fork must, of course, be placed before the 
carver's place. The necessary dishes for each course should be 
brought on with the food, those for the first course being placed 
upon the table just a moment before dinner is announced. 

The arrangement of all dishes and foods upon the table 
should be uniform, regular, and tasteful, so as to give an or- 
derly appearance to the whole. The "dishing up" and arrang- 
ing of the food are matters of no small importance, as a dull 
appetite will often be sharpened at the sight of a daintily 
arranged dish, while the keenest one may have its edge dulled 
by the appearance of a shapeless mass piled up with no regard 
to looks. Even the simplest food is capable of looking its best, 
and the greatest care should be taken to have all dishes served 
neatly and tastefully. 

The table should not be set for breakfast the night before 
nor kept so from one meal to another, unless carefully covered 
with a cloth thick enough to prevent the dust from accumulat- 
ing upon the dishes. The plates and glasses should then be 
placed bottom-side up and turned just before mealtime. No 
food of any kind should ever be allowed to remain uncovered 
upon the table from one meal to another. The cloth for cover- 



464 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

ing- the table should be carefully shaken each time before 
using, and always used the same side up until washed. 

Plates and individual meat dishes should be warmed, espe- 
cially in winter ; but the greatest care should be taken that no 
dish becomes hot, as that not only makes it troublesome to 
handle, but is ruinous to the dishes. 

The Service of Meals. — There are few invariable rules 
for either table-setting or service. We will offer a few sug- 
gestions upon this point, though doubtless other ways are 
equally good. A capital idea for the ordinary home meal, 
when no servant is kept, especially if in the family there are 
older children, is to make different members of the family 
responsible for the proper service of some dish or course. 
The fruit, which should be the first course at breakfast, may 
be prepared and placed upon fruit plates with the proper uten- 
sils for eating — napkins and finger bowls at each place before 
the meal is announced. If apples or bananas are served, a 
cracker should be placed upon each plate to be eaten in con- 
nection with the fruit. Oranges and grapes are, however, to 
be preferred when obtainable ; the former may be prepared 
as directed on page 180. The hot foods may be dished, and 
the dishes placed on a side table in a hain marie, the hot water 
in which should be as deep as the food within the dishes. 
The foods will thus be in readiness, and will keep much better 
than if placed upon the table at the beginning of the meal. 
When the fruit is eaten, some member of the family may 
remove the fruit plates, and bring the hot grains, toasts, and 
other foods, placing them, together with the necessary indi- 
vidual dishes, before those who have their serving in charge. 
One member may be selected to pass the bread, another to 
dish the sauce, etc. ; and thus each child, whether boy or girl 
— even those quite young — may contribute to the service, 
and none be overburdened, while at the same time it will be a 
means of teaching a due regard for the comfort and enjoy- 
ment of others. 

If the meal is dinner, usually consisting of three courses, 
after the soup has been eaten, it may be the duty of some 



THE ART OF DINING. 465 

member of the family to remove the soup plates and place the 
vegetables, y^rains, and meats if any are to served, before those 
chosen to serve them. At the close of this course, another 
may remove the dishes and food, crumb the cloth, and place 
the dessert, with the proper dishes for serving, before the lady 
of the house or her oldest daughter, one of whom usually 
serves it. 

If a servant is employed, the following is an excellent plan 
of service : The soup plates or bowls should be placed hot 
upon the table, with the tureen of soup before the lady of the 
house, and the glasses filled before the dinner is announced. 

Grace having been said, the servant removes the cover of 
the soup tureen, and standing at the left of the lady, takes up 
with her left hand a soup plate, which she changes to the palm 
of her right hand and holds at the edge of the soup tureen 
until the lady has filled it, then carries it, still holding it upon 
the palm of the hand, and places it before the head of the 
table. In the same manner all are served to soup. If bowls 
instead of plates are used, a small silver or lacquered tray may 
be used on which to carry the bowl. While the soup is being 
eaten, the servant goes to the kitchen and brings in the hot 
dishes and foods for the next course, and places them upon the 
side table. When the soup has been finished, beginning with 
the one who sits at the head of the table, the servant places 
before each person in turn a hot dinner plate, at the same time 
removing his soup plate to the sideboard or pantry. After 
changing all the plates, she removes the soup tureen, and if 
meat is to be served, places that before the carver with the 
individual plates, which, when he has placed a portion thereon, 
she serves to each in turn ; then she takes the potato and 
other vegetables upon her tray, and serves them, going to 
the left of each person when passing them a dish, but placing 
individual dishes at the right ; next she passes the bread, refills 
the glasses, taking each one separately to the sideboard, and 
then serves the grains. 

When every one has finished the course, she begins the 
clearing of the table by first removing all large dishes of food ; 



466 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

after that the plates and all soiled dishes, mats, and all table 
furniture except the glasses, napkin rings, and center-pieces. 
Lastly she removes all crumbs with a brush or napkin. When 
done, she places in front of each person a plate with a doily 
and finger bowl upon it, and then brings the dessert and 
dessert dishes, placing them before the lady of the house, and 
passes these for her as in the other courses. If the des- 
sert is pudding, a spoon or fork should be placed on the plate 
at one side of the finger bowl. If the dessert is fruit, a fruit 
napkin may be used in place of the doily, the real purpose of 
which is to prevent the bowl from sliding about the plate in 
moving it. A fork and silver knife, or knife and spoon as the 
fruit may require, should be served with it. 

General Suggestions for Waiters. — In serving a dish 
from which people are expected to help themselves, always go 
to the left side. 

Soup, food in individual dishes, clean plates, and finger 
bowls should be set down before people at their right hand. 

When removing soiled dishes after a course, always ex- 
change them for clean ones, remembering that the only time 
when it is allowable to leave the table without plates is when 
it is being cleared for the dessert. 

In serving grains either dish them in small dishes before 
serving or pass clean saucers at the same time for each to help 
himself, and in all cases see that each person is served to 
cream, sugar, and a teaspoon, with grains. 

Pass the bread two or three times during each meal, and 
keep careful watch that all are well supplied. 

Pour hot milk and all beverages on the side table ; fill only 
three fourths full, and serve the same as anything else in 
individual dishes, placing the glass at each person's right hand. 

Waiters should be noiseless and prompt, and neatly attired 
in dress suitable to their occupation. 

Suggestions Concerning Dinner Parties. — Much of the 
success of a dinner party depends upon the guests selected ; 
and the first point for consideration by the lady who decides 
upon entertaining her friends thus, should be the congeni- 



THE ART OF DINING. 467 

lity of those whom she desires to invite, remembering that 
after the first greetings the guests see very little of their 
hostess, and consequently their enjoyment must largely depend 
upon each other. It is customary to issue invitations in the 
name of the host and hostess, from five to ten days in advance 
of the occasion. Printed or written invitations may be used. 
The following is a proper form : — 

Mr. and Mrs. George Brown 
request the pleasure 

of 

Mr. and Mrs. Henry Clark's company 

at dinner 

December ^th, at four o'clock. 

24 Maple Avenue. 

If the dinner is given in especial honor to some stranger, a 
second card is inclosed on which is written : — 

To meet 

Mrs. Harold Brooks of Philadelphia. 

Invitations to a dinner should be promptly accepted or de- 
clined, and if accepted, the engagement should on no account 
be lightly broken. 

Unless one has a large establishment, and is very sure of 
good service, the bill of fare selected should not be an elaborate 
one, and the choice of dishes should be confined to those which 
one is used to preparing, and which in cost will not exceed 
one's means. It is the quality of the dinner which pleases, and 
not the multiplicity of dishes. Small dinners for not less than 
six or more than ten guests are always the most pleasant, and 
for those of moderate means or those unaccustomed to dinner- 
giving are by far the most suitable. 

The arrangement and adornment of the table afford an 
opportunity for the display of much artistic taste and skill. 
An expensive outlay is by no means necessary, as highly 
pleasing effects may be produced by the addition of a few 
choice, well-arranged flowers or blossoming plants to a table 



468 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

already well laid with spotless linen, bright silver, and clean 
glass and china ware. A profusion of ornament should be 
avoided, large pieces of plate, and high, elaborate designs of 
flowers or fruit should not be used, as they obstruct the inter- 
course of the guests. 

A center piece of flowers, with a small bouquet tied with 
ribbon for each guest, is quite sufficient. Low dishes filled 
with violets or pansies ; a basket filled with oranges, mingled 
with orange leaves and blossoms ; bowls of ferns and roses ; a 
block of ice wreathed in ferns, with an outer circle of water 
lilies ; dishes of vari-colored grapes resting amid the bright 
leaves of the foliage plant, are some of many pleasing designs 
which may be employed for the adornment of the dinner table. 
The amount of space occupied with decorations must depend 
upon the style of service employed. If no calculation need be 
made for placing the different dishes composing the dinner, a 
strip of colored plush or satin bordered with ivy, smilax, or 
some trailing vine, is quite frequently used for the decoration 
of a long table. 

A very pleasing custom consists in selecting some especial 
color for the decorations with which the table napery, dishes, 
and even the food to be served shall accord ; as, for example, a 
•' pink" dinner, with roses as the chief flower, strawberries, pink 
lemonade, and other pink attractions ; or a " yellow" luncheon, 
served on napery etched with yellow, with vases of goldenrod 
for center pieces, and dainty bouquets of the same tied with 
yellow ribbon at each plate, while yellow tapers in golden 
candlesticks cast a mellow light over all, during the serving of 
a bill of fare which might include peaches and cream, oranges, 
pumpkin pie, and other yellow comestibles. 

The menu cards afford much opportunity for adding attrac- 
tiveness to a company dinner. If one possesses artistic skill, 
a floral decoration or a tiny sketch, with an appropriate quota- 
tion, the guest's name, and date of the dinner, make of the 
cards very pleasing souvenirs. A proper quotation put after 
each dish is much in vogue as a means of promoting conversa- 
tion. The quotations are best selected from one author. 



THE ART OF DINING. 469 

There are no absolute rules for the service of company din- 
ners, much depending upon social conditions and established 
customs. Two modes are in general use, — placing the dishes 
upon the table to be dished by the host and hostess, and plac- 
ing all food upon- the side table to be dished and served by a 
waiter. When the latter method is used, it is quite customary 
to place the plates of soup upon the table before dinner is 
announced. As many knives, forks, and spoons as will be 
needed for the courses may be placed beside each plate, or 
they may be brought in with the course, as preferred. Clean 
plates are necessary for every course. The manner of serving 
is essentiall}^ like that already described. 

Care should be taken to have the dining room at an 
agreeable temperature, neither too warm nor too cold. 

At large dinner parties, each gentleman, as he enters, 
receives a card upon which is written the name of the lady he 
is to take in to dinner, to whom the hostess at once presents 
him. When dinner is announced, the host leads the way with 
the oldest or most distinguished lady or the one to whom the 
dinner is given, while the hostess follows last, with the most 
honored gentleman. The host places the lady whom he es- 
corts on his right. If the number is small, the host indicates 
the places the guests should occupy as they enter the room ; 
if the party is large, the menu card at each plate bears the 
name of the guest for whom it is designed. The lady es- 
corted by the host should be the first one served. 

Soup is always taken and tasted, whether liked or not ; 
after the first course, it is proper to accept or refuse a dish, 
as preferred. 

No well-bred hostess ever apologizes for the food upon her 
table or urges anything upon her guests when once declined. 
No orders should be given to servants during the meal ; 
everything that will contribute to the proper serving of the 
dinner should be arranged beforehand, and all necessary 
instructions given. 

At the close of the dinner, the hostess gives the sign for 
retiriner. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



A MEAL — what is it ? Just enough of food 

To renovate and well refresh the frame, 

So that with spirits lightened, and with strength renewed, 

We turn with willingness to work again. — Se/. 

Do not bring disagreeable things to the table in your conversation any more 
than you would in j'our dishes. — Sl'/. 

Courtesy in the mistress of the house consists in feeding conversation ; never in 
usurping it. — Jlfrne. SwetcJiine. 

Good humor and good health follow a good meal ; and by a good meal we 
mean anything, however simple, well dressed in its way. — Smiles. 

Unquiet meals make ill digestion. — Shakespeare. 

Eat slowly and do not season your food with care. — Sel. 

To rise from the table able to eat a little more is a proverbially good rule for 
every one. There is nothing more idiotic than forcing down a few mouthfuls, 
because they happen to remain on one's plate after hmiger is satisfied, and because 
they may be " wasted " if left. It is the most serious waste to overtax the stomach 
with even half an ounce more than it can take care of. — Sel. 

I PRAY you, O excellent wife ! cumber not yourself and me to get a curiously 
rich dinner for this man and woman who have just alighted at our gate . . . These 
things, if they are desirous of them, they can get for a few shillings at any vil- 
lage inn ; but rather let that stranger see, if he will, in your looks, accents, and 
behavior, your heart and earnestness, your thought and will, that which he cannot 
buy at any price in any city, and which he may travel miles and dine sparely and 
sleep hardly to behold. — Emerson. 



[470] 





^O no other department of domestic work perhaps is so 
little thought given or so little science applied as to 
the routine work of clearing the table and washing 
"^'' the dishes after mealtime. Any way to accomplish 
the object, seems to be the motto in very many households. 
But even for these prosaic tasks there is a best way, which, 
if employed, ma)' make of an otherwise irksome service a really 
pleasurable one. 

Clearing; the Table. — First of all, put back the chairs, and 
brush up the crumbs from the floor, then collect all untouched 
foods and store them away in clean dishes ; next gather the 
siK'er, place it handles upward in pitchers or other deep dishes, 
and pour hot water over it. For gathering the silver a com- 
partment tray in which knives, forks, and spoons may be placed 
separately is important. Many of the scratches and m.arks on 
their silver ware, which housekeepers deplore, come from the 
careless handling together of forks, knives, and spoons. Now 
in a deep basin upon a tray, collect all the refuse and partly 
eaten foods, carefully emptying cups, glasses, finger bowls, etc., 
and scraping all dishes which contained food as clean as possi- 

[471] 



4/2 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

ble ;.for no crumbs or particles of food should be introduced 
into the dishwater. Pile the jdishes as fast as cleaned upon a 
second tray in readiness for washing. It saves much liability 
of breakage in transferring from the dining room to the kitchen, 
if each kind of soiled dishes is packed by itself. 

Wipe carefully, if not needing to be washed, and replenish 
all salts, granola cups, and sugar bowls before putting away. 
Gather the soiled napkins for the laundry, and put those clean 
enough to be used again in their proper places. Especial care 
must be taken, however, so to designate those reserved for 
future use that each shall receive the same again, as nothing 
is more disgusting to a sensitive person than to be tendered a 
napkin which has been used by some one else. Some form of 
napkin holder should be considered an essential part of the 
table furnishing. If rings cannot be afforded, ordinary clothes 
pins, gilded and decorated with a bit of ribbon, make very 
pretty substitutes. 

Brush the tablecloth, fold in its creases, also the sub-cover 
of canton flannel, and lay both away until again needed. 

Washing the Dishes. — Plenty of hot water and clean 
towels are the essential requisites for expeditious and thorough 
dish-washing. A few drops of crude ammonia added to the 
water will soften it and add to the luster of the silver and 
china. Soap may be used or not according to circumstances ; 
all greasy dishes require a good strong suds. There should 
also be provided two dish drainers or trays, unless there is a 
stationary sink with tray on which to drain the dishes. For 
washing glassware and fine china, papier-inacJie tubs are 
preferable to anything else, as they are less liable to occasion 
breakage of the ware. If many dishes are to be washed, fre- 
quent changes of water will be necessary as the first becomes 
either cold or dirty. Perfectly sweet, clean dishes are not 
evolved from dirty dishwater. The usual order given for the 
washing of dishes is, glasses, silver, fine china, cups, saucers, 
pitchers, plates and other dishes. This is, however, based upon 
the supposition that cups and saucers are used for beverages, 
and plates are soiled by the use of various greasy foods ; but 



AFTER MEALTIML;. 473 

in families where tea and coffee and animal foods are dispensed 
with, and saucers are used for grains with cream dressing, 
the plates are often cleaner than the saucers and should be 
washed first. 

The general rule to be followed is always to wash the 
dishes least soiled first, and all of one kind together. The 
latter item is specially important, since much of the nicking of 
dishes and breaking of handles from cups, covers, and pitchers 
is the result of piling dishes promiscuously together while 
washing. 

It is quite as easy to finish washing one kind before begin- 
ning on another as to do it in any less safe and systematic way, 
and if wiped in the same order, it does away with the need of 
sorting when putting the dishes away. 

If for any reason the dishes must wait for a time before 
being washed, the best plan is to pack them carefully into 
large pans, cover with warm water, and let them soak. When 
ready to wash them, prepare hot suds and clear water for rins- 
ing in additional pans. Do not use too hot water, as a high 
temperature will break glass and "check" the enamel of ordi- 
nary ware. The law of expansion holds good with both china 
and glassware, and all glass and glazed wares should be dipped 
into hot water in such a manner that all its surfaces may 
receive the heat and expand together. 

All dishes used for milk should be first thoroughly rinsed in 
cold water before being washed in hot water or suds. 

Be sure that the inside of all cups and pitchers is thor- 
oughly clean. It is a good plan to have a mop made by fasten- 
ing finger-lengths of coarse cotton twine to a suitable handle, 
for washing the inside of pitchers. 

In cleaning forks, spoons, or cups, which have been em- 
ployed in beating or eating eggs, rinse them in cold water 
before putting them into hot suds, as hot water cooks the egg 
and causes it to adhere. Common table salt is said to be ex- 
cellent for removing the egg tarnish from silver. Clean Dover 
egg beaters by beating a dish of cold water, or by holding 
under a stream of cold water from the faucet, then carefully 



474 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

rinse and wipe perfectly dry. Do not put the upper part of 
the beater into hot water, as it will remove the oil from the 
wheels so that they will not work easily. 

Grain-boilers and mush-kettles should be allowed to cool, 
then filled with cold water and allowed to soak during the 
meal hour, when they can be easily cleaned. 

Tin dishes should be washed with hot suds as soon as 
possible after using. 

For cleaning iron pots, use soft water and soap or washing- 
soda with a wire dishcloth or kettle scraper. If the food ad- 
heres to the sides, fill with cold water and soak. 
Kettles and all dishes placed over a fire should be 
cleaned on the outside as well as the inside. Tp re- 
move the soot, rub first with pieces of dry paper and 
afterward with damp paper ; then wash with hot suds 
and a cloth. Kettles and saucepans burned on the 
inside may be cleaned by putting a little cold water 
and ashes in them and allowing them to soak on the 
range until the water is warm. Porcelain-lined and 
granite-ware utensils stained from food burning on, 
may be cleaned after soaking for a time in a solution 
of sal soda, which may be prepared by pouring boil- 
ing water over the soda in the proportion of two 
pints of water to one pound of sal soda, and stirring 
Wire until dissolved. It may be prepared in quantity and 

Dishcloth. , . . ., 11 

stored m a stone jar until needed. 

Wash wooden ware and bread boards with cold water and 
sand soap. In scraping dough from the bread board, always 
scrape with the grain of the wood and be careful not to roughen 
the surface. 

Steel knives and forks with ivory or wooden handles should 
not be put into dishwater. Hot water will expand the steel and 
cause the handles to crack. Wash them thoroughly with the 
dishcloth, scour with bath brick, and wipe dry. 

All tin and iron dishes should be thoroughly dried before 
putting away, to prevent rusting. 



AFTER MEALTIME. 475 

If draining is considered preferable to wiping dishes, a good 
plan, if one has not a patent dish drainer, is to fold an old 
tablecloth in several thicknesses and spread upon the table. 
Wash the dishes carefully and rinse in hot water. Place a cup 
or bowl bottom upward, lay a plate on each side, then one be- 
tween and above them, with two more on the outside, and so 
on, not permitting them to touch more than necessary. 

Dishcloths and Towels. — No dishes or utensils can be 
well cared for without good, clean dishcloths and towels, and 
plenty of them. An excellent dishcloth may be either knit or 
crocheted in some solid stitch of coarse cotton yarn. Ten or 
twelve inches square is a good size. Several thicknesses 
of cheese-cloth basted together make good dishcloths, as do 
also pieces of old knitted garments and Turkish toweling. If 
a dish mop is preferred, it may be made as follows : Cut a 
groove an inch from the end of a stick about a foot in length 
and of suitable shape for a handle ; cut a ball of coarse twine 
into nine-inch lengths, and lay around the stick with the middle 
of the strands against the groove ; wind a fine wire or cord 
around the twine to fasten it in the groove ; then shake down 
the twine, so it will lie all one way like a mop, and fasten it to 
the handle by tying a second cord around it on the outside. 

Towels for drying dishes should be of three different grades, 
— fine ones without lint for glass, silver, and fine china ; coarser 
ones for the ordinary table ware, and still another quality for 
pans, kettles, and other kitchen ware. The right size is a yard 
in length and half as wide, with the ends hemmed. As to 
material, fine checked linen is usually employed for glass and 
silver towels, and crash for ordinary dishes, for iron and tin- 
ware towels which have become somewhat worn, or a coarse 
bag opened and hemmed, may be used. Old, half-worn table- 
cloths may be cut into excellent dish towels. 

It is of the greatest importance that all dishcloths, mops, 
and towels be kept perfectly sweet and clean. Greasy dish- 
cloths and sour towels are neither neat nor wholesome and 
are a most fertile source of germs, often breeding disease 



4/6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

and death. After each dish washing, the dishcloth, towels, 
and mops should be thoroughly washed in hot water with 
plenty of soap, well rinsed and hung up to dry either upon a 
line out of doors or a rack made for the purpose near the 
kitchen range. If care is always taken to clean the dishes as 
much as possible before washing and to change the suds as 
often as they become dirty, the towels will not be hard to 
keep clean and sweet-smelling. Those used during the week 
should go into the wash as regularly as other household articles. 
Dish towels are also much better for being ironed. It gives 
them a " surface " which facilitates the drying operation. 

The Care of Silver, Glass, Etc. — If silver is well washed 
in hot water containing a few drops of ammonia, and carefully 
dried with a fine, soft towel, it will keep bright for a long time 
without other cleaning. If special cleaning is necessary, try 
the following : Place the silver in a pan of hot water, then 
with a soft cloth, soaped and sprinkled with powdered borax, 
scour the silver well ; afterward rinse in clear cold water, and 
dry with a clean cloth. If a more thorough cleaning is needed, 
apply moistened Spanish whiting with a silver brush and soft 
flannel, afterward polishing with dry whiting and chamois skin. 
Frequent scouring should be avoided by careful washing, as 
too much rubbing wears out plated ware and dulls the best of 
silver. Silver ware and plate which is not in ordinary use can 
be kept from tarnishing by varnishing with collodion, a solu- 
tion of gun-cotton in ether. The articles should be carefully 
brushed in this colorless vanish with an elastic brush, taking 
care that the entire surface is covered. The film of collodion 
will protect the underlying metal from the action of the sul- 
phurous vapors to which is due the blackening of silver. 

Tinware which has become blackened may be made to look 
bright and shining again by rubbing with a damp cloth dipped 
in sal soda. Afterward wipe dry. Sand soap or sapolio may 
be used for the same purpose. 

Cut-glass ware which has become in any way blurred or 
tarnished can be restored by polishing it with a soft piece of 
newspaper. First rub well with a piece slightly moistened and 



AFTER MEALTIME. 477 

afterward repeat the process with dr-y paper. Rubbing- with a 
soft brush dipi^cd in fine, soft whiting is another method often 
employed for the same purpose. Cut-glass water-bottles dim 
or stained on the inside are best cleaned by rinsing with dilute 
muriatic acid, then carefully rinsing- several times in clear cold 
water to remove all trace of the acid, which is a poison. 

All fine china should be handled carefully in washing and 
drying. There will be less danger of breakage if the china is 
gradually heated by allowing it to stand in a pan of warm 
water before being put into hot water. The same is true of all 
table ware, and is of especial importance in cold weather. 

Brass faucets and other brass or copper articles may be 
cleaned by rubbing with whiting wet with aqua ammonia. 

Yellowed ivory handles may be restored to their original 
whiteness by rubbing with sandpaper and emery ; mineral 
soap or pumice stone may be used for the same purpose. Nice 
table cutlery packed away for a season may be kept from 
rusting by covering the metal portion with a thin coating of 
paraffine. Rust may be removed from steel by scouring with 
emery and oil ; but if there is much corrosion, some weak muri- 
atic acid will be needed. This, however, will take some of 
the metal with the rust, and must be washed off quickly. 

Trays and japanned goods should never have boiling water 
poured over them, as it will make the varnish crack and peel. 
If a tray is badly soiled, wet with a sponge moistened in warm 
water and soap, and rub with a dry cloth ; if it looks smeary, 
dust on a little flour and rub again. Marks and scratches may 
sometimes be removed by rubbing with a flannel cloth dipped 
in sweet oil. 

Care of the Table Linen. — Much of the attractiveness of 
the table depends upon the linen used ; if this is not well cared 
for, the finest table ware cannot make up for the defect. 

Stains upon table linen made by acids and vinegar may be 
removed by simply washing in clear water ; berry stains arc 
easily taken out by pouring boiling water over them ; peach 
stains are best removed by soaking for some time in cold 
water and then washing \\ith soap before allowing warm water 



478 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

to touch them. Chlorine water or a solution of chloride of lime 
will remove fruit stains, and vegetable colors. Coffee stains 
rubbed with a mixture of warm water and the yolk of egg, 
are said to disappear when the mixture is washed off with 
clean warm water. Sour buttermilk well rubbed into the 
material, dried in, and afterward washed out in several waters, 
is said to be effectual in removing tea stains. All stains 
should be removed as soon as possible after being made, and 
always before putting the linen into the wash. 

In washing table linen, housekeepers should remember 
that hard rubbing is the worst wear which it can receive. 
If soaked over night, a gentle squeezing will usually be quite 
sufficient to remove all soil, or if a little borax (a handful to ten 
gallons of water) or household ammonia in the proportion of 
two tablespoonfuls to a pail of water be added, two or three 
hours' soaking will suffice. Care should also be taken in hang- 
ing and fastening properly upon the line. Fold the cloth over 
the line six or eight inches at least, and in such a manner as to 
keep the thread straight, and fasten with three or more clothes 
pins. Table linen is often sadly frayed at the corners by being 
ginned so that all strain comes upon the corners, and if left 
to whip in the wind, is soon ruined. Napkins in summer are 
much nicer if dried upon the grass. Only the merest trifle of 
starch, if any, should be used for table linen. 

Table linen should be taken from the line while still damp, 
folded evenly lengthwise with the selvage together, then 
folded lengthwise again, rolled tight, and wrapped in damp 
towels so that the outside will not become dry, and ironed 
the same day. The irons should be heavy and as hot as pos- 
sible without danger of scorching, and the board should be 
well padded with several thicknesses of flannel. Iron the linen 
in single folds, keeping a damp cloth over portions which will 
not be immediately reached. When the entire surface has 
been ironed, fold evenly lengthwise and with the selvage edges 
toward the ironer, again go over the entire upper side ; then 
fold with the just completed portion inside, iron again, and so 
continue until the whole is ironed and folded. Both napkins 



AFTER MEALTIME. 479 

and tablecloths arc ironed in this way. They should be thor- 
oughly dried with the iron and well aired before being laid 
away, in order to bring out the patterns well and to give 
them the desirable glossy finish. 

Colored tabic linen should be washed in tepid water contain- 
ing a little powdered borax, which serves to set the color. 
Very little, if any, soap should be used. Rinse in tepid water 
containing a small quantity of boiled starch ; dry in the shade, 
and iron while yet damp. 

Table linen should be carefully darned at once when it be- 
gins to wear and become thin, and may thus be preserved for a 
long time. When new, it should be washed before being 
made up, and the threads raveled or drawn, so as to make 
the ends exactly straight. Napkins should be washed before 
being cut apart. When not required for regular use, the linen 
should be folded loosely, and laid away without ironing in 
some place where it will not be subjected to pressure. When 
needed, it can be quickly dampened and ironed. 

The Garbage. — What to do with the waste accumulating 
from preparation of foods is a question of no small importance. 
The too frequent disposition of such material is to dump it into 
a waste-barrel or garbage box near the back door, to await the 
rounds of the scavenger. Unless more than ordinary precau- 
tions in regard to cleanliness are observed, such a proceeding 
is fraught with great danger. The bits of moist food, scraps of 
meat, vegetables, and other refuse, very quickly set up a fer- 
mentative process, which, under the sun's rays, soon breeds mi- 
asm and germs ; especially is this true if the receptacle into 
which the garbage is thrown is not carefully cleaned after 
each emptying. 

A foul-smelling waste-barrel ought never to be permitted 
under any circumstances. The best plan is to burn all leav- 
ings and table refuse as fast as made, which may be done 
without smell or smoke by opening all«the back drafts of the 
kitchen range, and placing them on the hot coals to dry and 
burn. Some housekeepers keep in one end of the sink a wire 
dish drainer into which all fruit and vegetable parings are put. 



48o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

If wet, the water quickly drains from them, and they are ready 
to be put into the stove, where a very little fire soon reduces 
them to ashes. All waste products which cannot-well be 
burned, may be buried at a distance from the house, but not 
too much in one spot, and the earth should be carefully cov- 
ered over afterward. Under no circumstances should it be 
scattered about on the surface of the ground near the back 
door, as heedless people are apt to do. 

If the table refuse must be saved and fed to animals, it 
should be carefully sorted, kept free from all dishwater, sour 
milk, etc., and used as promptly as possible. It is a good 
plan to have two tightly covered waste pails of heavy tin to 
be used on alternate days. When one is emptied, it may be 
thoroughly cleansed and left to purify in the air and sunshine 
while the other is in use. Any receptacle for waste should 
be entirely emptied and thoroughly disinfected each day with 
boiling suds and an old broom. This is especially imperative 
if the refuse is to be used as food for cows, since the quality 
of the milk is more or less affected by that of the food. 



TABLE TOPICS. 

A WOMAN cannot work at dressmaking, tailoring, or any other sedentary employ- 
ment, ten hours a day, year in and out, without enfeebling her constitution, impairing 
her eyesight, and bringing on a complication of complaints ; but she can sweep, 
cook, wash, and do the duties of a well-ordered house, with modern arrangements, 
and grow healthier every year. The times in New England when all women did 
housework a part of every day, were the times when all women were healthy. — 
Harriet Beecher Stowe. 

The best ways are commonly the easiest ways and those that give most comfort 
to the household. Know hozu is a great labor-saving invention, on which there is no 
patent. — ScL 

Who sweeps a room as for God's law 

jNIakA that and Ih' action fine. — George Herbert. 








^c^prW^HAT to get for the family meals is frequently a 
-^ii' F\ 7 most perplexing problem, especially when one re- 
y members the many important points that should 

L,. e^to^H enter into the arrangement of the daily bill of fare. 
A well-arranged menu should be composed of articles which 
supply the requisite amount of food elements for proper nutri- 
tion, palatably prepared. These should be adapted to the 
season and also to the family purse. There should be an 
agreeable and pleasing change from day to day, with never 
too great variety at one meal, and no incongruous association 
of foods that do not harmonize, upon the same bill of fare. 
The amount of time and strength available for the prepara- 
tion of the meal must also receive consideration. The prob- 
lem would be easier of solution could one select her menu 
wholly from fresh material each time ; but in most households 
the odds and ends and "left-over" foods must be utilized, and 
if possible compounded into dishes that will not have the savor 
of yesterday's breakfast or dinner. 

The making of a bill of fare offers opportunity for thought 
and study under all circumstances ; but it is often particularly 
31 [481:1 



4?:: SCIENXE IN THE KITCHEN. 

difficult for the housewife long accustomed to the use of foods 
of a different character, to make up a menu of h\i:^ienic dishes 
properly adapted to all requirements. For such of our readers 
as need aid in this direction. \ve give in this chapter bills of 
fare for fifty-two weeks' breakfasts and dinners. Not that we 
presume to have arranged a model dietary which every one 
can adopt.— individual preferences, resources, and various other 
conditions would preclude that, — but we have endeavored to 
prepare a list of menus suitable for use should circumstances 
admit, and which we trust may be found helpfully suggestive 
of good, hygienic living. 

\\'e have given meats no place upon these bills of fare, as 
we wished particularly to illustrate how good, substantial 
menus of appetizing variety can be provided without their 
use ; but such of our readers as desire this class of foods will 
have no difficult)- in supplementing the bills we have arranged 
by adding such meats as accord with their tastes and purses, 
while our chapter on Meats will give them all needed informa- 
tion as to their preparation. 

In arranging the bills of fare it has been presupposed that 
the housewife has provided herself with at least a moderate al- 
lowance of canned or dried vegetables and fruits during their 
season, for use throughout the year. Effort has also been 
made to suggest an ample variety of seasonable and whole- 
some articles and to make provision for any probable let't- 
over foods ; and to illustrate how by planning and thinking 
beforehand the same material may be used to form the base 
of two different dishes for successive da\s. enough of which 
for both may often be cooked at the same time, thus econo- 
mizing in time and fuel. 

No particular year has been taken, as we desired the menus 
to be adapted to all years, and as no dates could be given, we 
have taken even weeks, ending each with a Sabbath menu, 
beginning with the first month of the year. 

A third meal, if desired, whether it be luncheon or supper, 
should, for health's sake, be so simple in character that we 
have not deemed it necessary to give bills of fare. Breads, 



A year's breakfasts axd dinners. 483 

fruits, and grains, with milk, cream, and some simple relish, 
tastefully served, offer ample provision for a healthful and 
nourishing repast. 

No mention has been made of beverages uj^on the bills of 
fare. If any are used, hot milk or caramel coffee are to be pre- 
ferred. Cooked fruit, either fresh, dried, or canned, is desir- 
able for every meal, but the kind — as also of the fresh fruit 
upon the breakfast bill — may be arranged according to indi- 
vidual preferences and resources. The use of cream, sugar, 
and other accessories should be suited to circumstances. 

It is intended that croutons be served with the soups, and 
in arranging the variety of breads, an effort has been made to 
provide one of harder texture for use with grains and other 
soft foods. The wafers mentioned are the whole-wheat and 
gluten wafers manufactured by the Sanitarium Food Co., which 
by many families are considered more convenient for general 
use as a hard bread than the crisps, sticks, etc., which upon 
some of the menus are designed for the same purpose. 

Less variety may be used, and changes made to suit the 
taste and circumstances of those providing and partaking of 
the meals ; but whatever is subtracted should still leave upon 
the bill of fare the more nutritious articles, like grains, whole- 
wheat bread, and other foods rich in nerve and muscle form- 
ing elements. 

Whether the housewife follows the bills of fare given with 
such modifications as are best suited to the needs of her house- 
hold, or provides some of her own choosing, she will find it a 
great saving of vexation and trouble to make them out for 
several days or a week ahead, at one time, rather than from 
day to day or from meal to meal. She can then plan her 
work and her resources so as the more nearly to make " both 
ends meet," and can provide a more varied fare, while if 
changes are needed, they can be easily made by substituting 
one article for another, as circumstances demand. 

In the arrangement of her menus she will find it well to 
select first the grain and breads to be used, since being among 
the most nutritious of all foods, they may well form the chief 



4.^4 



SCI EN OK IN lllK KirCHFN. 



and staple lood, around ^vhich all other articles upon the bill 
of fare are i^rouped. If the grain chosen be rice, farina, or 
one lari^ely composoil o\' starch, the remainder of the menu 
should include some UhhIs rich in nitroi;"enous elements, such 
as macaroni, whole-wheat or C'iraham breads, the legumes, 
eggs, etc. If the choice o\ grviin be one containing a high 
percentage oi' nitrogenous material, less of this element will 
be required in the accompanying foods. As ai\ aid in deter- 
mining the nutritive value of an}- gi\en food substance, the 
following table, presenting the results of the chemical analysis 
of the more common articles used as food, which we have com- 
piled from the most recent scientific authorities, will be found 
helpful : — 

TABLK SHOWING. THK NUTRITIVE VAl IKS OF COMMON 
KOOn SUBSTANCES. 



RHn> SUBSTANXKS. 



Gkains. 
Wheat, Toland 

Mich. White 

•• Diehle ... 

Jaiv»nese 

Kye. Winter. 

German 

Barley 

So, Knssian 

Oats. 

Corn, Flint 

Pent 

Sweet 

Kice 

Millet 

Buckwheat 

Iceland Moss 



Flour. 



Graham 

Wheat 

Rve 

Barlev 

Oat 

Corn 

Buckwheat . 

Bean 

Pea 

Banana 

Arrowrvwt. . 



Brkai>s, 

Barlev 

Whole Wheat 



>o-4 
'3.4 
1J.6 
n.S 
1J.7 
i6. 



T-7 

13-5 
I0.3 
11.4 
14.9 



J3.4 

>3- 



J 6. 5 



J4- 
10.5 



9-4 
11.4 
6.7 



»»-7 
1 1. 1 

11.4 

tl 
23.3 
25.3 

B.9 



61.9 
7»- 

78.2 

65.1 

74.6 

7S. 

66.7 

70.0 

5S-3 
^S.^ 
6S.5 
62,7 

rs.5 

6S.a 
7I.S 
5f>-3 



09,9 
75-4 
69.7 
7i.a 
67,2 
69.5 
74-3 
S9-4 
57.2 
77-9 



<H-4 
60. 













^ 






c * 




St 

3 
in 

« 

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< 

k. 






V5 




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is 






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1-9 




3.9 






1-3 








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1.8 


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6.3 

5- a 






J.D 








1.5 


2.9 


4- 






1.9 








2-3 


1-5 


6.9 
5- 3 






3.4 








B."t> 
2.4 


3.8 


6.5 
5-5 






7.S 








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10.0 


5.a 






4.!:: 








1-4 


1.7 


7-i 






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7.8 






7-S 








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6.1 






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ii.S 






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86.8 

87. S 

84. 7 
89.S 



86. 

86.7 

84.9 

84.4 

S3.7 

86.9 

85.7 

8>;.6 



85.1 
82.3 

84.7 
84-7 



87.3 

83. 5 
Sa. 



St. 7 



1 Chiefly sugar iwd starch. 



A ^l•;Al<'s i!ki;AKi'Asrs and dinnkks. 



4«5 



I'OOI) SlIHSTANCKS. 



VVliiir. 



Swedish Speisc Itiod. 
/wieljiii.U. Wliilc... 

kyc 

M.icriroiii 

M:iiiiiii 



Kki'sH Fi<i;ns. 



Apple 

Aijricot. . . . 
Bl:ickl)crry . 
liaiiuiia . . . . 

Cliciry 

Oaiilicriy . . 

Currant 

(jrupe 

Oooscberry . 

Pear 

I'niiic 

Plum 

I' 



Kiispljcrry 

Stniwlicrry 

Whortleberry 

|)i<ri'.i) Kktit^ 



I'ear . . . 
Apple .. 
Cncrry. 
Kaisin. . 

FiK 

Date. , . 



Nuts. 

C'hestiiiit 

Walnut 

Ilazeliiut 

Sweet Almond. , . . 

J'eaiiut 

Cocoanut 



Syrup 

I loney 

VK(;r'.iAiiT,('.s. 

Carrot 

Winter CabhaKe 

ked Cabbage 

While " 

Spiiiacli 

Celery 

Head Jycttuce 

Potato 

White Turnip 

Heel 

Sugar IJeet 

Parsnip 

Sweet Potato 

("ui-timber 

Asparagus 

Cauliflower 

Melon 

Squash 

*' .Maniiite. 



H.J.H 



73. 

7y.« 

Hy.6 

«4.7 
7B.5! 
«5.7 

81.2 
B4.y 
80. 

85.7 
87.6 

78. 4 



'■<j ■ i 



■■"J ■ 4 

27. y 

4y.8 

32- 
33. 



•14. (> 
20.6 



8r,.8 

80. 

'/.>. 

84.. 

94.3 

75. 

92.5 

87.5 

79. 

8--!. 

7. .8 
95.2 
93-7 
90.9 
90.4 
90-3 



5 ° 



■5.8 



46. 

46.9 

7'.'. 3 

73-3 

67.7 

76.8 

18.1 



5.6 



■J U. 



1.8 



'4'. I 
7-' 



•I 4. 'I 
42. 8 



1 .2 
■•7 
2.3 



I .2 
1.4 



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fS.9 



3-'' 



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A r,. 

C 3 



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7.S 



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1.6 
1.6 


7. 
5.' 
.6 


1 .2 


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12,1 


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4.6 


2.5 
3. 


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6.5 


3. ! 


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12.5 

'5. 

•5. 

12.8 

23.8 

"4- 

21 . 

7.7 

9' 

6.4 



6.8 
37.8 
15.8 
23. 
12.4 

6.4 



4.8 
4.4 
4. 
2.6 

'•7 

7.8 



8.1 
1.8 
9.6 



4S6 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



FOOD SUBSTANCES. 



Onion 

Pumpkin 

Tomato 

Peas, green, garden. . . 

small 

African 

green shelled 

Beans, field. 

French or Kidney 

white 

Lima 

String beans 

Lentils 

German 



JMii.K AND Butter. 

Mothers' milk 

Cows' ■ ' 

Cream 

Swedish Butter 

French " 

Cheese, Stilton 

Skimmed milk , 

Buttermilk 

Milk of Cow Tree 

Meats. 

Lean Beef 

Lean INIuttou 

Veal 

Pork 

Poultry 

White Fish 

Salmon 

Entire Egg 

White of Egg 

Yolk of Egg 



66. 
13. S 
12.6 



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12. 


24.6 


52.6 


=3.4 


57.8 


21.7 


57.7 


25- 


48. 3 


23.7 


SS.o 


26.9 


48. S 


21.9 


66.6 


2.7 


5.5 


25.9 


53. 


33. 


30.3 


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4-1 




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16. S 




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18. 1 




16.1 




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2.S 



Milk 
Sug. 

.=;-4 
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2.8 

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40.2 



BILLS OF FARE FOR EVERY DAY IN THE YEAR. 



In the following pages will be found a breakfast and dinner 
bill of fare for every day in the year, beginning with January i. 
We would particularly recommend a trial of their use by the 
young and inexperienced matron just entering upon house- 
keeping, whose desire should be to begin right — provide sim- 
ple and healthful as Avell as palatable food for her family. To 
many such we trust that our " year's breakfasts and dinners " 
may come like the grateful suggestions of a helpful friend. 
An explanation of the bills of fare has been given in the pre- 
ceding pages, and need not be repeated here. 



I'MKiST WKKK. 



KiRsr n.w 


FOURTH DAY 


llKKAKl-AST 


lUii'.AKl'AS'l' 


Fresh Fruit 
Rolled Oiits Gravy Toast 


Fresh Fruit 
Rolled Wheal Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Corn Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


Hominy Gems Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked Sweet Potatoes with Tomato Gravy 


DINNER 


Celery 
Stewed Fruit 


Vegetable Oyster Soup 


DINNECR 


Baked Potato with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Tomato Cream Soup 


Mashed Peas Baked Squash 


Boiled Potatoes with Cream Sauce 


Rolled Rye 


Mashed J'cas 15aked Chestnuts 


Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Crisps 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Rice Stewed Fruit 


Pop Corn Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Pudding 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


liRHAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Cerealine Snowflake Toast 


Mi.ved Mush Browned Sweet Potato 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Stewed Fruit 


Graham Bread Corn Puffs Toasted Waters 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Swiss Potato Soup 
Baked Potato and Pease Gravy 


DINNER 


Macaroni with Kornlet Stewed Lima Beans 


Cream Pea Soup 


Pearl Barley 


Mashed Potatoes Baked Cabbage 


Corn Cake Cream Crisps 


Stewed Corn Pearl Wheat 


Stewed Fruit 


Zwieback Currant Puffs Graham Bread 


Cracked Wheat Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


HRKAKKAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice with Fig Sauce Cream Toast 


Graham Grits Toasted Wafers ('elery Toast 


Jheakfast Rolls Whole-Wheat I'.read 


Raised Biscuit Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Baked Sweet Apples 
Stewed Friiit 


Baked Sweet Apples 
Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Lima Bean Soup 


Corn Soup 


IMashed Potato Scalloped Vegetable Oysters 


Baked Squash Mashed Beans 


Hominy 


Rolled Rye 


C'.ialiam Puffs Oatmeal Bread Toasted Wafers 


Beaten Biscuit Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Simple Custard Pie 


Apple Meringue Dessert 


SABE 


ATH 


I'.REAKFAST 


DINNER 


Oranges 


Tomato and Macaroni Soup 


Oatmeal Prune Toast 


Canned Green Peas Scalloped Potato 


Baked Sour Apples 


Steamed Rice 


Breakfast Rolls Fruit Bread 


Whole-Wheat Bread Plain Buns Zwieback 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit and Nuts 



(487) 



iSKCONO WKtCIv. 



riKsr p w 

UKKAKKAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Dates Cream Toast 

'roasted Rolls 

Fruit Bveaii Whole-Wheat Pufts 

Stewed Fruit 

Combiuation Soup 

Boiled Potato with Creanj Sauce 

Pease Cakes Stewed Celery 

Cracked Wheat Whole-Wheat Hread 

Sally Lunn Gems Zwieback 

Stewed Kruit Apple Tapioca 

SKCONO DAY 

HKKAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Strawberry Toast 

Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Crisps 

Pop Overs Baked Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Celery Soup No. 2. 

Mashed Siputsh Mashed Potato 

Chopped Turnip Rolled N\'heat 

liraliam Crisps Rye Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Cream Rice FHidding 

THIRD DAY 

ISKEAKKAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graiu^la Fruit Mush 

Corn Cake Toasted Waters iiraham Putts 

Boileil Macaroni 

Stewed PVuit 

IIINNER 

Swiss Potato Soup 

Baked Sweet Potato Boiled Beets, Sliced 

Succotash Graham Grits 

Gr-aham Bread Toasted Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 

Cornstarch Merinsjue 



I'tHK 111 D \Y 



HKHAKFAsr 



Fresh Fruit 

Gatmeal Snowflake Toast 

Toasted Wafers Currant Puffs 

(.irahani Breail Baked Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 

iSlashed Sweet Potato Scalloped Tomatoes 

Farina 

l.'>i-aham Fruit Bread Crusts Zwieback 

Stewed Fruit Apple Pie 

FIFTH DAY 

BR15AKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Apple Mush Gr;tvy Toast 

Breakfast Rolls Graham Fruit Bread 

Macaroni with Kornlet 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Vegetable Soup 

Mashed Potato Cabbage Salad 

Mashed Peas with Tomato Sauce 

Pearl Barley Toasted Wafers 

N'ieuna Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice INtold with Fruit Sauce 

SIXIH PAY 

BKKAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Orange Rice Blackberry Toast 

(."urrant Puffs Graham Crisps 

Baked Apples Steweil Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Potato Puff Baked Beets 

Stewed Corn and Tomatoes 

Pearl Wheat 

Parker House Rolls Zwieback Corn Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Prune Pudding 



SABBATH 



liRKAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Grope Toast 

Toasted Wafei-s Fruit Ihead 

N\hole-Wheat Pufts 

Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 



PINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Stewed Potato Canned Okra and 'Vomato 

Browned Rice 

Beaten Biscuit Graham Crackers Fruit Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Prune Pie with Granola Crust 



l-^^ 



rillKl) VVKKK 



FIRST DAY 


lOlIRTII DAY 


BREAKFAST 
Fresh Fniit 


IlKI'.AKFAS !■ 


Graham Mush wiili Raisins 

Gravy Toast Toasted liealeii His( nit 

Whole-Wheat I'uffs 

I'.aked Potato with Celery SaiK <• 


l''resh I''rnil 

Rolled Rye Apricot Toast 

Crusts Toasted Wafers Con. Putts 

(Jranola Baked Apples 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Frnil 


DlNNliK 

IJakcd Bean Soup 

Steamed I'(jlatoes with Pease (Jravy 

Scalloped Vegetable Oysters Mashed Parsnip 

(iraham Grits Whole-Wheat Bread 

Kye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Bread Custard Pudding 


DINNKR 

Cream Pea Soup 

Mashed Potato C:abbagc Hash 

Steweil Vegetable Oysters (iraham Mush 

Graliam Puffs Buns Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Cornstarch with Raisins 


SECOND DAY 


KIFFH DAY 


UKF.AKFASr 


IlKtiAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Peach Toast 


Rice with Fig Sauce Graham Gruel 


Cottage Cheese 


Lentil 'I'oast Beaten Biscuits 


Hoe Cake Graham Wafers Graham Puffs 


Graham Gems Zwieback 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked I'otato with Cream Gravy 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Lentil and Parsnip Soup 


DINNER 


Mashed Potato Celery Hulle.l Corn 


Mixed Potato Soup 


Scalloped Tomato 


Macaroni with Kornlet Baked Beans 


Macaroni with Raisins 


Graham (Jrits T<jasted Beaten liiscuit 


Raised Corn Bread Cream Crisps 


Whole-Wheat Bread Sally Jainn Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed I'ruit 


Farina Blancmange 


Fig Pudding with Orange Sauce 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


IlKKAKFAST 


BRKAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


l)alm<-al Porridge Celery Toast 
Potato Cakes 


Brewis Blackberry 'I'oast 
Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat Pufls 


Cream Rolls Whole-Wheat P.rcad Zwieback 

l;aked Sweet Apples Stewed Fruit 

IJINNRR 

Cream Rice Soup 

Boiled Potato with Brown Sauce 

Stewed Cabbage Mashed Split Peas 

Boiled Wheat Whole-Wheat Bread 


Graham Bread 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNF.R 

Canned Green Pea Soup 

Boiled Potato Corn and Tomato 

Mashed Lentils and Beans 

Farina 


Toasted Rolls Currant Puffs 
Stewed Fruit 


Graham Crusts Zwieback Cream Crisps 
Stewed Fruit 


Corn Meal Pudding 


Rice and Tapioca Pudding 


SAB] 


ATI! 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 

Granola Fruit Mush Grape 'I'oast 

Graham Fruit Bread 


Canned Corn Soup 

Creamed Potatoes Mashed Peas 

Cold Boiled Beets, sliced 

Steamed Rice 


Beaten Biscuit Baked Sour Apples 


Graham Breail Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Slewed Fruit Raised Jelly Cake Fresh Fruit 



(489) 



KOURTH w^eek:. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes Snowflake Toast 

Toasted Beaten Biscuit Whole-Wheat Bread 

Corn Puffs j Steamed Figs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

Baked Potatoes with Brown Sauce 

Cabbage Salad ' Parsnips with Egg Sauce 

Cracked Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread Rye Gems Sticks 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice and Stewed Apple Dessert 

.SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Prune Toast Pop Overs 

Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Rolls 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Vegetable Oyster Soup 

Boiled Potato with Lentil Gravy 

Turnips in Juice Celery with Tomato 

Cracked Wheat 

Toasted Rolls Raised Biscuit Oatmeal Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Tapioca and Fig Pudding 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Dates Gravy Toast 

Hoe Cake Graham Sticks 

Whole-Wheat Bread Boiled Macaroni 

Baked Chestnuts Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Celery Soup No. 2 

Mashed Sweet Potato Chopped Beets 

Succotash Graham Grits 

Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Currant Puffs Stewed Fruit 

Banana Dessert 



FOURTH DA^' 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Apple Toast 

Graham Puffs Zwieback Graham Bread 

Baked Bananas Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Parsnip Soup No. 2 

Scalloped Potatoes Stewed Lima Beans 

Macaroni with Egg Sauce 

Farina Graham Crisps Crescents 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Stewed Fruit 

Prune Dessert 



FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes Gravy Toast 

Bean Gems Graham Crisps Fruit Bread 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Vegetable Soup 

Baked Potato with Tomato Cream Sauce 

Stewed Parsnip with Celery flashed Peas 

Pearl Wheat 

Toasted Wafers Fruit Bread Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit Lemon Pie 



SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Porridge Cream Toast 

Breakfast Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

Corn Puffs Macaroni with Raisins 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Stewed Potato Hulled Corn Chopped Turnip 

Rolls Toasted Wafers Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Molded Cracked Wheat with Fruit Sauce 



SABBATH 



BREAKFAST 



Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Prune Toast 

Pulled Bread Fruit Rolls Toasted Wafers 

Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 



Lentil Soup 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce Stewed Corn 

Steamed Rice 

Cream Crisps Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Caramel Custards Fruit and Nuts 



(490) 



KIKTH WEEIv. 



II RSI' HAV 

nRF.AKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Tomato Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Whole-Wheat Bread 

Toasted Rolls Baked Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Canned Okra and Tomato Soup 

Kaked Sweet Potatoes Mashed Cabbage 

Pease Cakes Boiled Wheat 

datmeal Crisps Graham Gems 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit Carrot Pudding 



SECOND DAY 

, BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Porridge Banana Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Zwieback Rye Bread 

Browned Sweet Potato 

Baked Sour Apples Stewed Fruit 



Bean and Potato Soup 

Potatoes stewed with Celery Egg Macaroni 

Stewed Carrots Hominy 

Rye Bread Sticks Currant Buns 

Stewed Fruit Prune Whip 



THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Corn Meal Mush Snowflake Toast 

Hominy Gems Sticks 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Baked Sweet Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Brown Soup 

Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 

Scalloped Turnip Mashed Chestnuts 

Lentil Puree with Lemon 

Graham Grits 

Graham Bread Beaten Biscuit Rye Gems 

Stewed Fruit Cream Rice Pudding 



FOURTH DA\ 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Apple Mush Blackberry Toast 

Toasted Wafers Graham BretuI 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Black Bean Soup 

Mashed Potato Scalloped Tomatoes 

Stewed Vegetable Oysters Pearl Wheat 

Sally Lunn Gems Graham Bread 

Zwieback Stewed Fruit 

Apple Tart 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Flesh Fruit 

Oatmeal Vegetable Oyster Toast 

(Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Corn Cake 

Baked Sweet Potato 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Vegetable Soup 

Baked Potato SteweS Beans Kornlet 

Chopped Beets Browned Rice 

Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit Orange Pudding 



SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Strawebrry Toast 

Graham Gems t'.Hoe Cakes Toasted Wafers 

Macaroni with Kornlet 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Tomato and Vermicelli Soup 

Browned Potato Cabbage Salad 

Baked Squash Mashed Peas Rice 

Whole- Wheat Puffs 

Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Baked Corn Meal Pudding 



SABBATH 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Lemon Rice Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 

Graham Crackers 

Baked Sour Apples Stewed Fruit 



DINNER 

Canned Pea Soup 

Chopped Sweet Potatoes Stewed Lima Beans 

Celery Boiled Wheat 

Beaten Biscuit Whole-Wheat Bread 

Toasted Wafers Steued Fruit 

Squash Pie 



(491) 



SirvTH WKElv. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 




Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 




Graham Mush with Dates 


Corn Meal INIush Gravy Toast 




Toasted Wafers Currant Puffs 


Poached Eggs on Toast Corn Cakes 




Toasted l^.eaten Biscuit ^Vhole-^\■heat Bread 


Baked Sour Apples 




Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 






DINNER 


DINNER 






Pea and Tomato Soup 


Bean and Hominy Soup 


Boiled Potato with Cream Sauce 


Potato Rice Turnips with Cream Sauce 


Browned Parsnips Baked Turnip 


Mashed Parsnips Baked Barley 


Pearl Wheat 


Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Graham Rolls 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Toasted Wafers Stewed Fruit 


Plain Fruit Pudding 


Almond Cornstarch Pudding 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice with Fig Sauce Gravy Toast 






Corn Meal Porridge Cream Toast 


Toasted Rolls Whole-Wheat Puffs Crescents 






Zwieback Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Macaroni with Egg Sauce 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 






DINNER 


Swiss Lentil Soup 




Baked Potato Boiled Beets Stewed Cabbage 


Plain Rice Soup 


Mashed Squash Cracked Wheat 


Potato Snowballs Carrots with Egg Sauce^' 


Graham Raised Biscuit Cream Crisps 


Mashed Beans Rolled Wheat 


Stewed Fruit 


Fruit Loaf Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Farina Blancmange with Mock Cream 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Rolled Oats Prune Toast 


Whole-Wheat Bread * Cream Crisps 


Graham Rolls Fruit Bread Bean Gems 


Graham Puffs Lemon Apples 


Stewed Fruit 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 




Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Vegetable Broth 


Velvet Soup 


Baked Potato Scalloped Vegetable Oysters 


Mashed Potato Mashed Peas Vegetaljle Hash 


Hulled Corn Pearl Barley 


Graham Grits 


Toasted Wafers Zwieback 


Graham Bread Sticks Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Cracked Wheat Pudding 


Floating Islands Oranges 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Green Corn Soup 


Rolled Wheat with Raisins Blackberry Toast 


Stewed Potato Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 
Rice 


Graham Raised Biscuit 




P»uns Toasted Wafers Beaten Biscuit 


Toasted Wafers Breakfast Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Baked Sour Apples 


Bread Custard Almonds 



(492) 



SEVENTH W^EEK. 



IMRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


HKEAKFAST 




Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Cerealinc Flakes Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Fresh Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs . 'I'oasted Rolls 


Corn Meal Mush Apple ■loa>t 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Rye Bread Pop Overs Toasted Wafers 


DINNKU 


Roasted .■\lmonds Stewed Frui. 


Cream Barley Soup 


DINNER 


Steamed Potatoes with Cream Sauce 

liaked Parsnips Scalloped Bcaus 

Browned Rice 

Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Graham Crisps 

Stewed Fruit. 

Cocoaniit Blancmange or Fresli Fruit 


Brown Soup 

B^kcd ]>olatoes Carrots with Kg;.; S;aue 

Mashed Peas 

Cum Meal Cubes with Hot Cream 

Rye Bread Graham Sticks 

Stewed Fruit Farina p'ruit Mold 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Lentil C.ravy SnowflaUe Toast 

Crusts Toasted Wafers Corn Puffs 

Baked Apples Slewed Fruit 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Corn Puffs Toasted Wafers Rye Bread 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 




DINNER 


DINNER 


Cream Pea Soup 


Combination Soup 


Boiled Potato with Brown Sauce 


Baked Potato Mashed Siiuash 


Baked Cabbage Stewed Corn 


Turnips in Juice 


Rolled Rye 


Graham Grits Graham Crisps 


Currant Puffs Toasted Wafers Graliani Ihead 


Whole-Wheat Bread Zwieback 


Stewed F'ruit 


Stewed Fruit Orange Float 


Dale Pudding with Lemon Sauce 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Wheat Lentil Toast 


Oatmeal Porridge Snowfiake Toast 


Granola Toasted Wafers Graham Puffs 


Zwieback Whole-Wheat Puffs Crescents 


Creamed Potatoes Celery. 


Boiled Macaroni Baked Apples 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Bean and Tomato Soup 


Corn Soup 


Mashed Potatoes Scalloped Vegetable Oysters 


Steamed Potatoes with Cream Sauce 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Stewed Lima Beans Baked Beets 


Cracked Wheat Corn Bread 


Pearl Wheat 


A\"hole-Wheat Puffs Graham Crackers 


Vienna Bread Graham Crisps Oatmeal Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Apples or Bananas 


Apple Manioca or Fresh Fruit 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Pea Soup 
Stewed Potato Succotash 


(Jatmeal Tomato Toast 
Currant Buns Toasted Wafers 


Graham (jrits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Graham Rolls with Fruit Jelly 


Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Bananas 



(493) 



KIGHXH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 




Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Plum Porridge Peach Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Wlu.le-Wheat Puffs Whole-Wheat Bread 


Brcwis Cream Toast 


Granola Toasted Wafers 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Stewed Fruit 


Corn Puffs Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit Dates 


Vegetable Soup 


DINNER 


1\nato Rice Scalloped Tomatoes 


Tomato and Macaroni Soup 


Mashed Parsuips Boiled Wheat 


Potato Puff Stewed Split Peas 


Zwieback Whole-Wheat Bread 


Sliced Beets 


Sally Lunn Gems 


Crusts Graham Bread Fruit Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Yielded Cracked Wheat with Fruit Juice 


Oranges and Nuts 


Stewed Fruit Bananas 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice with Fig Sauce Gravy Toast 


Graham Grits Prune Toast 


Hoe Caiie Toasted Wafers 


Peas Puree 


Whole-Wheat Bread 


Fruit Rolls Rye Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Lima Bean Soup 


Potato Soup with Vermicelli 


Boiled Polutoes Washed Turnips 


Boiled Potato with Brown Sauce 


Canned Green Peas 


Mashed Squash Baked Beans 


Pearl Barley 


Pearl Wheat 


Fruit Loaf Beaten Biscuit 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Farina Blancmange with Fruit Sauce 


Granola Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 




BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Wheat Porridge Gravy Toast 


Oatmeal Banana Toast 


Graham Puffs Hoe Cake Toasted Wafers 


Corn Puffs Toasted Beaten Biscuit 


Lemon Apples 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 

Lentil and Parsnip Soup 

Scalloped Potato 

Chopped Cabbage Hulled Corn 

Graham Apple Mush 

Graham Puffs Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Grape Apples 


DINNER 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

Steamed Potato Stewed Corn 

Macaroni Baked with Granola 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Bean Gems 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Orange Custard 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Corn Soup 


Orange Rice Strawberry Toast 


Creamed Potatoes JNlacaroni with Tomato 


Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread 
Roasted Almonds 


Boiled Wheat 

Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Cocoanut Layer Cake California Grapes 



[ 494 ,) 



MINTM week:. 



FIRST DAY 

IIRIJAKI'AST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Dates Gravy Toast 

Graham (jeins Toasted Beaten Hiscuit 

Whole-Wheat Breatl 

liaked Ajjples Stewed Fruit 

DINNKK 

Brown Soup 

Mashed I'otato Stewed Lima I'eans 

Baked Beets 

Graham Grits Graham Gems 

Wliole-Wheat Bread Graham Cracl<ers 

Stewed Fruit 

Snowball Custard or Fresh Fruit 

SF.CUNIJ DAY 

liKEAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

('■raliani Grits Gruel, with Croutons 

Apple and Prune Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Lemon Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lima Bean and Tapioca Soup 

Beet Hash Stewed Vegetable Oysters 

^hlshed Peas with Tomato Sauce 

Rice with Raisins 

Ivaised Biscuit Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

Apple Rose Cream 

THIRD DAY 

BRKAKFAST 

F'resh Fruit 

Oatmeal Tomato Toast 

Raised Biscuit Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNKK 

Scotch Broth 

Scalloped Potatoes Cabbaije Celery 

Stewed Tomato Baked Squash 

Pearl Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Crackers 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Rice Fruit Pudding 



fol'R'hi day 

I(RI£AKI-AS J' 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Apple T'last 

Breakfast Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 

DINNKK 

Black Bean Soup 

Mashed Potato Scalloped 'rcimalu 

Baked Parsnips 

Rolled Rye 

Toasted Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

Currant Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Baked Apple Loaf 

FIFTH DAY 

HKEAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Snowflake 'I'oasi 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Date Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

(iranola Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Parsnip Soup 

Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 

Mashed Lentils with Beans Boiled ^L^caroni 

Farina 

Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

Apple and Fig Tapioca 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

I'resh Fruit 

Corn Meal Mush Lentil Toast 

Cream Crisps Date Bread Graham Puffs 

Piaked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

^Llcaroni Soup 

Mashed P(jtato Stewed Split Peas 

Scalloped Turnip 

Browned Rice 

Corn Meal Mush Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

Toasted Wafers 
Stewed Fruit Farina Custard or Fresh Fruit 



SABBATH 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Granola Fruit Mush Prune Toast 

Graham Fruit Bread Toasted Rolls 

Baked Sour Apples 

Stewed Fruit 



DINNER 

Tomato Cream Soup 

Potato Cakes Slewed Corn 

Steamed Rice 

Beaten Biscuits Buns 

Stewed Fruit 

Apple Pie or Fresh Fruit 



(495) 



TEr^XH WEETv. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Toasted Beaten Biscuits Corn Cakes 

Granola Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Potato Soup 

Scalloped Beans 

Macaroni baked with Granola Graham Grits 

Graham Crisps Pop Overs 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit 
Stewed Fruit Pudding 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Strawberry Toast 

French KoUs Toasted Wafers 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Combination Soup 

Scalloped Potato Browned Parsnips 

Hulled Corn Graham Apple INIush 

Rye Bread Zwieback 

WholeAMieat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Cocoanut Cornstarch Pudding 



THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Gravy Toast 

Graham Gems Rye Bread Toasted Wafers 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Parsnip Soup No. 2. 

Boiled Potatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 

INIashed Peas Chopped Cabbage 

Pearl Barley 

Crusts Corn Dodgers Graham Crackers 

Stewed Fruit 

Cream Rice Pudding 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled t)ats Blackberry Toast 

Wliole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Potato Rice Succotash Stewed Tumaio 

Clacked Wheat with Raisins 

Rye Bread Sticks Grahanv Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Bread Pudding or Fresh I'ruit 



FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Cream Toast 

Graham Gems Hoe Cake Toasted Wafers 

Baked Potato with Cream Gravy 

Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lentil Soup 

Steamed Potato with Brown Sauce 

Cabbage Celery Carrots with Egg Sauce 

Macaroni with Kornlet Farina 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Currant Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Baked Apples with Whipped Cream 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat with Dates Boiled Macaroni 

Graham Biscuits Breakfast Rolls 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Carrot Soup 

Baked Potatoes Mashed Turnips 

Baked Squash 

Hominy 

Graham Bread Toasted Rolls 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Banana Shortcake Nuts 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Boiled Wheat Grape Toast 

Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuits 

Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Tomato and INIacaroni Soup 
Browned Potatoes Canned Green Peas 

Steamed Rice 

Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers Beaten Biscuit 

Stewed Frui; Almond Cream 



(490 



KLliiVKiX'ri I WKliK. 



FIRST DAY 

UKEAKFAST 

Frcsli Fniil 

I'.rouiied Rite (Jnivy 'I'uast 

Wh.ilc-Whccit I'lifts 'I'oaslccl Hualon Biscuits 

Macaidiii with Kaisius 

Steamed Figs Stewed I'niit 

DlNNIiU 

Fea and Tomato Soup 

Sialliipcd Potatoes Mashed Parsnips 

Hulled Corn 

Mixed Musli 

Rye C'lenis Corn Fnead I'oasied Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Apple Custard or Fresh Fruit 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cnrn aieal Mush Aiiriccit Toast 

(iraluim Gems Corn I>rcad Toasted Wafers 

ISakcd Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINXIiR 

Plain Rice Soup 

Mashed Potato Scalloped Turnip 

Stewed Split Peas 

Farina Fruit Mush 

Wliolc-Whcat F.read Sally Lunn Gems 

Zwieback 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice and Tapioca I'uddiui; 

THIRD DAY 

UREAKKAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Parched F"arinosc Tomato Toast 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Pop Overs 

Browned Corn Meal Mush 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Brown Sou]) 

Slewed Potatoes Chojjped Beets 

Mashed Lima Beans 

Pearl Wheat 

Pulled Bread Toasted Wafers 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Bread and Fruit Custard 



FOURTH DAY 

MHIiAKFAST 

I'resh Fruit 

Oatmeal Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Roasted Almonds 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 

Boiled Potato Cabbage and Tomato 

Mashed Peas 

Rice 

Cream Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

Slewed Fruit 

Ta].iinca Lemon Jelly 

FIFTH DAY 

liRl'.AKFASf 

Fresh Fruit 

Corn Meal Gruel with Croutons 

Boiled Macaroni 

Graham Gems Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

liaked Potato with Gravy 

Cottage Cheese 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Baked Bean Soup 

Mashed Potato Carrots with Egg Sauce 

I Scalloped Tomato 

Graham Grits 

Graham Bread Buns Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

1 hied Apple Pie or Fresh Fruit 

SIXTH DAY 

liREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye 

Graham Bread Breakfast Rolls 

Potato Cakes Peas Puree 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Boiled Potato with Cream Sauce 

Succotash Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Rolled Wheat with Raisins 

Graham Puffs Whole-Wheat Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Graham Grits Pudding 



SABBATH 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Prune Toast 

I'ruit Rolls Graham Biscuit 

Puked Apples Stewed Fruit 



DINNER 

Lima Bean Soup 
Stewed Potato Cold Sliced Beets Kornlet 

Steamed Rice 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Fruit Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 

Fresh Fruit and Nuts 



32 



(497) 



TWELFTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAV 


I'OURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 

Steamed Eggs 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Prune Toast 

Toasted Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 

Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DIN'NER 


Tomato and Yermicelli Soup 


Cream Pea Soup 


Beet Hash Mashed Peas 


Mashed Potatoes Scalloped Tomatoes 


Macaroni with Kornlet 


Stewed Cabbage 
Pearl Barley 


Orange Rice 
Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 


Cream Crisps Graham Bread 
Stewed Fruit 


Currant Puffs 
Stewed Fruit 


Farina Blancmange with Cocoanut Sauce 


Apple Sago Pudding 


SECOND DAY 


FH^'TH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Apple and Apricot Toast 

Cream Rolls Graham Bread 

Baked Apples • Stewed Fruit 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Browned Rice Gravy Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Potatoes 

Pease Cakes with Tomato Sauce 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Pea and Tomato Soup 

Potato Rice , Creamed Parsnips 

Chopped Turnip 

Graham INIush 

Crusts Graham Bread Cream Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 

Prune and Tapioca Pudding 


DINNER 

Black Bean Soup No. z. 

JMashed Potato Mashed Parsnips Stewed Corn 

Rolled Rye 

Corn Bread Toasted Wafers 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Banana Dessert 


THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 


SIXTH DAY 


Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Corn Meal Mush with Fruit Cream Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Parker House Rolls 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Rolled Oats Blackberry Toast 

INIacaroni with Raisins 

Pop Overs Toasted Wafers 


DINNER 

Vegetable Broth 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Baked Potato with Brown Sauce 


DINNER 


Boiled Beets Corn and Tomato 


Potato Soup 


Graham Grits 


Potato Puff Scalloped Tomato Baked Beans 


iMush Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 


Cracked Wheat 


Sally Lunn Gems 


Graham Bre?d Sticks Currant Puffs ■ 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Cream Rice Pudding 


Jlalaga Grapes 


SABi 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 
Rolled Wheat Tomato Toast 


Tomato and Macaroni Soup 
Stewed Potato Canned String Beans 


Buns Beaten Biscuit 


Boiled Wheat 


Baked Apples Cup Custard 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers Buns 


Stewed Fruit 


Lemon Shortcake Nuts 



(498) 



THIRTRKNTTI r VVKP^iIv. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH HAY 


llKlCAKFAsr 


IlUKAKl'AST 


Krcsli Fruit 

Uralniu Musli with Dales Cru.iin ro.i-.t 

Breakfast Rolls witli Fruit Jelly 

Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat Bread 

Slewed Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 

Plum Purridye Dry 'J'oast , with Hot Cream 

Graham Bread 'I'oasted Wafers Oirn I'uffs 

Creamed Potatoes 

Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 

lican and Potato Soup 


DINNER 


IVIashcd I'ulato Heets with Cream Sauce 


Cream Pea Soup 


Macaroni baked, with Granola 


PiAalo Rice Tomato and Macaroni 


Pearl P.arley with Raisins 


Hulled Corn 


Toaslcd Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread RyeCrms 


Rice 


Stewed Fruit 


(jraham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 


Lcnion Apples with Wliipped Cream 


Stewed Fruit Raised Pie or Fresh Fr\iit 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Porridge Poached Kgs;s on Tua^t 


Rolled Wheat Api)le Toast 


Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Wholc-WIieat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Potato Cakes 


Breakfast Rolls 


Cottage Cheese Stewed Fruil 


Baked Bananas Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 

Swiss Lentil Soup 
Mashed Potato 
Cahljage Salad Mashed Turnip 
Graham (irits 


DINNER 

15rown Soup 

(reamed I'otatocs Chopped Turnips 

Parsnips willi Cream Sauce 

Cracked Wheat 


Graham Bread Cream C'risps 

Stewed Fruil 

Baked Apple Dessert 


■|-uaslcd Rolls Date Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice Cream Pudding 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Frcih Fruit 


Corn Meal Musli Snowllakc 'J'lKe.t 


(orealiiie Flakes Prune Toa^l 


Oatmeal Gems 'I'oastcd Wafers 


Macaroni with Egg Sauce 


Fruit Bread 


Hati; Bread Toasted Wafers Graham (Jems 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruil 


Baked Apples Stevi'ed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Potato Soup 


liean and Tomato Soup 


}>aked Polalcjes with Tomato Cream Same 


Boiled Potatoes Macaroni with Lentil Giavy 


Mashed or Stewed Peas Canned Corn 


Stewed Carrols 


Graham Mush 


Graham Grits 


Pulled Bread Fruit Bread 


Oeam Crisps Rye (jcms 


Graham Crackers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Apple 'I'arl 


Cracked Wheat Puddiu'^ 


SABB 


ATH 


HUEAKKAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Tomato Soup with Vermicelli 


Rolled Oats Gravy ToHst 


Warmed-over Potato Canned Green Peas 


Breakfast Rolls Toasted Wafers Fruit Bread 


Cold Sliced Beets Rolled Wheat 


C\ip Custard Baked Apples 


Whole-Wheat Bread Beaten Biscuit 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Prune Pie Fruit 



{ 499 ) 



KOURXEENTH WEEK. 



FIRST ]>AV 


FOURTH DAY 


BKEAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Kirc with Steamed Figs Cream Toast 


Rolled Oats Lentil Toast 


Wliole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 


Currant Puffs Breakfast Rolls Graham Bread 


Fruit Bread Granola 


Potato Cakes 


Stewed Fruit 


Granola Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Canned Corn Soup 


Tomato Cream Soup 


r.aked Potatoes with Cream Sauce 


Scalloped Potatoes Baked or Stewed Beans 


Scalloped Tomatoes Mashed Peas 


Macaroni Baked with Granola 


Browned Rice 


Rice 


Whole-Wheat Bread 


Vienna Bread Toasted Rolls 


Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit ' 


Stewed Fruit Pudding 


Prune Dessert Nuts 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Peach Toast 


Rolled Wheat Gravy Toast 


Cream Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 


Graham Bread Breakfast Rolls 


Graham Gems 


Rice and Corn Cakes 


Dates Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples 


DINNER 


Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 


Cream Pea Soup 


DINNER 


Creamed Potatoes Baked Cabbage 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Mashed Potato iNIaslied Parsnips Succotash 


Hominy- 


Graham Grits 


Toasted Rolls Corn Puffs 


Raised Corn Bread Graham Gems 


Whole-Wheat Bread 


Toasted Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Fruit Cornstarch Pudding 


Rice and Tapioca Pudding 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Granola Fruit jNIush Snowflake Toast 


Graham Grits Ciruel with Croutons 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Strawberry Toast Macaroni with Raisins 


Parker House Rolls 


Cream Rolls Corn Bread Graham Puffs 


Lemon Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Bean and Hominy Soup 


Swiss Lentil Soup 


Mashed Potatoes Mashed Lentils 


Potato Cakes Chopped Cabbage 


Turnips with Cream Sauce 


Stewed Corn and Tomatoes 


Farina 


Pearl Barley 


Vienna Bread Sally Lunn Gems 


Toasted Rolls Graham Bread Pop Overs 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Banana Dessert or Fresh Fruit 


Bread Pudding or Fresh Fruit 


SABi 


5ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Prune Toast 

Currant Piuns Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

White Custard in Cups 


Cream Barley Soup 

Baked PotatOiS with Tomato Cream Sauce 

Stewed Lima Beans Rice 

Graham Bread Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Apple Pie Oranges 



500) 



KIKXEENIMI WEKK. 



KIKSl' ]>.\y 

I'.NI'.AKIASI' 

Fresh Fill it 

GialiMin Fruit Mush 

Dry 'I'oiist willi Hot Cream 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Hcaten I'.isiuit 

Uraham Hreatl 

Baked Bananas Stewed Fruit 

niNNKK 

Bean and Potato Soup 

Maslicd Potato Cal)l>age Celery 

Scalloped 'I'omato 

Lentil Puree Cerealinc 

('.rali:uji Bread Corn Puffs 'I'oasled Wafers 

Stewed p'ruit 

Rice and Tapioca Puddinp; 

SECOND DAY 

nREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Tomato 'I'oast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

(irahani Bread 

Macaroni with Cream Sauce 

Oranola Stewed I''niit 

DINNKK 

Canned Corn Soup 

Broiled Potato Stewed Parsnips Mashed Peas 

Farina with Maple Syrup 

Oraham Puffs Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

Lemon Apples with Almond Sauce 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Lentil Gravy Poached Kgg on Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 

Oranola Stewed Fruit 

DINNKK 

Cream Rice Soup 

Boiled Potato Mashed Turnip 

Pease Cakes with Tomato Sauce 

Oraham Grits 

Rye lircad Crusts Toaste<l Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Oatmeal Blancmange Nuts 



I'OLKIII DAY 

IU<KAKIASr 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Apple and Apricot Toast 

Macaroni wilh 'I'omato Sauce 

Breakfast Rolls Rye Bread Graham 1 iifis 

Roastcil AluKJiids Stewed Fruit 

DINMKK 

Swiss Potato Soil]) 

Baked Potatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 

Hulled Corn Boiled Beets 

Boiled Wheat with Lemon Sauce 

Toasted Rolls Currant Puffs 

Rye Bread 

Stewcfl Fruit Tapioca Custard 

FIFTH BAY 

P.RKAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Snowflake Toast 

\\'hole-Wheat Puffs CJrnham Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Baked Ai>i)les Stewed Fruit 

DINNKR 

Carrot Soup 

Scallojied Potato Mashed Beans 

Cold Boiled Beets, sliced 

Rolled Rye 

Oraham Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Oraham Crackers Stewed Fruit 

Cornstarch with Raisins 



SIXTH DAY 

r.RF.AKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Frumenty Blueherry. Toast 

Breakfast Rolls Corn Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Baked Apples Stewed I'ruit 

DINNF.R 

Combination Soup 

Mashed Potatoes Stewed Split Peas 

Cahbage Salad 

Cracked Wheat with Raisins 

Tr.asted Rolls Currant Puffs (iraham Bread 

Stewed Fruit Rice Snowliall 



liRKAKFAST 

n-esh Fruit 

Oatmeal Blackberry Toast 

Raised Corn Bread Crescents Fruit Rolls 

Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNKR 

Cream Pea Soup 

Canned String Beans or Kornlet 

Macaroni, Tomato Sauce Rice with Oranges 

I'niit Rolls Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Nuts 



(501) 



SIXTEENTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Granola Fruit Mush Cremi Toast 

^\•l)ole-\Vheat Puft's Toasted Rolls 

Graham Bread 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lima Bean Soup 

Potato Rice Chopped Beets 

Egg and Macaroni 

Pearl Wheat 

Graham Bread Sally Lunn Gems 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Cottage Cheese Nuts 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes Grape Toast 

Graham Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Cream Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

Baked Potatoes Stewed Cahbage 

Stewed Dried Corn 

Rolled Wheat ' 

Graham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Rolls 
Stewed Fruit 
Rice Meringue 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmael Snowflake Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Fruit Bread 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Corn Soup 

Cabbage Hash Stewed Split Peas 

Scalloped Tomato 

Steamed Rice 

Graham Bread Cream Crisps Oatmeal Gems 

Stewed Fruit Prune Dessert 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 

P.reakfast Rolls Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Toasted Wafers 

Cottage Clieese Baked Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 

Baked Potatoes Succotash 

JNIacaroni Baked with Granola 

Farina with Maple Syrup 

Graham Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Lemon Apples with Cocoanut Sauce 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Prune Toast 

Corn Puffs Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Plain Omelet Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Potato Snowballs Baked Turnips 

Lentil Puree with Lemon 

Browned Rice 

Graham Crisps Currant Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Corn Meal Pudding 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Gravy Toast 

Macaroni with Egg Sauce 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lentil and Parsnip Soup 

Boiled Potatoes with Brown Sauce 

Chopped Beets Mashed Peas 

Graham Grits 

Toasted Rolls Graham Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Farina Custard 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Fig Sauce Peach Toast 

Sticks Fruit Crackers Graham P.read 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Canned Pea Sotip 

Stewed Potato Canned Okra and Tomatoes 

Boiled Wheat 

Toasted Wafers Graham Raised Biscuit 

Stewed Fruit Pineapple Tapioca Nuts 



C502) 



SEVENXERNTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Browned Rice Strawberry Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Plain Rice Soup 

Mashed Potato Scalloped Beans 

Macaroni with 'I'omato 

Rolled Rye 

("irahani Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Bread Custard 

SKCOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

(irahani Apjile Mush Tomato Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs P.reakfast Rolls 

Koasted.Almonds Stewed Fruit 

DINiNER 

Brown Soup 

Boiled Potatoes with Cream Sauce 

Cliopjjed Cabbage Mashed Lentils 

Pearl ^Vheat with Raisins 

('■raham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Oranola Gems 

Stewed I'ruit Apple Custard 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Lentil Toast 

Toasted Rolls Graham Crackers Currant Puffs 

Stewed Potatoes Cottage Cheese 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Black Bean Soup 

Mashed Potatoes Canned Green Pens 

Boiled Macaroni 

Pearl NVheat 

Oatmeal Crisps Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Cornstarch Merinc;ue or Fresh Fruit 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Wlieat Porridge with Croutons Banana Toast 

Molded Rice with Custard Sauce 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Sticks 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Potato Soup 

Baked Potatoes with Brown Sauce 

Mashed Turnips Stewed Split Peas 

I'eari Barley with Raisins 

Whole-Wheat Bread R\c Gems 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Prune and Tapioca Puddiiig 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

\\'hole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 

Granola Roasted Almonds 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Split Pea Soup 

Creamed Potatoes Scalloped Tomatoes 

Chopped Beets 

Graham Grits 

I'op Overs Toasted Wafers 

Graham Fruit Bread 

Stewed Fruit 
Rice Cream Pudding 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Mixed Mush Snowflake Toast 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Toasted Rolls Fruit Bread Corn Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Baked Bean Soup 

Mashed Potato Macaroni with Kornlet 

Stewed Carrots 

Rolled Rye 

Whole-Wheat Bread Mush Rolls 

(iraham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Cornstarch Blancmange with T'>uit Sauce 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 
Rolled Oats Prune Toast 

Graham Raised Biscuit Toasted Rolls 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Tomato Soup with Vermicelli 

Broiled Potato Canned Corn 

Whole-Wheat Bread Beaten Biscuit 

Rolled \Vheat 

Stewed Fruit Custard Pie 



(503) 



KlOHXKEWrii WEEK. 



I'lRST I)AV 


FOURTH ]),\V 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


('■ranola Banana Mush Gravy Toast 


Graham Grits Gra\y Toast 


JMacaroni with Egg Sauce 


AVhole-Wheat Puff's Toasted Wafers Granola 


WlioleAVheat Puffs Toasted Beaten Biscuits 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNt;R 


Cream Barley Soup 


Corn Soup 


Cabbage Hash Asparagus Points 


Mashed Potatoes Spinach Stewed Lima Beans 


Boiled Macaroni 


Graham Grits 


Browned Rice 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Waters Crusts 


Graham Bread Sally Lunn Gems Mush Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Farina Blancmange 


Fig Pudding with Orange Sauce 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Apricot Toast 


Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 


Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat. Puffs 


Macaroni with Kornlet 


Cream Rolls 


Whole-Wheat Puff's Toasted Rolls 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


Graham Bread 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Bean Soup 


DINNER 


Steamed Potatoes Stewed Asparagus 


Potato Soup 


Scalloped Tomato 


Boiled Potatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Pearl Wheat 


Mashed Peas Spinach 


Whole-Wheat Bread Sticks Graham Puffs 


Graham:;Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Rolled Rye 


Graham Grits Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Nuts 


THIRD DAY 


SIXl'H DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Porridge with Croutons 


Plum Porritlge Snowflake Toast 


Blueberry Toast Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Rye Puffs Ti.asted Wafers Breakfast Rolls 


Toasted Rolls W'hole-W'heat Puffs 


Almomis Stewed Fruit 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 




Macaroni Soup 


Cream Pea Soup 




Potato Rice Stewed Cabbage 


Mashed- Potatoes Lettuce 




Egg and Macaroni 


Pearl Barley 






Farina 


Whole-Wheat Bread Oatmeal Crisps 




Currant Puffs 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 




Oatmeal Breatl 


Egg Sandwich Cottage Cheese 




Stewed Fruit Molded Tapioca 


Stewed Fruit Prune Wlii|) 


SABE 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Green Pea Soup 


Rolled Wheat Prune Toast 


Creamed Potato Mashed Lima Beans 


Plain B\ins Oatmeal Bread Cream Rolls 


Steamed Rice 


Toasted Wafers 


Oatmeal Bread Fruit Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Banana Dessert 



( 504) 



iNINKTEENTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURIII DAY 


BKEAKFAST 


IU<KAKI-AST 


Fresh Fniit 


iMcsh Fruit 


Graham Mush with Dates Cream Toast 


Rolled Wheat Tomato Toast 


Whole-Wheat I'uffs Toasted Rolls 


Wliole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


I'aked J'otato with Cream Saiux- 


I'.aked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Lettuce Stewed I'Vuit 


DINNER 


DINNKR 


Asparagus Soup 


Lima Beau Soup 


Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 


Siallojied Potatoes Stewed Asparagus 


Mashed Beans Lettuce 


Egg Sandwich 


Farina 


Granola Fruit Mush 


Whole-Wheat Bread Oatmeal Crisps 


Rice and Corn Cakes Cream Rolls 


Graham Gems 


'J'oasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Almond Cornstarch Pudding 


^r.Jlded Wheat with Fruit Sauce 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Asparagus Toast 


Graham Mush Peach Toast 


Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


Toasted Rolls 


Toasted Wafers 


Cottage Cheese Stewed Fruit 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Potato Soup 


Cream Pea Soup 


P.oiled Potato Mashed Peas 


Baked Potatoes Spinach Succotash 


Scalloped 'I'omaln 






Rolled Rye 


Pearl Wheat 


'I'oasted Wafers Graham Bread Currant Pulls 


Sally Lunn Gems Graham 15read 




Stewed Fruit 


Toasted Wafers 


Farina Fruit Mold 


Slewed Fruit t'ustard Pie 




THIRD X)AY 


SIXTH DAY 


RREAKFAST 






BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 




Steamed Rice Lentil Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs C.raham liread 


Graham Grits Gravy Toast 


Toasted Wafers 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


(ream Rolls Graham Bread Rye Gems 


DINNKR 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


DINNER 


Mashed Potatoes Radishes 


Corn and Bean Soup 


Asparagus with Cream Sauce 


Boiled Potatoes Fresh or Canned (neen Peas 


Macaroni Baked with Granola 


Scalloped Tomatoes 


Cracked Wheat 


Cracked Wheat with Raisins 


Whole- Wheat Bread Zwieback Graham Puffs 


I'oasted Wafers Cream Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Bread 


Rice Cream Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Plain Custard 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Prune Toast 

Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafer 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Asparagus Soup 

Stewed Potato Macaroni with Tomato 

I'ruit Bread Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Rice 

Stewed Fruit Pineapple 



(505) 



TWENTIKTHL WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 

Toasted Beaten Biscuit 

Lettuce Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Potato Soup 

Baked Potatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 

Stewed Split Peas Spinach 

Boiled Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Fruit Broad 

Stewed Fruit 

Cocoanut Cornstarch Pudding 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Asparagus Toast 

Macaroni with Egg Sauce 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Scalloped Potatoes Hulled Corn 

Asparagus with Egg Sauce 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Puffs 

Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit Banana Custard 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Snowflake Toast 

Breakfast Rolls Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Tomato and Rice Soup 

Mashed Potatoes Lettuce 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Hominy 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Crusts 

Stewed Fruit 

Snowball Custard 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Porridge Berry Toast 

Macaroni with Cream Sauce 

Graham Crisps Hominy Gems 

Lettuce Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Asparagus Soup 

Baked Potatoes Scalloped Tomatoes 

Stewed Corn 

Graham Grits 

Graham Bread Bean Gems Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Prune Dessert 



FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Raisins Tomato Toast 

Graham Gems Toasted Wafers Cream Rolls 

Cottage Cheese Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Corn and Tomato Soup 

Creamed Potatoes Mashed Peas Spinach 

Cracked Wheat 

Toasted Wafers Sally Lunn Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice and Tapioca Pudding 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Asparagus Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Toasted Rolls 

Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Baked Bean Soup 

Mashed Potatoes Stewed Asparagus 

Lettuce 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Baked Barley 

AVhnle-Wheat Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Molded Rice with Fruit Sauce 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Prune Toast 

Cream Rolls Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 

Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Kornlet Soup 

Canned Okra and Tomato Mashed Peas 

Rice 

Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 

Stewed Fruit Pineapple Tapioca 



{506) 



TWENTY-KIRST WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Farina with Fig Sauce 

Snowflake Toast 

Corn Puffs (iraham Hiead Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNKR 

Kornlet and 'J'oniato Soup 

Stuffed Potato Stewed Beans 

Macaroni with Egg Sauce 

Cracked Wheat with Raisins 

Graham Pread Whole-Wheat l^uffs 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Cornstarch I'lancmanfje 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Frumenty Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Pease Puree 

Breakfast Rolls Graham Pufts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Bean and Topioca Soup ' 

Baked Potato with Pease Gravy 

Stewed Dried Corn Scalloped Tomato 

Browned Rice 

Graham Bread Rolls Rye Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Cracked Wheat Pudding 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Granola Mush 

Dried Apple and Apricot Toast 

Raised Biscuit Breakfast Rolls Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Macaroni Soup 

Mashed Potato Succotash 

Canned Green Peas 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Fruit Roll 

Stewed Fruit 

Lemon Cornstarch Pudding 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Jellied Oatmeal Lentil Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Lettuce 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 

Boiled Potato with Tomato Cream Sauce 

Mashed Lentils with Beans 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Hominy 

Fruit Rolls Graham Crisps 

Stewed Fruit Rice Snowball 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Orange Rice Gravy Toast 

Macaroni with Cream Sauce 

Graham Crisps Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Bean and Hominy Soup 

Potato Puff Stewed Split Peas 

Stewed Asparagus 

Pearl Barley with Lemon Sauce 

Ciraham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Orange Float 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rye Mush Prune Toast 

Graham Bread Corn Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Cottage Cheese Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Black Bean Soup 

Stewed Potato Spinach 

Stewed Corn and Tomato 

Graham Grits 

Raised Corn Bread Toasted Wafers 

Graham Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Farina Fruit ISIold 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 
Rolled Oats Grape Toast 

Currant Buns Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafi 
Lettuce Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Canned Green Pea Soup 

Stewed Potato Macaroni with Kornlet 

Rice Beaten Biscuit Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Loaf Cake Bananas 



(507) 



TWENTY-SECOND WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAV 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Dates Gravy Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Beaten Biscuit 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Fig Sauce Gravy Toast 

Toasted Rolls Graham Bread Crusts 

Stewed Fruit 




DINNER 


DINNER 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


Cream Pea Soup 


Broiled Potato Lettuce Hominy 


Mashed Potatoes Spinach 


Egg and Macaroni 


Stewed Dried Corn 


Oatmeal Bread Sally Lunn Gems 


Rolled Wheat 


Graham Crisps 


Graham Bread Rye Gems Sticks 


Stewed Fruit 


Bread Custard Stewed Fruit 


Molded Wheat with Fruit Sauce 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Graham Grits Poached Egg on Toast 


Macaroni with Raisins 


Hominy Gems Graham Crisps 


Graham Gems Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Oatmeal Soup 


• Macaroni Soup 


Boiled Potatoes Scalloped Tomato 


Mashed Potato Stewed Asparagus 


Mashed Lima Beans 


Scalloped Beans 


Boiled Wheat 


Cracked Wheat 


Graham Bread Rye Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Oatmeal Bread Cream Rolls Graham Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Macaroni Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Pudding 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Prune Toast 

Breakfast Rolls Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Graham Crackers 

Lettuce Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 

Graham Gruel with Cwiutons Asparagus Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 

Potato Cakes 

Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


Bean and Tomato Soup 


DINNER 


Mashed Potatoes Stewed Split Peas Radishes 


Potato Soup 


Asparagus with Cream Sauce 


Baked Potatoes Spinach Succotash 


Rolled Wheat 


Granola Fruit ]\Iush 


Whole-Wheat Bread Currant Puffs 


Currant Puffs Sticks (Traham P.read 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit 


Tapioca Jelly 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Tomato with Vermicelli Soup 


Rolled Wheat Prune Toast 


Mashed Peas Creamed Potato Lettuce 


Fruit Bread Cream Rolls Graham Crisps 


Browned Rice 


Lettuce 


Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Custard Pie 



C5oSj 



TW^KNTV-THIRO W^KEK. 



KIRSr DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


liUKAKI'-ASr 


BKEAKFASr 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


l\M-e;iIiiK.- Flakes liruiai.a 'I'l.asl 


Mixed Mush Tomato Toast 


llealcn liiscuit I'.ialiam I'ulfs 


Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Puffs 


Lettuce 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


UIN.NEK 


DINNER 


Cream Pea Soup 


Split Pea Soup 


I'laked Potato with Brown Sauee 


Potato Cakes Si)inach 


Scalloped Tomato 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Asparagus witli Egg Sauce 


Rolled Rye 


Graham Grits 


Sally Luun Gems Cream Mu;,h Rolls 


Fruit llrcail Graham Gems 'loasted Wafers 


Toasted \\'afers 


Stcued Fruit TJanaua Sluirtcake 


Stewed Fruit Cocoanut Rii.e Custard 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BKKAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Jellied (Oatmeal Asparagus Toast 
(jraliani Gems Cream iNIush Roil^ 


Rolled Wheat Prune To;ist 
Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 
DINNER 


Graham Gems 
Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 


Cream Rice Soup 


Brown Soup 


Baked Beans Stewed Dried Corn 


Baked Potato Stewed Asparagus 


Lettuce 

Cracked ^Vheat with Raisins 

Crusts Toasted Wafers Raised L'iscuit 

Stewed Fruit 


Mashed Lentils with Beans 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 


Almond Cream 


Farina Pie 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush Snowtlake Toast 

Whole-Wheat liread Toasted Wafers 

Currant Puffs 

Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Porridge with Croutons 

Asparagus Toast 

\\'hole-Wheat Puffs Cream Crisps Crescents 

Stewed Fruit 

White Custard in Cups 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Bean and Tapioca Soup 


Cream Barley Soup 


Mashed Potato Green Peas 


Steamed Potato Green Peas 


Macaroni Baked with Granola 


Stewed Corn and Tomato 


Rice 


Granola Fruit Mush 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers Crusts 


Graham Gems Cream Crisps Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Floating Islands 


Banana Dessert 


SABE 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Tomato Soup with Vermicelli 


Rolled Rye Grape Toast 


Slewed Asparagus Mashed Peas 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Rice with Raisins 


Crescents Fruit Rolls 


Graham Biscuit Fruit Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Nuts 



509 



TWENTY=KOURTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Figs Gravy Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 

Graham Bread 

Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 

DINNEK 

, Vegetable Broth with Croutons 

Baked Potato Asparagus Points 

Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce 

Rolled Rye 

Whole-Wheat Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Rice INIeringue 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Granola Fruit Mush Cream Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Fruit Crackers 

Fresh Strawberries 

DINNER 

Asparagus Soup 

Scalloped Potatoes Spinach with Cream 

Stewed Corn Cottage Cheese 

Pearl Barley 

Sticks Graham Gems Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Farina Custard 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Gruel with Croutons 

Snowflake Toast 

Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Breakfast Rolls Strawberries 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Stewed Potatoes Asparagus with Green Peas 

Scalloped Tomato 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Currant Puffs 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

Oatmeal Blancmange with Fruit Sauce 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Browned Rice Tomato Toast 

Boiled Macaroni 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 

Lettuce Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lentil Soup 

Mashed Potatoes Green Peas 

Macaroni Baked with Granola 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Graham Crisps 

Fresh or Stewed Berries 

Bread Custard 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Gravy Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 

Strawberries 

DINNER 

Plain Rice Soup 

Potato Cakes Mashed Split Peas 

Stewed Corn and Tomato 

Pearl Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls 

Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Strawberry Shortcake 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Fresh Berry Toast 

Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Crusts 

Toasted Wafers 

Lettuce 

Fresh or Stewed Berries 

DINNER 

Corn and Bean Soup 

Baked Potato Boiled Macaroni 

Asparagus with Egg Sauce 

Rolled Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Rye Gems 

Strawberries Lemon Cornstarch Pudding 



SABBATH 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Prune Toast 

Graham Raised Biscuit Toasted Waters 

Cream Rolls 

Cup Custard Strawberries 



DINNER 

Green Pea Soup 
Canned Okra and Tomato Stewed Asparagus 

Rice 

Fruit Rolls Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Strawberries Sliced Pineapple 



510) 



tw^enty=p^ikth: week. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BRliAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Cerealiiie Flakes Frcsli IJerry Toast 


Graham Grits Gruel with Croutons 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 


Gravy Toast Rice witli Lentil (jravy 


Graham l!read 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


Toasted Wafers 




Stewed Fruit 


DlNNliR 






DINNER 


Plain Rice Soup 


'I'omato and Macaroni Soup 


Mashed Potato Mashed Peas 


IJakcd Potato String Beans 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Asparagus with Egg Sauce 


Rolled Wheat 


Baked Barley 


(iiaham lircad Sally Lunn Gems Slicks 


Currant Puffs Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit Gooseberry Tart 


Strawberries Sliced Pineapple 


SECOND DAY 


FIFPH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Rye Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


liruwued Rice Grape Toast 


Lettuce 


Whulc-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Sticks Toasted Wafers 


Cream Rolls 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


Lettuce Fresh or Stewed Berries 


DINNER 






DINNER 


Cream Pea Soup 




Potato Cakes Spinach Scalloped Tomato 


Swiss Lentil Soup 


Boiled Wheat 


Baked Potato Green Peas Summer Squish 


Whole-Wheat Bread Rye Putfs 


Farina with Bananas 


Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls 


Strawberries 


Graham Gems 


Molded Rice with Strawberry Sauce 


Strawberry Shortcake 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 




BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Cream Toast 


Graham Mush Prune Toast 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Cream Rolls Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 


(Iraham Gems Toasted Wafers 


Lettuce Strawberries 


Cottage Cheese Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Swiss Potato Soup 


Green Pea Soup 


Boiled Potato with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Mashed PoUito Scalloped Cauliflower 


• 


Stewed Lima Beans 


Green Peas Macaroni with Kornlet 




Molded Wheat with Fruit Sauce 


Graham Grits 


Fruit Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Toasted Wafers Currant Puffs 


Toasted Wafers 


Oatmeal Bread 


Cherries on Stems 


Stewed Fruit 




Farina Blancnianjje with Cocoanut Sauce 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Corn Soup 




Potato Cakes String Beans 


Granola Fruit Mush Snowflake Toast 




Rice 


Beaten Biscuit Date Bread Toasted Wafers 


Date Bread Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Strawberries 


Stewed Fruit Strawberry Pie 



(511) 



tw"Enxy=si:n:th vv^eek. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 




BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 






Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Graham Clrits Fresh Berry Toast 


CTraiiola Fruit Mush Strawberry Toast 


Graham Crisps Graham Bread 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Beateu Biscuit 


I'rench Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


String Bean Soup 


Bean and Potato Soup 


Mashed Potato Mushed Peas 


Mashed Potato 


Chopped Cabbage 


Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce 


Boiled Wheat 


INIacaroni Baked with Granola 


Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Crisps 


Cracked Wheat with Raisins 


Toasted Wafers 


Graham Bread Cream j\Iush Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Tapioca Dessert with Strawberries 


Slewed Fruit Farina Blancmange 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Phun Porridge Gravy Toast 


Rice with Fig Sauce Snowflake Toast 


•Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Crisps 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 


Lettuce 


Graham Bread 


Breakfast Rolls and Currant Jelly 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 




Pea and Tomato Soup 


DINNER 


Baked Potato Summer Squash 


Tomato and Vermicelli Soup 


Browned Cauliflower 


Broiled Potato Succotash Summer Squash 


Pearl Wheat 


Pearl Barley 


Crusts White Bread Toasted Wafers 


Cream Rolls Crusts Zwieback 


Stewed Fruit 


Graham Bread 


Strawberry Sandwich 


Rice Cream Pudding 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Graham Mush Cherry Toast 


Cerealine Flakes Prune Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs White Bread 


Cottage Cheese 


Graham Crackers 


Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 


Strawberries 


Stewed Fruit 




DINNER 


DINNER 


Cream Barley Soup 


Potato Soup 


Boiled Potato Mashed Split Peas 


Green Peas Mashed Lentils Lettuce 


Scalloped Tomato 


Browned Rice 


Farina with Banana 


Whole-Wheat Bread Rye Gems 


Toasted Wafers Graham Puffs 


Graham Crisps 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Cherry Tait 


Strawberry Minute Pudding 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Cream Pea Soup 


Rolled Wheat Banana Toast 


Stewed Potato String Beans Rice 
Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 


Currant Buns Toasted Wafers 


Cream Rolls 


Breakfast Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Strawberries 


Fresh Cherries Banana Dessert 



(5i2j 



TVVENTV^SKVENXH WEKIv. 



riRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


nUKAKI-'AST 

Fresh Fruit 

Gi;Uuiiii Mush Cream Toast 

Boiled Macaroni 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Tomato Toast 

Toasted Fruit Rolls tirahani Puffs 


Fresh or Stewed Berries 


l.,ettucc Stewed Fruit 


UINNKK 
Potato Soup with Vermicelli 


UINNEK 


Mashed Potato lieet Greens 


Tomato and Macaroni Soup 


Pease Cakes with Tomato Sauce 


Beets and Potato String Beans 


Pearl Wheat 


Pearl Barley 


White Bread Graham Crisps Currant I'uffs 


Pop Overs Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Fresh or Stewed Fruit 


Prune Whip 


Gooseberry Tart 


SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


FIFl-H DAY 

BREAKFAST 


Boiled Wheat Fresli Berry Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


Cracked Wheat Porridge with CrinUons 


Toasted Wafers 


Macaroni with Raisins 


Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


DINNER 


Graham Crackers Lettuce 


Cream Pea Soui) 


Stewed Fruit 


Broiled Potatoes Summer Squash 


DINNER 


Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce 

Graham Grits 

Graham Bread Crusts P'ruil Crackers 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

Fruit Shape 


Cream Barley Soup 

Baked Potato Spinach Green Peas 

Cracked Wheat 

Rye Puffs Oatmeal Bread Graham Crisps 

Fruit Foam 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Cerealine Fresh Berry Toast 


Rice Snowflake Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 


Graham Gems Toasted Wafers Fruit Rolls 


Graham Crisps 


Fresh Berries 


Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 


DINNEK 

Lentil Soup 

.Mashed Potato Green Peas 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

lirowned Rice 

Fruit Rolls Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

I'Vesh Cherries 


DINNER 

Green Pea Soup 

Mashed Potato Stewed Lima Beans 

Stewed Dried or Fresh Corn 

Rice 

Oatmeal Bread Whole-Wheat I'ulfs 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Strawberry Shortcake 


SABP 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Tonuito and Vermicelli Soup 


Granola Fruit Mush Gravy Toaat 


l'ri>ilcd Potato Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Fruit Rolls Raised Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Browned Rice 


Stewed Fruit 


Beaten Biscuit Fruit Rolls 


Baked Bananas 


Strawberries Nuts 



iy-} 



TWENXV-EIGHTFI WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice with Raisins Cherry Toast 


Molded Rice with Fresh Berries 


Toasted Beaten Biscuit Graham Puffs 


Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Stewed or Fiesh Berries 


Graham Raised Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 


Cream Barley Soup 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


Baked Potatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Mashed Potato Beet Greens 


Summer Squash Green Peas 


Stewed Dried Corn 


Cracked Wheat 


Graham Grits 


Graham Puffs Toasted Wafere 


Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers Vienna Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Rice and Strawberry Dessert 


Fruit Tapioca 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


ISREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Wheat tiravy Toast 


Plunr Porridge Snowflake Toast 


M'hole-Wheat Puffs Toasted \\'afers 


Vienna Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Graham Bread 


Lettuce 


Lettuce Stewed Fruit 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Green Pea Soup 


Potato and Sago Soup 


Macaroni Baked with Graiiola 


Stewed Lima Beans Radishes 


String Beans Lettuce 


Boiled INIacaroni 


Boiled Wheat 


Hominy 


Cream Rolls Graham Bread 


Cream Rolls Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Berry Sandwich (prepared like Apple Sandwich). 


Berry Shortcake with Prepared Cream 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


■ BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 




Rolled Rye Fresh Berry Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Graliam Bread 

Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 


Fre>;h Fruit 

Granola Fruit Mush Tomato Toast 

French Rolls Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Tomato and IMacaroni Soup 


Lentil Soup 


Creamed Potato jNIashed Peas 


^Nlashcd Potato String Beans 


Cottage Cheese 


Canned Kornlet 


Pearl Wheal 


Cream Rolls Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Graliam Bread Toasted Wafers Crusls 


Stewed Fruit 


Slewed Fruit Furiua Fruit JNIold 


Red Sago Mold 


SABB 


ATI I 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


String Bean Soup 


Cerealine Prune Toast 


JNIacaroni with Egg Sauce 


Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 'I'oasted Wafers 


New Beets with Lemon Dressing Rice 


Steamed Figs Cottage Cheese 


Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers Plain Biuis 


Slewed or Fresh Berries 


Stewed Fruit Fruit and Nuts 



(5'4) 



XWKNT^'-NINI'H WEEK. 



I'IRSr DAY 

BREAKFAST 


IDrRIII DAY 

IIKLAKIAST 

Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fniit 


Snowflake Toast 


FJrewis Tomato Toast 


Rice with Lentil Gravy 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Beaten Biscuit 


(Jraham Raised Biscuits Breakfast Rolls 


Lettuce 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Fresh or Stewed Berries 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Potato Soup 

Mashed Peas Beet Greens 

Pearl Wheat 

Whulc-Wheat Bread P.uns Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Banana Dessert 


Cream Barley Soup 

Mashed Potato Scalloped Egg Plant 

Caulidowcr with Tomato Sauce 


Molded Wheat with Fruit Sauce 

(.:ream Rolls Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 


Raspberry Manioca Pudding 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresli Fruit 
Cerealine Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Fresh F'ruit 
Rolled Wheat Gravy Toast 


Fresh 'I'oniato Salad 
Graham Crisps Whole-Wheat PulK 


Cream Rolls Currant Puffs Toasted Wafers 
Radishes 


Slewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Steamed Potato String Beans Baked C^abbage 

Graham Grits 

Graham Crisps Whole-Wheat Bread 

Pop Overs 


Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

String Bean Soup 

Scalloped Potato Baked Beets Spinach 

Boiled Wheat with Lemon Sauce 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 
Cream Rice Pudding 


Graham Gems 
Fresh Berries Prune Dessert 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Graham (Jruel with Croutons 


Graham Mush Strawberry Toast 


Fresh Berry Toast 


Graham Crisps Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Fruit Crackers Breakfast Rolls 


Molded Rice with Currant Sauce 


Graham Bread 


DINNKK 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


Lentil Soup 

New Beets and Potato 

Summer Squash Green Peas 

Farina 

(ru-,!^ Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Fresh Berries 

Stewed Fruit Pudding 


DINNER 

(Jreen Pea Soup 

Creamed Potato Cabbage Salad 

Macaroni baked with Granola 


Rolled Rye 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Beaten Biscuit 

Kerry i'ie 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


'I'omato and Macaroni Soup 


Rolled Oats Fresh Black Raspberry Toast 


Stewed Potato String Beans 


(Jraham Bread Beaten Biscuit 


Boiled Wheal with Raisins 


Toasted Wafers 


Fruit Rolls Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit Cup Custard 


Fresh Berries Bananas 



(5«S) 



XHIRTIKTH WEKK:. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Farina with Bananas Gravy Toast 

Whole-Wheat Bread Fruit Rolls 

Toasted Beaten Biscuit 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

DINNER 

Baked Bean Soup 

Stewed Potato Green Peas Lettuce 

Graham Grits 

Graham Puffs Cream Crisps 

Black. Raspberries 

Rice Custard Shape 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Banana Toast 

Graham Gems Sticks Toasted Wafers 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

DINNER 

Velvet Soup 

Baked Potato Mashed Peas 

Macaroni with Tomato 

Pearl Wheat 

Currant Puffs Toasted Wafers Vienna Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Farina Blancmange with Raspberry Juice 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cracked Wheat Fresh Raspberry Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Parker House Rolls 

Lettuce Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Browned Potatoes Chopped Cabbage 

Green Corn 

Rice 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Black Raspberry Shortcake 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Crisps 

Cup Custard Fresh Berries 

DINNER 

Black Bean Soup 

Mashed Potato Mashed '1 in nip 

String Beans 

(Jraham Mush 

Graham Bread Cream Rolls Pop Overs 

Stewed Fruit 

Raspberry Tapioca 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Cream Toast 

Fresh Tomatoes 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Cream Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Celery Soup No. 2. 

Broiled Potato Beet Greens 

Scalloped Cauliflower 

Pearl Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Graham Fruit Bread 

Fresh Berries Snow Pudding 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Prune Toast 

Cottage Cheese 

Cream Rolls Fruit Bread Toasted AVafers 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

DINNER 

Lima Bean Soup 

Steamed Potato Boiled Beets 

Scalloped Egg Plant 

Cracked Wheat 

Fruit Bread Graham Gems Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Pudding 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Fresh Berry Toast 

Beaten Biscuit Graham Puffs 

Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Green Corn Soup 

Mashed Peas Cold Boiled Beets, Sliced 

Rice with Raisins 

Buns Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Nuts Fresh or Stewed Fruit 



(,^»6; 



TMIRTY=KIR^^T WKKK. 



FIRST DAY 

nRI'.AKFAS r 

I'resh Knill 

liriiuiied Riie Smiwllakc Toast 

Mataidiii with Raisins 

lii.dum I'racUers Graham Puffs Buns 

Stewed Fin it 

DINNER 

I'ea and Tomato Soup 

I'ntato Riie Baked Corn Celery 

Ciraham Grits 

(in rant Puffs Graham Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed or Fresh Fruit 

Red Rice Mold 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Gravy Toast 

Roiled Macaroni with Cottage Cheese 

Graham Bread Rye Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Brown Soup 

Baked Potatoes fireen Peas Beet Greens 

Boiled Wheat 

Graham Biscuit Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed or Fresh Berrie- 

Rice Custard Pudding 





THIRD DAY 








DREAKFAST 








Fresh Fruit 






Grnl 


am Mush with Dates 


Cream 


roast 




Graham Puffs 


Sticks 






Pulled Bread 








Stewed Fruit 








DINNER 







Cream Barley Soup 

Mashed Potato String Beans 

Summer Squash 

Cracked Wheat with Whortleberries 

Pulled Bread Graham Gems Toasted Wafer 

Stewed Fruit Watermelon 



FOURTH DAY 

HREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 

Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

Cream Graham Rolls with Raspberry Jelly 

DINNER 

String Bean Soup 

Stewed Split Peas Beets and Potato 

Pearl Wheal 

Graham Bread Toasted Rolls Rye (Sems 

Stewed Fruit 

Whortleberry Pudding 



FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Celery Toast 

Graham Gems Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers 

Fresh Berries 

DINNER 

Swiss Potato Soup 

Stewed Lima Beans Lettuce 

• Boiled Macaroni 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 

Fruit Crackers 

Fresh Berries Fruit Tapioca 



SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

c with Lemon Fresh Berry Toast 

("ream Mush Rolls Graham Puffs 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Bean and Potato Soup 

Green Corn Pulp Stewed Potato 

Chopped Turnip 

Graham Grits 

3 Overs Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Fresh Berries 

Cream Rice Pudding 



SABBATH 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cracked Wheat with Blueberries 

Prune i'oast 

Graham Crisps Raised Biscuit 

Stewed Fruit 



DINNER 

Green or Canned Pea Soup 

Creamed Potato Kornlet Celery 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Fruit Roll 

Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruil 



(5«7) 



THITRY^SECOND WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


r,raliam Mush Fresh Black Raspljerry Toast 


Rolled Wheat Tomato Toast 


Fresh Tomatoes 


Oatmeal C^risps Graham Bread 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Fruit Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Lima Bean Soup 


Cream Rice Soup 


Mashed Potato 


Boiled Potato with Brown Sauce 


Scalloped Cauliflower Mashed Peas 


Green Corn Pulp String Beans 


Graham Grits 


Pearl Wheat with Whortleberries 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Graham Gems Cream Crisps 


Whortlebeny Gems 


Stewed Fruit 
Raspberry Manioca Pudding 


Stewed or Fresh Fruit 
Molded Tapioca 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 
Graham Grits Gravy Toast 


13REAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Gruel with Croutons 

Fresh Berry Toast Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Lettuce . 

Breakfast Rolls AVhortleberry Gems 

Toasted Wafers 

Fresh or Stewed Berries 

DINNER 

Green Corn Soup 

Beets and Potato Scalloped Egg Plant 

Boiled Wheat 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Crusts 

Stewed or Fresh Berries 

Whortleberry Pie 


Graham Bread Breakfast Rolls 

Lettuce Baked Sweet Apples 

Fresh Berries 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Cracked Potato Scalloped Turnip 

Beet Greens 

Cracked Wheat with Blackberries 

Graham Bread Toasted Rolls Crusts 

Fresh or Stewed Fruit 

Banana Dessert 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Graham Mush with Blueberries Gravy Toast 


Fresh Tomatoes 


Fresh Tomatoes 


Graham Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


French Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


Graham Puffs 


Raspberry Jelly 


Fresh or Stewed Fr\iit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Tomato Cream Soup 


Yegetable Broth 


I'otato Rice Stewed Lima Beans Radishes 


Baked Potato Summer Squash 


Green Corn Pudding 


Boiled Beets, sliced, with Cream Sauce 


Graham Mush with Berries 


Pearl Barley 


Graham Gems Oatmeal Crisps 


Graham Bread Whortleberry Gems 


Graham Bread 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit Cream Rice Pudding 


Fresh Berries Damsons 


SABI 


iATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 

Blackberry Mush Prune Toast 

Crusts Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 


Tomato and Vermicelli Soup 
Stewed Potato Cold Sliced Beets 
Green Corn Pulp Rice 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Beaten Biscuit 


Fresh Berries 


Stewed Fruit Blackberry Pie 



ISiS 



' r T T T K T ^*- *r I T T !>: n w k p: k . 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Frviil 


Fresh Fruit 


Cerealine Flakes Snowllake 'lo:i-.t 


I'.lackberry Mush Tomato Toast 


Lettuit; 


Baked Sweet Apples 


I'eaten Biscuit Graham BreatI 


Graham Gems Toasted Wafers 


'I'oasted Wafers 


Raised Graham Biscuit 


Fresh Berries 


Fresh Berries 


UIN'NER 


DINNER 


Green Pea Soup 


Celery Soup No. 2 


Siallopod Potato Boiled Corn 


Boiled Potato Macaroni baked with Granola 


Cauliflower with Egg Sauce 


Succotash 


Graham Grits 


Browned Rice 


Grahun\ I'utfs Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Waters 


Sliced Peaches 


(jraham Puffs Stewed Fruit 


Nuts 


Blackberry Cornstarch Pudding 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 




BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 






Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatme:.l Porridge Berry Toast 


Rolled Rye Cream Toast 


Beaten Biscuit Graham Bread 


Whrrtleberry Gems Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Cream Rolls 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Fresh B'lackberries 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


Brown Soup 


15aked Potato String Beans 


Scalloped Potato Chopped Cabbage 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Mashed Peas 


Farina with Banana 


Rice 


Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers Graham Puffs 


Graham Bread Sticks 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


Plums and Peaches 


Bread Custard 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice with Peaches Blackberry Toast 


Granola Apple Mush Gravy Toast 


Fresh Tomatoes 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wlieat Puffs Sticks Toasted Wafers 


Graham Fruit Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 




String Bean Soup 


DINNER 


Mashed Potato Baked Gree.i Corn 


Cream Pea Soup 


Scalloped Egg Plant 


Boiled Potatoes Green Corn 


Graham Grits 


Sliced Tomatoes 


Whole-Wheat Bread (iraham Puffs 


Cracked Wheat with Blackberries 


Toasted Wafers 


Graham Bread Fruit Rolls Rye Gems 


Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit 


Sliced Peaches Pears 


SABI 


5ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Green Corn Soup 


Rolled Oats Prune Toast 


Boiled Macaroni Stewed Tomatoes Rice 


Sliced Tomatoes 


Fruit Bread Cream Crisps Toasted Wafers 


Fruit Bread Cream Crisps 


Stewed or Fresh Fruit 


Stewed or Sliced Peaches 


Blackberry or Peach Pie 



15'9 



'rHIRTV=KOXJRXM \\ KKIv. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

I'.lackberry Mush Ciruvy Toast 

(iraliam Puffs Fruit Bread Toasted ^\'afers 

Baked Sweet Apples 


FOURTH DAY 

P.RKAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Peach 'J'oast 

Macaroni with Corn Pulp 

Fresh Tomatoes 

Cream Rolls Vienna Bread Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed F'ruit 


DIXXKR 

Tomato Cream Soup 

Potato Snowballs Stewed Corn 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Rolled Wheat 

Rye Puffs Cream Rolls Graham Bread 


DINNER 

String Bean Soup 

]\Iashed Potato Scalloped Egg Plant 

Cabbage and Tomato 

Pearl Wheat 

Toasted Wafers 


Sliced Peaches 


Beaten Biscuit Vienna Bread 


Nuts 


Slewed Fruit " Fruit Shape 


SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Porridge Cream Toast 

Sliced Tomato 

Graham Crisps Graham Bread Rye Gems 

Stewed Fruit 


FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Granola Peach Mush 

Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Celery 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Cream Rohs 

Graham Crackers 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Lima Bean Soup 


DINNER 


Mashed Potato Summer Squash 

Baked Beets with Lemon Dressing 

Pearl Barley 

Graham Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 


White Celery Soup 

Steamed Potato Chopped Beets 

Mashed Peas 

Farina with Bananas 


Stewed or Fresh Berries 


Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Rolls Rye Puffs 


Peach Tapioca 


Sliced Peaches Baked Apple Dessert 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Wheat Tomato Toast 

Cottage Cheese 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 

Toasted Wafers 


Graham Grits Berry Toast 

Baked Sweet Apples Fresh Tomatoes 

Currant Puffs Toasted Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 


DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 
Baked Potato Stewed Celery 


Boiled Potato Scalloped Tomatoes 

Green Corn Pulp 

Graham Grits 


Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce 

Boiled Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Crackers 


French Rolls Cream Crisps 
Fresh Fruit 


Crescents 
Stewed F~ruit 


Sliced Sweet Apples and Cream 


Sago Fruit Pudding 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 


Steamed Rice Tomato Toast 


Creamed Potato Green Peas 


Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers Breakfast Rolls 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Stewed Fruit 


Pearl Wheat 

Fruit Bread Rolls Graham Crackers 

Sliced Peaches Nuts Tapioca Custard 



(520) 



rPilKTV-KlKTU W'KKK 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


(.'.raham Mush with Dates 


Peacli Mush Suowllake Toast 


Sliced Tomatoes 


Whrle-Wheat Puffs Sticks Hate Bread 


Macaroni with Egg Sauce 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Cream Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


UINNER 


Black Bean Soup 


Baked Beau Soup 


Potato Snowballs Corn and Tomatoes 


Steamed Potato Stewed Tomato 


Scalloped Egg Plant 


Mashed Split Peas 


Cracked Wheat 


Rolled Rye 


Date Bread Graham Gems 


Graham Bread Graham Puffs 


i'oasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Peach Shortcake 


Grapes 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFA si- 
Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Granola Peach Mush Cream Toast 

Sliced Tomatoes 
Graham Bread Graham Crisps 


Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Peach Toast 

Whole-Wheat Bread Breakfast Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 


Graham ( lems 
Baked Pears Stewed Fruit 


Celery Soup No. 2. 
r.oiled Potato Shelled Beans 


DINNER 

Tomato and Macaroni Soup 


Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce 

Graham Grits 

Graham Bread Oatmeal Gems 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 


Boiled Potato Baked Corn Celery 

Pearl Barley 

Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Puffs 

Toasted Wafers 
* Stewed Fruit 


Baked Sweet Apples with Whipped Cream 


Peach Shortcake 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Cerealine Flakes Strawberry Toast 


Oatmeal Tomato Toast 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Macaroni Baked with Corn Pulp 


Sliced Tomato 


Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Puffs 


Graham Puffs Parker House Rolls 


Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Cream Rice Soup 


Potato Soup 


Mashed Potato Stewed Celery 


Baked Sweet Potato Mashed I'cas 


Mashed Lentils and Beans 


Cauliflower with Egg Sauce 


Rolled Wheat 


Graham Grits 


Whole-Wheat Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Granola Fruit Rolls Graham Puffs 


Stewed Fruit Peach Meringue 


Stewed Fruit Rice Cream Pudding 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wlieat with Blackberries and Cream 

Prune Toast 

Fruit Rolls Raised Graham Biscuit 

Toasted Wafers 

Fresh Tomatoes Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Mashed Sweet Potato String Beans 

Pearl Wheat with Peaches and Cream 

Buns Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers 

Nuts 



(521 



TMIRTV=SIXTM week:. 



riRST PAY 


FOURTH DAY 




BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 






Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Tomato Toast 


Clraham Mush Blackberry Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 


Sliced Tomato 


Toasted Wafers 


Currant Puffs Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DIXXEK 


DIXXER 


Swiss Potato Soup 


Tomato and Rice Soup 


Steamed Potato Boiled Beets 


Baked Sweet Potato Mashed Beans 


Stewed Lima Beans 


Green Peas 


Rolled Wheat 


Graham Grits 


Buns Graham Puffs 


Oatmeal Bread Graham Puffs 


Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit Peach Sandwich 


Sliced Peaches Red Rice 


SECOND DAY 






FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 




Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Rolled Wheat Apricot Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Zwieback 


Cracked Wheat Banana Toast 


Graham Puffs Breakfast Rolls 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Lemon Apples Stewed Fruit 


Oatmeal Bread Graham Gems Toasted Wafers 


DIXXER 


Stewed Fruit 


Lima Bean Soup 




Potato Stewed with Celery Mashed Squash 


DINNER 


Scalloped Tomatoes 


Celery Soup 


Farina 


Mashed Potato Baked Tomato 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls 


Baked Green Corn 


Graham Gems 


Graham Grits 


Sliced Peaches » 


Graham Bread Sticks Rye Puffs 


Bran Jelly with Fruit Sauce 


Stewed Fruit Baked Apple Dessert 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


C.ranola Apple Mush Blueberry Toast 


Rice Cream Toast 


Cream Rolls Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Corn Cakes Sticks 


Toasted Wafers 


Sliced Tomatoes 


Sliced Tomatoes Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 






DINNER 


Corn and Bean Soup 




Baked Potato Stewed Tomato 


Potato and Rice Soup 


Scalloped Cauliflower 


Macaroni Baked with Grauola 


Pearl Wheat 


Mashed Cabbage String Beans 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls 


Pearl Wheat 


Corn Puffs 


Pop Overs Cream Crisps Graham Bread 


Stewed Fruit P'arina Custard 


Stewed Fruit Almonds 


SABI 


3ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 




Green Corn Soup Tomato and Macaroni 


Fresh Fruit 


Stewed Potato 


Rolled Oats Tomato Toast , 


Rolled Wheat 


Toasted Wafers Fruit Rolls Raised Biscuit 






Fruit Bread Cream Crisps 


Baked Pears Stewed Fruit 






Stewed Fruit Peach Pie Grapes 



(522) 



'T^ H I KX V- S E V E N T II \V E E Pv . 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

("err.ili.ie Flakes 'I'uast wllh Kgg Saiue 

I'ruit Hread Breakfast Rolls 

Toasted Wafers 

I'.aked Sweet Apples Sliced I'eaclies 

DINNHR 

Ijreen Ueaii Sovip 

Mashed Potato Baked S<iiiasli 

(oni Pudding 

C.rahain Grits 

I'.raliauL Bread Currant Puffs 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 
Peach Shortcake 

SECOXD DAY 

BREAKl-AST 

Fresh Fruit 

]'each Mush 'I'ornato Toast 

Macaroni with Kornlet 

('.raham liread Cream ^iusll Rolls 

Stewed Fruit 

DIN- NEK 

Cream Pea Soup 

Baked P..tato Shelled Beans 

Catdiflower with Tomato Sauce 

P»rowned Rice 

Toasted Rolls C.rahani I'.read 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Jam Pudding 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

{ )atmeal Porridge Peach Toast 

Sliced Tomato 

("■raham Crisps C>raham C.ems 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Scalloped Potato Beet Salad 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Rice 

Whole- W'htat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Molded Wheat with Grape Sauce 



FOURTH DA\' 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits 

Dry Toast with Tomato Gra\y 

Whole-Wheat Bread Crusts Breakfast Rolls 

Baked Pears Stewed I''ruit 

DINNER 

White Celery Soup 

Baked Sweet Potato Mashed I'eas 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Pearl Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread Beaten Biscuit 

Graham Crackers 

Stewed Fruit 

Cocoanut Rice Custard 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 
Rolled Oats Macaroni with Api)le Sauce 

Sliced Tomato 
Whole-Wheat Puffs 'I'oasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lentil Soup 

Mashed Potato Baked Squash 

String Beans 

Rolled Rye 

Whole-Wheat Bread Crusts Graham Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

Peach Pudding or Fresh Fruit 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Fruit Gravy 'I'oast 

Whole-^\'heat Puffs Crescents 

Toasted Wafers 
I:'aked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Split Pea Soup 

I'.aked Potato Baked Tomato 

Green Corn Pulp 

Rice 

I'ruit Loaf Graham Gems Sticks 

Stewed Fruit 

Sweet Apple Pie or Fresh I'mit 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Peach Toast 

Sliced Tomato Baked Pears 

Fruit Bread P>eaten Biscint 

Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Green Corn Soup 

Steued Lima Beans Mashed Sweet Potato 

Rice with Peaches 

Beaten Biscuit Currant Buns 

Stewed Fruit Pears 



( 523 ) 



X H 1 KT \'= 1^ 1 a FIX H W E K Iv . 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Peach Mush Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Toasted Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Bean and Tapioca Soup 

Washed Potato Stewed Celery 

Baked Squash 

Rolled Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread Currant Puffs 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Peach Tapioca 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Lentil Toast 

Sliced Tomato 

Cream Rolls Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Lentil Soup 

Potato Snowballs Stewed Tomato 

Egg and Macaroni 

Browned Rice 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Rolls Crusts 

Stewed Fruit 

Plain Fruit Pudding 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Sweet Apple Toast 

Cottage Cheese 

Whole-Wheat Puffs French Rolls 

Graham Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Plain Rice Soup 

Baked Potato with Celery Sauce 

Shelled Beans Baked Corn 

Farina with Fresh Fruit 

Graham Puffs Oatmeal Crisps 

Stewed Fruit 

Fresh Fruit, or Sweet Apple Pudding 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

F'resh Fruit 

Rice with Peaches Tomato Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Oatmeal Crisps 

Breakfast Rolls 

Sliced Peaches 

DINNER 

Shelled Bean Soup 

Mashed Sweet Potato Scalloped Tomatoes 

Celery 

Pearl Wheat 

Toasted Rolls Buns Graham Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Apple Manioca 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Strawberry Toast 

Graham Bread Toasted Waters Rye Gems 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 

Mashed Potato Mashed Squash 

Boiled Macaroni 

Browned Rice 

Graham Bread Beaten Biscuit 

Fruit Crackers 

Stewed Fruit Cup Custard 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Macaroni with Raisins 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Cream Rolls Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Brown Soup 

Boiled Potato Stewed Celery 

Pease Cakes with Tomato Sauce 

Graham Grits 

Raised Biscuit Graham Gems 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Grape Tart 



SABBATH 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice Grape Toast 

Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 



Tomato and Vermicilli Soup 

Mashed Sweet Potato Stewed Corn 

Boiled Wheat 

Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuits 

Stewed Fruit 

Farina Blancmange with Grape Sauce 



(524: 



THIRTY-NINTH WEEK:. 



I'IRbT DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graiiula Fruit Mush Gravy Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Heaii and Tomato Soup 

Mashed Potato Boiled Green Coin 

String Beans 

Rolled Wheat 

Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat Bread 

Corn Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

Stewed Fruit Pudding 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Peach Musli Suowflake Toast 

Graham Puffs Cream Rolls 

Baked Pears Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Green Bean Soup 
Potato Cakes Stewed Tomato Baked Beets 

Cracked Wheat 

Pop Overs Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Bread Custard 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Tomato Toast 

Graham Bread Corn Puffs Graham Crisps 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Mixed Potato Soup 

Baked Potato Cliopped Beets Succotash 

Graham Grits 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Rye Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Cracked Wheat Pudding 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Cream Tuast 

Cottage Cheese 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Ciraham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

Mashed Potato Stewed Celery 

Corn Pudding 

Rolled Wheat 

Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers Buns 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice and Tapioca Pudding 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

F"resh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Raised Biscuit 

Toasted Wafers 

Baked Sour Apples 

Stewed Fruil 

DINNER 

Green Corn Soup 

Steamed Potato Mashed Squash 

Scalloped Turnip 

Rolled Wheat 

Crusts Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit Lemon Cornstarch Pudding 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Gruel with Croutons 

Grape Toast Macaroni with Kornlet 

Creain Rolls Graham Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Swiss Potato Soup 

Creamed Potato Celery 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Cracked Wheat 

Graham Bread Toasted Rolls Fruit Crackers 

Stewed Fruit 

Snowball Custard 



SABBATH 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Peaches Apricot Toast 

Toasted Wafers Fruit Rolls 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit 



DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Chopped Sweet Potato Sliced Tomato 

Rice 

Whole-Wheat Bread Fruit Rolls 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Grape Pie 



(525) 



KORXIETH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Grape Mush Cream Toast 


Granola Apple Mush Grape Toast 


Graham Gems Toasted Rolls 


Cream Rolls Rye Gems 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Bread 


DINNER 


Cup Custard Stewed Fruit 


Potato and Vermicelli Soup 


DINNER 


Boiled Macaroni Stewed Lima Beans 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


Boiled Corn 


Baked Potato Baked Squash 


Cracked Wheat 


Boiled Beets with Cream Sauce 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Corn Cakes 


Pearl Wheat 


Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Sticks 


Stewed Fruit 


Raised Corn Bread 


Cornstarch Meringue 


Stewed Fruit Nuts 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 




Rolled Oats Celery Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Baked Sweet Potatoes 


Rolled Rye Gravy Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Oatmeal Crisps Corn Bread 


Graham Bread 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Tomato Salad 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Lima Bean Soup 


Vegetable Soup 


Mashed Potato Scalloped Tomatoes 


Mashed Potato Scalloped Egg Plant 


Green Corn Cakes 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Mixed Mush 


Rolls Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 


Sally Lunn Gems Graham Bread 


Farina 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Rice Snow 


Almond Cornstarch Pudding with Grape Sauce 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice Tomato Toast 


Grape Mush Cream Toast 


Graham Crisps Raised Biscuit 


Fruit Bread Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Grape Apples Stewed Fruit 


Granola 


DINNER 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Brown Soup 




Potato Snowballs Stewed Split Peas 


DINNER 


Scalloped Cauliflower 


Baked Bean Soup 


Graham Grits 


Potato Rice INIashed Squash 


Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Crisps 


Boiled Green Corn 


Corn Puffs 


Graham Mush 


Stewed Fruit 


Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers Graham Puffs 


Farina Blancmange with Grape Sauce 


Stewed Fruit Apple Sandwich 


SABF 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Tomato and Vermicelli Soup 


Rice with Fig Sauce Peach Toast 


Mashed Sweet Potato Green Corn Pulp 


Sliced Tomato 


Boiled Wheat 


Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Grape Tarts 



(526) 



KORTY=KIRST WEEK. 



FIRST DAV 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Browned Rice (">rape Toast 

Toasted Beaten Biscuit Graham Puffs 


IfREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Dates (iravy 7 oast 

Rye Bread Toasted Wafers 

Corn Puffs 

Lemon Ai)ples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 


Baked Sweet Apples 
Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


Cream Pea Soup 


Corn and Tomato Soup 


Scalloped Potato Chopped Turnip 


Sweet Potato Cakes Shelled Beans 


Macaroni Baked with Kornlet 


Macaroni Baked with Grauola 


Steamed Rice 


Farina 


Toasted Wafers Currant Puffs Rye Bread 


Graham Puffs Zwieback Cream Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit 


Cornmeal Pudding 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Grauola Apple Mush Gravy Toast 


Rolled Rye Tomato Toast 


Sliced Tomato 


Graham Bread Breakfast Rolls 


Toasted Rolls Corn Dodgers 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Shelled Bean Soup 


Swiss Potato Soup 


Baked Potato with Brown Sauce 


Baked Beans Boiled Macaroni 


Chopped Cabbage Baked Tomato 


Boiled Wheat 


Pearl Barley 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Graham Puffs Sticks Rye Bread 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Rice Cream Pudding 


Rice and Tapioca Pudding 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Porridge 


Rice with Lentil Gravy Gravy 'J'oast 


Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Sliced Tomato 


Rye Bread Toasted Wafers Graham Puffs 


Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Baked Sour Apples 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Corn and Bean Soup 


Tomato and Rice Soup 


Mashed Potato Scalloped Tomato 


Steamed Potato with Cream Sauce 


Stewed Celery 


Baked Squash Mashed Peas 


Cracked Wheat 


Graham Apple Mush 


Graham Bread Zwieback Crusts 


Rye Bread Zwieback Graham Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit 


Graham Grits Pudding 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 

K oiled Oats Grape Toast 

Grah.uu Raised Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Breakfast Rolls 

Baked Sweet Apples 

I'np Custard Stewed Fruit 


Tomato and Macaroni Soup 

Broiled Potato Stewed Corn 

Browned Rice 

(iraham Biscuit Beaten Biscuit 

Stewed Fruil Apple Pi'" 



(527 



KORrv=SECOND WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Ceiealine Flakes Gravy ToasL 


Steamed Rice with Grape Sauce 


Caked Peas 


Prune Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Beaten Bircuit 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers Crusts 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked Pears Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Celery Soup 


Swiss Lentil Soup 


Boiled Potato with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Baked Potato Baked Sciuash 


Baked Cauliflower Shelled Beans 


Chopped Cabbage 


Graham Grits 


Boiled Wheat 


Currant Puffs Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Graham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Tapioca Grape Jelly 


Rice Snowballs 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 




' BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 






Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Lentil Toast 


Oatmeal Tomato Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Rolls 


Graham Bread 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 




Tomato and Macaroni Soup 


Potato Soup 


Baked Sweet Potato Stewed Celery 


Mashed Peas Mashed Cabbage 


Boiled Green Corn 


Cracked Wheat 


Rolled Rye , 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Crisps 


Graham Bread Currant Puffs Sticks 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Rice Cream Pudding 


Molded Wheat with Grape Sauce 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 




Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Grahanr Mush Grape Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Oatmeal Gruel with Croutons 


Graham Gems 


Tomato Toast 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Graham Crisps Graham Bread Pop Overs 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Cream Pea Soup 


DINNER 


Steamed Potato Boiled Beets Celery 


Green Corn Soup 


Tomato and Macaroni 


Chopped Potato Baked Beans 


Rice 


Mashed Squash 


Parker House Rolls Graham Gems 


Farina 


Toasted Wafers 


Cream Mush Rolls Vienna Bread 


Stewed Fruit 


Slewed Fruit 


Cracked Wheat Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Pudding 


SABE 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Bean and Potato Soup 


Cracked Wheat with Raisins 


Stewed Corn Boiled Macaroni 


Prune Toast 


Granola Fruit Mush 


Vienna Bread Beaten Biscuit Toasted Rolls 


Buns Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Nuts Fresh Fruit 



( ,S2S ) 



1 'OK'TY-TIilRD WEEK. 





FOURTH DAY 


FIKST DAY 






UKEAKKAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Gravy Toast 


Granola Apple Musli 


Cream Rolls Whole-Wheat Breatl 


Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Toasted Wafers 


Wliole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Beaten Biscuit 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed I'ruit 


UINMiK 


DINNER 




Bean and Tomato Soup 

Mashed Potato Chopped Beets 

Macaroni Baked with Granola 


Celery Soup 


Mushed Potato Scalloped Tomato 




Mashed Peas 




Graham Grits 


Whole-Wheat Bread Graham (lems 


Corn Puffs Cream Crisps Graham Gems 




Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit 


Cream Crisps 




Stewed Fruit Farina Blancmange 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


breakA^st 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Wheat Tomato Toast 


Oatmeal Blancmange with Grape Sauce 


Cieam Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 


Sweet Apple Toast 


Graham Gems 


Corn Meal Gruel with Croutons 


(".rape Apples Stewed Fruil 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Cream Crisps 


DINNEK 


French Rolls 


Cream Pea Soup 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked Potatoes with Brown Sauce 


DINNER 


Shelled Beans Corn and Tomato 


Tomato Cream Soup 


Graham Grits 


Mashed Potato Mashed Squash Baked Turnip 


Toasted Rolls Whole-Wheat Bread 


Pearl Wheat with Raisins 


Currant Puffs 


Whole-Wheat Bread Graham Crusts 


Stewed Fruit 


Toasted Wafers 


Baked Sweet Apples with Whipped Cream 


Stewed Fruit Rice Custard 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






breakfast 


Fresh Fruit 




Oatmeal Porridge with Croutons 


Fresh Fruit 


Grape Toast 


Rolled Rye Peach Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Sticks Fruit Crackers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked Pears Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Plain Rice Soup 


Cream Barley Soup 


Baked Potatoes with Celery Sauce 


Scalloped Potato Succotash 


Mashed Beans Parsnip with Cream Sauce 


Scalloped Tomato 


Graham Grits 


Graham Grits 


Corn Bread Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Graham Puffs Graham Bread Sticks 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


Plain Fruit Pudding 


SABE 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


UINNEl' 


Fresh Fruit 


Corn Soup 


Granola Fruit Mush Prune Toast 


Canned Green Peas Tomato and Macaroni 


Beaten Biscuit Buns Toasted Wafers 


Graham Grits 


Baked Chestnuts 


Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 


(.'up Custard Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Squash Pie 



34 



( 529 ) 



KORXY-KOURTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Almonds with Wafers 

Cerealine Steamed Eggs 

Baked Potato 

Toasted l^eaten Biscuit Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Potato Soup 

Macaroni with Cream Sauce 

INIashed Beans Baked Corn 

Browned Rice 

Graham Bread Cream Crisps Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Baked Sweet Apple Pudding 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Cream Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Cream Crisps 

Fruit Rolls 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Bean and Tomato Soup 
Potato Rice Mashed Squash 

Stewed Celery- 
Cracked Wheat 
Graham Puffs Fruit Rolls Toasted Wafers 
Stewed Fruit 
Macaroni Pudding 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Granola Peach Mush Snowflake Toast 

Macaroni with Kornlet 

Cream Mush Rolls Fruit Loaf 

Graham Crackers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Oatmeal Soup 

Potato Cakes Celery 

Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce 

Hominy 

Fruit Loaf Toasted Rolls Graham Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Snow Pudding 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cracked Wheat 

Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Hominy Gems Toasted Wafers 

Graham Bread 

Cottage Cheese Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Black Bean Soup 

Potato Snowballs Scalloped Tomato 

Parsnip with Egg Sauce 

Rolled Wheat 

Corn Puffs Whole-Wheat Bread 

Cream Crisps 

Stewed Fruit Farina Blancmange 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Grits Berry Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Crescents Granola 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Mashed Potato Carrots with Egg Sauce 

Scalloped Beans 

Rice 

Graham Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Prune and Tapioca Pudding 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat with Baked Apples 

Gravy Toast 

Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Cream Rolls and Crab Apple Jelly 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Tomato and Macaroni Soup 

Baked Sweet Potato . Stewed Celery 

Shelled Beans 

Pearl Barley with Raisins 

Graham Bread Corn Cake Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Tapioca Custard 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Blackberry Toast 

Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread 

Lemon Apples Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Plain Rice Soup 
Warmed-over Sweet Potato Stewed Corn 

Boiled Wheat 

Graham Bread Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Nuts 



CS30) 



t^^ORXV^KIKTH WEKK'. 



FIRST DAY 


I'OURl'H \K\y 


BREAKFAST 


HKEAKFASI- 


Fresh Fruit 


I'resh Fruit 


Oatmeal Porridge 


Plum Porridge I'.erry 'I'nast . 


])ry Toast with Hot Cream 


Graham Crackers Hoc Cake 


l^urn Puffs . Toasted Wafers Fruit Loaf 


Whole-Wheat Pufts 


Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 




DINNKR 


DINiNEK 






'i'omalo and Macartuii Soup 


Vegetable Soup 


Boiled Potato with Celery Sauce 


Steamed J'otatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Baked Beets Stewed Lima Beans 


Stewed Cabbage iNIashed Squash 


I'^arina 


Pearl Wheat 


Raised Corn Cake Tnasted Waf<-rs 


Graham Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Cream Rnlls 


Stewed Fruit Sago Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 




Samp and Milk Gravy Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Rice witli Fig Sauce Cream Tna-t 


Hoe Cake 


Currant Puffs Graham Bread 


I'.aked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Toasted Wafers 


DINM-.K 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Swiss Lentil Soup 


DIXM'.K 


iMa-.lied Potatoes Celery and Tomato 


Cream Pea Soup 


Turnip with Cream Sauce 


Browned Pntatues Succotash 


( )atmeal Crisps Graham Bread 


Steamed Squasli 


Toasted Wafers 


Graham Grits 


Graham Grits 


Graham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


I'.aked Corn Meal Pudding 


Farina Custard 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 




Rolled Oats Banana Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Breakfast Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Oatmeal Lentil Tua-.t 


C.raham I'.read Granola 


Macaroni witli T..nuito Sauce 


Baked Sweet Apples 


Cream Rolls Rno Bread Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit * Roasted Almonds 


DINNKR 


1)1xm:i.: 


Swiss Potato Soup 


Potato Soup 


Mashed Potato Mashed Peas 


Potato Puff Browned Parsnips 


Broccoli with Egg Sauce 


Celery Mashed Peas 


Cracked Wheat with Raisins 


Rolled Wheat 


'I'oasted Rolls Graham Puffs 


Rye Bread Whole-Wlieat Pulfs 


Stewed Fruit 


Graham Crisps 


Nuts 


Apple Rose Cream 


SABB 


ATH 


BRKAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Cream Pea Soup 


Rolled Wlieat Prune Toast 


Slewed Potato Rornlct and Tomal.. Ri.e 


Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 


Rye Bread Buns Toasted Wafers 


White Custard in Cups 


Stewed Fniit 


Stewed Fruit 


Apple Pie Fresli Fruit 



(530 



KORTY^SIXTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Graham Mush with Dates Gravy Toast 


Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 


Rye Bread Toasted Wafers 


Rice and Corn Puffs Graham Bread 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Toasted Wafers 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 




Canned Green Pea Soup 


DINNER 


Scalloped Potatoes Baked Beans 


Potato Soup 


Macaroni with Egg 


Macaroni Baked with Granola 


Farina 


Succotash Baked Squash 


Pop Overs Toasted Wafers Rye Bread 


Pearl Barley 


Stewed Fruit 


Pulled Bread Oatmeal Crisps Graham Puffs 


Rice Cream Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 




Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST 


Graham Grits Blackberry Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Rice with Lentil Gravy 


Rolled Wheat Celery Toast 


Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers Rye Bread 


Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Corn Cakes Pulled Bread Oatmeal Crisps 


DINNER 


Stewed Fruit 


Bean and Hominy Soup 


DINNER 


Boiled Potatoes Stewed Celery 


Cream Barley Soup 


Creamed Parsnips 


Baked Sweet Potato 


Pearl Wheat 


Scalloped Tomatoes Celery 


Raised Corn Bread Toasted Wafers 


Pearl Wheat 


Graham Gems 


-Rye Gems Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apple Dessert 


Bread Custard 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit ' 


Fresh Fruit 


Samp and Milk Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Mixed Mush Snowflake Toast 


Corn Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Graham Bread Cream Rolls 


Breakfast Rolls 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 




Tomato Cream Soup 


DINNER 


Potatoes Stewed with Celery 


Brown Soup 


Parsnips with Egg Sauce Mashed Peas 


Scalloped Potatoes Beet Salad Mashed Turnips 


Oatmeal Blancmange with Cranberry Sauce 


Boiled Wheat 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 


Hoe Cake Toasted Rolls Graham Bread 


Raised Corn Cake 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Cracked Wheat Pudding 


Nuts 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Corn Soup 


Rice with Fig Sauce Cream Toast 


Canned Peas Macaroni with Egg Sauce 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Buns 


Cracked Wheat 


Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Cranberry Pie 



(53- 



KOK'rv^t^KVKNTH WEEK. 



FIRST DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Corn Meal Mush and Milk Clravy 'loast 


Oatmeal Cream Toast 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Fruit Bread 


Potato Cakes Celery 


Toasted Beaten Biscuit 


Corn Bread Graham Gems Toasted Wafers 


Baked Chestnuts Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Combination Soup 


Parsnip Soup 


Baked Potato with Brown Sauce 


Scalloped Potatoes Mashed Peas 


Scalloped Turnips Mashed Squash 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


Graham tjrits 


Steamed Rice 


Raised Corn Cake Graham Gems 


Wholewheat Bread Graham Gems 


Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tapioca 


Stewed Fruit Cup Custards 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


BREAKFAST "* 


Graham Gruel with Toasted Wafers 


Fresh Fruit 


Blueberry Toast 


Oatmeal Porridge with Toasted Wafers 


Breakfast Rolls Corn Bread 


Gravy Toast 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Hoe Cake 


DINNER 


Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 


Swiss Potato Soup 


DINNER 


Baked Sweet Potato Mashed Beans 


Cream Pea Soup 


Stewed Sweet Corn 


Baked Potato Boiled Macaroni 


Cracked Wheat 


Stewed Cabbage and Tomato 


Toasted Rolls Pulled Bread 


Graham Grits 


Graham Puffs 


Zwieback Graham Bread Corn Puffs 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Rice Cream Pudding 


Apple Rose Cream 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 


Rolled Wheat with Raisins Banana Toast 


Macaroni with Kornlet 


Hoe Cake Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 


Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Rye Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Vegetable Oyster Soup 


Plain Rice Soup 


Bulled Potatoes with Tomato Cream Sauce 


Mashed Potatoes Baked Squash 


Mashed Parsnips Mashed Lentils 


Scalloped Beans 


Graham Grits 


Graham Mush 


Whole-Wheat Bread Bean Gems 


Whole-Wheat Bread Oatmeal Crisps 


Toasted Wafers 


Graham Crusts 


Stewed Fruit Almonds 


Stewed Fruit Baked Apple Loaf 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Lima Bean Soup 


Rolled Rye Prune Toast 


Mashed Sweet Potatoes Scalloped Tomato 


Beaten Biscuit Whole-Wheat Bread 


Rice 


C'iraliam Crackers 


Fruit Bread Beaten Biscuit 


(.irape Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Farina Blancmange 



(533) 



KORXY^EIGHTH WEE^K. 



FIRST DAY 

IIREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Dates Blackberry Toast 

\\'hole-Wheat Puffs Frviit Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Green Pea Soup 

Boiled Potato with Cream Sauce 

Mashed Lima Beans Stewed Vegetable Oysters 

Graham Grits 

Corn Puffs Toasted Wafers Graham Crusts 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice Custard Pudding 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Baked Chestnuts 

Samp and Milk Vegetable Oyster Toast 

Creamed Potatoes 

Toasted Wafers Graham Bread 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Bean and Tomato Soup 

Mashed Potato Stewed Split Peas 

Macaroni with Egg 

Cracked Wheat 

Parker House Rolls Sticks Corn Puffs 

Stewed Fruit Prune Tapioca 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Prune Toast 

Graham Sticks Fruit Loaf 

Baked Apples Roasted Almonds 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Swiss Potato Soup 

Baked Potato Boiled Beets with Cream Sauce 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Rolled Wheat 

Fruit Loaf Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Baked Apples with Whipped Cream 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Steamed Rice Lentil Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Crisps 

Fruit Bread 

DINNER 

Vegetable Oyster Soup 

Mashed Potato Parsnips with Egg Sauce 

Succotash 

Boiled Wheat with Lemon Sauce 

Graham Crisps Beaten Biscuit 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Cocoanut Blancmange Cranberry Jelly 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Gruel with Croutons 

Tomato Toast 

Macaroni with Raisins 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Beaten Biscuit 

Stewed Fruit Baked Apples 

DINNER 

Cream Barley Soup 

Mashed Sweet Potato Mashed Peas 

Stewed Celery 

Hominy 

Cream Crisps Corn Cake Graham Bread 

Stewed P'ruit Apple Tart 



SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Apple Mush 



Tomato Toast 
Cream Crisps Graham Bread 

Hominy Gems 
Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Boiled Potato Scalloped Tomatoes 

Mashed Squash 

Cracked Wheat with Raisins 

Graham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

Baked Apples with Cream Sauce 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Tomato and Macaroni Soup 
Canned Sweet Corn Cold Boiled Beets, Sliced 

Graham Grits 

Beaten Biscuit Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Prune Pie 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Raisins Prune Toast 

To' sted Wafers Crescents Graham Bread 

Baked Apples Cup Custards 

Stewed Fruit 



(534) 



P"ORTV=NINT.m WEEK. 



FIRST DAY ■ 


FOURTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






HRKAKEAST 


Fresh Fruit 




('.r:iliain Alush with Chopped Figs 


Fresh Fruit 


(".ravy 'I'tiast 


Gialiam Grits Strawberry 'J'oast 


Cream Rolls Corn C.ems 


Wliole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 


Baked Chestiiiils Slewed Fruit 


Cream Rolls 


DINNER 


Baked C'hestnuts Stewed Fruit 


Canued Corn Soup 


lUNNEK 


Mashed Potato Chopped Reets 


Pea and Tomato Soup 


SteWL-d Parsnips with Celery 


Mashed Potato Stewed Pumpkin 


Rolled Wheat 


Macaroni Baked with Granola 


Toasted Rolls Whole-Wheat Puffs 


Pearl Barley 


(iraham Hiead 


Graham P.read Sally I.unn Gems 


Stewed Fruit 


'J'oasted Rolls 


Fig Puddiug with Orange Sauce 


Stewed Fruit Molded Tapioca 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Oatmeal Cracker Toast 


(iraham Mush Tomato Toast 


(.Iraham Sticks Currant Puff 


Potato Cakes 


Graham Bread 


Graham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Cream Pea Soup 


Tomato and Macaroni Soup 


Potato Rice Chopped Cabhage 


Potato Snow Stewed Parsnips 


Scalloped Yegetahle Oysters 


Chopped Turnip 


Browned Rice 


Rolled Rye 


Graham Sticks Raised Corn Cake 


(jraham Bread Toasted Waters 


Stewed Fruit 


Graham Crusts 


Cracked Wheat Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Prune Dessert 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 






BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 




Granola Fruit Mush Cream Toast 


Fresh Fruit 


Boiled Macaroni 


Rolled Oats Gravy Toast 


Hoe Cake Whole-Wheat Bread 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Hoe Cake 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Vegetable Oyster Soup 


Mixed Potato Soup 


Steamed Potato with Cream Sauce 


Macaroni with Cream Sauce 


Stewed Corn and Tomatoes Mashed Squash 


Stewed Beans Scalloped Tomato 


Mixed Mush 


Pearl Wheat 


Pop Overs Toasted Wafers Cream Rolls 


Pidled Bread Corn Cakes 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Cornstarch Blancmange 


Farina Custard 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKFAST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Vegetable Oyster Soup 


Rolled Oats Prune Toast 


Macaroni with Kornlet Canned String Beans 


Fruit Bread Cream Rolls Toasted Wafers 


Steamed Rice 


Steamed Figs Cup Custard 


Graham Fruit Bread Cream Rolls 


Stewed Fruit 


Cranberry Jelly Fresh Fruit 



( 535 ) 



F^KTIKTH WEKK. 



FIRST DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Cerealine Flakes 

Baked Potato with Cream Gravy 

Toasted Wafers Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Hoe Cake 

Baked Chestnuts Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Velvet Soup 

Broiled Potato Succotash Baked Squash 

Cracked Wheat 

Toasted Rolls Graham Bread Crusts 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice Cream Pudding 



SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Corn Meal Mush Cream Toast 

Cream Rolls Granola Gems Graham Bread 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Brown Soup 

Baked Potato Stewed Celery 

Mashed Peas with Tomato Sauce 

Graham Grits 

French Rolls Rye Bread Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Apple Snow 



THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Wheat Grape Toast 

Graham Crisps Rye Bread Graham Puffs 

Lemon Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Mashed Potato Mashed Parsnips 

Macaroni with Egg 

Pearl Wheat with Raisins 

Rye Bread Toasted Wafers Currant Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

California Grapes 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Tomato Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Sticks 

Corn Cakes Granola 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Parsnip Soup 

Potato Rice Steamed Squash Baked Beans 

Cracked Wheat 

Raised Biscuit Toasted Wafers 

Graham Gems 

Stewed Fruit 

Farina Blancmange with Cranberry Dressing 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Apple Mush Blackberry Toast 

Macaroni with Cream Sauce 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Baked Bean Soup 

Potato Cakes Scalloped Tomatoes 

Stewed Vegetable Oysters 

Rice 

Graham Bread Oatmeal Crisps 

Beaten Biscuit 

Stewed Fruit Tapioca Jeliy 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Rye Snowflake Toast 

Toasted Wafers Graham Bread Corn Puffs 

Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Vegetable Oyster Soup 

Baked Sweet Potato Mashed Peas 

Boiled Beets with Lemon Dressing 

Graham Grits 

Pulled Bread Graham Crusts 

Stewed Fruit 

Rice and Tapioca Pudding 



SABBATH 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rice with Fig Sauce Gravy Toast 

Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 

Cream Rolls 

Grape Apples Stewed Fruit 



DINNER 

Kornlet Soup 
Mashed Sweet Potato Pease Cakes 

Browned Rice 

Buns Pulled Bread Cream Rolls 

Stewed Fruit Bananas 



(536) 



p- 1 FT V- K I RiST VV K K K , 



FIRST PAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

t'erealine Flakes 

Cream Toast 

(Iraham Puffs Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 

Raked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Swiss Lentil Soup 

J'.oiled Potatoes with Cream Sauce 

Scalloped Tomato 

Stewed Vegetable Oysters 

Pearl Barley 

Ciraham Bread Rye Gems Toasted Wafers 

Lemon Apples Stewed Fruit 

SECOND DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Oatmeal Vegetable Oyster Toast 

Lentil Puree 

Toasted Wafers Corn Puffs Graham Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

iSIashed Potato Mashed Turnip 

Parsnip with Egg Sauce 

Graham Grits 

Raised Corn Cake Graham Sticks 

Stewed Fruit 

Ground Rice Pudding 

THIRD DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Graham Mush with Raisins Tomato Toast 

Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Parsnip Soup 

Baked Potato Mashed Squash 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Clacked Wheat 

Graham Bread Cream Crisps Pop Overs 

Stewed Fruit 

Bread Custard 



FOURTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Plum Porridge Dry Toast with Hot Cream 

Whole-Wheat Bread Cream Crisps 

Hoe Cake Granola 

Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Vermicelli Soup 

Baked Potato with Pease Gravy 

Boiled Beets Stewed Tomatoes 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Beaten Biscuit 

Cranberry Tarts 

FIFTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Gravy Toast 

Baked Sweet Potato 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Graham Puffs 

Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Tomato and Macaroni Soup 

Baked Potatoes with Brown Sauce 

Mashed Peas Stewed Dried Corn 

Rice 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Rye Gems 

Stewed Fruit Nuts and Oranges 

SIXTH DAY 

BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Corn Meal Mush Apricot ToaM 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Breakfast Rolls 

Steamed Figs Stewed Fruit 

DINNER 

Cream Pea Soup 

Boiled Potato Stewed Carrots Celery 

Mashed Chestnuts 

Cracked Wheat 

Raised Corn Cake Toasted Wafers 

Fruit Bread 

Stewed Fruit Rice Cream Pudding 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Fruit 

Rolled Oats Grape Toast 

Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread 

Roasted Almonds Stewed Fruit 



SABBATH 

DINNER 

Tomato and Vermicelli Soup 

Boiled Macaroni Canned String Beans 

Steamed Rice 

Beaten Biscuit Fruit Bread Toasted Wafers 

Stewed Fruit Fresh Fruit 



(537) 



KIKTY=SECONn W^EEK. 



I'lRSl" DAY 


FOURTH DAY 


nRKAK'FAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fi'uit 


l!aked Chestnuts 


Plum Porridge Strawberry Toast 


Rolled Wheat Gravy Toast 


Toasted Waters Hoe Cake Graham Pulls 


Baked Sweet Potato with Tomato Sauce 


Baked Chestnuts Stewed Finit 


Cream Rolls Graham Puffs Granola 


DIXMiR 


Stewed Fruit 


Vegetable Oyster Soup 


DINNER 


Baked Potato Cabbage and Tomato 


Cream Pea Soup 


Hulled Corn or Hominy 


Baked Potato Stewed Tomatoes 


Graham Grits 


Scalloped Vegetable Oysters 


Whole-Wheat Puffs Graham Sticks 


Graham Grits 


Fruit P,read 


Graham Bread Toasted Waters Buns 


Stewed Fruit Snow Pudding 


Stewed Fruit Apple Tart 


SECOND DAY 


FIFTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Corn Meal ^NTush Tomato Toast 


Cracked Wheat Vegetable Oyster Toast 


WholeAA'heat Puffs Toasted Wafers 


■» Graham Bread Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Hominy Gems 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 


Potato Soup 


Lentil Soup 


Baked Beans Stewed Parsnips 


Mashed Potato " lioiled Macaroni 


Pearl Wheat 


Canned Okra and Tomato 


Graham Bread Currant Puffs 


Corn Bread Graham Puffs Toasted Wafers 


Toasted Wafers 


Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit 


Fresh Fruit and Nuts 


Rice Cream Pudding 


THIRD DAY 


SIXTH DAY 


BREAKFAST 


BREAKFAST 


Fresh Fruit 


Fresh Fruit 


Rolled Oats Dry Toast with Hot Cream 


Graham Mush with Dates Snowflake Toast 


Currant Puffs Rye Bread Toasted Wafers 
Baked Apples 
Stewed Fruit 


Graham Bread Toasted Wafers 

M'hole-Wheat Puffs 
Baked Apples Stewed Fruit 


DINNER 


DINNER 

Black Bean Soup 


Lima Bean Soup 

Scalloped Potato Mashed Peas 

Baked Squash Celery 


Mashed Potato Kornlet and Tomato 

Macaroni baked with Granola 

Farina 


Rice with Raisins 
Rye Bread Graham Crusts Toasted Wafers 


Graham Bread Crescents Cream Rolls 
Steived Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Apple Manioca 


Cracked Wheat Pudding 


SABB 


ATH 


BREAKI'-AST 


DINNER 


Fresh Fruit 


Canned Green Pea Soup 


Rolled Oats Blackberry Toast 


Broiled Potato Macaroni with Egg Sauce 


Pulled Bread Buns Beaten Biscuit 


Steamed Rice with Raisins 


Baked Chestnuts 


Buns Beaten Biscuit Toasted Wafers 


Citron Apples Stewed Fruit 


Stewed Fruit Farina Pie 



(53S 



C"0UXT1N(; THE COST. 



539 



COUNTING THE COST. 

The expense of tlic menus given will vary somewhat with 
the locality and the existing market prices. The following 
analysis of several similar bills of fare used in WMdely different 
localities will serve to show something of the average cost. 
The first of these were taken at random from the daily menus, 
during the month of January, of a Michigan family of seven- 
teen persons, grown persons and hearty, growing children, none 
younger than six years. In the estimates made of the cost of 
material, wherever fractions occurred, the next higher whole 
number was taken. No butter was used, a small pitcher of 
cream for each individual supplying its pliicc. The milk used 
for cooking was not counted, since in this case most of the 
cream had been removed, and its cost reckoned at the entire 
cost of the milk itself, or twenty cents a quart, allowing four 
quarts of milk at five cents a quart for one quart of cream. 

IJILLS OF FARE. 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Apples 

Toasted Whole-Wheat Wafers 

Rolled Wheat with Cream 

Grape Toast 

Whole-Wheat Puffs Toasted Wafers 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Stewed Prunes 

Cream Hot Milk 

CosL- Apples (fresh and baked), one 
half peck, loc.; one lb. rolled wheat, 5c.; 
one and a half lbs. zwieback for toast, 
15c.; one pint of canned grape pulp for 
toast, I2C. ; puffs (for which besides milk, 
three eggs at 25c. per doz., and one and 
one half lbs. whole-wheat flour at 5c. per 
lb. were used), 14c. ; two and one half lbs. 
of California prunes, 37c. ; two qts. cream, 
an amount quite sufficient for moistening 
the toast and supplying a small cream 
cup for each individual, 40c. ; two lbs. of 
toasted whole-wheat wafers, 20c. — mak- 
ing the entire cost of breakfast $1-53, or 
exactly nine cents for each person. 



DINNER 

Lima Bean Soup 

Baked Potato with Cream Sauce 

Scalloped Vegetable Oysters 

Graham Grits 

Whole-Wheat liread 

Whole- Wheat Wafers, Toasted 

Canned Cherries 

Citron Apples with Whipped Cream 

Cream Hot Milk 

Cos/: One and one fourth lbs. Lima 
beans, 9c. ; one half peck of potatoes, 
I2c.; one lb. Graham grits, 5c.; i loaf 
whole-wheat bread, lOc; 2)^ lbs. whole- 
wheat wafers, 23c. ; canned cherries, 25c. ; 
apples and citron, loc. ; 3 bunches vege- 
table oysters, 15c.; cream (i cup for the 
soup, one for the cream sauce, and one 
for whipped cream, besides three and 
one fourth pints for individual use), 50c. ; 
flour and sugar for cooking, loc. Total, 
$1.69 — a little less than ten cents each. 



540 



SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 



KREAKFAST NO. 2 

liananas 

Oatmeal (.iravy Toast 

Graham Corns Toasted Wafers 

Ajiple Sauce 

Cream Hot IMilk 

Cos/: 1)4 doz. bananas, 45c.; i_J^ lbs. 
oatmeal, 8c.: zwieback for toast, 15c.; 
cream for gravy, 5c. ; material for gems 
(Graham flour, milk, and a small portion 
of cream), 8c.; apple sauce, lOc; wafers, 
20c. ; cream for individual use, 30c.; sugar, 
5c. Total, $1.46, or a trifle more than S 
cents apiece. 



niNNF.R NO. 2 

Tomato and Macaroni Soup 

r.oiled Potato with Gravy Mashed Peas 

Pearl Barley ^^•ith Raisins 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers 

Canned Berries 

Apple Tapioca with Cream 

Cream Hot Milk 

Cos/: For the soup was required two 
cans of tomatoes at loc. eacli, 2 oz. mac- 
aroni at 15c. per lb., and one cup of cream, 
— 27c.; }4 peck of potatoes, 12c.; 1^ 
lljs. peas, 6c.; i lb. pearl barley, 5c.; J^ 
lb. raisins, 5c.; yi lb. tapioca, 3c.; apples, 
3c.; whole-wheat bread, loc. ; M-afers, 
20c. ; cream, 50c. ; canned fruit, 25c. : 
flour and sugar, 4c. Total, $1.70 — ten 
cents apiece for each member of the 
household. 



The following bills of fare were used by an Iowa family 
of six persons. The prices given were those current in that 
locality in the month of March. 



BREAKFAST 

Apples 

Rolled Oats Tomato Toast 

Toasted Wafers 

Graham Gems Patent Flour Bread 

L)ried Ap[ile Sauce 

Cream Hot Milk 

Cos/: One sixth peck of apples, Sj^c; 
one third lb., rolled oats, i%c. ; three 
fourths lb. whole-wheat wafers, 7^c.; 
one half can tomatoes, $c. ; bread for 
table and for toast, loc; material for 
gems, 3^2 c; dried apples, 6c.; sugar, 
2c.; cream and milk, 15c. Average cost 
for each person, g'i cents. 



DINNER 

Canned Corn Soup with Croutons 

Scalloped Tomato 

Parsnip with Egg Sauce 

(iraham Mush 

Buns Whole-Wheat Bread 

Cup Custard 

Cream Hot Milk 

Cos/: One can of corn, IOC. ; tomatoes 
(using the half can left over from break- 
fast), 5c.; bread for the table, for the 
scalloped tomatoes, and for croutons for 
the soup, IOC. ; parsnips, 5c.; buns, 5c.; 
four eggs, 6''/<c. ; milk and cream, 15c.; 
sugar, 2c.; Graham flour, ic. .\verage 
cost, ID cents apiece. 



The material for the bills of fare given on the next page 
was reckoned at prices current in a city in northern West Vir- 
ginia, in the autumn, and was for a famil}' of six persons. 



rOUN'TINT, THI". COST 



54' 



DINNER 

Tomato Soup with Croutons 

Baked Potatoes Mashed Peas 

Rolled Wheat 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Orange Rice 

Cream Hot Milk 

Cost: One half peck tomatoes, 7/^c.; 
one fourth peck potatoes, 5c. ; one half 
lb. rolled wheat, 2^c.; one fourth loaf 
of bread to make croutons, 2j^c.; whole- 
wheat bread, 5c. ; one half doz. oranges, 
I2)4c.; one half lb. rice, 5c.; two qts. 
milk, IOC. Total, 60 cents, or e.\actly 10 
cents apiece. 

The following four days' bills of fare, — the first two served 
by a Michigan lady to her family of four persons, the second 
used by an Illinois family of eight, — although made up of much 
less variety, serve to show how one may live substantially even 
at a very small cost. 



BREAKFAST 

Bananas 

Browned Rice 

Graham Crisps Whole-Wheat Puffs 

Dried Peach Sauce 

Cream Hot Milk 

Cost: One half doz. bananas, lOc. ; 
one half lb. rice, 5c. ; puffs, 5c. ; crisps, 
2^c.; one lb. dried peaches, 8c.; 2 qts. 
milk, lOc; sugar, i^c. Total, 42 cents, 
or 7 cents for each individual. 



BREAKFAST NO. I 

Apples 

Graham Mush with Dates 

Toasted W'afers Bread 

Dried Apples Stewed with Cherries 

Milk Cream 

Cost: Apples, 4c. ; Graham mush and 
dates, 3c.; toasted wafers, 3c.; bread, 
2c. ; sauce, 3c.; milk and cream, 5c. 
Total, 20 cents, or 5 cents apiece. 



BREAKFAST NO. 2 

Apples 

Graham Grits 

Graham Gems Zwieback 

Dried Sweet Apple Sauce 

Cream Milk 

Cost: Apples, 4c.; Graham grits, 2c.; 
Graham gems, 5c.; zwieback, 2c.; cream 
and milk, 5c. ; sauce, 2c. Total, 20 
cents, or 5 cents per person. 



DINNER NO. I 

Baked Potatoes with Gravy 

Mashed Peas Oatmeal Blancmange 

Whole-Wheat Bread 

Stewed Fruit 

Milk Cream 

Cost: Mashed peas, 3c.; baked potato 
and gravy, 3c.; whole-wheat bread, 2c.; 
milk and cream, 5c. ; oatmeal blanc- 
mange, 2c. ; sauce, 5c. Total, 20 cents. 



or 5 cents apiece. 



DINNER NO. 2 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

Scalloped Potatoes Graham Rolls 

Rice Custard 

Milk Cream 

Cost: Soup, 4c.; potatoes, ic; rolls, 
4c.; milk and cream, 5c.; rice custard, 
6c. Total, 20 cents, or 5 cents each. 



542 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

BREAKFAST NO. 3 DINNER NO. 3 

Baked Apples Beau Soup with Croutons 

Craham Grits with Cream Cream Toast Mashed Potatoes Pearl Wheat 

Graham Gems Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

(iraham and Whole-Wheat Wafers Oatmeal Crackers Patent Flour Bread 

Stewed Prunes Fresh Apples 

BREAKFAST NO. 4 DINNER NO. 4 

Oatmeal with Cream Blueberry Toast Rice Soup 

Breakfast Rolls Baked Potatoes with Cream Gravy 

Graham and Whole-Wheat Wafers Baked Beans 

Stewed Apples Graham Crackers Whole-Wheat Bread 

Fresh Apples 
Farina with Cream 

Material necessary to furnish these four meals for eight persons, — 
Six lbs. flour, i8c. ; two lbs. crackers, different varieties, 20c.; pearl wheat, oat- 
meal, graham grits, and farina, one half lb. each, loc; one peck apples, 30c.; 
prunes, loc. ; one half lb. rice, 3^c. ; two lbs. beans, 8c.; one can tomatoes, loc. ; 
one half peck of potatoes, 13c.; blueberries, loc. ; eight qts. milk, 32c. ; macaroni, 
5c.; sugar, ij4c. Total, $1.71, or cost to each individual, 5^ cents a meal. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



The food on which the man who would be healthy should live must be selected 
so as to insure variety without excess. — Dr. Richardson. 

He.'VRTY foods are those in which there is an abundance of potential energy. — 
Prof. Atwaier. 

An Old-Fashioned Recipe for a Little Home Comfort. — Take of thought 
for self one part, two parts of thought for family ; equal parts of common sense and 
broad intelligence, a large modicum of the sense of fitness of things, a heaping meas- 
ure of living above what your neighbors think of you, twice the quantity of keeping 
within your income, a sprinkling of what tends to refinement and esthetic beauty, 
stirred thick with the true brand of Christian principle, and set it to rise. — Sel, 

For all things have an equal right to live. 
Kill noxious creatures where 't is sin to save ; 
'T is only just prerogative we have ; 
But nourish life with vegetable food, 
And shun the sacrilegious taste of blood. — Ovid. 




HOLIDAY DINNERS. 



SPECIAL dinner for a holiday celebration has so long" 
VMI\\|' been a time-honored custom in most families, that the 
foB majority of housewives consider it indispensable. While 
"^^^^ we admire the beautiful custom of gathering one's 
friends and neighbors around the hospitable board, and by 
no means object to a special dinner on holiday occasions, yet 
we are no wise in sympathy with the indiscriminate feastings 
so universally indulged in at such dinners, whereby stomachs 
are overloaded with a decidedly unhealthful quality of food, to 
be followed by dull brains and aching heads for days to come. 
And this is not the extent of the evil. Holiday feasting 
undoubtedly has much to do with the excessive use of intoxi- 
cants noticeable at such times. Tempted to overeat by the 
rich and highly seasoned viands which make up the bill of 
fare, the heaviness resulting from a stomach thus overburdened 
creates a thirst not readily satisfied. A person who has noted 
how frequently one is called upon to assuage thirst after hav- 

[ 5« ] 



544 



SCIENXE IN THE KITCHEN. 



ing eaten too heartily of food on any occasion, will hardly 
doubt that indigestible holiday dinners are detrimental to the 
cause of total abstinence. 

Then, for the sake of health and the cause of temperance, 
while an ample repast is provided, let not the bill of fare be 
so lavish as to tempt to gormandizing ; and let the viands be 
of the most simple and wholesome character practicable, al- 
though, of course, inviting. As an aid in this direction, we 
offer the following bills of fare : — 

THANKSGIVING MENUS. 



NO. I 

Tomato Soup with Pasta d'ltalia 

Stuffed Potatoes Canned Asparagus 

Pulp Succotash Celery 

Graham Grits 

Fruit Rolls Graham Puffs Buns 

Canned Peaches 

Pumpkin Pie 

Baked Chestnuts Grape Apples 

Fresh Fruits 



NO. 2 

Vegetable Oyster Soup 

Potato Puff Roasted Sweet Potatoes 

Parsnip Stewed with Celery 

Beet Salad 

Boiled Wheat with Raisins 

Cream Crisps Whole-Wheat Bread 

Crescents with Peach Jelly 

Canned Fruit 

Cranberry Tarls Almonds and Pecans 



HOLIDAY MENUS. 



NO. I 

Canned Corn Soup 

Mashed Sweet Potato 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 

Canned Wa.x. Beans or Cabbage Salad 

Steamed Rice 

Graham Puffs Fruit Bread 

Toasted Wafers 

Canned Strawberries 

Malaga Grapes 

Loaf Cake with Roasted Almonds 

Bananas in Syrup 



NO. 2 

Pea and Tomato Soup 

Ornamental Potatoes 

Scalloped Vegetable Oysters 

Egg and Macaroni 

Farina with Fig Sauce 

Sally Lunn Gems Beaten Biscuit 

Graham Bread 

Apple Jelly Canned Gooseberries 

Prune Pie with Granola Crust 

Citron Apples 

Pop Corn 



A BATCH OF DINNERS. 545 



PICNIC DINNERS. 

A picnic, to serve its true end, ought to be a season of 
healthful recreation ; but seemingly, in the general acceptation 
of the term, a picnic means an occasion for a big dinner com- 
posed of sweets and dainties, wines, ices, and other delectable 
delicacies, which tempt to surfeiting and excess. The prepara- 
tion necessary for such a dinner usually requires a great amount 
of extra and wearisome labor, while the eating is very apt to 
leave results which quite overshadow any benefit derived from 
the recreative features of the occasion. It is generally sup- 
posed that a picnic is something greatly conducive to health ; 
but where everything is thus made subservient to appetite, it 
is one of the most unhygienic things imaginable. 

The lunch basket should contain ample provision for fresh- 
air-sharpened appetites, but let the food be as simple as pos- 
sible, and of not too great variety. Good whole-wheat or 
Graham bread in some form, with well sterilized milk and 
cream, or a soup previously prepared from grains or legumes, 
which can be readily heated with the aid of a small alcohol 
or kerosene stove, and plenty of fruit of seasonable variety, will 
constitute a very good bill of fare. If cake is desirable, let it 
be of a very simple kind, like the buns or raised cake for which 
directions are given in another chapter. Beaten biscuits, rolls, 
and crisps are also serviceable for picnic dinners. Fruit sand- 
wiches — made by spreading slices of light whole-wheat or Gra- 
ham bread with a little whipped cream and then with fresh 
fruit jam lightly sweetened, with fig sauce or steamed figs 
chopped, steamed prunes or sliced bananas — are most relish- 
able. These should be made on the ground, just before serv- 
ing, from material previously prepared. An egg sandwich 
may be prepared in the same manner by substituting for the 
fruit the hard-boiled yolks of eggs chopped with a very little 
of the whitest and tenderest celery, and seasoned lightly with 
salt. Two pleasing and palatable picnic breads may be made 
as follows : — 



546 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

REC/PES. 

Picuic Biscuit. — Prepare a dough as for Raised Biscuit, page 145, and 
when thoroughly kneaded the last time, divide, and roll both portions to 
about one fourth of an inch in thickness. Spread one portion with stoned 
dates, or figs that have been chopped or cut fine with scissors, cover with 
the second portion, and cut into fancj' shapes. Let the biscuits rise until 
very light, and bake. Wash the tops with milk to glace before baking. 

Fig' Wafers. — Rub together equal quantities of Graham meal, and figs 
that have been chopped very fine. Make into a dough with cold sweet 
cream. Roll thin, cut in shape, and bake. 

If provision can be made for the reheating of foods, a 
soup, or grain, macaroni with tomato sauce, or with egg or 
cream sauce, or some similar article which can be cooked at 
home, transported in sealed fruit cans, and reheated in a few 
moments on the grounds, is a desirable addition to the picnic 
bill of fare. 

Recipes for suitable beverages for such occasions will be 
found in the chapter on Beverages. 

SCHOOL LUNCHES. 

Mothers whose children are obliged to go long distances 
to school, are often greatly perplexed to know what to put 
up for the noonday lunch which shall be both appetizing and 
wholesome. The conventional school lunch of white bread 
and butter, sandwiches, pickles, mince or other rich pie, with 
a variety of cake and cookies, is scarcely better than none at 
all ; since on the one hand there is a deficiency of food material 
which can be used for the upbuilding of brains, muscles, and 
nerves ; while on the other hand it contains an abundance of 
material calculated to induce dyspepsia, headache, dullness of 
intellect, and other morbid conditions. Left in an ante-room, 
during the school session, until, in cold weather, it becomes 
nearly frozen, and then partaken of hurriedly, that there may 
be more time for play, is it to be wondered at that the after- 
dinner session drags so wearily, and that the pupils feel sleepy. 



A BATCH OF DINNERS. 547 

dull, and uninterested ? Our brains are nourished by blood 
made from the food we eat ; and if it be formed of improper 
or unwholesome food, the result will be a disordered organ, 
incapable of first-class work. 

Again, the extra work imposed upon the digestive organs 
and the liver in getting rid of the excess of fats and sugar in 
rich, unwholesome foods, continually overtaxes these organs. 

It can hardly be doubted that a large majority of the cases 
of so-called overwork from which school children suffer, are 
caused by violation of hygienic laws regarding food and diet 
rather than by an excess of brain work ; or in other words, 
had the brain been properly nourished by an abundance of 
good, wholesome food, the same amount of work could have 
been easily accomplished with no detriment whatever. 

Whenever practicable, children should return to their 
homes for the midday lunch, since under the oversight of a 
wise mother there will be fewer violations of hygienic laws, 
and the walk back to the school room will be far more con- 
ducive to good digestion than the violent exercise or the 
sports so often indulged in directly after eating. When this 
is impracticable, let the lunch be as simple as possible, and 
not so ample as to tempt the child to overeat. Good whole- 
wheat or Graham bread of some kind, rolls, crisps, beaten bis- 
cuit, sticks, fruit rolls, and wafers, with a cup of canned fruit 
or a bottle of rich milk as an accompaniment, with plenty of 
nice, fresh fruits or almonds or a few stalks of celery, is as 
tempting a lunch as any child need desire. It would be a 
good plan to arrange for the heating of a portion of the milk 
to be sipped as a hot drink. In many school rooms the ordi- 
nary heating stove will furnish means for this, or a little alco- 
hol stove or a heating lamp may be used for the purpose, under 
the supervision of the teacher. 

Furnish the children with apples, oranges, bananas, pears, 
grapes, filberts, and almonds in place of rich pie and cake. 
They are just as cheap as the material used for making the 
less wholesome sweets, and far easier of digestion. An occa- 
sional plain fruit or grain pudding, cup custard, or molded 



548 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

dessert may be substituted for variety. Fruit sandwiches, or 
a slice of Stewed Fruit Pudding prepared as directed on page 
308 are also suitable for this purpose. 

Rice prepared as directed below makes a wholesome and 
appetizing article for the lunch basket : — 

Creamy Rice. — Put a pint of milk, one quarter of a cup of best Caro- 
lina rice, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a handful of raisins into an 
earthen-ware dish, and place on the top of the range where it will heat 
very slowly to boiling temperature. Stir frequently, so that the rice will 
not adhere to the bottom of the dish. When boiling, place in the oven, 
and bake till the rice is tender, which can be ascertained by dipping a 
spoon into one side and taking out a few grains. Twenty minutes will 
generally be sufficient. 

Much care should be used in putting up the lunch to have 
it as neat and dainty as possible. A basket of suitable size 
covered with a clean white napkin is better for use than the 
conventional dinner pail, in which air-tight receptacle each 
food is apt to savor of all the others, making the entire con- 
tents unappetizing, if not unwholesome. 

SABBATH DINNERS. 

One of the most needed reforms in domestic life is a change 
to more simple meals on the Sabbath. In many households the 
Sabbath is the only day. in the week when all the members of 
the family can dine together, and with an aim to making it the 
most enjoyable day of all, the good housewife provides the 
most elaborate dinner of the week, for the preparation of which 
she must either spend an unusual amount of time and labor 
the day previous or must encroach upon the sacred rest day 
to perform the work. 

Real enjoyment ought not to be dependant upon feasting 
and gustatory pleasures. Plain living and high thinking should 
be the rule at all times, and especially upon the Sabbath day. 
Nothing could be more conducive to indigestion and dyspepsia 
than this general custom of feasting on the Sabbath. The 
extra dishes and especial luxuries tempt to over-indulgence of 



A BATCH OF DINNERS. 549 

appetite ; while the lack of customary exercise and the gorged 
condition of the stomach incident upon such hearty meals, fos- 
ters headaches and indigestion and renders brain and mind so 
inactive that the participants feel too dull for meditation and 
study, too sleepy to keep awake during service, too languid 
for anything but dozing and lounging, and the day that should 
have fostered spiritual growth is worse than thrown away. Nor 
is this all ; the evil effects of the indigestion occasioned are apt 
to be felt for several succeeding days, making the children ir- 
ritable and cross, and the older members of the family nervous 
and impatient, — most certainly an opposite result from that 
which ought to follow a sacred day of rest. 

Physiologically such feasting is wrong. The wear and con- 
sequent repair incident upon hard labor, calls for an equivalent 
in food ; but Avhen no labor is performed, a very moderate allow- 
ance is all that is necessary, and it should be of easy digesti- 
bility. Let the Sabbath meals be simple, and served with 
abundant good cheer and intelligent thought as an accom- 
paniment. 

Let as much as possible of the food be prepared and the 
necessary work be done the day previous, so that the cook may 
have ample opportunity with the other members of the family 
to enjoy all Sabbath privileges. This need by no means ne- 
cessitate the use of cold food nor entail a great amount of 
added work in preparation. To illustrate, take the following — 

SABBATH BILL OF FARE. 

BREAKFAST DINNER 

Fresh Fruit Canned Green Corn Soup 

Rolled Wheat with Creaui Creamed Potato Green Peas 

Prune Toast Tomato and Macaroni Rice 

Whole-Wheat Bread Toasted Wafers Toasted Wafers Beaten Biscuit Buns 

Buns Canned Peaches 

Fresh Strawberries Fruit and Nuts 

Both the rolled wheat and rice may be prepared the day 
previous, as may also the prune sauce for the toast, the buns, 
bread, and nearly all the other foods. The potatoes can be 
boiled and sliced, the corn for the soup rubbed through the 



5 so SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 

colander and placed in the ice chest, the green peas boiled 
but not seasoned, and the macaroni cooked and added to the 
tomato but not seasoned. The berries may be hulled, the 
nuts cracked, and the canned fruit opened. If the table is 
laid over night and covered with a spread to keep off dust, a 
very short time will suffice for getting the Sabbath breakfast. 
Heat the rolled w^ieat in the inner dish of a double boiler. 
Meanwhile moisten the toast ; and heat the prune sauce. 

To prepare the dinner, all that is necessary is to add to the 
material for soup the requisite amount of milk and seasoning, 
and heat to boiling ; heat and season the peas and macaroni ; 
make a cream sauce and add the potatoes ; reheat the rice, 
which should have been cooked by steaming after the recipe 
given on page 99. 

All may be done in half an hour, while the table is being 
laid, and with very little labor. 



TABLE TOPICS. 



To the days of the aged it addeth length ; 
To the might of the strong it addeth strength : 
It freshens the heart, it brightens the sight ; 
'Tis Hke quaffing a goblet of morning light. — Se/. 

It is said that Worcester sauce was first introduced as a medicine, the original 
formula having been evolved by a noted physician to disguise the assafetida which 
it contains, for the benefit of a noble patient whose high living had impaired his 
digestion. 

The turnpike road to people's hearts I find 

Lies through their mouth, or I mistake mankind. — Dr. Wolcott. 

A GOOD dinner sharpens wit, while it softens the heart. — Doran. 
Small cheer and great welcome make a merry feast. — Sliakespeare. 



INDEX. 



Absorption 

Acetic acid 

Acetic fermentation 

Acorn coffee 

A fourteenth century recipe 

After mealtime 

Aladdin cooker 

Albumen 26, 53, 78, 365 

Albumenized milk 

Alcoholic fermentation 

Almond cornstarch puddiny 

cream , 

paste, to prepare 

sauce 

Almonds . 

blanched 212 

Alum, how to detect in flour 

Ancient recipe for cooking barley. . . 

Animal food 

Anti-fermentatives 

Appetite, education of 

Apple, the 

and bread custard 

beverage 

cake 

charlotte . . 

compote 

custard 320 

custard pie 

dessert 

jelly 

jelly without sugar 

meringue dessert 

pudding, baked 

rose cream 

sago pudding 



119 
119 

433 
219 
471 
66 
,384 
425 
119 

321 
321 
298 

352 
212 

> 215 
115 

95 
391 
192 

449 
169 
321 
433 
344 
321 
188 
, 321 
338 
299 
206 
207 
300 
302 
300 
311 



Apple sandwich 302 

shape 314 

snow 300 

tapioca 309 

t-'trt 317 

toast 290 

toast water 433 

Apples, directions for serving 179 

"1 jelly 314 

sour, raw, digestion of 39 

stewed whole 187 

sweet, raw, digestion of 39 

with apricots 1S9 

with raisins 189 

Apricots 171 

Ajnicot toast 290 

Arrowroot I)lancmange 437 

gruel . 421 

jelly 437 

Artificial butter 373 

feeding 446 

foods, digestibility of 445 

human milk 444 

Art of dining, the 456 

Asparagus 254 

and peas 255 

on toast 255 

points 255 

preparation and cooking of. . . . 254 

recipes for cooking 255 

soup 276, 415 

stewed 256 

toast 290 

with cream sauce 255 

with egg sauce 256 

Assama 135 

[551J 



552 



INDEX. 



Avena 91 

Avenola 429 

Baccate fruits or berries 168 

Bacteria in gelatine. . . . , 313 

Bad cookery, evils of 46 

Bad cooking the ally of intemperance 46 

Bain marie 232, 464 

Baked apples 186, 189 

apple loaf 319 

apple pudding 302 

apple sauce 187 

apples with cream 3°° 

bananas 3°' 

barley 97 

bean soup 276 

beets 247 

cabbage 250 

corn 265 

egg plant 262 

fish , 410 

milk 433 

parsnips 244 

peaches 190 

pears 189 

potatoes 235 

quinces 187 

sweet apple dessert 300 

sweet potatoes 239 

turnips 242 

vegetables 231 

Baking 49 

powders 150 

Banana custard 322 

dessert 310 

dessert with gelatine 315 

pie 338 

shortcake 318 

toast 290 

Bananas 177 

directions for serving 179 

in syrup 301 

Barley 95 

and fruit drink 434 

antiquity of 95 

bread no 



Barley, description of 95 

digestibility of 96 

digestion of 39 

fig pudding 302 

fruit pudding 302 

general suggestions for cooking 96 

grain, structure of , 96 

gruel 422 

lemonade 433 

meal in the time of Charles I. .. 96 

milk 434 

milk for infants 443 

nutritive value of 96 

patent 96 

pearl 96 

pot 96 

recipes for cooking 97 

Scotch milled 96 

soup 415 

used for bread making 96 

Batter for bread, test for lightness of 129 

pudding 332 

Beans 222 

boiled in a bag 223 

green, description of 264 

green, recipes for cooking 267 

Lima 267 

pod, digestion of 39 

preparation and cooking of . . . . 222 

recipes for cooking 223 

shelled 267 

string 267 

time required for cooking 223 

time required for digestion 222 

Bean and corn soup 276 

and hominy soup 276 

and potato soup 276 

and tomato soup 277 

Bean gems 160 

Beaten biscuit 161 

Beating 55 

Beaumont's experiments 29 

Beef, broiled 399 

broth and oatmeal 427 

comparative food value of 392 

digestion of 39 



INDEX. 



553 



Beef, economy and adaptability in 

selection of 398 

jerked 394 

juice 427 

liver of 392 

recipes for cooking 399 

selection of 393 

smothered 400 

soups 41 1 

stewed 400 

tea 43, 426, 427 

tea and egg 427 

tea in bottles 427 

tea, nutritive value of 426 

Beet coffee 360 

greens 247 

hash 247 

salad or chopped beets 248 

sugar 26 

Beets 246 

baked 247 

preparation and cooking of ... . 246 

recipes for cooking 247 

stewed 248 

with potatoes 247 

Berries 189 

Berry shortcake 318 

toast 291 

Beverages 357 

cold, recipes for 361 

for the sick, recipes for 433 

from fruit juices for the sick. . . 432 

recipes for 360 

Bile 36 

Bills of fare for 52 weeks 487-538 

Bills of fare 440 

Birds baked in sweet potatoes 406 

Black bean soup 277 

Blackberry, the 1 76 

beverage 361 

cornstarch pudding 303 

mush 293 

syrup 210 

tapioca 310 

Blackberries, directions for serving. . 181 

Boiled apples with svrup 1S8 



Boiled beans 223 

beets 248 

cabbage 250 

carrots 246 

cauliflower 251 

custard 322 

custard bread pudding 322 

leg of mutton 401 

macaroni 106 

parsnips 244 

potatoes in jackets 235 

potatoes without skins 235 

potato yeast 141 

rice 99 

rice, digestion of 98 

sweet potatoes 239 

turnips 241 

wheat 87 

I'oiling 51. 395 

of vegetables 231 

violent, result of 51 

Bottled beef tea 427 

Bran stock 277 

Brass utensils 58 

Bray 109 

Brazil nuts 213 

Bread and apricot pudding 323 

and fig pudding 323 

and fruit custard 332 

articles from which prepared ... no 

care after baking 136 

corn 1 46 

corn, digestion of 39 

custard, steamed, 333 

custard pudding 322 

dryness of 133 

early forms of 109 

entire wheat 112, 138 

for the sick 436 

Graham 138 

heavy, cause of 155 

how to knead 132 

keeping of 137 

perfectly risen 130 

to detect alum in 1 16 

to delect whitins in 1 16 



554 



INDEX. 



Bread in desserts 297 

fermented 118 

flour, amount of required 126 

made light ^ithuiir 152 

making, chemistry of 116 

materials, how to combine 125 

milk 142 

moldy 297 

necessary qualities of 1 1 1 

of mulberries no 

overfermentation of 120 

pans 134 

pie 338 

pulled . 143 

rye 144 

sour 130, 297 

stale 138 

stale, use of 453 

steamed 140 

test of 137 

the rising of 129 

unfermented, general directions 

for making 152 

unfermented, time required for 

baking 155 

unleavened 117 

Vienna 142 

water 142 

white, injurious effects of 11 1 

whole-wheat 138, 143 

whole-wheat, proportion of phos- 
phates in 112 

Breads, fermented 142 

Breadstuffs and bread-making 109 

Breakfast dishes 287 

miscellaneous 293 

Breakfast, grains for 84 

rolls 160 

Breakfasts and dinners, a year's. . . . 481 

the ideal 288 

use of fruits for 288 

Breaking bread no 

Brewis 293 

Broccoli 251 

recipes 251 

Broiled beef 799 



Itroiled birds 406 

fish 410 

mutton chop 401 

potato 238 

steak 430 

I^roiling 49> 397 

Brose 93 

Broth panada 428 

vegetable 428 

Brown Betty 305 

bread 146 

sauce 351 

soup 277 

Browned cauliflower 252 

flour in soups 274 

mush 103 

parsnips 244 

rice 100 

sweet potatoes 240 

Budrum 93 

Buns, plain 347 

Butter 364, 370 

absorbent properties of 376 

artificial 373 

digestion of , 39 

emulsified 378 

French 378 

good, test for 372 

in ancient times 373 

in bread 127 

keeping qualities of 375 

making 374 

Butterine 373 

Buttermilk, composition of 370 

Butternut 214 

Butter-oil 373 

Cabbage, description of 248 

baked 250 

boiled 250 

digestion of 39 

hash 250 

preparation and cooking of 249 

recipes for cooking 250 

salad 250 

wit.i celery 250 



INDEX. 



555 



Calibage with tomatoes 

Cake, general directions for making. 

heat required for baking 

icing for 

made light with yeast 

recipes for making 

Calves' lirains 

Candies 

Cane sugar 

Canned corn soup 

green pea soup 

Canning fruit 

utensils . . . . , 

Caramel coffee 

custard 

for coloring soup brown 

sauce 

Carrots 

digestibility of 

pie 

pudding 

recipes for cooking 

soup 

Carrots boiled 

preparation and cooking 

stewed 

with egg sauce 

Casein 26, 78, 365, 

Cauliflower 

and broccoli, preparation and 
cooking 

recipes for cooking 

with egg sauce 

with tomato sauce 

Celery 

and potato hash 

recipes for cooking 

sauce 

soup . , 

to keep fresh 

with tomato sauce 

Cellar 

lloor 

need of frequent whitewashing. 

ventilation of 

walls 



250 
343 
344 
346 
344 
344 
392 
449 
26 
278 
278 

193 
197 
360 
323 
415 
352 
245 
245 
338 

323 
246 
278 
246 

245 
246 
246 
372 
251 

251 

251 
252 
252 

253 

254 

253 
352 
278 

253 

254 

70 



70 



Cereals , 78 

Charcoal 47 

< heese 376 

cottage 377 

Chinese 218 

('hcrry, the 171 

jelly .... 207 

tart 318 

toast 291 

(iu-rries 189 

directions for serving 179 

to can 202 

Chicken 430 

broth 427 

jelly 430 

panada 428 

China closet 67, 457 

the care of 477 

Chinese soup strainer 273 

Chestnut, the 214 

bread 1 10 

soup 278 

Chestnuts, boiled 215 

mashed 215 

Chocolate 359 

Chopped beets 248 

cabbage 250 

turnips 242 

Cinders, use of 49 

Citric acid 165 

Citron 1 73 

apples 186 

Cla'lns 409 

Clear dessert 315 

Clearing the table 47 1 

Clear jelly, to make 205 

Clotted cream 377 

Coal 47 

Coarse hominy 104 

Cobnut 214 

Cocoa 359 

Cocoanut, the 213 

and cornstarch blancmange. . . . 303 

cornstarch pudding 323 

.custard 323 

custard cake 345 



556 



INDEX. 



Cocoanut flavor 298 

Cocoanut pie 338 

sauce 352 

rice custard 324 

Coffee 359 

Coke 47 

Colander, use of in the preparation 

of soups 273 

Combination soup 275, 279 

Compartment sink 68, 69 

Compote of apples 188 

Compound stock 414 

Compressed yeast 122 

Condiments 29 

in cookery , 46 

Condensed milk 369 

Cooked fruit 185 

Cookery 45 

Cooking of grains 81 

utensils 56 

Copper utensils 58 

Cornaro, experiences of 441 

Corn loi 

and chicken 406 

and tomatoes canned 269 

bread, digestion of. 39 

cake 147 

cakes 265 

canned 268 

digestibility of loi 

dodgers 158, 159 

dried 266 

keeping qualities of 102 

lob 102 

mush rolls 160 

pudding 265 

puffs 158 

roasted green 265 

stewed green 266 

Corn meal 102 

and fig pudding 324 

crust 337 

cubes 103 

mush 103 

mush with fruit 103 

pnclding 324 



Corn meal, recipes for cooking 103 

suggestions for cooking 102 

Cornstarch blancmange 303 

fruit mold 303, 304 

meringue 324 

pudding, plain 328 

with raisins 303 

with apples 303 

Cottage cheese 377 

Cows' milk, analysis of 364 

milk, prepared for infants 443 

Crab apples, to can 203 

Crab apple jelly 207 

Cracked potatoes 236 

wheat 86, 87 

. wheat pudding. 304, 324 

Cranberry, the 175 

drink 434 

jelly 207 

pie 339 

Cranberries, to keep 184 

and sweet apples 190 

with raisins 190 

Cream 364, 370 

barley soup 279 

cake 345 

composition of 370 

corn cakes 159 

crisps 161 

digestibility of 370 

filling 337 

for shortcake 319 

Graham rolls 160 

or white sauce 351 

pea soup , . 279 

pie 339 

sauce 352 

temperature for raising 368 

toast 291 

toast with poached eggs.- 291 

use of in soups 274 

wholesomeness of 371 

Creamed parsnips 244 

potatoes 237 

turnips 242 

Creamery 371 



INDEX. 



557 



Creamy rice 548 

Crescents 145 

Crust coffee 434 

Crusts 157 

Croutons 453 

Cucumber, description of 263 

the serving of 263 

Cupboards 62 

Cupboard ventilation 62 

Cup custard 320, 325 

Currantade 434 

Currant jelly 437 

pwffs 157 

Custard, boiled 322 

in cups 320 

plain 328 

puddings 319 

pudding, importance of slow 

cooking of 319 

puddings, recipes for cooking.. 320 

sauce 353 

, snowball 331 

steamed 330 

tapioca 331 

Cut-glass ware 476 

Cymling 258 

description of ... 258 

preparation and cooking of. . . . 258 

Date, the 172 

bread 146 

pudding 333 

Decaying vegetables in cellar 70 

Delicate cup cake 345 

Description of Indian corn loi 

Desserts 296 

fruits, recipes for 299 

for the sick 437 

general directions for prepara- 
tion of 297 

made of fruit, grains, bread, etc., 

recipes for 302 

made with gelatine, recipes for 314 

molded 298 

objections to 296 

with crusts, recipes fur 317 



Desserts with manioca 312 

with sago 311, 312 

with tapioca, recii)cs for 309 

with tapioca 309 

Devonshire cream .... 377 

Dextrine 78 

Diabetic biscuit 436 

Diastase 86 

Diet of the pyramid builders 218 

for older children 447 

for the young 442 

simplicity in 41 

Digestion deferred by the use of fried 

foods , . 54 

hygiene of 40 

in stomach 37 

intestinal 38 

liver 39 

salivary 37 

time required for 39 

Digestive apparatus 35 

fluids, uses of 38 

I )ining, the art of 456 

b)ining room, the 456 

furnishing of 456 

temperature of 469 

ventilation of 457 

Dinners, a batch of 543 

holiday 543 

Dinner parties, invitations for 467 

suggestions concerning 466 

Diseased animal food 39O 

Disease germs in meat 391 

Dish closet, utensils for 67 

Dish drainer 68 

Dishing up 463 

Dishes, washing the 472 

Dish mop 475 

towel rack 74 

Double boiler. 53, 81 

in the preparation of "gravies. . . 351 
in the preparation of gruels. ... 421 

substitute for 81 

Double broth 414 

Dough 117 

kneading the 131 



558 



INDEX. 



iJrafts and dampers, managcnient of 49 

Draining dishes 475 

Drain pipes 64 

Dried apple pie 339 

apple pie with raisins 339 

apples with other dried fruit. . . 191 

apples 190 

apricot pie 339 

apricots and peaches 191 

pears 191 

Drinks and delicacies for the sick. . . 432 

Dropped eggs 386 

Drupaceous fruits 168 

Dry granola » 293 

Drying fruit 211 

Drying towels 475 

Dry toast with hot cream 292 

Duck, digestion of 39 

Eating between meals 449 

hastily 40 

too much ... 42 

when tired 42 

Effects of cooking fat 53 

Egg gruel 422 

lemonade 434 

panada 429 

plant, description of 262 

sandwich 545 

sauce 352, 353 

Eggnog 434 

Eggs and macaroni 107 

composition of 380 

digestion of 39 

for the sick, recipes for 431 

for use in desserts 297 

how to choose 381 

how to keep 382 

in cream 386 

in shell 384 

in sunshine 385 

micro-organisms in 381 

poached 386 

poached in tomatoes , . . . . 385 

recipes for cooking 384 

stale 297 



Eggs, lest for 381 

to beat , 383 

use of in unfcrmented breads.. . 154 

Evaporation 54 

Evaporated peach sauce 191 

Extension strainer 421 

Fancy omelets 387 

Farina 88, 89 

blancmange 304 

custard 325 

fruit mold 304 

molded 89 

nutritive value of 89 

pie 339 

pudding 325 

recipes for cooking of 89 

with fig sauce 89 

with fresli fruit 89 

Fat, decomposed by the action of 

heat 54 

Fats 26 

effects of cooking upon 53 

Fatty matter 42 

Fermentation 118 

the different stages of 119 

temperature for 121 

the process of 118 

Fermentative agents 120 

Fermented breads 142 

recipes for 142 

Fibrin 26, 78 

Field corn loi 

Fig, the 176 

layer cake 345 

pudding, steamed 333 

Figs, directions for serving 181 

Filbert, the 214 

Filters 69 

Fine hominy or grits , 104 

Fires, care of 48 

Fish 408 

as a brain food 408 

baked 410 

liest method for cooking 410 

boiled 410 



INDEX. 



559 



I''i.sh, liiciilcd 4U) 

huw U) select and pre]);irc 409 

])arasiles in 408 

recipes for cookin|^ 410 

Flavoring, suggestions for 298 

Flaxseed tea 434 

Floated egg 43 1 

P'loating island 325 

Floors, kitchen 61 

Flour, to keep . . .' 115 

absorbent quality of 126 

adulteration of, how to iletect . 116 

deleterious adulteration of 115 

entire wheat 114 

Graham, how to test 114 

gruel 422 

how to select 1 13 

measuring of 55 

Flummery 93 

Foam omelets 387 

Foamy sauce 353 

Food, amount required 42 

apologies for 469 

Fqod elements 25 

changes in by cooking 45 

correct proportion of in wheat 79 

deficiency of 43 

excess of 42 

nitrogenous, subject to rapid de- 
composition 118 

]iroportions of • 28 

uses of 27 

Food for infants 444 

for infants, quantity of 445 

for the aged and the very young 439 

for the aged, requirements for. 439 

for the sick 418 

for the sick, to heat 420 

for the sick, utensils for the prep- 
aration of 420 

mucilaginous, excellent in gastro- 
enteritis 444 

Foods 25 

adding to boiling liquids 54 

combinations of 28, 43 

digestion of 35 



l'"ii()(ls, etlccls of hard anil soft water 

upon 52 

I'owl, broiled 406 

to stuff 406 

to truss 405 

Fowls, digestion of 39 

Fragments and left-over foods 452 

French butler 378 

•■"lis 145 

Fresh fruit conijiote 301 

fruit pie 336 

Fried foods for breakfast 287 

Frosted fruit 181 

Frozen fish 410 

Fruit 164 

acids 165 

beverage , 361 

cake 346 

canned, selection of 193 

canned, the storing of 198 

canned, to ppen 199 

canned, to sterilize 193 

canning, causes of failure in. ... 198 

canning of 193 

cans, to test 193 

cause of decay 192 

cellar, the 184 

cooking of for jelly 204 

crackers 162 

custard 325 

dessert 299 

directions for picking and hand- 
ling , 182 

directions for serving 179 

dried, for cake 343 

foam dessert 315 

for the sick 432 

for the table 178 

general directions for cooking. . 185 

how to keep fresh 182 

ices. 211 

jelly 204 

jelly cake 345 

jelly, recipes for 206 

jelly, storing of 206 

jelly, straining the juice for .... 204 



56o 



INDEX. 



l''ruil jelly, time required for boiling 

juice 205 

juices for the sick 432 

juices, recipes for 209 

loaf 142 

loaf with Graham or whole-wheat 

flour 146 

or vegetables in tin cans 199 

pie .... 339 

pudding 305 

rolls 142, 161 

sandwich 545 

sauce 354 

shape 315 

shortcake 3^^ 

sugar 26 

syrup 210 

tapioca 3'° 

the storing of 183 

the circulation of juice in 178 

the preservation of 192 

to cook for canning 194 

use of spices with 185 

Fruits, analysis of 166 

at the beginning of a meal 168 

dried 298 

drying of 211 

for breakfast 288 

in jelly 208 

kinds most easily digested 165 

recipes for cooking 186 

stale 167 

structure of 165 

their value as nutrients 165 

Frumenty 87, 293 

Frying 53 

Fuel 47 

economical use of 48 

waste of 51 

Galvanized iron ware 57 

Game, suggestions for selection of. . 403 

Garbage 479 

Gasoline and gas 47 

Gastric juice 3^ 

Geese and ducks, suggestions for se- 
lection of 404 



Gelatine, a culture medium 313 

custard 315 

nutritive value of 313 

preparation of for desserts 314 

Gem irons 152 

irons, filling of 156 

Germs in stale fruits 167 

in the fermentation of bread. . . 120 

Glass, care of 476 

utensils •. 477 

Glucose 

Gluten 78 

custard 43 1 

cream 422 

gruel 422 

meal custard 431 

meal gems 436 

meal gruel 422 

mush 429 

Gofio 95 

Gold and silver cake 346 

Gooseberry 174 

tart 318 

Gooseberries, directions for serving 179- 
to can 200 

Graham apple mush 90 

bread 139, 144 

crisps 161 

flour 88, 113 

gems 157 

•grits 89 

grits gruel 423 

grits, how manufactured 88 

grits, nutritive value of 89 

grits pudding 325 

gruel 422 

mush 90 

mush with dates 90 

puffs 156, 157 

rolls 160 

salt-rising bread 147 

Grain and fruit diet for the aged .... 440 

Grains 78 

an economical food 85 

and liquids employed for cook- 
ing 82 

composition of 78 



INDEX. 



561 



(iraiiis, digestibility of 78 

for the sick 429 

for breakfast 84 

importance of variety and use (jf 79 

insalivation of 80 

in soups 274 

insufficiently cooked not easily 

digested 81 

left over 454 

nutritive value of 78 

suggestions for cooking 81 

use of by other nationalities. ... 79 

use of condiments with 79 

Granite ware 57 

utensils, to clean. 474 

Granola 429 

thrust 337 

fruit mush 91 

gems 159 

mush 91 

peach mush 91 

Granular corn meal 102 

Grape apples 301 

fruit, the 1 73 

beverage 361 

jelly 208 

jelly pie 340 

juice 209 

sugar 26 

t:^>-t 338 

toast 292 

( irapes, to keep 184 

directions fur serving 180 

( iravy toast 29' 

I Iravies and sauces 350 

and sauces for vegetables, reci- 
pes for 351 

to flavor 351 

Green bean soup 280 

l)eans, preparation and cooking 

<^f 2t)4 

corn 264 

corn, btjiled 265 

corn preparation and rooking of, 

recijjes 264, 265 

corn soup 280 

])ea soup 2S0 



Green peas, dried 222 

peas, preparation and cooking of 2()4 

Ground air 70 

Ground rice pudding 326 

Gruel, barley 422 

egg 422 

flour 422 

gluten meal 422 

Graham 422 

Indian meal 423 

lemon oatmeal 423 

milk oatmeal 423 

oatmeal 424 

of prepared flour 423 

peptonized gluten 424 

raisin 424 

strainer 42 1 

Gruels 420 

recipes for 421 

Gum arable water 435 

Ilasty pudding 102 

Hazelnut, the 214 

Hickory nut, the 214 

Hoe cake 159 

Holiday dinners 543 

feasting 543 

menus 544 

Home-made macaroni 106 

Hominy 102, 104 

gems 158 

Honey 26 

Hop yeast 141 

Hot buttered toast 419 

lemonade 435 

mWk 376, 425 

water 435 

1 lousehold workshop .• . . 60 

I^-'^(l iiiilk 357 

lea 357 

w^itt^r 357 

Ice in refrigerator 68 

Icelandic bread 1 10 

Iceland moss blancmange 437 

moss jelly 437 

Imperial rolls '. 145 



56:2 



INDEX. 



Indian corn loi 

Indian meal gruel 423 

Indigestion caused by bad Cooking . . 46 

Infants' food - • ■ 444 

Intestinal digestion 38 

juice 36 

Invalid food 436 

Irish moss lemonade 435 

potatoes 233 

Iron rust 57 

utensils 57 

Ivory handles 477 

Jam pudding 3°5 

Japanned goods 477 

Jellied oatmeal ; . 94 

Jelly, apple 206 

cherry 207 

crab apple 207 

cranberry 207 

custard pie 340 

for the sick .' 419, 437 

grape 208 

orange 208 

pear 208 

plum . . 208 

producing principle 165 

quince 208 

with fruit 316 

Julienne soup 415 

Junket 425 

Keeping fresh fruit 182 

Kerosene oil 47 

Kitchen brushes 75, 76 

clock 62 

conveniencies 7° 

drain pipes 64 

floor 61 

flowers in 62 

furnishing 61 

furniture 62 

good sized one 61 

location of 60 

plumbing ,. 64 

refuse 64 



Kitchen, sanitary 61 

sink, best material for 64 

slate 63 

table 63 

utensils 66 

ventilation 61 

woodwork ; . ... 62 

Kneading 55, 131 

table 74 

Kornlet and tomato soup 280 

soup 280 

Koumiss 425 

Lamb 402 

comparative nutritive value of.. 392 

Layer pudding 316 

Lead-adulterated tin 57 

test of 58 

Leaven 121 

I^eft-over foods, care of 453 

fragments in soup 275 

Legumes 217 

composition of 217 

digestibility of 218 

green 219 

suggestions for cooking 219 

value as strength producers. ... 218 

Legumin 217 

Lemon, the 173 

Lemonade 362 

Lemon apples 187 

cornstarch pudding 326 

drill 72 

filling 338 

flavor 299 

jelly 316 

meringue custard 340 

oatmeal gruel 423 

pie 340 

pudding 326 

pudding sauce 354 

shortcake 3'^ 

syrup 210 

Lemons and oranges, to keep 184 

Lentil and parsnip soup 281 

gravy with rice 226 



INDEX. 



56: 



Lentil meal 225 

puree 226 

soup 281 

loast 292 

Lentils, description of 225 

mashed with beans 226 

recipes for cooking 226 

Lettuce 256 

to clean 230 

to serve 257 

Lignite 47 

Lima bean souj) 281 

Lime, the 173 

Liquid, quantity required for bread- 
making 126 

Liquid yeast 140 

Liquids best suited for cooking 51 

Liver digestion 39 

Loaf cake 347 

Loaf, size of 133 

Lobsters 409 

Love apple . 260 

Luncheon, cold, provision for 545 

IMacaroni 105 

boiled 106 

description of 105 

in soups 274 

pudding 326 

recipes for cooking . 106 

soup 281, 416 

to select 105 

to prepare and cook 106 

to keep 105 

with cream sauce 106 

with kornlet 294 

with granola 106 

with raishis 293 

with tomato sauce 106 

Maize loi 

meal 102 

Mallic acid 165 

-Manioca 309 

with fruit 312 

-Maple sugar 26 

Mashed cabbage 250 



Mashed beans 224 

peas 221 

jiarsnips 244 

potatoes 236 

sweet potatoes 240 

Mashed turnips 242 

Mastication 37 

Materials, mixing of 55 

Meals, drinking at 41 

eating between 41 

service of 464 

Measures and weights, comparative 

table of 55 

Measuring 54 

dry iiiaterials 55 

flour 55 

liquids 55 

salt 55 

sugar 55 

Meat broth 426 

diseased 390 

extracts 43 

for children 448 

importance of simple cooking of 392 

nutritive value of 389 

pies 392 

preparation and cooking of. . . . 395 

preservation of 394 

soup, recipes for 415 

soup, preparation and cooking 

of 412 

soup 410 

selection of 393 

Meats for the sick, recipes for 430 

left over 454 

Melon, the 1 76 

directions for serving 180 

Menu cards 468 

Metate 148 

Micro-organisms in gelatine 313 

Milk, absorbent properties of 367 

adulteration of 365 

albumenized 4^5 

and contagious diseases 366 

and lime water ... 425 

baked 433 



564 



INDEX. 



INIilk bread 127 

bread \vll\\ white flour 142 

care of 367 

composition of 364 

condensed 369 

cream and butter 364 

Jiet 425 

diet for the young 442 

digestion of ... 39 

dishes, washing of 367 

diseased 365 

for cooking purposes 52 

hot 376, 425 

left over 455 

oatmeal gruel 423 

panada 429 

porridge 423 

preparations of 425 

recipes for 376, 425 

sugar 26 

to sterilize for immediate use. .. 368 

to sterilize to keep 369 

use of in soups 274 

utensils for keeping 366 

yeast bread 147 

Minced chicken 430 

steak 430 

Mineral elements 26, 78 

soap 477 

Miss B's salt-rising bread 143 

Mixed lemonade 362 

fruits, to can 202 

mush 94 

vegetable broths 428 

Mock cream 354 

Molasses sauce 354 

Molded farina 89 

rice, or snow balls 327 

tapioca with fruit 310 

wheat 88 

Mrs. T's caramel coffee 360 

Mulberry, the 176 

Mush, rye loi 

Mutton broth 42S 

chop 430 

chops, stewed 402 



Mutton, comparative nutritive value 

«f 392 

digestion of . . . 39 

recipes for cooking 401 

rules for selection of 393 

stewed 402 

New potatoes 236 

Nitrogenous elements, importance in 

dietary for children 448 

Nursing bottles 447 

Nuts 212 

recipes for serving 215 

to keep fresh 215 

Oatcakes 92 

Oatmeal blancmange 94 

bread 147 

character of 92 

crisps 162 

drink 362 

for children 93 

fruit mush 94 

gems 159 

griicl 424 

in soups. 274 

mush 94 

porridge 95 

preparation and cooking of ... . 93 
proportion of nitrogenous ele- 
ment in 92 

recipes for cooking of 94 

soup 281 

time required for the digestion 

of 93 

with apple 95 

Oat, the 91 

ancient use of 91 

a staple article of diet with the 

Scotch peasantry 91 

description of 91 

I^r. Johnson's definition of ... . 92 

how prepared for food 92 

nutritive value of 91 

Oil and gas stoves 65 

Oleomargarine 373 



INDEX. 



565 



( )livf, the 171 

( )iiiek-l, foam 387 

1'1'iiii 387 

soft 388 

( )inelcts, fancy 387 

recipes for makiiit:; 3S7 

( )ne-crust peach pie 341 

< )iiions 267 

( )rangea(Ie 3*>2, 435 

( )raiiges and apples I go 

cake 34(1 

custard 327 

dessert 316 

directions for ser\int^ 180 

flavor 2()() 

float 327 

in jelly 317 

jelly 208, 317 

pie 341 

pudding 327 

rice 100 

sauce 354 

syrup 210 

whey 437 

( )rnamental potatoes 23S 

liven, heat of for baking unfcr 

niented bread 153 

proper temperature of 134 

test for heating of 50, 136 

thermometer 50 

( )ysters 409 

digestion of 39 

Paddy fields 98 

Paint for kitchen walls 62 

Panada, recipes for 428 

Pan broiled steak. . 399 

Pantry, the 67 

Parched grain coffee 360 

Parker House rolls 145 

Parsnip beer 243 

boiled 244 

boiled, digestion of 39 

browned 244 

creamed 244 

description of 243 



Parsnip, mashed 244 

preparation and cooking of ... . 243 

recipes for cooking of 244 

soup 281, 282 

stewed 245 

slewed with celery 345 

with cream sauce 244 

with egg sauce 244 

with potato 245 

Partridges 404, 406 

to ilress 404 

Passover bread 148 

Pasta d'Ttalia 105 

Pastry and cake 333 

indigestibility of 334 

Paste for pies 336 

for tart shells 337 

Pates 392 

Patent barley 96 

Pea and tomato soup 282 

Peach, the 1 70 

cream 301 

custard pie 341 

digestion of 39 

jelly 208 

mush 294 

meringue 327 

sauce 355 

tapioca 311 

toast 292 

^ eaches 189 

and cream, directions for serving 180 
and pears, directions for serving 180 

to can 20I 

Peanut bread 1 10 

the, or ground nut 214 

Pear, the 1 70 

Pearl barley 96 

barley with lemon sauce 97 

barley with raisins 97 

wheat 87 

Pearled wheats 86 

Pears, to can 201 

Peas bainock 220 

cake 221 

canned 269 



566 



INDEX. 



Peas, description of 220 

gravy 352 

green, description of 264 

green, recipes for cooking of. . , 266 

pudding 220 

puree 221 

recipes for cooking 221 

sausage 221 

stewed 266 

the history 220 

Pecan, the 214 

Pectic acid 165 

Pemmican 394 

Peptonized gruel 424 

milk for infants 426 

Percolater holder 73 

Perforated sheet iron pans for rolls. 152 

Phosphates in wheat 86 

Picnic biscuit 546 

dinners 545 

pudding 327 

Pie, fresh fruit 336 

crust, raised 319 

with one crust 335 

Pies, general suggestions for making. 334 

paste for 336 

recipes for making 336 

Pigeons 406 

to select 404 

Pineapple, the 178 

beverage 362 

cake 347 

directions for serving 180 

lemonade 362 

tapioca 310 

Pineapples, to can 203 

Pink dinners 468 

lemonade 362 

Pippins and quinces 187 

Plain cornstarch pudding 328 

custard 328 

fruit pudding 305 

omelets 387 

pudding sauce 355 

rice soup 282 

Plaster of Paris in flour 116 



Plum, the 170 

jelly 208 

porridge go 

Plums 189 

to can 202 

with sweet apples 202 

Poached eggs with cream sauce 386 

Poisonous mussels 409 

substances produced in fried 

foods 54 

Polenta I02 

Pomaceous fruits 168 

Pomegranate, the 174 

Pop corn loi, 104 

pudding 330 

Popovers 159 

Porcelain-lined utensils, to wash. . . . 474 

ware 57 

Pork, digestion of 39 

Porridge, milk 423 

Potato and rice soup 282 

and vermicelli soup 283 

bread 143 

bread with whole-wheat flour. . . 144 

browned 238 

cake with egg 237 

cake 237 

chemistry of cooking 233 

cooked in jackets 234 

digestion of 39 

frozen 233 

hash 240 

Irish, description of 233 

paring of 234 

preparation and cooking of 234 

recipes for cooking of 235 

snowballs 237 

soup 282 

sprouts, poisonous 229 

stewed with celery 237 

structure of 233 

sweet, preparation and cooking 

of 238, 239 

yeast in bread-making 140 

Pot barley 96 

roast lamb 401 



INDEX. 



567 



Poultry and game 402 

and game, recipes for cooking. . 406 

less stimulating than game 402 

suggestions for selecting 403 

Preparation of mushes with meal or 

flour 83 

Prepared foods for infants 444 

Prune, the 1 7 1 

marmalade 1 91 

pie 341 

pudding 305, 328 

toast 292 

whip 328 

Prunes 191 

Pulled bread 143 

Pulp succotash 224 

Pumice stone 477 

Pumpkin 259 

baked 260 

canned 269 

dried 260 

pie 342 

pie without eggs 342 

recipes for cooking of 260 

stewed 260 

Puree with chicken 416 

Putrefactive fermentation 119 

Quails 406 

Quantity of food for the aged 441 

Quince, the -. 1 70 

jelly 208 

Radish 256 

description of 257 

Radishes, to serve 257 

Raised biscuit 145 

corn bread 146 

pie crust 319 

Raisin gruel 424 

panada 429 

Range ventilator 61 

Raspberries, blackberries, and other 

small fruits 200 

directions for serving 18 1 

Raspberry, the 1 76 



Raspberry manioca mold 312 

Raw eggs 431 

potato yeast 140 

Recipes for canning fruit 200 

for cooking rye loi 

for steamed pudding 332 

for unfermented bread 156 

for yeast 140 

Red rice mold 307 

sago mold 311 

sauce 355 

Refrigerator 68 

Rice and fruit dessert 307 

and strawberry dessert 308 

and stewed apple dessert 307 

and ta]:)ioca pudding 307 

apple custard pudding 329 

balls 333 

best methods of cooking 99 

cream pudding 306 

custard pudding 329 

description of 97 

digestibility of 97 

digestion of 39 

division in food elements 98 

dumpling 3°^ 

fruit dessert 306 

flour 98 

tlour mold 307 

history of 97 

kernel, structure of 98 

meringue 305 

preparation and cooking of ... . 99 

pudding with raisins 306 

recipes for cooking of 99 

requisites for cultivation of ... . 98 

snow 329 

snowball 3°^ 

snow witli jelly 329 

soup 415 

time required for digestion of . . 98 

to clean 99 

water 424 

with eggs 329 

uilh fig sauce 99 

with lemon 294 



568 



INDEX. 



Rice with peaches loo. 

\\\lh raisins loo 

Roast beef 399 

chicken 406 

mutton 401 

turkey 407 

Roasted potatoes 235 

sweet potatoes 240 

Roasting 49, 397 

Rochelle salts 151 

Roll, fruit 142 

Rolled oats 95 

rye loi 

wheat 86. S7 

Rolls 145 

Rose cream \ 355 

Rough rice 98 

Rust, to remove 477 

Rye, appearance of -. 100 

bread 144 

description of 100 

flour 100 

meal 100 

nutritive value of 100 

Pwffs ,: 157 

Sabbath bill of fare 549 

dinners 548 

Sago and fruit custard pudding 330 

and potato soup 283 

custard pudding 330 

digestion of 39 

fruit pudding 312 

pudding 312 

sauce 355 

soup 415 

Saleratus 149 

Salicylic acid, in fruit 192 

Saliva, the 36 

Sally Lunn gems 158 

Salmon, digestion of 39 

Salsify, description of 263 

preparation and cooking of.... 263 

recipes for cooking of 264 

Salted fish 409 

Salted meats 394 



Salt, measuring of 55 

Samp 103 

Sanitay customs among the Jews. . . 390 
Sauce for desserts and puddings, 

recipes for 352 

^''^"leing 53 

Scalloped beans 223 

cauliflower 252 

egg plant 26^ 

potatoes 237 

turnips 242 

vegetable oyster 264 

Scallops 409 

School lunches 546 

Scientific cookery, principles of. ... 47 

Scotch broth 283 

milled barley 96 

Scraml;)led eggs. .- 386 

Scraped steak 430 

Sea kale 256 

Sea mos.s 309 

blancmange 312 

Seasonings 31 

Semolina 105 

Setting the sponge 124 

Shaken milk 378 

Sheep's kidneys 392 

Shell fish 409 

Sherbet 362 

Shortcake, banana 318 

lemon 318 

strawberry 318 

Silver, care of 476 

to remove egg tarnish from .... 473 

Simmering 53 

Simple custard pie 342 

stock, or broth 414 

Sink in kitchen 64 

Skim milk, composition of 370 

Slippery elm tea 435 

Small fruits 191 

Smoked meats 394 

Smooth apple sauce 188 

Smothered beef 400 

chicken 407 

Snowball custard 33 1 



IXDKX. 



569 



Snowballs 327 

Snowllnke toast 2<j2 

Snow i^i'iiis i^ij 

Snow puildini; .5 ' 7i 329 

Snow, use of iu place of eijj^s 298 

Sod a 149 

use of in cookinLj ve<^etal)lcs. . . . 231 

Soft custard 43 1 

omelet 388 

Soup, digestion of 39 

ditjestihility of 272, 412 

seasoning of 275 

Soups 271 

economical value of ,. 272 

from grains and legumes, to prc- 

P'>''^= 272 

recipes for making 27^) 

selection for material for 411 

to flavor 273 

to thicken 274 

Sour bread 130 

Sowens 93 

Spaghetti 105 

Spice and flavorings 1S5 

Spinach 252 

description of 252 

preparation and cooking of 252 

Split pea soup 2S3 

•"Sponge 127 

L-ake 347 

how to secure the best tenijiera- 

ture 127 

when sufficiently light 129 

S[ioons, kind to be used in measuring 55 

Squash, baked 2=;9 

canned 269 

mashed 258 

pie 342 

pie without eggs 343 

summer 258 

winter 2t;9 

Stains, removal of 477 

Stale bread 138 

Starch 26, 78 

action of cidd water upon 53 

action of hot water upon 53 



Steak, pan broiled 399 

Steam cooker 71, 81 

cooker for grains Si 

Steamed apples 188 

chicken 407 

custard 330 

i-Sgs 386, 431 

P'ltatoes 235 

P"i"es 545 

pufi'l'ii^' 332 

rice 99 

rice, digestion of 98 

squash 259 

sweet ]iotatocs 240 

turnips 242 

^t'^'Tiiiiig 53. 397 

different methods of 53 

vegetables 331 

Steel knives, to clean 474 

Stcrili/.ed milk 369 

for infants 443 

Stewed ai)ples 18S 

asparagus 256 

l)eans 224 

beef ... 400 

beef with vegetaliles 400 

beets 24S 

cabbage 250 

carrots 246 

caulillower 252 

^■<^lcry 253, 254 

chicken 407 

corn anil tomatoes 261 

crab apples 1S9 

fruit pudding 308 

I.ima beans 224 

mutton 402 

mutton chop 402 

parsnips 245 

pears 188 

potato 237 

squash 258 

raisins 190 

turnips 242 

Stewing 53, 396 

proper temperature for 53 



570 



INDEX. 



Sticks i6o 

St. Martin, Alexis ; experiments on 29 

Stock 410 

preparation of 413 

to clarify 414 

to cool 413 

to strain 413 

Stomach digestion 37 

Storeroom 68 

Stoves and ranges 65 

Strawberry, the 175 

charlotte 330 

minute pudding 308 

shortcake 318 

Strawberries, to can 200 

String beans canned 269 

Stirabout 102 

Stirring 55 

of grains 83 

Stuffed potatoes, 236 

Succotash ... 224 

Sugar 78 

amount of required, in canning 196 

cane 26 

crisps 348 

excess of in fruit jelly 204 

fruit 26 

grape 26 

in canned fruit 194 

measuring of 55 

milk 26 

to color 299 

Summer squash 258 

squash, preparation and cooking 

of 258 

squash, recipes for cooking .... 258 

succotash 266 

Swedish bread no 

Sweet apple custard pie 343 

pudding 308 

sauce with condensed apple juice 189 

Sweet corn , 102 

Sweet potato 238 

pie 343 

soup 283 

to dry 240 



Swiss lentil soup 284 

Swiss potato soup. 283 

Table, the 461 

appointments of 462 

arrangement of 463 

for estimating the amount of 

food required for infants . . . 446 

in kitchen 63 

linen, care of 477 

linen, colored 479 

linen, washing of 478 

manners 458 

of nutritive values of foods, 484-486 

refuse 480 

setting the 462 

the setting of over night 463 

topics . . . .44, 59, 77, 108, 162, 
216, 226, 270, 286, 295, 349, 
356, 363, 379> 388, 417, 438, 

450, 455' 47o> 480, 542, 550 

Tamarind water 435 

Tapeworm 391 

Tapioca and tig pudding 311 

cream soup 416 

custard 331 

digestion of 39 

filling 338 

jelly 3" 

pudding 331 

soup 415 

Tartaric acid 165 

Tea 358 

and coffee, adulteration of 359 

and coffee, substitutes for 359 

not a food 359 

use of, detrimental 358 

Temperature 5^ 

for bread-making 128 

Test for bad water 69 

Testimony of St. Pierre 391 

Thanksgiving menus 544 

Theine 358 

Tin closet, list of utensils for 67 

utensils 57 

Tinware, action upon by acids 57 



INDEX. 



571 



Tinware adulterated with lead 58 

Tisane 3^3 

Toast 139 

apple 290 

apricot , 290 

asparagus 290 

banana 290 

berry 291 

celery 291 

cherry 291 

cream 29 1 

for the sick 419 

grape 292 

gravy 291 

lentil 292 

peach 292 

prune 292 

preparation of 289 

recipes for 290 

snowflake 292 

tomato 293 

vegetable oyster 293 

water 435 

Tomato and macaroni soup 284 

and okra soup 284 

and rice soup 282 

cream gravy 352 

cream soup 284 

description of 260 

gluten 429 

gravy 261, 352 

])reparation and cooking of .... 260 

pudding 262 

recipes for 261 

salad 261 

soup '. 416 

soup with vermicelli 284 

toast 293 

with okra 262 

Tomatoes, baked 261 

canned 269 

scalloped 261 

stewed 262 

Tortillas 148 

Trays for invalids, suggestions fur 

preparing 4^9 



Trichince 391 

Turkey, roast 407 

suggestions for selection of .... 404 

Turnips, baked 242 

boiled 241 

chopped 242 

composition of 241 

description of 240 

digestion of 39 

scalloped 242 

in juice 242 

mashed 242 

]ireparation and cooking of 241 

recipes for cooking. 241 

steamed 242 

stewed 242 

with cream sauce 243 

Tyrotoxicon 37^ 

Ihifermented batter bread 154 

bread 148 

recipes for 156 

w ine 209 

Unleavened bread 117 

Unripe fruits 165 

Utensils for bread-making. 127 

Variety cake 34^ 

Veal 402 

comparative nutritive value of. . 392 

rules for selection of 393 

Vegetable broth 426, 428 

brush • 76 

casein 217 

casein hardened by the use of 156 

hard water 52 

hash 23S 

marrow 258 

marrow, description of 258 

oyster, description of 263 

oyster, preparation and cooking 

of 263 

oysters, recipes for cooking. . . . 264 

oyster soup 285 

oyster toast 293 

press 71 



572 



INDEX. 



Vegetable soup 2S5 

Vegetables 22S 

canning of 268 

composition of 228 

decayed 229 

dietetic value of 228 

fresh, value of 229 

keeping of 229 

left over 454 

overdone 23 1 

preparation and cooking of .... 230 

recipes for canning 268 

shredded in soups 274 

sprouted 229 

stale 229 

storing of 229 

time required for cooking 231 

to keep after cooking 232 

to select 229 

underdone 23 1 

Velvet soup 285 

Ventilation of china closet 67 

of cupboards 62 

of kitchen 61 

of pantry 67 

Ventilator 61 

Vermicelli 105 

pudding 331 

in soups 274 

soup 285, 286, 416 

Vienna bread 142 

Vitellin 381 

Waiters, general suggestions for. . . . 466 

Waiter, the handy 72 

Walnut, the 214 

Wall cabinet 73 

Warmed-over potatoes 238 

Washing the dishes 472 

Waste barrel, the 479 

Water, action of upon food elements 52 
amount of for cooking vege- 
tables 230 

boiling point at different altitudes 52 

boiling point at sea level 52 

boiling, temperature of 51 



Water bread 126, 142 

comparative value of use of hot 

and cold in cookery 52 

rice 424 

supplies 69 

supplies, tests for 69 

tamarind 422 

to increase the Ijoiling point of . . 52 

Wheat-berry flour 113 

cracked 86 

description of 85 

Wheatena 429 

Wheat, finer mill products of 88 

flour, nutritive elements of ... . Ill 

gluten 429 

meal 88 

molded 88 

oats, and barley coffee - 361 

pearled 86 

preparation and cooking of ... . 86 

recipes for cooking 87 

relative proportion of food ele- 
ments in 85 

rolled 86 

structure of 85 

with fresh fruit 87 

with raisins 87 

Whipped cream sauce 355 

Whirled eggs 386 

White celery soup 286 

custard 331, 332, 437 

of egg 432 

of egg and milk 432 

soup 416 

Whiting in flour, how to detect .... 115 

Whole'-wheat bread 138, 143 

puffs 156 

Whortleberry pudding 309, 

Whortleberries and blueberries 175 

directions for serving 181 

Window box 62 

Winter squash 259 

preparation and cooking of . . . . 259 

recipes for cooking of 259 

Wire dishcloth 474 

Wooden ware, to wash 474 



INDEX. 573 

Veast 121 Veasl, how lo promote the growth of 123 

amount required for hread inak- litjuid 140 

ing 126 raw potato 140 

bitter ,, 123 recipes for 140 

boiled potato 141 test for 124 

cells, effect of heat upon 121 the most convenient kind 122 

compressed 122 the stirring of 123 

effects of freezing upon 123 ^'ellow luncheon 468 

foam 122 

homemade 122 Zwieback 139, 289, 436, 453 

how to kee]j 122 preparation of 289 







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